Textile Industry: Regulatory Key Points - Sensient Inks
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
Textile Industry: Regulatory Key Points
INTRODUCTION
In the last few years, all the big players of The present document written by the Sensient Regulatory
Department aims at sharing our deep knowledge of the various
textile industry have published standards customers and generic standards applicable for textile all
and customer requirements, demonstrating over the world. After a presentation of the main substances of
their will to improve their practices and concern and their adverse effects in part 1, you will find in
include sustainability and health-protection part 2 some presentations of the main generic standards and
of some specific customer standards.
in their strategy.
For any additional request or precision,
As a key-actor of the supply-chain with its digital printing inks,
and given SENSIENT Corporate great awareness of Quality &
please contact us directly:
Product Safety, Sensient Imaging Technologies has long been
allocating resources to assess and ensure the compliance of
Nathalène Hippolite
their inks, thanks to a well-organized and qualified Regulatory Director, Quality & Regulatory
Compliance Department. nathalene.hippolite@sensient.com
Because of the legal implications, our Regulatory Department
proceeds to a precise assessment before providing any
Coraline Matthey
compliance certificate for a set of ink. These assessments are Regulatory Specialist
based on: coraline.matthey@sensient.com
• evaluation of all information coming from our
raw materials suppliers
Aurélie Sprunger
• analyses and measures done either internally Regulatory Specialist
or externally by qualified laboratories aurelie.sprunger@sensient.com
This level of assessment gives therefore a real value to the
provided certificates.
Although they all have the same goal, there are many
differences from one standard to another:
• some apply to finished printed goods where others
apply to chemicals used in the process
• the list of forbidden impurities or the maximum
acceptable amount of limited impurities vary
from one standard to another
• some standard require external certification by a
third party
2
CONTENT
1. SUBSTANCES OF CONCERN 4
Formaldehyde 4
Alkylphenol (AP) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates 4
(APEOs) / Nonylphenol (NP) and Nonylphenol
Ethoxylates (NPEOs)
Heavy metals 4
Allergenic dyes, Azo-dyes and Carcinogenic dyes 5
Halogenated Solvents 5
Chlorobenzenes + Chlorotoluenes 5
Chlorophenols 5
Organotin compounds 6
Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAH) /
Naphthalene 6
Phthalates 6
Short-Chain Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCPs) 6
Flame retardants 7
Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs) 7
Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) 7
2.TEXTILE STANDARDS 8
A. Generic standards 8
OEKO-TEX 8
ZDHC 10
GOTS 11
B. Customer specific standards 12
ADIDAS 12
INDITEX 13
NIKE 14
3
1
SUBSTANCES
OF CONCERN
Over the past years, studies have been lkylphenol (AP) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates
A
done and are still carried out in order to (APEOs) / Nonylphenol (NP) and Nonylphenol
determine the effect on human health of Ethoxylates (NPEOs)
substances to whom we are exposed. Those Alkylphenol ethoxylates are surfactants which have an
studies have shown that some groups of emulsifying and dispersing action. They can be used in the
molecules have a negative effect on human textile industry as detergents, coating or waterproofing agents.
health and are now restricted or banned The most important group of APEO for textile industry are
NPEO. Both APEO and NPEO break down in the environment
for the manufacture of textile. Here is a to form metabolites as the Alkylphenols (AP) and Nonylphenol
summary of the major groups of substances (NP) which are more toxic than the original APEO or NPEO.
of concern for the textile industry: Those groups of substances are restricted as they are very
persistent in nature, do not degrade in sewage treatment and
therefore accumulate into surface waters. They are toxic to
Formaldehyde many aquatic organisms and have estrogenic effects in aquatic
ecosystems. APEOs may also impair human fertility and cause
Formaldehyde (CAS N° 50-00-0) is a volatile chemical widely harm to unborn child above certain exposure level. They are
used in the textile and leather industries as anti-wrinkling also having endocrine disruptive (hormone-like) properties.
