A Magazine about Acadia National Park and Surrounding Communities - Winter 2019 Volume 24 No. 3 - A Magazine about Acadia National ...
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Winter 2019
Volume 24 No. 3
A Magazine about Acadia National Park and Surrounding Communities
Purchase Your Park Pass!
Whether driving, walking, bicycling, or riding the Island
Explorer through the park, we all must pay the entrance fee.
Eighty percent of all fees paid in Acadia stay in Acadia, to be
used for projects that directly benefit park visitors and resources.
Open Seasonally:
Bar Harbor Village Green
Blackwoods, Seawall, and Schoodic Woods campgrounds
Hulls Cove Visitor Center
Jordan Pond and Cadillac Mountain Gift Shops
Sand Beach Entrance Station Annual park passes are also available at certain
Thompson Island Information Center Acadia-area town offices and local businesses;
contact the park at 207-288-3338 to find
Open Year-Round: additional pass sales locations.
Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce/Acadia Information Center
Corner of Main and Cottage Streets, Bar Harbor 207-288-5103
Park passes are now available online. Visit
www.yourpassnow.com
President’s Message
Helping Acadia Prepare for Change
W
hen a small group of committed favorable for them. Students from the
volunteers joined forces to form University of Maine and College of the
Friends of Acadia in 1986, they Atlantic are helping to monitor Acadia’s
showed tremendous foresight regarding the lakes and streams, and citizen scientists
challenges that Acadia National Park would everywhere are contributing observations
face in the ensuing years. Documents from of how wildlife behavior and migrations
those earliest days show an emphasis are being affected.
on understanding the pressures created These examples illustrate that our
by growing visitation, the perils of an responses to a changing climate will vary.
increasing backlog of deferred maintenance In some instances, we will resist change—
on trails and carriage roads, and how to as with our work to remove invasive plants.
better engage community members and In other situations, we will look to adapt—
youth in the park. Today, these very issues as with efforts to install larger culverts in
remain among the most important priorities the face of increased intensity of rainfall
for FOA’s work in helping our park thrive in events. In still others, we will anticipate
FOA/ASHLEY CONTI
its second century. and get a head start on change—as with
One challenge that our founders could the test plots to evaluate certain species
not have fully anticipated, however, is to determine the best possible successor
how a changing climate would bring new plants as others are no longer able to thrive
stresses and threats to Acadia. Still, today, Acadia and other national parks also here in a warmer, wetter climate.
we are struggling to understand what the have an important role to play in com- In addition to this work by institutions,
future might hold. But the ability of a be- municating climate change to the visiting it takes many individual actions to make a
loved place like Acadia to inspire research, public and bringing an issue that can feel collective difference in addressing climate
creativity, discussion, and commitment in overwhelmingly broad down to a place- change. By focusing on individual choices,
the face of challenges like these means that based scale that is meaningful to the mil- as well as supporting broader policy
FOA and partners can provide leadership lions of visitors each year. initiatives and projects, we can help Acadia
even as we navigate uncharted waters. With science leading the way, a growing and other natural areas adapt and prepare
How will Acadia fare as the climate community of partners here at Acadia is for changing environmental conditions.
changes? No one can say for sure. But collaborating on approaches that strive When I was recently asked to be part
what we are experiencing already is an to do just that and make Acadia’s natural of a panel speaking about conservation
Acadia that is warmer and wetter, with values as healthy and resilient as possible issues to a local fifth-grade class, climate
bigger storms, higher and more acidic in the face of unprecedented change. change was clearly the topic weighing
seas, longer growing (and visitation) For example, Maine Coast Heritage most heavily on these young students’
seasons, and changing species. These Trust is seeking to conserve lands that minds. They were both proud of, and
changes affect every aspect of the park, will allow salt marsh eco-systems vital to worried about, the national park in their
from natural and cultural resources Acadia to migrate in the future as sea level back yard; their awareness of what was
to the visitor experience, from park rises. Schoodic Institute is experimenting at stake and their determination to be
infrastructure and staffing to public safety. with test plots of native plant species involved in solutions was heartening.
How can Acadia and its partners that would fare well on the inhospitable Theirs are among the voices that will shape
respond? First, we are doing our best to summits of Acadia’s mountains as the future of this organization and this
understand this new paradigm and to conditions there change. Municipal public park during its second century, as climate
support a park management strategy that works departments are replacing culverts change has become one of Acadia’s biggest
must be dynamic and adaptive. Even as to anticipate increased rain events and challenges that we must all tackle together.
we often wish that a favorite place like stream flow and to better accommodate
Acadia will always remain exactly as we fish and amphibian passage.
have known it, we recognize that it will be FOA is funding work to remove —David MacDonald
impossible to prevent or resist some of the invasive plant species that are seeking a
