Aglooka Advisor - John Rae Society

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Aglooka Advisor - John Rae Society
Aglooka Advisor
Winter 2019
Issue No. 9

                  1
Aglooka Advisor

                     Winter 2019 Issue No.9

President’s Report                                   page 4

From the Orcadian Archives 24th July 1869            page 6

Charles Dickens and John Rae: article by Eric Summers page 7

Corporate member: Birsay Energy                      page 11

A Feast of Forage at the Orkney Science Festival:
article by Sigrid Appleby                            page 12
Why do people join the John Rae Society?             page 14

Corporate member: Stockans Oatcakes                  page 15

Memories of Gjoa Haven: by Pat Garwasiuk             page 16

Hall of Clestrain: archival training report
article by Dr Sarah-Jane Gibbon                      page 17

John Rae September weekend                           page 20

Volunteers needed                                    page 21

Co-op cheque for the John Rae Society                page 22

Corporate member: Skara Books                        page 22

John Rae Birthday Draw                               page 23

Corporate member: Kristin Linklater Voice Centre     page 24

Corporate member: Adventure Canada                   page 25

Corporate member: RICS                               page 26

Membership update                                    page 27

Forthcoming events                                   page 27

Photo on front cover by James Grieve

                                   2
Patrons

                        Dr Peter St John, The Earl of Orkney

                               Ken McGoogan, Author

                         Ray Mears, Author & TV Presenter

                       Bill Spence, Lord Lieutenant of Orkney

                                  Sir Michael Palin

                               Magnus Linklater OBE

                                Board of Trustees

                         (in alphabetical order by surname)

 Andrew Appleby — Jim Chalmers — Anna Elmy — Neil Kermode — Fiona Lettice—
                       Mark Newton — Norman Shearer

                                    Committee

                            President — Andrew Appleby

                           Chairman — Norman Shearer

                         Honorary Secretary — Anna Elmy

                        Honorary Treasurer — Fiona Lettice

                   Webmaster and Social Media — Mark Newton

                       Membership Secretary — Fiona Gould

                                Registered Office

                               The John Rae Society

                   7 Church Road, Stromness, Orkney KW16 3BA

                              Tel: 01856 851414

                     e-mail: info@johnraesociety.com
                          Newsletter Editor — Fiona Gould

The views expressed in this newsletter are those of the authors and not necessarily
those of the Editor or the Board of Trustees of the John Rae Society
                                         3
President’s Report                     Perspex. This repulsed the
                                       pervading pigeons, and the
I am delighted that we had
                                       Casey Gang cleared the final
several very successful open
                                       ordure produced by these
days. These were kindly held           perching avians.
in Ivan and Jean’s garage: our
stalwart visitors welcomed             The Hall is now drying out and
refreshments during oft-Arctic         considered saved. Had the roof
conditions. A goodly pro-              blown away in the winter
portion of these joined the            storms, which was most likely,
society.                               we would have lost the floors
                                       and much valuable detail. I
It was our distinct aim to raise
                                       consider the works to have
the remaining sum of around            been completed just in time!
£12,000 to complete payment
for The Hall of Clestrain. With        The Co-Op shops in Orkney
raffles, the John Rae Birthday         adopted The John Rae Society
Lottery and kind donations this        as one of their worthy causes
sum was almost reached.                for this year. (See separate
                                       report later in this newsletter.)
A    very   generous      Texan
gentleman, Bill Miller, secured        March saw the commencement
the purchase at the last minute        of the Arctic Return expedition.
with a donation of £9,500. This        This was an amazing feat of
gave us over and above our             endurance      by    the    four
needs. The final sum was               explorers. Sadly, two had to
presented to Ivan and Jean             withdraw from the expedition
Cragie at the draw of the              some way through. We are so
Lottery, thus securing the             grateful to Garry Tutte and
property to JRS.                       Frank Wolfe, who didn’t make
                                       it, for their bravery. David
The approaching winter storms
                                       Reid, leader and Richard Smith
threatened. Paddy Casey, of
                                       completed the expedition that
Casey Construction, agreed to
                                       followed the route that John
step in and secure the roof,
                                       Rae took when he learned the
stop the constant leaks and
                                       fate of the Franklin Expedition
cover the windows with clear
                                       and also discovered the final