and anti-shrinking agent for cotton products or as dyeing
and printing fixative. Formaldehyde is restricted as it causes
Heavy metals
sensory irritation and strong skin sensitization. It irritates
the mucous membranes and the respiratory tract, leading to
Heavy metals are especially contained at high level in dyes
adverse effects such as watery eyes; burning sensations in the
and pigments and are known to be toxic to the human body
eyes, nose and throat; coughing; nausea, etc. Formaldehyde is
and the environment. Heavy metals can be naturally present
also known to be a carcinogen.
in textile fibres or penetrate into the textile during the dyeing
process. The list of heavy metals tested in the different textile
standards includes:
Antimony (Sb), Arsenic (As), Barium (Ba), Cadmium (Cd),
Chromium (Cr), Chromium VI (CrVI), Cobalt (Co), Copper (Cu),
Iron (Fe), Lead (Pb), Manganese (Mn), Mercury (Hg), Nickel (Ni),
Selenium (Se), Silver (Ag), Tin (Sn) and Zinc (Zn).
4
Allergenic dyes, Azo-dyes and Carcinogenic dyes Organotin compounds
Azo dyes are colorants which contain one or more Azo Groups Organotin compounds are used in the textile industry for their
(-N=N-). Those azo groups can break down and form aromatic antifungal and antibacterial properties in order to prevent
amines. The European REACH Regulation EC N° 1907/2006 clothes and underwear from smelling bad. They can also be
restricts the presence in textile and leather of 22 arylamines found in polyvinyl chloride (PVC) materials, polyurethane (PU)
which are known to have carcinogenic properties. This coatings where they are used as heat stabilisers. Their use is
regulation also restricts 9 dyes which are carcinogenic and restricted because they can be toxic to aquatic life and may
more than 20 disperse dyes which are allergenic. Those damage fertility or the unborn child if a high concentration is
dyes are restricted due to their carcinogenic or allergenic absorbed through the skin. The list of organotin compounds in
properties as they can be absorbed through the skin with the different textile standard includes:
prolonged skin contact.
Dibutyltin (DBT), Dimethyltin (DMT), Dioctyltin (DOT), Diphenyltin
(DPhT), Dipropyltin (DPT), Monomethyltin (MMT), Monobutyltin
Halogenated Solvents
(MBT), Monooctyltin (MOT), Monophenyltin (MPhT), Tetrabutyltin
(TeBT), Tetraethyltin (TeET), Tributyltin (TBT), Tricyclohexyltin
Halogenated solvents are a large class of aliphatic substances
(TCyHT), Trimethyltin (TMT), Trioctyltin (TOT), Triphenyltin (TPhT),
which contain at least one halogen atom (Chlorine, Bromine,
Tripropyltin (TPT).
Iodine or Fluorine). They can be used in the textile process
as scouring solvent, foam agents, dye intermediates, etc. The
European Union as well as other legislation have restricted the Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAH)
use of halogenated solvents as those substances may induce / Naphthalene
particular cancers at certain exposure levels and are toxic
to aquatic organisms. The list of halogenated solvents in the Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons and Naphthalene can be
different textile standard includes among others: present as impurities in pigments and dyestuff as they can
be used as an intermediate in their production. Their use is
1,2-dichloroethane, Methylene chloride, Trichloroethylene, restricted because they can be very toxic to aquatic organisms
Tetrachloroethylene. and may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic
environment. Exposure to PAH above certain level may result
Chlorobenzenes + Chlorotoluenes in development of particular cancers as well as impair human
fertility or cause harm to unborn children.
Chlorobenzenes and chlorotoluenes are commonly used as
auxiliaries for dyeing, printing and coating of textile. These Toluene
substances are restricted because they can be very toxic to
aquatic life; they are also toxic by inhalation or skin contact Toluene, also known as methylbenzene, is a solvent used
and therefore may result in the development of particular principally in the apparel and footwear industry. It can be
cancers. The list of chlorobenzenes and chlorotoluenes in the found in fabric-printing inks, adhesives, etc. Its use is restricted
different textile standards includes: because it can cause adverse health effects if inhaled for
a long time; it may also cause cancer, is reprotoxic and can
Chlorobenzenes, Dichlorobenzenes, Trichlorobenzenes, damage forests and crops because of its contribution to the
Tetrachlorobenzenes, Pentachlorobenzenes, formation of smog.
