Gen Z: Bravery, or Bullsh*t? - ZAK Agency

Page created by Bobby Gilbert
 
CONTINUE READING
Gen Z: Bravery, or Bullsh*t? - ZAK Agency
1

Gen Z: Bravery,
or Bullsh*t?
Gen Z: Bravery, or Bullsh*t? - ZAK Agency
3

We are ZAK.
The Next Gen creative agency.

From research to delivery, we create brands and
build campaigns for clients looking to the future.

What is SELFHOOD?
SELFHOOD is our global collective of Next-Gen
social natives, made up of progressive, creative
polymaths who are self-aware, socially conscious
and culturally savvy. We work with members of
SELFHOOD in real-time to gather insights and spot
trends in how they think and behave.
Gen Z: Bravery, or Bullsh*t? - ZAK Agency
5

01   Introduction                  06

02   The Pillars                   12

03   CHAPTER 1:                    16
     Transparency

04   CHAPTER 2:                    22
     Speaking out and showing up

05   CHAPTER 3:                    32
     Category revolutionaries

06   CHAPTER 4:                    40
     Changing business models

07   CHAPTER 5:                    48
     Purpose over profit

08   Conclusion                    60

09   SELFHOOD members              62
Gen Z: Bravery, or Bullsh*t? - ZAK Agency
7

Introduction
Bravery is marketing jargon’s      There’s a basis for bravery.
holy grail. But what does it       Evolutionary speaking, order
really mean? The reality is        and routine keep us alive.
much of what adland deems          That’s why habits feel so
to be brave never escapes the      comfortable. More unexpectedly,
echo chamber. The problem          our response to surprise also     Simply put, it’s uncertainty.     We’ve evolved with a sense of
is that our understanding of       formed an important part          We have a primal reaction         self-preservation, but risk taking
bravery is deceptively broad.      of our evolutionary survival.     when confronted with new          has evolutionary roots. It’s an
Enemy of conformity, purveyor      Complacency kills.                ideas. Our subconscious will      in-built instinct that weakens as
of truth - brave is an attitude,                                     overwhelmingly choose known       we grow older, creating a chasm
but it’s measured by how you       So why are we so reluctant        odds over uncertainty, known      of behaviour between old and
behave.                            to be brave?                      as the Ellsberg Paradox. It’s     young, that’s mirrored in how
                                                                     a behaviour so ingrained it's     new and established brands
Now, a new generation are                                            become part of our language.      behave too.
calling bullshit on brands that                                      “Better the devil you know than
promise and don’t deliver.                                           the devil you don’t” was our
                                                                     ancestors' answer to ambiguity
                                                                     aversion.
Gen Z: Bravery, or Bullsh*t? - ZAK Agency
introduction                                                                                                                            9

                                                                      Risk-taking and the pursuit      We are more prone to trying
               Risk-taking and the pursuit of                         of novelty go hand in hand.      things out, exploring the
                                                                      As young people seek new         world, and taking risks
               novelty go hand in hand.                               experiences and higher levels    but there is a difficulty in
                                                                      of rewarding stimulation,        controlling our behaviours
                                                                      they’ll often take risks         fully since we do not yet
                                                                      without thinking about future    have the tools for doing it
                                                                      consequences. Novelty serves     appropriately.”
                                                                      an evolutionary purpose,
                              Our sense of risk is deeply
                                                                      but it gives us pleasure too,    So rather than seeing risk-
                              intertwined with our genetics
                                                                      inducing a dopamine release      taking as recklessness, we
                              and   social    environment,     but
                                                                      in the hippocampus. There’s a    need to understand it in
                              when we’re young it’s particularly
                                                                      biological reason new things     the context of an inbuilt
                              pronounced.      Heightened     risk-
                                                                      make us feel so good.            mechanism designed to give
                              taking during adolescence is
                                                                                                       us the skills of independence.
                              normative,     biologically   driven,
                                                                      In our study Death of the        We grow up and grow out of
                              and, to some extent, inevitable.
                                                                      Millennial, Dr. Ashok Jansari,   it.
                              Decision-making areas of the
                                                                      Lecturer in Cognitive
                              brain are composed of roughly
                                                                      Neuropsychology at Goldsmiths,   Young brands are like young
                              80% excitatory cells and 20%
                                                                      University London told us:       brains, brave by default. It’s
                              inhibitory cells. Whilst teenage
                                                                      “During this period, our brain   a means of survival. They’re
                              brains are forming, their inhibitory
                                                                      is wired for seeking pleasure    agile and malleable, shaping
                              cells take a back seat, leading
                                                                      but at the same time working     themselves at the speed of
                              to bold, brash (and sometimes
                                                                      out whether to advance that      culture because that’s the
                              bad) decision making.
                                                                      behaviour or not.                only way to stand out.
Gen Z: Bravery, or Bullsh*t? - ZAK Agency
introduction                                                                                                                                11

