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BUYINGGUIDE
FEBRUARY
Snow blankets a
Pinot Noir vineyard
in Oregon’s
Willamette Valley.
2015
JANIS MIGLAVS/DANITA DELIMONT
IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE
2 OREGON 59 BORDEAUX 79 LOMBARDY
25 CALIFORNIA 67 RHÔNE 79 CENTRAL ITALY
47 ARGENTINA 70 GERMANY 86 SPIRITS
52 SPAIN 76 NORTHEAST ITALY 88 BEERS
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM
WINEMAG.COM | 1
The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine
Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular
contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior
Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Manag-
ing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Tasting Coordinator Alexander Peartree,
Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike
DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New
York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin
O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in Eng-
land; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt
97 Wayfarer 2012 The Traveler Pinot Noir (Fort
Ross-Seaview). From an estate block planted
to a mysterious suitcase clone, this is an insanely 95 Hess Collection 2012 Small Block Series
Malbec (Mount Veeder). From one of the
Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and
Sean Sullivan in Washington. memorable and indelible Pinot. High in acidity, few Napa Valley wineries to showcase Malbec, this
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- it discloses a touch of cedar on the back palate, wine is a testament to the virtues of that devotion.
tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow-
ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review-
richly luxurious and just aching for wild Sonoma It offers rich, dreamy flavors of blueberry cobbler,
ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. duck adorned in a cherry reduction sauce. Cherry blackberry and licorice, lifted acidity and plush, soft
Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman pit, berry, lavender and violet play on the nose and tannins, all gorgeously finished in spicy chocolate
and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its tongue, infusing the wine with a playfulness bal- and vanilla. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us anced by power. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $50
by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14.5% Price: $125
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices
are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind.
Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8
samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight
usiast
to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never
the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible,
products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.
de ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
reviews of new-release
Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality.
ucts evaluated by Wine
Superb 94–97: A great achievement.
Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended.
ualified tasters. Regular
95
Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended.
Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption;
Ponzi 2012 Aurora Vineyard Pinot Noir (Wil-
Tasting Director/Senior
san Kostrzewa, Manag-
often good value.
Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less-
critical circumstances.
96 Ponzi 2012 Aurora Vineyard Chardonnay
(Willamette Valley). This sensational effort
comes from 20-year-old vines. It’s a glorious wine;
lamette Valley). A potpourri of exotic
scents and flavors, this vineyard selection opens
with scents of rose, raspberry, lavender and tea. The
ator Alexander
points) are Peartree,
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
not reviewed.
textural, generous and complex. The bright and palate is generous and complex, mixing in nutmeg,
fruity midpalate blends flavors of peach, quince, chocolate, star anise and cola. Although it promises
Anna LeeSPECIAL
C. Iijima, Mike
DESIGNATIONS honey, tea and caramel, buoyed by juicy acidity and many years of life ahead, it’s already too good to re-
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual-
r Kara Newman in New
97
ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price a touch of minerality. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. sist. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
with unique qualities that merit special attention.
nce; ItalianCellarEditor Kerin Wayfarer
abv: 13.9% 2012 The Traveler
Price: $60Pinot Noir
abv: 13.9% (Fort Price: $100
95
Selections are products deemed highly collectible
or Anne Krebiehl Ross-Seaview). From an estate block planted Hess
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
in Eng-
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
, Jim Gordon and Matt
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.to a mysterious suitcase clone, this is an insanely
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
Malb
Editors Paul Gregutt
Best and that offer a high level of quality in
Buys are products
memorable and indelible Pinot. High in acidity,
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for
determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are gener-
few Napa Va
viewer, that taster’s ini-
ally priced at $15 or less.
it discloses a touch of cedar on the back palate, wine is a tes
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
o initials appear follow-
Products should
by two orcation
more review-
richly luxurious and just aching for wild Sonoma
be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo-
as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ It offers rich
contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review
the inputnet.of allis tasters. duck
Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.
adornedElk in Cove a cherry reduction sauce. Devil Cherry blackberry a
s are by isKara
There
no guarantee
no charge for submitting products. We
Newman
make
every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there 95
pit,or berry,group
that all products submitted will be tasted,
mette
lavender
2012
Valley).
Roosevelt Pinot
A
and
of 2012 releases
star
from Elk
even
violet
Noir (Willa-
among a
Cove, thisplay
stellar
20-year-on the
94 nose
out all
ander
Proof 2012 Farrow Ranch Malbec
Valley).
and
the stops
Winemaker Jesse Katz
(Alex-
pulled
tannins,
to craft this small-production Mal- all
o. that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be
name of the tongue, infusing
accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may
product, its
be downloaded from our Web site.
old vineyard
thearomatics,
really
tempered the herbal wine
delivers the
with
giving this rich,a
goods. Time
ripeplayfulness
has bec, proving
bal-results. Having spent
that
can yield crazy-good
the right fruit in the
and timevanilla.
right hands
ag-
LABELS
(abv) asLabels
reported to us Producers and importers are
are paid promotions. anced
given by ry,power. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. to open, but once it does, look out. Concentrated
effort a subtle subtext of olive and sage. Black cher-
dark chocolate and a dusty, mocha finish with
abv: 14.2%
ing in 100% new French oak, the wine needs time
price or alcohol
printed alongcontent
the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and
abv: 14.5%
with tasting notes and scores. For information a hint of habanero pepper bring this wine together
Price: $125
swirls of wild blackberry and truffle are framed
) will be 866.896.8786;
printed.orPrices
on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax
email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net.
beautifully. Delicious already, it should continue to
improve 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
by soft tannins and measured acidity. Drink now
through 2024, easily. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
ndicated. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at abv: 14% Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $80
buyingguide.winemag.com
S
e are performed blind. WINEMAG.COM | 3
oup flights of from 5–8
ormation about a flight
pick out, and the texture is soft and easy to swallow.
