EASTER RENOWNED ITALIAN WINES 30 NEW WINES IN STORES - APRIL 3 AND 17
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APRIL
2014
EASTER
SAVOURING
NEW YORK
RENOWNED
ITALIAN WINES
30 NEW WINES
IN STORES
APRIL 3 AND 17
IN STORES
APRIL 3 AND 17
30 newly arrived wines.
DIRECTOR – SPECIALTY PRODUCTS BUSINESS UNIT – SAQ
CONTENTS
Michel-André St-Jean
MANAGER FOR SPECIALITY PRODUCTS, MARKETING – SAQ
Sophie Drouin
PUBLISHER – SAQ
Johanne Morrisseau
CONTRIBUTORS – SAQ
Marie-Lyne Alarie, Michel Beauchamp, Éric Bertoldi, Carl Bessette,
Liette Chaput, François Couture, François Fortier, Pierre Lauzon,
Martin De Lottinville, Marie-Ève Meunier, Catherine Périnet,
APRIL 2014
Julie Perreault, Justin Rouette, Veronica Ruiz, Alain Smith
Médias Transcontinental S.E.N.C.
PUBLISHER – VICE PRESIDENT, CONSUMER SOLUTIONS
Lise Paul-Hus
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Catherine Elie
6 EASTER IN NEW YORK
Taste treats in the Big Apple.
ART DIRECTOR
Renée Grégoire
LIFESTYLE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Josée Larivée
14 TUSCANY TODAY
Life after the Supertuscans.
EDITORIAL STAFF
20 COLLECTORS’ CORNER
Catherine Bergeron, Myriam Huzel, Pascale Navarro
CONTRIBUTORS
Kler-Yann Bouteiller, Rémy Charest, Véronique Rivest
Two Italy enthusiasts.
COPY EDITORS
22 GLOBAL GRAPES
Joan Irving, Donna Jensen
TRANSLATOR
PHOTO: LOUISE SAVOIE.
Felicity Munn Médoc, Australia and the Okanagan.
ART
Graphic artists
QUEBEC TERROIR
28 DOMAINE ST-JACQUES
Christiane Gauthier, Julie Larocque, Davor Nikoli
CENTRE D’EXCELLENCE EN ÉDITION MULTIPLATEFORME (CEEM)
Sylvain Renaud (General Manager) Passion and potential.
Robert Bourcier (Production Manager, Advertising and Coordination)
ON THE COVER
29 NEW ARRIVALS
Linda Desjardins (Production Coordinator)
Jules Alexandre Obry (Production Manager, Creative and Content) Easter is a perfect opportunity for getting together over
514-845-2211
Details on our specially a casual meal and savouring new wines in good company.
ADVERTISING SALES
Sabrina Boucher – SAQ selected new releases.
514-254-6000, ext. 5115
SAQ CUSTOMER SERVICE
Montreal area: 514-254-2020
Elsewhere in Quebec: 1-866-873-2020
PRINTING
TC Imprimeries Transcontinental, a division of Imprimeries Transcontinental S.E.N.C.
All correspondence should be addressed to: 1100 René-Lévesque Blvd. West,
24th Floor, Montreal, Quebec, H3B 4X9, CANADA. Telephone: 514-392-9000
cellier@tc.tc
CELLIER NEW ARRIVALS, published eight times a year, is produced and published by
TC media (www.tc.tc), in association with the following SAQ departments: Marketing;
UPCOMING EVENTS
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undeliverable addresses to CELLIER, 905 De Lorimier, Montreal, Que. H2K 3V9. • SALON DES VINS DE LA BORÉALIE – SAINT-FÉLICIEN – APRIL 24
• SALON DES VINS DU SUROÎT – VALLEYFIELD – APRIL 25
Limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following
the release of products. Prices are subject to change without notice.
April 2014 3
FABULOUS FINDS OF ALL KINDS
MORE ACCESSIBLE THAN YOU THINK
MUST-TRY SELECTIONS
Affordable prices, New arrivals
starting at $14.00 every two weeks
Wines identified Products in
by taste tags limited quantities
New York Hot Spots
BITING INTO THE BIG APPLE
The rooftop bar at 230 Fifth
on Fifth Avenue offers dramatic
vistas of the Empire State
Building and Manhattan.
At Easter the streets of Manhattan are jam-packed with
Quebecers. With food and wine from all over the globe crowding
its menus, New York is always a fantastic feast for the senses.
Pastis, a French bistro in
the Meatpacking District,
is a popular Manhattan
spot for drinks or
dining. It shot to fame
when Carrie Bradshaw
(Sarah Jessica Parker)
ate there in an episode
of the seminal TV show
Sex and the City.
W
hat a delight it is to be in New York City in Jules Dressner, a wine importer whose family firm,
PHOTOS: ATLANTIDE PHOTOTRAVEL/CORBIS (LEFT PAGE); STEFANO AMANTINI/SIME (PASTIS).
spring, walking the busy streets, exploring Louis/Dressner, is one of the most respected in the
the parks, visiting the museums, going to industry in the United States, grew up in New York
the theatre and browsing the shops before and came to Montreal for university. For him, New York’s
settling in at a stylish restaurant or wine bar. culinary-cultural diversity is on a whole other level than
Whatever your preferences in food, wine and Montreal’s. “It’s just scratching the surface to say that
cocktails, biting into the Big Apple will fit the bill. Rock there’s Japanese, Korean, Italian and French. Many
and rap permeate wine bars like Ten Bells and Terroir, restaurants offer very specific regional specialties – the
while food takes a healthy turn in boldface restaurants cuisine of Emilia-Romagna or Guangdong, for example.
like Rouge Tomate and Contra that leave you satiated In some ways New York is defined not by its own cuisine
but not stuffed. but by the cuisine of the entire world.” In the same way,
“No matter how often you go, there’s never enough time the entire globe is represented on New York wine lists.
to try all the places you want to try,” says Ryan Gray, co- Every imaginable region is available somewhere in the
owner of Nora Gray in Montreal’s Griffintown and a big fan city, from the rarest Burgundy crus to little-known Italian
of Brooklyn and Manhattan eateries. “The creativity and zones to Switzerland and Canada. Or, say, Austria, as
scope of New York’s restaurant scene is incredibly exciting at Edi & The Wolf in the East Village, specializing in
and some places are mind-boggling, thanks to apparently Austrian food and wine. Not finding a bottle you’ll love
limitless concept and design budgets.” in New York? Not possible!