                                                                        until the 19th century. But
                                                                        today it’s the ultimate insult.
                                                                        Adolescents are hardwired
                                                                        to seek new things and take
                                                                        risks in pursuit of them.
                                                                        Neophilia is the norm. If
                                                                        brands want to target youth
                                                                        audiences, they need to
    Challenger brands stopped        But for a young audience that      mirror that behaviour.
    entering categories and          lives for the thrill, the brands
                                                                                                          Today bravery isn’t optional.
    started disrupting them. But     that stagnate, will alienate       Complacency is comfortable,
                                                                                                          It’s the price of entry and
    as young brains (and young       them. It’s a fact - 70% of the     but the brands that stay
                                                                                                          the key to survival. The
    brands) become older, they       1,000 under 30s we surveyed        stuck in their ways will fade
                                                                                                          biggest risk is not taking one.
    become risk-averse. We’re        about brand bravery stated         from our conscience. When a
                                                                                                          For Next-Gen consumers,
    blinded by what we could lose,   that brands need to innovate to    purchase no longer provides
                                                                                                          conformity is the only strategy
    instead of seeing what we        keep them interested. The word     that shot of dopamine, we’re
                                                                                                          guaranteed to fail.
    could gain.                      “boredom” wasn’t in popular use    onto the next.
Gen Z: Bravery, or Bullsh*t? - ZAK Agency
13

                                                                                   01 # TRANSPARENCY

                                                                                   Transparency (albeit a buzzword)
                                                                                   is evolving as expectations are

The Pillars
                                                                                   changing. Bland brand statements
                                                                                   are on their way out, and customer
                                                                                   loyalty has become entwined with
                                                                                   transparency. Now it’s getting radical.
     Brand bravery exists outside of stunts, and can be
                                                                                   There are brands that are baring
     reproduced at scale and sustained over time. It’s
                                                                                   all to the world, fostering a culture
     innovation over provocation. So how can brands
                                                                                   of trust inside and out. It’s a ballsy
     encourage systematic, brave creativity? The truth is,
                                                                                   move with long term benefits.
     there are multiple avenues from consumer to category
     where brands can employ bold disruptive thinking.

                                                                                   02 # SPEAKING OUT AND SHOW UP
                                                                                   There are many “brave” campaigns
                                                                                   that haven’t impacted culture
                                                                                   outside of adland. But there are
                                                                                   companies that have used their
01              02               03                04                05            platforms to challenge convention.
TRANSPARENCY    SPEAKING OUT     CATEGORY          CHANGING          PURPOSE
                AND SHOWING UP   REVOLUTIONARIES   BUSINESS MODELS   OVER PROFIT   Brands have a very real power to
                                                                                   shift conversations, however small,
                                                                                   as long as the dialogue feels natural.
                                                                                   Speaking out is half the battle,
                                                                                   showing up is where it matters.
Gen Z: Bravery, or Bullsh*t? - ZAK Agency
THE PILLARS                                                                                                               15

              03 # CATEGORY REVOLUTIONARIES

              There are real risks in rocking the boat
              when it comes to certain categories.
              You risk alienating swathes of
              consumers. Or can be simply met with
              plain indifference. But revolutionising
              stagnant categories with fresh
              thinking has been a defining feature of
              the challenger brand era. Today brands
              big and small are giving a new lease of
              life to categories stifled by convention.

              04 # CHANGING BUSINESS MODELS

              The direct to consumer model has
              gone mainstream. But for the first
              generation of D2C brands it was a risky
                                                          05 # PURPOSE OVER PROFIT
              move that paid off. Now the landscape
              is almost unrecognizable from even          Putting purpose before profit is high-risk, high-impact. Some
              a decade ago and many of those              brands are content with talking about purpose and continuing
              businesses are looking less viable than     with their standard practice. But others are re-evaluating
              they once were. As once innovative          their role in the market to put values first. Being purpose-
              business models grow tired, brands are      led instead of purely profit-motivated remains a hard sell in
              shaking up the rubric once more.            today’s world, but brands are going beyond profit and looking
                                                          to positively impact society.
Gen Z: Bravery, or Bullsh*t? - ZAK Agency
17

CHAPTER 1:
Transparency

               The internet has made it easier than ever
               for consumers to “expose” companies by
               digging up unfavourable information. It
               can feel like we’re living in an era of non-
               stop scrutiny. Practising transparency is a
               way for brands to defend themselves and
               differentiate from competitors, by laying
               it all bare.

               SELFHOOD member Hauk explained that
               “a lot of my friends have this kind of
               cynical overview [of companies]”. “There
               was a point like in the mid 2000s when all
               of this stuff about child labour came out
               [...], clothing stores were outsourcing to
               Asia and it just woke up a lot of people
               to realise “Ohh shit, we don't know
               what's going on with most companies”.
               Consumers want the truth behind where
               their products are coming from.
Gen Z: Bravery, or Bullsh*t? - ZAK Agency
CHAPTER 1: (RADICAL) TRANSPARENCY                                                                 19

                                                       30% of under 30s said
                                                       complete transparency
                                                       was how they defined
   NEW: BUFFER                                         brand bravery.

                                                                  But the move worked in
                                                                  their favour. By letting the
                                                                  world in, Buffer reinforced
                                                                  their brand’s values of being
                                                                  honest, straightforward and
                                                                  helpful.