                                   4
link in the North West                 so well for us. On open days
Passage. Please go to                  we can supply teas and cakes
www.arcticreturn.com for the           and have retail space. We are
full update.                           immensely grateful to Ivan
                                       and Jean for the use of their
Corporate       Membership.            garage in our earlier stages.
Minimum £500 fee, then
£100.00 per year. This has             Dr. Barbara Rae R.A. gave us
now been taken up firstly by           an Inuit model kayak, which
Adventure Canada, then RICS,           actually formed part of John
Birsay Energy Trust, Kristin           Rae’s personal collection. This
Linklater    Voice   Centre,           is displayed in our showcase of
Skarabooks and Stockan’s               other Inuit artefacts.
Oatcakes. We are actively
                                       JRS is delighted to announce
seeking   further  corporate
                                       that we have engaged a
members.
                                       Project    Manager.     Sandra
The    Cuminga      Trust   has        Deans has been appointed to
generously    supported      our       this post. She has been fully
archaeological activities. They        engaged in researching and
are very impressed with the            applying for grant aid to make
high     standard     of     the       our projects entirely success-
interesting work we carried            ful.
out. They have promised to
                                       Visitor figures have increased
continue funding us. The latest
                                       time on time on our open days,
was an archive day, where we
                                       proving the popularity and
discovered the completion
                                       support that JRS has for its
details of The Hall of Clestrain
                                       ambitions. All of these visitors
on 13th September 1769. This
                                       applaud our aims to create The
being so, we began planning a
                                       John Rae International Arctic
celebration   to    mark     the
                                       Centre, which could become
occasion.
                                       The Gateway to The Arctic.
In May we purchased a
                                       The Orkney Science Festival
portacabin to use as a
                                       promoted a John Rae Week-
temporary     Visitor    Centre.
                                       end. A tremendous foraged
Casey Construction realized
                                       dinner produced by inter-
the inadequacy of it and lent us
                                       nationally renowned    chefs
a far superior cabin for as long
                                       made an admirable repast at
as we need it. This has worked
                                   5
The Orphir Community Centre.          taken with cardiac arrest late
Sam Britten of Orkney Craft           in September. At his memorial
Vinegar led the policy of             service £1,475 was raised for
natural foods. Reflecting what        the John Rae Society. This was
was available in Orkney’s             sad and sudden news. If
Neolithic and in John Rae’s           anyone would like to add to
time,    an     amazing    and        that sum in his memory, then
memorable evening was the             please do. Our thoughts are
grand result. JRS had a very          with Anne.
profitable raffle and Highland
                                      Andrew Appleby. President
Park served special whisky at
                                      John Rae Society
the event. The following
afternoon a programme of                               ***
Arctic and Foraging talks were
presented. Maria Pia Casarini         From The Orcadian
spoke of Sir John Franklin’s          Archives
sad exploits. In the interval         Saturday, July 24, 1869
she cut The Hall of Clestrain’s
                                      ANOTHER ORKNEY PRIZE
250th birthday cake. Baked by
                                      WINNER AT WIMBLEDON —
Harray Stores, this was a most
                                      We are glad to be able to
welcome occasion.
                                      announce that Dr Rae has
Jane Hamilton has given us a          carried off two valuable prizes
special Inuit-made covered            at Wimbledon, namely £25 for
bowl    from     shiny    black       the    greater     number     of
mudstone. Being fragile, it is        cartoons (67) at 200 yards
damaged. We intend having it          with the Enfield rifle: also the
professionally restored for our       1st Anglo-Belgian prize at £25
permanent collection.                 with a score of 35 points at 200
                                      and 500 yards, five shots at
A sincere thank you to our            each range.
amazing volunteers for their
tremendous help. I would like                          ***
to mention the young Duncan           Last year Eric Summers, a JRS
McNeish whose youthful skills         member and editor of Little Doric,
make our laptop till work so          the newsletter of the Aberdeen branch
efficiently.                          of the Dickens Fellowship, asked us for
                                      an article about the John Rae Society,
                                      which     we    supplied.    He    has
Finally, I wish to record that
                                      reciprocated with the following article
we lost Ian McIntyre. He was          about Dickens and John Rae. (Editor)
                                  6
Charles Dickens & John Rae              minedly filling every un-
                                        forgiving minute. Along with
Perhaps it is a little bold for a
                                        much of Victorian Britain he
member       of   the    Dickens
                                        was fascinated by the polar
Fellowship to submit an article
                                        regions and with his close
for the John Rae’s Society’s
                                        friend Wilkie Collins wrote,
journal.    For many Charles
                                        produced and acted in a highly
Dickens is something of a
                                        successful Arctic drama called
villain in the John Rae story.
                                        The Frozen Deep. It was while
As a great admirer of both
                                        this play was being performed
men, however, I do believe
                                        in Manchester that he first
that the dispute between them
                                        encountered and fell passion-
has been exaggerated and
                                        ately in love with Ellen Ternan,
should not be allowed to
                                        a young actress more than
distort the picture we have of
                                        twenty years his junior. This
both.
                                        was in 1857 and it led
                                        eventually to the break-up of
Charles Dickens is a writer
                                        his marriage in 1858. Arctic
closely     associated     with
                                        exploration      had       many
London, but in fact he had
                                        casualties.
strong Scottish connections.
His wife was Scottish, his first
                                        A few years earlier Dickens’s
newspaper      employer     was
                                        interest in the poles had taken
Scottish,   his   first  major
                                        the form of a meeting with
reporting assignment was to
                                        another attractive and still
Edinburgh, he was a great
                                        relatively young lady. It was
admirer of Sir Walter Scott , he
                                        in November 1854 that he was
knew his Burns and quoted
                                        invited to the home of Lady
him in his novels and he was
                                        Franklin. She was distressed
fond of whisky calling one
                                        by     John    Rae’s    recently
particularly fine bottle ‘Mary
                                        published     report   on   the
Morrison’,    another    Burns
                                        disappearance of her husband,
allusion.
                                        Sir John, on his expedition to
                                        find the North-West Passage.
Dickens   led   a   singularly
                                        Rae had visited her but had
energetic life having a huge
                                        been rebuffed. She main-
range of interests, deter-
                                    7
tained that he should never             important to go back to the
have written that everyone              original articles that appeared
was dead and that there had             in Household Words.
been a resort to cannibalism
and she would not listen to his         On Saturday December 3rd
defence that he had only                1854 Dickens wrote about ‘The
recorded what he had been               Lost Arctic Voyages’ in an
told and that his report had            article which he continued a
been for the Admiralty. It had          week later. Reading it one is
not been his choice to have it          shocked by the violently racist
in the public domain.                   language directed at the
                                        ‘esquimaux’ and the naivety in
She could not be appeased and           believing that ‘Englishmen’
was now recruiting the most             were incapable of the sordid
famous novelist in the world,           behaviour ascribed to them by
who was also editing a weekly           Rae. Sadly Dickens’s racial
journal Household Words, to             attitudes would have been
mount a defence of her                  shared by the majority of the
husband’s honour.                       British public at the time - we
                                        are all prisoners of the times in
Dickens was intrigued and had           which we live - but ironically
his     secretary     order    up       naivety is his main charge
newspaper cuttings on the               against Rae who, Dickens
story. He was persuaded that            wrote,     should     not   have
Rae had got it wrong and                believed what he was told by
decided to pick up his                  ‘savages’.
formidable pen in support of
Lady Franklin’s case. Many              But note that Dickens does not
John Rae supporters have                criticise Rae for reporting what
been       appalled     by    the       he had been told or for
destruction of Rae’s reputation         hurrying home with his news.
that followed and have found it         Indeed he says Rae was right
difficult to forgive Dickens.           to do so. It was the Admiralty,
                                        he argues, that was wrong to
But is this fair? To assess what        release Rae’s report.
Dickens really did, it is

