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December ‘18 | January ‘19
Inflight magazine | Your personal copy
Heritage:
Kargopol
Embroidery
18+
to readers
Dear Passenger,
Welcome aboard this Aeroflot aircraft. As the winter holi- brand valuation and strategy, have named Aeroflot the
day season approaches, please accept my very best wishes most powerful airline brand globally. And we recently be-
for Christmas and the New Year. came the first Russian winner of the Grand Prix at the IPRA
If you’ve not flown with Aeroflot before, or are coming Golden World Awards for Excellence (GWA), the world’s
back to us after some time away, you may be surprised — most prestigious PR awards, for our “Sulimov Dogs” cam-
and we hope delighted — at what you find. Today’s Aeroflot paign — a pet therapy programme for children with autism
is a fast-growing and confident carrier with global ambi- created using Aeroflot’s own breed of sniffer dog.
tions and some of the best customer service in the industry. Back in the air, another of Aeroflot’s key competitive ad-
In 2018 we celebrated our 95th anniversary, making us vantages is our ability to offer some of the shortest journey
one of the world’s oldest airlines. But at the same time we times for passengers travelling between Europe and Asia.
are also the youngest — the average age of our aircraft is Moscow’s geographical location and the seamless connec-
just four years, younger than any other major carrier in the tivity through our modern facilities at Sheremetyevo Air-
world. Our young fleet is also a key reason why we are one of port mean that your journey can be more than two hours
the world’s safest airlines, and pass the industry benchmark shorter than via other major hubs.
IOSA and ISAGO audits with flying colours. Shorter journey times are one reason why Aeroflot has
Our constant drive to improve the passenger experi- become the #1 transit carrier between Europe and China,
ence — from booking and boarding to inflight service and one of the world’s most competitive aviation markets. Our
beyond — is recognised by the industry and our passen- superior service has also been recognised in China, where
gers alike. We are proud holders of the 4-Star Airline status Aeroflot was named Favourite International Airline at the
from Skytrax, the authority on airline service quality, plac- Flyer Award Ceremony.
ing us firmly in the top tier of global carriers. Passengers This winter Aeroflot is offering even more connections
from around the world have again voted Aeroflot a Five Star with the addition of several enticing new destinations. This
Global Airline for 2019 in a ranking compiled by US passen- means that today we connect every major European capital
ger association APEX, which also rates us as the Best Global with fast-growing markets and idyllic tourist destinations
Airline in Europe. in the Far East.
Votes from our passengers made us Europe’s top-rated All of this has helped Aeroflot to firmly re-establish it-
major airline — and best business class of any airline world- self among the world’s largest airline groups, ranking in the
wide — on TripAdvisor. At the World Travel Awards, known global top 20 by passenger traffic. But while our offering
as the “Oscars of the travel industry”, Aeroflot took the today is already recognised as among the best in the busi-
World’s Leading Airline Brand prize, and has twice been ness — combining traditional warm Russian hospitality
named Europe’s Leading Airline overall and also for Busi- with inspiration from all around the world — we believe
ness Class. Our offering for business travellers has also been that what we have achieved so far is only the beginning.
recognised by Business Traveller magazine, whose readers In particular, we are very excited about the possibilities
voted us Best Airline in Eastern Europe for the first time. offered by digital technologies to take the passenger ex-
These awards are among a string of accolades that go perience to the next level. We have already implemented
beyond just recognition of our high levels of service. The a number of projects in areas such as big data, and there is
experts at Brand Finance, the world’s leading authority on plenty more to come in future months and years.
photo: oleg zotov
Yours,
Vitaly Saveliev
CEO, Aeroflot
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19
news
100 Million Passengers
for the 100th Anniversary The First ever Business
of Aeroflot Traveller Award
The Board of Directors of PJSC Aeroflot – Russian Airlines has adopted a new Aeroflot has been named Best
Aeroflot Group Development Strategy for 2023: “100 million passengers for Airline in Eastern Europe at the
the 100th anniversary of Aeroflot”. In 2017, the Group carried 50.1 million pas- Business Traveller Awards, the first
sengers, putting Aeroflot in Europe’s top five legacy and among the global 20 time that the Russian flag carrier
largest aviation groups by passenger numbers. Now it’s tasked with transport- has scooped one of the annual
ing 90-100 million passengers in 2023, when Aeroflot will celebrate its cen- awards voted for by readers of lead-
tenary anniversary. The role of the key driver of growth is assigned to Pobeda ing UK magazine Business Traveller.
Airlines, and it’s expected that by 2023 it will be transporting 25-30 million The awards have been among the
passengers annually. In addition, the new development strategy includes such most prestigious in the industry for
tasks as boosting international transit traffic from five million passengers in more than 30 years. The results of
2017 to 10-15 million in 2023; launching regional hubs in Sochi, Yekaterinburg, the poll of the magazine’s readers
and Novosibirsk as well as opening an international hub in Krasnoyarsk and are authenticated by an independ-
increasing regional traffic threefold; adding more modern Russian-built aircraft ent auditing company, and are
in the Group’s fleet and operating 200 SSJ-100 and MC-21 aircraft by 2026. widely recognised as the market’s
Digitalisation – the introduction of the latest digital technologies – to the air- benchmark for excellence. Aeroflot
lines of Aeroflot Group is also among the Group’s strategic goals. is a regular winner of international
awards based on passenger polls.
The loyalty and high levels of satis-
faction of the airline’s passengers
were reflected at this year’s Skytrax
World Airline Awards, when Aeroflot
was named Best Airline in Eastern
Europe for the seventh time, while
users of TripAdvisor, the world’s
largest travel reviews site, named
Aeroflot’s business class service the
best in Europe.
Aeroflot’s
Triumphant Wreath
Aeroflot has become the first ever
The Best Confirmation Russian company to take the Grand
Prix at the IPRA Golden World
translated by kira tverskaya, photo provided by press office
Aeroflot has again been awarded the aviation industry”. Currently only Awards, the leading global awards
a prestigious 4-Star Airline rating 11 airlines hold the highest 5-Star for the PR industry. Aeroflot also
by Skytrax. The carrier first won the Airline rating, most of which are Asian took three category wins at this
award in 2016 and it’s recognition and Middle Eastern carriers. Aeroflot’s year’s awards. Aeroflot’s “Sulimov
of Aeroflot’s high level of customer 4-Star Airline rating from Skytrax puts Dogs” Facebook project scooped
service, in line with many of the it on par with the best European air- the awards for Travel and Tourism,
world’s premium carriers. The status lines. Another significant achievement Digital Media Relations and Commu-
was awarded by UK agency Skytrax, of 2018 is that Aeroflot has again been nity Engagement. The project was
4 the leading independent authority recognised as a Five Star Global Airline cited for its innovation and its ef-
on airline quality. Skytrax ratings are at the APEX Awards. The status, first fective use of communication tools.
considered the most authoritative in granted to Aeroflot last year, has now The IPRA Golden World Awards are
the aviation industry, and the annual been extended through 2019. Earlier organised by the International Pub-
Skytrax Airline Awards, based on the this year APEX named Aeroflot Best lic Relations Association (IPRA), the
world’s largest customer satisfaction Global Airline in Europe and awarded it leading global network for public
survey, are known as the “Oscars of for Best Seat Comfort in Europe. relations professionals.
