IS BEAUTY COLOUR DEEP? ANALYSING THE DEMAND FOR SKIN LIGHTENING - March-April 2020 | aestheticmed.in
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INSPIRING BEST PRACTICE
IN MEDICAL AESTHETICS
IS BEAUTY
COLOUR DEEP? GLUTATHIONE: A
ANALYSING THE WONDER DRUG?
DEMAND FOR SKIN KNOW ALL ABOUT IT
LIGHTENING
March-April 2020 | aestheticmed.in IN REALITY
VIRTUAL REALITY IN
AESTHETICS
U S E F U L I N FO R M AT I O N
www.aestheticmed.in
INSPIRING BEST PRACTICE
IN MEDICAL AESTHETICS
MARCH-APRIL 2020
IS BEAUTY
COLOUR DEEP? GLUTATHIONE: A
ANALYSING THE WONDER DRUG?
DEMAND FOR SKIN KNOW ALL ABOUT IT
LIGHTENING
March-April 2020 | aestheticmed.in IN REALITY
March-April 2020
VIRTUAL REALITY IN
AESTHETICS
Managing Director and Publisher
Vikas Vij
E: vikas.vij@ideas-exchange.in
T: +91 22 6171 3201
Executive Editor NEWS AND ANALYSIS SKIN/
Shriyal Sethumadhavan 10 08 NEWS DERMATOLOGY
E: shriyal.s@ideas-exchange.in The latest news from the 18 IS BEAUTY
T: +91 22 6171 3262 industry. COLOUR DEEP?
Consulting Editor Skin lightening is a
16 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE double-edged sword. It is
Kanishka Ramchandani
E: kanishka@wordmonk.in Cooltech – The most an in-demand treatment;
M: +91 9619544787 advanced Cryolipolysis however, it comes with
device for fat reduction. a heavy load of cultural
Finance Director baggage.
Sharmila Pandey
E: sharmila.pandey@ideas-exchange.in
M: +91 9987588439 26 HYDRATION 101!
Moisturisers are an
Design 28 essential part of every
Dilip Vishwakarma skincare routine. We bring
E: dilip.idex@gmail.com you top trending ones.
T: +91 22 6171 3211
Advertising 28 COSMETIC
Deepesh Kank TRENDS 2020
E: deepesh.kank@ideas-exchange.in RealSelf reveals results
M: +91 8286810609 of a survey for aesthetic
treatments.
Marketing
Khyati Mishra
E: khyati.mishra@ideas-exchange.in 30 PATH OF THE
M: +91 9769281874 TRAILBLAZER
Dr Aparna Santhanam has
Operations seen India’s aesthetic graph
Priyanka Parshurami 34 go through its ups and
E: priyanka.parshurami@ideas-exchange.in downs in the past
M: +91 9833472397
two decades.
Circulation – Subscription & Database
Shahnawaz Ansari 38 GLUTATHIONE:
E: ansari.shahnawaz@ideas-exchange.in A WONDER DRUG?
T: +91 22 61713232 Skin experts face another
challenge of rising
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4 Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020
CONTENTS
www.aestheticmed.in IN THIS ISSUE...
30 32 41 EVENTS
50 GROWING BUSINESS
AESTHETICALLY
The recently concluded
edition of Aesthetic
Medicine Live at Olympia
London witnessed the
best practitioners.
52 10 REASONS WHY...
...you can't miss the
HAIR INJECTABLES 45 FIVE WAYS TO DEVICES Aesthetic Medicine India
RESTORATION 34 FILL OR THREAD? INCREASE YOUR 58 DEVICES & PRODUCT show scheduled for 26th-
32 THE FUTURE Using threads to give lips CLINIC’S PATIENT LAUNCHES 27th of September, 2020.
IS 'HAIR' a subtle tweak could be BASE IN 2020 Know what’s the latest in
Hair restoration the next big lip Dr Harry Singh shares his devices and products 54 AESURG 2020
surgeon Dr Avinash augmentation trend. tips for turbo-charging
In a first-of-its-kind
Agrawal talks about hair Georgia Seago finds out. your clinic’s patient base. 62 TREATING SCARS initiative, AeSurg 2020,
transplantation and what THE RIGHT WAY the annual conference of
it entails. BUSINESS 46 ON A JOURNEY Derma devices form an the Indian Association of
41 IN THE BUSINESS Independent nurse important part of a doctor's Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons
OF SKINCARE prescriber Julie Scott armoury when it comes to (IAAPS), was held on-board
Bryan Johns, President discusses the patient dealing with scars. a cruise liner.
60 and CEO, iS Clinical, talks journey.
about the scope of luxury OUT AND ABOUT 61 EVENTS CALENDAR
cosmeceuticals in India. 48 TIME IS MONEY 64 OUT AND ABOUT Save the Date!
Gilly Dickons aks, is In the industry this
42 FACEBOOK V outsourcing the key to month...
INSTAGRAM more time and money?
Jemma Edwards
examines the differences
between Facebook and
Instagram in promoting
your business. Welcome to the
March-April2020 issue of
Aesthetic Medicine magazine
Dear Reader
The term 'fairness' was in news recently when the Ministry of Health and
Family Welfare drafted an amendment to ban advertisements around products
that promote fairness, amongst a list of other things. While this will have serious
repercussions on the marketing campaigns of brands, it aims to address the
48
burning issues associated with the misuse of this term. In our cover feature, we bring
you a host of perspectives on skin lightening treatments and the line demarcating
expectations from reality. Adding to the information in this feature is our lead story on
glutathione. We hope to provide a 360 degree view of what this concept entails.
I am sure you will find our business features of great help too, as we touch on
interesting topics of social media channels and outsourcing for your clinic. As
always we have our thumb on the pulse of the industry as we bring you reports,
such as the one on AeSurg 2020, and exclusive interviews, to keep the flow
of information steady and engaging.
Kanishka Ramchandani – Consulting Editor
Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020 5
E D I TO R I A L B O A R D
www.aestheticmed.in
O U R E X P E RT S
CLINICAL EXPERTISE
The Aesthetic Medicine editorial board
includes some of the leading names in
aesthetics. Their clinical expertise and
diverse range of specialties will help
ensure the magazine meets the needs
of its readers.