                                    8
Important too is the fact that            That my opinions remain
Dickens gave Rae a right of               exactly the same as they were
reply, which he did in a                  when my report to the
powerful article published on             Admiralty was written, may be
23rd December. At the start               inferred from all I have now
Rae comes across as rather                stated. That twenty or twenty-
intimidated    by     Dickens’s           five Esquimaux could, for two
reputation as a writer:                   months together, continue to
                                          repeat the same story without
I am aware of the difficulties I          variation in any material point,
have to encounter in replying             and adhere firmly to it, in spite
to the article on the ‘Lost Arctic        of    all   sorts   of    cross-
Voyagers.’ That the author of             questioning, is to me the
that article is a writer of very          clearest    proof    that    the
great ability and practice, and           information they gave me was
that he makes the best use of             founded on fact. That the
both to prove his opinions, is            ‘white     men’     were     not
very evident…To oppose this, I            murdered by the natives, but
have nothing but a small                  that they died of starvation, is,
amount of practical knowledge             to my mind, equally beyond a
of the question at issue, with a          doubt.
few facts to support my views
and opinions; but, I can only             Writing from Stromness, and
throw them together in a very             certainly an angry man, Rae
imperfect and unconnected                 also had his say about
form,    as     I   have     little       Franklin’s sailors who, Dickens
experience in writing…                    had claimed, knew how to
                                          behave like gentlemen:
As is evident, Rae need not
have been so modest.       He             Much stress is laid on the
writes very well and to his               moral character and the
credit takes not one backward             admirable discipline of the
step from what he believed to             crews of Sir John Franklin’s
have happened to the Franklin             ships.    What their state of
expedition:                               discipline may have been I
                                          cannot say, but their conduct

                                      9
at the very last British port            At the end of 1854, in spite of
they entered (Stromness) was             protests from Lady Franklin,
not such as to make those who            the Admiralty called off the
knew it consider them very               search for Franklin.       The
deserving of the high eulogium           Crimean War was now a big
passed     upon     them     in          distraction.   What is also
Household Words.                         forgotten is that Rae did
                                         receive his reward money, of
At the end of his piece,                 which he gave £2000.00 to his
however, Rae is generous in              men. This was in June 1856.
thanking Dickens for letting             That was only two years after
him    defend    himself   in            his report.     Was that an
Dickens’s own journal:                   excessively long time to wait?
                                         Surely it was prudent not to
In conclusion, let me remark,            hand over immediately a large
that I fully appreciate the kind,        sum     of   money     without
courteous,      and    flattering        checking on the veracity of the
manner in which my name is               claim.
mentioned by the writer on the
subject of the lost Arctic               What Rae did not get was
Voyagers.                                proper     recognition   -    a
                                         knighthood and a statue - and
Dickens   of    course    was            that may have been less to do
unpersuaded that he had got it           with Dickens and more to do
wrong, and in that regard Rae            with Rae himself being seen as
was just one of many who                 not behaving as an English
failed to change the great               gentleman      should.  Unlike
author’s mind on a range of              Franklin, he had gone native in
issues.                                  the Arctic, and had left his
                                         piano at home!
So, the two were in dispute but
had rather more mutual                   It is unfortunate that Charles
respect on display than is               Dickens and John Rae, to the
generally acknowledged. And              best of our knowledge, never
did    Dickens’s   intervention          met. They shared a love of
really change anything?                  literature, an obsession with

                                    10
the     Arctic   regions    and
tremendous physical energy.
They might well have got on
rather well. But if the fact is
that they remained distant
from each other, then perhaps
in 2019, as the 150th
anniversary of Dickens’s death
                                        cover huge distances in Arctic
approaches (2020), as John
                                        conditions, coupled with his
Rae ’s achievements are
                                        ability to live off the land which
increasingly recognised by a
                                        made him an infinitely better
wider public, and as we have            and more successful explorer
the tantalising prospect of             than          his         forbears.
their respective homes —                We think to restore the Hall of
Gad’s Hill in Kent and Clestrain        Clestrain and combine it with
Hall in Orkney — being one day          an exhibition of John Rae’s life
opened to visitors, perhaps we          will be an unusual and unique
should      set    aside     the        tourist attraction which will
regrettable dispute that arose          draw in visitors from all over
between them and focus on               the world, especially Canada.
the astonishing achievements            This is the type of tourism
of these two towering figures           Orkney needs. This is why we
of the nineteenth century.              took          up         Corporate
                                        membership.
Eric Summers                            Birsay Energy is an all
                                        Orcadian owned company set
Secretary, Aberdeen Branch
                                        up in 2009 to take advantage
of the Dickens Fellowship
                                        of one of Orkney’s biggest
                                        assets, wind, to generate
           ***
                                        electricity using a wind energy
Corporate Member: Birsay                converter.
Energy
                                        We want to support Orkney
We have a deep respect and              enterprise, which is what we
admiration for John Rae                 have done in this instance.
because of his stamina and
endurance enabling him to               David Wallace