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19
сontributors
Editor-in-Chief Alina Orlova, aorlova@in-flight.ru
Managing Editor Vasily Shomov
Art Director Oksana Radovilskaya
Designer Olga Malysheva
Executive Editor Yelena Kostyukova, ekostyukova@in-flight.ru
Editors George Nelson, Artyom Lipatov
Picture Editor Tatyana Tochilova
Translators Andrzej Bernat, Paul Friar, Alastair Gill, Alice Lagnado
Proofreader Anna Shakhnovich
Contributors
Ivan Dementievsky, Mariya Ganiyants, Yevgeniya Gershkovich, Ivan Glushkov, Vladimir Gridin,
Alexander Ilyin, Gennady Jozefavichus, Ilya Krasnov, Galina Okulova, Ignat Sakharov,
Dmitry Stakhov, Mikhail Strukov, Kira Tverskaya, Hans Winkler
Founder PJSC Aeroflot
Publisher Inflight Entertainment Group
General Director Anna Mukhametova
Publishing Director Sergei Tomash
Financial Director Liubov Kushner
Chief Editor Olga Ryzhenkova
Law Support Valentina Nikitukhina
Advertising
Commercial Director Natalia Medvedeva, nmedvedeva@in-flight.ru
Department Heads
Finance & real estate Nadezhda Zarzhetskaya, nzarzhetskaya@in-flight.ru
Beauty, fashion & luxury Irina Rozhkova, irozhkova@in-flight.ru
Cars & appliance Irina Udalova, iudalova@in-flight.ru
Beauty & restaurants Julia Rusakova, yrusakova@in-flight.ru
Fashion, jewellery, furniture Ekaterina Vlasova, evlasova@in-flight.ru
Food, appliance, pharmaceuticals Irina Krasnikova, ikrasnikova@in-flight.ru
International Corporate
International Account Manager Kristina Dzidzaria, kdzidzaria@in-flight.ru
International Business Executive Maria Alikhanova, malikhanova@in-flight.ru
Special Project Manager Oksana Artamoshina, oartamoshina@in-flight.ru
Head of pre-press of Advertising Department Maria Shaleeva
Designer of pre-press of Advertising Department Marat Satkanov
Coordinators Elvira Senina, Maria Toropina
Project Manager Yelena Dudina
PR Manager Maria Jansone
Assistant Reychel Ndumbi
Tel. +7 (495) 280-3995
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Tel. +7 (495) 280-3995
Advertising in St. Petersburg
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Tel. +7 (812) 384-4365
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Ekaterina Zhikhareva, ezhikhareva@in-flight.ru
Elena Simonova, esimonova@in-flight.ru
Olga Lapteva, olapteva@in-flight.ru
Сoordinator Yulia Kovalchuk
6 7
Cover: embroidery work by Oksana Stepanova from the Moscow costume studio Russkiye Nachala
Registration certificate for “Aeroflot magazine” mass media print publication No. FС77-68156, 21.12.2016 was issued
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December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19
content
36
Report 16
We are the world, Interview
we are the children. The long-serving
photos: lori.ru, © Folk team-studio of traditional costume russkiye nachala / Pankratova yelena,
The vast frozen director of the State
lands and people Hermitage Museum
of Russia, who hunt, in St. Petersburg
charm fire, and Mikhail Piotrovsky
Anton Taibarei , The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, provided by press offices
speak to reindeer
20
Heritage
The traditional
embroidery of Kar-
gopol, Russian folk
costume, and the
magical beauty and
serenity of Russia’s
north
24
Travel
Sergiyev Posad and
the Trinity Lavra of
St. Sergius. The holy
lands in the Moscow
Region
8 58
Gastronome
42
Art Trip
9
Best of Russia Five local chefs you may Collectors and art- Edgar Degas
Blue Dancers
Holiday scenarios you’ll only find in Russia, from the not yet know, but whose patrons who brought
Circa 1898
banya in Rostov-on-Don to ice-skating on Lake Baikal. names you̓re likely impressionism The Pushkin State
Always expect the unexpected! to hear soon to Russia Museum of Fine Arts
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19
3 Cities of federal
importance
46
Amur
Regions
Moscow Arkhangelsk
St. Petersburg Astrakhan
Sevastopol Belgorod
Bryansk
22
Adygeya
Republics
Chelyabinsk
Irkutsk
Ivanovo
Altai Kaliningrad
Bashkortostan Kaluga
Buryatia Kemerovo
Kargopol Chechnya Kirov
p. 20 Chuvashia Kostroma
Crimea Kurgan
Sergiyev Posad Daghestan Kursk
p. 24 Ingushetia Leningrad
Kabardino-Balkaria Lipetsk
Moscow Kalmykia Magadan
p. 50 Karachayevo-Circassia Moscow
Siberia Karelia Murmansk
p. 36 Khakassia Nizhny Novgorod
Komi Novgorod
Mari El Novosibirsk
Mordovia Omsk
North Ossetia — Alania Orel
Sakha (Yakutia) Orenburg
Tatarstan Penza
1
Tuva Pskov
Udmurtia Rostov
Ryazan
17
million Mobile apps 9 Territories
Sakhalin
Samara
square kilometres for your trip Altai Saratov
to Russia Kamchatka Smolensk
Wheely is a personal chauf- Khabarovsk Sverdlovsk
11 feur service with luxury Krasnodar Tambov
8
time zones cars, available in Moscow, Krasnoyarsk Tomsk
St. Petersburg, Yekaterin- Languages spoken Perm Tula
burg, Kazan, Perm, Sochi, 99.4% Russian Primorye Tver
146.5 and Krasnodar. Install the 3% Tatar Stavropol Tyumen
Graphics by Mikhail Strukov, photo: depositphotos
million app and be sure to get the 0.98% Chechen Trans-Baikal Ulyanovsk
population cleanest, smartest car with 0.83% Bashkir Vladimir
85
the most professional driver
to take you anywhere.
