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Ind ia is intox icat ing. It ’s f renet ic in places but glor iou sly rela xed in ot hers. For u s, it ’s a l l about t he ex per ience. We ca n t a ke you to meet people w it h a mazing stor ies to share a nd steer you t h rough market s a s a cit y wa kes. We k now t he best addresses to st ay at ; t he ones where room s come w it h v iews of t he Taj Ma ha l, t he for mer g ra nd pa laces a nd t he tented ca mps t hat br ing lu x ur y to t he w i lder ness. L et u s in spire you a nd cra f t your per fect Ind ia holiday.
CONTENTS
The Kuoni Difference 4
Rajasthan & the Golden Triangle 8
Mumbai 18
Anita Rani’s guide to Indian
Street Food 20
On safari in India 24
The Himalaya, Nepal & Bhutan 28
Kerala, Goa and the best of
Southern India 34
Planning your holiday 44
Suggested Itineraries 46
3THE KUONI
DIFFERENCE
Kuoni is a l l about incredible ser v ice. So whet her
you get in touch on line or in one of our stores,
we’ l l ensure you have t he same travel ex per t f rom
st ar t to f inish.
TALK TO US THE FULL KUONI
EXPERIENCE
Use our online expert finder
to interact with someone who Planning the perfect holiday takes
has visited a destination you’re time and we believe it should be
interested in, chat to us online an exciting experience. Book an
or book an appointment in store. appointment in a beautiful Kuoni
However you get in touch, we’ll store and we’ll listen to what’s
offer top-notch service and tailor- important to you while you relax
make a holiday that’s with a complimentary glass of
right for you. Champagne.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 200+ AWARDS
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holiday as incredible as possible. and service awards. These awards
Following their booking with reflect our ambition to deliver
Kuoni, customers rated us on an amazing experience on every
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customergauge.
KUONI AT JOHN LEWIS
You can find Kuoni in selected
John Lewis stores across the UK.
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John Lewis gift list.
Call us: 01306 747000
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Explore: www.kuoni.co.uk
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 5‘Not a piece of architecture, as
other buildings are, but the proud
passions of an emperor’s love
wrought in living stones’
– Sir Edwin Arnold
C a l l 0 13 0 6 747 0 0 0 | w w w . k u o n i . c o . u k 7INDIA G o l d e n Tr i a n g l e
INDIA’S OPENING
ACT: THE GOLDEN
TRIANGLE
Travel India’s iconic route f rom t he whirl of Del hi
to t he jaw-dropping Taj Ma ha l.
The Golden Triangle is how HOW TO DO IT
most people experience India The Golden Triangle is connected
for the first time. Fly into by fast and cost-effective trains,
Delhi and you’ll quickly come but our favourite way of getting
face to face with its noises around is with a private car
and dizzying crowds, softened and driver. You’ll get the most
only by regimented colonial flexibility out of your holiday as
architecture and grand Mughal you can decide when and where
monuments. The next stop, you stop, or whether a scenic
Agra, is home to one show- detour is on the cards. There are
stealing masterpiece – the Taj plenty of hotels to choose from Amber Fort, Jaipur
Mahal – and in the royal state’s too, whether you want a cute
dusty pink capital, Jaipur, a boutique stay or a butler-serviced
mighty fort beckons you into palace with views of the Taj Mahal.
its amber walls. For regal luxury, Oberoi Hotels &
Resorts has a sensational trio of
WHAT TO SEE Golden Triangle hotels (p16). The
usual round trip from Delhi can
The Taj Mahal is India’s most
be covered in a week but you’ll
famous treasure. Its ivory-white
be tempted to do more, like add
symmetry is instantly recognisable
a tiger safari (p24), head further
and its romantic backstory
into Rajasthan (p12) or go south
is legendary – the palatial
for Goa’s golden beaches (p36).
mausoleum was built in memory
of Mumtaz Mahal by her husband, WHEN TO VISIT Indian spice market
Emperor Shah Jahan. Yes, it will
The best time to do India’s Golden
be busy, but you’ll want to visit at
Triangle is in winter (October to
sunrise or sunset (or both) for the
March). It’s the most popular time
gloriously changing colours (and
so things can get busy, but days
maybe go to the Moonlight Garden
are mostly dry with temperatures
for a long shot photo). In Delhi,
in the mid-teens and cooler
you can pay homage to fallen WWI
nights. The middle of winter
soldiers at India Gate, see Mughal
(December to January) can mean
style at Red Fort and get a taste
some foggy days so it’s worth
of street food at Chandi Chowk.
going either side of these months.
Jaipur is a spectacle in itself: most
of its buildings are a shade of
kuoni.co.uk/india/
dusky terracotta, apparently done goldentriangle
to impress Edward VII who visited
in 1876.
Taj Mahal, Agra
8 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsG o l d e n Tr i a n g l e INDIA
OUR FAVOURITE
THINGS TO DO
Our must-do ex per iences in and
around t he Golden Tr iangle
SEE THE OLD AND NE W SIDES OF DELHI
Walk along the uniform streets of British-
designed New Delhi – and then suddenly
you’re in Old Delhi, a loud tangle of narrow
lanes that knot into each other. We love the
chaos at Chandni Chowk and traces of Mughal
rule at Red Fort and Jama Masjid Mosque.
WATCH THE SUN RISE OVER THE
TAJ MAHAL
Our favourite time of day to see this world
wonder is sunrise. You’ll beat the afternoon
and evening crowds and the glow of light
makes it a magical experience that’s worth the
extra early wake-up call.
TAKE AN E VENING WALK THROUGH
JAIPUR’S BAZ A AR
Chat to locals about their crafts and try out
street food snacks like spiced pakora and
sweet jalebi.
WHERE TO STAY POP TO THE TAJ MAHAL ON THE
GATIMA AN EXPRESS
India’s Golden Triangle is kitted out with charming colonial hotels,
If you’re short on time, you can squeeze in
sumptuous palaces and everything in-between.
the Taj Mahal on a day trip from Delhi. It only
takes the air-conditioned Gatimaan Express an
MAIDENS HOTEL, NE W DELHI SAMODE HAVELI, JAIPUR hour and 45 minutes to reach Agra, so you can
BEST FOR: GR AND HERITAGE BEST FOR: BOUTIQUE CHARM leave in the morning, spend the day exploring
This hotel is a relic of the British Hand-painted murals and candlelit the mausoleum, and be back in time for dinner.
Raj with pleasing symmetry, courtyards make this restored
SPEND THE DAY AT AMBER FORT
above-and-beyond Oberoi service royal home an extra special
Walk or take the Jeep up to the pale golden
and just 55 colonial-style rooms. hideaway in Jaipur.
fortress-palace for views over Amer. Don’t
miss the Sheesh Mahal, a room famously
THE LEEL A PAL ACE, NE W DELHI THE OBEROI AMARVIL A S, AGR A
decorated with tiny mirror fragments.
BEST FOR: SHOWSTOPPING BEST FOR: TAJ MAHAL VIEWS
SPLENDOUR This lavish retreat is one of a kind
This opulent hotel serves up – it’s the only hotel in Agra where
unrivalled levels of luxury with a you can wake up to views of the
rooftop pool in central New Delhi. Taj Mahal no matter which room
you’re in.