                                                       ***
                                   11
A Feast of Forage : at the               following: Starter:   Orkney
Orkney Science Festival                  scallops with lentil miso,
                                         radish,   turnip, elderberry,
                                         capers and pepper dulce.
One of the threads weaving
through this year’s Orkney
International Science Festival           Main course: Shin of Beef or
was the theme of Foraging.               was it auroch? With neap,
                                         onion, barley, bone marrow
                                         and garlic. The vegetables
The Neolithic Feast held in
                                         were from Wheems Organic
Orphir Community Hall on
                                         Farm, South Ronaldsay and
6thSeptember was organized
                                         the   meat   from   Craigie’s
and presented to us by Andrew
                                         Butcher.
Appleby, President of the JRS
and Chef Sam Britten, with, as
the programme stated ‘a menu
of Orkney Fare that’s been
foraged, fished, hunted and
grown’.

There was seating for over 100
people and the hall was full of
expectant ticket holders who
arrived in good time. The
tables were laid out with
Andrew’s         specially-made             Photo by Dr Maria Pia Casarini
wood-fired     pottery.     There
were 5 items for each person,            Pudding: caramelized Orkney
so it was a great amount of              cream    with    Meadowsweet
pottery that after the firing had        vinegar (produced by the
been treated with beeswax                Orkney       Craft     Vinegar
and given a polish. They                 Company, which is now Sam’s
looked and felt just right. The          successful business) decorated
tables were covered with                 with toasted oats sprinkled on
butter muslin and decorated              top.
with wild flowers. Cutlery
made from wood, though                   There was also plenty of
modern looking, also felt right.         Sourdough bread, served in
                                         brown paper bags, made by
Chef Sam certainly knows how             Eviedale Bakery and the chef’s
to make the most of available            handmade      butter.     This
ingredients and produced the             brought back memories of
                                    12
Auntie Bridie’s home-churned          Sam Britten giving a talk between
butter. Strong, salty, proper         courses
butter!

All helped along the way by
Sam’s Honey Mead made with
Orkney honey and ‘chasers’ of
Highland Park’s new Valfather
whisky. Jugs of cold water
flavoured   with mint and
cucumber accompanied the
meal.                                   Photo by JohnPeterWelburn ABIPP

Several of the fellow diners          much indigestion. Do we
gathered   some      of   the         actually develop a natural
marrowbones and intended to           lactose intolerance which we
make something with them.             then ignore? Steve Webster
Maybe the ancients did similar        was presenting these ideas.
things? A bone from a feast,
taken home and placed as a            A Feast would not be complete
memory to give good luck.             without music and the whole
                                      event was accompanied by
Between courses various folk          Kate Fletcher, Corwen Broch
who were giving talks during          and David Griffith, all dressed
the Science Festival spoke to         in home-spun textiles and
us of Foraging and Making,            home- sewn soft leather,
using the Old Ways to survive;        playing on a variety of
of Neolithic feasts previously        instruments made from all
attended (in present time and         sorts!
of how, even in Mesolithic
times,      humans      might
sometimes have over-used the
resources available to them
and of the natural lactose of
mammals. Think about it —
mammals start living off milk,
then they are weaned, and yet
humans continue to drink milk
and wonder why they get so
                                      Photo by Dr Maria Pia Casarini

                                 13
Cows’ horn, cows’ head,                 ancient folk, and a feast such
jawbone, a huge shell, scallop          as this one in Orphir can help
shells (turn them round and             to give a person of today a
rub the corrugated sides                taste of those past times.
together and you get the
sound of castanets.                     Sigrid Appleby: an edited
                                        and embellished version of an
And finally, not forgetting the         account in Orkney News by
John Rae Society’s involve-             Bernie Bell.
ment in putting this event
together, to round off the                             ***
evening,       Hugh     Halcro-
Johnston proposed a toast, in           Why do people join the
Highland Park whisky, in                John Rae Society?
Highland Park glasses, to the
250th anniversary of the                Sometimes when people take out
building    of   the  Hall   of         membership ‘out of the blue’ I ask
Clestrain, which was originally         them why they decided to join. Two
built for the Honeyman family.          recent members kindly replied and
                                        have given me permission to quote
This was very fitting, as Mr            them. Here is an extract from Neil
Halcro-Johnston is a descend-           Ferguson’s response.(Editor)
ant of the Honeyman family.
                                        My interest in John Rae was
Attending such an event as              kindled a number of years ago
this can encourage people to            by reading George Mackay
learn about, then get out and           Brown’s collections of his
about collecting the wild               weekly pieces in “The
goodies which abound, then              Orcadian” and by visiting the
use      those       ingredients        Stromness museum when in
imaginatively     to    produce         Orkney on holiday. A visit to
healthy, fresh, interesting and         the book shop in the Skara
economical meals. It can also           Brae visitor centre led to the
take us back in time to when            discovery of “Fatal Passage”
that kind of foraging will have         and I suppose it all
been a vital addition to other          mushroomed from there. Rae
foodstuff available. They also          is still my main interest in
used herbs and salt to                  terms of Arctic exploration
preserve food for winter and            and that led to an interest in
leaner times. In his Skara              the Franklin expedition of
books Andrew describes with             1845 and the ramifications of
relish the feastings of the             that. It has also led to an

                                   14
interest in Arctic exploration                behold I came across you. Of
in general and in the search                  course I just had to join!
for the Northwest Passage in
particular.
                                              Membership Secretary
My imagination was kindled
by reading of Ken McGoogan’s
                                                           ***
journey from Gjoa Haven to
the site on Boothia Peninsula
where John Rae first saw that                     Corporate Member:
the strait remained free of ice                 Stockan’s Oatcakes Ltd
for part of the year and that
King William Island was an
island and not part of Boothia
Peninsula. (As a result Neil
booked a place on a Hurtigruten
cruise this August so as to be able to
stand on the same place Rae did
when he identified the last ‘missing
piece’ of the puzzle of the North-West
passage.)