Hexachlorobenzenes, Chlorotoluenes, Dichlorotoluenes,
Trichlorotoluenes, Tetrachlorotoluenes and Pentachlorotoluenes.
Chlorophenols
Chlorophenols are mainly used as pesticides and preservatives
to prevent mould spots caused by fungi in textile and leather
materials. Their use is restricted because they can be very
toxic to aquatic life; they are toxic if inhaled or if they enter
in contact with the skin and therefore may result in the
development of particular cancers. The list of chlorophenols
in the different textile standards includes:
Monochlorophenols (MCP), Dichlorophenols (DCP),
Trichlorophenols (TCP or TriCP), Tetrachlorophenols (TeCP) and
Pentachlorophenols (PCP).
5
Phthalates Flame retardants
Esters of ortho-phthalic acid (phthalates) are commonly Flame retardants are mainly polybrominated compounds which
added to plastics to soften them. They can also be used in are added to the textile fibres in order to prevent or slow the
polyurethane or printing inks/paste. Not all phthalates have development of ignition. Their use is almost always forbidden
the same human health effect. Some phthalates may impair (sometimes they are just restricted) because prolonged
human fertility and cause harm to unborn children and others exposure to flame retardants can weaken the immune system,
are human carcinogens. The list of phthalates in the different cause amnesia or joint stiffness. The list of flame retardants in
textile standard includes among others: the different textile standard includes among others:
DEHP, DMEP, DNOP, DIDP, DINP, DnHP, DBP, DHNUP, DIHP, BBP, PBB, BBPP, TRIS, TEPA, TetraBDE, PentaBDE, HexaBDE,
DNP, DEP, DPRP, DIBP, DCHP, DIOP. HeptaBDE, OctaBDE, DecaBDE, BBMP, BIS, HBCDD, TBBPA, TCEP,
TDCPP, TXP.
Short-Chain Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCPs)
Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs)
Short-Chain Chlorinated Paraffins are complex mixtures of
polychlorinated hydrocarbons with chain lengths ranging from Per - and polyfluorinated compounds are mainly found in
C10 to C13 and a content of chlorine between 20% and 70%. apparel and footwear industry where they are used to make
Short-Chain Chlorinated Paraffins can be found in inks, paints, textile and leather finishes more resistant to water, oil and
plastic and adhesives where they are used as plasticizers or stains. Their use is restricted because they are very toxic to
flame retardants. SCCPs are listed as Substances of Very High aquatic life and to humans because they are persistent and
Concern for Authorisation (SVHC) by the European Chemicals may accumulate in humans and mammals. The exposure to
Agency (ECHA). Their use is restricted because SCCPs are these substances, exceeding the authorized limits, may be the
suspected of causing cancer. They are classified as persistent cause of cancers, human fertility and can harm the unborn
organic pollutants (POP), can be very toxic to aquatic child. The list of perfluorinated and polyfluorinated chemicals
organisms and may also cause skin dryness and cracking in (PFCs) in the different textile standard includes among others:
case of regular exposition.
PFOS, PFOSA, PFOSF, N-Me-FOSA, N-Et-FOSA, N-Me-FOSE,
N-Et-FOSE, PFOA, PFHpA, PFNA, PFDA, PFUdA, PFDoA, PFTrDA,
PFTeDA.
Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)
Volatile organic compounds are a large group of chemicals
that can be found in many everyday products such as paint,
varnishes, inks, cleaning and cosmetic products. Their use is
restricted because some of them are carcinogenic while others
are very toxic and irritant and contribute to the formation of
smog. The list of volatile organic compounds includes among
others:
Benzene, Carbon tetrachloride, Chloroform,
1,2-Dichloroethane, 1,1-Dichloroethylene, Dimethylacetamide
(DMAC), Pentachloroethane, 1,1,1,2-Tetrachloroethane,
1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane, Tetrachloroethylene (PER), Toluene,
1,1,1-Trichloroethane, 1,1,2-Trichloroethane, Trichloroethylene,
Xylenes (meta-, ortho-, para-).
