2018 BEAUTY IS ART 39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE

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2018 BEAUTY IS ART 39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE
2018
BEAUTY IS ART
39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE

                 BEAUTY IS ART
                 25TH - 27TH JULY 2018
                 WELLINGTON, NEW ZEALAND

   Conference Venue:                                                     Wednesday 25th July: 8.30am - 10.30pm
                              New Zealand Society of Cosmetic Chemists
    Te Papa Museum                                                        Thursday 26th July: 9.00am - 12.00am
                                         www.nzscc.org.nz
 55 Cable St, Wellington                                                    Friday 27th July: 9.00am - 2.20pm
2018 BEAUTY IS ART 39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE
WELCOME
TO WELLINGTON, NEW ZEALAND
We are very proud of our ‘coolest little capital in the world.’ Famous for a vibrant
creative culture fuelled by great food, wine, craft beer, coffee and events,
Wellington is a cosmopolitan city with an energetic personality. Sitting near
the North Island’s southernmost point on the Cook Strait, a compact city, it
encompasses a waterfront promenade, sandy beaches, a working harbour and
colourful timber houses on surrounding hills. From Lambton Quay, the iconic red
Wellington Cable Car heads to the Wellington Botanic Gardens. Strong winds
through the Cook Strait give it the nickname “Windy Wellington.”
www.wellingtonnz.com

                  2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
2018 BEAUTY IS ART 39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE
Conference Organisers

     Maree Raffles                                  Travis Badenhorst                                     Angela Hayes
               President                                       Vice President                                      Secretary
I joined the society in 1983 when I was the        Travis is the Vice President and Webmaster       After completing my double-degree in Food
lab manager at Smith and Nephew who                of the NZSCC, NZCRS committee member             Science and Marketing at Otago University,
were manufacturing Nivea cosmetics and             and is a Scientist with Snowberry. Travis        I began my career working as a Food Care
medical products. We were in Rosebank              obtained a BPharm from the University of         Specialist in R&D at Fisher & Paykel in
Road along with Reckitt and Colman and             Otago before working as a pharmacist for a       Auckland. My husband and I then moved
We/la (Sonata Laboratories). I moved               number of years. He then completed               to Kerikeri where I worked in R&D for Living
to Croda as a sales rep and joined the             a MHSc and PhD at the University of              Nature skincare; this is where my passion
committee. I am currently the Industry             Auckland whilst working in the skincare          for cosmetic formulation began. I am
Manager for Brenntag looking after the             industry. He now has over a decade worth         currently working as a formulator for
Pharma and Cosmetic customers. Over                of experience in the field, three published      Go-To Skincare at Pharmatech in Auckland
the years I have seen many changes in our          international papers, a podium presentation      and have recently completed a Diploma
industry. When the multinational existed           at the World Congress of Dermatology, and        of Personal Care Formulation. I love being
NZ in the late 80s our local formulators              is a regular to the NZSCC conferences.        involved in the NZSCC Committee and
concentrated on making natural cosmet-                                                              feel privileged to work in such an amazing
  ics. We are leading the way in this field.                                                                  industry with great people.

  Eve Storer-Blake                                       Stacey Fraser                                   Katrina Bunge
    Communications Manager                                 Social Media Officer                                    Treasurer
Eve is a qualified Naturopath and Medical          After a stellar career creating award winning    Katrina is Treasurer of NZSCC and Business
Herbalist graduating with a Bachelor of            Natural Skincare products for one of New         Manager at Alchemy Agencies. Katrina
Health Science in Complementary Medicine           Zealand's leading Natural Skin care brands       has a BSc degree from Auckland
in 2003. She is a sought after lecturer and        Trilogy, Stacey has taken her passion for        University, and originally started her career
presenter and joined the Nutrition faculty         all things “beauty” and conceived Nature's       as an Industrial Chemist at Peterson
at Wellpark College of Natural Therapies           Blueprint to share her knowledge and             Chemicals in 1995. She then moved onto
where she lectured in Clinical Nutrition           expertise and bring a new innovative variety     at Bayer in 1996 as Sales Representative
from 2008-2013. She previously held a              of skincare to the industry and consumer.        where she stayed through to 2015 as
technical training role for Vitaco, one of         Nature's Blueprint showcases on trend,           General Manager Bayer MaterialScience
New Zealand’s largest dietary supple-              high quality, socially acceptable, traditional   at which time the business transferred
ment manufacturers, prior to joining               and leading-edge products to the world.          to Alchemy. Katrina believes that the
Bronson & Jacobs in 2014 as Key Account            Over 20 years industry experience from           personal care market in New Zealand
Manager for the Nutrition and Personal             customer service, sales, marketing,              has stamped out an extraordinary footprint,
Care markets. She has a lifelong passion           communications, operations, logistics,           with its focus on naturals and niche
for phytomedicine and natural cosmet-              packaging,        concept       development,     manufacturing combined with its ability
ics, making her own skin and hair care             product development, manufacturing,              to constantly innovate via the infamous
     products since she was a teenager.                    compliance and regulations.                          Kiwi-can-do-attitude.

                                           2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
2018 BEAUTY IS ART 39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE
Conference Organisers

                                 Sara Ching                                                    Archana Kumari
                                 Committee Member                                                     Committee Member
           My first introduction to Pharmacognosy (plant medicine)                 Archana is currently working at Shieling Laboratories Limited
           was in my late teens, when it wasn't common place to                    as Formulation Chemist. Having completed her Chemistry
           see natural skincare on supermarket shelves. I trained                  Degree, she started as a graduate, learning from some
           as a beauty therapist in the 1990's and then began to fur-              of the best in this Industry. She has also studied
           ther my research and education into natural and traditional             Regulatory Essentials from /PS (Institute of Personal
           skincare formulating. I love helping customers create custom            Care Science). She is passionate about her work and
           products and build their brands by formulating with their               loves the ever changing dynamic of this industry. Outside
           budget in mind but also products that fit their market.                 work, she likes to go tramping with her friends and enjoys
           I currently for at Alaron Products as Liquids and Creams                                being creative in the kitchen.
           Manager. I enjoy the challenge of working for a contract
           manufacturer with the variety of customers and capabilities.
           Outside of work I'm a Mum and enjoy being on our farm and
                                 riding my horses.

  ENJOY SUCCESSFUL
  PARTNERSHIPS
                                                                  Dedicated Team, Innovative Solutions        Benefit from our comprehensive
                                                                  Brenntag has built its reputation on        natural ingredients product range:
                                                                  partnering with the best ingredients        ■ Bio-functional Actives
                                                                  manufacturers and delivering the            ■ Botanical Extracts
                                                                  highest quality products to its             ■ Conditioning Agents
  Brenntag Australia Pty. Ltd.
                                                                  customers.                                  ■ Emollients
  262 Highett Road, Highett                                                                                   ■ Emulsifiers
  Victoria, Australia                                             Working with Brenntag means not only        ■ Rheology Modifiers
  Phone: +61 3 9559 8333                                          accessing our wide-ranging product          ■ Scrubs
  info-aus@brenntag-asia.com                                      expertise, but also our extensive           ■ Sunscreen Actives
                                                                  market and formulations know-how.           ■ Surfactants
  Brenntag New Zealand Limited                                                                                ■ Vitamins
  75 France Street, Eden Terrace
                                                                  Discover our Cosmetics portfolio:
  Auckland 1010, New Zealand
                                                                  ■ Advanced ingredients
  Phone: +64 9 275 0745
  info-nz@brenntag-asia.com                                       ■ Inspiring concepts
                                                                  ■ Innovative textures
                                                                  ■ Modern applications
  www.brenntag-asia.com

13691_BAP_AUS_NZ_Ad_PersonalCare_187x137mm_En-WomanLeaf.indd 1                                                                                 09.03.18 08:48
2018 BEAUTY IS ART 39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE
President's Welcome

Tena KouTou Katoa

On behalf of the New Society of Cosmetic Chemist committee we warmly
welcome you to our 39th annual Conference Beauty is Art held at Te Papa our
National Museum. Welcome to our members. Life members, our speakers and
our overseas visitors.