TRIDENT, JAIPUR
BEST FOR: L AKESIDE LUXURY See our full range of India
HOW TO SEE THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE
A grand and understated retreat accommodation at:
These suggested itineraries all feature the Golden
just 10 minutes’ drive from central Triangle and can be tailored to include your
kuoni.co.uk/india/hotels
Jaipur with romantic window choice of hotels and experiences:
arches that frame the lake views. Classic Golden Triangle p46
Classic Rajasthan p48
Contrasts of India - North & South p62
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 9INDIA
INTIMATE INDIA:
LIKE A LOCAL
Fol low a loca l g uide for t he ever yday, behind-t he-tour ist-
scenes action you might never come across on your ow n.
Getting out of the car and in Varanasi, the spiritual capital,
onto the pavement is a rite of you’ll turn a corner and see
passage for really getting to people performing funeral rituals
know anywhere, and India is by the sacred River Ganges.
no different. Most of a city’s
charm is hidden behind doors ON YOUR BIKE
and off main roads, and the Cycling is a liberating way to see
best way to find it is guided somewhere for the first time.
by someone who calls it home. You’ll cover a lot of ground in
India is brilliant for these just a few hours – but at a gentle
kinds of experiences – here’s a pace and on nice, flat terrain
flavour of our favourite ways to – and there’s always time for
see it like a local. spontaneous stops if something
catches your eye. Your guide will
ON FOOT lead the way so you’re free to
Get under the layers of an Indian focus on taking in the sights –
city by walking right into the thick like the rainbow community of
of its untamed jumble of alleys. European churches, Hindu temples
You’ll find its rhythm when you and Jewish synagogues that show
brush past locals in a no-frills fruit you just how multicultural Kochi
and veg market or stop by small, (Cochin) really is, but which aren’t
family-run shops – the ones you always covered in traditional
can’t find with satnav. Markets sightseeing tours. Kochi
are a huge part of everyday
life in India and you have to be HOW TO DO IT
a pedestrian to see it, like in You can do locally led experiences
Mumbai where a morning walk all around India, from northern
gradually becomes more fragrant cities like Delhi, Kolkata and
as you’re led through fish, fruit Mumbai right down to Kochi and
and flower markets that are open Chennai in the south. Rajasthan
for business before the sun’s even is full of cities that you’ll want to
up; or in Jaipur where some last- see on foot; our Classic Rajasthan
minute tips on haggling will help itinerary (p48) is perfect for
you bag some Rajasthani gold. adding private guided tours in
Being on foot can let you in on Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur.
India’s deep-rooted religion, too;
SEE NORTHERN INDIA LIKE A LOCAL ON OUR:
Classic Rajasthan suggested itinerary p48
Enchanting Kerala suggested itinerary p60
Chowpatty beach, Mumbai
10 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsINDIA
OUR FAVOURITE LOCAL SPOTS TO EXPLORE
CULTUR AL KOCHI MUMBAI BY DAWN ROYAL JAIPUR
Kochi is a surprisingly An early start in Mumbai is Chat to locals over a cup of
harmonious mishmash of worth it to see the city like the coal-fired chai in Rajasthan’s
cultures and religions, and locals do every day. Dawn is pink city and see what the
there’s a bicycle tour that’ll the best time to watch markets crafts capital has to offer in its
take you right to the heart come to life and fishermen old bazaars.
of it. selling their catch.
kuoni.co.uk/kochi kuoni.co.uk/mumbai kuoni.co.uk/jaipur
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 11INDIA Rajasthan
RAJASTHAN:
BEYOND THE
GOLDEN TRIANGLE
Rowdy cities, prowling tigers and gi lded pa laces –
Rajast han is t he India of most people’s imaginations.
Loud and proud cities? Check. INTO THE WILD
Rugged empty landscapes? There are spectacular pockets of
Absolutely. This state nails nature to escape the giddy city
the urban-wilderness balance rush. Ranthambore is the go-to for
and doesn’t waste an inch of post-Golden Triangle tiger safaris,
space doing it. Just one city in – though there are more intimate
whether it’s lake-filled Udaipur parks with even better human-
or blue-painted Jodhpur – to-tiger ratios (p24). In the desert
and you’ll realise the Golden between Jaipur and Udaipur, a
Triangle was just the beginning royal family run their home-turned-
of your love affair with India. Udaipur
desert-oasis-retreat, Shahpura
Bagh. From Jaisalmer, it’s under an
URBAN LEGENDS hour to all-natural escapism in the
Thar Desert. And if you’re serious
Rajasthan has enough cool cities
about wildlife, there’s even a place
to make whole countries envious.
that rivals African game reserves.
They’re worthy follow-up acts
You can go on safari in Africa and
after you’ve had a taste in the
never spot the elusive leopard, but
Golden Triangle’s Jaipur (p8).
Jawai’s sizable leopard population
Jodhpur is a desert-edge city in
over its small area means you’re
denim where monkeys wreak
likely to catch them around their
havoc (yes, really; see Planet
granite caves.
Earth II, episode six). Udaipur is
as regal as cities get, with palaces WHEN TO VISIT
that float near, and sometimes
Rajasthan’s best sightseeing Indian leopard at Jawai
even on, its lakes – this is where
weather is between October and
you can stay at Taj Lake Palace
March; days are sunny and nights
(p16), the villain lair in James
are cooler. It’s also a good time for
Bond film, Octopussy. Jaisalmer
safaris in Ranthambore (summer
adds to Rajasthan’s rich colour
is prime time for wildlife spotting
spectrum with golden yellow
as it draws everyone out for water,
sandstone haveli (large Indian
but the heat will be uncomfortable
townhouses/mansions), and in
for you too). India in celebration
Bikaner, Indian craftsmanship is at
mode is an electrifying experience;
its finest at Junagahr Fort.
time your visit for Holi (Hindu
festival of colours in March) or
Diwali (Hindu festival of light,
usually between October and
November) to join in the fun. Bo Kaap
kuoni.co.uk/rajasthan
Junagahr
Bo Kaap Fort, Bikaner
12 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsRajasthan INDIA
OUR FAVOURITE
THINGS TO DO
Our must-do ex per iences in and
around Raja st han
SPEND THE NIGHT IN A
R AJASTHANI ROYAL PAL ACE
You’ll be treated like nobility yourself when
you borrow the actual home of rulers past and
present for a night or two. Hide away from the
ordinary in the quaint quarters of Rajasthan’s
city palaces (p16).
SPOT AN INDIAN LEOPARD AT
SUJÁN JAWAI
Escape the urban roar and sleep under a starry
night sky at an ultra-luxe desert camp – where
you’ll share the rocky landscape with graceful
big cats who’ve set up camp there too.
GE T LOST IN JODHPUR’S
MEHR ANGARH FORT
Get a glimpse into the life of Rajasthan royalty
at this fort-museum and spy India’s blue city
from above.
GO FOR A BIKE RIDE AROUND
W H E R E T O S TAY
UDAIPUR
Rajasthan’s huge range of hotels stretches from chic desert
See little houses, market stands and maybe
camps to fairytale palaces.
cattle in the road on a bike ride (p10) around
the gorgeous City of Lakes – with an obligatory
THE LEEL A PAL ACE UDAIPUR SUJÁN JAWAI stop for a chat over chai.
BEST FOR: MESMERISING BEST FOR: LEOPARD -
L AKE LUXURY SPOT TED LUXURY E XPLORE LOC AL MARKE T S IN
This modern-day palace perched This boutique camp redefines R AJASTHAN’S CITIES
by Lake Pichola is a classic Indian (and even African) safaris Make a mission of finding the nicest thing to
experience in the City of Lakes. with almost unheard-of numbers bring home and practising your haggling skills,
of leopard sightings. or just throw yourself into the flurry of the
SHAHPUR A BAGH
local market – every city has at least one.