Best Buy. —J.G. CALIFORNIA
abv: 10.5% Price: $23/3 L
pick out, and the texture is soft and easy to swallow.
CALIFORNIA
RED WINES
finely honed tannins and a lingering, spicy finish.
85 LXV 2013 Dark Romance Chenin Blanc (Paso
Best Buy. —J.G. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
w. finely honed tannins andabv:
a 13.9%
lingering, spicy finish.
to swallow.
abv: 10.5%
CALIFORNIA Price: $23/3 L
Robles). Promising aromas ofRED WINES
tangerine, finely —V.B. PINOT
honed tannins NOIR spicy Price:
and a lingering, finish.
$75
CALIFORNIA
Editors’ Choice.
L
85 LXV 2013 Darklight Romance honeyChenin andBlanc plumeria
(Paso flowers make a good intro- abv: 13.9% Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
94 Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Dutton Ranch Free-
Price: $75
97
PINOT NOIR
rice: $23/3 L
Robles). Promising
RED WINES
aromas of tangerine,
duction to this rare look at Chenin Blanc in Paso Ro- abv: 13.9% Wayfarer 2012 The stone Hill Vineyard
Traveler PinotPinot
Noir (Russian River
Noir (Fort
Price: $75
RED WINES
allow. finely honed tannins and a lingering, spicy
page 4. finish.
CALIFORNIA
light honey and plumeria flowers make a good intro- Valley). For full review see
94 94
bles. TheBlanc flavors fall a bit flat, though, proving very Ross-Seaview). For full review see Price: page$723.
o
Blanc
e,
duction to this rare look
bles. The flavors fall a round
(Paso
at Chenin
97
PINOT NOIR
with aproving
bit flat, though,
in Paso
just avery
Ro-
hint of chopped
Wayfarer 2012
herbs. —M.K.
Ross-Seaview).
The Traveler Dutton-Goldfield
Pinot
Editors’
Noir
For full review see Editors’
stone
(Fort
Choice.
page 3.
Hill
—V.B.
Choice.
2012 Dutton Ranch Free-
abv:
Dutton-Goldfield
Vineyard
13.5%
Pinot Noir 2012
2012(Russian
Dutton River Ranch Free-
23/3 L round with a just a hintabv:
- tangerine,
abv: 13.6%
of chopped herbs. —M.K.
REDPINOT
WINES
13.6%
NOIR Price: $35
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35 abv: 13.9% abv: 14.5%
stone
Valley). For full review see page 4.
Price: $125 Hill94 Fritz
Vineyard
Valley).
Reserve Pinot
Pinot
This Noir
offers a
Price:
(Russian
well-defined
$75
Noir (Russian
Price:River
River
$125
balance
97 97 PINOT NOIR 94 96
-good intro-
(Paso Wayfarer 2012 The Traveler Pinot Noir (Fort abv: 13.5% Valley). For fullbetween
Dutton-Goldfield review ripe,
2012
juicy
seeDutton page cherry fruit and a seductive
4.Ranch
Price: $72Free-
y in
erine, Paso Ro- 96
Ross-Seaview).
ROSÉS ROSÉS Wayfarer For 2012
full The
review Traveler
see page
Wayfarer 2012 Golden Mean Pinot Noir
Pinot 3. Noir (Fort
Ross-Seaview). Crafted from estate-grown abv:
(Fort Wayfarer
13.5%
stone HillRoss-Seaview).
earthiness
Vineyard
2012
tured andPinot
that
medium
Golden
Noir
Mean
keeps every
(Russian
in weight,
sipPinot
it’s a River
Crafted from estate-grown fine
NoirStruc-
intriguing.
Price:
(Fort
choice$72 for
94 94
roving
ntro- very Editors’ Choice. Ross-Seaview). For full review
fruit—a see
marriage page
of Pommard3. Fritz
and Swan
Valley). For 2012
clones— Reserve
full review thePinot
table, the
seeof Noir
page (Russian
spiciness
4. on theRiverback palate particu-
fruit—a marriage Pommard and worthand Swan—V.B. clones—
90
—M.K. abv:De Loach 2013 Olivet Bench Estate Vineyard Golden Mean comes from three distinct vineyard larly well-honed recognition.
97 90
bs.
5o Ro- 14.5% Editors’
Wayfarer Choice.
(Russian2012 The Traveler Price:
Pinot $125
Noir (Fort abv: Valley).