April 2014 7
BITING INTO THE BIG APPLE (CONTINUED) Left: sommelier Michael Madrigale in the Bar Boulud wine cellar. Top right: Bar Boulud. Bottom right: Quebec expat Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly, chef and co-owner of Fedora and Chez Sardine, with Danielle Stulman, Chez Sardine manager. QUEBEC ACCENTS and of the M. Wells Steakhouse, a cult restaurant You even find Quebec food in New York – and that has Manhattan foodies flocking to Long Island not just poutine, beloved by many a Brooklyn City in Queens. Brunet-Benkritly is the chef and hipster. Several Quebec chefs have made a name co-owner of two hot West Village establishments, for themselves in the Big Apple. After honing his Fedora and Chez Sardine, whose playful – and very craft at Montreal’s Toqué!, Riad Nasr went on to Montreal – approach to food has beguiled restaurant co-found several high-profile eateries in downtown reviewers and attracted a young, adventurous Manhattan, including the Minetta Tavern, Pastis clientele. and the famed Balthazar, a French brasserie that’s Brunet-Benkritly says that in the New York still hugely popular after 17 years. Noah Bernamoff, restaurant business, the stakes and stress are right meanwhile, named his two New York restaurants up there with the budgets and intense competition. Mile End in a nod to his Montreal youth. And while the possibilities may seem limitless, in A couple of Au Pied de Cochon veterans, Hugue some regards they’re not. “You have to be cautious Dufour and Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly, also get lots of about going off the beaten path,” he observes. “For buzz in restaurant columns. Dufour is the owner of example, they’re not big on offal here. New York is the M. Wells Dinette, at the Museum of Modern Art, actually more conservative than Montreal.” 8 April 2014
BROOKLYN BOUND
New York has everything – far too
much to do in one visit! After the
obligatory stop at Times Square, how
to narrow down the options? Get out
of Manhattan, that’s how. The sky-high
rents in Manhattan are prompting some
exceptionally creative restaurateurs
to relocate to Brooklyn’s revitalized
neighbourhoods. Dumbo (an acronym
for Down Under the Manhattan Bridge
Overpass) and Williamsburg, for
example, boast a bohemian atmosphere
and numerous nifty bars and restos
focused on local and organic foods,
not to mention awesome views of the
Manhattan skyline. The insider advice:
Go for funky Asian revisited, be it
the quirky variations at one of chef
David Chang’s Momofuku group of
restaurants or the out-there sushi
at Brunet-Benkritly’s Chez Sardine.
The Brooklyn Bridge and, beyond it, the city that never sleeps.
DANIEL KRIEGER (D. STULMAN, M. BRUNET); RICHARD TAYLOR/4CORNERS/SIME (BRIDGE).
PHOTOS: FRANCK PRIGNET/FIGAROPHOTO (M. MADRIGALE, BAR BOULUD);
MUTUAL ADMIRATION SOCIETY simplicity you find in my hometown of Philadelphia
Belly up to the bar in any trendy Montreal restaurant, and the exciting, eccentric quality that New York
and chances are you’ll find a New York chef, has.” Whenever Madrigale comes to Montreal, he
sommelier or foodie also checking out the place. heads straight for L’Express, to be enchanted once
Back home they have one of the most vibrant again by its authenticity, warmth – and wine list.
restaurant scenes imaginable, so what are they It may seem surprising that one of Manhattan’s
doing here? most renowned sommeliers comes here to drink wine,
New Yorkers like the friendly atmosphere of but he and many of his colleagues are impressed by
Montreal restos, the exceptional quality of the local the quality of Montreal wine lists. “Because Quebec
products, the creative menus – and the unique is a significant wine market, especially for France
cultural experience served up by this city. “Montreal and Italy,” says local restaurateur Gray, “we get just
has a great energy to it,” exclaims Michael Madrigale, as good a supply of certain rare cuvées as New York
the sommelier at New York’s Bar Boulud and Boulud does. So New Yorkers are thrilled to see those
Sud. “It’s like a combination of the unpretentious special wines on our wine lists.”
April 2014 9
IN STORES
APRIL 3 AND 17
APRIL 17
EASTER PAIRINGS À LA NYC APRIL 17
Easter meals often feature very diverse
dishes, but even so, the food-wine pairings
can be kept fairly simple.
UNITED STATES FRANCE
CHARLES SMITH, VINCENT CARÊME VOUVRAY SEC
CHARLES & CHARLES 2012,
COLUMBIA VALLEY • With brunch 2012, VOUVRAY SEC
$25.35 11633612, 750 ML,
$17.60 12156029, 750 ML, Pascaline Lepeltier, head sommelier at Manhattan’s Michelin- 13% ABV
13.5% ABV starred Rouge Tomate, advises keeping it simple: “Trying NUMBER OF CASES: 280
NUMBER OF CASES: 504 to be original at any cost is futile.” At the top of her list are A Vouvray in which Chenin’s
Like its creator, winemaking Beaujolais and “fruity Pinot Noirs” (such as the Morgons fruity and floral notes come
star Charles Smith, this cuvée and the red and rosé Burgundies in our New Arrivals section). through nicely. A tour de force
has a rock-and-roll personality. And there are always sparkling wines, “especially if there from a vintage hit by hail.
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, are egg dishes,” notes The New York Times wine critic GRAPE: CHENIN
SYRAH
Eric Asimov.
AROMAS AROMAS
RASPBERRY PASTRIES,
CANDY, FRUIT PUNCH • With a traditional Easter dinner CANDY APPLE, WHITE
FLOWERS, HONEY, MELON
ACIDITY – MODERATE When ham is the centrepiece, a light red can be the way to ACIDITY – MODERATE
go, but so can a white like Château Pégau (see page 13) that
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY has good presence in the mouth, or a lighter but nicely acidic SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM white like the Vincent Carême Vouvray. With leg of lamb BODY – LIGHT
cooked rare, experts recommend reds that have personality,
PALATE – GENEROUS mainly Syrahs but also cuvées made from Bordeaux grapes. PALATE – DELICATE
WOOD – EVIDENT As luck would have it, Charles & Charles, a Cab-Syrah blend, WOOD – UNOAKED
combines both.
10 April 2014A Côtes du Rhône such as the excellent
Château Pégau (next page) would pair nicely with
this ham, as would Domaine Vincent Carême’s dry
and light Vouvray (opposite page).
NEW YORK-STYLE
EASTER HAM
INGREDIENTS
1 ham, bone in, 3 to 4 kg
(6 1/2 to 8 lb)
2 bay leaves
1 onion, cut in half RECIPE AT SAQ.COM
PHOTOS: TANYA ZOUEV/STOCKFOOD (LAMB); RECIPE: DANA DOROBANTU, PHOTOGRAPHER; WILLIAM COLE, ASSISTANT.
4 litres (16 cups) apple juice
30 mL (2 tbsp) Dijon mustard 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Preparation: 30 minutes Cooking: 3 1/2 h + 20 minutes resting
30 mL (2 tbsp) molasses
10 mL (2 tsp) sweet smoked paprika DIRECTIONS
STEP 1 STEP 4
Coleslaw Place the ham, bay leaves and onion in a Pour two cups of the cooking juice into the
large, deep pot. Pour in enough apple juice to bottom of the broiler pan. Cook the ham on
1 green cabbage, thinly sliced
FOOD STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY. ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON.
cover the meat. Bring to a boil, lower heat and the middle oven rack for two hours, basting
(about 6 to 7 cups) leave to simmer, covered, for 90 minutes. every 30 minutes.
125 mL (1/2 cup) tarragon leaves
STEP 2 STEP 5
125 mL (1/2 cup) mint leaves
Preheat the oven to 175ºC (350ºF). Remove the ham from the oven and let rest
125 mL (1/2 cup) chervil leaves for 20 minutes before slicing.
STEP 3
125 mL (1/2 cup) basil leaves
Transfer the ham to a broiler pan, preserving STEP 6
4 green apples, julienned the cooking juice. In a small bowl, combine the Meanwhile, make the coleslaw: In a bowl,
and sprinkled with the juice mustard, molasses and paprika. Brush this combine all ingredients and season with salt
and zest of 1 lemon mixture on the ham.* and pepper, to taste. Serve with the ham.
