ETHNIC HAIR CARE Trend Watch - Perfume your world - Sozio
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∙ Perfume your world ∙
Trend Watch
ETHNIC
HAIR CARE
MAY 2019
AT A GLANCE…
Hair is by far the most important element of ethnic women’s image.
African/Black American women’s spending on hair is an important part of their beauty
budget. Today, Ethnic and Caucasian hair care markets exist in parallel with separate
salons, distribution, structure, and brands. Only by taking a deeper look into the
ethnic segment can we reveal more about this underexplored and
growing segment of beauty.
1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
MARKET TRENDS FRAGRANCE
OVERVIEW COLLECTION
1 2 3
2
MARKET
OVERVIEW what to know
category overview
1
brands
facts & figures
consumer insight
product showcase
3
MARKET OVERVIEW - what to know
Facts to consider…
African Americans have
cornered the ethnic hair &
An estimated beauty market, ringing up
65% $54 million
of the U.S. population
has textured hair, which Textured-haired consumers of the $63 million total
includes those with spend considerably more industry spend in 2017
curly, coily or wavy hair
than their straight-haired Source: Nielsen Insights
Source: GCI Magazine (naturally straight & those with
chemically relaxed hair)
counterparts—an average of
$205 a year,
versus $130 a year
Source: 2018 TextureTrends Report
More than
80%
of women with curly and
Less than
coily hair say they purchase
20% products specifically for
textured hair rather than
of the hair care shelf
space at most food, drug general market products
& mass retailers is
dedicated to products for Source: 2018 TextureTrends Report
texture
Source: 2018
TextureTrends Report
4
MARKET OVERVIEW - category overview
Market Size for Hair Care
(Current Year & Forecast Projection, North America)
$11.80
$11.60
$11.60
$11.38
$11.40
$11.17
$11.20
$10.97
$11.00
Value (bn USD)
$10.79
$10.80
$10.61
$10.60 $10.51
$10.40
$10.20
*1,514 *2,185 *1,942
$10.00
$9.80
2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022
* # of launches
• In the last 3 years the market has been stable in market value, but forecasts are projected to increase
at a slow but steady rate.
Source: Mintel, Market Sizes for Hair Colorants, Hair Styling Agents, Shampoo & Conditioners
5
MARKET OVERVIEW - brands
Key Brands for Ethnic Hair
6
MARKET OVERVIEW - facts & figures
Top Formats & Textures for Hair Care
(Hair Product Usage by Race, North America, 2018)
Base: 2,000 internet users aged 18+ who use haircare products
100%
90%
80%
70%
Regular shampoo
60% Regular conditioner
50% Hairspray
Styling gel, cream, or lotion
40%
Leave-in conditioner
30% Hair oil
20%
10%
0%
White Black Asian
• Black consumers report above-average use of styling gel, cream, or lotion. These products are known to help
with hold & work to tame flyaways & frizz.
• They may also use these products to extend the wear of a hairstyle such as braids or locs. Hair oil is especially
important to this group, as their hair texture typically requires more moisture & hydration.
Mintel: Shampoo, Conditioner & Hairstyling Products - US - April 2018 - Product Usage
7
MARKET OVERVIEW - consumer insight
Hair Characteristics
While no two heads of hair are the same, there are three main classifications of hair type based on
race – Asian hair, Afro hair & Caucasian hair (which can also be referred to as European hair).
ASIAN CAUCASIAN AFRO
Straight to wavy hair Straight to curly hair Curly to coiled hair
Round to slightly Oval-shaped follicles. Oval to elliptical follicles.
oval-shaped follicles.
• The shape of the follicle is what determines the hair’s shape. Asian hair grows from a round hair follicle, while
Afro hair sprouts from an oval one, & Caucasian hair follicles vary. Being a dead material, the hair
subsequently keeps this original shape – Asian hair is usually bone straight, Afro grows in a spiral like fashion,
& Caucasian hair can be anything in between.
Source: The Belgravia Centre
8
MARKET OVERVIEW - consumer insight
Top Product Claims for Ethnic Haircare
“Which of these benefits or claims are most important to you when
Moisturizing purchasing haircare products?”
Dry, damaged hair & constant manipulation Base: 1,922 internet users aged 18+ who use haircare products
from styling can prevent hair growth &
moisture-loss.
For My Hair Type
Consumers have a variety of hair types &
the one-size-fits-all approach with
multi-benefit products may not work for all
haircare consumers. NATURAL
opportunity!