13.5% ThisFritzoffers
2012 aReserve
well-defined Pinot Noir balance (Russian
Price: $72 River
Pinot Noir Rosé De Loach 2013 Olivet Bench Estate Vineyard
River Valley). Rich blocks, the Pommard fermented Golden Mean comes from three distinct
whole-cluster. It abv: 14.4% vineyard
Price: $50
g veryPrice: $35
in red and yellowabv: hues,14.5%
Ross-Seaview). For full Price:
ripe $125 between ripe, juicy Valley).
cherryThis fruit offers and aawell-defined
seductive balance
Roséreview seewith page 3.
this wine is refreshing in opens dark, layers of lush cherry-vanilla,
Pinotand Noir (Russian River Valley). Rich blocks, the Pommard fermented whole-cluster. It
96 96 94 94
M.K.
strawberry and
Editors’
dark cherry2012
Wayfarer Choice.
fruit, supple
Golden bright, Pinot the
Mean Noir wine concentrated andearthiness
(Fort rich in oak yet between
balanced
that
Fritz keeps
2012 ripe,every juicy
Reserve sip cherry
Ken
Pinot
Brown 2010
intriguing.
Noirfruit and La
Rancho
Struc-
(Russian aRiver
seductive
Viña Vineyard
the acidity providing ainliftred on the and yellow
palate and long- hues, thisin wine acidity. is On refreshing
the finish is a in mix of leather, opens
licorice with dark, ripe Pinot layers
Noir (Sta. ofRita
lush cherry-vanilla,
Hills). Black cherry,
e: $35 lasting finish. abv:Ross-Seaview).
14.5%strawberry Wayfarer
hold Crafted 2012 Golden
from Mean
estate-grown Pinot
Price: Noir
herb.$125 (Fort tured earthiness
and2020–2022.
medium
Valley). inthat
weight, keeps it’saevery finesip
awell-defined intriguing.
choice for Struc-
Structured, it’ll and
up to dark cherry fruit,
pairings and wild supple anditbright,
Tuck away through the wineThis offers
concentrated
blueberry and and richcombine
blackberry in oak balance
yet
for balanced
a rewardingly
andfruit—a
continue to marriage
maintain its Ross-Seaview).
of Pommard
freshness and
over time. Crafted
Swan from
clones—
Cellar estate-grown
Selection. —V.B. the table, the tured and
spiciness medium
onrich,the in
ripe backweight,
nose, layeredit’s
palate a
particu-
with fine
flecks ofchoice
graphite forand
the acidity providing a lift on the palate and long- between inripe,
acidity. juicy On cherry
the finish fruit is and
a mixa ofseductive
leather, licorice
96
—V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $115 chai-like spice. The palate is driven at first by black
d Golden Mean fruit—a comes
Wayfarer marriage
from Golden
2012 of Pommard
three distinctit’ll and
vineyard Swan clones— larlyearthiness the table,
well-honed and the
worth spiciness
recognition. on the back palate
—V.B. particu-
abv: 13.5% lasting finish. $25Mean Pinot
Structured,
Price: Noir
hold (Fort
up to pairings andthat wildkeepsherb.soil every
Tuck sip
elements, intriguing.
itevolving
away into cookedStruc-
through 2020–2022.
cherries, tar and
hte Vineyard blocks, theGolden Mean comes from three distinct vineyard abv: 14.4% larly well-honed and worth recognition.
Price: $50 —V.B.
95
Pommard
Ross-Seaview).
and continue to fermented Crafted whole-cluster.
maintain fromitsestate-grown It
freshness over time. tured and
Trombetta 2012 Gap’s Crown Vineyard medium
Pinot
Cellar in weight,
Selection.bitter —V.B.it’s a fine choice for
root vegetables, yet possessing a strawberry
nalley). Rich
89
opens with
Jericho
fruit—a blocks,
dark,
Canyon the 2013
ripe
Vineyard
marriage
(Napa Valley).—V.B.
Pommard
layers Estate
of Pommard of Rosé fermented
lush cherry-vanilla,
and Swan whole-cluster.
Noir (Sonoma Coast).
clones— It Dark, abv:
concentrated
the table, abv: 14.4%
the spiciness
14.5%
lightness as well. This is extremely complex
on the back palate particu- Price:
Price:$50
and as
$115
94 94
Light salmon-pink in color, and grippy, this is a sizable Pinot from a cool, cov- fresh as any more recent vintages. —M.K.
efreshing
t,eyard this in
the wine
Golden
refreshing
opens
concentrated
wine Mean
isabv:
with
made 13.5% comes
from
dark,
aand fromripein
rich
combination
layers
three of eted
ofoak distinct
yet lush
balanced cherry-vanilla,
vineyard
vineyard. JuicyPrice:
blue and $25 larlyKen
blackberry Brown
domi- 2010
well-honed
fruit andabv: Rancho
worth La Viña Vineyard
14.4%recognition. —V.B. Price: $60
95
-and
Richbright, in acidity.
Cabernet the
On
Sauvignon,
blocks, thewine
thePommard
Merlot, concentrated
finish
Cabernet is afermented
mixand
Franc and
of rich
leather, inlicorice
nate
whole-cluster.oak
on the yetnosebalanced abv:Pinot
and palate, surrounded
It 14.4% NoirKen
by exotic (Sta. Brown
TrombettaRita 2010 2012 Rancho
Hills). BlackCrown
Gap’s LaPrice:
cherry,Viña
Vineyard Vineyard
$50 Pinot
94
89
esngand Petit
long- Verdot, which
in all provide
acidity. structure
On the and
finishcom- is a mix cedar,
of clove,
leather, oak and toffee,
licorice a swipe of vanilla lurk- Pinot Noir The
(Sta. 50 by
Rita 50 2012
Hills). Pinot
Black Noir (Sonoma
cherry,
and wild herb. Tuck it away
Jericho through
Canyon 2020–2022.