We have a full programme of 24 speakers. Including a local brand owner from
Tailor Skincare and a local blogger Victoria Faith presenting their personal
journey in the NZ Cosmetic scene. We encourage more members to come
forward and share their stories.

API Consumer Brands are our Diamond sponsors. It is the first time a
contact manufacturer has taken this opportunity. Thank you to all our
sponsors for supporting the Society so we can make this event fabulous.
Our industry is unique and the networking opportunities happen during the
break time. A quarter of you are attending our conference for the first time
so please reach out to our new members. 16 people have travelled here from
overseas and we have a an even split of brand owners and formulators with
Ingredient suppliers.

Make sure you visit the Innovation Zone to see the new products launched this
year and new ingredients for your new formulations.

We would like to thank our sponsors who have helped make this event very
special. You have all received a goodie bag which is overflowing with products
generously donated Brand Owners and Suppliers

Our welcome event will be held at an icon Kiwi creative HUB. We will have hands
on fun with Cosmetics. Tomorrow’s team building event is another great time to
meet some new people. We have the Red Carpet ready for your grand entrance
at the Gala dinner. Rest assured many hours of preparation have gone into
creating some fabulous outfits. Make sure you are dressed for the occasion and
dancing to midnight.

Your committee have created a spectacular event. I would like to acknowledge
their dedication and care to bring this event together.

Have fun, learn lots, and enjoy making new connections through Cosmetic
Chemistry.

Maree Raffles
President NZSCC

                  2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
2018 BEAUTY IS ART 39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE
2018
                                                                            SPEAKERS

     DAY 1

01   Bree Webster - IXOM - Bronson & Jacobs
     Mood Paint. When painting inspires your emotion.

02   Paul Buckingham - Ceechem
     Vital Water; addressing Global Resource concerns with novel technologies that exemplify sustainability and

03   Malie Zauber - Carst and Walker
     Athleis’ure Beauty

04   Paula Chavez - Aromatic Ingredients
     Art of Perfumery

05   Belinda Carli - Personal Care Science (Workshop)
     Formulating with Natural Surfactants

                          2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
2018 BEAUTY IS ART 39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE
2018
                                                                       SPEAKERS

     DAY 2

06   Stacey Fraser - Nature’s Blueprint
     How art can inspire ‘All Things Beauty’             14   Robyn Vickery and Mick Riley - BioGro
                                                              Organic Health & Body Care Uncovered

07   Robert McPherson - Lubrizol
     Skin Adaptive Response to Photoaging                15   Gina Dela Cruz - IMCD
                                                              The Artful Beauty of Glass Skin

08   Val Bellio - Dow
     Ethocel Oil Thickeners & Film Formers               16   Peter Lehrke - Pharmatech
                                                              How Nature Inspires Creativity

     John Staton - Eurofins
09   Changes to ISO 24444 Sunscreen Test.
     Why & When?
                                                         17   Kevin Roden - Thor
                                                              A Confusing Presentation on Preservative Efficacy Testing

10   Maree Raffles - Brenntag
     Protection into the Blue                            18   Armelle Sebbag - Avenir
                                                              Epigenetics: The New Paradigm in Cosmetic Science

11   Matthew Martens - Croda
     Poretect - The Green Architect for an Empowered Skin

12   Sara Quilter - Sara Tailor Skincare
     From the cake mixer to contract manufacturing -
     how to scale a garage project using social media.

13   Victoria Lomaloma - Blogger
     The Power of a Like

                        2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
2018 BEAUTY IS ART 39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE
2018
                                                                              SPEAKERS

     DAY 3

19   Rahau Shirazi - Callaghan
     Smart Bioactive Delivery Systems for Cosmeceuticals

20   Joseph Chan - Stepan Company
     Beauty is Art (A perspective in the use of surfactants to exemplify beauty)

21   Patrycja Pytel - Verital
     The Art of Never Ending Curiosity - exciting findings from In-Cosmetics Global Amsterdam 2018

22   Helen Costanza and Michele Dalli - BASF
     Be Authentic with BASF Care Creations

23   Daniela Lima - Connell Bros
     The New Greenery

24   Dr Ted Kim - Clariant
     Eosidin - The immuno-modulator for indoor pollution control

                        2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
2018 BEAUTY IS ART 39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE
Bree Webster
                                                   MOOD PAINT - WHEN PAINTING INSPIRES YOUR EMOTIONS

                                                                                                                        ABSTRACT
                                                    BREE WEBSTER
Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact

                                                                                                                       Author:
                                                    IXOM - Bronson and Jacobs, Category Manager
                                                                                                                       Ms Nathalie Chevrot, Market Manager
                                                    for Health, Personal Care and Household
                                                                                                                       SEPPIC SA, 22, Terrasse Bellini, Paris La Défense –
                                                                                                                       92800 Puteaux

                                                   BIO                                                                 Presenter:
                                                                                                                       Ms Bree Webster, IXOM Operations Pty Ltd
                                                   Bree graduated with a Bachelor of BioMedical                        Level 9, 1 Nicholson St, East Melbourne
                                                   Science in 2001.                                                    Victoria 3002, Australia

                                                                                                                       Mood Paint - When Painting Inspires Your Emotions
                                                   Bree’s career started in the Pharmaceutical industry
                                                                                                                       SEPPIC innovates by inspiring its customers through
                                                   launching new prescription medicine to Specialists                  its “Mood Paint” texture bar and invites you to
                                                   in Melbourne. Followed by the promotion and sale of                 rediscover its palette of ingredients to create new
                                                   the cosmetics laser equipment within the plastic and                masterpieces. Discover new emotion-stimulating
                                                                                                                       formulas that SEPPIC beauty care laboratories
                                                   cosmetics surgeons industry. Since joining Bronson                  designed and inspired by various art (painting)
                                                   & Jacobs (IXOM) 11 years ago, Bree has continued                    movements (Street Art, Pop Art, Surrealism, Naïve
                                                                                                                       Art, Renaissance Art) and Cosmetic Trends.
                                                   her education completing a Certificate in Advanced
                                                   Cosmetic Science with the Institute of Personal Care                Street art (1970’s), contemporary urban art, is one
                                                                                                                       of the most popular trends around the world.
                                                   Science in 2015. She has a career long passion in
                                                                                                                       The Perfect body illusion spray revisits this optical
                                                   working within the cosmetics and health industry.                   illusion-like artistic trend with its foundation
                                                                                                                       application that makes legs look more slender.

                                                                                                                       Pop Art (1950) reflects the spirit of a period of serial
                                                                                                                       production, the role of the consumer society.
                                                                                                                       Colours are bright and off-beat compared to reality.
                                                                                                                       This inspired the SEPPIC laboratories to develop
                                                                                                                       five multimasking trend formulas.
                                                                                                                       The five masks share the same chassis but with
                                                                                                                       different colours, actives and textures.
                                                                                                                       SEPPIC is also revisiting Surrealism (1920),
                                                                                                                       Naïve Art (1850) and Italian Renaissance (1420) to
                                                                                                                       create equally interesting formulations.