changes that are coming. toehold here as conditions become more
Friends of Acadia Journal Winter 2019 1
15
BOARD OF DIRECTORS
Anne Green, Chair Bill Eacho, Treasurer
Hank Schmelzer, Vice Chair Jack Kelley, Secretary
Mark Amstutz C. Boyden Gray Winter 2019
Julie Banzhaf-Stone Margaret Jeffery
Emily Beck David Katona
Volume 24 No. 3
Gail Clark Story Litchfield
Hannah Sistare Clark Paul Mayewski
Sam Coplon Lili Pew
Andrew Davis Edward L. Samek
Dave Edson Nonie Sullivan
John Fassak Christiaan van Heerden
Elsie Flemings Bill Zoellick
HONORARY TRUSTEES Debby Lash
Noni Ames Linda Lewis
6 12 28
Robert and Anne Bass Liz Martinez
Fred Benson Phoebe Milliken
Sylvia Blake George J. and Heather Mitchell
Frederic A. Bourke Jr. Joseph Murphy
Tristram and Ruth Colket Nancy Nimick
Gail Cook Jack Perkins* f e at u r e s
Shelby and Gale Davis Nancy Pyne*
Dianna Emory Ann R. Roberts 6 Hawk Watch Marks Quarter Century
Nathaniel Fenton Jeannine Ross
Frances Fitzgerald Jack Russell Volunteers Are Scientists’ Eyes On The Sky
Sheldon Goldthwait Howard Solomon By Seth Benz
Neva Goodwin Erwin Soule
Paul and Eileen Growald Diana Davis Spencer 3 Outdoor Classroom Excitement Grows
Paul Haertel Julia Merck Utsch
Cookie Horner Dick Wolf
Expanding Horizons Beyond Four Walls
Lee Judd * Deceased By Paige Steele
11 Visitor Center Redo Seeks To Bridge Gap
EMERITUS TRUSTEES Aging Facility Refreshed, Improved
W. Kent Olson Charles R. Tyson Jr.
By Earl Brechlin
FRIENDS OF ACADIA STAFF 12 Acadia’s Coat of Many Colors
Mary Boëchat David R. MacDonald
Development Officer President & CEO Autumn Splendor Is Nature’s Best Show
Earl D. Brechlin Amy Magill By Ashley Conti
Communications Director Administrative Assistant
14 Transportation Plan Inches Ahead
Sharon Broom Dana Petersen
Development Officer Stewardship Volunteer
Implementation Timeline Shapes Up
Coordinator By Earl Brechlin
Stephanie Clement
Conservation Director Mike Staggs 15 Acadia Is Ideal Winter Classroom
Office Manager
Lisa Horsch Clark Cold, Snow, Coping Are Core Curriculum
Director of Development Paige Steele
& Donor Relations Conservation Projects By Lynn Fantom
Manager
Sarah Curts
Accounting & Administrative Julia Walker Thomas perspectives
Associate Digital Media Manager
1 President’s Message The Shape of Friends of Acadia’s Future
Jason Irwin Lisa Williams
Vice President for Finance Communications 5 What We Heard From You Reflections On A Great Year
& Administration Web & Design Associate 8 Studying How You Play Rec Techs Are Boots On Ground
Shawn Keeley JoAnne Wood 9 Superintendent’s View Rising to Meet the Challenges of 2020
Senior Development Officer Development Assistant
31 Chair’s Letter Challenges and Unanticipated Joys
d e pa r t m e n t s
4 Where in Acadia? PRST STD
10 Acadia Insider U.S. POSTAGE
19 Business Members PAID
20 New Donors AUBURN, MAINE
PERMIT #82
24 Updates
32 Special Person
2 Winter 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal
FOA/PAIGE STEELE
Students from Deer Isle -Stonington Elementary School explore the outdoors on a nature trail built with the help of Friends of Acadia. The trail connects to the
school’s outdoor classroom, also supported by FOA.
Outdoor Classroom Excitement Grows
By Paige Steele
F
our years ago, education staff at Acadia and invasive plants. Oceanside High students
National Park began thinking of ways in Rockland will also have a new outdoor
to connect every Maine student to their classroom surrounded by a butterfly garden,
national park. Knowing the constraints of time, serving multiple academic and social purposes.
distance, and shifting budgets would prevent After years in the making, Deer Isle-
some classes from visiting the park in person, Stonington Elementary (DISES) completed a
they began to brainstorm solutions. An idea 1,000-foot bogwalk connecting the campus to
emerged to cultivate an outdoor classroom their existing outdoor classroom that is already
program, connecting students to Acadia on well used. On Oct. 18, the school officially
FOA/PAIGE STEELE
their school campus, while also instilling opened the DISES Nature Trail. Students
stewardship values of their shared lands and proudly marched in a celebratory parade
waters. Whether in Acadia or their hometown, through a beautiful red maple swamp filled
youth can learn how to be the caretakers of with giant skunk cabbages, cinnamon ferns,
their environment. A park ranger works with students as part of FOA’s sundew plants, and yellow birches.
This concept fit perfectly into Friends of Collaboratory Workshop with the Mount Desert In addition to outdoor classrooms being
Island School System.
Acadia’s vision to increase youth engagement created or expanded on campuses across Maine,
with Acadia National Park, and we began It’s an outdoor educational space that brings Friends of Acadia is piloting a more in-depth
providing outdoor classroom grants in 2015 learning to life by encouraging students to take stewardship model with the Mount Desert
to early learning centers and schools in Maine. their studies outside, where intriguing lessons Island Regional School System. Grant funds
What is an outdoor classroom, you may ask? can be presented in all seasons. are used to support a teacher collaboratory
Components of an outdoor classroom comprising teachers, administrators, Acadia’s
can include trails, study and creative spaces, education staff, community partners, and
Outdoor Classrooms gardens, greenhouses, and fitness elements. the Acadia Teacher Fellows. Early on, the
Make A Difference Schools awarded an outdoor classroom grant collaboratory decided to focus on the special
The following is an excerpt from a commit to training staff to teach in the out of surroundings of each school as a theme for
note received in September: doors. Students are expected to learn outdoors their outdoor classrooms: Trenton–forest, Bar
“The first month of school is exciting… and 10 percent of school days, and educators will Harbor–ocean, Northeast Harbor–islands,
this year it’s even more exciting because of link three lessons per year to Acadia. Schools Southwest Harbor–migration, and Tremont–
the generous grant from Friends of Acadia! are also awarded transportation funds for marsh, and to teach their students how to
We are so incredibly grateful. We seriously a field trip to Acadia, or they may bring an steward these communities. These stewardship
cannot thank this program enough. You’ve Acadia education ranger to campus. zones have informed the design of the new
made an extraordinary difference in the 2019 was the grant program’s most active learning spaces on the Trenton and Tremont
academic, social, and emotional development year so far. The goal of awarding three grants campuses, along with lessons to be taught
of students at Oceanside High School, in 2019 was met by mid-summer with outside on phenology, bird migration, weather,
especially students in the special education applications steadily arriving. The schools are and mapping throughout the school system.
department. We’ll look forward to sharing designing spaces to best suit their learning The team achieves this work by meeting
the developments with you! needs. Tremont Consolidated School students in small groups and participating in full-
With gratitude, Jessica.” will have a brand-new outdoor learning space day workshops as a whole group, such as
to study plant phenology, comparing native continued on page 26
Friends of Acadia Journal Winter 2019 3
Where in Acadia?
Winter 2019
Volume 24 No.3
A Magazine about Acadia National Park
and Surrounding Communities
Friends of Acadia preserves, protects, and
promotes stewardship of the outstanding
natural beauty, ecological vitality,
and distinctive cultural resources of
Acadia National Park and surrounding
communities for the inspiration
and enjoyment of current and
future generations.
Where in Acadia? In this quintessential glacial mountain notch can be found the highest The Journal is published three times a year.
four-way, non-summit trail intersection in Acadia National Park. Paths radiate out in all the Submissions and letters are welcome. See
cardinal directions. For students of history, “Dry” and “Green” were names associated with http://friendsofacadia.org/news-publications/
friends-of-acadia-journal/submissions/
this area in olden times.