Vineyard 2013 blueberry and blackberry combine for a rewardingly
opensin with
in plexity. Subtle aroma dark,and flavor, ripe it islayers
light of lush
and cherry-vanilla,
ing behind theEstate RoséThe big tannins will Noir (Sonoma
front flavors. Coast).Coast). Dark,
For full review see concentrated
page 4. Editors’
94
to pairings
e.right, Cellar
tart, leaning and
theSelection.
wine
toward wild —V.B.
concentrated
intriguing herb.
(Napa
flavors ofTuck
and
pomegran- it away
Valley).
rich Light
in through
oak salmon-pink
yet balanced
appreciate 2020–2022.
time in the rich,
in cellar,
color, through blueberry
ripe2022–2024.
nose,andlayered
Ken Brown
grippy,andwith blackberry
2010
this
Choice. flecks
isRancho
a sizable combine
of graphite
La Viña
Pinot for a rewardingly
and
Vineyard
from a cool, cov-
over time.
ateabv: 14.5%
and cranberry. —V.B. Selection. —V.B.
Cellar Price:
Cellar $115
Selection. —V.B. chai-like spice. rich, ripe
The nose,
palate abv:layered
is driven
14.1% withat flecks
first by of
black graphite Price:and
$30
long- abv: 14.2%in acidity.this On refreshing
the finishPrice: wine
is a$40 is made
mix from alicorice
of leather,
abv: 14.2%
combination of eted vineyard.
Pinot
Price: $65
Noir (Sta. Juicy Rita blue and blackberry
Hills). Black cherry, fruit domi-
5 abv:Cabernet
14.5%TuckSauvignon, CabernetPrice:
Merlot,2020–2022. Franc $115 soil
and elements, chai-like
evolving
nateandon spice.
theinto The
nose cookedpalate
and is
cherries,
palate, driven taratand
surrounded first by
Vineyardby
black
exotic
94
irings and wild herb. it away through blueberry blackberry combine
Wayfarer for
2012 a rewardingly
Wayfarer Pinot Noir
95
Price:
88 95
time. $25 ArchiumTrombetta
2013 Petit
Rosé
Cellar Selection. —V.B. 2012
Verdot,
(Santa Gap’s
Barbara which Crown
County). all Vineyard
provide Pinot
structure
Wayfarer and
2012 bitter
com-
Mother Rock root
Pinot soil
Noir elements,
vegetables,
cedar,
(Fort clove, yetevolving
oak possessing
and
rich, ripe nose, layered with flecks of graphite and(Fort into
toffee, cooked
a strawberry
a
Ross-Seaview). swipe cherries,
An of vanilla
estate tar
blend and
lurk-
of 12
95
é MadeNoirentirely fromTrombetta
(Sonoma Grenache,Coast). this2012begins
Dark, Gap’s Crown
concentrated Vineyard
Ross-Seaview). Pinot
Brooding
lightnessin darkasbitter
cherry
well. androot
This vegetables,
is different
extremely yet
clones, possessing
this
complex dark ruby
and a
wine
as strawberry
is bristling in
with aromasabv:of14.5% plexity. Subtle in aroma and
pink lemonade and grapefruit. The
flavor,
earthyPrice:
it$115
spice, this
is fully
light and chai-like
figured wine
ing
spice.
offers well-in-
behind the
The palate front
acidity and
flavors. The
is driven
swirling inatflavorsfirstofbig by tannins
black
strawberry,
will
cherry
Estate
r,
e: $25 Rosé and
vibrant, grippy,
acid-driven thistart,
palate is Noir
a
is (Sonoma
sizable
leaning
dominated Pinot
toward
by Coast).
verve from
intriguinga Dark,
cool,flavors
tegrated concentrated
cov-
oak. of
With pomegran-
a savory fresh
and as any
powerful lightness
more
appreciate
profile, it as
recent well.
time
and This
vintages. in
soil elements, evolving into cooked cherries, tar and
wild the is
fennel. extremely
—M.K.
cellar,
Well through
integratedcomplex
and and
2022–2024.
concentrated, as
95
nk in color,
of andeted
zing, vineyard.and
with mostly grippy,
Juicy
citrus
Trombetta blue
ate and cranberry.
flavorsthis and
and is
2012 Gap’s a
not sizable
blackberry
—V.B.
much Pinot
fruit
has a
Crown Vineyard Pinotfrom
domi-
forcefula cool,
grip on cov-
the abv:
palate 14.4%
accentedfresh
bitter root Cellar
by as
black any more
Selection.
vegetables, it recent
yet—V.B.
offers a fully vintages.
balanced,
possessing a strawberry —M.K.