                                                                  It helped the company adapt
                                                                  and learn, reacting in real
                                                                  time to suggestions from
                                                                  its audience and experts in
                                                                  the wider world. Bottom line,
                                                                  transparency from start-
                                                                  ups benefits others in the
                                                                  business. It promotes a sense
                                                                  of community from the brand
                                                                  that for conscientious young
   In 2013, social media management start-up                      audiences, is an attractive
   Buffer burst into the scene with a radical                     quality to have. For 30%
   move, by making transparency one of their                      of under 30s we surveyed,
   core company values. By sharing information                    complete transparency was
   about their sales numbers, salaries and revenue                how they defined
   use as well as their diversity quota, Buffer laid              brand bravery.
   themselves open to public scrutiny. Scary? Yes.
CHAPTER 1: (RADICAL) TRANSPARENCY                                                                                            21

                                                           and urging competitors to
                                                           do better. Patagonia may

   OLD: PANTAGONIA                                         be more expensive than
                                                           other high street names but
   Transparency’s poster brand is, of course, Patagonia.   their transparency and high
   Although they may be considered an established          quality goods are what helps
   brand, they don’t shy away from changing the old        maintain its strong client base.
   rhetoric. They’re open about where their products       SELFHOOD collective member
   come from, detailing everything from raw materials      Hauk said that: “Clothing in
   to the factories and workers.                           general that's made to last
                                                           a long time gets my respect.
                                                                                              them, and won’t take
   The insight gives consumer’s confidence in what         From a business standpoint
                                                                                              brands at their word. Their
   they’re buying, alleviating fears about ethics,         fast fashion is way more
                                                                                              trust is earnt, not bought.
   and justifying the price point. It’s an empowering      lucrative, as it's way more
                                                                                              With access to everything
   move for consumers, who increasingly want to            profitable to make clothes
                                                                                              at their fingertips, a lack
   align their values to their purchase habits. Amidst     from bad fabric so that you
                                                                                              of transparency feels like
   a green-washed landscape Patagonia is putting           buy a replacement from the
                                                                                              something to hide. Tom from
   its cards on the table, holding itself accountable      same brand. But making quality
                                                                                              our SELFHOOD collective told
                                                           stuff is brave because they
                                                                                              us: “I think this generation
                                                           don't necessarily get the same
                                                                                              of youth is more aware of
                                                           profit.”
                                                                                              the damage caused by a lack
                                                                                              of transparency.” Today, Gen
                                                           For brands not founded on
                                                                                              Z make up 40% of global
                                                           transparency, it’s a bold step
                                                                                              consumers. To keep up,
                                                           to take, but one that Next-Gen
                                                                                              brands need to embrace a
                                                           audiences won’t compromise
                                                                                              new way of working, one that
                                                           on for long. They’re deeply
                                                                                              exposes the good, bad and
                                                           skeptical of the world around
                                                                                              the ugly.
23

CHAPTER 2:
Speaking out
and showing up
                 Brands waving a flag of solidarity for
                 a week, month or just the length of a
                 press release is often labelled “brave.”
                 In reality it should look like brands
                 using their power to speak out, in a
                 way that risks alienating some for
                 the good of others. Social media has
                 amplified underrepresented voices
                 and issues, leading to a new cultural
                 landscape where consumers expect
                 more open, nuanced conversations.
                 More than that, they expect action.

                 Hauk called out Pepsi; “I think there's
                 a fine line between breaking social
                 norms and performative activism like
                 the [infamous] Kendall Jenner Pepsi
                 ad”. The importance of promoting
                 a tonally correct message breaks
                 through the overwhelming amount of
                 advertising we are bombarded with on
                 a daily basis.
CHAPTER 2: SPEAKING OUT AND SHOWING UP                                                                 25

         “I think more and more young people
         recognise a brave and impactful ad when
         they see one because we've been through
         so much performative stuff.” Taking a real
         risk is easily distinguishable from brands
         churning out the same message, wrapped in
         a different package.
                                                                  OLD: BODYFORM
                                                                  Today, the blueprint example
                                                                  is Bodyform. As an old brand
                                                                  in a saturated category, they
                                                                  were rapidly losing share. But
                                         “It's quite clear when   without the budget of their major
                                         a brand is jumping on    competitors, Bodyform needed to
                                         a bandwagon"             make a splash on a shoestring. To
                                                                  do so, they had to craft a purpose
                                                                  that would directly benefit
                                                                  women and would specifically
                                                                  address period-care. They’d found
                                                                  that competitors in the beauty
                                                                  category rallied around concepts
                                                                  like “confidence” rather than
                                                                  talking about topics frankly.

         SELFHOOD member Laura agreed: “It's
         quite clear when a brand is jumping on
         a bandwagon rather than actually being
         brave.”
27

                                  sharply Bodyform identified
Bodyform’s research found
                                  it’s consumers' pain points,
that there was widespread
                                  and used its relevance to
lack of confidence amongst
                                  confront a cultural taboo,
women, but that it was caused
                                  differentiating the brand
by societal stigmas around
                                  amongst a bland category
female bodies that were being
                                  as an ally to women.
perpetuated by the category
itself.