                                                                                2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
2018 BEAUTY IS ART 39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE
Paul Buckingham
                                                   VITAL WATER; GLOBAL RESOURCE CONCERNS WITH NOVEL
                                                   TECHNOLOGIES THAT EXEMPLIFY SUSTAINABILITY AND INNOVATION

                                                                                                                             ABSTRACT
Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact

                                                       PAUL BUCKINGHAM                                                      Author: Quinn Ryder
                                                       CEO of Ceechem Australia                                             Sponsor: Active Concepts, LLC
                                                                                                                            Address: 107 Technology Drive
                                                                                                                            Lincolnton NC, 28092

                                                   BIO                                                                      Contact: +81-090-9296-2490
                                                                                                                            E: qryder@activeconceptsllc.com
                                                   Paul Buckingham is the CEO of Ceechem Australia
                                                                                                                            Vital Water; addressing global resource
                                                   and excited to announce the opening of Ceechem                           concerns with novel technologies that
                                                   New Zealand in August of 2017.                                           exemplify sustainability and innovation

                                                   Paul is a passionate, energetic, sales and marketing                     Clean water is the most precious
                                                   professional possessing a can-do attitude with a                         commodity on Earth. It sustains all
                                                                                                                            life. As we enter an era of global
                                                   broad array of skills and experiences that span a
                                                                                                                            consciousness the preciousness of
                                                   diverse array of industries.                                             water becomes more apparent. In
                                                                                                                            personal care vast quantities of water
                                                   Complementing his extensive work experience,                             are used during the production of raw
                                                   Paul holds the following academic qualifications:                        materials, in finished cosmetic products
                                                                                                                            and also by the consumer in their home.
                                                   •    Master of Entrepreneurship and Innovation
                                                                                                                            By turning to efficacious anhydrous
                                                   •    Post Graduate Certificate in Marketing
                                                                                                                            actives and formulas, which are currently
                                                   •    Living by the Life mantle of “Give till it hurts                    limited in their offering to more simple
                                                        and then give some more“ there is always a                          emollients, we can focus on innovative
                                                        solution at hand.                                                   and sustainable technologies for
                                                                                                                            anti-ageing claims in personal care
                                                                                                                            while helping to reduce the amount of
                                                                                                                            vital water consumed.

                                                                                     2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Malie Zauber
                                                   ATHLEIS’URE BEAUTY

                                                                                                                         ABSTRACT
Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact

                                                    MALIE ZAUBER                                                        Athleis’ure Beauty
                                                    Carst and Walker
                                                                                                                        Active beauty is a growing trend. While

                                                   BIO                                                                  exercising to keep your body healthy, you
                                                                                                                        should not forget to keep your face is a
                                                   Malie Zauber obtained her Microbiology (Hons)                        good shape! In this presentation, we will
                                                   degree from the University of Stellenbosch,                          see what are the biological effects of
                                                   South Africa and has been involved in the                            sport in the skin and the current solutions
                                                   cosmetics industry since 1998. She initially joined                  available on the market. Finally, we will
                                                   the industry as a Quality Control Manager, but real-                 discover Gattefossé range to MOVE while
                                                   ised her passion was on the innovation side.                         protecting your skin!
                                                   “I always felt I want to create products and the R&D
                                                   lab was the perfect home”.

                                                   Between 1999 and 2010 Malie headed up the R&D
                                                   side of various brands in South Africa and
                                                   Australia: Yardley, Coty, Maybeline, Innoxa. In 2010
                                                   Malie decided to make a career change to the ‘dark
                                                   side’ and joined the raw materials distribution
                                                   business (Rejuvacare, Sydney) in a Technical
                                                   Marketing & Development role and later moved into
                                                   a sales role.

                                                   In 2014 Malie joined Carst & Walker as Industry
                                                   Group Manager to develop the Personal Care/Vet/
                                                   Pharma business in Oceania.

                                                                                 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Paula Chavez
                                                   ART OF PERFUMERY

                                                                                                                        ABSTRACT
Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact

                                                     PAULA CHAVEZ                                                       Art of Perfumery
                                                     Aromatic Ingredients
                                                                                                                        • Understanding the levels of fragrance
                                                                                                                          - Synthetic

                                                   BIO                                                                    - Natural
                                                                                                                          - EO Blends
                                                   Paula joined Aromatic ingredients in 2017 after                        - How these levels are made up
                                                                                                                          - Creativity for Perfumer
                                                   AI Director Erika, saw a need for someone with
                                                                                                                          - Understanding what fragrance is relevant to
                                                   Fragrance and Product Development experience                             your project
                                                   to join the team. For the past 15 months Paula
                                                   has worked strongly in increasing the Fragrance                      • What you find in a Fragrance Pyramid
                                                   awareness for Aromatic Ingredients and working                         - How a fragrance Pyramid can assist for
                                                   with new clients to develop their new brands. In the                     Marketing Inspiration
                                                   Personal Care industry for the last 27 years in                        - Fragrance Notes and what they mean
                                                                                                                          - How long do the notes last
                                                   National Sales and Education roles, Paula uses
                                                   all her experience in working in retail and wholesale                • Olfactive Directions
                                                   companies to offer her clients the most updated                        - Discover what direction to take your
                                                   information on projects she works on with them.                          project on
                                                   As a trained Beauty Therapist, education is very                       - Understanding the Fragrance Families
                                                                                                                          - Sniff a thon
                                                   important to her and she is happy to share her
                                                   knowledge in all areas of the Beauty World.
                                                                                                                        • Dosages
                                                                                                                          - Understand what % levels you can use
                                                                                                                            in your application
                                                                                                                          - Why is it different for assorted applications
                                                                                                                          - Why is it important to stick to recommended
                                                                                                                            dosage %

                                                                                 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Belinda Carli
                                                   FORMULATING WITH NATURAL SURFACTANTS

                                                                                                                         ABSTRACT
                                                     BELINDA CARLI
Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact

                                                                                                                        Formulating with Natural Surfactants
                                                     Institute of Personal Care Science, Director
                                                     B Nat Therapies; Dip Cos Sci                                       Using natural surfactants poses several
                                                                                                                        formulation problems: they don’t thicken

                                                   BIO                                                                  easily, foaming and cleansing can be an
                                                                                                                        issue and making them perform like
                                                   Belinda is the Director of the Institute of Personal                 synthetic versions at similar costs all
                                                   Care Science (www.personalcarescience.com.au),                       add to the challenge! Until now…
                                                   an International Training Organisation providing
                                                   Certificate and Diplomas via distance education in the               Join Belinda in this demonstrative
                                                   formulation, development, brand management and                       workshop to find out how to:
                                                   regulatory affairs for personal care and cosmetics.
                                                                                                                        •   Select natural surfactant
                                                   She is a regular presenter at major International                        combinations to yield best results
                                                   events and her work can be found in many national
                                                                                                                        •   Work with high performing natural
                                                   and International publications and Special Chem
                                                                                                                            surfactants
                                                   formulators site. She is the Official Technical Advisor
                                                   to the in-cosmetics Group internationally; and has                   •   Use formulating tips & tricks to create
                                                   written 5 books on Beginners and Advanced                                thick, luxurious foaming gels
                                                   Cosmetic Formulation, Organic and Colour Cosmetic
                                                   Formulation and Brand Management.                                    •   Create natural surfactant
                                                                                                                            formulations without compromising
                                                   She has a Bachelor of Natural Therapies, a Diploma                       performance
                                                   of Cosmetic Science and Certificate IV in Training
                                                   and Assessment. She is a member of the Australian                    •   Work within restrictive budgets
                                                   Society of Cosmetic Chemists (ASCC). She was the
                                                   winner of the 2013 Annual Industry Award from CHC                    Watch Belinda create several beautiful,
                                                   Australia for her contribution to research and training              natural surfactant products on the day
                                                   and was a finalist in the Australian 2010 Telstra                    to put this all into practice PLUS get
                                                   Business Women’s Awards in 3 categories.                             a FREE natural surfactant formulation
                                                                                                                        guide booklet by attending.