                ***

Nick Collis Bird wrote:
                                              John Rae was a renowned
                                              Orcadian who accomplished
You ask what prompted me to                   great things in the mapping of
join the JRS? I’ve always been                the northern territories of
interested in Polar exploration.              Canada. By integrating with
In fact Edward Adrian Wilson                  the native people and copying
was a relative of mine, and                   their   methods     he   made
was with Scott’s expedition                   remarkable journeys in a
where he died in 1912.                        hugely inhospitable climate.

Franklin was a hero to me until
I read Fatal Passage by Ken                   Stockan’s Oatcakes are packed
McCoogan. I’d never even                      full of nutritious wholegrain
heard of John Rae. I thought                  oats, linked to numerous
‘There really ought to be a                   health benefits. As a high-
society   to   promote     this               fibre, low GI grain, oats work
amazing man’ and lo and                       to slow digestion and keep you
                                              feeling fuller for longer.
                                         15
It wouldn’t be at all surprising        on the land,        sitting in
if John Rae’s prodigious feats          qamutiks being pulled by
were fuelled by a diet high in          snowmobiles,      which    was
oats (if not oatcakes…..).              pretty cold as they were there
                                        at the beginning of May. They
Stewart Crichton                        slept in tents and were eating
                                        arctic char (which they fished
Memories of Gjoa Haven                  for) and caribou. They were

With keen interest I followed
the blogs from Arctic Return to
Gjoa    Haven      and    must
congratulate      the     team
members who completed the
route John Rae took, especially
David and Richard who really
had to battle the elements. I
was sorry that Frank and Garry
could not complete the trip. I
                                        offered seal, but declined!
was pleased that when they
                                        There are really good carvers
arrived in Edmonton on the
                                        in Ghoa Haven and everyone
way home, someone had put
                                        came back with some.
up a sign saying ‘Arctic Return
was here!’
                                        That was a rather long time
                                        ago, as my daughter is now 54
Ghoa Haven has a special
                                        years old!
meaning to me. When my
daughter was in grade 9
(about 16 yrs old ) her school          Pat Garwasiuk
arranged for a few pupils to go
on an Arctic exchange into                              ***
Ghoa Haven . One of the Inuit
girls stayed with us and all of         The following article, by Dr Sarah Jane
the other pupils stayed at              Gibbon was accompanied by a list of
                                        the information found on the Archive
other places in Edmonton. We
                                        Day incorporated into a timeline for
took them horseback riding              the Hall of Clestrain, as well as a
and to the mountains where              detailed report of work carried out by
there are lots of trees! On             the Orkney Research centre for
their return to Ghoa Haven our          Archaeology (ORCA)at Clestrain. Sadly
children stayed with Inuit              we do not have the space to print them
                                        here but you will find them on the JRS
families. They were taken out
                                        website. Editor
                                   16
Hall of Clestrain

Archival Training
Workshop

Summary Report
Dr Sarah Jane Gibbon

                                      Figure 2: Some of the 17
                                      workshop attendees (ORCA)

                                      The workshop was attended by
                                      17 individuals all keen to help
                                      research the Hall of Clestrain.
                                      Due to the nature of the
                                      workshop, two ORCA staff
Figure 1: Newhouse, Stenness
Screenshot from CANMORE               were present to give those in
                                      attendance personal guidance
An Archival Training Workshop         with their research. Attendees’
was held in the Orkney Archive        interests    ranged    from    a
on Saturday 27th April 2019.          general desire to learning
The training was specifically         more about the Hall of
tailored to be a hands-on             Clestrain     to    researching
introduction to researching           specific time periods within the
rural buildings and properties        property’s history.
and in particular the Hall of
Clestrain.

Special thanks are extended
to the Orkney Archive staff
who supported this workshop.
                                      Figure 3: Excerpt from
                                      Dundas map of Barony, 1760
                                      (OA:D8/W/20)