Their resulting campaign
#BloodNormal was the first
advert to show blood instead
of blue liquid, confronting the
issue head on. They simply
worked to address the insight
                                  Frances from our SELFHOOD
that hiding a period was an
                                  collective commented:
almost universal experience for
                                  “Young people are expecting
women (their research found
                                  a lot more from big
90% had done so) by making
                                  corporates to do better and
blood the most prominent
                                  be better to change the way
feature in the campaign.
                                  we’re looking at the world.”
                                  It’s the kind of standard Gen
The advert’s ban by Clearcast
                                  Z will increasingly expect
only added to its power,
                                  brands to set.
reminding the world that a
bodily function was seen as a
public disgrace. The strength
of the campaign lay in how
CHAPTER 2: SPEAKING OUT AND SHOWING UP                                                                                                   29

  NEW: BILLIE
  Since #BloodNormal, more and more brands are breaking with
  cultural convention, such as disruptive razor brand Billie. In
  2018 their campaign ‘Project Body Hair’ was the first ever razor
                                                                     The campaign was celebrated
  advert to show female body hair, controversially depicting a
                                                                     as a fearless statement, but
  product doing exactly what it’s supposed to do. The next year
                                                                     received its share of backlash.
  this challenger brand went braver and bolder with a campaign
                                                                     Men threatened to boycott
  normalizing pubic hair entitled Red, White and Do You , for the
                                                                     the brand (despite not being
  4th of July.
                                                                     the target audience) with
                                                                     some even declaring the ad        Crucially, the move was
                                                                     to be un-American. Even           sharply attuned to youth
                                                                     Olympian Lolo Jones implied       culture. Billie recognised Gen
                                                                     her disapproval with a simple,    Z have a complex relationship
                                                                     "What in the world." Whilst       with identity, so they sought
                                                                     body hair on cisgender men        to eradicate the limitations of
                                                                     is celebrated, body hair on       labels. As Tom put it: “I think
                                                                     cis and trans women is seen       the support brands will gain
                                                                     as unattrative and unhygenic.     from being outspoken and
                                                                                                       from challenging social norms
                                                                                                       will more than outweigh the
                                                                                                       negative impacts of ignorant
                                                                                                       people who will then choose
                                                                                                       to boycott it.”
CHAPTER 2: SPEAKING OUT AND SHOWING UP                                                                                                     31

  Traditionally, the beauty                                               Tom continued: “I think it's      Remember, both Bodyform
  category talks about body                                               brave to take that risk and       and Billie’s bold campaigns
  hair as a shameful problem                                              challenge people to be better     weren’t a shot in the dark,
  to be fixed with the product                                            because people don't wanna        they were built and shaped
  they’re trying to sell. Billie’s                                        listen...I struggle with that a   on audience insight and deep
  advert didn’t show a razor,                                             lot, I try to be outspoken and    cultural understanding. For
  reframing the conversation to                                           you get backlash.” It’s why       them, the risk of alienating
  show shaving as a choice, not                                           insta-activism has reached        a minority was worth how
  an expectation.                                                         such heights, re-posting          meaningful the work was for
                                                                          credited voices gives young       the ones that mattered.

       “re-posting credited                                               people a buffer of safety.

       voices gives young                                                 Billie takes the burden of

       people a buffer of                                                 vocalization away from Gen
                                                                          Z, instead letting them show
       safety."
                                                                          support for the brand, as a
                                                                          vote for the cause.
                                         To undo deep-rooted
                                         societal shame and stigma,
                                                                          42% of under 30’s we
                                         you need to make people
                                                                          surveyed stated that bravery
                                         uncomfortable - a risk many
                                                                          is when brands break social
                                         brands aren’t willing to take.
                                                                          conventions. For youth
                                         But remember, it’s a risk
                                                                          audiences beta-testing their
                                         young people shouldn’t have
                                                                          identities and pushing back
                                         to shoulder alone. Gen Z
                                                                          against traditional norms,
                                         are passionate about social
                                                                          brands that do the work for
                                         issues, but can fear the
                                                                          them are the ones that earn
                                         backlash of speaking out
                                                                          their respect.
                                         alone, and so look for others
                                         to do the talking.
33

CHAPTER 3:
Category
revolutionaries

                  In a market full of nascent
                  competitors, heritage brands often
                  fall to the wayside. It’s hard not to
                  look lacklustre amongst a sea of shiny
                  new things. It's a brave (but often
                  necessary) move for established
                  brands to change tack, and reevaluate
                  who they’re talking to. Big brands are
                  often comfortable, and that can mean
                  losing touch of the world around them.
                  Sometimes it means going back to
                  square one to re-engage the old and
                  lure in the new.
CHAPTER 3: CATEGORY REVOLUTIONAIRIES                                                 35

   NEW: LEON
                                                    With the aim to make healthy
                                                    food accessible to everyone,
                                                    they set up venues across
                                                    the UK that challenged the
                                                    idea fast food couldn’t be
                                                    good for you.