Dr Shailesh Vadodaria:
Consultant Aesthetic and
Reconstructive Plastic CALL FOR ARTICLES
Surgeon; on the Specialist
Register of the General
Medical Council, UK; I N J E C TA B L E S
practices from the Clementine Churchill BMI www.aestheticmed.in INTERVIEW
Hospital, Harley Street, and Medical Arts for
Cosmetic Surgery Clinic (MACS) in Watford,
North London
Finding the
Dr Lakshyajit D Dhami: perfect balance
Cosmetic, Plastic and Dr Kuldeep Minocha shares his expertise on full facial rejuvenation
Laser Surgeon; Consultant through the use of toxins and fillers
Cosmetic and Plastic Aesthetic Medicine: Why is it important to consider the
whole face when recommending treatments?
Dr Kuldeep Minocha: As aesthetic practitioners, we are
well as the nasolabial folds, and that’s all going to have an
impact on the entire face. You need to think more broadly
and consider other, often neglected, aesthetic subunits of
Surgeon at Nanavati and moving away from treating one particular area, such as
marionette lines or frown lines, to provide a more holistic
assessment that takes into account the balance and the
the face: the temple, the youthful convexity of the female
forehead, how the lower face sits in relation to the midface,
and how the lip proportions are not necessarily balanced. If
Hinduja Hospitals; Founder of harmony of the entire face. In the first consultation with a
new patient, it is vital to use this opportunity to showcase
what you can do with the modalities of treatment you have
you address all these concerns, you maintain the essence
of the individual patient while also making them look more
refreshed and youthful.
Vasudhan Arjin Cosmetic & Laser at your disposal, as this is what really makes you stand out
from your competitors.
My first consultation with any new patient usually takes
AM: Have you seen a rise in the number of people opting
for the full-face approach?
Surgery Centre, Mumbai; and President of around 45 minutes and I spend this time assessing
the patient and communicating the treatment
options available. It is important to get an
KM: I would say that there has been a rise in demand
for the full-face approach and people are more
open to having the conversation. Due to
Indian Association of Aesthetic Plastic idea of the patient’s concerns and to
take the time to explain the process of
age-related change, particularly with
“I believe one of
social media and the fact that this kind
of treatment is much more socially
acceptable, people know what is
the most important
Surgeons (IAAPS) regards to what is going on in the skin,
the subcutaneous fat, the muscles, the
deep fat compartments and the bones.
things to consider is what
the patient looks like in
available and what is achievable. Often
patients will seek you out requesting
specific treatments because they have
I believe one of the most important seen before and after images on the
things to consider is what the patient profile and in a internet, or they have read reviews or
looks like in profile and in the three- three-quarter view” testimonials.
Dr Amit Luthra: quarter view, so you are able to properly
assess the balance of the forehead, the nose,
upper and lower lip and chin. There are various
AM: When deciding on the treatment
options, how do you assess a patient?
Cosmetologist and parameters that you can measure but, with
experience, you get a feel for what needs to be balanced;
it is amazing what difference a small tweak or enhancement
KM: I did some work with Galderma where we
considered the facial assessment scale and concentrated
specifically on the five universally accepted facets of
Dermatologist; Heads Ishira
can make. natural beauty and attractiveness. The first is skin quality,
I regularly have patients who want work on their lips. so looking at skin hydration, skin damage, fine lines and
However, the problem is often not the lips themselves, it’s wrinkles. The second is facial shape. We don’t want a
Skin 'N' Child Clinic, New
that the chin sits too far back relative to the midface and square shape where most of the weight is in the lower third
needs to be brought forward. This can be easily corrected of the face, which is what happens naturally with ageing;
with one or two injection points in the chin, creating a very we want to recreate the heart-shaped face or restore
Delhi; Member of European
different balance in the entire face. You can treat the lips the natural facial oval. Next, we examine the face in the
in isolation, but you need to view them in relation to every frontal view, the profile view and the three-quarter view
other aesthetic subunit. to consider its proportions and contours. We also look at
Academy of Dermatology
As practitioners, we are moving away from talking to facial symmetry and what patients look like when they
our patients about injecting 1ml of filler to educating them are animated while laughing, smiling and speaking. Finally,
about different treatment areas. If you are treating the and just as important, is the emotion a patient’s face may
and Venereology (EADV),Indian Association
midface, for example, you’re going to treat the cheeks as convey. Do they look sad, angry or tired? >
of Dermatologists, Venereologists and
Aesthetic Medicine • May-June 2019 23
Leprologists (IADVL), and Cosmetology 074-078 AM MAR19 Galderma.indd 75 15/02/2019 15:34
Society of India (CDSI)
Dr Neeta Patel:
Plastic, Cosmetic and Are you interested in
becoming a contributor
Reconstructive Surgeon,
Mumbai; and past President of
Indian Association of Aesthetic
Plastic Surgeons (IAAPS) to Aesthetic Medicine
Dr Mukta Sachdev:
Head of Department and
magazine?
Consultant
Dermatologist, Manipal Do you have articles you would like to
Hospital, Bangalore; Director,
M S Skin Centre, Bangalore
write or any thoughts, treatment tips or
techniques you would like to share? Then
Dr Parag Telang: we would want to hear from you.
Director at Designer Bodyz
Centre for Advanced Whether it’s writing about running an
Cosmetic Surgery, Mumbai; aesthetics business or sharing your case
Consultant Cosmetic and
Reconstructive Plastic
studies and clinical expertise, you can get
Surgeon; and Specialist in autologous ear in touch with us with your ideas.
reconstruction, Minimal Incision Face-lift
(MACS-Lift) and ultrasonic liposuction
Dr Apratim Goel: Email: pbi.editorial@gmail.com
Senior Cosmetic
Dermatologist and Tel: 022 6171 3201
Venereologist; CEO and
Medical Director of Cutis Skin
Studio, Mumbai/; Fellow of
Academy of General Education (FAGE); and past
www.aestheticmed.in
President of Association of Facial Aestheticians
and Aesthetic Surgeons of India (AFAASI)
6 Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020
N E W S A N D A N A LY S I S
INDUSTRY NEWS www.aestheticmed.in
Plastic surgeon with a 'heart of gold'
awarded the Padma Shri
The list of unsung heroes who were honoured and awarded
with the Padma Shri was much appreciated by the people
of India for its diversity. The fourth highest civilian award
was given to the recipients in the capital by honourable
President Ram Nath Kovind. Residing in Malsi near Dehradun
in Uttarakhand, Padma Shri awardee Dr Yogi Aeron has
helped thousands his selfless and price-less care. Apart
from the award, Dr Aeron, a plastic surgeon, is the recipient
of the love and adoration of thousands of patients and their
families who have been treated by him for free. It has been
Dr Aeron’s life mission to help patients who are unable to
bear the costs of surgery. He has been treating patients
suffering from disfiguration and burns since the past
25 years. This generous octogenarian has a long waiting list
as underprivileged patients queue up to be treated by the
doctor who doesn’t charge them fees. He has the support of
doctors in the US and of a number of NGOs, too.