BEST FOR: RUGGED -ROYAL SUJÁN THE SER AI, JAISALMER
HOMESTAY BEST FOR: AN AWAY-FROM-
Stay with the local ruling family IT-ALL OASIS
in their heritage home nestled in This luxe desert camp is made for
a desert oasis between Jaipur and slowing down with stargazing, spa
Udaipur. treatments and sundowners.
TAJ UMAID BHAWAN PAL ACE, See our full range of Rajasthan
JODHPUR accommodation at:
BEST FOR: GR ANDEUR ON HOW TO SEE RAJASTHAN
AN EPIC SCALE kuoni.co.uk/rajasthan/hotels These suggested itineraries all feature Rajasthan
beyond the Golden Triangle and can be tailored
Royals live in the next wing at this
to include the accommodation and experiences
iconic mansion, which was built
of your choice:
with the same marble used at the
Golden Triangle extensions p46
Taj Mahal.
Classic Rajasthan p48
Contrasts of India – North & South p62
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 13INDIA Luxury hotels
Share a royal
family’s palace
on our Classic
Rajasthan
itinerar y p48
Taj Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jodhpur
Sleep in a
f loating palace
on our Classic
Rajasthan
itinerar y p48
Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur
14 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsLuxury hotels INDIA
GRAND DESIGNS:
INDIA’S MOST
OPULENT HOTELS
There are nice hotels, and t hen t here are
act ua l pa laces. Here are some of our favour ite
una shamed ly spect ac u lar places to st ay f rom t wo
of India’s most famous hoteliers: Taj Hotels and
Oberoi Hotels.
BE THE ENV Y OF FILM BUFFS GO HALVES WITH ROYALT Y
IN A FLOATING PAL ACE IN A MAMMOTH PAL ACE
WHERE? Taj Lake Palace, WHERE? Taj Umaid Bhawan
Udaipur Palace, Jodhpur
Suspended in the middle of Lake The word hotel doesn’t do Umaid
Pichola, this former prince’s Bhawan Palace justice. Its size
playground is pure magic. It’s would be more appropriate for a
worth every penny if you’re after parliament building and the main
a slice of authentic Indian royalty, lounge could house a cathedral.
Stay in the from the rose petal welcome to It’s so unbelievably grand that
Maharaja of
Jaipur’s home
the above-and-beyond level of there’s a museum, tours around
on our Classic service. You might recognise the the hotel every day, and a whole
Golden Triangle palace from a certain James Bond other section to the Taj-run hotel
itinerar y p46
film; ask for a copy of Octopussy – where the local royal family live.
– you won’t be the first, we If you’re seeing more of Rajasthan
promise – and it’ll be delivered to (p8), this is how to go all out.
your room, usually with a side of
popcorn. SPEND THE NIGHT IN A
WORK OF HERITAGE ART
CHOOSE PURE LUXURY IN
CENTR AL JAIPUR WHERE? Samode Haveli, Jaipur
The tucked-away feel of this
WHERE? Taj Rambagh Palace, heritage hotel makes it feel even
Jaipur more special. It’s imbued with
This four-poster paradise is a centuries of history that you can
plush city stay on the Golden literally see on its walls; every
Triangle circuit (p8). It’s in the millimetre of the lounge is covered
heart of Jaipur, where you’ll share in fine floral motifs. Each of the 38
the estate with peacocks and the rooms has its own personality and
history of past maharajas. In true the courtyards are delightful to
imperial fashion, staff will move wander around. In the evenings,
heaven and earth for you. It’s they use candlelight to create
no surprise that the likes of Lord enchanting outdoor spaces.
Mountbatten, Prince Charles and
Jackie O have stayed here.
Taj Rambagh Palace, Jaipur
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 15INDIA Luxury hotels
Wake up to Taj
Mahal views
on our Classic
Golden Triangle
itinerar y p46
Umaid
The Oberoi
Bhawan
Amarvilas,
Palace, Agra
Jodhpur
Indulge with
lakeside butler
ser vice on
our Classic
Rajasthan
itinerar y p48
The Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur
16 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsLuxury hotels INDIA
REL A X TO YOUR PERSONAL DO THE JUNGLE IN ST YLE
TAJ MAHAL VIEW
WHERE? The Oberoi Vanyavilas
WHERE? The Oberoi Amarvilas, Wildlife Resort, Ranthambore
Agra This luxury tented camp deserves
At The Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra, all the rave reviews it gets. It’s just
you don’t have to decide between 10 minutes from Ranthambore for
views – which in this case is the spotting striped predators among
difference between a pleasant the leafy greens, the staff are
enough vista or seeing what you attentive but never intrusive and
came to Agra for. This is the only the clawfoot bath sets the tone in
hotel where, whichever room your royally inspired tent.
you’re in, you’ll have views of the
Taj Mahal from your bedroom. FOLLOW FAMOUS FOOTSTEPS
AT A DELHI LEGEND
UNWIND IN AN EPIC
SANCTUARY NEAR JAIPUR WHERE? The Oberoi, New Delhi
Since The Oberoi, New Delhi
WHERE? The Oberoi Rajvilas, reopened its doors it’s like it
Jaipur never missed a beat. Service is
It’s hard to believe how young still just as slick, the oasis-like
Oberoi hotels actually are when spot is still a welcome remedy
they look like this. This romantic from the city chaos and its
masterpiece was built in the style rooftop bar is the place to be on
of a Rajasthani fort and comes a night in Delhi. The food here
Stay in a butler-
ser viced fort complete with peacocks who is also conjured up by Michelin-
on our Classic flounce around the grounds and starred chefs.
Golden Triangle
Oberoi’s signature service.
itinerar y p46
GO HIGH-TECH IN DELHI’S
HIDEAWAY IN A PALACE BY SK YSCR APER CIT Y
LAKE PICHOLA
WHERE? The Oberoi, Gurgaon
WHERE? The Oberoi Udaivilas, This Oberoi pays homage to
Udaipur India’s future, with an ultramarine
This soft buttercream-coloured reflection pool, floor-to-ceiling
palace is splendid in every sense. glass and designer boutiques.
It has the majestic feel of an old It’s close to the airport so it’s the
Indian castle overlooking the perfect spot for your last night in
water, but with happy hindsight’s India before flying home.
well thought-out spaces – this is
why Oberoi hotels are the perfect Add a stay in any of these
choice for Indian palace design palaces to our Classic Golden
with 21st-Century comforts. Triangle (p46), Classic
Rajasthan (p48), The Jungle
Book (p50) or Contrasts of
India (p62) itineraries.
The Oberoi Rajvilas, Jaipur
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 17INDIA Mumbai
MUMBAI:
CIT Y OF DREAMS
A vibrant cit y with soul and plent y of grit, Mumbai is the
home of movie stars, millionaires and humble hard graf ters.