Opinions expressed are the authors’.
If you think you can identify this scene email us at editor@friendsofacadia.org and feel free to in-
clude a personal story or memory with your answer. We’ll print our favorite responses in the next EDITOR
issue of the Friends of Acadia Journal, and we’ll send a Friends of Acadia cap to those selected. Earl D. Brechlin
DESIGN
Summer 2019 Where in Acadia? Z Studio
View of Kief (not chief) Pond, from the Bee- PRINTING
hive trail. We’ve got plenty to be thankful for Penmor Lithographers
on this island, but a hike with your brother PUBLISHER
on Thanksgiving morning is sweeter than David R. MacDonald
honey. —Sean Dwyer, Bar Harbor
Winter 2019
The picture is from Beehive looking toward Volume 24 No. 3
Gorham. We’ve climbed this trail—the first
time with our four-year old and then with family and friends many times—every time some-
one visits; at least once a year if not more. A memorable time was when we caught up to
a couple celebrating their first wedding anniversary. The woman was stopped on the trail
midway where the ladders begin, unable to go up or down due to her fear of heights. When
we reassured her, she was nearly at the top, and that there was an alternate trail heading back
down, she was able to make it the rest of the way to the top to finish. —Bonnie Tai, Bar Harbor
A Magazine about Acadia National Park and Surrounding Communities
The photo is from the Beehive Trail and the pond is Kief Pond with Gorham Mountain ridge in
Snowfall softens the view from the boat launch area
background. I first hiked Beehive in 1987 with my son and a friend who were both 8. I realized at Eagle Lake in Acadia National Park.
about halfway up I had made a mistake in thinking the trail was suitable for children but real- Photo by Julia Walker Thomas.
ized there was no turning around. The boys loved it and we all survived to tell the tale. After
that, when I hiked Beehive, I hiked it alone, most recently at age 71 in the summer of 2018.
The views are utterly stupendous, especially the brilliant blues and greens of the water at Sand
Beach. —Megan Hack, Gordonsville, Virginia
This Journal is printed on paper made with 100%
recycled fiber and 60% post-consumer waste, processed
This is a view southwest from The Beehive Ladder Trail. I last hiked it about four years ago with
chlorine free, and manufactured in the USA with 100%
my cousin Sandy Andrews. I was 75 at the time and was very conscious of declining balance Green-e certified renewable energy.
ability. I roundly cursed him for taking me (he was 64), but I loved it and it made for great Printed with soy-based ink.
stories over a beer or two. —Eliot Scull, Wenatchee, Washington
4 Winter 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal
Reflections on a Great Year
By Lisa Horsch Clark
A
fter the hustle and bustle of the More than half of respondents had heard treated to a visit by Mr. Dorr, featuring
summer season ends, I have a of our key events including Earth Day thoughts and reflections on modern-day
chance to catch up with the friends Roadside Cleanup, Take Pride in Acadia park conditions. The reading was brought
and members I may have missed visiting Day, the Annual Friends of Acadia Benefit, to us by some technological wizardry on
with during the summer. I also have the the part of FOA Communications Director
time to reflect on and evaluate the many Earl Brechlin. It was a new and fun way to
With nearly a dozen different
projects and events we managed during celebrate the words and work of the Father
the year. programs for youth spanning of Acadia.
One significant project launched in early in ages from four to twenty- As winter approaches, we will continue
spring was the FOA Friend and Member program evaluations and summaries to
survey that we conduct every 10 years. As four, much good work is being share with FOA members, park staff, and
I read through the survey responses and done to help engage the next the leadership at Friends of Acadia. This
comments, I discovered the great majority work will serve as the foundation for our
of respondents are satisfied with their
generation of park stewards. programs next summer, all in our quest to
relationship with FOA and feel as though reach and inspire current and new friends
and our Annual Meeting. Far fewer
their investment, whether it be membership who want to help us preserve and protect
respondents had heard of the George B.
dues, charitable gifts, or volunteer time, is Acadia. �
Dorr Society event.
used effectively.
This year’s George B. Dorr event marked
Most respondents are familiar with FOA’s LISA HORSCH CLARK is Friends of
its 15th anniversary. It focused on the
work with the Island Explorer, the Wild Acadia’s director of development.
history of trail building in Acadia and
Gardens of Acadia, and the Acadia Winter
featured long-time Acadia Trail Foreman
Trails Association. But fewer are familiar
Gary Stellpflug. Gary is always generous
with our important programs and events
with his time and is one of the best story
for young people. With nearly a dozen
tellers I know. Our day with him in late July
different programs for youth spanning in
at the Asticou Inn included more than 70
ages from four to twenty-four, much good
guests. After a delicious lunch, some hiked
work is being done to help engage the next
with Gary on the Jordan Pond Asticou Trail
generation of park stewards. To learn about
to hear about bridge building, boundaries,
these programs, please visit our website at
and the history of the trail system.
www.friendsofacadia.org
The George B. Dorr Society event is a
On the communications front, more
small way to thank those who have left a
than 90 percent of respondents are pleased
with the Friends of Acadia Journal, but
they also enjoy the monthly e-news and
bequest or other planned gift to Friends
of Acadia in their estate plans. The society Society membership
honors George Bucknam Dorr, gentleman, According to the recent Friend and
visit our website. Respondents want more
scholar, and lover of nature, whose Member survey, 88 families have
feature stories and photos of the park on
dedication to preserving Mount Desert included Friends of Acadia in their
our website. We will work with the FOA
Island helped create Acadia National Park. estate plans. If you have made future
Acadia Digital Media Team next year to
Another related and unique event provisions for FOA, we want to know
develop more of this content.
was held on August 5 at the Kedge, the so we can thank you in advance for all
Our volunteers were most pleased with the
lovely Bar Harbor home of Susan and that will be accomplished with your
camaraderie and sense of accomplishment
Steven Raab. On a former site, the home gift and to include you on our roster
with their work. We are fortunate to have
served as the clubhouse for the Mount of George B. Dorr Society members.
thousands of dedicated volunteers working
Desert Reading Room. In its halls walked Please contact Lisa Horsch Clark,
to help preserve and protect the park. The
Dorr, President Benjamin Harrison, J. P. director of development, at 207-288-
value of last year’s volunteer labor exceeded
Morgan, John Jacob Astor IV, Cornelius 3340 or lisahorsch@friendsofacadia.