                                                    Now healthy eating done
                                                    quickly is a tried and tested
                                                    model on the market. But
                                                    part of Leon’s success lies in
                                                    how it uses audience insight
                                                    to adapt. The business was
                                                    one of the first mainstream
                                                    chains to recognise the
                                                    advent of veganism. Tapping
                                                    into trends set by young
   When LEON launched, it flipped the fast food     people helped them future-
   market on it’s head. LEON’s founders saw a       proof their offering. Today,
   gap in the market for healthy food that was      meat alternative products
   convenient and affordable, revolutionising the   now make up almost 60%
   category in the process. They’d found young      of total sales across LEON’s
   people’s obesity rates and spend on takeaway     restaurants, with vegan
   was rising, implying a disconnect with food.     burgers even outselling the
                                                    regular ones.
CHAPTER 3: CATEGORY REVOLUTIONAIRIES                 37

   LEON’s commitment to innovation and
   consumer insight has evolved beyond
   veganism. In 2018 Leon made radical
   changes to its business model in a bid to
   be more sustainable.

                    “Bravery is doing things
                    for ethical and environmental
                    reasons even if it doesn't
                    make the best business sense."
   All of it's outlets ousted plastic from all
   its restaurants, drastically reduced the
   amount of red meat and moved away
   from fossil fuels. All the eligible stores
   now run on solar or wind power, resulting
   in a 30% increase in bills. As Laura put
   it: “Today it’s difficult to say how much
   is bravery and how much is just PR...
   Bravery is doing things for ethical and
   environmental reasons even if it doesn't
   make the best business sense.” Extra
   financial pressure at a time when rivals
   were collapsing showed the brands
   commitment to its principles. With young
   people spending more money on food
   than any other age group, it’s shrewd to
   align with their values.
CHAPTER 3: CATEGORY REVOLUTIONAIRIES                                                                                          39

                                                          still casting the product as
                                                          distinctly masculine, allowing

   OLD: OLD SPICE                                         the brand to become alluring
                                                          to all in a unisex way. It worked
   Old Spice, formerly affiliated with Grandpa, needed    too, Old Spice body wash sales
   to shake its musty reputation. They had to             increased 107%, turning the
   rejuvenate a low involvement category and reimagine    once dated brand into the
   the brand for a new generation. P&G’s research had     number one body wash for
   revealed that women were their key consumers,          men.
   purchasing as much as 70% of the shower gels for
   men in their households, yet body-wash was still       Using self-deprecating
                                                                                              surveyed believe bravery is
   seen by some men as unmanly. Armed with a new          machismo, Old Spice pioneered
                                                                                              when a brand does something
   audience, they pivoted.                                the male grooming category,
                                                                                              new. So it’s not enough
                                                          and helped dismantle the
                                                                                              for brands to rehash the
   It was a move that showed an understanding of          stigma associated with it. As
                                                                                              same old agenda. But the
   how complex the consumer journey really is. With       recent cultural shifts nudge us
                                                                                              key to a refresh is often
   the tagline ‘The Man Your Man Could Smell Like’,       towards a new, gender-neutral
                                                                                              closer than you’d think.
   they spoke directly to women (“Hello Ladies”) whilst   world of personal care, Old
                                                                                              Too often we’re tripped up
                                                          Spice may have been ahead of
                                                                                              by our own assumptions.
                                                          the curve. It’s proof that with
                                                                                              Innovation can be unlocked
                                                          the right insight brands can
                                                                                              with fresh perspective. Hauk
                                                          change public perception and
                                                                                              commented: “Brands need to
                                                          win big.
                                                                                              keep up with the culture. If
                                                                                              you’re going to target young
                                                          Gen Z are easily blinded by
                                                                                              people...it shouldn't be like
                                                          shiny new things. But beyond
                                                                                              a 45 year old trying to make
                                                          that, novelty holds a certain
                                                                                              a TikTok...you need to have
                                                          weight. 30% of under 30’s we
                                                                                              young people in your brand.”
41

CHAPTER 4:
Changing business
models

                    The pandemic has forced brands
                    to shake things up. Demand for
                    subscription services and ‘do it at
                    home’ kits, has seen businesses
                    pivoting their MO. How else do you
                    stay relevant and afloat as the
                    world shut down around you? Whilst
                    intimidating, it’s also nothing new.
                    Brands re-thinking and re-shaping
                    business models to adapt and survive
                    is becoming a new normal.
CHAPTER 4: CHANGING BUSINESS MODELS                                                                                                 43

  NEW: HARRY'S
  Some of the first (and best known) pioneers of the direct to
  customer model was Harry’s. Back in 2012, founders Jeff Raider
  and Andy Katz-Mayfield were fed up with the cost and quality
  of razors on offer so set up a customisable membership service
  for consumers to receive affordable and high quality shaving
  equipment and men's personal care products straight to their
  front door.