Mumbai is a diamond in the FOOD & DRINK
rough. It’s crammed with Mumbai is big on flavour. Locals
everything it takes to keep are powered by street food snacks
India’s richest city churning, like vada pav (deep-fried veggie
only resting at the well- goodness in a pillowy bun) and
deserved weekend for beach crispy chaat slathered in sweet
time and brunch. This is where and sour chutney. There are lots
the dreamers are. of chic meeting spots for cocktails
and Instagram-friendly small
PEOPLE & PL ACES
plates, and if you’re always the
Mumbaikars (or Bombayites, last to decide what to get, order
depending on who you speak to) a thali. You’ll literally be having it
make this city. Wander around all, on a silver platter with eight
South Mumbai and you’ll find or so different dishes and naan
Bollywood stars hanging out in to scoop it all up. As Mumbai’s
glamorous hotels. At the other weather is set to a constant
end of the spectrum, there are humid, cool down like the locals
barbers running micro shops do with some kulfi (silky Indian
from the pavement and clothes ice cream) or falooda, a milky
are hand-washed on a record- drink that doubles as dessert.
breaking scale at dhobi ghat. After
you’ve seen the highlight reel of HOW & WHEN
places like Marine Drive and the Mumbai is an inspired – and easy Gateway of India & The Taj Mahal Palace
gorgeously Gothic Chhatrapati – addition to any itinerary, with
Shivaji Terminus, meet a local direct flights to and from Delhi,
guide in the early hours for a Kolkata (Calcutta), Goa, Kerala
good, old-fashioned walking and almost every other city in
tour to see a side to the city that India as well as Kathmandu. It’s
most don’t (p11). And there’s the notoriously muggy so it’s best
dabbawalas. If you time it right to avoid the height of summer
(try around 11am at Churchgate (mid-March to May), and the
station), you’ll spot some of following monsoon season ( June
Mumbai’s ‘lunchbox-carriers’, to September). Mumbai’s winter
mid-transit as they shift 130,000- (November to February) is still
odd home-cooked lunches to warm and is the most comfortable
offices every day. It’s the ultimate time for sightseeing.
and original food delivery service.
ADD MUMBAI TO ANY OF OUR ITINER ARIES, LIKE:
The Jungle Book suggested itinerary p50
Classic Golden Triangle suggested itinerary p46
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, Mumbai
18 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsMumbai INDIA
OUR FAVOURITE PL ACES TO STAY IN MUMBAI
TAJ MAHAL PAL ACE TRIDENT NARIMAN POINT ABODE BOMBAY
& TOWER Take in sea vistas and the This boutique hotel is a breath
Pretty enough to stick on Mumbai night-time landmark, of fresh air with just 20 rooms,
a postcard, this turn-of- the Queen’s Necklace, from vintage furniture and a white-
the-century architectural higher-floor rooms at this washed, exposed-brick kind of
masterpiece also comes with a contemporary high-rise on ambience.
modern tower for the best of Marine Drive.
both worlds.
kuoni.co.uk/ kuoni.co.uk/
tajmahalpalaceandtower tridentnarimanpoint kuoni.co.uk/abodebombay
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 19INDIA
ANITA RANI’S GUIDE
TO INDIAN
STREET FOOD
Intr ig ued by street food in India? T V presenter A nit a Rani
t a kes us t hrough her favour ites...
Forget everything you’ve ever WEST COAST & SOUTH INDIA
had at your local takeaway, Over on the west coast in
particularly the nuclear red Mumbai, vada pav is a soft
stuff. The flavours, ingredients buttery roll with a fried spicy
and variety in India will open potato burger in the middle.
up a new world for your taste Dip it into a salty spice mix and
buds. From north to south, this take a bite of a fried green chilli
vast subcontinent’s cuisine at the end for some extra kick.
varies in every state – if you Keep travelling down and you’ll
consider yourself a bit of a discover dosa, a south Indian
foodie then you have to try the delight infused with distinct curry
street food. Each region has its leaf flavours. It’s a dry and spicy
own delights but here are a few potato curry wrapped in a crispy
of my favourites that you can rice flour pancake, often served
find all over India. with sambar (a lentil-based stew)
or coconut and mint chutneys.
NORTH INDIA
KEBABS
Starting in the north, chola
bhatura is a Punjabi classic which If you love meat, try chicken
appears on many street stalls. tikka and seekh kebabs. As with
Tandoori butter chicken, Delhi
This indulgent chickpea curry all street food, go somewhere
is slow cooked with onions and that’s popular and ask locals
spices and served with a bhatura, for the best place. There’s
essentially a deep fried chapatti. nothing like a tandoori chicken
Enjoy with tamarind chutney and tikka cooked over charcoal and
an onion salad. Chaat comes from served with fresh naan, salad
Delhi and generally consists of and delicious minty yoghurt
something crunchy, spicy, tangy chutney. The spicier the better
and sweet together. My favourite for me. Or a seekh kebab, spiced
is pani puri (or gol gappa) – make up mincemeat shaped around a
a little hole in the top of this skewer and cooked in a traditional
deep-fried hollow ball and fill with tandoor or clay oven.
potato, chickpeas and chutney. The
type of chutney varies depending
on where you are, and includes
tamarind and mint.
‘If you consider yourself a
bit of a foodie, t hen you have to
EXPERIENCE INCREDIBLE INDIAN FOOD ON OUR: go to India to tr y t he street food ’
Anita Rani
Contrasts of India - North & South itinerary (p62)
20 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsINDIA
OUR FAVOURITE INDIAN FOODIE EXPERIENCES
OLD DELHI FOOD WALK OLD JAIPUR MARKE T TOUR KOYAMBEDU MARKE T TOUR
Wander local markets and On our Evening Bazaar, Cuisine Chennai’s Koyambedu market
bazaars, encountering an array & Crafts experience, you’ll visit is one of the largest in Asia.
of street food. Pass temples a local bazaar to sample tasty Visit early to see trucks
and mosques and visit a haveli street food, from pakora and unloading fruit, vegetables
(mansion) for a traditional samosa to traditional sweets. and flowers in a kaleidoscope
cooking demonstration. of colours.
kuoni.co.uk/delhi/bazaar kuoni.co.uk/jaipur/bazaar kuoni.co.uk/chennai/market
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 21‘Tyger Tyger burning bright,
In the forests of the night:
What immortal hand or eye,
Dare frame thy fearful symmetry?’
– William Blake
22 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsC a l l 0 13 0 6 747 0 0 0 | w w w . k u o n i . c o . u k 23
INDIA Wildlife Parks
WILDLIFE PARKS:
ON SAFARI IN INDIA
Tales from The Jungle Book are a childhood staple and
in India’s wildlife parks, they leap out from the page.
India’s hectic and sprawling THE SAFARI EXPERIENCE
cities eventually give way to The best time for wildlife spotting
deserts, jungles and rolling is early in the morning and late in
hills where elusive creatures the afternoon as the temperatures
play hide and seek with wildlife will be lower and the animals
watchers. Your India trip could more active. How your safari plays
be all about ticking big cats, out will depend on where you are.
bears, elephants and exotic In Ranthambore, all game drives
birds off your bucket list or are operated by park authorities
part of a longer adventure. and unless you upgrade to a
six-person Jeep, you’ll be in a
INDIA’S WILDLIFE PARKS 20-30 person ‘canter’. We highly
recommend going for a Jeep as
India’s wildlife sanctuaries and
it will be far more comfortable
national parks are scattered
and you won’t be vying for that
throughout the country, from
perfect shot if a tiger does appear. Indian Reef Heron
Kaziranga in the far north-east to
In Central India’s parks, most trips
mountainous Periyar in Kerala’s
will be in a shared Jeep that is
Western Ghats. Some parks are
either owned by the park or the
easy to get to and draw a large
lodge you’re staying at.