Price:
elegnat $60 expression of the
dRosé ripe
mbination of fruit. —M.K.
nate
abv: 13%
on theeted nose vineyard.
abv: and
14.2%
Noir (Sonoma Coast). Juicy
palate, blue
surrounded and
Price: $20 Dark, clones
tea, truffle and juicy vibrancy. From a mix of Dijon
blackberry
by exotic
concentrated fruit domi-
Price: $40 lightness abv: abv: 14.4%14.2%
as well. This
site. It provides a perfect introduction to the win-
islineup
extremely complex and Price:
Price:
as $60 $65
94 94
(37 and 777), some fermented whole-clus- ery’s of site-specific Pinots. Start here and
Franc and
-color, cedar, clove,nate oak on and the nose
toffee, and
a
and grippy, this is a sizable Pinot from a cool, cov- swipe palate,
of surrounded
vanilla
ter, thislurk-
is a by exotic
structured, wine The 50 by 50 2012
fresh as any more recent vintages. —M.K.
from a meticulously delve Pinot
deeper; thisNoir
wine (Sonoma
is both a preview of and
88 88 95 ForThe
de and
ion of com- ing Benessere
behind
eted cedar,
the Estate
2013
vineyard. clove,
front Juicy
St. oak
flavors.
Helena
Archium
blue and Thetoffee,
Vineyard
2013
and big
Rosé atannins
blackberry swipe
farmed of
(Santa vanilla
will
Barbara
coastal
fruit domi- lurk-Selection.
site. County).
Cellar
abv:Coast).
—V.B.
14.4% full 50
review
Wayfarer by2012
statement 50
see
of more2012
page
Mother Pinot
4.
to come. Editors’
Rock Noir
Pinot
Editors’
Price: (Sonoma
Noir—V.B.
Choice.
$60 (Fort
Rosato di Sangiovese (Napa Valley). This abv: 14.6% Price: $115 abv: 14.5% Price: $90
is- light and appreciate
c and dark-red nate Rosatoon
ing
time
hasthe
behind
90% in
nose the thecellar,
Made front
and palate,
Sangiovese
flavors.
through
entirely
and 10%
The
2022–2024.
from big
Grenache,
surrounded by exotic tanninsthis will Choice.
begins Coast). For
Ross-Seaview). full review
Brooding see page
in dark 4. Editors’
cherry and
94 94 94
pomegran-
com- Cellar
Zinfandel appreciate
Selection.
and
cedar, a tiny with
pinch
clove, oak —V.B.
of time
aromas
residual in
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pink
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and toffee, a swipe of vanilla lurk- through and 2022–2024.
grapefruit.
Babcock 2012 The
Radical Pinot Noir Choice.
abv: 14.1% The 50 by 50 2012 Pinot Noir
earthy
(Sta. Rita spice, this fully
Windward figured Price:(Sonoma
Vineyard wine2008 $30offers
Estate well-in-
Bottled
Hills). Buttered Monople Pinotand
Noir (Paso Robles).
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14.2%
ing CellarmidweightSelection.
vibrant, package
acid-drivendancing
—V.B. inpalate is dominated
Price: $65 by berries, bitterabv:
verve rhubarb,
14.1%
tegrated
Coast). oak. With a savory powerful This$30
Price:
profile, is anit
andbehind
raspberrythe flavorfront flavors.
of herb.The big tannins wetwill an- For full reviewclassicsee winepage 4. appellation
Editors’
94 94
strawberry and a finish bergamot, sage and pencil lead comprise exciting, from an not par-
Price: $40
gran- —V.B. appreciate abv:and 14.2%
time zing, in the withcellar, mostly citrusother
through flavors
2022–2024. and
fascinating Price:
nose$65
not much
from Wayfarer
Choice.
Bryan Babcok’s has twista2012
forceful
Wayfarer grip known
ticularly on
Vineyardthe forpalate
thisPinot
grape. accented
Noircherries,
Sour by citrus
black
95
). abv: 14.1%
CellarWayfarer ripe2012
Selection. fruit. —V.B.—M.K.Rock Pinot Noir (Fort
Mother Price: $18 on the Radian Vineyard. The
abv:(Fort
mouthfeel is
14.1% tea,
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truffle
Ross-Seaview). and 2012
peel andAn Wayfarer
juicy olivevibrancy.
estatetapenade Vineyard
blendFrom
consume of a12mix
Price:
the Pinot
$30of Noir
complex Dijon
nose,
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the flavors quite complicated, with black licorice, and the flavors evolve steadily against the backdrop
aras $40County). Derby abv:Ross-Seaview).abv:Wayfarer
13% Brooding 2012 in Mother Rock
dark cherry Pinot
and Noir Price:
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different clones,clones (37
(Fort
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86
e: 14.2%
2012 Derby Vineyard Rosé (Paso Price:
cinnamon-laced $65 tea, fennel bulb and underripe of an elegant structure: cranberry-laced tea, cola
94
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2020
fennel. for and
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swirling
integrated inCellar
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and with of
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Selection.
strawberry,
concentrated,
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the 100%Rock Pinot supreme Noir (Fort
sipping. Cellar Selection. —M.K. (Fort Ross-Seaview). abv: 14.3% An estate blend of 12Price: $38
ed by verve tegrated oak. Rosato
With di
a Sangiovese
savory and (Napa
powerful Valley).
profile, This
it and abv:wild 14.6%fennel. Wellruby integrated the Price: $115
h
begins has
Mourvèdre a forceful
is grip on the palate
Ross-Seaview). Brooding in dark cherry and
smooth and uncomplicated, accented
with by
abv: black
15.1% offers a fully balanced,
different clones, this dark
Price: $60 elegnat wine isand
expression of concentrated,
bristling in
dark-red Rosato has 90% Sangiovese byand 10%
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not much tea,punch
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earthyand has
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spice, forceful
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It provides offers a perfect
swirling
93
a fullyinbalanced, Babcock elegnat
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strawberry, expression
win-
Appellation’s of the
Edge Pinot
cherry Noir
94 94
—M.K. Zinfandel and a tiny pinch of residual
De Coelo sugar, com-
2012 Arbore Sacra Pinot Noir (So- Babcock 2012 (Sta. Rita Radical Pinot
Hills). Bryan Noir
Babcock’s (Sta.
three Rita
de-
0verve abv:clones 13.5%
(37tea,
tegrated and truffle
oak. 777),
With and
some juicy
a savory vibrancy.
fermented
Price: and
From a mix of
whole-clus-
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Of the four
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Coelo fennel.