                                                                                 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Stacey Fraser
                                                   HOW ART CAN INSPIRE ‘ALL THINGS BEAUTY’

                                                                                                                             ABSTRACT
Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact

                                                     STACEY FRASER                                                          Address:
                                                     Nature’s Blueprint Ltd, Director                                       7 Olliver Grove, Waikanae Beach
                                                                                                                            Kapiti Coast, Wellington 5036

                                                   BIO                                                                      Contact:
                                                                                                                            M: +64 (0)21 2055 353
                                                   After a stellar career creating award winning Natural                    E: naturesblueprintltd@gmail.com
                                                   Skincare products for one of New Zealand’s leading Natural               www.naturesblueprint.co.nz
                                                   skincare brands Trilogy, Stacey has taken her passion for all
                                                   things “beauty” and conceived Nature’s Blueprint to share
                                                   her knowledge and expertise and bring a new innovative                   How Art can Inspire “All Things Beauty”
                                                   variety of skincare to the industry and consumer.
                                                                                                                            This presentation will be based around
                                                   Nature’s Blueprint showcases on trend, high quality, socially            all aspects of the Beauty Industry
                                                   acceptable, traditional and leading-edge products to the                 showcasing how Art has and can inspire
                                                   world. Innovation and marketing is the key to developing                 the beauty industry. How we could
                                                   the next 'great iconic product.'
                                                                                                                            include this in our next product
                                                   Over 20 years industry experience from customer service,                 development or marketing campaigns.
                                                   sales, marketing, communications, operations, logistics,
                                                   packaging, concept development, product development,                     We will walk through areas of
                                                   manufacturing, compliance and regulations.                               formulations, finished products,
                                                                                                                            packaging, marketing, promotions, trends
                                                                                                                            and accessories to provide “ideas” you
                                                                                                                            can takeaway.

                                                                                                                            The presentation will include some new
                                                                                                                            innovative art inspired beauty products to
                                                                                                                            review.

                                                                                     2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Robert McPherson
                                                   SKIN ADAPTIVE RESPONSE TO PHOTOAGING

                                                                                                                           ABSTRACT
Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact

                                                     ROBERT MCPHERSON                                                      Skin Adaptive Response to Photoaging

                                                     Lubrizol                                                              Photoaging is a multifactorial process produced after
                                                                                                                           sun exposure. Ultraviolet radiation leads to the
                                                                                                                           production of reactive oxygen species and activation

                                                   BIO                                                                     of intracellular signaling pathways that result in an
                                                                                                                           increase in inflammatory mediators. These mediators
                                                                                                                           interfere with synthesis of dermal collagens and trigger
                                                   Robert McPherson has been in the Cosmetics and                          synthesis of enzymes that degrade the extracellular
                                                   Pharmaceutical industry for over 10 years. Robert                       matrix, promoting skin aging through wrinkle formation
                                                                                                                           and loss of tissue elasticity.
                                                   obtained a Degree in Chemistry from The University
                                                   of Strathclyde (Scotland). After 4 years of working at                  The biological effects of visible light (400-700 nm) are
                                                   the Mentholatum Company in the UK as a Research and                     not well-characterized, nevertheless, several studies
                                                                                                                           suggest that blue light (400-500 nm) is not innocuous.
                                                   Quality Development Chemist Robert Immigrated to
                                                   Australia where he had short spells working in various                  The ability of a cell, tissue, or organism to better resist
                                                                                                                           stress damage by prior exposure to a lesser amount
                                                   labs, which includes Reckitt Benckiers in Sydney. Robert                of stress is known as adaptive response. Exposure to
                                                   then join a personal care ingredient distribution company               ultraviolet irradiation results in a number of responses
                                                   in Australia as their Technical account manager before                  in irradiated skin which may be considered
                                                                                                                           adaptive, that is, they are likely to provide some
                                                   joining Lubrizol in 2015 to look after the Lipotec actives              protection against further UV damage.
                                                   range in Australian and New Zealand.
                                                                                                                           Our goal is to develop a cosmetic ingredient able to
                                                                                                                           induce the skin adaptive response through skin
                                                   Robert is now Lubrizol’s Sales Manager for Australia and                photoreceptors opsins to prevent photoaging induced
                                                                                                                           by solar radiation and blue light. Our ingredient is able
                                                   New Zealand and tasked with the growth of the entire
                                                                                                                           to protect skin from solar and blue light acting at three
                                                   Lubrizol skin care, personal, home and health care                      main points: physical barrier, antioxidant barrier and
                                                   portfolio. Robert is an active member of the personal                   DNA protection.
                                                   industry in Australia and is the currently a member of the              To achieve this objective, we have focused on
                                                   ASCC NSW chapter committee, Vice Chair of the 2019                      extremophile microorganisms that are able to colonize
                                                                                                                           extreme environments. Among extremophiles, radio
                                                   Conference organizing committee and current President                   resistant microorganisms can survive in high levels of
                                                   of the ASCC.                                                            radiation producing metabolic products and enzymes,
                                                                                                                           optimized to help them to survive under high-radiation
                                                                                                                           conditions.

                                                                                    2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Val Bellio
                                                   ETHOCEL OIL THICKENERS AND FILM FORMERS

                                                                                                                        ABSTRACT
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                                                     VAL BELLIO                                                         Ethocel Oil Thickeners and Film Formers
                                                     DOW                                                                The presentation will be an overview of
                                                                                                                        Dow’s range of oil thickeners and film

                                                   BIO                                                                  formers for personal care applications,
                                                                                                                        how they function as film formers and
                                                   Valentina Bellio graduated from Melbourne                            how they offer tailored and transparent
                                                                                                                        thickening whilst exhibiting broad oil
                                                   University with a BSc majoring in Organic Chemistry.
                                                                                                                        compatibility.
                                                   She initially worked as a development chemist with
                                                   Hoechst Surfactants for 5 years assisting with the
                                                   development of products for various markets
                                                   including Metalworking, HI&I and Personal Care.
                                                   She then moved into a sales role, firstly with Rhone
                                                   Poulenc (later known as Rhodia and now Solvay) and
                                                   subsequently with Croda Surfactants for the majority
                                                   of her career. Whilst with Croda, she specialized in
                                                   the Personal Care and Health Care markets.

                                                   In 2010, she transferred to Singapore and took on an
                                                   Asia Pac regional role with Croda Singapore looking
                                                   after their Health Care market for 3 years. Valentina’s
                                                   current role is Business Development Specialist for
                                                   Dow with responsibility for the Coatings and Personal
                                                   Care markets in ANZ.

                                                                                 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
John Staton
                                                   CHANGES TO ISO 24444 SUNSCREEN TEST. WHY & WHEN?

                                                                                                                          ABSTRACT
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                                                     JOHN STATON                                                          Changes To ISO 24444 Sunscreen Test.
                                                                                                                          Why & When?
                                                     Eurofins Dermatest Pty Ltd, Australia
                                                                                                                          The process of finalisation of the

                                                   BIO                                                                    ISO 24444 SPF test method for sunscreens
                                                                                                                          was completed in 2010 and was adopted
                                                   John comes from a background of over 50 years                          into Australian Standard AS/NZS 2604
                                                   experience in the pharmaceutical and health care                       in 2012. ISO procedures require that a
                                                   industries.                                                            Standard be reviewed after 5 years in order
                                                   John is a founding Director of two consultancy companies -             to confirm utilisation and validity. Such
                                                   Technical Consultancy Services, who provide new product                was the process initiated for the sunscreen
                                                   development and Dermatest recently acquired by the                     standard early in 2016. This process is
                                                   Eurofins group and now trading as Eurofins Dermatest                   incomplete but is sufficiently advanced
                                                   Pty Ltd.
                                                                                                                          for prediction of agreed changes to be
                                                   The labs are recognised by Standards Australia for the                 presented. The modifications to the test
                                                   conduct of sunscreen testing. Dermatest has been                       methodology represent improvement in the
                                                   conducting SPF testing and skin efficacy and safety
                                                   evaluation studies continuously since 1997.                            state of the art.

                                                   He is currently Australian Head Delegate representative                As will be seen from the supporting
                                                   to the ISO Committee on Sunscreen Testing under ISO
                                                   Technical Committee 217 – Cosmetics and Chair of the                   justifications which will be presented, each
                                                   ISO Working Groups on Water Resistance                                 is based on sound grounds with the overall
                                                                                                                          objective of reducing inter-laboratory
                                                   He spent over 15 years with Soul Pattinson Laboratories,
                                                   the manufacturing arm of the large retail, wholesale and               variability in the conduct of this test
                                                   pharmaceutical manufacturing group, playing various                    methodology.
                                                   technical roles. He was also Operations Manager of
                                                   Cenovis, now a division of Mayne, for 7 years. John left
                                                   his final position as General Manager of Soul Pattinson
                                                   Laboratories to become a consultant to industry where
                                                   he has spent the last 16 years.
                                                   John is a Past President and Life Member of Australian
                                                   Society of Cosmetic Chemists. He serves on a number
                                                   of industry representative roles with ASMI, ACCORD and
                                                   Standards Australia.