The Aeroflot mobile app is
5.48% English speakers
Public transport
1 Autonomous region
Jewish
Volgograd
Vologda
Voronezh
10 regions an easy way to book flights, There are metro systems Yaroslavl 11
Russia
is the world’s
largest country, 5,642
review booking details, edit
existing passenger informa-
tion, check in, and track the
in Moscow, St. Petersburg,
Kazan, Nizhny Novgorod,
Novosibirsk, Yekaterinburg,
4 Autonomous areas
Chukotka
containing about metres status of your flight. The and Samara. They are often Khanty-Mansi — Yugra
one-eighth of the highest point – app may also be used for the fastest way to get around Nenets
globe’s land. Mount Elbrus a multiple destination trip. during rush hour. Yamal-Nenets
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19
calendar calendar
Until 28 Feb
Until 16 Feb
Moscow, Russia
Italy, the Vatican GUM Ice Rink
The Russian
Way. From The GUM Skating
Dionysius to Rink on Red Square
Malevich is open for its 13th
season, the main
This is an unprec- theme of which is
edented exhibition Russian animation.
project in the Vati- Decorations featur-
can — 54 key works ing famous cartoon
of Russian art from characters adorn the
the State Tretyakov rink and fair, where
Gallery and regional the New Year and
museums will be festive spirit reigns
displayed in the supreme — with
Charlemagne Wing, music, lanterns,
the left side of the Christmas trees,
colonnade of St. flags, and treats it’s
Peter’s Cathedral. not to be missed.
The exhibition will
be set as a dialogue
of two traditions: Until 20 Dec
Old Russian art and
the art of the late Moscow, Russia
19th — early 20th New European
centuries. Theatre Festival #20
text by ILiya Krasnov, kira tverskaya. PHOTOs: The State Tretyakov Gallery, PROVIDED BY PRESS OFFICES
London, UK
Monza, Italy Russian Until 20 Jan From 21 Dec Until 16 Dec
A New Flight Peasant Life
on Solaris. Norilsk, Russia Moscow, Russia St. Petersburg,
New Trajectory The Open Collec- Alexander Viva la Vida. Russia
tion Foundation has Rodchenko Kahlo and David Bowie
The Moscow AZ launched an exhibi- and His Circle Rivera
Museum, spear- tion of Russian folk New Holland
headed by CEO art in Zima restau- Alexander Rod- The Moscow Ma- The fact that the modern Russian theatre has be- Island is hosting an
Natalia Opaleva and rant, London. The chenko — one of the nege hosts a retro- come an integral part of world theatre is largely exhibition “David
art curator Polina project introduces creators of Russian spective exhibition thanks to NET Festival (New European Theatre). Bowie. Rock’n’roll
Lobachevskaya, is the peasant art of constructivism, of triumphant Each year it brings the most relevant people and With Me” by British
holding an exhibi- the Russian north master of the Rus- Mexican artists — performances to Moscow. This year’s shows are photographer and
tion at the Monza to a broad audience: sian avant-garde, monumentalist coming from Switzerland, France, Poland, Israel, producer Jeff Mc-
Royal Palace. It spinning wheels, photographer, Diego Rivera and his Estonia, and Belgium. The main event of NET Cormack, dedicated
Until 31 Dec showcases works of Shrovetide sleds, pioneer of design, wife surrealist Frida 2018 will be a new performance by Christoph to his friendship
art by non-conform- Until 25 Dec and horse shaft visionary artist of Kahlo. Among the Marthaler titled We Take it Upon Ourselves. with Bowie. Along-
ist Russian artists, bows — soak up the many modern art works will be rare side the show will
contemporaries of heritage of the Rus- forms. The show “Russian Paintings”, be discussions, film
genius film director sian avant-garde in covers a vibrant which Rivera created screenings, and
Andrei Tarkovsky. London. period of his life. in Moscow in 1956. concerts.
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19
interview
Family
Business
The director of the State Hermitage Museum
mikhail piotrovsky talks to Aeroflot about the well-earned
right to independence and why the preoccupation with
digital technology is a threat to museums
by Мariya Ganiyants
The Hermitage is not only Russia’s main museum, We, of course, are controlled, but we have a certain
but also the most independent. It’s impossible to amount of freedom, which we have fought battles for
imagine that an exhibition there could be banned and defended. And this is the achievement of the mu-
in the same way that they shut down theatrical seum itself. When I became director, the museum had
productions, for example. been abandoned, and there was no money at all, and,
The foundation for our independence is the fact that the what is most terrible, there was talk about possibly sell-
Hermitage is a great museum. Until recently, everyone in ing off some of the exhibits. In this situation, the state
the Ministry of Culture and the government understood gave the Hermitage absolute carte blanche. Like all Rus-
this. Now, to be honest, we are having to explain things sian museums, we began to save our staff and our col-
once again. But in the 25 years that I’ve been director, no lection, sought sponsors, raised money, and learned how
official has told us what to exhibit and what not to. It’s to use it properly. And only when the museum was able
another matter that the museum’s management must to earn money independently and began to thrive with-
calculate risks. I remember when we were getting an out help from the state budget, when they saw that the
translated by alice lagnado, photo: yevgeny sinyaver/the state hermitage museum
exhibit ready by the Chapman brothers from the Young donors are happy with us and that we are accountable
British Artists group (the 2012 exhibition “Jake and Di- for every single ruble, did we start to get significant gov-
nos Chapman. End of Fun”), we took into account the ernment funding. But, as the money appeared, so peo-
possible reaction to Nazi symbols; I even wrote an entire ple who wanted to control it sprang up. Then, in 1995,
introduction about this. But the fact that a member of a government decree was issued, whereby the Hermitage
the public saw a crucified Ronald McDonald as offensive came under the auspices of the President of the Russian
to people of faith came as a surprise to all of us. Another Federation, and our funding was given a separate line in
example: in 2003, in Amsterdam, the exhibition “From the federal budget. I always said: give us patronage, and
the Hermitage with Love” opened, where various kinds I’ll grab the money myself with both hands. The reality is
of artistic erotica (collections of Japanese engravings, that only the patronage of top officials gives the museum
erotic items from the collection of Tsar Nicholas I, and the opportunity to work in peace.
much more) were shown; these exhibits are kept in Rus-
sia, but we have never shown them, since we are sure In July 2017, the Hermitage terminated a contract
16 that the domestic public is conservative and not ready with Mekhstroitrans, the contractor which was 17
for this type of art, whereas the Dutch were relaxed to build a new storage facility. The company was
about it. declared bankrupt, and you demanded a refund of
850 million rubles. Did you lose this money?