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Well a Pinots.
perfect Start
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introduction
andshow here and
concentrated, to the win-
better than ever right
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much has aisclones
ter, this a structured,
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Thiselegnata preview
bottling Pinots.
expression
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Vineyard here
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this is a and
structured, raspberry wine flavor
from anda a finish
meticulously of herb.
statement delvebergamot,
deeper; wetthis sage wine and is pencil
both alead
preview comprise of andan-
farmed tea,coastal
truffle site. and Cellar Selection. —V.B. site. Itofprovides
more to acome. Editors’ Choice. to —V.B.
cra is the most earthy, savory and viscous. Grapes mas of charred cloves, wet slate, peppercorns and
juicy vibrancy. From acome
mixfrom of the
Dijon perfect introduction theenergetic
win- on the
na Vineyard —V.B. Calera clone, beautifully structured other
statement fascinating
of more
macerated nose
to come. from
raspberries. Bryan
Lively and Babcok’s twist
e:s $20 14.6%farmed
abv: clones (37 and coastal777), site. some Cellar Selection.
fermented Price:
and
—V.B.
$115
whole-clus-
shyly abv: ery’s
subtle. In this graceful 14.5%
wine,lineup
expect nu- of site-specific
palate, it bursts Pinots. Editors’
Price:
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Choice.
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and ripe
alley).
% This abv: abv:
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of
Price:
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spice
$18and abv:
blackberry,
on the
14.5%
with
Radian Vineyard. The mouthfeel is lush$90
Price: and
ter, this is a structured, wine from a meticulously delve deeper; this wine is both a preview of and
94 94 94 94
eeyard
- and 10% farmed Babcock 2012 Radical the flavors quite complicated, with black licorice,
coastal site. CellarPinot Selection.Noir (Sta.—V.B.Rita Windward
statement of more Vineyard
to come. 2008 Editors’ Estate Bottled
Choice. —V.B.
sugar,
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10% in 86
bergamot,
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wet
this
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Babcock
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and
Derby
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nonetheless
20122012Radical
berries,
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pencil Dark
lead
offers
DerbyPinot
bitter
and
berries,
comprise
reserved
Vineyard
rhubarb,
nearly
Noir
Price: $115
ruby
bitter
an-
aromas,
Rosé Rita
(Sta.
red in
rhubarb,
with
(Paso
color,
exciting,
just
Monople
abv: 14.5%
classic
cinnamon-laced
is
wine
drinking
Windward
Pinot
blackberries.
Monople
Noir
from
great
(Paso
Boasting
Pinot
an
tea,Robles).
Vineyard
Noir
fennel
appellation
right
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2008
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Price:
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WINEMAG.COM
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Bottled
2020
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| 33
this
an
for
nishcom- of herb. other bergamot,
fascinating nose wet fromsage and
Bryan
Babcock 2012 Radical Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita pencil
Babcok’s lead comprise
twist an- ticularly exciting,
known for classic
this grape.wine
Windward Vineyard 2008 Estate Bottled from
Sour an
cherries, appellation
citrus not par-
BUYINGGUIDE
GGUIDE cranberries, with a tart citrusy twist that’s a wake-
up call to the mouth. —M.K. 93 J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Freestone Hill
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). 92 De Coelo 2012 Domaine de Clarck Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). From a barrel selection
abv: 14.9% Price: $60 Tight at first, this elegant Pinot from cooler climes of the Quintus block, planted to the 828 clone of
is velvety on the palate with a back note of juicy Pinot Noir, this wine offers a bigger mouthfeel and
93 Big Basin 2012 Woodruff Family Vineyard blueberry fruit that maintains an edge of acidity heartier vinous experience, awash in darker cherry
93 92
Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). From and tension. Earthy black tea wraps the fruit in a fruit and more substantial tannin. Floral in rose and
rt citrusy twist that’s a wake-
35-year-old dry farmed wines (the oldest in Cor-
J savory
Vineyards & Winery 2012 Freestone Hill
core of intrigue and desire. —V.B.
De Coelo 2012 Domain
violet on the nose, those floral highlights return on
—M.K. ralitos) and 30% whole cluster/wild yeast fermen- Vineyard
abv: 14.5% Pinot Noir (RussianPrice: River$75 Valley).the palate, giving the wine a(Sonomanice tension andCoast).
bal- From
tation comes aromas of pine pitch and blackberry ance. —V.B.