                                                                   Whilst Dollar Shave Club,         one of the few places in the
                                                                   Harry’s main competitor,          world that had mastered a
                                                                   entered a price war with the      specific type of technique
                                                                   bigger brands such as Gillette,   for unparalleled sharpness
                                                                   Harry’s were more interested      and strength. The risk paid
                                                                   in the quality of the razors      off. Laura commented:
                                                                   they could sell (still at an      “Fundamentally changing your
                                                                   affordable price). To achieve     business model and actually
                                                                   this, they took a $100 million    showing real radical change,
                                                                   gamble and purchased a            that’s what I think makes
                                                                   remote 100-year-old German        headlines.”
                                                                   factory known for being
CHAPTER 4: CHANGING BUSINESS MODELS                                                  45

  NEW: NESTLE
                                                    It was a bold move. The model
                                                    depended on consumers taking
                                                    a gamble, buying an expensive
                                                    machine that required premium
                                                    capsules. And further still,
                                                    the patent for these capsules
                                                    would only last a limited time.
                                                    It was a risk. But 48% of
                                                    under 30s we surveyed stated
                                                    that bravery is when a brand
                                                    takes risks. First movers have
                                                    advantages.

                                                    It’s estimated that today 14bn
                                                    Nespresso capsules are sold
  Before the launch of the Nespresso coffee         every year. More than 400
  pod machine, people had two options:              Nespressos are drunk every
  granulated instant coffee or prepared ground      second. Not only did it bring
  coffee that took an age to make in cafetiere      the growing coffee culture into
  or stove-top machines. Nestlé revolutionised      the home, it allowed people to
  the coffee market. They created technology        feel part of a club, even the
  that allowed the user to have fresh, high         coloured pods are culturally
  quality coffee in a matter of seconds, all from   ubiquitous.
  the comfort of their kitchen.
CHAPTER 4: CHANGING BUSINESS MODELS   47

  Going back to the drawing board
  is an arduous task. But as the
  consumer landscape continues
  to evolve, it’s becoming
  increasingly necessary. Frances
  argued: “The brands that are
  kind of being forgotten are the
  ones that aren't really keeping
  up.” Experimenting with agile
  new business models can be
  hugely profitable for big brands
  that have lost their way, or
  start-ups trying to break in,
  and can grab youth audience’s
  attention amidst a cluttered
  market.
49

CHAPTER 5:
Purpose over profit
                      When it comes to making a purposeful
                      impact on the world, it can seem
                      like consumers are setting harsher
                      standards for brands than they are
                      themselves. Understandably. Even
                      discounting years of environmental
                      damage or unethical practices, over
                      the years brands have created the
                      behaviours that many conscientious
                      citizens are trying to change.

                      Becoming more selective with their
                      shopping enables consumers to
                      alleviate some of that guilt. A 2019
                      study found that 76% of consumers
                      say supporting companies that are
                      addressing social and environmental
                      issues helps them feel they are doing
                      their part. But when CSR hit the
                      mainstream, the landscape became
                      flooded with do-good initiatives
                      that blurred into one. Cue consumer
                      skepticism.
CHAPTER 5: PURPOSE OVER PROFIT                                      51

   Laura commented: “For example
   H&M doing some dresses made
   out of recycled polyester
   doesn't lose them customers
   it only gains them customers,
   and so that's so obviously
   greenwashing.” Edelman’s 2019
   Trust Barometer report found
   that 56% of consumers believe
   too many brands are using
   societal issues as a marketing
   ploy. And are they wrong?

   Today the only behaviour that
   cuts through the BS, are the
   brands putting purpose before
   profit. The reality is, the two
   don’t peacefully co-exist. In
   fact, they can contradict one
   another. As Mark Ritson argues,
   when it comes to purpose,         There’s a reason so many
   two types of business exist:      brands struggle to make CSR
   “businesses that were founded     messaging feel authentic.
   from purpose and those that       But for 41% of under 30s we
   originated with a profit agenda   surveyed, bravery is putting
   and applied purpose to secure     purpose before profit.
   more of it.”
53

NEW: A-COLD-WALL
                                                    In 2019 A-COLD-WALL’s
                                                    A/W show was a chilling
                                                    indictment of the migrant
                                                    crisis. Cement dusted
                                                    teenagers walked flanked
                                                    by tanks of dark water
                                                    to the soundtracked
                                                    to a barking Rottweiler,
                                                    conceptual imagery that
                                                    hit uncomfortably close to
                                                    home. For Ross fashion is a
                                                    medium to elevate difficult
                                                    conversations.

                                                    The brand only supplies
                                                    vendors that offer the
                                                    space for an installation. In
Brixton-born Samuel Ross’ streetwear brand          Ross’s words: “By building an
A-COLD-WALL was founded as a material study         installation in Rotterdam I’m
on black life in Britain. Ross uses design to       bringing them black working
articulate ideas about clashing environments        class Britain...they can touch
and class systems. Today the brand exists as a      the ripped up sofa and
searing cultural commentary that blends politics,   feel the societal tension it
fashion and art, adapting in line with modern       represents.”
dialogue.
CHAPTER 5: PURPOSE OVER PROFIT                                      55

   Typically, the fashion
   industry views social issues
   as a seasonal conversation,
   commented on when in style.
   It’s a performatism Gen Z are
   especially attuned to. Frances
   argued: “You do sometimes
   feel that brands could be
   taking on social issues for
   capital gain. I did see that
   a lot with the feminist
   movement, where now every
   brand’s got some t-shirt
   about women and the future.”