45 mL (3 tbsp) grape-seed oil
*Ham Variation. Alternatively, you can brush this mixture on the ham before baking: 30 mL (2 tbsp) mustard
Salt and freshly à l’ancienne, 30 mL (2 tbsp) honey, 10 mL (2 tsp) fresh chopped rosemary.
ground pepper
April 2014 11QUIRKY NEW YORK
Punk music and other oddities enliven the Big Apple’s wine scene.
ROBERT DE NIRO, WINE CRITIC VEGGIE VERMOUTH
Robert De Niro loves films and he Mixology is a thriving art in Manhattan
loves New York; he’s the founder and Brooklyn bars, where the most
of the Tribeca Film Festival (April 16 popular ingredients include some
to 27 this year). He also loves wine, amazing local vermouths. Especially
especially when it’s made by his distinctive are those by Brooklynite
friend Francis Ford Coppola. In Bianca Miraglia of Uncouth Vermouth.
a speech at the 2010 Oscars, They’re made from, would you believe,
presenter De Niro praised Coppola’s beets, hops or butternut squash.
wines as fervently as he did his
films – and called Robert Parker
a bad word for having given a
Coppola cuvée a mere 90 points.
You talkin’ to me?
BACKYARD BEAUTIES
New Yorkers have access to wines
from around the world – and to
about 40 wineries located in their
own backyard, a.k.a. Long Island.
On weekends, city dwellers head there
to taste the offerings, on the hunt for
PHOTOS: GUY WOLF/EPA/CORBIS (DE NIRO) ; MAUDE CHAUVIN (L. FÉRAUD).
the region’s fresh white wines and
elegantly age-worthy Merlots. CHÂTEAU WAREHOUSE
An industrial building in the
VIRTUOSO VIBE trendier-than-thou neighbourhood
of Williamsburg is now home
At über-cool New York wine bar Pearl to an excellent wine producer.
& Ash, patrons sip old vintages of the Brooklyn Oenology crafts 10 wines
great Bordeaux chateaux to the sounds from grapes purchased from local
of punk and new wave. The sommelier, vineyards, and also has a tasting
Patrick Cappiello, adds to the offbeat room where the public can sample
atmosphere by sabering champagne its wares plus other products from
while standing on top of the bar. around New York State.
12 April 2014BEHIND THE WINE LAURENCE FÉRAUD
CHÂTEAU PÉGAU
AT A GLANCE
In early 2012, the Féraud family
acquired a 41-hectare property a
few kilometres south of Domaine
du Pégau, their renowned
Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate.
A one-time staging ground for
changing the horses that pulled
Rhône River barges, the property
has an excellent terroir of galets
roulés (large, round pebbles) and
is planted with both red and white
grape varieties.
Château Pégau, as it was renamed,
produces a line of accessible wines
in the Côtes du Rhône and Côtes
du Rhône-Villages appellations, as
well as in the vin de table category.
• Her backstory In 1987 Laurence Féraud, fresh from
completing her winemaking studies, began working with her
father, Paul, at the family winery, breathing new life into the
business. Soon thereafter, Domaine Féraud was rechristened
Domaine du Pégau, new cellars were constructed and Pégau rose APRIL 17
to the top of its appellation. FRANCE
CHÂTEAU PÉGAU, CUVÉE LÔNE
• Her philosophy Like her father, she favours a traditional 2012, CÔTES DU RHÔNE
$18.35 12131489, 750 ML,
approach to winemaking, be it for the domaine’s fine wines or the 12.5% ABV
château’s more modest cuvées. For example, she opts for whole- NUMBER OF CASES: 150
bunch fermentation for all the reds, which gives the wines extra GRAPES: CLAIRETTE,
smoothness, and she never uses new wood. BOURBOULENC, GRENACHE
BLANC, UGNI BLANC
• Her belief in individuality Nearing 50, Féraud often
comes back to the importance for winemakers of having a AROMAS
distinct identity and well-defined style – one that’s different GREEN APPLE, MINERALITY,
HAY, FRESH GRASS
from everyone else’s. “The strength of Châteauneuf is that we ACIDITY – MODERATE
are 280 vignerons all producing different wines. So there’s no
competition.” SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM
• Her wines Though not lacking in power, Pégau wines are
easy to drink. The whites are fresh and the reds have appealingly PALATE – GENEROUS
rounded angles. Féraud favours complexity and aromas that go WOOD – UNOAKED
well beyond simple fruitiness.Tuscany
AFTER THE REVOLUTION
Setting aside the most fabled and priciest
cuvées, many wines that arose from the so-called
Supertuscan movement are worth investigating.
14 April 2014IN STORES
APRIL 3 AND 17
APRIL 3
WA 92 WS 94
I
taly is one of the world’s biggest wine producers, routinely jostling
with France for the top spot. It also ranks high in terms of numbers
of internationally acclaimed wines, among them Barolo, Amarone
della Valpolicella and Brunello di Montalcino. Wine is produced
in all 20 regions of Italy, in varied terrain and from hundreds of
indigenous grapes, making for an incredibly rich wine-growing mosaic there.
Breathtakingly beautiful, Tuscany is one of Italy’s most revered regions.
Its climate is favourable for viticulture, and grapevines have been grown
there since ancient times. But it is a more varied area than many assume.
The rolling hills create numerous microclimates with different sun exposures,
different gradients and different terroirs. The soils are also diverse, from
tuff, volcanic and sandstone to limestone and clay. The altitude, and with
it the climate, changes with the terrain. In central Tuscany most vineyards
are at between 150 and 500 metres, but in some places they’re as high as
700 metres. The flatter coastal zone is more temperate. Consequently, the
possible grape-soil-climate permutations in Tuscany are endless.
The town of Montalcino is surrounded by
prestige estates turning out some of Tuscany’s
best wines. Pictured, Castello di Argiano.
2020
ITALY
CASANOVA DI NERI,
TENUTA NUOVA 2008,
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
$70.50 10870157, 750 ML,
15% ABV
PHOTOS: STEFANO SCATÀ/SIME (OPPOSITE PAGE); MASSIMO RIPANI/SIME (CASTELLO DI ARGIANO).
NUMBER OF CASES: 560 (6 BOTTLES)
Giacomo Neri, who took over his
father’s estate in 1991, dazzles
with his outstanding cuvées.
This one is velvet in the mouth.