$250,000, making FOA and park dollars
Vanderbilt, Joseph Pulitzer, and other org to let us know or to learn more
go much farther. Respondents said that
luminaries. The occasion marked the 75th about leaving a bequest or future gift
they would like more year-round volunteer
anniversary of Mr. Dorr’s death. We were to FOA.
opportunities.
Friends of Acadia Journal Winter 2019 5
Hawk Watch Marks Quarter Century
By Seth Benz
H
awk watching in Acadia National flyway. Hence, no Spring count is conducted.
Park formally came of age a quarter Observers use 8 or 10X binoculars to
of a century ago. spot and identify hawks. Observations are
Cadillac Mountain’s geographical posi- recorded by the hour on a standardized
tion, located north of latitude N44 in the data sheet and reports are sent to a
FOA/ASHLEY CONTI
northeast corner of the U.S., is considered national repository. Visitors are welcome
the headwaters of a great southbound aerial and encouraged to participate by helping
river of migrating raptors. The birds come to spot migrants. They also can learn
out of eastern Canada as well as Washington from the expertise and camaraderie of
and Hancock counties here in Maine. A Peregrine in flight. more experienced hawk watchers and the
They will eventually join up with other educational messaging imparted by the
geographical tributaries of hawks. Numbers yards west of the summit parking lot along rangers.
swell into the tens of thousands as the Cadillac’s North Ridge Trail. Observers use the names of landscape
airborne flow of raptors passes through both The effort is a collaborative operation features to point out where each hawk
Pennsylvania’s Hawk Mountain Sanctuary between park interpreters, a Friends of appears. “There’s a bird half a glass over Bald
and Cape May, New Jersey. Acadia-sponsored raptor intern, and Porcupine moving toward Bar Island, going
Four weeks after passing Cadillac Schoodic Institute’s Bird Ecology Programs fast,” says one. “I can see pointed wings,
Mountain, the hawks reach Corpus Christi, which recruits and trains volunteer citizen- looks like a falcon,” reports another. “Yes, I
Texas where tallies reach 100,000 or more. scientists and then collates data. Daily got it. It’s a Peregrine!” exalts a ranger.
One week after that, numbers at Veracruz, counts take place from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. from Each hawk inspires passionate descriptors
Mexico can be in the millions! mid-August through mid-October. Anyone like that, called out to seize onlookers’
Hawk Watch on Cadillac is a special, can drop in at any time. attention on the subject bird of the moment.
stationary form of bird watching — a point In Spring, when the hawks migrate Each hawk is identified by looking at
count designed to monitor the autumn’s northward, they tend to disperse across shape, size, flight style, and field marks.
seasonal passage of migratory birds of prey. the continent by using different flyways Making a positive identification sounds easy
The actual spot is a small exposed outcrop than those taken in the fall. At Cadillac, for until someone actually tries it.
of granite located just a couple hundred instance, we have detected no concentrated In addition to quickly locating the hawk,
FOA /JULIA WALKER THOMAS
FOA/JULIA WALKER THOMAS
Volunteers watch for migrating raptors from a vantage along the North Ridge Trail on Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park.
6 Winter 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal
“There’s a bird half a glass over Bald Porcupine
moving toward Bar Island, going fast,” says
one. “I can see pointed wings, looks like a
FOA/ASHLEY CONTI
falcon,” reports another.
observers must factor in wind conditions, spread among the other 11 species. program is fashioned with a pedigree that
cloud cover (which impacts lighting), Over time, population trends emerge. exemplifies dedicated volunteerism, scien-
distance, and angle of proper focus to see Watchers have documented a resurgence tific inquiry, and conservation education.
plumage detail, if any. Lastly, the gestalt of of the American Bald Eagle, once depleted We hope to continue to deliver the enjoy-
the bird—how it carries itself, coupled with by DDT. Statistics support evidence of a ment, edification, and visitor engagement in
its flight behavior—must be considered. northward range expansion by Turkey the phenomenon of hawk migration long
Even with careful scrutiny, not all can be Vultures. into the future.
identified. All, however, are counted. Some And, despite the statistical likelihood On a morning this past October, a
simply are listed as “unidentified raptor.” of spotting a Sharp-shinned Hawk or northwest wind and the sound and sight of
Fourteen species have been spotted. Each American Kestrel, data suggest both species familiar friends already arrived heightens the
is triggered to migrate separately as days are in decline —likely due to a depletion of anticipation. Everyone wears layers of warm
shorten, temperatures cool, and winds blow the songbirds and insects they respectively clothing, watch caps and gloves. Binoculars
from the north. Since Cadillac’s inaugural feed upon. Additionally, researchers are are up and scanning. �
Hawk Watch day on August 28, 1995 investigating potential shifts in timing of
through October 9, 2019, a grand total of migration by different species. SETH BENZ of Belfast heads up the
71,681 hawks have been tallied. A typical In a very direct way, the initial proposal Schoodic Institute Bird Ecology Program,
hour of observation produces 12 sightings. to establish a hawk watch site in Acadia where he combines research, education, and
Three species predominate: Sharp- National Park drew inspiration from Hawk citizen science to study bird migration and
shinned Hawk (36 percent), Broad-winged Mountain Sanctuary in Pennsylvania. It was the sequencing of nature’s events.
Hawk (23 percent), and American Kestrel the very first hawk watch site in the world,
(21 percent). The remaining 20 percent is established in 1934. The Cadillac Mountain
FOA/JULIA WALKER THOMAS
While on an autumn Hawk Watch atop Cadillac Mountain, a volunteer scans the sky to the north and east to try to identify passing raptors on their
annual migration south.