Price: $60 Tight at first, Jthis elegant Pinot from cooler climes of the Quintus block, planted
jelly. The flavors are driven by sagebrush against a
backdrop of deep purple fruit, with distinctive notes 93 Vineyards & Winery 2012 Nicole’s Vineyard
is velvety on the palate with a back note of juicy
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Nicole’s is
abv: 14.5% Price: $100
Pinot Noir, this wine offers a b
of juniper and eucalyptus powering the flavors from
12 Woodruff
abv: 14%
Family
front to back. —M.K.
anta Cruz Mountains). From
Vineyard blueberry
Price:and
$44 tension.
a consistent stunner, upholding its reputation just
fruit
Earthy
rich, robust
that maintains
cherryblack tea
and black
an
wraps
raspberry
edge
fine with this vintage, a vibrant and spicy take on
the
that’s
of
both
92
acidity
fruit indark
De Coelo 2012 Terra Neuma Pinot Noir (So-
heartier vinous experience, aw
noma Coast). Intense and feral in brooding
a cherry, this Terra
fruitNeuma
andfrommore substantial
the extreme So- tann
juicy and smooth. The finish wraps up nicely with a noma Coast vineyard known as De Coelo is owned
med wines (the oldest in Cor- savory core of intrigue and desire. —V.B. violet on the nose, those floral
93 De Coelo 2012 Quintus Pinot Noir (Sonoma
ole cluster/wild yeast fermen-
Coast). Voluptuous in wild abv: 14.5%
strawberry,
cranberry and tart cherry, Quintus is light and sug-
take on dark chocolate and mint. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $65
and tended to by the Benziger family, who pull out
Price: $75
all the stops the
with its palate, givingof the
annual collection
from the site. Earthy, this one is also silky, subdued
Pinotswine a n
of pinegestively
pitchchalky,
and balanced
blackberry ance. —V.B.
in velvety tannins and a
93 Wayfarer 2012 Paige’s Ridge Pinot Noir (Fort and quite elegant. —V.B.
driven by sagebrush
backbone
ple fruit,abv:
with14.5%
against
of structure. Dancing ain the background
is a taste of black tea and dark, fragrant earth. —V.B.
distinctive notes 93
Price: $75
J Vineyards & Winery
Ross-Seaview). From one2012
block Nicole’s
of the estateVineyard
vineyard planted exclusively to Dijon clone 667,
Pinot
abv: 14.5% abv: 14.5%
Noir (Russian River Valley). Nicole’s is De Loach 2012 OFS Pinot Noir (Russian River
Paige’s is deep and dark in color, intense in oak and
92
Price: $75
ptus powering the flavors from
93
page 5.
Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Fox Den Vineyard Pi-
not Noir (Green Valley). For full review see
Price: $44
a consistent stunner,
rich, robust
earthiness, almost aupholding its reputation
quarter of it undergoing
cluster fermentation. As intense on the palate as
fine withit this vintage, a vibrant and spicy take on
is darkly hued, it offers brambly blackberry and
cherry
dark cherry anda core
around black raspberry
of wild
whole
Tahitian vanillathat’s both
92
just Valley). FantasticallyDe Coelo
bright acidity2012
this wine, the winery’s “finest selection,” which is
memorable for its crisp black cherry and strawberry
dark cherry,
core of fruit. Voluptuous and silky onthis
definesTerra Ne
noma Coast). Intense a
the Terra
palate, itNeuma
abv: 13.5% Price: $58 and cinnamon-cardamom spice. —V.B. carries a hint of Asian spice throughout, the slight-
juicy andabv: smooth.
14.6%
The finish wraps up nicely withestataste of wild vanilla
Price: $125
nomawrapping
Coastthings vineyard
up on the
known a
93
2 Quintus Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Dutton-Goldfield 2012 McDougall
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review
ptuous seeinpagewild5.
strawberry,
take on dark chocolate and mint. —V.B.
Vineyard
abv: 14.5% 92 Black Ridge 2010 Estate Grown Pinot Noir
(Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s a dynamic
Price:
finish.
$65
—V.B.
abv: 14.5%
and tended to by the Benziger
all the stops with Price: $45
its annual
erry, Quintus
abv: 14.1%is light and sug- Price: $58 range of aromas on this wine, from dark blackber-
92 Flying Goat from the
Cellars site.
2011 Earthy,
Dierberg Vineyardthis one
93
ry fruit to sassafras, anise, eucalyptus, coffee and Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Norm Yost
nced in velvety tannins and a Wayfarer 2012 Paige’s Ridge Pinot Noir (Fort and quite elegant. —V.B.
93 Flying Goat Cellars 2011 Rancho Santa Rosa
e. Dancing in the background
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
maker Norm Yost racks up bundles of sagebrush,
Hills). Wine-
earthy loam. It’s rich with nicely chalky tannins on
Ross-Seaview). From one block of the estate
the palate, with flavors
tea and licorice. —M.K.
of cooked black cherry, black
produces another distinct wine, unleashing aromas
of roasted abv:
lavender and14.5%
seared violets alongside
Mission figs and anise. The fresh and lively wine
and dark, fragrant earth. —V.B.
wild mint and all manner of fresh-cut chaparral on
vineyard abv: planted
14.4%
exclusively to Dijon clone 667,
Price: $44 is extremely soft on the palate with elderberry and
the nose of this stellarPrice: $75which comes from
bottling,
a vineyard on one of California’s longest-held ran-
chos. The herbally driven palate mixes black and
eld 2012 Fox Den Vineyard Pi-
green olives with fresh raspberry juice and
Paige’s is deep and dark in color, intense in oak and
black
92
earthiness, almost
Daou
Daou 2012 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Though
a quarter of it undergoing whole
more focused on Bordeaux varieties, the
cluster fermentation. As intense on the palate as
brothers produce a fantastic Pinot Noir to
92
other deeply purple fruit. It also De Loach
possesses2012
skin tartness that wipes the finish clean. —M.K.