GRAPE: SANGIOVESE
AROMAS
CHERRY, LEATHER,
LICORICE, BASIL, FIG,
ALMOND, MOCHA,
DRIED FLOWERS
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT
April 2014 15IN STORES
APRIL 3 AND 17
AFTER THE REVOLUTION (CONTINUED)
BIRTH OF A SUPERSTAR
Sangiovese is a Tuscan staple, the base grape for many wines, including
Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. But the
TIMELINE second half of the 20th century saw an increase in the use of French grapes
in Tuscany – mainly Cabernet Sauvignon but also Syrah, two Bordeaux
1935 The French model takes shape as varieties. Meanwhile, new winemaking techniques were introduced, notably
appellation systems are set up to guarantee
the use of new French oak barrels. And vineyard areas expanded, with
the authenticity of wines and regulate
more and more vines planted in zones that showed intriguing potential but
production with regard to geographical
were outside existing appellations. It turned out, for example, that Bordeaux
delimitations, yields, permitted grapes,
grapes do well in Bolgheri and that Syrah yields excellent results in
winemaking methods and so on. In the
Montalcino, where Argiano and other producers added it to their vineyards.
wake of the phylloxera and mildew crises,
All of these new wines, however, were made outside DOC/DOCG
and the many subsequent cases of fraud,
regulations. Some went on to become among the most coveted and
the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC)
expensive of all Italian wines, yet carried the simple vino da tavola (table
system is created. It is designed to protect
wine) label. Sassicaia is considered the wine that started the Supertuscan
the origin and quality of the best French
revolution. In the 1940s, the marchese Incisa della Rocchetta, a Bordeaux
wines sourced from specific terroirs and
enthusiast, planted Cabernet Sauvignon in a non-appellation area of the
made with particular methods.
Maremma coastal region. Originally produced for personal consumption,
1960 Twenty-five years later, inspired Sassicaia was first released commercially in 1971. It was designated a vino
da tavola but was of such high quality that it quickly attracted attention.
by the French prototype, Italy sets up its
Other cuvées followed, including Ornellaia and Solaia. In 1978, Decanter
Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC)
organized a competition to pick the best Bordeaux blends, with entrants
appellation system, with occasionally mixed
results. The regulations for the Chianti
appellation, for example, have the effect of
reducing quality rather than enhancing the The rooster has been the Chianti emblem for many centuries, but the quality of these
zone’s best wines. Among other things, the wines is significantly better now than it was prior to the Supertuscan era.
rules require – not permit, but require –
that the wines contain white grape varieties
(a minimum 10 percent and a maximum
30 percent!). While much more productive,
the white grapes dilute the wines.
1971 Marchese Incisa della Rocchetta’s
magnificent Sassicaia is released under
the vino da tavola designation. A first!
1978 Sassicaia takes first place in a
Decanter-sponsored competition to pick
the best Bordeaux blends. The term
Supertuscan is born, launching a craze
that reaches a peak around the year 2000.
1992 Italy creates the Indicazione
Geografica Tipica (IGT) classification,
primarily to bring under some sort of
control the high-quality wines being
produced outside the DOC system.
16 April 2014APRIL 3
WS 89
EASY GOURMET
Osso Bucco 2020
ITALY
ARGIANO, NON CONFUNDITUR
RECIPE AT SAQ.COM 2011, TOSCANA
$22.85 11269401, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
WILLIAM COLE, ASSISTANT. FOOD STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY. ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON.
NUMBER OF CASES: 196
including several Grand Cru Classé wines Pays category. That’s why so many Italian
PHOTOS: STEFANO SCATÀ/SIME (WINEGLASSES). RECIPE: DANA DOROBANTU PHOTOGRAPHER;
from Bordeaux. Sassicaia took the top wines are labelled IGT. Some producers Meaning “unique,” like
Argiano’s remarkable history,
spot. This vino da tavola clearly merited have adopted the IGT classification
Non Confunditur is the estate’s
a more prestigious-sounding descriptor, because their wines do not comply with second label, the first being
and the term “Supertuscan” was coined. DOC/DOCG regulations, others because the famed Solengo.
Supertuscans became media darlings, they think DOC/DOCG appellations are GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
collectors couldn’t get enough of them and governed by political and financial SANGIOVESE, MERLOT, SYRAH
their prices climbed to dizzying heights. considerations rather than quality AROMAS
The Supertuscan phenomenon reached a considerations. Smart young rising BLACKBERRY, SPICES,
peak in the 1990s and 2000s. The term winemaker Bibi Graetz, a big proponent FLOWERS, PLUM, HERBS,
OLIVE, MENTHOL
was applied to all wines produced outside of Tuscan grapes who grows no ACIDITY – MODERATE
appellation rules. In 1992, in a move international varieties, sells his wines
intended to bring some of Italy’s greatest under the IGT classification because he SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
wines into the system, the Italian does not believe that DOCs and DOCGs BODY – MEDIUM
government replaced the vino da tavola are guarantees of quality. Another
denomination with the Indicazione winery, San Fabiano Calcinaia, makes PALATE – GENEROUS
Geografica Tipica (IGT) classification, Chianti Classico DOCG wines but also WOOD – SUBTLE
roughly the equivalent of France’s Vin de grows Cabernet Sauvignon, which it
April 2014 17Harvesting grapes in Bolgheri, blends with a touch of Petit Verdot and all the great Italian wines, they’re made
a relatively modern appellation sells under the IGT denomination. to be enjoyed with food. Depending on the
created 20 years ago to style, they shine with grilled or braised red
accommodate new terroirs. IMAGE AND INNOVATION meats, game dishes and Italian classics like
Clearly, there is no such thing as a osso bucco.
Opposite page: typical IGT Toscana or Supertuscan wine. The wines that inspired the term
Top photo: Artisanal products They’re sourced from different terroirs and Supertuscan were crafted by winemakers
from a farm in Tuscany’s different grapes, made using traditional who had a clear vision and sought to
Maremma region pair perfectly or modern techniques and produced in express their terroir as best as possible.
with Supertuscan wines, creating long-established and emerging zones Though classified as mere table wines,
a lovely tradition-meets- alike. Initially associated with cult – and they became some of the most desirable
innovation match. very expensive – cuvées like Sassicaia, Italian wines of all time. Attracted by their
Bottom photo: The seaport town Ornellaia and Tignanello, IGT Toscana enormous success, many other vignerons
Santo Stefano, also in Maremma. wines now come in every price range. began to produce Supertuscans. All they
What they have in common has more to had to do was make a wine outside the
do with a spirit of innovation than with a appellation system (vino da tavola at
similarity in style. As always, there are first, later IGT) and give it a fancy name
good and not-so-good ones. The main (preferably ending in “aia”), a snazzy
criticism of many of these wines has been label and a high price. These were wines
their excessive new wood, and some are born not of a winemaker’s passion but of a
still strongly oaky. The best are meant to marketing plan. They were generic affairs
reflect their place of origin. The Cabernet that expressed neither place nor tradition
Sauvignon grown in Tuscany may have and could have come from anywhere.
come from Bordeaux, but the excellent Today, the term Supertuscan has lost
wines produced from it are Italian through some of its cachet. Producers no longer
and through: on the rich and ripe side, use it and tend to grimace when their
with garrigue aromas, classic dark-fruit wines are referred to as Supertuscans,
and tobacco impressions, and a special because so many mediocre wines have
something that’s faintly earthy. As with appropriated the name. But positive
18 April 2014IN STORES
APRIL 3 AND 17
AFTER THE REVOLUTION (CONTINUED)
APRIL 3
WS 89
changes also came about as a result of the
Supertuscan revolution. In addition to the
IGT classification, other appellations were
created – notably Bolgheri in 1994 – to
accommodate new terroirs and techniques.
The regulations for the traditional Chianti
and Chianti Classico appellations were
also amended to remove the compulsory
use of white grapes and allow wines
made from 100-percent Sangiovese. Today’s
Chiantis are markedly superior to those
produced prior to the Supertuscan era.