6
2
TEXTILE
STANDARDS
A) Generic standards
OEKO-TEX
OEKO-TEX®, The International Association for Research and The validity period of the certificate is 12 months.
Testing in the Field of Textile and Leather Ecology was founded
in 1992. It is a union of 18 independent textile research and test The limit values for the certification may be found at the
institutes providing tests and standards to ensure responsible following website: https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/business/
and sustainable management within the textiles industry. The certifications_and_services/ots_100/ots_100_limit_values/ots_100_
main mission of OEKO-TEX® is to ensure to have no harmful limit_values.html
effect on the human and environmental health of the printed
textiles. OEKO-TEX® offers the textile industries many services,
for example STANDARD 100 and ECO PASSPORT. ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX®
https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/business/business_home/business_ ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® is the comprehensive
home.xhtml verification and certification system for textile chemicals,
colorants and auxiliaries and this service exists since April
2016. It is a mechanism by which textile chemical suppliers
STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®
can show that their products can be used in a sustainable
textile production. The verification process to obtain an ECO
STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® lists banned or regulated
PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® certificate is done in two steps.
harmful substances in order to provide consumers with
products that are safe for their health. To ensure the product
• 1st step : Restricted Substance List (RSL) and
safety, analyses are carried out by independent laboratories
Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL)
throughout the manufacturing process, namely on the raw,
screening – this step consists of a comparison of
semi-finished and finished textiles as well as accessories
the substances contained in the chemical with the
materials and toys.
substances listed in ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® with
the RSL of STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®, the MRSL of
Based on these laboratory test results, the STANDARD 100 by
ZDHC and the SVHC (Substances of Very High Concern)
OEKO-TEX® certificate can be delivered to the manufacturers.
list of REACH.
They will then be able to deposit on their textile products a
label, which is easily identifiable by consumers. • 2nd step : Analytical verification is carried out by
an independent laboratory to ensure that restricted
It is also important to specify that the STANDARD 100 by OEKO- substances listed in the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®
TEX® differentiate 4 product classes according to the end use. are not present in critical concentrations.
Indeed, requirements vary depending on the sensitivity of the
skin as well as the proximity of the textile with the skin: This mechanism allows manufacturers to demonstrate that
their products containing chemical compounds have no
• Product Class I: Textiles, accessories, toys for babies and harmful effect on the human and environmental health of the
toddlers under 3 years textile treated.
• Product Class II: Textiles that are intended to be worn
The main benefit of this certification is that chemical products
close to the skin like underwear, t-shirt, trousers, etc.
are approved for use in STANDARD 100 certified products.
• Product Class III: Textiles that are usually worn over It is nevertheless necessary to assess the color fastness and
other clothes like jackets, coats, etc. extractable heavy metals on treated textiles in order to be
sure that the requirements of STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®
• Product Class IV: Textiles that are used as accessories,
are met.
furniture, decoration, etc.
7
The ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® certificate can be issued The MRSL is divided into two groups:
with restrictions if the test results exceed the threshold values
but are below a factor 10. This means that the parameters have • Group A defines banned substances for suppliers of raw
to be tested on the treated textiles to ensure their compliance materials and finished products
with the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®.
• Group B defines limits of hazardous chemicals for
suppliers of chemical formulations
The validity period of the certificate is 12 months.
Be careful, the ZDHC MRSL does not replace any legal or
The limit values for the certification may be found at the
brand-specific restrictions on hazardous substances in
following website: https://www.oeko-tex.com/media/init_data/
finished products.
downloads/ECO%20PASSPORT%20by%20OEKO-TEX®%20-%20
Standard.pdf
Brands covered by ZDHC MRSL are :
SENSIENT products Adidas, Burberry, C&A, Coop, Esprit, F&F, Gap Inc., G-Star Raw,
H&M, Inditex, Jack Wolfskin, Lbrands, Levi Strauss & Co., Li-Ning,
Our ELVAJET OPAL SC and ELVAJET OPAL SB inks series Marks & Spencer, NB, Nike Inc., Primark, Puma, PVH, United Color
earned the ECO PASSPORT certification. Please find our of Benetton, Hugo Boss, Target, Kering
certificates at the end of this document.