crowd, while others need a little
more effort to reach but are a WHEN TO VISIT
whole lot quieter. The range of
Each parks’ core zones are usually
species is as wide as the varying
closed during the monsoon
vibes of India’s cities with lots of
which typically arrives in July.
mammals, birds and reptiles in
They reopen again in early or
each park, but it’s the Bengal tiger
mid-October but the vegetation
that’s the headline act. For many,
will have grown, making it a
Ranthambore is the go-to park
little trickier to spot wildlife.
because it’s so easy to add to a
Some parks are also closed on Indian elephant
tour of the Golden Triangle but for
Wednesday afternoons. The best
fewer crowds and a better chance
time to visit is between February
of a sighting (and particularly if
and April when animals gather
you’re used to East and Southern
around the last remaining water
African safaris), head to the
sources, and the plants, trees and
reserves of Central India. In parks
grasses thin out.
like Bandhavgarh and Kanha,
The Jungle Book dream really
kuoni.co.uk/india/
comes to life. wildlifeparks
Bo Kaap
Bo Kaap
24 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsWildlife Parks INDIA
OUR FAVOURITE
TIGER RESERVES
Our pick of India’s best
w i ld life park s
K ANHA: INSPIR ATION FOR
THE JUNGLE BOOK
The descriptions of Kanha’s sal forests and
wild inhabitants by British writers are said to
have inspired the fables in Rudyard Kipling’s
most celebrated work, The Jungle Book.
BANDHAVGARH: YOUR BEST CHANCE
TO SPOT A TIGER
Small in size but big on wildlife spotting
opportunities, this park has one of the highest
concentrations of tigers in India and is a great
example of how well species conservation
can work. Between game drives, head to the
ancient Bandhavgarh Fort.
PENCH: HOME TO THE
QUEEN OF THE JUNGLE
Ranthambore National Park Tiger sightings are not as common in this
lesser-visited park, but you could be lucky
enough to spot the superstar tiger Collarwali
or one of her many offspring. Down by the
WHERE TO STAY
river, you may see Indian bison, sambar deer
Our featured park lodges put you in the best spot for wildlife viewing
and stalking wild dogs.
but have beautifully secluded settings.
TADOBA: INDIA’S OFF-THE-BEATEN-
TR ACK PARK
KHEM VILLAS, RANTHAMBORE PENCH JUNGLE CAMP, PENCH
BEST FOR: SIMPLICIT Y IN BEST FOR: ECO -FRIENDLY Not so well known outside of India, this is the
THE JUNGLE ADVENTURE park to visit for a true wilderness escape. The
A peaceful spot at the edge of the Just a hop from the park gate but chances of spotting a tiger are some of the
park with thatched cottages and still with the deep-in-the-jungle best in India and leopards and jungle cats also
safari tents surrounded by nature. vibe, this lodge has rooms, suites, commonly show their faces.
cottages and comfy tents.
KANHA EARTH LODGE, KANHA R ANTHAMBORE: A GRE AT ADDITION TO
BEST FOR: RUSTIC LUXURY JAWAI, R AJA STHAN THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE
Tribal-inspired architecture, rustic BEST FOR: LEOPARD
The poster child of India’s tiger reserves,
interior design and high eco SPOTTING
Rajasthan’s Ranthambore is a bucket-list
credentials meet at this hidden- A jaw-dropping Relais & Chateaux
destination that draws the crowds.
away lodge. property, Jawai is one-of-a-kind
tented camp that feels like it’s in
BANDHAV VIL A S,
the middle of nowhere. Hop in a
BANDHAVGARH
4x4 and seek out wild leopards.
BEST FOR: A SENSE OF SPACE
A stay here is all about the See our full range of wildlife park
S E E I N D I A’ S W I L D L I F E P A R K S
spacious villas, proximity to the accommodation at:
Our Jungle Book suggested itinerary (p50) visits
park and incredible food created many of our featured national parks and can
kuoni.co.uk/wildlifeparks/
using home-grown ingredients. hotels
be tailored to include the accommodation and
experiences of your choice.
You can also simply add a stay in Ranthambore to
the Classic Golden Triangle itinerary (p46) for a
taste of the Indian wildlife experience.
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 25INDIA Safari camps and lodges
Upgrade your
Jungle Book
itinerar y p50
Taj Banjaar Tola, Kanha
Samode Safari Lodge
26 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsSafari camps and lodges INDIA
INDIA’S BEST
SAFARI CAMPS &
LODGES
If you t hin k t hat lav ish sa far i lodges are limited
to t he w i ld life-r ich plains of A f r ica, t hin k again.
Enter India’s incredible jungle lodges where but ler
ser v ice, four-poster bed s and exquisite c uisine
tot a l ly en hance your ex per ience.
UNDER CANVAS IN K ANHA SLEEP IN THE TREETOPS
WHERE? Taj Banjaar Tola, Kanha WHERE? Pench Tree Lodge
This safari lodge, which sits in a You don’t quite need to go
90-acre private concession close full-Mowgli to be at one with
to Kanha, exudes rustic luxury nature in Pench National Park,
and comes with that flawless Taj you can just stay in a treehouse at
service. Its 18 tented suites give this one-of-a-kind lodge. Each of
a nod to Africa’s lodges. Split into the six stilted suites is kitted out
two camps of nine tents, they are with air-conditioning, a canopied
slightly elevated to make as little four-poster bed and a deck area
impact to the environment as that keen birders will love. Don’t
possible and have a deck looking miss the chance to spot nocturnal
out to the peaceful Banjaar River jungle dwellers by torchlight on a
and the forest beyond. night trail excursion.
Taj Mahua Kothi
LUXURY TIGER TR ACKING REL AIS & CHATEAU IN
THE JUNGLE
WHERE? Taj Mahua Kothi,
Bandhavgarh WHERE? Samode Safari Lodge,
Just 20 minutes from the park Bandhavgarh
entrance, Taj Mahua Kothi is the It’s all about Relais and Châ-
epitome of jungle indulgence. teaux service, style and – most
Nothing is too much trouble; importantly – cuisine right at the
you’ll have your own butler and edge of one of India’s best tiger
you can choose to have dinner reserves. Let the sounds of the
whenever and wherever. We jungle become the soundtrack
particuarly love a romantic meal to your holiday as you seek out
under the lit-up canopy of the Shere Khan on a game drive, feast
lodge’s Mahua tree. It’s a on a creekside picnic and soak
wonderfully intimate lodge with up the views on your private
just 12 jungle huts. villa’s terrace.
Upgrade your Jungle Book
itinerary (p50) with a stay at
any of these luxe lodges.
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 27I N D I A , N E P A L & B H U TA N H i m a l a y a
THE HIMALAYA:
HILL STATIONS &
HIDDEN KINGDOMS
The ‘abode of snow’ is a land of epic land scapes and
sacred spir it ua lit y. Prepare to feel dwar fed by snow y
summit s t hat have cha l lenged people for cent ur ies.
A vast natural barrier between Everest (known here as
plains and plateau, the Sagarmatha), this is where
Himalaya stretch for over the mountains get seriously
1500 miles, with their natural awe-inspiring. You’ll land in
curve spanning five countries. Kathmandu, a dusty, hectic
If you’re returning to India, capital that is so full of charm and
the mountains mark a change heritage. It’s just a short hop by
of pace, climate and culture; plane to Pokhara, a much more
for those heading to Nepal or tranquil city that sits on the edge
Bhutan, it’s all about finding out of the lake and in the shadow of Darjeeling, India
how people live in the shadow the Annapurna Massif.
of the world’s tallest mountains.