The quality wines that were spawned
PHOTOS: STEFANO AMANTINI/SIME (VINEYARD); MATTEO CARASSALE/SIME (TABLE); LUCA DA ROS/SIME (PORTO SANTO STEFANO).
by the Supertuscan movement and went
on to survive the craze are definitely
2020 worth trying. At once reflecting terroir,
ITALY tradition and innovation, they helped
SAN FABIANO CALCINAIA,
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, create the image of Tuscany that we
TOSCANA know today.
$26.30 11546914, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 397 (6 BOTTLES)
At once beefy and charming.
Crafted under the supervision
of famed consulting winemaker
Carlo Ferrini.
GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON
AROMAS
EUCALYPTUS, RIPE FRUIT,
BLACKCURRANT, WOOD
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – FULL
PALATE – STRUCTURED
WOOD – EVIDENT
April 2014 19COLLECTORS’ CORNER
ENZO REDA
at restaurant
Brasserie T,
in Montreal.
Reda loves fine
Italian wines
because they’re
made to be
enjoyed with
food, and even
the prestigious
ones can be
uncorked on
casual occasions.
FINE AND FRIENDLY WINES
“I
n Italy, wine is meant to go with This explains why 60-percent of the bottles in his cellar are
food,” says Enzo Reda, co-CEO of from Italy – mainly Tuscany, but with a growing proportion from
Produits Alimentaires Viau, producers Piedmont, in line with his growing taste for that region. In Redo’s
of Fantino & Mondello deli meats. view, opening even one of the finest Italian wines is always
“I learned that very early on, from something that’s very natural. “Maybe it’s because my name is
my father, who made his own wine and always Enzo, but at Christmas, I took along old vintages of Masseto and
had a glass with meals.” Tignanello to go with the turkey and the traditional Italian dish of
As a dedicated collector, Reda is guided by rabbit. I wouldn’t have done that with a Mouton Rothschild!”
his association of wine with good times and It’s equally easy to open the second and third wines of
family dinners. “Like a lot of people, I started Tuscany’s leading estates, he adds. The same goes for wines
with Bordeaux. But the great Bordeaux are so from Sicily, Calabria and other regions that have benefited
hard to get hold of, and so expensive, that you from the Italy-wide rise in quality that’s occurred since the
keep them for formal occasions. Plus, now they’re 1980s. “They’re excellent value for the money and you wouldn’t
making Bordeaux-style blends in Tuscany too!” hesitate to uncork them with pizza.”
20 April 2014AFTER THE REVOLUTION (CONTINUED)
Brisson’s
well-stocked
cellar would
be nirvana for
fans of top
Tuscan wines.
YZABEL BRISSON
at restaurant Impasto, in Montreal.
STELLAR CELLAR Do these exceptional wines appear often on her dinner
H
ow did Yzabel Brisson, the 36-year-old owner table? “Of course we love drinking them, but sometimes it
of the Au Maître Chien pet stores and grooming hurts to open them. On my husband’s birthday this year
salons on the South Shore near Montreal, come I considered uncorking a 1978 Sassicaia because that’s the
to be a collector of Tuscan wines? “I liked year he was born – but in the end, I couldn’t.” When you’ve
full-bodied wines, so that aspect of Tuscany lovingly and patiently amassed a wine collection, the idea
appealed to me even though I didn’t know much about the of parting with a bottle can cause serious heartache.
wines,” she says with disarming honesty. Luckily, Tuscany is replete with good wines that are
Her cellar got off to a stellar start with the wine that’s less rare and less expensive than the most illustrious
considered the original Supertuscan. “I came across Supertuscans and that can be uncorked without angst.
Sassicaia fairly early on,” Brisson recalls with a laugh. It Brisson is planning to further explore Italian wines on a
PHOTOS: LOUISE SAVOIE.
gave her the urge to continue accumulating other illustrious trip to Tuscany this summer after the birth of her first baby,
names (Ornellaia, Tignanello and the like). “At first, I was her pregnancy having put her wine research on hold for the
thinking investment,” she admits. “But I love to cook, and moment. “We’ll visit the big-name wineries, and we’ll also
wine is essential when you’re entertaining.” be on the lookout for rare gems.”
April 2014 21Pauillac, home to Château Pichon-Longueville, is one
of many villages in Médoc, the fabled wine region on
the left bank of the Gironde north of Bordeaux.
APRIL 17
2019
FRANCE
CHÂTEAU LES ORMES SORBET
CRU BOURGEOIS 2009, MÉDOC
$35.00 11654907, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 250
Produced by a Cabernet
specialist in the heart of Médoc,
this wine is from a legendary
vintage that’s often mentioned
in the media.
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
MERLOT, PETIT VERDOT
AROMAS
TOBACCO, RIPE FRUIT,
EUCALYPTUS, WOOD
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – FULL
PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT MÉDOC
22 April 2014APRIL 3
WS 91
Global Grapes
BALANCING ACT
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are
now grown worldwide – all thanks to
the perfect balance Médoc achieves in
its best vintages.
L
afite, Mouton, Latour, Margaux… For wine lovers
everywhere, Médoc’s Grands Crus are the stuff of dreams,
superlative examples of the fine wines the area is capable
of producing.
In years when the conditions come together, as in 2000,
2005 and 2009, Médoc wineries, big and small alike, can make
cuvées that possess beautifully balanced fruit and structure. In such
vintages, wines that deliver exceptional quality for their prices are to 2020
be had in the Cru Bourgeois category as well as in minor appellations. FRANCE
The secret to Médoc – a strip of land north of the city of Bordeaux, CHÂTEAU MAISON BLANCHE
CRU BOURGEOIS 2009, MÉDOC
sandwiched between the Gironde estuary and the pine forests of the $23.20 11792293, 750 ML,
Landes – is the shallow, gravelly, well-drained soils that favour grape 14% ABV
ripening. This is especially significant for Cabernet Sauvignon, which NUMBER OF CASES: 250
thrives in Bordeaux: Limited yields mean fewer grape bunches to A real upswing in quality
ripen, and the heat boost from the sun-warmed stones further aids followed Patrick Bouey’s
ripening. Though it can retain a vegetal hint, Médoc’s Cabernet gains purchase of Château Maison
in finesse and complexity, with appealing spice notes. Easier-ripening Blanche. The 2009 is an
excellent choice.
Merlot, meanwhile, becomes a round and fruity charmer in Médoc’s
GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET
deeper and more clayey soils. SAUVIGNON, CABERNET FRANC
French winemaker Mathieu Mercier now works in the Okanagan
(see page 24), but prior to that, put in stints in Chile, California and AROMAS
at Bordeaux’s Château Carcanieux, a Cru Bourgeois property near BLACKCURRANT, COCOA,
CEDAR, SWEET SPICES
Saint-Estèphe. As such, he’s well placed to compare the qualities of ACIDITY – MODERATE
PHOTO: ANDREW BAIN/GETTYIMAGES.
Cabernet, Merlot and other grapes grown in different regions. Médoc,
he declares, does indeed have exceptional qualities. “In Médoc there SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
is more balance among the elements required to make great wines: BODY – MEDIUM
sugars, acidity, tannins and also the anthocyanins that play a role
in colour. In the best years, all these arrive at full development at PALATE – GENEROUS
the same time. The vintage effect is more important, but when WOOD – EVIDENT
everything falls into place, few regions can compare to Médoc.”