                                                                                   2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Maree Raffles
                                                   BEL-EVEN® FROM DSM. FUTURE PROOF YOUR SKIN FROM
                                                   THE EFFECTS OF DAILY STRESS

                                                                                                                      ABSTRACT
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                                                    MAREE RAFFLES                                                     Bel-Even® from DSM. Future proof your skin
                                                    Brenntag                                                          from the effects of daily stress

                                                                                                                      Whether stemming from job-related

                                                   BIO                                                                issues, relationship conflicts, or simply
                                                                                                                      facing a 24/7 lifestyle, stress has become
                                                   I joined society in 1983 when I was the lab manager                a constant part of our daily lives. The human
                                                   at Smith and Nephew who were manufacturing                         skin naturally responds to periods of stress
                                                                                                                      with the formation of more cortisol through
                                                   Nivea cosmetics and medical products. We were in
                                                                                                                      a particular enzyme; 11β-HSD1. This release
                                                   Rosebank Road along with Reckitt and Colman and                    of cortisol, the so-called stress hormone, is a
                                                   We/la (Sonata Laboratories). I moved to Croda as a                 normal and healthy adaptation reflex. However,
                                                   sales rep and joined the committee. I am currently                 cortisol can turn into an enemy of the skin if it
                                                   the Industry Manager for Brenntag looking after the                remains in excess over a long period of time.
                                                                                                                      Beyond practicing stress-coping techniques,
                                                   Pharma and Cosmetic customers. Over the years
                                                                                                                      there is a high consumer interest for cosmetic
                                                   I have seen many changes in our industry. When the                 treatments that work to both help the skin deal
                                                   multinational existed NZ in the late 80s our local                 with stress and reverse any negative effects
                                                   formulators concentrated on making natural                         such as skin thinning, loss of elasticity and
                                                   cosmetics. We are leading the way in this field.                   barrier weakening in general.

                                                                                                                      With BEL-EVEN®, DSM has designed and
                                                                                                                      patented a new cosmetic ingredient that
                                                                                                                      inhibits in vitro 11β-HSD1. BEL-EVEN®, was
                                                                                                                      specifically developed for skin care
                                                                                                                      applications by using a rational design
                                                                                                                      approach. It locally rebalances the negative,
                                                                                                                      long-term effects of stress on skin and visibly
                                                                                                                      reduces signs of a stressful lifestyle.

                                                                               2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Matthew Martens
                                                   PORETECT - THE GREEN ARCHITECT FOR AN EMPOWERED SKIN

                                                                                                                           ABSTRACT
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                                                     MATTHEW MARTENS                                                       Poretect - The Green Architect for an
                                                     Croda                                                                 Empowered Skin

                                                                                                                           Open pores are not only a characteristic

                                                   BIO                                                                     of young and oily skin. They can also be a
                                                                                                                           sign of ageing, in particular when entering
                                                   Matthew obtained his Bachelor of Science (Technology)                   menopause. Upon ageing, skin supporting
                                                   from the University of Waikato, NZ in 2002 majoring in                  structures mainly composed of collagen
                                                   Chemistry and Finance. After moving to Australia in 2003                and elastin become less dense and
                                                   he started in the industry as a Development Chemist at                  efficient, with their production and release
                                                   Ross Cosmetics in Melbourne formulating a number of                     in the dermal matrix are reduced. This
                                                   Personal Care products including sunscreens, oral care                  weakening affects the pore shape which
                                                   products, colour cosmetics and skin care products.                      is then prone to sagging, and results into
                                                   Matthew joined Croda in 2009 as Technical Sales
                                                                                                                           unsightly conspicuous pores that affect the
                                                   Executive before being promoted to Industry Sales
                                                                                                                           regularity of the skin texture.
                                                   Manager in 2012 responsible for Croda’s Personal Care
                                                   product portfolio in Australia in New Zealand.
                                                                                                                           Poretect as a superseed combination
                                                   In 2016 in conjunction with Croda’s increased focus on                  offers a new approach to fight sign of
                                                   Sustainability Matthew was given the additional                         ageing and promotes an empowered skin,
                                                   responsibility of Sustainability Champion within the                    a refined and blurred skin texture with less
                                                   Personal Care business for Asia Pacific. The main goal of               visible pores and a re-plumped skin.
                                                   this role being to liaise with local teams within the region
                                                   to help promote Croda’s Sustainability initiatives from a
                                                   Product perspective throughout Asia and connect with
                                                   key customers in the region.

                                                   As an active member of the Personal Care Industry in
                                                   Australia Matthew has been on the ASCC Council since
                                                   2010 with the role of President from 2015 - 2017.

                                                                                    2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Sara Quilter
                                                   FROM THE CAKE MIXER TO CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
                                                   - HOW TO SCALE A GARAGE PROJECT USING SOCIAL MEDIA

                                                                                                                        ABSTRACT
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                                                     SARA QUILTER                                                       From the cake mixer to contract
                                                     Sara Tailor Skincare                                               manufacturing - how to scale a garage
                                                                                                                        project using social media

                                                   BIO                                                                  Join Sara as she shares her experience
                                                                                                                        growing a garage project business using
                                                   Sara is the doer of the things and thinker of the                    social media. If online and social media
                                                   thoughts at Tailor Skincare. She’s an unofficial                     marketing is a mystery to you then this is
                                                                                                                        a seminar you won't want to miss.
                                                   psychologist, proud dog mum to Loui the mini
                                                   Schnauzer, avid tea drinker, aspiring yogini, self
                                                   confessed brunch addict and someone who’s mildly
                                                   inappropriate after wine. After beginning production
                                                   of Tailor Skincare with a cake mixer and minimum
                                                   wage salary, Sara has turned this hand made
                                                   garage project into a full scalable entity with the use
                                                   of social media and contract manufacturing to meet
                                                   demand. Recently she has pushed Tailor Skincare
                                                   into NZ retail, ranging across Farmers and selected
                                                   Life Pharmacy retail outlets. Going forward Sara has
                                                   the intention of continuing growth by exploring
                                                   offshore opportunity for Tailor and continuing to
                                                   innovate in the natural skincare market.

                                                                                 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Victoria Lomaloma
                                                   THE POWER OF A LIKE

                                                                                                                       ABSTRACT
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                                                    VICTORIA LOMALOMA                                                  The Power of a Like
                                                    www.victoriafaith.co.nz
                                                                                                                       In today's social media climate, content
                                                                                                                       creators can have more influence over

                                                   BIO                                                                 audiences than traditional advertising,
                                                                                                                       which has a forced the cosmetic industry
                                                   Victoria Lomaloma aka 'Victoria Faith' grew up in                   to adapt. Victoria relays her experience
                                                   Wellington and attended Massey University where                     with social media in the beauty scene
                                                                                                                       as an influencer from authenticity,
                                                   she received a Bachelor of Visual Communication
                                                                                                                       collaborations, engagement and the
                                                   Design in Illustration with Honours. She has a                      industry moving forward.
                                                   passion for design and illustration, and loves the
                                                   synergy created between them. Victoria's love for
                                                   make up and application came naturally. To her,
                                                   it is just another form of creativity.

                                                   Victoria began her beauty and lifestyle channels
                                                   in 2014 and thoroughly enjoys creating beautiful
                                                   content to share with her viewers. Victoria special-
                                                   ises in design, illustration and makeup and has a
                                                   social media following of 30,000+ across her social
                                                   media channels.