                                      The day began with Sarah Jane
                                      introducing the team, the plan
                                      for the workshop and the user
                                 17
rules of the archive search               catalogue. Archive maps and
room and Orkney Room (local               charts,    statutory    sources,
studies collection).                      relevant private gifts and
                                          deposits and the value of these
                                          various evidence types were
                                          outlined using rural Orkney
                                          examples,       before     some
                                          interesting unexpected finds
                                          which can shed light on
                                          property       history      were
                                          discussed.     Sarah Jane had
                                          made a preparatory search of
                                          ‘Clestrain’ items in the archive
                                          catalogue which was offered
Figure 4: Inspection of
archive sources relating to the           out as a printout and a
Hall of Clestrain (ORCA)                  research starting point for the
                                          remainder of the day (and any
After this Sarah Jane gave a              future visits any of the
thirty-minute        introductory         participants wish to make).
presentation on rural-property
archive      resources.      This
presentation introduced the
relevant online materials and
explained the rationale behind
Orkney’s omission from some
of the key National sources
(i.e. not part of Mainland
Scotland). After looking at
online sources, map regression
as a useful initial research skill
was outlined and demon-                   Figure 5: Hall of Clestrain by
strated using rural examples              Tom Kent courtesy of Orkney
(Figure 1 & Figure 3).                    Library and Archive
Following on from this, the
                                          After the presentation and an
Orkney Archive catalogue was
                                          opportunity for questions, the
introduced. The various ways
                                          attendees were shown a range
in which to access and search
                                          of Hall of Clestrain specific
it were shown and tips given
                                          archive     and      published
on how to best use the
                                     18
resources that had been                  aim      of   combining    the
looked out in advance (Figure            information    to   create   a
4). These included some plans            timeline for the property with
of buildings on the Clestrain            respect to the estate on which
estate; First Edition OS maps            it is built.
(Figure 1); census returns;
sasines; archive photographs
from early 1900s; Sheriff
Court    Records;     published
books featuring Clestrain and
two maps showing the lands of
Clestrain. People were shown
how to access and navigate
the National Monuments of
Scotland Database – canmore
– through the pastmap portal,
how to access the National               Figure 7: D15/7/10 Receipt
Library of Scotland Maps                 for march fence
website, how to undertake
                                         The aim of the workshop was
geo-referenced searches and
                                         to prepare the attendees for
where to find the Ordnance
                                         undertaking rural property
Survey    Namebooks      whilst
                                         research       with     specific
others were shown how to use
                                         attention to the Hall of
the Archive catalogue.
                                         Clestrain and to encourage and
                                         enable people to undertake
                                         their own research in the
                                         Orkney Archive. The workshop
                                         achieved this and more, with
                                         several of the attendees
                                         determined     to   return   to
Figure 6: An excellent turn              continue their research having
out                                      gained confidence from the
                                         training offered.

Sarah Jane and Andy worked
alongside the participants to
explore aspects of the history
of the Hall of Clestrain with the
                                    19
John Rae September                  members’ names was bought
        Weekend                        for the Society and other items
                                       from them certainly bolstered
This year, because of the              our funds. The evening was a
250th Anniversary of The Hall          sparkling success with over
of Clestrain, we decided to            £3,000 raised. Highland Park
have a further celebration to          donated a star auction prize of
mark it. The planned visit of          their Ambassador’s Whisky
Fiona     Hyslop,     Scottish         Boxed Display. Good results
Secretary for the Arts and             were attained in the bidding,
Culture happened to coincide           especially, I might add, The
with our arrangements. Her             John Rae Pineapple, which
cause was to launch the                reached £55.00 from one of
Scottish Government’s Arctic           the Secretary of State’s lucky
Policy document on Monday              entourage! Fiona Hyslop was
23rd September. Invited to this        presented with silver earrings
were David Reid and Richard            and a pendant from Sheila
Smith of Arctic Return. They           Fleet’s new Arctic Stream
gave a presentation at the             range of jewellery. Billy Jolly
event      supporting      the         and Andy Cant played for us.
announcement at the new                Harvey Johnston gave us a
Conference Centre on the               new rousing speech: great fun
Heriot    Watt     University,         was had by all.
Stromness.
                                       Following      the    Scottish
On the Saturday before we had          Government’s announcement
an open day, which was the             about the Arctic, David Reid
best ever attended. On the             and Richard Smith presented a
Sunday evening we hosted a             riveting and humorous talk at
Charity Auction for JRS at The         The Orkney Theatre about
Orkney Distillery in Kirkwall.         their expedition. The Maureen
Guests of honour were David            Findlay Dancers opened the
Reid and Richard Smith. They           evening with a beautiful
were very happy to talk to             performance of The John Rae
members of their expedition            Reel. The school children who
and     experiences.    Special        created the winning flag
mementos of their amazing              designs for Arctic Return
trek were offered as auction           waved the explorers on to the
prizes too. A splendid framed          stage. They presented David
map was fiercely competed              Reid and Richard Smith with
for. A flag with the expedition        Honorary Life Membership
                                       scrolls at the end of their
                                  20
presentation. Highland Park                 This was an amazing weekend
provided whisky tastings and                supported by visitors from
we served Arctic Roll and                   Canada, America, France and
Pineapple juice.                            all over the UK. Hopefully we
                                            can continue the momentum
The    Maureen     Findlay   dancers        of what we have here,
performing the John Rae reel                particularly in the schools. JRS
                                            members of the future are
                                            there.

                                            Andrew Appleby

                                                          ***

Photo by JohnPeterWelburn ABIPP
                                             More Volunteers Please!
The evening again was a great               We     have     some     stalwart
success. After and before their             volunteers but could always do
presentations    David     and              with more! We understand
Richard answered so many                    people may not be able to
questions from an intrigued                 commit large amounts of time
public.                                     but if you could see your way
                                            to giving us a couple of hours
The Arctic team were only too               now and then, please contact
happy to go to Stromness                    us     (771419      or     e-mail
Primary School, St Margaret’s               fursbreck@btinternet.com
Hope Primary and Papdale.                   We       would        specifically
The youngsters       were so                appreciate help with
attentive and keen on the                        Manning stalls at shows
whole subject of the Arctic and                     and open days
some already had a deep                          Assisting guides at the
knowledge of John Rae and his                       Hall of Clestrain
life. A most popular subject                     Preparing and serving
was that of narwhals. Question                      refreshments
after question on them came                      Small clerical tasks
from each school. Such is the                    Putting up posters etc.
enthusiasm for John Rae and
his Arctic within the schools               The Board of Trustees would
that another visit from them                also welcome people who
would be most welcome in the                might like to join them, as
future.                                     numbers are small.
                                       21
Co-op Cheque for the John                throughout the Hall’s
Rae Society                              renovation, as well as
                                         providing a warm place to
                                         meet.