The Hermitage budget, unlike that of Russia’s Given the criminal atmosphere, this came as no surprise.
other museums, is not controlled by the Ministry of After the collapse of the Soviet Union, although they had
Culture. How did you manage to achieve this? no knowledge or experience, museums were forced to
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19interview interview
carry out building work and reconstruction. Personally, example, the Throne Room was restored using funds ager will never become a scholar, and therefore there is
I was satisfied with the Soviet approach: the State Com- collected by the Hermitage Friends’ Cllub. Museums a danger that they will not see the difference between
mittee for Construction does the construction work, and must be supported by a society’s cultural life. a real thing and its multimedia perception.
the museum signs the certificates of acceptance. But the
state system responsible for this was destroyed, and What should a modern museum be like, in your Do you monitor items that were sold from the
museums need storage and exhibition spaces. All these view? Hermitage in the early years of Soviet power?
years the Hermitage has been guided by the principle: Diverse. Maybe this is a subversive thing to say, but there Is there a chance that they may be returned?
to finish construction work before the investment flow is no such thing as modern art. It exists only in context, We follow the fate of our items closely, and up to now,
stops; we took these risks into account and always had so today it is modern, and tomorrow it’s already classic. these objects are still part of the inventory. The Her-
time to build. But on one occasion, we did not have time. The museum’s job is to explain that new things should mitage’s main losses occurred in the 1920s and 1930s:
We know where our money has gone. We have applied to not be rejected, should not be feared, one is the continu- first, they were sold at auctions, then they were sold
the prosecutor’s office, and our lawyers, in parallel with ation of the other. A good modern museum — that’s the deliberately, to important people, as bribes. More than
the investigative authorities, are looking for the thieves. Hermitage. It is capable of combining modernity with 2,000 paintings were selected to be sold from the mu-
We are hoping for the best. classical traditions, encompassing world culture from seum collection, including paintings by Titian, Jan van
the era of Catherine the Great to the nomadic biennale Eyck, and Raphael. This crime by the state stopped due
You once wanted to create a lottery, like in the UK, Manifesta. The Hermitage is a universal encyclopae- to the monumental efforts of Hermitage staff and Stalin’s
funds from which would support museums. Did you dic museum with a great mission: to transform wars intervention. Unfortunately, it is impossible to return
succeed? of memory into a dialogue of cultures. Art and culture large works, but they are all in the hands of serious peo-
It didn’t happen. Although the Russian lottery does have always been the subject of conflict: modern versus ple, and sometimes we can buy the small ones. Although
bring in huge sums of money, the efforts of the cultural classical, east versus west, graphic versus non-pictorial, when Viktor Vekselberg bought some Fabergé eggs, we
community were not enough to break into this scheme. ours is better, yours is worse... A good museum creates started to hope. We also have treasures that were taken
an atmosphere in which confrontation is transformed from Germany as part of restitution efforts: items from
How is the budget of the Hermitage drawn up today? into dialogue. the Merovingian, Bronze, and Iron Ages. They are all in
The annual budget is approximately five billion rubles. circulation, and are constantly being shown at exhibi-
Fifty-six percent is subsidies from the federal budget, In this case, what should a museum not be like? tions, so it would be a sin to take them and hide them
and the rest we earn ourselves. Most of our income is I’ll tell you: it should not be purely multimedia. It is cer- away. And since these things are available to visitors and
from the sale of tickets, rights to images, catalogues, and tainly possible to demonstrate projections of Van Gogh’s scholars, it is not so important where they are stored.
other printed products. The rest comes from charity and paintings, but this has nothing to do with a museum, The same goes for the Hermitage items. You’re crying,
income from endowments. I am glad that endowment it’s just an entertainment and educational project. Of but you understand that the National Gallery of Art in
funds have been allowed in Russia. The endowment is course, we need to have the latest technology, but only Washington, where 21 masterpieces from the Hermitage
a great thing. In my opinion, this is the most correct to help us to understand, to highlight the essence of the are stored, is not the worst place on Earth.
form of financing for culture. Income and expenditures true thing in which the energy of its creator lives. Here
are completely transparent. Many museums in the US lies a fragment, and in it is not only the power of history, You took over leadership of the museum after
live almost exclusively on endowments. Ours was one but also thousands of meanings, which can be interest- It’s a matter of linguistics. In Russia, the word “curator” the death of its director, your father. Did you
of the first in Russia to have them. It happened thanks ingly shown with the help of multimedia — but funda- should not be used because of its Communist-era origin. have a choice?
to an initiative by Vladimir Potanin. Today, all dona- mentally, you always need the real item. Even the digital Three decades ago, the exhibitions had no initiators at I did not intend to work in the Hermitage, but when my
tions to the Hermitage go to the endowment fund. This catalogue in the museum is just an assistant, whereas all all, they were not specifically mentioned, and then sud- father, who had run the museum for more than a quarter
money was used to make several acquisitions: for exam- the real items in the collection are registered in real re- denly there were these curators who would steal the of a century, died, I was summoned, and I agreed. Then
ple, two albums from Prince Wittgenstein’s family meet- cord books, some of which were written using a goose show. Today there is a widespread view that the curator it seemed to me that I had made my choice, but maybe
photo: yevgeny sinyaver/the state hermitage museum
ing, which include portraits of many aristocratic fami- feather quill, and are culturally valuable in themselves. is the creator, in the sense that he creates a new thing everything was predetermined. I grew up in the Hermit-
lies from Pushkin’s time. And recently Anselm Kiefer’s Nothing lends itself to forgery as easily as digital infor- in art, something that was not there before. Or, more age, I knew three or four generations of Hermitage peo-
masterpiece Aurora was added to the museum’s collec- mation. And there is nothing more reliable than a hand- than that, that the curator creates the artist. This, in my ple personally, although, as a person from outside, I was
tion — it was bought cheaper than the market price; one written document. opinion, is wrong. The artist should come first, and the not involved in the internal machinations. I think that it
third of the funds was given by the endowment, and the person who creates the exhibition is a co-author. was this combination which pleased fate.
rest came from Potanin’s Foundation. Another impor- Today the curator often becomes more important
18 tant source is crowdfunding, targeted fundraising. For than the artist. What’s your view on this? Who should be director of a major museum — You are the second representative of a surname 19
an academic or an effective manager? under which the museum has been run for more
The European museum tradition means that academics than half a century. What has the Hermitage given
are chosen as directors, while in America they choose the Piotrovsky father and son?
A good museum creates an atmosphere in which managers. I feel closer to the European approach. The
museum should be headed by a scholar, who may well be
I think the Piotrovsky family saved the museum from
many changes that would have been absolutely devas-
confrontation is transformed into dialogue a good manager. But someone who is just a good man- tating for it.