Friends of Acadia Journal Winter 2019 7
Recreation Technician:
Working to Study How You Play
By Becca Stanley
O
ver just the last few seasons the that ascend the three-mile road as well. road corridors to best understand user
rising tide of Acadia National These volume counts are used to help groups, volume counts, and trends. In
Park visitation has surged. Acadia develop best management practices for park 2018, the first year of the winter use
logged 2.5 million visits is 2010, 2.8 resources, traffic management protocols, study, there was a large influx of visits to
million in 2015 and 3.5 million in 2018. and strategies to cope with increased visitor the Parkman Mountain Carriage Road
This increase has contributed to the park’s use while attempting to maintain a positive and Brown Mountain Carriage Road
reputation as one of the most intensely visitor experience. entrances. These surges were in line with
visited preserves in the country. The role of the Recreation Technician has the presence of snowy owls seen atop
While protecting the park from more become even more vital as Acadia considers Sargent and Cadillac Mountain as they
visitors can be a challenge, park managers implementation of the Transportation migrate. Findings from this study will
consider each visit as an investment in our Management Plan. assist park management to make decisions
public lands and a vote for the importance Because of the major changes proposed about wildlife safety communication with
of the internationally renowned landscape in this plan, there is a great need for local and out-of-state visitors as well as to
of Maine’s rocky coastline. baseline data and quality research. understand the impact of off-leash canines.
In order to better understand visitation As the Friends of Acadia Rec Tech, I Over the years, Acadia National Park has
patterns, many dedicated volunteers, will be working together with the park’s been a leader in addressing management of
rangers, and affiliated groups are working social scientist, Dr. Adam Gibson. We will outdoor recreation. The park’s significant
to gather important data. continue to study parking lot turnover cultural, natural, and recreational
Friends of Acadia’s contribution involves rates, monitor the growth and frequency of resources help set it apart as a leader
funding a nearly full-time Recreation Class 1 e-bike usage, and identify areas that within the national park system. Work
Technician (Rec Tech). remain vulnerable to congestion including done by the Rec Tech program now will
As FOA’s Rec Tech, I spend much of my bottlenecks beyond the implementation of gather critical baseline data that can help
time outdoors helping to collect data to the Transportation Management Plan that inform management strategies to improve
generate statistics about what is going on frustrate the average visitor. access to Acadia’s wonders and create
behind the scenes. Certainly, one of the more problematic opportunities for visitors to enjoy the park
On a recent morning afield, a moss- areas historically has been on Cadillac. in many new ways. �
lined stream that burbles under the road While assigned to the summit throughout
to Echo Lake Beach is my destination. the season, the Rec Tech has historically
Beech and aspen trees abound, making provided data which has helped managers
the quintessential forest scene that is my understand how the rush to see the sunrise
outside office this morning. Most visitors on Cadillac has influenced overall visitor
using the road are eager to get to the beach use. At sunrise, hundreds of vehicles cram
on one of Acadia’s beautiful inland lakes; into an area with only 157 parking spaces.
few notice the black rubber traffic counter Tardy visitors trying to make the sunrise
stretching across the pavement. tend to drive rapidly on the summit road
“Thump-thump” go the tires as the despite the posted speed limits. Around 40
weight of vehicles compress the tubing, minutes after the sunrise there’s a surge of
activating the nearby hidden counter with traffic of a different type. A steady stream
puffs of air. of bicyclists climb the 1,530 feet to the
I’m there to access the counter’s data, summit over the next several hours. These
like information contained in many others cyclists understand that the lower density
around the park, which I download onto of vehicles results in a higher quality
FOA/ASHLEY CONTI
a thumb drive. Back at park headquarters, recreational experience.
software known as TRAXPRO will generate In addition to collecting and analyzing
monthly statistics and reports for similar data during the summer months, our work
counters at Sieur de Monts Spring, Otter also includes studying how visitors are
Cliffs, and the Cadillac Summit Road. making use of Acadia during the winter. Friends of Acadia Recreation Technician Becca
The equipment atop the park’s highest The winter recreation use study will look Stanley installs a sign urging visitors to not
mountain counts not just cars, but bicycles at several sites along the groomed carriage damage vegetation near Jordan Pond House.
8 Winter 2019 Friends of Acadia JournalSuperintendent’s View
Rising to Meet the Challenges of 2020
W
ith the trees bare, and December’s significantly improved workspaces. These
first snows upon us, I start to areas are the backbone of our operations
think about the transition to a and include the trails shop, our carpentry
New Year at Acadia. The New Year is a time shop, office space for our team, and more. A
for reflection, a time to think about past major success in 2019 was that we received
accomplishments and to set goals for the construction funding to redesign these areas,
New Year. and this effort will be a major emphasis for
2019 began with difficulty, as Acadia our staff in 2020.
National Park ushered in the New Year We are also focusing on developing our
during the longest government shutdown workforce and providing them with learning
in our nation’s history. There is no doubt opportunities that will better prepare
that this was a tough time for our staff, them to meet tomorrow’s challenges. This
our visitors, and our communities. But it fall we launched the Acadia Leadership
FOA /AYTT/ASHLEY CONTI
clearly showed the important role Friends Academy, providing a six-month leadership
of Acadia and our communities play in development course through the upcoming
supporting the park. winter season for 15 park employees. These
This year was yet another busy year at employees will meet on a monthly basis and
Acadia National Park. Although summer participate in instructor-led training, such as
visitation was slightly reduced in comparison parking at Hulls Cove. crucial conversations, public speaking, and
with the previous season (and the year will Hulls Cove plays a critical role in mindful leadership. The academy provides
certainly end as the second busiest in park implementing the transportation plan, and a forum where park employees from all
history), we saw on July 5 the busiest single conceptual designs will allow us to examine aspects of our operations can discuss with
day in the park’s history. On October 13, how we can redevelop the area’s entire their colleagues the challenges they face,
a beautiful fall day, 2,600 cars drove up footprint. We will provide visitors with creating a peer-based group to support and
Cadillac Mountain—including 524 in a one- expanded parking to leave their cars behind learn from one another.
hour time span! and ride the Island Explorer. The visitor And last, but not least, we will continue
Thankfully, we completed our Transporta- center—used by 71 percent of our visitors— to focus on understanding how a changing
tion Plan in May, providing a blueprint for could become one of the signature locations climate will affect Acadia’s delicate ecosystem.
managing congestion into the future. While in Acadia, providing a place to learn about Thanks to initiatives like FOA’s Wild Acadia
the plan is completed, implementation of it Acadia’s unique ecology and its human and Second Century Campaign, we will
will take some time and will be a significant history from the Wabanki to the Rusticators, learn more about climate change and build
priority for us in the coming years. to the local stone masons that built the resiliency to adapt in the face of profound
The park’s priorities will remain unchanged. carriage roads. Conceptual designs will also ecosystem change.