                                                      ***

                                         Corporate Member:
                                         Skarabooks

                                         Being President of The John
                                         Rae Society, I firmly believe in
                                         its aims and objectives. From
 Photo by JohnPeter Welburn ABIPP        experience I have come to
                                         realise that our Dr. John
Orkney      Community       Co-
operative     presented    rep-
resentatives from the John Rae
Society with a cheque for
£9,928     in    Kirkwall    on
November 21st —a very
handsome donation and one
for which we are extremely
grateful. The donation is
timely: we are about to apply
for funding to help create a
development plan for restoring
the Hall and turning it into a
world-class visitor centre and           Rae was a living example to
community resource. For this             those with whom he worked.
we have to match any funding             The indigenous peoples he
awarded. A development plan              learned from and respected
will put us in a stronger                have forever returned that
position in applying for large-
                                         respect too. Their honour of
scale funding.
                                         him and his ways shows us
                                         his character, selflessness and
A portion of the money will
                                         honesty, which should be a
also help fit out the temporary
visitor centre at the Hall of            marker for us all. Being
Clestrain, ensuring visitor and          dishonoured and side-lined by
community engagement                     British culture in his time is a
                                    22
lasting disgrace.                      restored and turned into a
                                       lasting memorial. Those of you
                                       who live further afield seem to
Skarabooks, my small                   cherish    every     scrap   of
publishing company, became             information we send you on
a Corporate member of The              progress towards our goals.
John Rae Society for two main          Here in Orkney large numbers
reasons. Firstly, my series of         of people give time and effort
novels entitled ‘Skara’ are            to the cause — whether it be
initially set in Neolithic             manning stalls at shows and
Orkney, the Canadian Arctic            fairs or doing running repairs
and the Arctic Rim. Secondly           to the Hall.
I’m a constant forager, which
                                       Davie Reid, JRS ‘handyman’ fixing a
comes out in the novels. My                           pipe
hero, Oiwa, travels unwittingly
from his Tundra and Taiga
homelands to Orkney. Shala,
the heroine, lives in Neolithic
Orkney near what is now
known as The Tomb of The
Eagles. With her mentor,
Wrasse, they spiritually and
supernaturally encourage the
hero to reach Orkney.

Andrew Appleby

             ***

THE JOHN RAE BIRTHDAY
DRAW                                    Photo by JohnPeter Welburn ABIPP

John Rae was by all accounts a         As reported earlier in this
modest and unassuming man              newsletter our next steps are
who    would     have    been          to invest in a development
astounded at the passion with          plan (for which we are required
which, nearly two hundred              to match the grant given). This
years later, his supporters            will   greatly   improve    our
defend his name and strive to          chances of obtaining larger
see   his   childhood   home           amounts of funding.
                                  23
We are not asking you to shin           expedition.    The    Hall   of
up ladders to fix pipes, but we         Clestrain and the John Rae
are hoping you will, if you are         Society will tell the story,
able, buy or sell some of the           largely missing from the
enclosed raffle tickets. We             history books, of Rae’s great
promise to spend the money              skill and bravery, and how his
wisely.                                 Orcadian curiosity, instincts
                                        and ‘duggedness’ helped him
             ***                        to adapt to the local Cree and
                                        Inuit ways, enabling him to
Corporate Member: Kristin               survive the harsh conditions
Linklater Voice Centre Ltd.             that had defeated many
                                        others.

                                        These    remarkable  accom-
                                        plishments cannot be fully
                                        appreciated in modern times
                                        without a tangible stage on
                                        which to revive John Rae’s
                                        memory.
The Kristin Linklater Voice
Centre is happy to contribute           Kristin Linklater Voice Centre
to this great community-based           opened its doors in 2014 as a
restoration project of John             fully residential voice retreat
Rae’s family home, the Hall of          centre in Orkney, offering a
Clestrain.      Bringing   this         variety of voice and text
childhood home back to life will        courses throughout the year.
revitalise    the    remarkable
                                        Kristin Linklater is a world-
achievements of this heroic
                                        renowned teacher of voice
Orcadian explorer.
                                        production who has pursued a
A dedicated museum will                 highly successful academic
exhibit the role of the                 and theatrical career in the
Orcadians in the history of the         United States and Europe for
Hudson Bay company and will             the past fifty years. On retiring
vividly      highlight      the         as a Professor of Theatre Arts
importance of John Rae’s                at Columbia University in
contribution to the discovery of        2013, Kristin returned to her
the North West Passage and              native Orkney to continue her
the fate of the Franklin                legacy.
                                   24
Corporate member:                        It has been a recent honour to
Adventure Canada                         formally join forces with the
                                         JRS    in   support     of    the
                                         restoration of the Hall of
                                         Clestrain. Our guests deeply
                                         value the opportunity to learn
                                         more about John Rae and to
                                         physically get to set foot at the
                                         Hall of Clestrain. We’ve heard
                                         this time and again from our
                                         guests, and we have seen
Adventure Canada is thrilled             motivation in action from our
to support and be a part of              guests through our corporate
the John Rae Society. Our                fundraising    to    specifically
family roots are in Scotland             benefit the Hall of Clestrain.
and our business is Arctic
exploration and tourism. We              We’re working diligently to
could not find a better                  raise the profile of John Rae in
partnership anchored by a                Canada        and     on     our
shared value for the                     expeditions. In March 2019 we
recognition of Rae’s Arctic              sponsored David Reid’s Arctic
accomplishments and the                  Return      Expedition,    which
preservation of history and              sought to re-trace John Rae’s
heritage if we tried!                    journey from Naujaat (Repulse
                                         Bay) in Nunavut across the
We’ve celebrated John Rae for            Boothia Peninsula to Rae Strait
many decades on our Arctic               in 1854. Reid, who spear-
expeditions      though      the         headed the expedition, is
Northwest Passage, visiting              originally from Bishopton, near
many      important    historical        Glasgow, and much like Rae,
sites, as well as through visits         has an infectious passion and
to Orkney on our expedition              enthusiasm for polar travel
cruises to the Scottish Islands.         and exploration. The Arctic
It has been a great privilege to         Return      expedition,    which
share the remarkable stories             involved a team of four who
of a remarkable man with                 trekked       650     kilometres
visitors from around the world           through ice and snow with
through experts such as Ken              sleds and skis, paid tribute to
McGoogan and David         Reid,         and raised awareness of John
both of whom join Adventure              Rae. The journey honoured
Canada expeditions regularly.            Rae’s eagerness to learn from
                                         First    Nations     and    Inuit
                                    25
peoples, and promoted the               achievements in Arctic ex-
restoration and conversion of           ploration and surveying land.
the Hall of Clestrain into an
interpretive  Arctic   History          In September 2018 RICS
Centre.                                 appointed him as an honorary
                                        chartered surveyor and a
We are proud to help preserve           posthumous RICS diploma was
the    legacy     of   such    a        later awarded as part of RICS’s
remarkable explorer and look            150th      anniversary    cele-
forward to returning to the             brations. An exhibition was set
Arctic region Rae loved so              up in London of artefacts (on
much on our 2020 Northwest
                                        loan from       the John Rae
Passage expeditions and back
                                        Society president, Andrew
to the Hall of Clestrain in 2021
on    our    Scotland     Slowly        Appleby)      together     with
expedition.                             photographs from Stromness
                                        Museum) pertaining to his life
                                        and surveying achievements in
              ***                       the Arctic.