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19heritage heritage
time appeared to pass more slowly,
and the past, it seemed, had come
On 13 February 1903 in St. Peters- back to life. And for Bilibin and his trees are enormous, and soar into
Embroidery work
by Yuliya Kozlova, burg’s Winter Palace, Nicholas II colleagues, it was the town of Kar- the sky. The roads are bad. There are
Russkiye Nachala gave a costume ball to mark the gopol and its surroundings that was many swampy places, and then they
290th anniversary of the House of to serve as a school of the folk arts. are covered with a gat’ — slender
Romanov. The tsar himself, the em- crosswise logs set across the breadth
press, members of the royal family, A Demanding Journey of the road, laid tightly up against
and almost 400 people attended in “The villages, settlements, and towns each other. You can’t cover more
opulent clothes in the style of the are situated along the rivers, like than three versts in an hour in a car-
16th and 17th centuries, specially beads on strands, and between one riage over a gat’ and it shakes be-
designed for the occasion. Kaftans, strand and its neighbour there is yond belief,” recalled Bilibin, who got
sarafans (long traditional dresses), dense forest. Sometimes you have through to Kargopol only with great
fine embroidered shirts, kokoshnik to travel 100 kilometres through the difficulty. Nowadays it is of course
headdresses studded with pearls, forest from one river to another. The easier to reach the town: 16 hours by
hats edged in sable, heavy brocade, train from St. Petersburg, followed
precious stones, golden thread- by 80 kilometres by taxi or bus:
work — it seemed that the clock had a relatively short journey by Russian
been turned back. The fashion of standards.
the so-called “Russian” style began The small town of Kargopol was
in the late 1880s in clothes, applied founded in 1146. According to one
design, architecture, in paintings theory, its name is of Finnish origin
and book illustrations. The trend (Karhu Puoli, meaning “Bear Side”),
marked a turn back to the heritage while another claims the name
of Russia from the times before its means “Crow Field”. Trade soon be-
homegrown aesthetic culture col- gan to flourish here: timber, fur, iron
translated by alastair gill, photos: © Folk team-studio of traditional costume Russkiye nachala / Yuliya kozlova
lided with Peter the Great’s desire to ore, salt, and fish brought the town
make the country a European power. wealth, and splendid stone churches
Individual enthusiasts began to col- with elegant cupolas sprang up here
lect surviving examples from villag- one after another. Today’s town is not
es and church vestries, put together that different from the one that Bili-
collections, displayed them in pri- Ivan Bilibin’s illustration bin would have seen. The same words
vate museums and even transported for Vasilisa the Beautiful echo in the services of the 300-year-
them abroad for exhibitions. old churches, and winter brings the
A year before the ball, in 1902, by same bitter frosts of below minus
decree of Nicholas II, a special eth- 40 degrees Celsius. However, this
Northern
nographic department was created does not dissuade neither the trav-
at the Russian Museum to study folk “For any Russian ellers, nor artists, who come here to
culture. The first field trip was des-
patched for this purpose straight
historical artist paint en plein air: for a base they use
the nearby settlement of Oshevensk,
a first-hand
Threads
away; the goal of the expedition which in reality is a cluster of villages.
was the Russian North. The group acquaintance
Northern Exposure
included a 27-year-old student of
the St. Petersburg Academy of Arts with the North “Reproductions of architectural
painter Ivan Bilibin. Here, in the im- is of immense monuments in collections and
what do circles on a red background mean
and what kind of pattern should you embroider
penetrable forests, on the banks of
wide rivers, and by the cliffs of the
importance, it magazines, costumes and utensils,
piled up in museums — these are
20 if you want to get married? To find the answers, White Sea, cut off from civilisation, is the principal dead material, which can only be 21
you need to visit the northern town of Kargopol, site of special
home of Russia’s most unusual embroidery,
which to this day fascinates experts artistic
by Galina Okulova
education”
Ivan Bilibin
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19heritage heritage
that. If it’s a skirt, then it will have the whole pava served in the Rus-
trimming 65 centimetres wide, if it’s sian language as a general term for
brought to life when the artist sees a man’s shirt it will be decorated on A girl would receive her first spin- from their mothers and grandmoth- a fairytale bird and a compliment inclined not to anatomical accuracy,
with their own eyes how these an- the hem, the sleeves, placket, and ning wheel, and from seven to nine- ers. One of the most beautiful and given to a beautiful woman: mag- but to convention, to jokes.”
cient log churches cling to the banks collar, and it takes 600 hours of year-old would take her first steps most ancient was rospis’ (which in nificent, stately, with an unhurried,
of the northern rivers, how wooden painstaking work by hand to make in weaving: from simple ribbon Russian means “painting”), which majestic gait. Russia’s Answer to Vogue
utensils are arranged in a spacious a modern copy of a shirt like this,” belts on a board (just like teenagers genuinely resembles the strict style “There was even a saying: ‘Pava By the beginning of the 21st century
northern houses and how the elegant Valkova says. all over the world weave bracelets of northern wood painting: it is you won’t sew, to the altar you won’t it seemed that this quiet, domestic,
village women dress up in their tra- on a pin), to the first embroideries. both geometric and light. “We call go’,” says the researcher. “However, modest, and laborious art form was
ditional outfits. Was this a beautiful Sewing the Seeds of Love From coarse canvas she would pro- it higher mathematics for women,” the embroiderers often named this fated to vanish into oblivion. But
costume? It was magnificent. Beauty The Kargopol costumes were not gress to thin, almost transparent explains Valkova. “You need to keep pattern not after peacocks but after interest in traditional dress grows
can be found in movement and in se- only a vivid demonstration of fabric, from crude diamonds and count of the canvas threads and chickens. Indeed, on the whole there in spirals: just as it did in the time
renity. The Russian costume is one a craftswoman’s talent — they were birds to finely rendered female fig- stitches all the time, without passing is always a place for humour in Kar- of Nicholas II, now it is also inspir-
of serenity,” Bilibin wrote. He went essentially her pass into adulthood. ures, trees, and deer. the same place twice, and the result gopol embroidery, its patterns are ing artists, academics and those
on to produce the costume sketches It was extremely important to is a completely two-sided embroi- who are interested in folk culture.