We will be working to preserve the Acadia allow us to consider moving the access to No doubt 2020 will be a busy one for our
experience and implement the transportation the carriage roads to a better location within team. But I am confident that with partners
plan. This includes implementation of the the Hulls Cove footprint and eliminate the like Friends of Acadia we can rise to meet
timed entry reservation system for private steep hill that has contributed to several these challenges.
autos. This is a complicated effort, and we accidents and is a barrier for many visitors. On behalf of all of us at Acadia National
want to make sure we get it right, so we are They could allow us to consider building Park, best wishes to you and yours for a
proceeding thoughtfully and carefully. an accessible interpretive boardwalk trail bright New Year, filled with time in Acadia!
We expect to release in 2020 a prospectus on the site, complementing the indoor
for concession-operated bus tours in Acadia. museum exhibits.
This is a major part of the transportation plan Nurturing and sustaining the NPS
and will allow us to transition to smaller- workforce will remain a major priority for
sized touring buses on the Park Loop Road, us in 2020. One of the biggest expressions —Kevin Schneider
eliminating large motor coaches that cannot of this will be redesigning our maintenance
safely navigate Acadia’s narrow roadways. and headquarters campus at McFarland Hill
In 2020 we also expect to begin conceptual to ultimately provide our employees with
design for a new visitor center and expanded
Friends of Acadia Journal Winter 2019 9Acadia Insider
Compendium Contains Full List Of Acadia Rules
By Earl Brechlin
W
hile signs and other indirect mushrooms, fiddleheads, and cones from was amended to implement that directive. It
methods of behavior modifica- conifers such as pine, spruce and fir trees, allows Class I (pedal assist) e-bikes only.
tion help visitors comply with however, is illegal. In general, park officials do an annual
the rules throughout Acadia National Park, a All dogs must be on a leash no longer than review and update the list each spring.
comprehensive list of what folks can and can- six feet in length, and owners are required to According to Schneider, park officials
not do is contained in the official Superinten- clean up after their pets, regardless of location. are reticent to rely on writing tickets for
dent’s Compendium. Drone use requires a special permit as does infractions, preferring to use a blend of signs,
Residing on the park’s website, the 50 any commercial photography. And use of any individual visitor contacts, traffic control
pages of rules and regulations, along with submarines in waters under park jurisdiction devices and techniques, and other methods
supporting statements, are a sort of a Park requires special permission. to encourage voluntary compliance.
Service Pinterest page of detailed dos and Closures to protect wildlife, such as nesting Because of natural institutional pressure
don’ts. While broad federal statutes govern loons and peregrine falcons, are also spelled to erect more and more signs, Acadia has a
major violations of law, superintendents out in the compendium. special committee that must review every
throughout the National Park System need Except in emergency situations, there is a request and placement. Too many signs,
flexibility to formulate and adopt individual public notice requirement. That is most often according to Schneider, can erode the visitor
regulations in a timely, realistic, and satisfied by the park issuing a press release, experience and can be distracting to drivers.
responsive fashion. Supt. Schneider added. “Signing is only minimally effective,” explains
“The Superintendent’s Compendium allows If a new rule is apt to be controversial, Schneider. “It’s important when we do, to
for the creation of rules specifically for local or a major departure from past practice, a use positive messages such as ‘Please stay on
conditions,” Acadia Superintendent Kevin more formal procedure must be followed. trail,’” compared to ‘“Don’t leave the trail.’”
Schneider explains. “Things of a more substantive nature have to When considering amendments to the
Along with road closure timing, fee go through a rule-making process,” he says. compendium, park officials also must remain
schedules for entrance and camping, “Actually, we don’t change the rules all that mindful that sometimes adopting a closure
prohibitions on hunting and use of some frequently.” or new rule can backfire when it draws
motorboats, Acadia’s compendium covers Earlier this fall, Interior Department higher- unwanted attention to sensitive areas.
some other, less routine topics. For instance, ups dictated that electric motorized bicycles “We want to be careful not to reveal the
visitors can pick up to half a gallon of were no longer classified as motor vehicles. location of archeological sites or bird nests
blueberries per day each for personal They gave individual superintendents 30 days or bears’ dens—things of that nature,”
consumption. And, as many as ten gallons to draft rules allowing them wherever regular Schneider explains.
of apples per person can be taken. Removing bicycles are permitted. Acadia’s Compendium In Acadia, a good example is a spot where
fragile tide pool dwellers there can literally
be trampled to death. But adopting a formal
closure might also increase the visibility of
the location.
In the end, park officials decades ago
decided to simply remove mention of it from
maps as a way of reducing visitation.
According to Schneider, most decisions
involving the compendium generate a broad
philosophical discussion and ultimately,
FOA/JULIA WALKER THOMAS
need to include a good dose of common
sense. Balancing the need to protect the park
with making sure visitors have an enjoyable
experience, is sometimes difficult to do,
Schneider explains. “Personally, I don’t like
closing stuff unless we really have to.” �
Acadia National Park Law Enforcement Ranger Tim Rand uses a snowmobile to patrol on the windswept
Cadillac Mountain Summit Road.
10 Winter 2019 Friends of Acadia JournalFOA/ASHLEY CONTI
Acadia National Park visitors consult large map displays that are part of the revamped visitor center in Hulls Cove that reopened in June.
Visitor Center Redo Seeks to Bridge Gap
By Earl Brechlin
A
cadia National Park’s revamped Hulls Bar Harbor. King Construction Services of used to just echo all over the place in there,”
Cove Visitor Center opened its doors Ellsworth was the general contractor. Madell explains.
in late June and so far, both the staff The partial federal government Gone is the large, 3-D model of Mount
and the public are giving it high marks. shutdown last January and weather Desert Island that once occupied the middle
Constructed more than 50 years ago, as challenges contributed to a delay in the of the center’s lobby. “It’s been in storage
both visitor center and headquarters, the planned May reopening. for around four years now. No decision has
building’s space and design limitations have Work involved the gutting of the entire been made whether or not to possibly reuse
become increasingly difficult to deal with main floor including a small theater area. it in the future,” Madell adds.
over the years. Much as the surrounding That is now the Eastern National gift shop. Although the renovations are an
forest, recovering from the Great Fire of Restrooms were expanded and access to improvement, the center still suffers
1947, has grown and obscured the once- them created from the outside to allow from a major lack of space for exhibits or
panoramic view of Frenchman Bay from their use by visitors when the main lobby interactive displays. Officials are exploring
the center’s lobby, Acadia’s popularity has isn’t open. the possibility of building an entirely new,
overtopped the facility as well. In the previous configuration, visitors ground-level visitor center on the site.