A tribute to Dr Rekha Sheth
Aesthetic Medicine magazine pays a on aesthetic dermatology practice in
tribute to Dr Rekha Sheth, a pioneer the country. Dr Sheth, who gave her
in cosmetic dermatology in India. peers and followers a legacy of ethical
Dr Sheth has had many firsts to her practice and superior knowlege passed
credit. She was the trailblazer who away on January 30, 2020. Her loss
conceptualised and opened India’s first is mourned by the entire fraternity.
beauty clinic in 1994 and was the first to Dr Sheth played an instrumental role
start using Botox, fillers and laser hair in the launch of Aesthetic Medicine
removal in India. She also founded the magazine and the show in India in 2019.
Cosmetology Society of India in 1997, Our team is highly indebted to her for
which to this day remains an authority her confidence in us.
The upcoming big masterclass
for plastic surgeons
Renowned surgeon Dr Neeta Patel invites all plastic algorithm for managing nipple inversion and a new surgical
surgeons and residents to join her in the upcoming technique; breast autologous fat grafting; substitution of
‘The Big Masterclass’ from March 12-15, 2020, at Fariyas in implant with fat-technical procedural improvisation for
Lonavala. The big masterclass will incorporate demos by better results; and long term (more than 10 years) follow up
experts such as Dr Sandeep Sattur for SMP, Dr Viral Desai for after breast fat grafting. On his part, Dr Amin Kalaaji, a plastic
fillers, Dr Sumit Agarwal for Neurotoxin, Dr Rustom Ginwalla surgeon from Oslo, Norway, and the President of Norwegian
for threads, Dr Ashit Shah for Endo RF, and Dr Apratim Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, shares, “There will be
Goel for chemical peel. Dr Apratim Goel, a dermatologist great faculty from three continents, and also great topics
practicing in Mumbai, says, “We will focus on anti-aging such as fat grafting, which is the most advanced topic in our
procedures such as chemical peels, IV infusion therapy and specialty. There will be lectures on facelift as well.”
a lot more.” Further, the masterclass on Periorbital Rejuvenation will
The four-day masterclass will include two elaborate be moderated by Dr Nitin Mokal, and the eminent faculty
sessions – one on Breast and one on Periorbital Rejuvenation. on the panel will include Dr Andre Auersvald and Dr Miguel
The session on Breast will be moderated by Dr Karishma Gonzalez. Topics of discussion will include periorbital surgery;
Kagodu and the eminent faculty on the panel will include the surgical correction of the aging eye; transconjunctival
Dr Kasey Sung, Dr Gino Riggott and Dr Amin Kalaaji. Topics lower eyelid blepharoplasty; fat pad sliding and fat grafting
of discussion will revolve around fat grafting for the for levelling lid depressions; observations on periorbital and
breast; treatment of breast asymmetry; tuberous breasts; midface aging; and managing eyelid symmetry.
8 Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020
THE FUTURE
OF THE
AESTHETICS
INDUSTRY
AWAITS YOU
Register your interest and be the first to
receive the education programmes
aestheticmed.co.uk/AMshows
@AestheticMLive
/aestheticmedicinelive
Entrance policy: The show is open to doctors, dentists, nurses, aestheticmed_live
medical professionals and qualified aesthetic practitioners.
Aesthetic Medicine
Strictly no persons under the age of 18 will be admitted.
N E W S A N D A N A LY S I S
INDUSTRY NEWS www.aestheticmed.in
NEWS IN BRIEF Men lagging behind
IS ELECTRIC FACIALS THE
NEW REALITY? women in skincare
Here’s the latest top-secret to great
skin: Different kinds of electricity,
administered to the face via
microcurrents, in a safe manner. Its
beneficial, and here’s how: It reduces
puffiness, boosts lymphatic drainage,
tightens the pores and tones the skin.
The gadget, which resembles a computer
mouse rimmed with gold, is becoming a
popular choice among celebrity make-
up artists. What’s more, its reportedly
known that Jennifer Aniston, Eva Mendes,
Margot Robbie, Sandra Bullock and
Priyanka Chopra Jonas have liked it.
VICTORY FOR TWO YOUNG
DERMATOLOGISTS
At the recently concluded
DERMACON-2020 in Pune, a national
conference of the Indian Association
of Dermatologists, Venereologists and
Leprologists (IADVL), two young doctors
of the skin department of Guru Gobind
Singh Medical College and Hospital
bagged awards for the papers they
presented at the event. While Dr Vishw
Kaushal received the Dr Manu Patel
memorial prize along with a cash prize for
best e-poster presentation on the use of
According to a survey conducted by a US-based company called Tiege Hanley,
radiofrequency treatment in keloid scar;
Dr Jaskirat Kaur won the Dr BB Gokhale men are nowhere close to women in taking care of their skins. Conducted by
award for best paper presentation on AcuPoll, the Men's Skin Care Survey by Tiege Hanley asks the age-old question,
newer treatment options of vitiligo. "What do men REALLY use when they wash?"