                                                                                2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Robyn Vickery and Mike Riley
                                                   ORGANIC HEALTH AND BODY CARE UNCOVERED

                                                                                                                        ABSTRACT
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                                                     ROBYN VICKERY AND MICK RILEY                                       Organic Health and Body Care Uncovered
                                                     BioGro
                                                                                                                        The global organic market is on the rise,
                                                                                                                        and New Zealand producers are increasingly

                                                   BIO                                                                  jumping on the bandwagon as they realise
                                                                                                                        the opportunities available to them. BioGro,
                                                   Mick Riley has been a Certification Officer at BioGro                New Zealand’s leading organic certifier are
                                                   since early 2016, specialising as New Zealand’s only                 here to give you an overview of the sector,
                                                                                                                        consumer trends and what it takes to meet
                                                   Programme Manager for Organic Health and Body
                                                                                                                        the organic standards.
                                                   Care. With a postgraduate degree in Pharmacology,
                                                   Mick took the route into organics with his enthusiasm
                                                   for sustainability and animal welfare.

                                                   Robyn Vickery is the Marketing and Communications
                                                   Manager at BioGro NZ. Robyn has been
                                                   championing the organic sector and its products for
                                                   over two years, with the belief that a voice is needed
                                                   to increase awareness and understanding at both a
                                                   producer and consumer level.

                                                                                 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Gina Dela Cruz
                                                   THE ARTFUL BEAUTY OF GLASS SKIN

                                                                                                                      ABSTRACT
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                                                    GINA DELA CRUZ                                                    Address:
                                                    IMCD New Zealand Ltd
                                                                                                                      IMCD New Zealand, Ground Floor
                                                                                                                      459 Great South Rd, Penrose

                                                   BIO                                                                Auckland 1061
                                                                                                                      PO Box 27 056 Mt Roskill, Auckland 1440
                                                   Gina holds a Bachelor of Science in Chemical                       New Zealand
                                                   Engineering degree. She has an extensive experience                Contact:
                                                   in varying capacities in the pharmaceutical and                    DDI: +64 9 582 0308 P: +64 9 582 0250
                                                   personal care industries. Over the years she has                   F: +64 9 525 0030 M: +64 (0)274 717908
                                                                                                                      E: gdelacruz@imcd.co.nz
                                                   handled different roles in a manufacturing
                                                   environment ranging from formulation chemist,                      The Artful Beauty of Glass Skin
                                                   validation engineer, QA manager and operations                     In the world of visual culture today looking
                                                   manager. She is currently an account and business                  good at all times has become mandatory
                                                   manager for the personal care division at IMCD                     among consumers. With social media,
                                                                                                                      “selfies,” and smartphone features like
                                                   New Zealand
                                                                                                                      FaceTime, the digital age has created the
                                                                                                                      obsession to look camera ready for any
                                                                                                                      occasion at any time.

                                                                                                                      Just like artwork, achieve pixel perfect skin
                                                                                                                      with IMCD’s beauty toolkit. Mask lines with
                                                                                                                      no apps or filters, diminish fine pores,
                                                                                                                      hydrate and protect skin for a bright camera
                                                                                                                      ready effect….no digital enhancement
                                                                                                                      needed. The artful beauty of glass skin
                                                                                                                      appearance is now the norm among the
                                                                                                                      benefits that products provide.

                                                                               2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Peter Lehrke
                                                   HOW NATURE INSPIRES CREATIVITY

                                                                                                                               ABSTRACT
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                                                     PETER LEHRKE                                                              How Nature Inspires Creativity
                                                     Pharmatech                                                                Anyone who has enjoyed New Zealand’s
                                                                                                                               great walks will have experienced the mind

                                                   BIO                                                                         blowing power of a magnificent view of a
                                                                                                                               mountain, river, lake, or bush. Or if you have
                                                   Graduating from Massey University in 1982, Peter has 30 years               really observed and been fascinated by an
                                                   experience in cosmetic formulations, human and veterinary                   animal, bird or even an insect in the wild you
                                                   pharmaceuticals, dietary supplements, and nutritionals.
                                                   Industry roles have included product development, manufacturing,
                                                                                                                               will have noticed the beauty, the symmetry,
                                                   project management and general management.                                  the movement and co-ordination.
                                                   Career includes senior management roles with Glaxo
                                                   Pharmaceuticals, the world’s largest pharmaceutical company in              And maybe you were inspired to go on and
                                                   the 1990’s, PharmaPacific (division of Fernz Corporation and                create something of beauty yourself.
                                                   Nufarm), Douglas Pharmaceuticals, New Zealand’s largest
                                                   pharmaceutical manufacturer, GMP Pharmaceuticals, the fastest
                                                   growing contract supplements company in New Zealand and                     In this presentation you will hear about how
                                                   New Image Group who are the largest direct selling company in               natural phenomena can influence us, and
                                                   Australasia.
                                                                                                                               how one product development company taps
                                                   Peter project managed the design, build and establishment of                into nature as a source of creative inspiration.
                                                   Douglas Pharmaceutical’s Fiji facility, the first pharmaceutical
                                                   factory in the Pacific Islands. In 2003 at supplement manufacturer
                                                   GMP Pharmaceuticals Peter developed the quality system and
                                                   achieved GMP certification for the factory. He then managed the
                                                   company for 2 years growing it from $3.5million to $10 million
                                                   in 2006 which won it the Natural Products New Zealand industry
                                                   Exporter of the Year Award.

                                                   He then took up the role of General Manager of Research and
                                                   Development for New Image Group 2007-2012 until returning to
                                                   industry consulting through Pharmatech.

                                                   Peter is currently an elected member of the Executive Board of
                                                   Natural Products New Zealand, and has served on this industry
                                                   organisation for natural health and beauty products for 14 years.

                                                   Now, Director of his own technical consulting company,
                                                   Pharmaceutical Technologies Ltd., or PharmaTech, he offers new
                                                   product innovation services and other technical and regulatory
                                                   services to nutraceutical, supplements and cosmetics companies.

                                                                                        2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Kevin Roden
                                                   A CONFUSING PRESENTATION ON PRESERVATIVE
                                                   EFFICACY TESTING

                                                                                                                       ABSTRACT
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                                                    KEVIN RODEN                                                        Company Details:
                                                                                                                       Thor Specialties Ltd, PO Box 3124
                                                    Thor Specialties, Technical Manager                                Wetherill Park 2164, Australia
                                                                                                                       P: 61 2 9725 1177

                                                   BIO
                                                                                                                       Fax: 61 2 9725 5677
                                                                                                                       E: kevinr@thorchem.com.au

                                                   Kevin Roden graduated from the University of Sydney                 A Confusing Presentation on Preservative
                                                   with a degree in Microbiology and Pharmacology.                     Efficacy Testing

                                                                                                                       The preservative system chosen for a
                                                   He has had extensive experience in microbiological                  personal care product is an intrinsic part of
                                                   testing and has been employed as Manager for two                    the formulation and care needs to be taken
                                                                                                                       when selecting the most appropriate system
                                                   consultant Microbiological Testing Laboratories                     for each product type. Even following the
                                                   and Quality Assurance Manager for a vaccine                         greatest care in selecting the best preserva-
                                                                                                                       tive systems problems can occur. Preservative
                                                   manufacturer.
                                                                                                                       actives may interact with other raw materials
                                                                                                                       or partition into the wrong phase resulting in
                                                   Kevin was employed in 1991 by Thor Specialties                      inadequate preservation. Preservative Efficacy
                                                                                                                       Tests are routinely conducted and established
                                                   Limited in the position of Technical Services                       pass criteria must be met. The determination
                                                   Manager and established a NATA accredited                           of how results are calculated and presented
                                                   Microbiological Testing Laboratory for evaluating                   may be confusing and use of terms like log
                                                                                                                       reduction even more so.
                                                   the performance of biocides in industrial and
                                                   personal care products.                                             This presentation will cover how the tests
                                                                                                                       are conducted, variations on test methods in
                                                                                                                       use, how the results are calculated and what
                                                                                                                       they mean. The presentation will discuss a
                                                                                                                       number of confusing components of the tests
                                                                                                                       and calculations including a discussion on
                                                                                                                       what log reduction really means and how it is
                                                                                                                       often misused.