Repairs & Prevents Damage
Generally, damage concerns & hydration
benefits go hand-in-hand as both work to give
the consumer the appearance of healthy hair.
• Moisturizing claims & damage repair are key drivers for Black consumers, who use conditioning products to
address hair challenges.
• Mainstream brands looking to appeal to consumers need to make sure their products call out moisture &
damage repair claims, as these are key concerns for various groups.
Source: Mintel: Shampoo, Conditioner & Hairstyling Products - US - April 2018
9MARKET OVERVIEW - product showcase
1. VEGAN HAIR CARE
Curls just launched its first vegan haircare collection with
all-natural ingredients like green tea, sea kelp, and
avocado.
2. POTENT RECIPES FOR HAIR
Curl Charisma is a thick, rich, and creamy moisturizing 2 BRIOGEO
Curl Charisma
styler that harnesses the conditioning benefits of flaxseed
oil and shea butter and the nurturing power of chia seed 3
and rice amino acids. PANTENE
Pro-V Gold Series Moisture
Boost Shampoo
3. 15 YEARS IN THE MAKING
Pantene’s Gold Series Collection contains the latest
breakthrough technology, Pro-V nutrient blends, and
premium ingredients to provide a better user experience.
4. SHEET HAIR MASK 1 CURLS
Green Tea Hair Rinse
A hair sleeping mask designed to be applied to dry hair,
acting overnight for better results.
5. BEAUTY SLEEP… FOR YOUR HAIR?
A luxurious, hypoallergenic sham that protects your hair
from the creases and tugs caused by standard cotton,
4 SEPHORA
COLLECTION
Hair Sleeping Mask
reducing split ends and ensuring a night of restorative
beauty sleep.
6. POWERED BY SCIENCE
Hairfinity vitamins are a unique combination of minerals
and exclusive CAPILSANA® Complex which nourishes
7 BOUCLÈME
Revive 5 Hair Oil Active
hair from within, for longer and stronger results.
7. MULTI-USE FUNCTIONALITY 6 HAIRFINITY
Healthy Vitamins
A fast absorbing concentrate made up of 5 incredible oils
offering hydration, protection and moisture to revive dry
lackluster hair.
5
SLIP
Silk Pillowcase
10TRENDS
trending now
2
fragrance
Sozio analysis
11TRENDS - trending now
Ingredient Trends
HEMP OFFERINGS IN HAIR CARE
Hair products infused with hemp are on the rise,
with nearly one quarter of consumers claiming
to have used or be interested in using hair
products with hemp. While hemp haircare
products are still new to the market, there exists
a wide range of products curated for all hair
types.
SHEA MOISTURE AGADIR INTERNATIONAL
Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils Hemp & Red Wine Collection
Moisture Seal Collection
PROFESSIONAL HAIR CARE POWERED BY CBD
The buzz is building about cannabidiol or CBD, extracted from
the cannabis sativa plant. It’s being added to a slew of beauty
and skincare products. Now, salons can offer the benefits of
CBD for their haircare clients with the launch of EMERA CBD
Haircare from Earthly Body.
It harnesses the benefits of 100% organic cannabidiol (CBD) oil
from sustainable, harvested non-GMO industrial hemp plant.
The CBD hemp-oil-infused hair care products work
synergistically with the body’s endocannabinoid system to
deliver maximum moisture retention, improve the appearance
of fuller, thicker hair, and promote healthy hair and scalp.
12TRENDS - trending now
Personalization & Inclusivity
P&G EXPANDS OFFERINGS
TO AFRICAN-AMERICANS
In August 2018, P&G haircare brand, Head &
Shoulders, launched its Royal Oils line created
by Black chemists for Black women. The Royal
Oils collection expands Head & Shoulders’
brand promise of dandruff free hair by focusing
on scalp relief from excessive dryness to
ultimately have moisturized, healthy hair from
root to tip.
Products created for a
specific hair type
resonate with roughly A PERSONAL APPROACH TO HAIR CARE
33% The FORM Collection will help make hair care simpler, by offering
of US consumers
products specifically designed for individual hair needs. For women of
Source: Mintel
all hair textures, the FORM Collection is personal, versatile and
minimizes guesswork.
FORM’s differentiated, personal approach starts with taking a short
online FORM Consultation, where women are matched with a FORM
Regimen that specifically addresses their individual needs. Each
person who takes the FORM Consultation is delivered customized
product combinations and usage instructions for a personal hair care
experience.