April 2014 23BALANCING ACT (CONTINUED)
Mathieu Mercier
has worked in
Bordeaux, Chile
and California.
Currently he is
OKANAGAN head winemaker
at Osoyoos Larose
in the Okanagan.
STUDY IN CONTRASTS
Bordeaux grape varieties are widely used in the Okanagan Valley, yet its
climate is entirely different from Bordeaux’s. At Osoyoos Larose, making
the most of this contrast is an ongoing learning process.
W
hereas Bordeaux wine growers worry But abundant fruitiness does not a complete wine
about rain coming in from the Atlantic, make, and the Okanagan climate also generates some
British Columbia producers’ biggest challenges. “Sugars, and thus the potential alcohol
climate-related concern is, well, too content, can go up rapidly and acidity can disappear
much sun. Tucked between mountain before the tannins and colour are fully developed,”
ranges, the Okanagan Valley has the kind of semi notes Mercier.
desert climate that makes vignerons smile. Planting the right grape variety in the right place
“With such sunshine we can bring out the reduces these problems. Cabernet Sauvignon, which
grapes’ full potential by crafting richer, more takes longer to ripen, is grown on the valley bottom
‑
concentrated wines,” says Mathieu Mercier, head where it’s hotter and sunnier. Merlot is planted in the
winemaker at Osoyoos Larose, owned by Bordeaux’s cooler area near the mountains, which cast shade in
Groupe Taillan (Château Citran, Gruaud-Larose, etc.) the late afternoon.
and considered one of the best Okanagan wineries. Mercier prefers to avoid using technology as
“We can achieve perfect ripeness every year if we a corrective tool. “For a great wine, you need as
do things properly.” Merlot dominates Osoyoos few corrections as possible. We work hard in the
Larose cuvées, and Mercier thinks that its traits come vineyard to promote balance. We use Bordeaux
through particularly well in the Okanagan, where it methods but our aim is to create a wine that truly
displays an intense and expressive fruitiness. expresses the Okanagan.”
24 April 2014APRIL 17
2018
EASY GOURMET
CANADA Maple-Glazed Duck Breasts
OSOYOOS LAROSE,
PÉTALES D’OSOYOOS 2011, With Cherry Sauce
PHOTOS: KATE ELMES (M. MERCIER). RECIPE: DANA DOROBANTU, PHOTOGRAPHER; WILLIAM COLE, ASSISTANT.
OKANAGAN VALLEY
$27.70 11166495, 750 ML, RECIPE AT SAQ.COM
13.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 990 (6 BOTTLES)
MAPLE-GLAZED
A Bordeaux-style cuvée from
a leading Canadian winery now
fully controlled by France’s
Groupe Taillan (Gruaud-Larose).
DUCK BREASTS
FOOD STYLING: BLAKE MACKAY. ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON.
GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET
FRANC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
PETIT VERDOT, MALBEC
AROMAS SOMMELIER’S SUGGESTION
RED FRUIT, BELL PEPPER, Duck breast goes well with wines that have silky tannins, such as
PEPPER, VANILLA
ACIDITY – MODERATE British Columbia’s Pétales d’Osoyoos. Showing red-fruit aromas, it has
an enveloping mouthfeel that’s perfect alongside the rich sauce. Because
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY it contains a sizeable proportion of Merlot, Pétales d’Osoyoos conveys an
intense fruitiness that connects nicely with the cherries. Aged in oak, the
BODY – MEDIUM
wine also features vanilla and cinnamon notes that pair with the maple
PALATE – GENEROUS glaze. The upshot is a highly tasty union featuring subtle interplay between
a caressing texture and complementary aromas.
WOOD – EVIDENT
— Kler-Yann Bouteiller
April 2014 25BALANCING ACT (CONTINUED)
MASTER OF THE MIX Australia’s dynamic Chester Osborn
blends regions as well as grape
varieties to obtain the wine he’s after.
W
hy stick to grapes from one vineyard
parcel when you can use several sources?
That’s Chester Osborn’s approach to
making d’Arenberg’s Bordeaux-style
blend, The Galvo Garage: He deftly
combines grapes that were harvested at very different
times in two separate regions.
He’s not out to smooth over the differences, far
from it. As a winemaker who crafts dozens of cuvées
a year, including single-vineyard wines, the colourful
Osborn talks fondly of such-and-such a site of old
Cabernet Sauvignon with a tiny yield and complex
profile, and he knows every corner of his home region.
“McLaren Vale has 19 districts, 14 different types of
soils and variations in temperature and rainfall,
depending on proximity to the coast.” His goal in
assembling The Galvo Garage is to find the
components that “play well together.”
“Cabernet Sauvignon was long the backbone of
McLaren Vale,” Osborn notes. “Before the export
boom 20 years ago, the region was known for
Cabernet. After that, Shiraz acquired more
importance, but now things are getting back to
normal. Cabernets from McLaren Vale have great
depth and power, with notes of dark fruit, spices, an
appealing menthol hint and faint herbaceous notes.”
In The Galvo Garage, Merlot drawn from the cool
Adelaide Hills appellation gives the Cabernet a very
particular tone. “Usually Merlot is used to soften and
enrich Cabernet Sauvignon, but here it adds freshness
and finesse.” Like a painter working from a palette,
AUSTRALIA
Chester Osborn is a fourth-generation
Osborne expertly mixes elements to create something
that’s more than the sum of its parts.
member of the family that owns d’Arenberg,
which celebrated its centenary in 2012.
Osborn is known for his innovative blends.
26 April 2014EASY GOURMET
Grilled Lamb Chops
With Plum Chutney APRIL 3
The winery that
produces The Galvo
Garage is south of
Adelaide, where
barbecuing is a
favourite pastime.
If you don’t have
plums for this
delicious chutney,
apricots also
work well.
2018
AUSTRALIA
D’ARENBERG, THE GALVO
GARAGE 2008, McLAREN VALE
$27.20 11155876, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
RECIPE AT SAQ.COM NUMBER OF CASES: 150 (6 BOTTLES)
PHOTOS: KATE ELMES (C. OSBORN). RECIPE: DANA DOROBANTU, PHOTOGRAPHER; WILLIAM COLE,
Another distinctive wine from
d’Arenberg, whose slogan is
“the art of being different” and
ASSISTANT. FOOD STYLING: BLAKE MACKAY. ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON.
GRILLED LAMB CHOPS
SOMMELIER’S SUGGESTION
whose labels sport an eye-
catching diagonal red band.