for the production of the opera Boris begin early for one simple reason. dery, where the inner side fully re- Men and women of various ages
Godunov with Feodor Chaliapin in This was not so much about idleness peats the outer.” and occupations come to Russkiye
1908, which was a sensation in Par- being considered a sin and in peas- The second of these techniques Nachala to study embroidery. They
is and set Diaghilev and the Ballets ant families everyone worked, but is nabor, in which it seems as if say the chief aim of these classes for
Russes on the road to fame. because all this time a girl would be the patterns have been woven on them is a search for identity, a re-
Kargopol was a real treasure trove working for her future. She would a loom, and the inner becomes turn to historic roots. “The north
for costume researchers, and still is be creating with her own hands a negative image of the outer side. remains our favourite topic, and
today. Perhaps this is also because a dowry for her wedding, which was Rospis’ and nabor and their archaic in this time we’ve managed to dis-
when, at the end of the 19th century, the initiation into womanhood, the patterns are comparable to those of cover a lot about this embroidery
the new railway was built, it bypassed transition from one family to anoth- antiquity: crosses and diamonds, ba- from the old ladies there,” says
Embroidery work Embroidery work
the town, leaving it 80 kilometres by Yelena Pankratova, er and essentially the central event sic female figures, horses and deer, by Olga Klimova, Valkova. “And then the reverse situ-
away, forming a kind of open-air mu- Russkiye Nachala in her destiny. Meanwhile, the older fir trees and flowering shrubs. Russkiye Nachala ation happened: We, Muscovites,
seum of folk culture. women, friends, and neighbours, But at the end of the 19th cen- returned the tradition to its historic
“In the mid-20th century another would observe her progress, her as- tury, when fine, bright fabrics had homeland.”
ethnographic expedition came here, siduousness, her accuracy, and her reached even the most remote Where, it appears, it has taken
this time Soviet,” says researcher and talent, building a reputation for her of northern villages, the master root once again. This September the
the head of the Moscow costume stu- on the marriage market. craftswomen of Kargopol launched Italian edition of Vogue published
dio Russkiye Nachala (Russian Roots) Painted wooden trunks would a minor revolution in needlework. a photo shoot from the Arkhangelsk
Tatyana Valkova. Together with her be used to store embroidered tow- Alongside rospis’ and nabor they Region, in which Gucci and Balen-
colleagues, she oversees everything els (no fewer than a dozen of these began to use the tambur technique, ciaga showed off their new collec-
to do with traditional textiles at would be made), women’s and men’s in which the pattern is formed from tions against a background of time-
the Likhatchev Russian Research shirts, pinafores, skirts, sarafans, interlocking loops, allowing the line silvered wooden churches, old buses
Institute for Cultural and Natu- headscarves and shawls, embroi- to be made smooth and whimsical, and the muted natural landscapes of
photos: Kargopol State Museum of History, Architecture and Art
ral Heritage. “And the astonished dered mittens, girls’ headdresses — like animal tracks in the snow. This the north.
researchers dubbed Kargopol the until she married, a girl would keep embroidery looks finest of all when In response, local residents be-
treasure-trove of Russian embroi- her head uncovered and plait her it is executed in white and coloured gan to post photos of themselves
dery. In Russia almost every region hair into a single braid, decorating threads on red calico. Especially in sarafans and shirts on Instagram
has its own embroidery technique, it with ribbons, sashes, smart bows, beautiful are the complex embroi- under the hashtag “our answer to
but for some unfathomable reason and tassels. dered rosettes so typical of Kargopol Vogue”. There’s no arguing when it
the Kargopol district is the only place (some scholars see in them archaic comes to taste, but it appears that
in the country where there is a large Complex Equations menological calendars) and pava far more handwork and heart has
number of them in use, and astonish- The girls of Kargopol learnt several birds. Strictly speaking, this word been invested in the outfits worn by
22 ingly beautiful and laborious ones at different embroidery techniques denotes a female peacock, but on these folk models. 23
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19travel travel
Holy Land
Christmas holidays are the best times for a relaxed
trip around the Moscow Region, given its richness
in stunning landscapes and historical architecture.
If you’re headed for Sergiyev Posad and the Trinity
Lavra of St. Sergius, then there are plenty
of fascinating stops on along the way
text by Yevgeniya Gershkovich, translated by alice lagnado,
Photo: Natalya Sidorova / Lori.ru
24 25
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19travel travel
Mayakovsky
produced
a diverse body
of work: he wrote
poems, wrote and
directed plays,
appeared in films,
edited an art
magazine, and
created posters
and advertising
campaigns
Church of the Annunciation Church of the Annunciation of the Blessed Vir- 2013 the house was restored on its old foun- furniture in the Russian style, which had come One of several
Taininskoe village, Mytishchi gin Mary, consecrated in 1677 during Tsar Feo- dation and turned into a museum. The walls into fashion and was popular in the big capi- workshops
constructed in
dor III’s rule. The main feature of this unique were painted white, and the area where the tal cities. Mamontov invited artists such as Abramtsevo in
The village of Taininskoe’s historical legacy is example of Russian architecture, constructed poet worked recreated. Avant-garde posters by Ilya Repin, Vasily Polenov, and Mikhail Vrubel the traditional
that it was a stopover for Russian princes who in the style known as “wondrous patterns” and Mayakovsky and installations by contempo- to Abramtsevo. Mamontov’s daughter, Vera, style of wooden
made pilgrimages to the Trinity Lavra of St. topped with a number of kokoshniki (a type of rary artists adorn the veranda. posed here for Valentin Serov’s famous paint- Russian
architecture
Sergius Monastery, as well as to Taininskoe Pal- semicircular arch), is its unmatched western ing Girl with Peaches. Viktor Vasnetsov paint-
ace, built under Ivan the Terrible, who escaped porch, with its symmetrical staircases. The Abramtsevo State Historical, ed the oak trees in Abramtsevo as he worked
here during difficult periods of his life. Boris Artistic, and Literary Museum on his painting The Bogatyrs (The Heroes).
Godunov, the 16th century tsar, fed his entou- Vladimir Mayakovsky and Estate He also built a hut on chicken legs for chil-
rage in the palace. False Dmitry II, a pretender House Museum Abramtsevo village, Khotkovo dren, the home of the terrifying Slavic witch
to the Russian throne who claimed to be Ivan Akulova Gora, Pushkino Baba Yaga. In 1882 the Abramtsevo artists also
the Terrible’s son, set up his headquarters here. Abramtsevo owes its existence to the energy built a church with one dome, modelled on the
Here, too, Catherine the Great liked to cele- In June 1920, the poet Vladimir Mayakovsky and creativity of the famous Savva Mamontov, 12th century Novgorod Church of the Saviour
brate her birthday. The only building that has was visiting friends in the village of Akulova a Russian entrepreneur from an old merchant at Nereditsa, one of Russia’s oldest temples,
Photos: Natalya Volkova/Lori.ru, provided by press offices
been preserved here is the five-domed stone Gora, one of the most picturesque summer family, who was called Savva the Magnificent and named after the Icon of Christ of Edessa.
residences in Pushkino, a city 30 kilome- by his peers after the Florentine ruler Lorenzo
tres northeast of Moscow. Once upon a time, Medici, also known as Lorenzo il Magnifico.