BHUTAN: DR AGON KINGDOM
Mountainous and slightly
INDIA: FOOTHILLS &
mysterious, Bhutan is steeped in
HILL STATIONS
tradition, vibrancy and beauty.
The Indian Himalaya is split into Nowhere else puts the happiness
two regions by Nepal. To the of its people above money or
east, is the holy gateway city of has held on so strongly to its
Amritsar, Dharamsala – the nearest customs. Read more about this
town to the home of the Dalai tiny kingdom on page 30.
Lama – and Shimla, the former
summer capital of the British Raj. BEST TIME TO VISIT
If you’re exploring the Golden There are four seasons in Golden Temple, Amritsar, India
Triangle and want to extend to the the mountains: spring, the
mountains, this is the place to go. summer monsoon, autumn and
Over to the west is Darjeeling, a winter. For the best view of the
mountain town that’s famed for mountains, go after the summer
tea growing that’s easily reached rains in the peak seasons of
from the city of Kolkata. October and November. With
Himalayan rhododendrons and
NEPAL: ROOF OF THE WORLD
chrysanthemums blooming, spring
When you think of the Himalaya is a wonderful time to visit but
it’s highly likely that it’s Nepal as the rains approach, skies can
that will spring to mind. Home to often be cloudy.
eight of the 10 highest mountains
in the world, including Mount kuoni.co.uk/himalaya
kuoni.co.uk/nepal
kuoni.co.uk/bhutan
Kathmandu, Nepal
28 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsH i m a l a y a I N D I A , N E P A L & B H U TA N
OUR FAVOURITE
THINGS TO DO
Our must-do ex per iences in
t he Hima laya
SEE THE CHANGING OF THE GUARD
IN AMRITSAR
The nightly ceremony that marks the closure
of the Wagah road border between India and
Pakistan, also known as the Beating of the
Retreat, draws crowds in their thousands and
is an Amritsar must-see.
TAKE A RIDE ON A TOY TR AIN
IN SHIML A
Built to haul people and produce up to Shimla,
the summer capital of the British Raj, the Toy
Train is the most popular of India’s famous
mountain railways. Hop on board for a short
trip to Taradevi station and back for a flavour
of this heritage route.
SIP ON A CUP OF TE A
IN DARJEELING
The rolling hills of Darjeeling are dotted with
vast estates where the region’s famous floral
tea variety is grown and processed. Plantation
WHERE TO STAY tours will take you out into the fields and
Himalaya accommodation ranges in style from chic city hotels to factories and almost always end with a tasting.
heritage hill station hideaways and rustic tea estates.
TAKE TO THE WATER IN POKHAR A
Spend a peaceful hour out on the Phewa Lake
TAJ SWARNA , AMRIT SAR GLENBURN TE A ESTATE, in Nepal’s second largest city. On a clear day,
BEST FOR: LUXE CIT Y ST YLE DARJEELING you’ll get glimpses of the Annapurna Massif
The Swarna has all the hallmarks BEST FOR: A TEATIME TREAT lofty peaks.
of a modern city hotel – a spa Step back in time at this picture-
with a menu full of signature perfect hotel that’s surrounded by CLIMB UP TO A TIGER’S NEST
experiences, fine dining and chic a sprawling tea estate. As there IN BHUTAN
and comfy rooms and suites. are just eight rooms it will almost Perched on a cliffside, Paro Taktsang – also
feel as if you have this paradise known as Tiger’s Nest – is a magazine
THE OBEROI SUKHVIL A S SPA
spot to yourself. covershot staple. It’s quite a hike up to the
RESORT, CHANDIGARH
temple but what an experience to be part of
BEST FOR: AN OPULENT DWARIK A’S HOTEL,
that iconic image for yourself.
CIT Y RETREAT K ATHMANDU
Palace-like yet purpose built, this BEST FOR: A SENSE OF PL ACE
Punjab-inspired retreat brings the The founder of this luxury
ultra-luxe lifestyle to Chandigarh. heritage hotel saved many antique
windows and wooden carvings
OBEROI WILDFLOWER HALL,
characteristic of Kathmandu and S E E T H E H I M A L AYA
SHIML A , INDIA
made them a feature of the design. These suggested itineraries all feature a stay in
BEST FOR: MAJEST Y IN THE
the Himalaya and can be tailored to include the
FOOTHILLS See our full range of Himalaya
accommodation and experiences of your choice:
If you want a side of views with accommodation at:
Foothills of the Himalaya p52
your exquisite service, this iconic
kuoni.co.uk/himalaya/hotels Kolkatta & the Eastern Himalaya p54
hotel is just the place. End a day
kuoni.co.uk/nepal/hotels Nepal’s Plains & Mountains p56
with dinner at The Restaurant and
Best of Bhutan p58
a whisky at The Cavalry Bar.
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 29B H U TA N H i m a l a y a
ASIA’S SECRET
MOUNTAIN
KINGDOM
In t he L and of t he Thunder Dragon, br ight ly coloured
prayer f lags f lut ter in t he w ind spreading goodw i l l and
positive energ y around t he mount ain land scapes.
As soon as you land, Bhutan’s are held at temples and dzongs
one-of-a-kind nature is clear. In across the country and the
place of an all-glass terminal, whole town or city turns out to
there’s a traditional Bhutanese part in or watch the incredible
building, whitewashed and masked dances. They also receive
adorned with ornate wooden blessings, meet their friends and
windows. This sets the tone family and celebrate the birthday
as you enter a country where of Guru Rinpoche, considered to
tradition and age-old customs are be the ‘second Buddha’.
held in high regard, even as the
trappings of the modern world ARTS AND CR AFTS
slowly trickle in bit by bit. Culture lovers may be surprised
to find that Bhutan is something
of an artistic hot spot. And as
A SPIRITUAL KINGDOM
as you might expect, the focus
One of the most striking things is primarily on keeping the past
about Bhutan is its deeply alive. There’s a real emphasis
ingrained Buddhist faith. This is on the 13 traditional crafts that
a land where monasteries and range from masonry and ironwork Paro Taktsang
temples overlook meandering to paper making, painting and
rivers or cling to the side of weaving. Stop by the National
mountains and the national Institute for Zorig Chusum and
dress is still day-to-day attire. you can see the painting, carving
It’s uncommon to find a town Bhutan festival
and embroidery skills which
without a monastery (known as have been passed down through
a dzong or a goemba) and, like generations.
in neighbouring Tibet and the
mountain communities in Nepal, TR AVELLING IN BHUTAN
prayer flags fly from buildings, Bhutan’s carefully controlled
chortens and prayer wheels and approach to tourism is a case
span rivers and streams. of high value, low volume
which makes travel here seem
COLOURFUL CELEBR ATIONS
expensive. But this extra cost
The tenth day of the lunar month includes most transport, all
is a significant day in Bhutan’s meals, standard sightseeing, fees,
calendar. Festivals (or Tschechus) permits and taxes.
SEE ASIA’S SECRET MOUNTAIN KINGDOM ON OUR:
Best of Bhutan suggested itinerary p58
30 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsH i m a l a y a B H U TA N
OUR FAVOURITE PL ACES IN BHUTAN
THIMPHU PUNAKHA BUMTHANG
This is Bhutan’s capital and A real natural beauty, Bhutan’s Way out east, this lesser-
the place the modern world former capital has some of the visited region takes a bit of
has made its biggest impact. finest Himalayan views as well time to reach but gives you an
Each autumn, the country’s as an impressive temple. To unbeatable insight into rural
largest Tschechu is held at the reach Punakha from Thimphu, life in Bhutan. It’s also home
Tashichho Dzong and attracts you’ll travel across the to the country’s oldest temples
an audience thousands strong. spectacular Dochula Pass. and monasteries.