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC,
PETIT VERDOT
A flavourful meat, lamb finds its ideal companion in d’Arenberg’s equally AROMAS
flavourful wine, produced using Bordeaux methods. Because it’s barrel- EUCALYPTUS, BLACKCURRANT,
WINTERGREEN, ROASTED NOTES
aged, The Galvo Garage nicely highlights the chops’ grilled notes. Helped ACIDITY – MODERATE
along by the Aussie sun, the wine’s smooth tannins respond well to the
medium-rare meat, making for a winning combination that comes through SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
as appealing roundness on the palate. The concentrated notes of dark fruit BODY – MEDIUM
in the wine mingle with those of the plum chutney. Lastly, the rosemary in
the recipe accentuates the eucalyptus aromas that are typical of Australian PALATE – GENEROUS
wines and that add a hint of welcome freshness to a concentrated cuvée. WOOD – EVIDENT
— Kler-Yann Bouteiller
April 2014 27Quirion shares his winemaking successes
with a team of about 10 people. “To make
a good wine, you have to work hard and
have a good team,” he observes. “And to
make a good red, you have to know how
to achieve phenolic ripeness.” In winter,
he uses more than 40 kilometres of
geotextile fabric in the vineyard to protect
the vines’ primary buds from extreme
cold, a precaution that greatly enhances
the quality of the fruit. The minerality in
the wine, meanwhile, comes partly from
the soil composition.
When it comes to food
pairings with this red,
think local. Breast of duck
in a fruit sauce, for instance,
would be a delicious match.
There are several duck
farmers in Montérégie
and many home cooks
Quebec Terroir in Quebec now use duck.
TRUE BELIEVER
You’ll find lots of great
recipes at SAQ.com.
Yvan Quirion is a fierce champion of the Quebec terroir. CANADA
DOMAINE ST-JACQUES
A civil engineer turned winemaker, he believes southern RÉSERVE 2011
Quebec presents excellent conditions for growing grapes. $24.05 11506365, 750 ML,
12.5% ABV
So much for the perception that you
A
t 20, Yvan Quirion would have After studying the greatest terroirs can’t make good reds in Quebec!
given a lot to own a winery in in the world, Quirion concluded that This Domaine St-Jacques wine will
Europe. Thirty years later, he his beloved Montérégie meets all the silence the naysayers.
wouldn’t swap his Domaine requirements for successful grape- PAIRING: DUCK BREAST WITH BERRY
SAUCE
St-Jacques – and its clayey silt growing. “It has 1,400 degree days
GRAPES: LUCY KUHLMAN, BACO NOIR,
soil over limestone – for another vineyard [a measurement of the difference MARÉCHAL FOCH
anywhere in the world. “These soils have between each day’s mean temperature
extraordinary potential,” he says of the and a reference temperature], and
property in Saint-Jacques-le-Mineur. “You’d grapevines require 1,250 to ripen. From AROMAS
have to be crazy not to let yourself dream mid-April to mid-October, we have CANDIED BLACK CHERRY,
INCENSE, SPICES, LICORICE
because of this potential.” Not that Quirion, 180 days that are free of killing frosts, ACIDITY – LIVELY
his family and his team sit around dreaming; and grapevines need 135 days. What’s
they’re too busy producing 60,000 bottles more, our soil is comparable to the best SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
a year. “The attitude in Quebec is that the Burgundy terroirs.”
PHOTO: LOUISE SAVOIE.
BODY – MEDIUM
ability to make quality wine is limited by
climate or terroir,” he says. “If you ask me, For information on Quebec alcohol PALATE – GENEROUS
the real limits are in the psyches of the producers, go to alcoolsduterroir.com WOOD – EVIDENT
people making the wine.” (in French only).
28 April 2014 Limited quantities. Vintages may vary from store to store.APRIL 3
WS 89 WS 91 WS 89
2016
P. 17 2020 P. 23 2020 2016 P. 19 2020
CANADA ITALY FRANCE FRANCE ITALY
MISSION HILL, SAUVIGNON ARGIANO, NON CONFUNDITUR CHÂTEAU MAISON BLANCHE CHÂTEAU LESTAGE CRU SAN FABIANO CALCINAIA,
BLANC RÉSERVE 2012, 2011, TOSCANA CRU BOURGEOIS 2009, MÉDOC BOURGEOIS 2009, CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010,
OKANAGAN VALLEY VQA $22.85 11269401, 750 ML, $23.20 11792293, 750 ML, LISTRAC-MÉDOC TOSCANA
$21.00 11593403, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV 14% ABV $25.80 10537426, 750 ML, $26.30 11546914, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 196 NUMBER OF CASES: 250 14% ABV 14.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 140 Meaning “unique,” like A real upswing in quality NUMBER OF CASES: 200 NUMBER OF CASES: 397 (6 BOTTLES)
From an iconic Okanagan Argiano’s remarkable history, followed Patrick Bouey’s Along with Moulis, Listrac- At once beefy and charming.
producer. Aging on lees and Non Confunditur is the estate’s purchase of Château Maison Médoc is one of only two Crafted under the supervision
fermentation in oak casks second label, the first being Blanche. The 2009 is an left-bank appellations where of famed consulting winemaker
yields a wine of great richness. the famed Solengo. excellent choice. Merlot dominates. Carlo Ferrini.
PAIRING: CALIFORNIA SALAD PAIRINGS: TAPENADE AND PAIRING: RACK OF LAMB PAIRING: SIRLOIN WITH PAIRING: STEAK WITH MONTREAL
WITH CHICKEN PARMESAN, OSSO BUCCO WITH THYME WINE SAUCE STEAK SPICE
GRAPE: SAUVIGNON BLANC AND GREMOLATA GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON
GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SAUVIGNON, CABERNET FRANC SAUVIGNON, PETIT VERDOT
SANGIOVESE, MERLOT, SYRAH
AROMAS AROMAS
AROMAS BLACKBERRY, SPICES, AROMAS DARK FRUIT, BLUEBERRY, AROMAS
FRESHLY CUT GRASS, LEMON, FLOWERS, PLUM, HERBS, BLACKCURRANT, COCOA, COFFEE, MOCHA, PENCIL EUCALYPTUS, RIPE FRUIT,
TROPICAL FRUIT, MELON OLIVE, MENTHOL CEDAR, SWEET SPICES LEAD BLACKCURRANT, WOOD
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED
WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT
April 2014 29ICON LEGEND
WHITE WINE ROSÉ WINE RED WINE Favourite
drink now through hold until
drink now the year indicated the year indicated
The potential longevity of a wine when stored in the proper conditions. Note that this is simply
a guideline, with the exceptions – and they are numerous! – proving the rule.
APRIL 3
IWC 92 WA 94 WA 96
WA 93 WS 93
P. 27 2018 2018 2020 2025 2020
AUSTRALIA ITALY ITALY ITALY ITALY
D’ARENBERG, THE GALVO CASTELLO DEL TERRICCIO, BIBI GRAETZ, IT’S A GAME! 2011, ROCCA DI CASTAGNOLI, CASTELLO DI BOSSI,
GARAGE 2008, McLAREN VALE TASSINAIA 2006, TOSCANA TOSCANA BURIANO 2006, TOSCANA CORBAIA 2008, TOSCANA
$27.20 11155876, 750 ML, $29.95 12108730, 750 ML, $34.25 11906140, 750 ML, $42.25 12108721, 750 ML, $50.00 12108713, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV 14% ABV 14% ABV 14.5% ABV 14% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 150 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 110 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 290 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 112 NUMBER OF CASES: 111 (6 BOTTLES)
Another distinctive wine from The name Tassinaia (place of A superb cuvée that will A great robust Cab Sauv for A wine with personality!
d’Arenberg, whose slogan is stones) evokes the stones used delight fans of Tuscan wines, those who favour oaky wines. Castello di Bossi was one
“the art of being different” and in the construction of most by artist and winemaker Perfect for cellaring over the of the first to plant
whose labels sport an eye- of the winery buildings. Bibi Graetz, who is half Israeli next decade. international grapes in
catching diagonal red band. PAIRING: BRAISED BEEF STEW and half Norwegian. PAIRING: BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH the Chianti appellation.