a spellbinding view of the water meadows and In 1870, a merchant purchased a dilapidated
the valley of the Ucha river opened up here. manor house and its furnishing from writer
Constructed in This was where the fervent futurist worked Sergei Aksakov’s daughter. Abramtsevo be-
the 17th century, on his poetry and lyrical verses. In the 1930s, came a centre of artistic endeavour and an
the Church of
26 the village was flooded with the waters of the artists’ colony, where the spirit of creativity 27
the Annunciation The small red
of the Blessed Uchinsky reservoir, which became part of the reigned. Everyone who came here had a talent: drawing room
Virgin Mary Moscow Canal, and the house where Mayako- they all drew and wrote in the open air, sculpt- of Abramtsevo
is a unique vsky spent four summers was transported to ed, played music, staged performances, and Estate once
example of hosted artists
the neighbouring Novaya Derevnya (New Vil- made forays into the surrounding villages in
complex patterns Ilya Repin, Vasily
in religious lage). It burned down in the 1990s, but thanks search of new experiences and antiquities. In Polenov, and
architecture to the efforts of a priest, Andrei Dudarev, in the workshop, artists started to make carved Mikhail Vrubel
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19travel travel
Radonezh
The village on a hill near the
banks of the Pazha River
was founded by Slavic tribes
around the 11th century. In the
1340s, a boyar, Kirill, moved
here from impoverished lands
around Rostov, along with his
12-year-old son Bartholomew,
later to become St. Sergius
of Radonezh. Mikhail Neste
rov’s painting The Vision of
the Youth Bartholomew tells
the story of how the future
saint meets a monk with the
appearance of an angel under
an oak tree. The boy, who
cannot read, asks the monk
to show him how to under-
stand the Holy Scriptures and
receives the monk’s blessing
and help. After the death of
his parents, Bartholomew
The Muranovo The Tyutchev Museum and Estate distributes his inheritance to portant monastery in Russia and the centre of Gallery in Moscow. On the orders of Ivan the The Church of
Museum-Reserve Muranovo village, Ashukino the poor. He retires into the Orthodoxy. Patriarch Philotheus of Constan- Terrible, the five-domed Assumption Cathe- the Descent
Photos: Baturina Yuliya/Lori.ru, Natalya Volkova/Lori.ru, State Tretyakov Gallery, provided by the press office
is a noble of the Holy Spirit
forest, builds a modest hut tinople then sent Sergius a monastic charter. dral (1559–85) was built in the centre of the
manor built on the Apostles
in the 19th For more than a century, this rare example of there, and dedicates himself There, in 1392, the saint died. monastery. is the oldest
century. The a Russian country manor stood on a gentle hill to intense prayer. St. Sergius Leading Russian architects left their stamp Northeast of the Trinity Cathedral is the example of
historic building that descends to the dam of the Talitsa River. of Radonezh went down in on the monastery’s ensemble of buildings, Church of the Descent of the Holy Spirit on a Russian church
is located topped with
50 kilometres
The village of Muranovo, first documented in history as the founder of the now a protected UNESCO site. Today there the Apostles (1476–7), built by craftsmen from a bell-tower
from Moscow 1645, consisted of two or three courtyards. Its Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius, are more than 10 churches in the monastery. Pskov who were invited to Moscow by Ivan III.
literary life and owners, including the 19th cen- and blessed Dmitry Donskoi The cathedral square boasts an 88-metre four- This is the oldest example of a Russian church
tury poet and diplomat Fyodor Tyutchev, before the Battle of Kulikovo tiered bell tower (1741–68), making it 11 metres “under the bells”, or topped with a bell-tower.
brought the estate fame. Tyutchev himself in 1380 (between the Golden taller than the belfry of the Novodevichy Con- Thanks to the multicoloured geometric pat-
didn’t visit Muranovo, but his son Ivan became Hordes and Russian princes). vent in Moscow and six metres higher than the tern, skilfully carved white-stone columns and
the last inhabitant of the estate, and thanks St. Sergius of Radonezh had Ivan the Great Bell Tower in the Kremlin. a belt of sculpted shells, the Refectory Church
to him, the heritage of the great poet lives on the gift of healing and insight. The first stone structure of the monastery, (1686–92) is palatial. It is thought to be one of
here. The atmosphere of Tyutchev’s St. Peters- the single-domed Trinity Cathedral (1422–3), the most beautiful structures within the archi-
burg has been transported to the house: a desk, is the oldest surviving building here, an exam- tectural ensemble of the Lavra.
a lamp with a green lampshade, a quill pen, ple of early Moscow architecture.
and candles. A bed was taken from the town of The main cathedral is notable for its ascetic
Tsarskoye Selo, home to the Russian tsars and beauty and austere decor. In the southern part
visiting nobility, near St. Petersburg. The mu- of the cathedral, according to the Byzantine
seum opened in 1920. tradition, in front of the altar in the sanctum,
are the relics of St. Sergius of Radonezh, his The icons and
frescoes of
28 The Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius schema (vestments) and staff. 29
Trinity Cathedral
Sergiyev Posad The icons and frescoes of the Trinity Cathe- were made
dral were made in 1425–7, by a group of art- by a group of
In 1337, the future St. Sergius of Radonezh ists under the leadership of the icon painters artists under the
leadership of
settled on Makovets Hill near Khotkovo. This Andrei Rublyov and Daniil Chyorny. Rublyov’s
Mikhail Nesterov Andrei Rublyov
event is considered to be the founding date of The Vision of the Youth Bartholomew The Trinity is the world’s most famous Rus- and Daniil
the Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius, the most im- 1890 sian icon; it is now kept in the State Tretyakov Chyorny
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19best of russia best of russia
Jingle
Bells
Christmas and New Year in Russia
can be celebrated twice — in the
old and new style. And yet another
novelty: they can be celebrated in
eleven time zones and five climate
zones. this means that whatever
approach you choose, your trip to
Russia in the winter will certainly
be memorable
by Ilya Krasnov
The Ritz-Carlton,
Moscow
Moscow
The components of a perfect,
Russian-style holiday: champagne,
caviar, Russian salad, chiming bells,
translated by andrzej bernat, photo provided by the press office
and New Year firework. The Ritz-
Carlton, Moscow offers guests all
the attributes of a Russian holiday
with elegance and refinement, as
well as luxurious Christmas decora-
tions. From the O2 Lounge, the
hotel offers fantastic views of the
city centre, and the festive fire-
works can be seen from the terrace.
The famous GUM Skating Rink by
the Kremlin is only two minutes
30 away. During holidays, traffic in the 31
city centre is limited, and Tvers-
kaya Street becomes an enormous
5
course dinner and
Christmas promenade. You can also
shop around for gifts, but a gala
an open bar, what dinner at The Ritz-Carlton is a gift
more do you need
for NYE? in itself.