                                                                                2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Armelle Sebbag
                                                   EPIGENETICS: THE NEW PARADIGM IN COSMETIC SCIENCE

                                                                                                                         ABSTRACT
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                                                     ARMELLE SEBBAG                                                      Epigenetics: The New Paradigm in
                                                                                                                         Cosmetic Science
                                                     Avenir
                                                                                                                         Epigenetics is the study of the

                                                   BIO                                                                   mechanisms involved in the regulation of
                                                                                                                         gene activity: the biological mechanisms
                                                   Armelle has a Bachelors degree in Cosmetic                            that will switch genes on and off without
                                                                                                                         altering their sequence.
                                                   Chemistry from the University of Montpellier and
                                                   a Masters degree in Cosmetic Formulation from                         We’ll introduce skincare actives that
                                                   ISIPCA, Versailles, France. Armelle has worked as                     have epigenetic activities: moisturising,
                                                   a cosmetic formulator in several large companies                      anti-inflammaging, anti-wrinkle, lifting,
                                                   in France, the US and UK before moving to Australia                   antioxidant…
                                                   8 years ago.

                                                   Her impressive experience includes prestigious
                                                   brands and contract manufacturers. She has worked
                                                   as a cosmetic technical advisor for large contractors
                                                   and her experience includes skin care, hair care, body
                                                   care and colour cosmetics. Armelle brings her wealth
                                                   of knowledge on formulating and ingredients along
                                                   with her bright personality to offer technical advice to
                                                   our customers as she joined the sales team at Avenir
                                                   Ingredients over a year ago.

                                                                                  2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Rahu Shirazi
                                                   SMART BIOACTIVE DELIVERY SYSTEMS FOR COSMECEUTICALS

                                                                                                                        ABSTRACT
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                                                     RAHAU SHIRAZI                                                      Dr Rahau Shirazi
                                                                                                                        Dr Stephen Bloor
                                                     Callaghan
                                                                                                                        Dr Andrew MacKenzie

                                                   BIO                                                                  Smart Bioactive Delivery Systems for
                                                                                                                        Cosmeceuticals
                                                   Rahau Shirazi is a Senior Scientist in Integrated                    Cosmeceuticals are among the fastest growing
                                                                                                                        segment of the personal care market. The quality
                                                   Biotechnology (IBT) Group, Research and Technical
                                                                                                                        of health promoting products in the world market
                                                   Services of Callaghan Innovation, New Zealand.                       depends on the stability and safety of added bioactives.
                                                   She graduated in Iran before her PhD at the                          Technological advancement is needed to manipulate
                                                                                                                        matter at molecular level to protect functionality against
                                                   University of California, Santa Barbara (UCSB),                      environmental factors, mask unpleasant aroma,
                                                   U.S.A. During her PhD she developed and assessed                     extend shelf-life, and improve bioavailability. Food-grade
                                                                                                                        encapsulants with the ability to protect sensitive
                                                   functionality of series of new stimuli-responsive lipid              compounds are robust platforms for functional delivery
                                                   materials for gene delivery. Her work is published in                of bioactives such as vitamins. While the sensitivity of
                                                                                                                        vitamins to environmental degradation factors (e.g. UV)
                                                   multiple journals with one selected by the Editor of                 varies for each vitamin, such degradation can lead to
                                                   the Langmuir Journal for the cover of July 2012.                     loss of bioactivity, significant molecular deterioration,
                                                                                                                        and production of toxins (Fu P., Photochem Photobiol
                                                                                                                        2007;83(2):409).
                                                   Her current research in Lipids Team of Callaghan
                                                   Innovation is on development of functional lipid-                    We report on development and characterization of
                                                                                                                        functional delivery systems using food-grade materials
                                                   based materials with applications in cosmeceuticals                  for micro-encapsulation of liposoluble bioactives such
                                                   and nutraceuticals.                                                  as vitamin A, E and D3 in our lab. The delivery systems
                                                                                                                        are prepared with food-grade materials, processed by
                                                                                                                        food-grade friendly methods, and evaluated for their
                                                                                                                        structure, size, and shelf-life stability against oxidation
                                                                                                                        using Scanning Electron Microscope, Zetasizer nano,
                                                                                                                        and Oxitest. The outcome of this study is relevant to
                                                                                                                        the development of an effective platform through the
                                                                                                                        selection of appropriate delivery system.

                                                                                                                        Affiliations: Callaghan Innovation; Wellington,
                                                                                                                        New Zealand

                                                                                 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Joseph Chan
                                                   BEAUTY IS ART (A PERSPECTIVE ON THE USE
                                                   OF SURFACTANTS TO EXEMPLIFY BEAUTY)

                                                                                                                       ABSTRACT
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                                                    JOSEPH CHAN                                                        Company Details:
                                                                                                                       Stepan Company
                                                    Stepan Company, Market Manager                                     Corporate Headquarters, 22 West Frontage Rd
                                                                                                                       Northfield, Illinois 60093, USA

                                                   BIO
                                                                                                                       P: (847) 448-7500
                                                                                                                       www.stepan.com

                                                   Joseph Chan is currently working as a Market                        Beauty is Art (A perspective on the use of
                                                                                                                       surfactants to exemplify beauty)
                                                   Manager (Consumer) at Stepan Company.
                                                   He listens to the needs of the customer market in                   Art is an expression of our thoughts,
                                                   APAC, and helps to provide solutions for his                        emotions, intuition, and desires, but it is even
                                                                                                                       more personal than that: it’s about sharing the
                                                   customers. He also believes in building relationships               way we experience the world, which for many
                                                   with his customers and champions outreach                           is an extension of personality. Personality can
                                                   activities such as tradeshow participation and                      be considered to be the soul of beauty. A good
                                                                                                                       personality can make even the plain-looking
                                                   seminar presentations. Joseph had served many                       person look beautiful. Personality signifies
                                                   roles, including Senior Scientist, Consumer Product                 the inner psychological characteristics that
                                                                                                                       reflect how a person reacts to his environment.
                                                   Chemist and Chemist during his career at Stepan.                    Personality shows the individual choices for
                                                                                                                       various products and brands. It helps the
                                                   Prior to Stepan, Joseph worked as a Lecturer at                     marketers in deciding when and how to
                                                   Singapore Polytechnic and worked as a Chemist in                    promote the product.
                                                   Croda. He helped develop new products, test
                                                                                                                       In our presentation, we will attempt to relate
                                                   methods and upscale manufacturing projects.                         personal care products and ingredients to their
                                                   Joseph is currently pursuing his Master of Business                 associated personality traits such as
                                                                                                                       adventurous, gentle and stylish etc. We will
                                                   Administration from Singapore University of Social                  share with the audiences some unique
                                                   Sciences. He obtained his Master's degree in                        characteristics of the personal care products
                                                   Chemistry from National University of Singapore                     and ingredients such as sulfate-free,
                                                                                                                       non-irritating surfactants and silicone-free etc.
                                                   (NUS) in 2009. He also obtained his Bachelor's                      We will also share how these product or
                                                   degree in Chemistry from NUS in 2001. Joseph was                    ingredient characteristics exemplifies a
                                                                                                                       specific personality trait.
                                                   conferred Dean's List in 2000.

                                                                                2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Patrycja Pytel
                                                   EXCITING FINDINGS FROM IN-COSMETICS

                                                                                              innovations

                                                                                                                       ABSTRACT
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                                                    PATRYCJA PYTEL                                                     The Art of Never Ending Curiosity -
                                                    Verital                                                            exciting findings from In-Cosmetics

                                                                                                                       In a fast paced and changing world, the

                                                   BIO                                                                 evolution of cosmetic concepts and
                                                                                                                       formulations must stay ahead in an artful
                                                   Dr Patrycja Pytel is a director and co-founder of                   way, keeping end users of finished
                                                                                                                       cosmetic products satisfied and curious
                                                   Verital Innovations; a New Zealand company
                                                                                                                       for future innovations. The cosmetic
                                                   dedicated to the cosmetic & personal care industry,                 industry is a living and evolving machine
                                                   supplying sustainable, natural, organic, ethical,                   whose aim is for perfection, always leaving
                                                   efficacious and clinically-proven ingredients.                      doors open for new ideas and creations.
                                                                                                                       It is revolutionary, caring, constantly
                                                                                                                       evolving by staying in touch with the needs
                                                   Patrycja holds a Master of Science degree in
                                                                                                                       of an inquisitive audience.
                                                   Biological Chemistry from Jagiellonian University
                                                   (Krakow) and PhD in Chemistry from the University                   This presentation will describe new
                                                   of Auckland.                                                        ingredients and concepts that have been
                                                                                                                       launched at In-Cos Global Amsterdam
                                                                                                                       2018 and will be helpful in the art of
                                                   Before moving into sales and business management
                                                                                                                       satisfying consumers of finished cosmetic
                                                   roles and founding Verital Innovations she worked                   and personal care products.
                                                   as a Formulation Scientist in Pliva Kraków
                                                   Pharmaceutical Company, a Tutor at The University
                                                   of Auckland and as a R&D Chemist at API Consumer
                                                   Brands.