The MRSL and threshold values can be found at the following
website: https://mrsl.roadmaptozero.com/MRSL2_0
You can consult the list of certified products and the validity of
the certificates at the following website: https://www.oeko-tex.
A new version (V2.0) was released on November 27, 2019. A transition
com/en/business/oeko_tex_certified_products/oeko_tex_certified_
period for users of ZDHC to fully comply with the new version will be
products.xhtml
one year.
ZDHC
GOTS
Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) was founded
in 2011 by apparel and footwear brands and retailers. Their The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is recognized
intend was to provide brands and suppliers a harmonized worldwide for organic fabric (products made from natural fibers
approach to manage chemicals during processing of chemicals but does not include leather products) and its first version
within the supply chain. Thanks to sustainable chemistry, was launched in 2005. The goal of this standard is to ensure
consumers, workers and the environment are protected from organic status of textile during the whole textile processing
hazardous chemicals. (from harvesting of the raw material up to the labelling of the
finished goods). In order to be GOTS certified, the textiles must
ZDHC has defined chemical substances subject to a usage be made from at least 70% of organic natural fibers and the
ban, the so-called “ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substance chemical compounds used during the processing have to be
List (MRSL)”, which was first published in 2014. This list applies GOTS approved to ensure that they meet certain health and
to chemicals used in facilities that process materials and trim environment criteria.
parts for use in apparel and footwear. The MRSL has also
GOTS list prohibited and restricted chemical inputs in order to
established acceptable threshold for chemicals that can be
provide consumers with finished goods that respect workers,
found as impurities or by-products in formulations intended for
environment as well as the health and safety of the consumers.
later use in manufacturing facilities.
For printing, a special attention is paid to chlorophenols,
fluorocarbons, formaldehyde, halogenated solvents, heavy
metals, organotin compounds, plasticizers, disperse dyes
classified as sensitizing and allergenic, etc.
The certification is delivered by a GOTS approved certifier and
is based on the toxicological data and the composition of the
inks given in the material safety data sheets (MSDS).
The validity period of the certificate is 12 months.
The last version (5.0, released on March 2017) of the Global
Organic Textile Standard can be found at the following website:
http://www.global-standard.org/images/GOTS_Documents/
GOTS_Standard_5.0.pdf
A new version (V6.0) will be released in March 2020. Chemical
industries will have a transition period of 12 months to implement
GOTS V6.0.
8
SENSIENT products
Our XENNIA AMETHYST KY inks series earned the GOTS
certification.
the testing should be redone even though no parameter in the
end product has been changed.
Please find the certificate at the end of this document.
The following parameter are tested: Heavy metal, Phenol,
Azo Amines, Formaldehyde, disperse dyes and dyestuffs,
Organotin compounds, Phthalates, Nonylphenols, Short Chain
B) Customer specific standards Chlorinated Paraffin and Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons.
Testing requirements are not required if the ink is certified
Major brands have developed their own according to OEKO-TEX® Standard 100.
specific requirements and Restricted
Substances Lists. Those chemical standards INDITEX
for materials meet or exceed regulatory or
INDITEX is one of the world’s largest fashion retailers, with
legislative requirements from around the eight brands (Zara, Pull&Bear, Massimo Dutti, Bershka,
world and include substances that have Stradivarius, Oysho, Zara Home and Uterqüe) and 7,475 stores
voluntarily been restricted or limited in in 96 markets around the world.
the products.
https://www.inditex.com/
As an illustration, you will find below Inditex has different standards applicable to their brands:
three examples of such customer specific
standards. • Clear to Wear (CTW) regulates substances whose use is
legally limited and which could be hazardous for human
health if present in the product above certain levels. The
ADIDAS finished goods purchased by INDITEX have to comply to CTW
Employing nearly 60 000 people from over 100 countries, • Ready to Manufacture (RTM) is the manufacturing code
ADIDAS produce more than 900 million product units every year of general application and mandatory compliance for all
and generate sales of € 21.218 billion (all figures relate to 2017). suppliers who manufacture, commercialize and/or distribute
for INDITEX brands. Consequently, it does not apply to ink
https://www.adidas-group.com/en/ manufacturers but to the companies using the ink (mills and
printing companies).