13TRENDS - trending now
Natural Hair Movement
UNILEVER LAUNCHES LINE
SPECIFICALLY FOR NATURAL HAIR
In January 2019, Unilever launched Suave
Professional for Natural Hair product line infused
with shea butter and coconut oil to provide
moisture, prevent frizz & breakage and repair
damage. Suave enlisted 5,000 women to gauge
their attitudes and perceptions to create their
Natural Hair product line. Sales have declined
2.3%
during the past two
years due to a
22.7%
fall in at-home relaxer
This emerging cultural shift is challenging the association of sales.
nappy hair with the ugliness that has been deeply ingrained Source: Mintel
in many mixed-race cultures, especially within the United
States. This has led more women to give up the artificially-
imposed mandate that hair has to be straight to be beautiful.
This new enthusiasm for natural hair comes at the same time
as a major rise in organic products for hair care. It’s become
common knowledge that hair relaxers cause serious
damage, including itching, inflammation, broken hairs, burns,
and even hair loss.
Source: Curlcentric
14TRENDS - trending now
Natural Hair Movement: CurlFest
A CELEBRATION OF
NATURAL HAIR & BEAUTY
CurlFest is a powerful way for women to embrace
their natural beauty in a society that often tells
women & girls that curly hair is somehow less
than desirable.
The idea for the Curly Girl Collective was born about
seven years ago, when a couple of women started
an email chain to swap their natural hair care tips.
When they finally all met in person,
it was a revelation.
The Curly Girl Collective launched CurlFest in 2014,
& the festival’s popularity has been growing
exponentially since then. Just under 1,000 people
came the first year & by last year, more than 20,000
people flooded Prospect Park in Brooklyn for the
annual celebration.
Save the Date: CurlFest 2019 will be held on
Saturday, July 27, 2019
15TRENDS - fragrance
Top 5 Fragrance Groups for Ethnic Hair Care
(% by Variants, North America, 2016-2018)
Fruity
4%
Floral
9%
2018
Fantasy
10%
Green/Herbal/Woody
51% 2017
Gourmand/Edibl
e
26%
2016
0 20 40 60 80 100
Units
Green/Herbal/Woody Gourmand/Edible Fantasy Floral Fruity
• Green/Herbal/Woody scents run the spectrum from “light and refreshing” to “lively and invigorating”. Green and
Herbal hair care ingredients like tea tree and peppermint are popular due to their amazing functional and
therapeutic properties both for hair and scalp.
• Gourmand/Edible scents include common ingredients like shea, coconut, vanilla, and almond. These
ingredients resonate well in consumers mind as they’re viewed as being more natural.
Source: Mintel, GNPD
16TRENDS - fragrance
Fragrance Callouts for Ethnic Hair Care
(% by Variants, North America, 2016-2018)
Top 5 Scents Unique & Notable Mentions
COCONUT
Aside from making a great moisturizer for hair and scalp,
coconut oil has been used as a natural remedy to combat SUNFLOWER
frizz, get rid of dandruff, remove and prevent lice, and A number of characteristics make sunflower oil
promote hair growth. beneficial for hair. The linoleic acid it contains
assists with slowing hair loss. The menthol
OLIVE assists with dandruff control while its
Olive oil is a natural powerhouse when it comes to hair. It is antibacterial properties help keep the scalp
naturally packed with anti-aging antioxidants and hydrating microbial free.
squalene, making it great for restoring health and luster.
ARGAN
Vitamin E is extremely beneficial for hair, and is found in MORINGA
argan oil in high quantities. Vitamin E promotes healthy Moringa restores elasticity and the ability to
hair growth as it contains antioxidants, which help boost retain moisture, therefore its an excellent
cells and encourage them to produce healthy hair. natural hair conditioner. Moringa promotes
faster hair growth naturally due to its richness
SHEA BUTTER in vitamins and minerals.
Shea butter has been used for centuries to sooth dry itchy
scalp and dandruff. It’s also a great source to provide
moisture for dry or damaged hair because of its emolliating
qualities. BIRCH
One of the less well-known uses of birch
essential oil is that it can facilitate the growth of
ALOE/ALOE VERA healthier hair. Birch essential oil makes your
Aloe vera effectively cleanses hair follicles, removing oil hair stronger and fuller. It also prevents your
and residue. It does not harm hair while cleaning. Unlike hair from getting too dry or brittle.
other chemicals in hair products, it’s gentle and preserves
the integrity of hair.