The poll of over 1,000 men age 18 and above revealed that one-third of men
BUSINESS ACQUISITION BY admit to not washing their faces daily. Younger men are more likely to drop the
Dr REDDY ball on their daily face wash routine, with half of men aged 18-24 admitting that
Dr Reddy’s Laboratories has reportedly
they don't wash their faces daily. Sixty-three per cent of men do not regularly
acquired 62 brands and a manufacturing
facility from Wockhardt for Rs 18.50 use face wash and 11 per cent say they've never even tried it! That means the
billion. The 62 formulations covered majority of guys are still rinsing with water, slathering up with body wash or
under this agreement are for treatment shampoo or soap.
of multiple diseases and applications One-third of men surveyed revealed they wash their faces with bar soap.
such as respiratory, neurology, VMS, While it may not be obvious, most men would not want to rely on the soap
dermatology, gastroenterology, pain and that's cleaning their armpits and private parts on their faces. Save your face by
vaccines. This marks the second such
dropping that bar due to its harsh effects on your face. Most commercial soaps
India-focused business acquisition by Dr
Reddy’s, the earlier one being acquisition have extremely high pH balances that can dry out your skin. Forty-five per cent
of a few products from Belgian-based of men think that bar soap is as effective as face wash and one-fifth of men use
UCB’s portfolio. body wash to wash their faces.
NEWS IN PICTURES
Dermacon 2020, the 48th National Conference of Indian Association of Dermatologists
Venereologists and Leprologists (IADVL), was held in Pune, Maharashtra, from 30th
January to 2nd February. The theme for this year's event was 'Tradition to Technology'.
Each day was power packed with educational sessions by top-notch dermatologists,
which were booked to full capacity with delegates eager to expand their boundaries.
The Dermacon 2020 exhibition hosted manufacturers and distributors from various
verticals. The faculty and delegates also indulged in different cultural programmes,
which were organised for their benefit.
10 Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020N E W S A N D A N A LY S I S
www.aestheticmed.in INDUSTRY NEWS
Hyaluronic Acid-Based Dermal Fillers
market size worth $5.9 billion by 2026
Rising emphasis on physical appearances, increasing
demand from the aging population to look young and fit, and
growing awareness regarding minimally invasive aesthetic
procedures with faster recovery is expected to boost the
market growth of Hyaluronic Acid-based dermal fillers.
According to the Grand View Research, Inc, Hyaluronic Acid
fillers account for a majority share in the overall injectable
dermal fillers market owing to their high compatibility with
the human body and easy reversibility of the procedure.
Lucrative growth in the lip augmentation segment is
attributed to the rising influence of social media, especially
on the population aged 18 to 35 years. Moreover, Hyaluronic
Acid fillers are the most preferred injectables due to faster
recovery time, negligible side effects, and economic cost
of the procedure. Improvements in healthcare facilities
due to rapid economic development in countries such as
China, Japan, and South Korea have made Asia Pacific the
most lucrative market. Dermal filler treatments are in high
demand in these countries and are being performed in
beauty clinics and spas, mainly in urban areas. development and marketing to expand their product life
Hyaluronic acid fillers are one of the highly recommended cycle and their position in the market. Some of the key
injectable procedures by dermatologists across the world industry contributors are Allergan; Galderma Laboratories
due to their biodegradable nature. A wide range of products L.P; Merz Pharmaceuticals; Genzyme Corporation;
are available in the market for various cosmetic procedures Anika Therapeutics Inc.; LG Life Sciences, Ltd (LG Chem);
such as wrinkle removal, lip augmentation, restoration Bioplus Co. Ltd.; Sculpt Luxury Dermal Fillers Ltd; Bioxis
of volume and contour, scar removal, hydration, and Pharmaceutical; Sinclair Pharma; Laboratoires Vivacy; and
rhinoplasty. Manufacturers are heavily investing in product Bohus Biotech AB.
Energy-based aesthetic device market to
witness a CAGR of 10.4 per cent
The global energy-based aesthetic devices market reached and acne removal. The electromagnetic energy-based
$2.6 billion in 2018, and it is predicted to witness a CAGR of devices division is expected to witness the highest CAGR
10.4 per cent during 2019-2024 (forecast period). The various during the forecast period. A key factor driving the growth
factors driving the growth of the market are the surging of the energy-based aesthetic devices market is the rising
geriatric population, rising awareness about the safety awareness regarding the safety and advantages of such
and advantages of such devices, and inclination towards devices. The several advantages of energy-based aesthetic
minimally invasive treatments. Energy-based aesthetic devices include quick recovery, fewer side-effects, minimal
devices use plasma, laser, radiofrequency, intense pulsed skin invasion, and lesser discomfort as compared to
light (IPL), and other forms of light, heat, or sound energies conventional surgical methods, which are painful and costly.
to perform fast, virtually painless, non-invasive or minimally The increasing inclination towards minimally invasive
invasive treatments. treatments is leading to the growth of the energy-based
On the basis of technology, the energy-based aesthetic aesthetic devices market. Surgical cosmetic procedures
devices market is divided into electromagnetic energy- are not cost-efficient and can be medically unsafe, resulting
based, ultrasound-based, suction-based, cryolipolysis, in various side-effects. Since energy-based aesthetic
plasma energy-based, light-based, and laser-based. The devices have led to the betterment of minimally invasive
laser-based division held the largest share of the market procedures, their demand is increasing significantly. Hence,
during the historical period (2014-2018), and it is predicted due to the increasing awareness about the advantages of
to register a CAGR of 10.1 per cent during the forecast energy-based aesthetic devices and growing preference
period. This is due to its several applications in aesthetics, toward minimally invasive treatments, the market is
such as fat and cellulite reduction, and hair, vascular lesion, growing considerably. Source: PR News Wire
Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020 11N E W S A N D A N A LY S I S
INDUSTRY NEWS www.aestheticmed.in
NEWS IN BRIEF Aesthetic medicine market
SHRUTI HAASAN ON
PLASTIC SURGERY
worth $103.4 billion by 2026:
In an inspiring post about being body
shamed, Actress Shruti Haasan recently
Grand View Research, Inc
The global aesthetic medicine market size is expected to reach
went on to Instagram stating: “Most
US$ 103.4 billion by 2026, exhibiting a CAGR of 8.9 per cent during the forecast
often I’m at the mercy of my hormones
period, according to a recent report by Grand View Research, Inc. Some key
mentally and physically, and over the
market drivers are rise in aging population, disposable income, and awareness
years, I work hard to try and have a
about the efficacy of aesthetic treatments. As reported, the research, among
healthy relationship with it. The pain
isn’t easy the physical challenges aren’t
other aspects, also mentions the non-invasive procedures segment and that
easy but what’s become easier to me is it is expected to maintain its dominance throughout the forecast period.
to share my journey.” She happily states, Botox injections, chemical peels, and soft tissue fillers are some of the most
“this is my life my face and yes I’ve had a frequently performed non-invasive procedures to address common issues
plastic surgery which I am not ashamed such as wrinkles, pigmentation, vascular conditions, loss of skin tone, and dull
to admit.” Does she promote it? Is she skin. Also, in the years to come, breast augmentation and nose reshaping in the
against it? Well, as she mentions, it’s the invasive procedures segment are anticipated to witness rapid growth owing
way she chooses to live! to a rising number of advanced technologies and skilled surgeons. Asia Pacific
is projected to witness rapid growth over the forecast period, owing to the
NEW APPOINTMENT AT presence of a large target population pool between 25 to 65 years in China and
ALMA MEDICAL India and improving standards of living in the region.