Visit Thimpu on our Best of Visit Punakha on our Best of
Bhutan itinerary p58 Bhutan itinerary p58 kuoni.co.uk/bhutan
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 31‘Live as if you were to die
tomorrow, learn as if you
were to live forever’
– Mahatma Gandhi
32 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsC a l l 0 13 0 6 747 0 0 0 | w w w . k u o n i . c o . u k 33
INDIA Kerala
KERALA: GOD’S
OWN COUNTRY
The st ate of Kera la is a l l about back waters, beaches
tea-cloa ked hi l ls and Sout h Indian spir it ua lit y.
North India’s cities may be that they’ve taken the best bits
exhilarating but Kerala’s and created something of a
landscapes and easy-going super cuisine. Fill an appam (a
attitude soothe the soul.It’s crepe-style bowl) with a veggie
hard to pinpoint when and stew that’s flavoured with fresh
where you’ll be at your most coconut milk and a multitude
relaxed during your time in of spices, or try Karimeen
Kerala. It will probably be as Pollichathu: pearl spot fish baked
the water laps at the hull of in a banana leaf.
your backwaters boat, as you
doze beneath bending palms WELLBEING
with the Arabian Sea waves If you’ve ticked off all the sights
providing the backing track, of the Golden Triangle and want Vembanad Lake
or while you’re savouring the to slow the tempo down to almost
cool mountain breeze and a standstill, Kerala’s the place. You
Kochin (Cochin)
life-enriching views in the can’t beat the home of Ayurveda
high-up hill stations of the if you want to take the weight
Western Ghats. off your feet and mind (read
more about this ancient healing
tradition on p40). CGH Earth’s
MULTICULTUR AL KOCHIN
unique eco-focused hotels like
Making your way through Fort Brunton Boatyard in Kochi and
Kochi (Cochin) and Mattancherry Coconut Lagoon in Kumarakom
is a bit like taking a short journey each have a spa with Ayurveda-
around the globe. Settlers and based treatments.
traders from home and abroad
have left their mark on this WHEN TO VISIT
peninsula where the Indian Ocean December to February is the
meets Kerala’s famous waterways. driest yet busiest time in Kerala;
Jain temples share the same between March and May it starts
streets as synagogues, mosques, to get hot and humid and rainfall
churches, Portuguese palaces and increases. Travelling during peak
Dutch-built bungalows. Kochi is monsoon season ( June to August)
like a tapestry that’s been created isn’t recommended but head here
by all of its many incomers. in September and you’ll arrive to
beautifully renewed landscapes
FOOD & DRINK cloaked in glowing greenery.
In Kerala, the ‘Land of Spices’, the
cuisine has been influenced from kuoni.co.uk/kerala
far and wide as well as a little
closer to home. You could say
Bo Kaap
Munnar
Bo Kaap
34 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsKerala INDIA
OUR FAVOURITE
THINGS TO DO
Our must-do ex per iences
in Kera la
E XPLORE KOCHI ON
T WO WHEELS
Old Kochi’s blend of architectural styles is
famously eclectic and you’ll want to see it
in all its glory. On two wheels you can cover
ground more quickly, seeing the main sights
and also exploring hidden side streets.
CRUISE THE KER AL AN
BACK WATERS
Drifting slowly along the backwaters in a
houseboat tops many Kerala must-do lists. It’s
a great way to see what life is like along the
banks of this watery world.
SE ARCH FOR WILDLIFE IN
PERIYAR NATIONAL PARK
From Spice Village, head out on a trek in the
national park. You’ll learn about the park’s
animals and plant life from your guide, a
member of a local tribal community who has
grown up in this unique environment.
WHERE TO STAY
VISIT A TE A PL ANTATION
Kerala’s accommodation is rich in heritage and gives you a real sense
IN MUNNAR
of place whether it’s in the city, by the water or up in the hills.
Head into the hills to see meandering lines
of tea plants covering the hills in swathes of
BRUNTON BOAT YARD, KOCHI SPICE VILL AGE, THEKKADY green and see the process of tea making from
BEST FOR: WATERFRONT BEST FOR: SUSTAINABILITY & plant to cup at museums and plantations.
LUXURY EXOTIC FLAVOURS
A CGH Earth hotel with a This CGH Earth hotel, which sits RE TRE AT TO THE COA ST FOR AN
waterfront setting, Victorian style up in the Western Ghats, embraces AYURVEDA TREATMENT
and calming atmosphere. the state’s ‘Land of Spice’ tag. Niraamaya Retreats Surya Samudra (p39) is
Thatched bungalows create the our top spot for mindful living and immersive
TAJ MAL ABAR RESORT &
vibe of a Manan village and spice Ayurveda programs. At each of the CGH Earth
SPA , KOCHI
plants grow in the gardens. hotels, you can try muscle-melting treatments
BEST FOR: GREAT FACILITIES
influenced by ancient healing practices.
Across the water from Fort Kochi, 4 WINDERMERE ESTATE,
on the tip of Willingdon Island, this MUNNAR
resort is a great spot if you want a BEST FOR: MOUNTAIN VIEWS
few dining options and that famed In the shadow of forest-green
Taj hospitality. mountain peaks and with views
for days, this lodge is a landscape
COCONUT L AGOON,
lover’s dream. It’s also a top spot
KUMAR AKOM HOW TO SEE KERALA
for tea aficionados as it has its
BEST FOR: L AKESIDE These suggested itineraries visit Kerala and can
own traditional Keralan tea shop.
HERITAGE be tailored to include the accommodation and
This peaceful CGH Earth hotel is experiences of your choice:
See our full range of Kerala
one of our favourites in Kerala. Its Enchanting Kerala p60
accommodation at:
spot on Vembanad Lake can’t be Contrasts of India – North & South p62
beaten and it has its own network kuoni.co.uk/kerala/hotels
of waterways.
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 35INDIA Beaches
GOLDEN SHORES:
INDIA’S BEST
BEACHES
Whet her it ’s to slow t he pace, sa lute t he sun, sw im
or retreat to t he spa, India’s beaches tempt you to st ay
in t he countr y a lit t le bit longer.
For us, time on India’s beaches restaurants, bars, clubs and beach
is all about taking a bit of a parties, night markets and hotels
breather after a large quota sitting side by side. Recent law
of culture. If you’ve ticked off changes have taken the edge off
the all-important sights of the the festivities a little (drinking
Golden Triangle, Rajasthan and alcohol in public places, including
beyond and need a moment the beaches, is now banned) but
to reflect, head to the golden the sun, sea and sand atmosphere
shores of Goa or Kerala. will always draw the crowds.