                                                                                2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Helen Costanza & Michelle Dalli
                                                   BE AUTHENIC WITH BASF CARE CREATIONS

                                                                                                                        ABSTRACT
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                                                    HELEN COSTANZA & MICHELE DALLI
                                                    BASF                                                                Company Details:
                                                                                                                        BASF Australia Ltd, Level 12

                                                   BIO
                                                                                                                        28 Freshwater Place, Southbank, VIC 3006
                                                                                                                        Australia
                                                                                                                        E: Michele.dalli@basf.com
                                                   Helen Costanza                                                       E: Helen.costanza@basf.com
                                                   I first entered the world of Personal Care in 2001                   Author: Aurelie Saintigny
                                                   when l joined then Henkel, which soon after became                   Presenting Authors: Michele Dalli and
                                                   Cognis. I worked in the Customer Service role for                    Helen Costanza
                                                   6 and half years before leaving Cognis to pursue a                   Be Authenic with BASF Care Creations
                                                   role in the Building Industry which is my background
                                                   as a qualified Architectural Draftsperson. Through                   BASF Care Creations™ cares beyond
                                                                                                                        ingredients, trying to provide various options
                                                   my continued relationship with Dr Teresa Harding                     to enhance each experience in the moments
                                                   I was persuaded to return to the Personal Care                       of pampering and caring oneself.
                                                   Industry in 2013 joining BASF as the Distributor
                                                                                                                        Driven by trends, from innovative textures
                                                   Manager for ANZ.
                                                                                                                        to unique sensory we seek for opportunities
                                                                                                                        to fulfil needs and wants of consumers
                                                   Michele Dalli                                                        using solutions.
                                                   After completing my Bachelor of Science Degree,
                                                                                                                        The world of Cosmetics is shaped by
                                                   I joined Henkel in the Quality Control Department in                 diverse and changing lifestyle trends.
                                                   1997. In 2001 this division was carved out and                       If we look and listen closely we can draw
                                                   become Cognis, my role was then working solely                       inspiration from the patterns that emerge –
                                                                                                                        like the merging of authentic, nature oriented
                                                   in the lab as Development & Technical Service
                                                                                                                        lifestyles and sophisticated beauty.
                                                   Chemist. In 2011 Cognis was purchased by BASF,
                                                   and once again my role changed to Technical Sales
                                                   Specialist and Account Management.

                                                                                 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Daniela Lima
                                                   THE NEW GREENERY

                                                                                                                        PRESENTATION
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                                                     DANIELA LIMA                                                       The New Greenery

                                                     Connell Bros, Business Development Manager                         Ecology has been around for decades (especially in western
                                                                                                                        countries), but it has now taken on a new meaning. Indeed, from
                                                                                                                        the negative and passive approach typical of the 70’s and 80’s,
                                                                                                                        today it has turned into a positive and proactive concept among

                                                   BIO                                                                  consumers: the think green ideology.
                                                                                                                        People are more optimistic towards the future and believe that our
                                                                                                                        actions are important and can save the environment. Therefore,
                                                   Daniela Lima is the Business Development Manager                     there is an increased opportunity for companies, as clients are more
                                                                                                                        willing to pay a higher price if this means buying products which are
                                                   of Personal Care for Connell Bros in AUS.                            eco-friendly and, at the same time, produced in a
                                                                                                                        sustainable way.

                                                   Daniela has been working in the cosmetic industry                    However, it is really important for brands to understand that they
                                                                                                                        do not accept anymore the parallelism “organic = ugly and not
                                                   for 17 years. Her knowledge covers both Australia                    appealing”, as they expect cosmetics and beauty products to be
                                                                                                                        at the same time:
                                                   and Brazil.
                                                                                                                        •   natural and organic, but also
                                                                                                                        •   beautiful at sight, appealing and
                                                   Her extensive technical know how covers R&D as                       •   highly effective

                                                   well as Innovation.                                                  Based on their openness / closeness towards the future, and
                                                                                                                        on their individual rather than sociological focus, we can divide
                                                                                                                        4 groups of consumers answering this macro-trend:
                                                   She has developed many formulations such as                          • Eco-luxury: it’s the meeting point between nature and science,
                                                                                                                        as consumer accept a complete integration between nature and the
                                                   sunscreens, anti-aging, whitening, tooth paste just                  highest technologies if this means having more effective and per-
                                                                                                                        sonalized products. Brands communication must involve these key
                                                   to name a few.                                                       words: élite experiences, luxury, technology, ostentation.
                                                                                                                        • Eco-iconic: they are sensitive to social recognition, as they identify
                                                   She has been working at CBC for almost 3 years in                    themselves in green and natural products through which they are
                                                                                                                        able to express their believes and who they are. Communication
                                                   a technical sales role to further enhance her career                 must turn around social media, bran identity, appearance and
                                                                                                                        social status.
                                                   in the PHC industry.
                                                                                                                        • Eco-healthy: they feel personally responsible for the future of the
                                                                                                                        environment and the society; they refuse completely synthetic
                                                                                                                        chemicals as they are worried for the damages to their health
                                                                                                                        (importance of vegan cosmetics and food for skin, with the mantra
                                                                                                                        “if you wouldn’t eat it, don’t put it on your skin”).

                                                                                                                        • Green consciousness: they are the more informed consumers:
                                                                                                                        they look for certifications and can read the INCI of the products,
                                                                                                                        therefore and they are not easily brainwashed by communication.
                                                                                                                        They want more than just natural products, as they expect a con-
                                                                                                                        crete commitment of the brand in sustainable and green projects.

                                                                                 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Dr Ted Kim
                                                   EOSIDIN - THE IMMUNO-MODULATOR FOR INDOOR
                                                   POLLUTION CONTROL

                                                                                                                      ABSTRACT
                                                    DR TED KIM
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                                                                                                                      Eosidin - The immuno-modulator for
                                                    Biospectrum, Director, Head of Sales                              indoor pollution control
                                                    & Marketing
                                                                                                                      Eosidin is the first product targeting

                                                   BIO                                                                specifically indoor pollution and tackling
                                                                                                                      skin immuno-modulation to avoid
                                                   Ted Kim took over the responsibility as head                       atopic-prone skin condition and
                                                                                                                      hypersensitivity.
                                                   of BioSpectrum’s sales and marketing since
                                                   September 2014. Joining BioSpectrum in 2013,                       It is a natural active ingredient extracted
                                                   Ted has demonstrated excellent management and                      from green citrus unshiu originated from
                                                   communication with global partners. He was named                   Jeju island in Korea, a UNESCO heritage
                                                   as director in March 2016.                                         protected island. Citrus unshiu is rich in
                                                                                                                      synephrine and hesperidin, highly potent
                                                                                                                      molecules that play a major role in
                                                   Ted’s technical knowledge in cosmetic ingredients                  regulating the eotaxin synthesis process,
                                                   is matched by his academic background. He                          responsible for histamine release.
                                                   studied at POSTECH in Korea and finished Ph.D.
                                                   from the Department of Life Sciences majoring in
                                                   Molecular biology in 2014.

                                                                               2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
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