Glamour and Gilt The old-world charm of The Ritz London still endures in the 21st century - Amazon S3

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Glamour and Gilt The old-world charm of The Ritz London still endures in the 21st century - Amazon S3
The destination                                                                                                                                         U.K.

              Glamour
                                                                                                                                   At afternoon tea, mellow
                                                                                                                                    strains of the piano and
                                                                                                                                harp mingle with the golden
                                                                                                                               splendour of The Palm Court
                                                                                                                            at The Ritz London. The spread
                                                                                                                             includes freshly baked scones

              and Gilt
                                                                                                                                and Cornish clotted cream.

          The old-world charm of The Ritz London
              still endures in the 21st century
                                By Prachi Joshi

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86   national Geographic Traveller INDIA | May 2019                                                         may 2019 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA   87
Glamour and Gilt The old-world charm of The Ritz London still endures in the 21st century - Amazon S3
B
 The destination                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             U.K.

                                                                                                                                                                       London­­­. To me, the hotel was the embodiment of the city
                                                                                                                                                                       itself—luxury, elegance, and a certain Englishness (its French
                                                                                                                                                                       chateau-style architecture notwithstanding). I remember
                                                                                                                                                                       taking time out from traipsing up and down Piccadilly to gawk
                                               uckingham Palace, Tower of London,                                                                                      at its signature blue awnings, and the white-gloved doormen
                                                                                                                                                                       in gold-striped penguin tuxedos. Since then, I have travelled

                                               Hyde Park, Westminster Abbey­­—                                                                                         to London several times but my chance to experience The Ritz
                                                                                                                                                                       only came last year.

                                               on my first trip to London nearly a                                                                                     Making of an icon
                                                                                                                                                                       In May 1906, Swiss hotelier César Ritz opened The Ritz

                                               decade ago, I played the quintessential                                                                                 London eight years after he established the equally glamorous
                                                                                                                                                                       Ritz Paris. The hotel was built in the neoclassical style to
                                                                                                                                                                       resemble a classy Parisian block of flats, over arcades inspired
                                               tourist, checking off many of the usual                                                                                 by those of Rue de Rivoli in Paris. It quickly became a symbol
                                                                                                                                                                       of London’s high society, gaining a reputation as one of the

                                               attractions. But my must-see list also
                                                                                                                                                                       most prestigious hotels in the world. In the past 100-plus years
                                                                                                                                                                       it has hosted royals, celebrities, and political figures (Winston
                                                                                                                                                                       Churchill, Dwight Eisenhower, and Charles de Gaulle met in
                                               had an unusual entry—The Ritz                                                                                           the hotel’s Marie Antoinette Suite to discuss WWII strategies).
                                                                                                                                                                       In 2002, it became the first (and to date the only) hotel to
                                                                                                                                                                       receive a Royal Warrant, which was awarded by His Royal
                                                                                                                                                                       Highness, the Prince of Wales. As a member of the Leading
     The Ritz London enjoys pride                                                                                                                                      Hotels of the World, The Ritz London’s impeccable pedigree
     of place in Piccadilly. It lies                                                                                                                                   and iconic status in the hospitality world is unparalleled.
     right next to Green Park,
     and a 10-minute walk from
     Buckingham Palace.
                                                                                                                                                                       Luxury redefined
                                                                                                                                                                       One step through its revolving doors and onto the plush
                                                                                                                                                                       (and appropriately faded) floral-patterned carpet, and you
                                                                                                                                                                       enter a different world. The Belle Époque interiors scream
                                                                                                                                                                       luxury with gold chandeliers, gold-bordered walls, a sweeping
                                                                                                                                                                       red-carpeted staircase flanked by a full-length wall mural
                                                                                                                                                                       depicting a French garden, and bronze sconces casting an
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           From scoring West End tickets to eclectic shopping suggestions,
                                                                                                                                                                       incandescent glow. The many-chandeliered Long Gallery is            Head Hall Porter Michael De Cozar is your Man Friday at the
                                                                                                                                                                       adorned with immense bouquets of the fragrant Ritz rose, a          Ritz London.
                                                                                                                                                                       unique breed of rose created exclusively for the property.
                                                                                                                                                                         I take the lift—hand-painted with Regency-era women—to            the buffet pulls out all the stops—tables heave with breads
                                                                                                                                                                       my fourth-floor suite. Each of the 112 rooms and 24 suites is       and viennoiserie, juices, and cereals, and of course there’s
                                                                                                                                                                       done up in one of four signature colour schemes: salmon pink,       the à la carte English breakfast with eggs, sausage, bacon,
                                                                                                                                                                       rose pink, butter yellow, and powder blue. Mine is decked           mushrooms, and grilled tomato.
                                                                                                                                                                       out in salmon pink and Louis XVI-style décor with antique             The space transforms into a Michelin-starred restaurant for
                                                                                                                                                                       furnishing, gold crown mouldings, cascading jacquard and            dinner, helmed by Executive Chef John Williams (MBE) who
                                                                                                                                                                       damask silk drapes, and a marble-topped fireplace. My               gives British ingredients a distinctive French flair. The menu
                                                                                                                                                                       favourite bit is the vintage cream-coloured vanity table with       changes seasonally but you can expect dishes like langoustine
                                                                                                                                                                       a gilt-edged three-sided mirror, and a pink-upholstered             à la nage (in a savoury broth) and Bresse-style duck (poached
                                                                                                                                                                       round pouffe stool. Another highlight is the gleaming marble        and roasted so you get juicy meat and crackling brown skin).
                                                                                                                                                                       bathroom with its deep bathtub, Asprey bath products, and           Afternoon Tea at the Ritz is a London institution, served in
                                                                                                                                                                       luxuriously thick towels and bathrobes inscribed with the deep      the glittering many-mirrored Palm Court decorated with