“For visitation of 3.5 million it is neither were required to form a single line to get That, however, could take several years to
the right size nor configuration,” says park information or purchase a park pass. materialize, Madell notes.
Assistant Superintendent Michael Madell. Often the line curled around the lobby, out As part of the park’s transportation
To begin with, he explains, the center the front door and across the draw bridge- plan (see related story on page 14), other
was built on the side of a hill. The main like entrance porch. major changes also are contemplated
access path includes 52 steps from the The new layout separates the two for the visitor center area, including the
primary parking lot. That forces those with processes resulting in shorter waits, construction of hundreds of additional
disabilities to use a rear door to be able to especially for return visitors just looking to parking spaces and expanded space for
access the building’s elevator. Parking is get a pass. “It seems to be working better,” Island Explorer bus operations.
extremely limited near that entrance. Madell says. “During peak times, the lines The recent renovations, while definitely
Design and planning for the renovations may still get long.” an upgrade, are not intended to be a final
began more than two years ago. Work Other changes include filling stations for solution, Madell explains. Rather, they are
started right after the center closed last visitors’ reusable water bottles, brochure aimed at “bridging the gap between the old
fall. The lead architectural firm for the racks, and interpretive displays. Additional facility and when a new one can be built.”
project was VHB of South Portland, which insulation was installed and sound- He adds, “It isn’t everything we need there,
worked with Fraser Associates Architects of deadening materials added. “The sound but something had to be done.” �
Friends of Acadia Journal Winter 2019 11Acadia’s Coat of Many Colors
Photographs by Ashley L. Conti
I
n a place where autumn’s splendor impresses with every turn of the head, the east
face of Champlain Mountain in Acadia National Park seen from a marsh along the
Schooner Head Road (bottom) is one of the island’s quintessential scenes. But along
with sweeping vistas, Acadia provides more intimate glimpses of nature’s coat of many fall
colors, including along the Hemlock Path near Sieur de Monts Spring (upper right) and
near the Jesup Trail (upper left).
12 Winter 2019 Friends of Acadia JournalTo see photo galleries and order reprints of scenic and event photos taken by Friends of Acadia’s Digital Media Team, please visit www.friendsofacadia.SmugMug.com. Friends of Acadia Journal Winter 2019 13
Transportation Plan Inches Ahead IN NOMINE
We gratefully acknowledge gifts received in honor of:
By Earl Brechlin Perry Albert and Regina Catherine
Michael Chateaunef Lennox*
Maddy August and Sarah Logue
Matt Present Laura Mazzenga
Julie Banzhaf-Stone Dan McKay
A
fter more than two years of hard be lifted and put into Acadia,” he adds. and Steve Stone Jean Owen
Phyllis Beallor* Thomas H. Pendergast Jr.
work, a formal transportation plan Eventually the park will issue formal Marie and Penn and C
aimed at easing congestion, traffic, requests for proposals for the actual Gerry Berlin Heather Peterson
and environmental damage from growing reservation system. Megan and Charlotte and
Rick Bourke Bob Pulitzer
visitation was finally adopted for Acadia Acadia will issue a prospectus in 2020 Earl Brechlin Emily Radkowski
National Park last May. It features major for several concession operators to handle Cameron Robert Rebecca, Morgan, and
changes in parking areas, mandates that all buses within the park. Plans call for a Brown Bar Harbor Villager
Carol Bult and Motel Staff
concession operators use smaller buses, reduction in the current maximum bus Lili Pew Beth Rendeiro and
expands the Island Explorer shuttle length of 50 feet, down to 38 feet. Christine and Joseph Steven DePaul
bus system, and allows visitors to have Operators using 15-passenger vans Bob Clark John D. Rockefeller Jr.*
reservations to visit the busiest areas of the and smaller vehicles will continue to be Gail and Ham Clark Sally and Ted Rorer
Donna Eacho Jack Russell
park such as Ocean Drive, Jordan Pond, managed via the commercial operator’s Erin and Chris Force Donna Shurilla
and the summit of Cadillac Mountain permit system. Harris Goldberg The Sprowls Family
during peak times. It took two years Another ongoing initiative involves Anne Green Martha Stewart
Becky and Levi Stiles
of talking with numerous stakeholders, planning for better data connectivity in the Doug Heden Frank Stuart*
working with planners, and holding public park to allow the necessary “smart” systems Jason Hilkovitch at Daniel Taroli
hearings to get to the point where a final used by equipment and mobile devices to Plum Lake Library Jane Ingraham
Priscilla and Jack Thomas
decision could be made. be more reliable. Hirschenhofer Nathan Vincent
Now comes the hard part. In order for the plan to work, major Lisa Horsch Clark Melissa and
According to John Kelly, management changes in infrastructure also will be needed. Susan Howard* Reeve Waud
assistant at the park, officials are currently “The first big piece is the Hulls Cove Islesford Historical Kim Wentworth
Museum The Wild Gardens of
working on a broad number of initiatives Visitor Center,” Kelly explains. The parking Nicole and Acadia Volunteers
to bring that plan to fruition. “People ask area there will need to be enlarged. Right Michael Johnson Jack Zettler*
what has to happen first; well, everything lane parking along Ocean Drive could then Ruby Johnson Dorothy Zucker*
Sharon Johnson
has to happen first,” Kelly says. be prohibited. The park is also exploring the Lydia Kimball June1, 2019 –
Last year, the U.S. Department of possibility of a new Visitors Center as well. Brenda and September, 2019
Transportation’s Volpe Center completed (See related story on page 11). Peter Kimble *Deceased
Doug Lake Jr.
a year-long study of the Island Explorer Likewise, the Gateway Center in Trenton Amanda Lakomy and
System that will help inform the process. will need to be completed. “The state has David Solomon
Once reservations are required for the really engaged us to build out the last
busiest areas, the demand to use buses to phase,” Kelly says. He continued that a
access those areas is projected to jump. finalized design for more parking and a
Down East Transportation, operators visitor center is almost ready to go.
of the Explorer, have engaged Bar Harbor “The challenge now is funding,” he
transportation consultant Tom Crikelair, continues. The total estimated cost is $18-
who designed the original system, through a $20 million. The Park Service has some
FOA-funded study to determine what form in reserve, there is the possibility of $5
that expansion might take. million in bond funds from Maine, and
“There are already plans to expand the other sources are being explored.
fleet of buses by five,” explains Kelly. After the Eagle Lake carriage roads are
Officials hope revenue from the rehabbed next year, an equipment and
reservation system will underwrite some materials staging area at Liscomb Pit will
capital expenses and pay for the expansion be rebuilt as a parking lot for as many as
of the Explorer. 125 cars. Eventually a new lot would need
FOA/AIMEE BEAL CHURCH
Earlier this year, park officials put out to be sited and built near Acadia Mountain
a “request for information,” and met with on Route 102. Roadside parking would be
potential vendors of reservation systems. banned in both those areas.