PAIRING: GRILLED LAMB CHOPS WITH MORELS PAIRING: LEG OF LAMB AU JUS MADEIRA SAUCE PAIRING: VENISON STEAK
WITH PLUM CHUTNEY GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON
GRAPE: SANGIOVESE GRAPES: SANGIOVESE,
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SANGIOVESE, MERLOT CABERNET SAUVIGNON
MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC,
PETIT VERDOT
AROMAS
EUCALYPTUS, BLACKCURRANT, AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS
WINTERGREEN, PLUM, CHERRY, WOOD, FLOWERS, RED FRUIT, BLACKCURRANT, MENTHOL, KIRSCH CHERRY, SPICES,
ROASTED NOTES VANILLA VANILLA, PEPPER MOCHA, LICORICE TOBACCO, PEANUT SHELL
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL BODY – FULL
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED PALATE – STRUCTURED
WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – PRONOUNCED WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – PRONOUNCED WOOD – EVIDENT
30 April 2014WINE PROFILE CHART
SOURCES CITED:
IWC : International Wine Cellar,
Stephen Tanzer (out of 100) Presence and intensity
of acidity, body, wood
WA : Wine Advocate, Robert Parker (out of 100) and other elements at
WS : Wine Spectator (out of 100) the time of tasting.
APRIL 3 APRIL 17
WA 94
WA 92 WA 97
WS 94
ITALY 2017-2026
TENUTA DELL’ORNELLAIA,
ORNELLAIA 2011,
P. 15 BOLGHERI SUPERIORE P. 13
2025 2020
ITALY ITALY $189.25 11973238, 750 ML, ITALY 2017-2025 FRANCE
GAJA, DAGROMIS 2008, CASANOVA DI NERI, 14.5% ABV ANTINORI, SOLAIA 2010, CHÂTEAU PÉGAU, CUVÉE LÔNE
BAROLO TENUTA NUOVA 2008, NUMBER OF CASES: 257 (6 BOTTLES) TOSCANA 2012, CÔTES DU RHÔNE
$69.00 11212501, 750 ML, BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO $450.00 12274990, 1500 ML, $246.00 12274885, 750 ML, $18.35 12131489, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV $70.50 10870157, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV 14% ABV 12.5% ABV
15% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 35 (1 BOTTLE) NUMBER OF CASES: 55 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 150
NUMBER OF CASES: 254 (6 BOTTLES)
NUMBER OF CASES: 560 (6 BOTTLES) A Supertuscan pioneer in Tiny seven-hectare property,
Grapes sourced from the This legendary wine is produced
prestigious Serralunga and Giacomo Neri, who took over his the 1970s, Antinori continues founded in 1987, was a big
father’s estate in 1991, dazzles by what was originally an
La Morra vineyards, plus the Antinori-owned estate in to stir emotions today with success from the start.
Gaja family’s expertise, equals with his outstanding cuvées. its fabled Solaia. Produces a wide range of wines.
This one is velvet in the mouth. western Tuscany’s Bolgheri
pure bliss in a bottle! appellation. PAIRING: HERBED ROAST LAMB PAIRING: ARUGULA, APPLE
PAIRING: OSSO BUCCO PAIRINGS: BRAISED VEAL SHANK, AND CHEDDAR SALAD
PAIRING: GAME STEAK GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
HERBED RACK OF LAMB SANGIOVESE, CABERNET FRANC GRAPES: CLAIRETTE,
GRAPE: NEBBIOLO GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
GRAPE: SANGIOVESE BOURBOULENC, GRENACHE
MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC, BLANC, UGNI BLANC
PETIT VERDOT
AROMAS
CHERRY, LEATHER, AROMAS AROMAS
AROMAS LICORICE, BASIL, FIG, CHERRY, SPICES, BLACKCURRANT, CHERRY, AROMAS
VIOLETS, CHERRY, ALMOND, MOCHA, CHOCOLATE, DARK FRUIT, LICORICE, LAUREL, GREEN APPLE, MINERALITY,
CLOVE, TOBACCO DRIED FLOWERS VANILLA, WOOD TOBACCO, COFFEE, OAK HAY, FRESH GRASS
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED PALATE – STRUCTURED PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – PRONOUNCED WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – UNOAKED
April 2014 31Products are available in limited quantities. No layaways
are permitted until the Monday following the release of
the products. Prices are subject to change without notice.
APRIL 17
2016 P. 10 2018
FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE
DOMAINE OSTERTAG, VIGNOBLE VINCENT CARÊME VOUVRAY SEC JEAN-MARC BROCARD, CHABLIS BRUNO CLAIR PINOT NOIR LA RECTORIE, CÔTÉ MER ROSÉ
D’E RIESLING 2012, ALSACE 2012, VOUVRAY SEC PREMIER CRU MONTMAINS 2011 ROSÉ 2012, MARSANNAY 2012, COLLIOURE
$25.25 11459984, 750 ML, $25.35 11633612, 750 ML, $30.00 12178818, 750 ML, $25.80 10916485, 750 ML, $25.80 11632441, 750 ML,
12.5% ABV 13% ABV 12.5% ABV 12.5% ABV 13.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125 NUMBER OF CASES: 280 NUMBER OF CASES: 200 NUMBER OF CASES: 200 NUMBER OF CASES: 150
A cuvée of great finesse, crafted A Vouvray in which Chenin’s Jean-Marc Brocard’s son A local specialty, but popular Though based in Banyuls,
by renowned Epfig winemaker fruity and floral notes come brought a biodynamic approach beyond France’s borders the Parcé brothers produce
Ostertag. Head of the family through nicely. A tour de force to the estate after taking over. as well. Created by Bruno contemporary and dry wines
winery, he has now completed from a vintage hit by hail. This is a winner of a wine. Clair’s grandfather. from traditional local
his 32nd harvest. PAIRING: WARM GOAT-CHEESE PAIRING: SNOW CRAB PAIRING: TOMATO-BOCCONCINI grape varieties.
PAIRING: FRIED CALAMARI AND GREEN-APPLE SALAD SALAD PAIRING: PROVENÇALE MUSSELS
GRAPE: CHARDONNAY
WITH LEMON GRAPE: CHENIN GRAPE: PINOT NOIR GRAPES: GRENACHE, CARIGNAN,
GRAPE: RIESLING SYRAH
AROMAS AROMAS
ORANGE PEEL, LEMON, AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS COOKED APPLE, FLORAL
HONEY, APPLE, FLORAL CANDY APPLE, WHITE APPLE, PEAR, PEACH, RED BERRY FRUIT, TEA, NOTES, RED FRUIT,
AND MINERAL NOTES FLOWERS, HONEY, MELON FLOWERS, MINERALITY INCENSE MINERAL NOTES
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – LIVELY ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM BODY – LIGHT BODY – MEDIUM BODY – LIGHT BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – DELICATE PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – SUBTLE
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