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19best of russia best of russia
1,220
acres of land, enough
space to walk off
Christmas lunch
Take
a troika ride
through the snow
in St. Petersburg.
A troika is a sled
pulled by
3
horses
Hotel Astoria Utkino Country House
St. Petersburg Rostov Region
The historical Astoria Hotel in St. Petersburg is completely unique, after all, Crimean Breeze The Russian banya (steam room) is one of many ways to understand the mys-
everything interesting, amazing, and attractive that can be found in the city is Yalta terious Russian soul. The banya is a mystical place of physical and spiritual
located nearby. St. Isaac’s Cathedral, Palace Square, and the Mariinsky Theatre cleansing. It heals and warms. It’s not only songs and films that are dedicated
are all directly across the street. Incidentally, attending the Nutcracker ballet If conquering mountain ranges, ice- to it, but also hotels, like the Utkino Country House in the Rostov Region. In Park Inn
during the New Year’s holidays is another meaningful Russian tradition. One of hole fishing, and other fun activities the hotel, recognised by GQ magazine as “The best Russian hotel to rest in”, by Radisson
the best productions is at the Mariinsky Theatre, and the concierge really can are not among your priorities, and there is a Russian banya with an ice-cold pool, a herbal steam room, ham- Poliarnie Zori
get box tickets for 31 December. But St. Petersburg isn’t only the cultural, but you prefer to chill in comfortable mam, and a team of professional bath attendants, which are just the tip of the Murmansk
also the gastronomic capital of Russia: allow the magicians at Astoria to make conditions, turn your attention to iceberg. The banya is so good, that many guests don’t have time to visit the
reservations at the best restaurants on Rubinstein Street. If not, you can always the Black Sea. The holiday season equestrian club, or attend target shooting classes, or hunt, or play billiards, so Real travellers can be divided into
dine at the signature Astoria restaurant. in the boutique Crimean Breeze is they have to come back again. For the holiday season, Utkino Country House two groups: explorers of southern
usually quiet, calm, and beautiful, has developed a special gastronomic and spa menu. expanses, and explorers of northern
in true Tuscan style. Pine, rosemary lands. And for those who prefer the
fields, and open spaces. Crimea’s north, the cold, the snow, and polar
wineries are nearby, while the bears, the harsh beauty of the north
unique nature of the southern coast is the only remedy. Murmansk
photos provided by press offices, ivan Dementievsky
is spellbinding. There are a num- awaits these very travellers for the
ber of signature restaurants just a New Year — the largest city in the
stone’s throw away boasting local world located above the Arctic Cir-
cuisine, not to mention a world- cle. Choose Park Inn Poliarnie Zori
class spa centre on site. Simple by Radisson as your base, which
pleasures here can be taken for offers a panoramic view of Kola Bay.
32
Like in Cannes,
there are granted, which is not all that bad. So 2005 Instead of holiday shopping and 33
2,250 a quiet New Year by the sea could
be one of the best ways to spend the
the Kola Bay Bridge,
the longest bridge
idleness, a rich programme awaits
you: the settlement of Teriberka,
solar hours per year north of the Arctic
in Yalta holidays. Circle, was built in Lovozero, dog-drawn sledges, Sami
Murmansk
villages, Khibiny mountains, and
the full-sky illumination of the
Northern Lights.
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19best of russia best of russia
Baikal Residence
Lake Baikal
Baikal is the soul of Siberia. The lake is so large that the locals honour it by
addressing it as a sea. In the winter, it freezes over and becomes a flat mirror
Rosa Chalet
of transparent and spellbinding ice — you won’t see anything like it anywhere
is located Celebrate else in the world. Beginning the New Year on skates on Baikal is a tempting
1,200 Christmas prospect for both beginners and short-track specialists. The Baikal Residence
metres above
sea level
7 eco-hotel, located at the northern part of the lake, between the Baikal and Bar-
guzinsky ranges, offers travellers all possible winter activities: safari drifting
hours earlier than
Muscovites on quad bikes on the water’s ice, expeditions by jeep to the thermal springs,
a snow park, and a trip in a hot air balloon, as well as skis, sledges, and skates.
You can warm up in Russian steam room, or by the fireplace in one of the cosy
residences.
Rosa Chalet Lotte Hotel
Sochi Vladivostok
Vladivostok
Advertising brochures from the
Azimut Hotel Suzdal early 20th century urged travellers Vladivostok is located at the same
Suzdal to abandon the French Riviera in latitude as Sochi. It’s a special self-
favour of Black Sea resorts: offering respecting city of courageous navi-
Cities in the Golden Ring have been particularly successful at recreating the the same mountains, pines, and mild gators and brave captains. Central
life and customs of pre-revolutionary Russia. Life there is unrushed, with winter climate. Contemporary hotels Russia envies Vladivostok’s diet: sea-
high snowdrifts, while festive bells reverberate far into the distance. Suzdal in Sochi are the avant-garde of Rus- urchin caviar, crab, sturgeon caviar,
is like a revived postcard, which occupies a special place on this list, largely sia’s travel industry, in terms of in- and sea cucumbers. Vladivostok
thanks to the recently opened Azimut Hotel. The rooms are fashioned like vestments, service, amenities, views, is proud to be the capital of the
cottages, with a lot of wooden, natural materials. After participating in all and weather, they offer the best of maritime region, and the gateway
the festivities, with round dances, songs, and fun in the snow, you will most everything. The Rosa Chalet — lo- to the Pacific Ocean. The incred-
certainly be offered an authentic samovar and homemade jam. It won’t be cated on the grounds of the Rosa ibly beautiful nature coexists with
long before you feel truly Russian. Khutor winter resort — could very human genius: new construction
well be a reminder to the inhabitants inspires pride, the old — nostalgia.
of the Alps, of what a contemporary Having decided to spend the holiday
chalet should look like. There’s the season in Vladivostok, travellers
The lake is
ski-in/ski-out boarding format, min- will, firstly, have direct access to surrounded by
mountains and has
imalist interiors, natural materials, the best seafood in the country, and
choice cuisine, hundreds of Santa secondly, they will celebrate the New 27
Clauses, Snow Maidens, and other Year before most people in Russia. islands
photos provided by press offices
fairy tale characters taking part in Vladivostok is seven hours ahead
34 the New Year’s slalom. If there is too of Moscow. Plans can easily change, 35
much snow, one can always descend especially when it’s so easy to reach
Suzdal has to the sea, with palm trees and the Asia and the more extreme parts of
11 high life of Sochi. Russia from this city — make sure
to go with an open itinerary and an
wooden cultural
heritage buildings empty stomach, the food really is
that good.
December ʼ18 | January ʼ19 December ʼ18 | January ʼ19You can also read