                                    ACW’s swift and meaningful
                                    support in the wake of George
                                    Floyds murder only cemented
                                    the brand as a label paving
                                    the way for a anti-racist
                                    industry, redirecting the
                                    narrative around diversity in
                                    Britain.
CHAPTER 5: PURPOSE OVER PROFIT                                                                                               57

                                                           But when it comes to
                                                           purpose, it’s these kinds

   OLD: CVS                                                of inconsistencies that trip
                                                           brands up. In 2019 Gillette
   Purpose means making sacrifices that are                found itself in the firing line
   constructive, not cosmetic. That takes guts. CVS        for charging women 25% more
   putting consumer well-being first is a far cry from     for the same five bladed razor
   original. But sacrificing $2bn in annual revenue in     blade, fresh off the back of
   order to do so certainly got people’s attention. Back   their ad spotlighting toxic
   in 2014, the US drugstore chain made the decision       masculinity. Plus thanks to
   to stop selling cigarettes from its store, stating      CVS’s call, Reuters found
                                                                                             grabbing thinking, that’s
   stocking tobacco products conflicted with its role      that smokers who purchased
                                                                                             really just logic led. But it
   as a healthcare company. Sure, not a breakthrough       cigarettes exclusively at CVS
                                                                                             shows that every type of
   revelation.                                             stores were 38% less likely to
                                                                                             brand can act purposefully
                                                           buy tobacco after the store
                                                                                             with the right insight.
                                                           stopped stocking them.

                                                                                             It’s no secret youth
                                                           CVS putting purpose before
                                                                                             audiences are big on
                                                           profit was a massive victory
                                                                                             purpose. But it’s meaningless
                                                           for public health. But the
                                                                                             without authenticity. Laura
                                                           move also bolstered the public
                                                                                             told us: “It's like posting
                                                           image of the pharmacy chain
                                                                                             that black square on
                                                           and made CVS a more credible
                                                                                             Instagram did not make
                                                           partner for health care by
                                                                                             you think wow this brand
                                                           distancing them from smokers,
                                                                                             is radically challenging
                                                           some of the most expensive
                                                                                             racism.” For Gen Z, being
                                                           people to insure. It’s another
                                                                                             served substance-less CSR
                                                           example of bold, headline-
CHAPTER 5: PURPOSE OVER PROFIT           59

   campaigns is more demoralizing
   than brands doing nothing at all.
   In fact, 59% of under 30’s we
   surveyed believe brands should
   only take a stand on social issues
   if they're actively contributing to
   the cause. Purpose doesn’t have
   to mean sweeping sustainability
   statements.

   In fact for a generation raised in
   a hyper-commercialised world,
   content that feels cliched often
   falls flat. Purpose-led marketing
   nearly always centres the brand.
   But consumer-centricity and
   cultural sensitivity are actually
   more critical. For Gen Z, purpose
   doesn’t exist in isolation, it’s
   intersectional, non-cliched and
   brave.
61

Conclusion
So we’re clear. Bravery is a complex and intersectional
concept. It’s not stunts. It’s not provocation. It’s big and
it’s small, it’s internal and public. It’s taking a risk, but
doing your homework. It’s finding the meaning (however
mundane) you add to the world. It’s leading so young
people can follow. It’s honest conversations and difficult
dialogues. It’s mic drops that don’t always end in applause.

Bottom line, every bold, brave piece of thinking is a
chance for your brand to get a grip on the zeitgeist.
But putting youth voices first helps brands shape it.
Bravery doesn’t mean staring at a blank sheet of paper.
Sometimes the answer is under your nose. Fearless
campaigns are built on razor sharp insight and cultural
fluency. When you’ve done your research, even a leap of
faith feels safe.
63

SELFHOOD MEMBERS

HAUK

19 years old Hauk from Norway.
He is currently in music school, a highly
creative individual who loves creating
music, tik-toks and videos on YouTube.
He feels strongly about the lack of
transparency in brands and calls
out those for performative activism.        TOM
Dressed in his funky Patagonia fleece,
                                            Australian photo-journalist Tom
he told us how the Next Gen are
                                            produces work inspired by global
cynical of ads these days and the
                                            social causes to promote positive
importance of youth insight to hit this
                                            change and conversation. He feels
growing target market.
                                            brands have a lot of (negative)
                                            power and influence in this
                                            world of consumerism. Highly
                                            conscious of what he buys and
                                            consumes, Tom acknowledges
                                            the importance of not buying
                                            the cheap and easy, often non-
                                            reusable, product to help the
                                            world of the future.
SELFHOOD MEMBERS                                                                                        65

                   FRANCES

                   South-African based photographer,
                   Frances works, in part, on combating
                   period poverty and joins the
                   conversation of #BloodNormal and
                   feminism with her brilliant images of
                   ‘normal’ people. She spoke to us about
                   how brands impact the way we see and
                   treat the world and the necessity to
                   keep up with the conversation in order
                   to stay relevant and interesting to the
                   Next Gen.