Why did Jane Fonda opt for
aesthetic plastic surgery?
In a decision that does not come easy to her, Hollywood Actress Jane Fonda
has decided to stop having a plastic surgery. She has opened up about her
struggles with self-acceptance, and in an interview with a leading fashion
Madhusudhan HK has been appointed as
magazine in Canada, Fonda has been quoted saying: “I can’t pretend that I’m not
the President of Alma Medical for India
vain, but there isn’t going to be any more plastic surgery – I’m not going to cut
and South Asia. Before joining Alma,
he was with Galderma India handling myself up anymore.” She also mentions that she struggles to work every day
their aesthetic business, and also to be self-accepting – “It doesn’t come easy to me.” At the age of 82, Fonda is
their mainstay dermatology business. bidding adieu to aesthetic plastic surgery. In her 2018 HBO documentary, Jane
He comes with more than 30 years Fonda in Five Acts, the Oscar-winning actor confessed that while she is glad,
of experience in the pharmaceutical, she looks her age, she has had plastic surgery. “On one level, I hate the fact that
aesthetic and dermatology domain, I’ve had the need to alter myself physically to feel that I’m okay. I wish I wasn’t
and is recognised by the aesthetic like that. I wish I was braver. But I am what I am.”
medicine industry for his expertise
119 per cent rise in women
and business insights. His predecessor
at Alma Medical, Soumen Dutta,
has been elevated to a new role within
the organisation. seeking online medical
SKINCARE CENTRE OPENS
IN NEW DELHI
consultations in 2019
Practo’s healthcare map on Indian women is based on insights from 7 crore
Lalita Arya, a beauty expert, has
opened her skin and hair care centre,
women users in the period of January 2019-December 2019. According to
DermaPurity, in Delhi. Lalita has a a recent release, the insights summarise the recent trends, which reflect
PG Diploma in Cosmetology and has the way women in India address their health concerns and take care of their
worked with reputed brands in the health needs. Registering a growth of over 119 per cent since last year,
beauty industry. She said at the launch, online consultations have emerged as one of the preferred modes of doctor
“Dermapuritys is not just a clinic. It is my consultations among Indian women. Gynaecology emerged as the most
ambition, and a vision I have been able popular speciality among women, especially in the age group of 20-30.
to fabricate into reality.” Dermapuritys Overall, dermatology and sexology rank as the second and third most popular
is well-equipped with FDA approved specialities among women users in 20-30 age group. Dermatology consults
machinery for skin, hair and body grew over 40 per cent since last year. Trichology and cosmetology were the
treatments. Some of the key concerns top categories of discussion among young women who are increasingly taking
that are addressed at Dermapuritys professional advice when it comes to the wellbeing of their skin and hair.
include acne, acne scars, photo-aging, Overall, sexology consults witnessed an increase of 130 per cent in the last
rosacea, melasma, cellulite, congested one year. Indian women find econsults as a safe alternative to self-diagnosis,
glands, oil glands, deep wrinkles and especially when it comes to their sexual health. It empowers them to be more
unwanted hair. proactive about their health, say medical experts.
12 Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020N E W S A N D A N A LY S I S
www.aestheticmed.in SPECIAL REPORT
Skin health during
menopause
Dr Diane S Berson, MD, FAAD, of the American Academy of Dermatology
(AAD), presents information on maintaining skin health during menopause.
B
y the time they reach menopause — which
officially begins one year after a woman’s last
period — many women think they have their lives
figured out. Careers are well established; children
are grown and independent; and there’s more time
for leisure and self-care. Yet many women in their 40s and
50s are surprised to suddenly notice changes on their skin,
including acne and age spots. Fortunately, dermatologists
from the American Academy of Dermatology say that while
many of these changes are inevitable due to hormones,
there is a lot women can do at home to lessen these effects.
“Although fluctuating hormones during menopause can
result in a number of skin changes, these don’t need to be
certified dermatologist, who can prescribe treatments
disruptive to daily life,” says board-certified dermatologist
for postmenopausal acne.
Dr Diane S. Berson, MD, FAAD. “With the right care, women
can continue to have healthy, blemish-free skin during TREAT AND PREVENT AGE SPOTS: If you’ve spent ample
midlife and beyond.” time in the sun without sun protection, you may see the
effects now. Age spots and larger areas of darker skin
TO CARE OF YOUR SKIN DURING MENOPAUSE, can appear on your face, hands, neck, arms or chest. Skin
DR BERSON RECOMMENDS THE FOLLOWING TIPS: cancer and pre-cancerous growths can also become
SOOTHE DRY SKIN: During menopause, estrogen levels more common. To prevent age spots, protect your skin
decrease, leading to changes on the skin such as dryness from the sun. Before going outdoors, apply a broad-
and itching. This can be especially noticeable when the air spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to all
is dry. To help prevent dryness, wash your skin with a mild skin not covered by clothing. This can help fade age spots,
cleanser, as regular soap may be too drying. After bathing prevent new spots from forming and reduce your risk
or showering and throughout the day, apply a moisturizer of skin cancer. Remember to take other sun-protective
with hyaluronic acid or glycerin. Don’t forget to apply the measures as well, including seeking shade and wearing
moisturiser to your jawline and neck. protective clothing, such as a long-sleeved shirt, pants, a
RELIEVE ITCH: To help soothe itchy skin, apply a cool, wet wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses.
compress. To make a cool compress, soak a clean towel If the appearance of age spots bothers you, there are
or washcloth in cool water and wring it out until damp. many products available that may help lighten the spots.