                                                                                                                    Photo Courtesy: The Ritz London (building & man)
                                                                                                                    Previous spread: Imagedoc/Alamy/indiapicture
                                                                                                                                                                       blue Ritz lion.                                                     chandeliers, gilt trellises, and floral drapes. Penguin-suited
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           butlers flit about bringing you tier stands of crust-less finger
                                                                                                                                                                       Classic fare                                                        sandwiches, airy pastries, and warm scones with Cornish
                                                                                                                                                                       The Ritz Restaurant is possibly one of the most decadent            clotted cream and jam. Choose from a selection of 18 loose-
                                                                                                                                                                       dining rooms I have eaten in. Marble columns line the wall,         leaf teas curated by a certified Tea Sommelier, as the resident
                                                                                                                                                                       gilded neoclassical statues abound, floor-to-ceiling windows        pianist serenades you (he played a little Kal Ho Na Ho ditty for
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                                                                                                                                                                       overlook the neighbouring Green Park, and a mirrored wall           my benefit).
                                                                                                                                                                       adds to the feeling of light and space. I look up and my jaw          Apart from this, there’s the Rivoli Bar, an intimate Art Deco
                                                                                                                                                                       drops at the sight of the gold chandeliers and the gilded           cocktail lounge, and The Ritz Club, an underground casino
                                                                                                                                                                       bronze garland circling the ceiling that’s painted with a pale      in a dazzling setting. If you’re a cigar aficionado, head to Ritz
                                                                                                                                                                       blue sky and plump white clouds. Breakfast is served on             London Cigars, the only five-star indoor sampling lounge
                                                                                                                                                                       cerulean crockery accompanied by proper silverware, and             and cigar shop in Central London that opened just last year.

88   national Geographic Traveller INDIA | May 2019                                                                                                                                                                                                             may 2019 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA   89
Glamour and Gilt The old-world charm of The Ritz London still endures in the 21st century - Amazon S3
The destination

The hotel retains its old-world aura with a strict dress code
and jeans and sneakers are not allowed in the public areas
and restaurants. I dine at the Ritz Restaurant one last time
surrounded by gentlemen in jackets and ties (as is required),
and ladies togged up in their finest dresses and jewellery (I’m
glad I decided to throw on a string of pearls before heading
down to dinner). The lighting is low, the conversation is at a
gentle murmur, and I see several special occasion celebrations
and a couple of dinner dates. It’s no surprise that the final
scenes of the acclaimed British period drama Downton Abbey
was filmed at The Ritz with the cast all dressed up in 1920s
glamour. Yes, The Ritz London is unabashedly old school,
but in an ever-changing world, there’s a case to be made for
traditions (and nostalgia).

Essentials
The Ritz London is at the heart of London, at 150 Piccadilly.
The hotel lies 25 km/40 min from Heathrow Airport                          The Michelin-starred Ritz Restaurant gives a modern spin to classic
(theritzlondon.com; doubles from £425/ `38,000).                           French cuisine.

                                      R eta il T h er a py

                                                                                                                                                 Alan Spedding/Moment Open/getty images (food), Luis Davilla/agefotostock/dinodia photo library (shop)
                                                                                                                  Bespoke shirts by the
                                                                                                          130-year-old Turnbull & Asser
                                                                                                          have dressed the likes of Sean
                                                                                                           Connery and Prince Charles.

     Michael De Cozar, Head Hall Porter has           British institution for more than 300       it, stock up on ties, collars, pocket
     been with Ritz London for 45 years and           years. Shop for teas, marmalades,           squares, and other accessories; 71-72,
     is a concierge par excellence. Here he           condiments, cakes, biscuits, and more,      Jermyn St; turnbullandasser.co.uk
     offers his recommendations on the best           all of which are made exclusively for       Berry Brothers & Rudd is Britain’s
     shopping spots near the hotel. All stores        the store; 181 Piccadilly; fortnumand-      oldest wine merchant with an
     are royal warrant holders, a mark of             mason.com                                   unbeatable choice of wine and spirits. De
     recognition for shops that supply to HM          Turnbull & Asser is the place to get        Cozar recommends a bottle of Château
     The Queen and other royal households.            a bespoke shirt made, even Prince           Haut-Brion, a perfect gift to bring back
     Fortnum & Mason has been a                       Charles swears by it. While you’re at       home; 3 St. James’s St; bbr.com

90   national Geographic Traveller INDIA | May 2019
Glamour and Gilt The old-world charm of The Ritz London still endures in the 21st century - Amazon S3 Glamour and Gilt The old-world charm of The Ritz London still endures in the 21st century - Amazon S3
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