KOVAL AM
SOUTH GOA
We love the beach resort of
The beaches and fishing villages Kovalam, a former stop on the
of South Goa are the ultimate 1970s hippie trail, for the sense of
switch-off spot. It’s also the place place it gives you. The hotels tend
we suggest heading to after time to have Ayurveda spas, sunrise
in Northern India, the wildlife yoga sessions to start the day
parks of Central India, Nepal and restaurants serving locally
or Bhutan as it’s so simple to inspired food; the catch-of-the- Goa
reach: by air it’s just two and a day dishes couldn’t be any fresher.
half hours from Delhi and one We also like that it’s only 20
hour from Mumbai. Once you get minutes from Trivandrum airport,
here, there’s little more to do so it makes an effortless add-on
than settle down on one of the to the end of a Kerala itinerary.
breathtaking beaches with a book
and a bottle of Kingfisher. MAR ARI BEACH
As it’s just a short drive from
NORTH GOA
Alappuzha (Alleppey), the gateway
Seclusion and complete rest to the backwaters, Marari Beach is
and relaxation aren’t everyone’s another great place to delay your
cup of tea. If you prefer a lively return home from Kerala. There’s
nightlife scene and good value a bit more of a local feel here than
accommodation, North Goa might in Goa or Kovalam, with quieter
be more your style. This is Goa beaches and working fishing
of your imagination: beachfront villages scattered along the shore.
ADD AN INDIA BEACH STAY TO OUR:
Classic Rajasthan suggested itinerary (p48) – South Goa
Enchanting Kerala suggested itinerary (p60) – Kovalam
36 In store | Selected John Lewis & Partners | In travel agentsBeaches INDIA
ALTERNATIVE PL ACES TO REL A X IN INDIA
Kovalam
KUMAR AKOM, KER AL A UDAIPUR, R AJA STHAN MUNNAR, KER AL A
Everything has real laid-back The palace-like Oberoi Fresh mountain air, awesome
quality in Kerala’s backwaters Udaivillas (p16) in its scenery, serenety and freshly
(p34) and there’s nowhere waterfront spot in Udaipur is picked tea are all good for the
quite like a stay at CGH Earth’s the perfect place to kick back soul. Secure your spot at the
Coconut Lagoon near the following a full-on adventure Windermere Estate, a heritage
lakeside village of Kumarakom around the cities of Rajasthan. planters’ bungalow in the
to feel its soothing effects. heart of Munnar (p34).
kuoni.co.uk/kerala kuoni.co.uk/udaipur kuoni.co.uk/kerala
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 37INDIA Beaches
Niraamaya –
a perfect
addition to our
Enchanting
Kerala itinerar y
p60
Niraamaya Retreat Kovalam
The Leela Goa –
an ideal end to
a busy itinerar y
like The Jungle
Book p50
The Leela Goa
38 In store | Selected John Lewis stores | In travel agentsBeaches INDIA
THE MOST
INCREDIBLE BEACH
HOTELS IN INDIA
The beaches of Goa and Kova lam are scat tered w it h
so many g reat hotels and retreat s t hat t he choice
may seem over whelming. A nd t his isn’t t he k ind
of place you want any t hing t a x ing your mind too
much. We’ve picked our go-to beach-hideaway spot s
to help you ma ke t hat a l l-impor t ant decision.
THE LEEL A GOA, SOUTH GOA TAJ FORT AGUADA RESORT
& SPA , NORTH GOA
BEST FOR: A luxe beach retreat
At our favourite India beach BEST FOR: Heritage & sea views
hotel it’s all about the sprawling This popular Taj resort’s setting
tropical gardens, serene stretch within the walls of a 17th-Century
of gold sand and nothing’s-too- Portuguese fort elevate it both
much-trouble service. There’s a literally and metaphorically: it’s a
12-hole pitch-and-putt golf course bit of a haven away from the busy
that sits between the resort and beach and it has great views along
the incredible beach and a spa the coast all the way up to the
where Ayurveda and Eastern- back-packer favourite, Calangute.
inspired treatments fill the menu. Add a stay at Taj Fort Aguada
The Taj
Add a stay at The Leela Goa to Resort & Spa to our Classic
Exotica – A
f itting follow up our Jungle Book itinerary p50 Golden Triangle itinerary p46
to a trip around
the Golden
TAJ EXOTICA RESORT & SPA, NIR A AMAYA RETREATS
Triangle
p46 SOUTH GOA SURYA SAMUDR A, KOVAL AM
BEST FOR: A mix of Portuguese BEST FOR: Total rest and
and Goan style rejuvenation
When you add the impeccable Taj This is where we go to really
service to an enviable setting on get away from it all. The pace
a quieter stretch of Goan coast, of life here is unhurried and
you get one of the area’s most there’s a focus on wellness; a
exclusive resorts. We know you’ll little relaxation and indulgence
love the Portugal-meets-Goa will be just what the Ayurvedic
style that’s typical of the state, doctor ordered after a non-stop
the simple yet chic rooms and India adventure. There’s nothing
swinging in a hammock in the quite like starting the day at
shade of a palm tree. Add a stay the oceanfront yoga pavilion
at Taj Exotica Resort & Spa for a sunrise stretching session.
to our Classic Rajasthan Add a stay at Niraamaya
itinerary p48 Retreats Surya Samudra to our
Enchanting Kerala itinerary p60
Taj Exotica Resort & Spa
Call 01306 747000 | www.kuoni.co.uk 39INDIA Kerala & Goa
AN INSIGHT INTO
AYURVEDA
Dow n in Kera la you’ l l discover t he ‘Mot her of a l l
medicines’, specia lising in hea lt h, hea ling and har mony.
Over 5000 years ago, Indian is longevity, even short-term
monks realised that preserving therapies can relieve stress,
their health would help increase flexibility and enhance
them meditate and develop quality of sleep.
spiritually. Since then,
balancing our physical and AYURVEDA IN INDIA
emotional state has been at the Kerala is the home of Ayurveda,
heart of Ayurveda, a medicine which makes it a great reason to
whose Sanskrit translation travel here, but you don’t have to
means ‘knowledge of life’. go all in. Many people try Ayurvedic
treatments at their hotel spas just
to get a flavour and still enrich their
WHAT IS AYURVEDA?
holidays. At Niraamaya Retreats
Ayurveda comes from the Indian Surya Samudra, Kovalam (p38),
subcontinent and is known as the try the ‘four hands’ Abhyanga, an
sister science of yoga. It focuses indulgent warm oil massage by
on the five elements – earth, two therapists that’s followed by a
wind, water, fire and space – and steam bath. For added authenticity,
how they blend together to form go for the traditional wooden ‘droni’
three biological energies, or table. Further up the coast at The
doshas – Vata, Pitta and Kapha. Leela Goa (p38), enjoy a modern
These three energies reflect take on Abhyanga combined with
our body types, personalities the famous ‘Shirodhara’, where Spa at Niraamaya Retreats Surya Samudra, Kovalam
and spirits, and we each have a soothing oils are slowly poured
unique mix of them in different onto your forehead.
proportions. The key to Ayurveda
is finding your dominant dosha WELLBEING ESCAPES
and leading a lifestyle which helps For a more immersive Ayurveda
keep all three balanced. holiday experience, choose a
Wellbeing Escapes hotel. We’re
SOME AYURVEDA MY THS
proud to partner with the UK’s
A common misconception is that largest specialist spa and wellness
it’s all about oils and massages; holiday company, and you can
these are important in Ayurvedic pick from a selection of hotels
treatments, but in reality finding which pride themselves on
balance begins with our lifestyle Ayurvedic principles.
and diet. Another is that the
benefits take a long time to kuoni.co.uk/wellness-holidays
appear – while a main objective
EXPERIENCE A TASTE OF AYURVEDA IN
SOUTH INDIA ON OUR:
Enchanting Kerala itinerary (p60)
Ayurveda therapy
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