Apply it to the skin that itches. After removing it, apply Many fade creams and lotions are available without a
moisturizer. You can also relieve itchy skin by taking a prescription and may help improve the appearance of
colloidal oatmeal bath. This soothing product is available age spots, depending on how dark the spots are. Look for
in most drug and beauty stores. When bathing, make products that contain hydroquinone, glycolic acid or kojic
sure to use warm, not hot water, and pat your skin dry — acid. Apply these products daily for two months. Your
instead of rubbing — to avoid further irritation. dermatologist can also prescribe creams and lotions to help
TREAT AND PREVENT ACNE: Due to fluctuating with age spots and perform in-office procedures, such as
hormones, some women develop acne during menopause. peels or lasers, to further fade the pigmentation.
If you have acne, wash your skin with a cleanser containing “Remember, since skin cancer can sometimes look like an
benzoyl peroxide. However, if the cleanser dries out your age spot, and since your risk of skin cancer increases with
skin, stop using it and opt for a mild cleanser instead. age, it’s important to perform regular skin self-exams during
You can also consider applying a product containing menopause,” says Dr Berson. “Doing so can help you detect
adapalene to prevent breakouts. Always be gentle with skin cancer early, when it is most treatable. If you notice any
your skin. Avoid vigorously scrubbing your skin or picking new spots on your skin, spots that are different from others,
and squeezing at acne, as this can lead to scarring. In or spots that are changing, itching or bleeding, make an
addition, avoid acne products that dry out your skin, as appointment to see a board-certified dermatologist. AM
this can worsen acne. If these tips don’t work, see a board- Source: www.aad.org
Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020 13MUMBAI
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WEIGHT LOSS www.aestheticmed.in
Cooltech – The most
advanced Cryolipolysis
device for fat reduction
Dr Venu Kumari (MD, DVL, LMIADVL), Chief
Dermatologist at Dr Venus Institute of Skin & Hair,
Hyderabad, shares her views on the Cryolipolysis technology
and her experience of using Cooltech.
E
xcessive localised fat or body weight
has become a major public health issue
in India. Besides aesthetic and physical
dissatisfaction, the risks associated with
it, such as hypertension, dyslipidaemia,
diabetes, pose a bigger threat to an individual.
Fat removal and body contouring treatments
are becoming more popular amongst patients
along with lifestyle changes. Liposuction is an
effective surgical method of fat removal. But,
given the invasive nature of the treatment and
its inherent risks, new modalities have been
developed to address this issue from non-
invasive perspective. Several techniques
have been used by practitioners such as
laser, ultrasound, radiofrequency and other
light-based energy devices, with variable
degree of efficacy.
Dr Venu Kumari, MD, Chief Dermatologist
at Dr Venus Institute of Skin & Hair,
Hyderabad, shares her views on Cryolipolysis
technology. “Cryolipolysis is one of the
most advanced method of non-invasive fat
reduction. This non-surgical approach uses
controlled cooling to decrease subcutaneous
fat without damaging surrounding tissue.
The cold induces an inflammatory response,
which causes the adipocyte programmed death
(apoptosis) and thereby, gradually reduces the
fat layer. Within 3 months, macrophages clear
damaged cells and debris from treatment area.
Cryolipolysis effects are not immediate; however,
significant fat reduction may be obtained within
approximately 70-90 days from application.”
She adds, “Apoptosis of fat cells is initiated
when these cells are cooled to the temperature
of -8°C. However, it primarily targets physical
properties of fat that differentiate it from the
overlying epidermis and dermis tissue, thus
16 Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020P R O M O T I O N A L F E AT U R E
www.aestheticmed.in WEIGHT LOSS
Before Treatment After Treatment
resulting in selective destruction of adipocytes. Also, the vessels, which brings heat in the area and allows effective
destruction of adipocytes does not affect serum lipid levels cooling of adipocyte.”
or liver function test significantly.” According to Dr Venu, pre- and post-procedure pictures
are very important for the assessment. As the results are
RESULT-ORIENTED TREATMENT gradual and are appreciated after few weeks, it is important
Dr Venu has been using Cooltech device from Cocoon to maintain the patient’s before and after images (with
Medical, Spain, for more than a year and considers it as standard photography guidelines) during patient counselling.
a real solution for fat reduction. “The results are proven, She explains, “Unlike liposuction treatment, it is not a single
noticeable and lasting, patient satisfaction rate is high. session treatment. We can get limited fat reduction, around
There is no requirement of anaesthesia and there is no 20% in every treatment session. Though this is not standard
downtime. Both male and female can be a candidate for and may vary in every patient, it has been observed that it
this treatment. We can treat pinchable fat from all areas will produce noticeable reduction in every treatment. We
of the body including abdomen, thighs, flanks, bra bulges, recommend 2-3 treatment sessions per area for optimal
buttocks, upper arm, double chin, etc. An individual with results. As Cooltech device does not require any consumable
Body Mass Index (BMI) of 30 or less with localised fat is an or software codes, patients are not burdened with treatment
ideal candidate for Cooltech treatment.” budget.” There have been multiple clinical studies conducted
Another advantage in Dr Venu’s experience is the and published in various international journals, about the
provision of two applicators in Cooltech. “We can work safety and efficacy of Cooltech technology. It is considered
on two areas simultaneously with two applicators. This as a safe and efficient non-invasive method of fat removal
reduces treatment time by half compared to other without adverse effects. An ability to remove fat cells
Cryolipolysis devices and can be done during lunch hour.” completely through natural apoptosis process and to
She says, “Cooling heads needs to applied for around 70 produce definitive results, makes this the most sought-after
minutes and the treatment area is massaged briefly post body contouring treatment amongst patients. “Cooltech with
removal of attachment. Patented Cool Gel Pad provides its six different types of applicators for different body areas
maximum protection to skin tissue and works as an excellent provide the total body contouring solution to my patients,”
thermal conductor. Vacuum plays a very important role in she concludes.
this treatment. As body tissue is pulled inside the cooling Cooltech is available in more than 40 countries across the
head due to suction, it temporarily detaches the blood world and in India it is represented by Skinnovation Pvt Ltd. AM
Before Treatment After Treatment
Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020 17S K I N / D E R M AT O LO G Y
COVER FEATURE www.aestheticmed.in
18 Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020S K I N / D E R M AT O LO G Y
www.aestheticmed.in COVER FEATURE
Is beauty
colour deep?