ADIDAS A01 defines ADIDAS guidelines to manage and control
technical requirements and certification tests for all materials Testing requirements:
supplied to the ADIDAS GROUP. It is applicable to all products
branded by ADIDAS such as ADIDAS, Reebok, RockPort and For final approbation, INDITEX request their supplier to
ADIDAS Golf. It also applicable to their different product proceed to various analyses on the finished goods, including
categories: Sports shoes, Accessories & Sport equipment and pH, colour-fastness to perspiration, water, rubbing, and
Sportswear and is renewed each year. various chemicals such as formaldehyde, arylamines or fiber
composition.
Testing requirements:
The final approbation of ADIDAS is done on the finished good.
In order for a product to be accepted by ADIDAS, it should
be tested by a certified laboratory. This approval through
analytical testing will then be valid for one year. After one year
9
In order to facilitate the fulfilment of their requirements, testing will then be valid for one year. After one year the
INDITEX has published “The List by INDITEX”, a register of testing should be redone even though no parameter in the end
selected chemicals. However, the use of chemical products product has been changed.
included in “The List by INDITEX” is not mandatory and any
other chemical product not included in this document can The following parameters are tested: Heavy metal, Azo Amines,
be used as long as tests are performed according to INDITEX Formaldehyde, disperse dyes and dyestuffs, Tin screening,
requirements. Phthalates, Nonylphenols and PVC.
NIKE
This information is provided as a convenience and for informational purposes only.
No guarantee or warranty as to this information, or any product to which it relates,
NIKE, Inc., based near Beaverton, Oregon, is the world’s
is given or implied. Sensient disclaims all warranties express or implied, including
leading designer, marketer and distributor of authentic merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose as to (i) such information, (ii)
athletic footwear, apparel, equipment and accessories for a any product or (iii) intellectual property infringement. In no event is Sensient
wide variety of sports and fitness activities. Wholly-owned responsible for, and Sensient does not accept and hereby disclaims liability for, any
NIKE, Inc. subsidiary brands include Converse, which designs, damages whatsoever in connection with the use of or reliance on this information
or any product to which it relates.
markets and distributes athletic lifestyle footwear, apparel and
accessories; and Hurley, which designs, markets and distributes © 2019 Sensient Technologies Corporation. All rights reserved. SENSIENT, SENSIENT
surf and youth lifestyle footwear, apparel and accessories. For TECHNOLOGIES, WE BRING LIFE TO PRODUCTS, ELVAJET, the SENSIENT logo
more information, visit http://news.nike.com. is registered trademark of Sensient Technologies Corporation. Unless otherwise
indicated, all other trademarks, service marks and logos and images that appear on
this document are owned by Sensient Technologies Corporation or its subsidiaries
NIKE RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE LIST & Sustainable or affiliates.
chemistry guidance is the chemical standard defining Nike
commitment to protect customers, workers and environment
through a sustainable program.
This standard is applicable to all products branded by Nike
such as Nike, Converse, Nike Golf and Hurley. It applies to
their different product categories: Shoes, Accessories &
Equipment and Sportswear. However, the maximum allowable
concentration in product differs from one product category to
another, which means that a product conform for one product
category might not be conform to another product category.
Testing requirements:
The final approbation of NIKE is done on the finished good. In
order for a product to be accepted by NIKE, it should be tested
by a certified laboratory. This approval through analytical
1011
12
13
14
15
16
Sensient Imaging Technologies S.A. Specialty Inks and Colors Z.I. Riond-Bosson 8 CH-1110 Morges 2 Switzerland Tél. +41(0)21 811 2300 Fax +41(0)21 811 2311 Sensientinkjet.com
You can also read