                                        Recognising Rae’s feats in
Corporate member: Royal                 travelling over 13,000 miles in
Institution of Chartered                the Arctic and mapping 1800
Surveyors                               miles of coastline, John
                                        Hughes, RICS President, says
                                        ‘If he were born 50 years later,
                                        Rae would have surely become
                                        a member of RICS and many
                                        of the surveying skills he
                                        learned to map the Northwest
                                        Passage have been used by
                                        subsequent explorers.’
RICS is the world’s leading
professional      body      for         RICS continues to highlight
                                        Rae’s success in surveying. In
qualifications and standards in
                                        February 2019 he was voted
land, property, infrastructure
and construction. For some              the most inspiring surveyor in
time now RICS has been                  RICS’ Pride in the Profession
                                        Mappers category.
determined to get appropriate
recognition for John Rae’s

                                   26
Additionally RICS sponsored                   Forthcoming Events
the Arctic Return team in their
efforts to obtain recognition for                  Heart of Orphir
this remarkable man’s skill and             Saturday 14th March 2020
qualities. RICS remain strong               10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.
                                            Orphir Community School Hall
advocates for John Rae.
                                            Informal presentations of the
                                            Society’s future plans for the
                                            Hall of Clestrain and an
     John Rae Society                       opportunity     to   contribute
    Membership Update                       views and ideas. We would like
                                            as many representatives from
Note: we have recently revised our
                                            different    organisations   in
membership lists, using new systems.
                                            Orkney as possible.
                                            Photographic exhibitions.
                                            Free refreshments.
 Type of              Number                          Prize Bingo
 Membership                                 Doors open 6.45pm for eyes
 Annual               66                    down 7.30 p.m.
 Standing Order       99                    Great prizes!
 Life                 161

                                                  John Rae Festival
 Members by area                                   Fri. 8th May to
 Orkney          99                             Sun.10th May 2020
 Scotland        92                         Open Days at the Hall of
 UK Other        85                         Clestrain     with    foraging
 Overseas        50                         expeditions and shore walks.
                                            Other events to be announced

                                                  John Rae Birthday
                                                  End of September
                                                   (Exact date TBC)
                                            Plans are for a charity auction,
                                            culminating in the John Rae
                                            Birthday Draw!
                                            There will also be a meal at
                                            Sheila Fleet’s Kirk Café. This
                                            will be a ticketed event.
                                            Details to follow later.

                                       27
Visitors from afar                      Victorian Christmas Cards

We appreciate the fact that             I put my late husband’s
many visitors have limited              collection  of    about    100
time in Orkney. If you are not          Victorian Christmas cards,
here during one of our Open             dating mostly from the 1890s
Days but would like to visit the        on display at Skaill House
Hall of Clestrain, do contact us        during the Craft Fair there on
and we will do our best to              December 14th and 15th. They
arrange something for you. We           aroused a great deal of
are always pleased to see               interest.
visitors.                               Several of you have expressed
You can do this through our             a wish to see them. If there is
website:                                sufficient interest I could
www.johnraesociety.com or               arrange something perhaps
by e-mail:                              during the John Rae Birthday
fursbreck@btinternet.com                weekend in September. Please
                                        get in touch if you are
or tel. 01856 771419                    interested.

                                        Fiona Gould
Gift Membership

Have you considered giving              Contributions    for       the
someone JRS membership as               Spring newsletter
a present? Annual (single)
£15 and (joint) £20.                    I would be grateful for
                                        contributions for the next
You can arrange this through            newsletter — articles, travel
the website or by contacting            accounts, book reviews, in fact
the Member-ship Secretary.              anything you think would be of
                                        interest to members.

                                        Editor

                                   28
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