abv: 13.2%
this wine, the winery’s “finest
a plum-OFS Pin
Valley). Fantastically
Price: $46
b
pepper. —M.K.
en Valley). For
abv: 13.8%
full review see it
Price: $48
is darkly
dark cherry
chew on, with rich aromas of cherry pie set in a
hued, it offers brambly blackberry
anise-flecked crust. The wine is soft and plush once
sipped,around
with black a cherries,
core ofrootwild beer Tahitian
and strong vanilla
92
and Fort Ross Vineyard 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir
memorable for its crisp black c
(Fort Ross-Seaview). Dark purple in color,
core
this is a fully realized ofNoir,
Pinot fruit.agedVoluptuous
longer in bot- and s
93 Fog Crest 2012 Laguna West Pinot Noir (Rus-
Price: $58
sian River Valley). Strong, earthy and herbal,
this dances in wild strawberry and dark cherry abv: 14.6%
black licorice elements. —M.K.
and cinnamon-cardamom
abv: 14.4%
spice. —V.B. Price: $65
Price: $125
tle before release, to great effect. Spicy and earthy,
the wine an
carries a hint of Asian spice th
it offers a density that’s not overwhelming but gives
est
ideal taste ofofwild
combination vanilla
style and sub- wrapp
that’s concentrated in texturally pleasing layers
eld 2012leading
McDougall Vineyard
up to a potent, spicy finish. —V.B. 92 Davies 2012 Londer Vineyards Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). Davies has been mak-
stance, complex in cherry and vanilla. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
finish. —V.B. Price: $65
onoma Coast).
abv: 14.5% For full review
93 Fort Ross 2012 Fort Ross Vineyard Sea Slopes
92
Price: $39 Black
ing Pinot Ridge 2010
Noir since 2009.Estate Grown
Firm, lively acidity and
Cruz Mountains). There’s a dynamic JPinot
generous tannins in this complex wine lift up the
(Santa
distinctive cherry and clove flavors. A sharp balance
Pinot Noir
92
abv: 14.5%
Vineyards & Winery 2012 Bow Tie Vineyard
Noir (Russian River Valley). Black Tie is
Price:
Pinot Noir (Fort $58
Ross-Seaview).
acidity, giving it a spicy mouthfeel around firmly
ellars 2011 Rancho
present tannins.Santa
Full-bodiedRosa midpalate, the wine
range of means
Pleasantly
pungent in ripe damson plum, this Pinot has lovely
ry fruit to
aromas
sassafras,
abv: 14%
on flavors
the fruit this andwine,
anise,
from dark
fine structure
other out for a harmonious whole. —J.G.
eucalyptus,
earthy loam. It’s rich with nicely chalky tannins on
blackber-
fill each
coffee
Price: $55
and 92
planted to a variety of clones,
designated wines produces
Flying
including
another
from the site. Floral
Goat
Swan Cellars
Rochioli. It is one of the winery’s newest vineyard
Pinot Noir
and
(Santa
sources and this vintage is the first of its vineyard-
distinct
in anise, plum
20
Mari
win
mellows through to the finish, ending in juicy fruit
t Noir (Sta.
abv:
Rita Hills). Wine-
and earth. —V.B.
cks up bundles of sagebrush,
13.8% Price: $42
92
the palate, with
tea and licorice. —M.K.
Vineyard
Davies 2012 Spring Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir
flavors of cooked black cherry, black
(Sonoma Coast). Feral and wild, Spring Hill
lies in the Petaluma Gap where it is regu-
and raspberry, it is medium-bodied with a back-
seasonings of
of roasted lavender and sear
ground of oak that picks up on the finish, offering
Mission
caramel figs and
and chocolate. —V.B. anise. The f
abv: 14.5%
nner of fresh-cut chaparral on abv: 14.4% larly enveloped in fog and cooling coastal winds.
Price: $44 is extremely soft Price: on the$75
palate
93
ar bottling, which
Foxen 2012 John Sebastiano Vinyard Pinot
Noir (Sta.comes
Rita Hills).from
For full review see page
The result here is a soft, slightly stemmy, earthy
wine with balanced layers of cherry, raspberry and
92 J Vineyards other
& Winery deeply purple
2012 Strata fruit. It al
Pinot Noir
92
5. vanilla. —V.B. (Russian River Valley). Named for the soil
California’s
abv: 14%
longest-held ran- Price: $48
Daou
abv: 14%
2012 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Price: $55
Though skin tartness that wipes the fin
layers important to wine’s terroir, this Pinot is
riven palate mixes black and more focused on Bordeaux varieties, the sourced from a abv:of13.2%
variety sites and multiple clones,
sh raspberry juice and black Daou brothers produce a fantastic Pinot Noir to
34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2015
Price: $48
chew on, with rich aromas of cherry pie set in a
anise-flecked crust. The wine is soft and plush once
sipped, with black cherries, root beer and strong
92 Fort Ross Vineyard 201
(Fort Ross-Seaview). D
this is a fully realized Pinot No
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