                                                             LAURA

                                                             Laura is an eco & sustainability queen.
                                                             Stepping off the fast lane and living
                                                             seasonally, locally and ethically, Laura
                                                             has partaken in ‘quitting Fast Fashion’,
                                                             choosing instead to spark new life in
                                                             pre-loved clothes. She recognises the
                                                             veil big corporate brands pull over our
                                                             eyes in order to keep their profits up
                                                             and calls on brands to take the risk
                                                             and fundamentally change in order to
                                                             create a more sustainable future.
67
IMAGE CREDITS

Cover image           Pg.18                                   Pg.27                                Pg.46
Parker Gibbons        Buffer.com                              Bodyform                             Nestle
Unsplash              https://stories.buffer.com/what-is-     https://www.bodyform.co.uk/our-      https://nestle-nespresso.com/news/
                      remote-work-a-guide-for-finding-work-   world/bloodnormal/                   industry-leaders-nestl%C3%A9-and-
Pg.4                  from-home-jobs-and-building-remote-                                          JDE-Peet%E2%80%99s-join-forces-
Lillie Kate           teams-213599df0559                      Pg.28 - Pg.30 All                    to-launch-nationwide-coffee
Flickr                                                        Billie
                      Pg.19                                   Instagram                            Pg.47
Pg.6                  Letut Subiyanto                         @billie                              Neemias Seara
Lillie Kate           Pexels                                                                       Pexels
Flickr                                                        Pg. 32
                      Pg.19 Infographic                       Unknown                              Pg.48
Pg.7                  Buffer.com                              Unsplash                             Lillie Kate
Maximilian Barthel    https://stories.buffer.com/                                                  Flickr
Flickr                transparency-timeline-                  Pg.34 - Pg.37
                      5fbe0da5b79                             Leon                                 Pg.50
Pg.8                                                          Instagram                            Karsten Winegeart
Mykyta Nikiforov      Pg.20                                   @leonrestaurants                     Unsplash
Flickr                Patagonia
                      https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/         Pg.38                                Pg.51
Pg.10                 stories/giving-workers-more-of-a-       Old Spice                            Sinitta Leunen
Mykyta Nikiforov      voice/story-71866.html                  https://www.thedrum.com/creative-    Unsplash
Flickr commons                                                works/project/wiedenkennedy-old-
                      Pg.21                                   spice-never-let-friend-lose-his-     Pg.52
Pg.11 Top             Patagonia                               swagger                              A COLD WALL
Chloe Muoro           https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/                                              https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/
Flickr commons        stories/giving-workers-more-of-a-       Pg.39                                article/can-a-cold-wall-survive-the-
                      voice/story-71866.html                  Old Spice                            hype
Pg.11 (bottom)                                                https://www.adsoftheworld.com/
Lillie Kate           Pg.22                                   media/print/old_spice_matterhorn     Pg.53
Flickr                Lillie Kate                                                                  A COLD WALL
                      Flickr                                  Pg.40                                https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/
Pg.13 (Top)                                                   Unknown                              spring-summer-2019-menswear/a-
Lillie Kate Top                                               Pexels                               cold-wall/collection
Flickr                Pg.24 (Left)
                      Louie Natividad                         Pg.42 All                            Pg.54 All
Pg.13 (Bottom)        Pexels                                  Harry's                              A COLD WALL
Polina Tankilevitch                                           Instagram                            Instagram
Pexels                Pg.24 (Right)                           @harrys                              @acoldwall
                      Lillie Kate
Pg.14                 Flickr                                  Pg.43                                Pg.55
Polina Tankilevitch                                           Harry's                              A COLD WALL
Pexels                Pg.25                                   https://disruptionmag.               https://www.dazeddigital.com/
                      Frances Marais                          com/2016/06/30/andy-katz-            fashion/article/30454/1/a-cold-
Pg.15                 Instagram                               mayfield-harrys/                     wall-is-streetwear-inspired-by-
Maximilian Barthel    @Francesmarais                                                               working-class-britain
Flickr                                                        Pg.44 - 45
                      Pg.26                                   Nestle                               Pg.56
Pg.16                 Bodyform                                https://www.theguardian.com/         CVS
Mykyta Nikiforov      Instagram                               food/2020/jul/14/nespresso-coffee-   https://www.nytimes.
Flickr                @Bodyformuk                             capsule-pods-branding-clooney-       com/2014/09/03/business/cvs-
                                                              nestle-recycling-environment         stores-stop-selling-all-tobacco-
                                                                                                   products.html
69

Pg.57
CVS
https://img.washingtonpost.
com/rf/image_1024w/2010-2019/
WashingtonPost/2015/09/02/
Health-Environment-Science/
Images/CVS-Name_Change-0e67f.
jpg?uuid=FmT2UFGrEeWYEpLVlIpA-A

Pg.58
Sinitta Leunen
Unsplash

Pg.59
Mark Decile
Unsplash

Pg.61 (Top)
Alper Küçük
Unsplash

Pg.61 (Bottom left)
Maximilian Barthel
Flickr

Pg.61 (Bottom right)
Unknown
Pexels

Pg.62 All
Hauk
Instagram
@haukste

Pg.63 All
Tom
@ thomasjamesparrish

Pg.64 All
Frances
@francesmarais

Pg.65
Laura
Instagram
@f.laura_and_fauna

                                  Get in touch
                                  hello@zakagency.com
Get in touch
hello@zakagency.com
You can also read