ANTI-AGEING TRENDS MARKETS, TARGETS, INGREDIENTS - STEFAN BÄNZIGER, PHD - BIOARK
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Anti-Ageing Trends
Markets, Targets, Ingredients
Stefan Bänziger, PhD
1
Anti-Ageing Trends
Contents
RAHN
Market Data (Facial Care)
Trends
Conclusion
2
About RAHN 3
Business Areas EnergyCuring Cosmetics Scent & Taste Globally active in Global sales of high-quality Innovative fragrance and development and sales of raw materials and active aroma compositions and high-perfomance raw ingredients for innovative selected raw materials for the materials for radiation curing. cosmetics applications. food industry. 4
Products
and Services
We offer our customers solutions with real added value thanks to many years of experience
in cosmetics development and extensive expertise in sales and consulting.
Products Services
RAHN-Cosmetic Actives / Active ingredients
Professional consulting
Antioxidants Emulsifiers Peeling agents
Gelling Efficient customer service
Plant extracts Eye catcher beads
agents/hydrocolloids
Quick and easy raw material
Emollients Surfactants
sampling
Customised solutions
Laboratory activities and product development
Supervision and support of customer projects Trainings for customers and sales
Product and laboratory training for customers and suppliers
Strong international sales and
Creation of cutting-edge formulations distribution network
Integration of our raw material suppliers’ product ranges Implementation of latest
Development of further applications regulations, safety aspects
Development of additional active ingredient concepts Up-to-date, comprehensive product
documentation
5
Market Data 6
Global Market
Facial Care
7 / Mintel
European Market
Facial Care
8 / Mintel
Global Market
Facial Care: Top 10 Claims by Region
Global Asia Pacific Europe Latin America North America
Botanical/Herbal Botanical/Herbal Botanical/Herbal Botanical/Herbal Botanical/Herbal
Moisturising / Hydrating Moisturising / Hydrating Moisturising / Hydrating Moisturising / Hydrating Moisturising / Hydrating
Vitamin/Mineral Fortified Vitamin/Mineral Fortified Dermatologically Tested Dermatologically Tested Ethical - Animal
Dermatologically Tested Long-Lasting Long-Lasting Vitamin/Mineral Fortified Vitamin/Mineral Fortified
Long-Lasting Brightening / Illuminating Vitamin/Mineral Fortified Long-Lasting Long-Lasting
Brightening /
Ethical - Animal Time/Speed Brightening / Illuminating Time/Speed
Illuminating*
Brightening / Illuminating Whitening Ethical - Animal Male Seasonal
Time/Speed Ethical - Animal Time/Speed Brightening / Illuminating Paraben Free
No Additives/
Male UV Protection Damaged Hair Time/Speed
Preservatives
No Additives/
Dermatologically Tested Organic Female Dermatologically Tested
Preservatives
9 / Mintel
Global Market
Facial Care: Top 5 Claims by Sub-Category
81%
11%
8%
1%
10 / MintelTrends 11
Executive Summary
1) Consumers are more wary of what they buy and
therefore are demanding more information about a
product’s ingredients, provenance, manufacturing
process and safety testing.
• Natural / Sourcing can be an important issue
• Free-from marketing is on the rise
• Sun care and sensitive skin are gaining
importance
2) The market becomes more segmented and expands
to new categories and claims
• Tapping into niches
12Trend 1: Awareness
More and more Date are Required
PIF
• Nanomaterials (Art 16/19)
Safety
Assessment • Declaration of subsidiary technical
material (Art 19)
Exposure
• Animal Experiments (Art 11)
NOAEL • Safety Assement (Annex 1)
• Impurities (Annex 1)
MoS
• Claim Substantiation (Art 20)
13Trend 1: Awareness
Consumer Driven
• Natural products are preferred
Botanicals are extensively used for
natural touch
exotic touch
anti-ageing properties
product seems safer
14Trend 1: Awareness
Sustained Management of Natural Resources
15 / MintelTrend 1: Awareness
Sustained Sourcing / Provenance
SLIMEXIR® CELLIGENT®
X-Melt® + Artichoke extract + Levan Ethyl Ferulate + Carnosolic Acid + UMP
The Artichoke extract is obtained Uridine Monophosphate (UMP) is
from the stock of artichokes which isolated from sugar molasses obtained
are used in the food industry. during sugar manufacturing.