“It’s a learning tool for us,” says Kelly. “So
continued on page 30
far we haven’t seen anything that can just
14 Winter 2019 Friends of Acadia JournalAcadia Is Ideal Winter Classroom
By Lynn Fantom
W
inter is College of the Atlantic but Dr. Ressel also shares his zeal for winter combines forests, wetlands, and freshwater
(COA) Professor Steve Ressel’s with “lifelong learners” who visit Mount lakes and streams. And because the state
favorite season. But that hasn’t Desert Island on the Road Scholar program, stocks ponds in the area with trout, you
always been the case. formerly known as Elderhostel. might see signs of river otters—if not the
He grew up in southeastern Pennsylvania After a presentation in October, Joan actual animals themselves.
where, he explains, the winters are, well, Fulrath of Scottsdale, Arizona, raved about To look for mink activity, he says, follow
“wimpy,” compared to Maine. “his passion, knowledge, intensity.” the Hadlock Brook Trail up to Sargent
Now, as the holder of the Kim M. Mountain. The deep spruce-fir forest is the
Wentworth Chair in Environmental Studies habitat of porcupines and small perching
“Snow reveals the gossip of
at COA in Bar Harbor, Dr. Ressel shares birds. At the summit, search the skies and
his favorite aspects of winter—surprising the night,” says Dr. Ressel, wind-blown drifts for snowy owls while you
activity under the ice of a frozen pond, sharing a sentiment of think about how the elevation—more wind,
soft afternoon light creating lengthening less snow—represents a more challenging
shadows, and the absence of pesky insects— naturalist Edwin Way Teale. climate for many hardy organisms.
with his students in a winter ecology class. In art and in science, some of the greatest
And, what better place to use as a living The age of his students is irrelevant. All wonders cannot be heard or seen … just
laboratory than Acadia National Park? soon begin to share in Dr. Ressel’s obvious imagined. And one of the greatest aspects
Nearly 85 percent of class time is spent enthusiasm for the subject. of winter is that it allows those who ponder
outside. With its snow-laced spruce In his office tucked under the eaves of its challenges to imagine the unimaginable,
and fir woods, looking-glass lakes, and COA’s George B. Dorr Museum of Natural Dr. Ressel says. How animals survive winter
gusty barren mountaintops, Acadia offers History, wearing jeans and hiking boots, sometimes simply defies logic.
an environment that “seals the deal for Dr. Ressel seems almost wistful for the Take the golden-crowned kinglet, for
students,” he explains. outdoors as he shares the best locales for example. Stripped of its feathers, it is about
The winter course has been part of the winter studies in Acadia. He cites the Witch the size of a little finger. Not only does it
COA undergraduate curriculum since 1994, Hole Pond carriage road loop, because it lose heat faster than larger animals, but it
PHOTO COURTESY OF STEVE RESSEL
COA Professor Steve Ressel, center, talks with his Winter Ecology course students during a field trip in Acadia National Park.
Friends of Acadia Journal Winter 2019 15Winter classroom, continued
eats insects, not seeds. Yet, it survives winter
when insects disappear.
profoundly fascinating world—even if you
do not see an animal during each outing. As
Acadia’s Winter
A winter adaptation of another
nonmigratory bird, the black-capped
nature writer Margaret Renkl says, “What
lies just in front of me is not all there is.”
Classroom
chickadee, is similarly unimaginable. In A key step is to separate these ecology
the fall, its hippocampus, the area of the treks from recreational activities. Plan on
brain responsible for spatial recognition taking more time. You miss things when
and short-term memory, increases in size— “you’re whizzing by on cross-country skis or
helping the chickadee to remember where ice skating,” Dr. Ressel warns.
it has hidden seeds. The same increase in Instead, put on snowshoes and embark
brain size is true of some small mammals. upon “careful, attentive observation.” Look
Mice, voles, and shrews also have for tracks. Beyond identifying them, follow
specialized tissue on their backs that the tracks to gain insight about the animal’s
throws off metabolic heat. It also increases activities. Did it take a sudden turn? Do the
in the fall and diminishes in the spring, tracks disappear and re-emerge?
notes Dr. Ressel. Why?
As a zoologist specializing in comparative Think about the subnivean zone
animal physiology, Dr. Ressel is fascinated between the bottom of the snowpack and
with such changes, as well as the behavioral the surface of the ground. It’s a valuable
adaptations animals make in colder weather. retreat for mice, voles, and shrews, fleeing
For example, follow the tracks of white- both the cold and predators.
tailed deer and then you might suddenly In addition to tracks, the surface of the
see a deep depression in the snow. The snow might also reveal a story about last
deer has made an executive decision that it night’s dinner: the fish scales of a trout eaten
costs more energy to continue looking for by a ravenous river otter or the leftovers of a
food than the energy it would get from that pinecone devoured like corn-on-the-cob by
food. So, it “plops” down. But note where a red squirrel.
the deer chooses — not in areas of birch, “Snow reveals the gossip of the night,” says
but in stands of more protective spruce and Dr. Ressel, sharing a sentiment of naturalist
fir trees, which offer sheltering boughs and Edwin Way Teale. �
thick trunks that radiate heat.
Once such facts enter your awareness, LYNN FANTOM is a retired advertising
they change how you perceive winter. agency owner and freelance writer. She
So, how might you experience some of divides her time between homes in
the magic of winter yourself? Somesville and New York City.
Dr. Ressel starts by sharing some practical
precautions. Take steps to ensure your
comfort and safety (especially if venturing
onto ice), and then brace yourself for a
Acadia Winter Track QUIZ
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v
2
6 inches
4
1
3 5
v
16 Winter 2019 Friends of Acadia JournalYou can also read