Skin lightening is a double-edged sword. It is an in-demand treatment; however,
it comes with a heavy load of cultural baggage. Practitioners often face a dilemma
while dealing with patients with skin lightening requirements. How do
dermatologists handle such situations? What is their modus operandi?
Kanishka Ramchandani delves into all these and more questions about skin
lightening in aesthetic dermatology practice.
F
airness has long been a trigger word for advertising medicine as well. People are now seeking professional help
consumer personal care products. From face to achieve fairer skin as they are not completely satisfied
washes to night creams and everything in between with the results of over-the-counter products. Fairness is a
is perceived to have an added advantage if it comes concept that’s wrought with ethical and cultural issues, and
with the ‘fairness’ tag. Skin whitening products the role of a skin expert in educating the patients, therefore,
are often a go-to option for people with darker skin becomes pivotal.
tone or pigmentation as they believe in the I had recently changed my skincare products
misinformation that fairness products can, and noticed some improvement in my facial
for real, lighten their skin. A research skin. To confirm my findings, I asked my
report by Future Market Insights titled husband if he has noticed anything
‘Skin Lightening Products Market: When they (patients) different about my face. His answer
Global Industry Analysis 2012- ask for skin whitening, was – “Yes, you look fairer.” ‘Looking
2016 and Opportunity Assessment fairer’ was the last thing on my mind,
they might be dealing and so, I was quite surprised by his
2017-2027’, has interesting insights
about the skin lightening product with pigmentation or reply. That got me thinking as to what
market. The report has stated that the dull skin a lay person means by the word ‘fair’.
global market is witnessing a surge with Fair, to a large extent, is an umbrella term
the growing consciousness among people comprising concepts like radiant, even
regarding their appearance. However, the toned and clear skin. However, ‘fairness’ is
market may face limitations in its growth due also the reason why the demand for skin lightening
to lack of documented evidence pertaining to is so often misconstrued. It is one requirement that comes
the clinical efficacy of skin lightening products. The global with cultural and racial connotations and calls for a multi-
skin lightening products market is expected to reach a pronged approach on part of the dermatologist governed
valuation of over US$ 24 billion by the end of 2027, with sensitivity and sympathy.
growing at a CAGR of 6.1 per cent during the forecast Going with my personal experience, I started my
period. The report has also highlighted key findings such investigation on the subject by asking doctors on what,
as popularity of lotions and creams over other product according to them, is the difference between skin lightening,
formats, women end consumers commanding a lion’s share whitening and brightening?
in the market, and the synthetic segment having higher Dr Neetu Rajdeo, Dermatologist and MD, Skinhance
valuation than the natural or herbal segment. Skin Hair & Laser Clinic: Lightening is reduction in
These findings are based on consumer products but pigmentation. Brightening is increasing radiance and
the demand for lighter skin has percolated into aesthetic glow of skin.
Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020 19S K I N / D E R M AT O LO G Y
COVER FEATURE www.aestheticmed.in
Dr Niteen Dhepe, Medical Director, PSYCHOLOGICAL IMPACT
SkinCity and The Postgraduate Historically, the idea of fair skin being
Institute of Dermatology: The better than skin of any other colour is
general population uses these
Sometimes the a racial construct. Unfortunately, for
three words synonymously and skin gets discoloured Indians, the long-standing British rule
there is a lot of confusion in their because of internal reinforced this idea further resulting
minds. in widespread acceptance of the
toxification, which
Dr Amit Karkhanis, Dermatologist, maxim ‘fair skin is better’. Women
Cosmetologist and MD, Dr Tvacha prevents the skin from were easier targets, and its impact
Clinics: The difference between skin having vibrancy can be seen on decades of targetted
lightening and whitening is largely marketing for fairness products. But
based on the degree to which melanin this trend is not specific to India as other
production is reduced. Skin lightening is countries in Asia and Africa are also flourishing
used when the method is more gradual markets, and each of them come with their
and the effect less obvious while whitening cultural connotations.
is used to describe a more aggressive technique. In the skin whitening category, topical application
Brightening is more about restoring vibrancy to the skin. tops the charts, followed by in-salon treatments such
Dr Priti Shenai, MD, Skinworks Clinic: Skin lightening as bleaching and home remedies. However, the real
refers to lightening a particular area of the face that has game-changer for this segment is aesthetic medicine
pigmentation such as periorbital or perioral melanosis, practice. With rising awareness amongst consumers
freckles or melasma. Whitening is a casual term that came about the ill-effects of bleaching and busting of myths
into being because of fairness creams. It’s a marketing around skin whitening, they are turning to medical
concept by cosmeceutical companies. Brightening is experts for proper guidance. Definitely, this is a
about getting a glow or a rejuvenated treat. positive sign.
20 Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020S K I N / D E R M AT O LO G Y
COVER FEATURE www.aestheticmed.in
Another important insight regarding skin whitening is perspective of healthy skin. I don’t support changing the
that most of the negative publicity that it has garnered skin’s colour except for the specific condition mentioned
is due to targetted marketing rather than the concept of above. Sometimes the skin gets discoloured because of
fairness itself. The unrealistic and unreasonable internal toxification, which prevents the skin from
ideas depicted in the advertising campaigns of having vibrancy. This treatment on the internal
such products has made the very concept factors is healthy for the body as well and
of fairness a grey area. We get medical may lead to a brighter skin.”
experts to shed light on these doubts Our experts are not only staunchly
and give us a clear view of what skin Unless you are against the idea of getting fairer skin
lightening entails. sure that the patient but also advocate holistic treatment
for pigmentation. At this point, it
FAIR SKIN: CONSULTATION OR
understands your view on becomes important to make the
COUNSELLING? skin whitening, do not patient understand the difference
Patients who walk into an aesthetic proceed further between these concepts and direct
clinic looking for fairness treatments her thought process toward healthy
are not completely aware of their own glowing skin.
situation. That’s why consultation with What should be ideally done for
these patients is an important task for the patients who walk in demanding
doctors. When they ask for skin whitening, fairness treatments?
they might be dealing with pigmentation or dull skin. Their “Counselling! Counselling! Counselling!” reiterates Dr
skin condition might be the result of incorrect treatments Rajdeo. “I make my patients understand the importance of
or over-use of certain products. However, since their initial healthy skin rather than fairness. To help them out, I give
demand is for fairer skin, it is important to dispel this them oral antioxidants, suggest lifestyle changes, promote
myth first. a balanced diet and recommend exercise.”