16Trend 1: Awareness
Consumer Driven
• „Natural“ products are preferred
• Animal experiments are cruel
17Trend 1: Awareness
Consumer Driven
Free from
• „Natural“ products are preferred
• Animal experiments are cruel
• Preservatives are dangerous
• Nanomaterials are harmful
• Sun exposure threatens the skin
• Sensitive Skin
18 / New England Journal of Medicine; April 2012Basic formulations when applied to skin
and exposed to UV-light, often induce harmful ROS
• The application of cosmetic
products leads to increased
photosensitivity of the skin
19 / Jung K. et Bänziger S., HPC Today, Vol. 8(2) March/April 2013CELLIGENT®
Intelligent Skin Protection
Ethyl Ferulate Carnosolic acid UMP
Efficacy data
• Effective cell and DNA protection
during solar irradiation (in-vitro study)
• Stem Cell protection (in-vitro study)
• Rapid regeneration of UV-related cell
and DNA damage (in-vivo erythema study)
• „After Sun Rescue Treatment” (user test)
• Protects skin and cosmetic products against
formulation-induced ROS formation (ex-vivo study)
20CELLIGENT® completely reduces
the detrimental pro-oxidative effect of basic formulations
• The application of cosmetic
products leads to increased
photosensitivity of the skin
• CELLIGENT® protects the skin
from free radicals and neutralises
undesired side effects provoked
by cosmetic products
• Improved photo-resistance of the
skin
21 / Jung K. et Bänziger S., HPC Today, Vol. 8(2) March/April 2013Trend 1: Awareness – Sensitive Skin
DEFENSIL-PLUS® - natural skin care for conscious consumers
Sensitive skin: hyper-reactive, easily-irritable
Occurence : 60% of women / 40% of men
35% of UK women are looking for products , designed f
or sensitive skin, but only 14% of EU-launches are so
→ potential for growth and NPD
DEFENSIL-PLUS® :
Eases symptomes AND improves quality of life
Free from preservatives, perfumes, colorants, PEG’s,,…
Pure Natural Power!
22Trend 2: Segmentation
Exploring New Consumer Groups
SENIORS
65+
BABY BOOMERS
47-65 years old
GENERATION X
35-46 years old
MILLENNIALS
17-34 years old
GENERATION NEXTTrend 2: Segmentation - Millenials
Design aware / Digital natives
Packaging factors influencing choice Agreement with statements on alcoholic
of food and drink drink packaging
30% “Attractive” 70% “Eye catching”
60%
25%
50%
20%
40%
15%
30%
10%
20%
5% 10%
0% 0%
All 16-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55+ All 16-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55+
24 / Minte Oxygen, Food and Drink Packaging Trends – UK January 2012Trend 2: Segmentation - Millenials
Seeking Luxury
Opinions about saving and spending money
“I will sometimes buy luxury items that I cannot afford to keep up to date.”
30%
25%
20%
15%
10%
5%
0%
All Millennials Gen X Baby Boomers Seniors
25 / Mintel Oxygen, Marketing to Millennials – US – August 2012Trend 2: Segmentation - Millenials
Socially Responsible
In the past six months, have you chosen to purchase a particular product
(instead of a similar product) based on any of the following?
Energy efficient
Environmentally friendly
Produced locally
Donates a portion of its profits to a charity
Not tested on animals
Improves the lives of others
Fair trade
Made by employees who are compensated fairly
0% 10% 20% 30% 40%
Millennials All
26 / Mintel Oxygen, Attitudes Towards Corporate Social Responsibility – US – September 2012Skin Care for Millennials
CELLACTIVE®-HYDRO and you can dance all night long!
Delayed adolescence
Protection / Early prevention line
Socially responsible
Organic ingredients
Design aware / Luxury seeking
Appropriate packaging
Digital natives
”Prep-App”
Join
us!
27Trend 2: Segmentation - Men
Still the customers of tomorrow?
• 17% of men use facial cleansers or Multifunctional – Cleansing
medicated products (vs 57% of Moisturising
women
• Compared to 40% of male
teenagers → once men have dealt
with teenage acne, companies
struggle to retain these consumers
• Information to choose products
comes from friend/family (30%), TV
(20%), and None of the above
(50%) → low level of interaction
with facial care products that
needs to be boosted
28 / Mintel Facial Skincare – US – May 2012Skinkeeper – Targeting Golfers
RADICARE® - the hole-in-one for your Skin
NEW!
Overall ROS-Protection!
29Conclusions Moisturising
• Hydrating formulations and plant-based Botanical / Herbal / Natural
ingredients are an integral part of facial care,
present in 6/10 new launches in 2012
Safety
• Botanicals are selected for their anti-ageing
properties or to add a natural or exotic touch or Free From
to make the products feel safer.
Provenance might become more important
Sensitive Skin
• Consumers are more wary of what they buy and UV-
the European market for facial care is very much Protection
about safety
Millenials
• Free-from marketing is on the rise
Men
• High level of launches for sensitive skin
30Conclusions Moisturising
• Consumers lernt that UV-protection is Botanical / Herbal
important;
However, the industry is not yet fully
aware that basic formulations might Safety
increase photosensitivity
Free From
• There is inceased segementation and expansion
into new categories and claims .
E.g. Milenials / Men’s care Sensitive Skin
UV-
Protection
Millenials
Men
31THANK YOU
FOR YOUR ATTENTION
32Presentation Phytoark 10/13 Utilisation of this document or parts thereof as well as product names for commercial or industrial applications is subject to explicit written approval by RAHN AG. This information is based on our own experience to date and we believe it to be reliable. It is intended only as a guide to use at your discretion and risk. We cannot guarantee favourable results and assume no liability in connection with its use, or the use of the methods or products described. None of this information is to be taken as a license to operate under, or a recommendation to infringe patents. 33
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