Source: Mintel, GNPD
1718
GOU R M AN D
GREEN
TRENDS - Sozio analysis
FLOR AL
FR U ITYFRAGRANCE
COLLECTION
cleanse
3
moisturize
reconstruct
19CLEANSE
Ingredients that remove impurities without stripping
away essential moisture.
KLORANE
Shampoo
with Ylang-Ylang
BRIOGEO BIOSSANCE
Ginseng + Biotin Squalane + Tea Tree
20 Volumizing Shampoo Cleansing GelFRAGRANCE COLLECTION - cleanse
Top
Herbal,
Citrus Medley
Middle
Green Florals,
GREEN Honeyed Rose, Ginger
Base
TONIC
RUSH Balsamic, Amber Musk,
Vanilla Absolute, Silky Woods GLOW
Benefits:
Ginger: Has natural antiseptic and
anti-inflammatory properties that can help
soothe scalp conditions
Top Top
Bergamot, Eucalyptus,
Bitter Orange, Tea Tree Citron, Sweet Basil
Middle Middle
SILKEN
Clove Leaf, Ylang Ylang,
Geranium Blossom Cinnamon Leaf, Carnation
UP
Base Base
Benzoin, Vetiver, Patchouli,
Cashmere Woods Black Vanilla, Spiced Woods
Benefits: Benefits:
Tea Tree Oil: Encourages hair growth Ylang Ylang: Can be used to clean
by helping to unclog hair follicles and unclog the scalp due to its
and nourish the roots antimicrobial properties
21MOISTURIZE
A key aspect to sealing in water is to use nourishing ingredients
that will retain hydration and boost moisture.
NOT YOUR MOTHER’S
Matcha Green Tea & Apple Blossom
Nutrient Rich Butter Masque
HAIR FOOD CAROL’S DAUGHTER
Almond & Lotus Hair Milk
22 Repair Conditioner Leave-In MoisturizerFRAGRANCE COLLECTION - moisturize
Top
Zesty Grapefruit,
Lemon, Tea Leaves
Middle
Spicy, Powdery Floral,
MIRACLE Green Wheat, Cedar Leaf
Base
HYDRA-
MILK Sandalwood, Patchouli,
Amber, Vanilla Sugar, Musks CURE
Benefits:
Tea Leaves: Rich in polyphenols,
vitamin C and E, which ensure
shiny and soft hair
Top Top
Anjou Pear, Yuzu, Peach,
White Peach Lemon Zest
Middle Middle
MOISTURE
Dewy Jasmine, Gardenia,
Almond Blossom Almond Blossom
ELIXIR
Base Base
Rosewood, Tonka Bean,
Agarwood, Sugared Amber Honey Musk, Coconut Milk
Benefits: Benefits:
Oatmeal: Contains vitamin B Almond: Due to its nourishing properties
and penetrates the hair which and high levels of vitamin E, almond
allows moisture retention provides immense hydration
23RECONSTRUCT
Restore hair back to its healthy state by feeding it what it needs. Inspired by the wonders
of nutrient-rich ingredients & the packed vitamins they contain.
MAUI
Moisture Smooth & Repair
Vanilla Bean Hair Butter
GARNIER BRIOGEO
Smoothing Oil with Banana + Coconut
24 Coconut Oil & Cocoa Butter Superfood ConditionerFRAGRANCE COLLECTION - reconstruct
Top
Bergamot,
Lemon Peel
Middle
Orchid,
SECRET Neroli, Magnolia Blossom
Base
NANA
REMEDY Bourbon Vanilla,
Tonka, White Musk CUSTARD
Benefits:
Vanilla: Enhances blood flow that
improves hair growth
Top Top
Apricot, Banana Leaf,
Orange Zest, Anise Nectarine, Honeycrisp
Middle Middle
SUBLIME
Heliotrope, Tropical Hibiscus,
Coco Water, Jasmine Petals Thai Coconut Milk
REPAIR
Base Base
Atlas Cedar, Creamy Musk,
Sandalwood, Vanilla Musk Vanilla Bean, Sugared Tonka
Benefits: Benefits:
Coconut: Prevents hair breakage Banana: Have amino acids that help
and split ends, contributing to hair length protect hair from environmental damage
& citric acid that makes hair shiny
25∙ Perfume your world ∙
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