Dr Dhepe explains, “Personally, I discourage the concept WLargely, patients go to an aesthetic practitioner asking
of fairness treatments in India. This has a base of racism and for skin whitening treatments because of what they see in
white supremacy. Glowing skin is more important than skin the media, under the influence of a celebrity or due to family
colour. It is possible to have a face with fair skin and a dull pressure. Educating them gets crucial here, and the onus
look. Its reverse is also possible – dark but glowing skin. Aim lies on the practitioners. Dr Dhepe states, “Patients have
for glowing skin and not fairness. a distorted idea of fairness treatments or plastic surgery.
Dr Rajdeo says, “I don’t believe in fairer skin. But I help my They believe that any skin can be turned milky white with
patients get healthy and even toned skin.” creams or injections or surgery. During consultation, we
Since pigmentation is a major skin concern in a tropical clear all these misconceptions, and explain the difference
country like India, Dr Karkhanis elaborates on its impact between glow and fairness. We also explain the limitation
on the demand for fairer skin. “Primarily, even toned skin to which the skin can be lightened – one to one and half
always looks good, irrespective of the colour. Pigmentation shade – and cannot be turned white completely. Sun
acquired on the skin should always be reduced from a exposure and tanning can reverse the effect of any skin
22 Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020S K I N / D E R M AT O LO G Y
www.aestheticmed.in COVER FEATURE
lightening treatment. So, strict sun protection is a must for hydroquinone or a triple combination for a few months to
good results.” treat concerns such as melanosis. In between these,
For patients seeking brightening treatments, I would place my array of procedures, which
Dr Shenai says, “There is nothing would be a combination of alternately
pathologically wrong with the skin of chemical peels and Q switch,” explains
such patients. They want to enhance Dr Shenai.
their skin tone. No matter how fair Depending upon the diagnosis
a woman might be, she would still Male patients want and the practitioner’s specialty,
want her skin to be brightened. faster results. They prefer there are several treatments that
However, if a patient comes looking can be carried out to get radiant
oral medication over even-toned skin. Dr Dhepe says,
for fair skin, I first analyse her skin
type and tone. If she is a skin type topical applications “Standard treatments used for skin
5 or 6, I tell her categorically that I glow and lightening include topical
cannot make her fair. The shade of her creams containing arbutin, kojic acid
skin can be slightly lightened but she can’t and azelic acid as well as procedures such
drastically be given a fair skin.” as chemical peels, q switched Nd YAG lasers.
Injection treatment with strong antioxidants such
TREATING IT THE RIGHT WAY as glutathione and vitamin C is also recommended for a few.”
Once your consultation is thoroughly done, you can take the At her clinic, Dr Rajdeo carries out paraffin facial,
next step of diagnosing the concern and recommending the magnificent facial and photo facials as well as
line of treatment. However, our experts would like to caution different chemical peels such as yellow and retinol
their peers against progressing too eagerly. Unless you are peels and laser toning. She also recommends Meso
entirely sure that the patient completely understands your Botox, skin booster injections and fillers for hydration.
point of view on skin whitening and accepts the realistic Dr Karkhanis concentrates on peels, laser treatments and
goals you have set, do not proceed further. injections to tackle skin brightening and anti-pigmentation
cases at Dr Tvacha clinics. “We also prescribe various
COMMON CONDITIONS THAT REQUIRE SKIN medicines to get rid of acquired pigmentations,” he adds.
LIGHTENING TREATMENT INCLUDE:
Acne marks with pigmentation AESTHETIC DEVICES USED FOR SKIN
Melasma LIGHTENING AND PIGMENTATION TREATMENTS:
Lichen planus pigmentation Intense Pulse Light (IPL)
Post inflammatory pigmentation Q switch laser
Reihl’s Melanosis Pico laser
Tanning Erbium YAG Laser
Uneven skin tone Erbium Glass Laser
Sun-damaged skin
Dull and lustre-less skin Post-procedure skincare is vital. While the doctor might
Certain lifestyle related disorders recommend certain products to soothe the skin after a
laser session, she might also prescribe other products to
“The first step is to prime the patient so that systemic help maintain the skin’s healthy glow and brightening effect.
and topical treatments are given, before you Dr Karkhanis states, “Steroids should never be used
use your machines or procedures. Start off with for this. There are various other skin lightening or anti-
antioxidants and sunscreen. I would also add moisturiser pigmentation creams like azelic acid, kojic acid,
to her regime depending on the skin’s texture. Nowadays, hydroquinone and retinoic acid that can be used to lighten
we get moisturisers with additives skin lightening the skin.”
agents or vitamin C. I would give a medicated cream like a Dr Rajdeo’s list of topical applications include products
with ingredients such as glycolic acid, arbutin, kojic acid,
COURSE OF ACTION vitamin C and E, topical retinoids and glutathione.
Dr Amit Karkhanis, Dermatologist, Cosmetologist and
MD, Dr Tvacha Clinics, says, “We strongly recommend WHAT MEN WANT
the use of a sunscreen between 9 am and 5 pm, with While skin lightening has been the domain of women,
application 20 minutes before going out. We suggest this scenario is changing rapidly. Men, too, are joining the
certain antioxidants such as vitamin C that helps brigade. With rising awareness about the impact of one’s
detoxify the body internally. It is healthy for the body. We look and the importance of grooming, men are seeking
also prescribe creams such as retinoic acid to keep the professional help to deal with pigmentation. But much like
skin healthy. The idea is more to prevent pigmentation
the women, they, too, are confused about what the idea of
and remove acquired pigmentation, which will make a
fairness entails.
person’s skin radiant.”
Dr Karkhanis points out, “Men are also a consumer of
Aesthetic Medicine • March-April 2020 23You can also read
