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                Rio For
                Partiers
Sunset outside Azul Marinho restaurant
                                         Rio For Partiers
Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers
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    2010 © Copyright Editora Solcat Ltda,
                                                                The SolCat Team

                                                                                                                                   Rio For
    First Published 2003 - All rights reserved
    - Editora Solcat Ltda.

    Photography: João Penoni e Cristiano Nogueira,
    Ricardo Zerrener, RioTur, Agencia Globo et al.

    No part of this publication may be reproduced,                                                    Rodrigo Mussolino
                                                                Cristiano Nogueira
    stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any

                                                                                                                                   Partiers
    form or by any means electronic, mechanical or       Editor, writer and design director                Finance
    otherwise, without permission of the copyright
    holder.
    The products, trademarks, logos and proprietary
    shapes used in this book are copyrighted or
    otherwise protected by legislation and can not be
    reproduced without the permission of the holder            Gabriela Alcoforado
    of the rights.                                                  Marketing                          Ronaldo Alperin
                                                                                                         Researcher
    ISBN 978-85-89992-05-3
                                                                                                                                           by Cristiano Nogueira
    The editors of the book did their best to offer
    information that was up to date at the time
    of printing. However, some data is subject
    to change and the editors cannot accept                                                             Derwl-Derwl
    responsibility for changes that have occurred                Alexandre Klayn
                                                                                              Company dog and chief order barker
    since the book’s printing.                                 Marketing assistant

    Readers interested in sending their suggestions,     Aviso:
    ideas or complaints can do so via email at
    cris@rioforpartiers.com or by writing to our         Para criticar esse livro, você precisa de senso de humor e um
    postal address:                                      bom conhecimento do idioma inglês. Ler sem saber inglês se
    Solcat Editora                                       chama “ignorância prepotente”. Criticar esse livro somente
    Rua Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 1183 sl              lendo partes dele é tirar fora de contexto, crime contra a razão.
    1001, Copacabana CEP 22070-011 Brazil                “Ler” somente as fotos é coisa de analfabeto.
    tel:21-2523-9857 USA: 1-312 238-8998
    www.rioforpartiers.com                               Missing:
    cris@rioforpartiers.com                              Marina Macacchero- Map designer, João Penoni-Photographer.
                                                         Luis F. Nunes - research assistant, Pauline Harris, Marcelo
    Part of “For Partiers” series of guides. Published
    and printed in Brazil by Editora Solcat Ltda.
                                                         Castro, Priscilla Goslin - proof reader
    Eighth Edition.                                      Contributing Writers
    Nogueira, Cristiano
                                                         Phil Smith: Business in Brazil & Brazilian Pride; Dan
    Rio For Partiers / by Cristiano Nogueira ;           Littauner: Gay Rio.
    [photography João Penoni and author]. -- Rio
    de Janeiro :
                                                         Photo Credits
    Solcat Editora, 2009. -- (For partiers)              João Penoni, Cristiano Nogueira, Dan Littauner, Agência
                                                         Globo, Ricardo Zerrenner (RZ) (www.zerrenner.fot.br),                       Check our site for updates
                                                         Biblioteca Nacional, Riotur, Iko Olivier (IK): opetit@gmail.
    1. Rio de Janeiro (RJ) - Descrição e viagens
    - Guias
                                                         com Ernani Bezerra(ER), Churrascaria Porcão (PC), Sam                     www.rioforpartiers.com/guide
    I. Penoni, João. II. Título. II. Série               Stearman (SS): Sam’s Exotic Travel Photos - www.samsays.
                                                         com, David Rice (DR), Amy Sastro (AS), Preston Grant (PG):                and up-to-date party calendar:
                                                         www.prestongrant.com; Richard Langsfel (RL), Christina
    03-5742                       CDD-918.153
                                                         Sawicky (CS) sports instructors and Secretarias de Turismo of
                                                         their respective states.
                                                                                                                                   www.rioforpartiers.com/blog
                                                                                                                                        (both Smartphone ready)
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                                     Contents
               Before Coming                         —6     Relax: Lagoa & Botanical Gardens      —51
                                                                                                          Nightlife                       —91 Great destinations
                                                             Relax: Helicopter Tour of Rio         —53
               City of Rio at a Glance
               10 Rio Commandments
                                                       —7
                                                       —8
                                                             Relax: “Do-It-All” 1 Day Tour         —54
                                                                                                          Sounds From Brazil
                                                                                                          Yearly Events
                                                                                                                                            —91
                                                                                                                                            —96
                                                                                                                                                Close to rio   —160
                                                             Car & Bike Tour                       —54                                             Búzios                               —162
                                                                                                          Rio Nightlife                     —105
                                                             Relax: Rio Coast Boat Party           —56                                             Ilha Grande                          —164
               Where to Stay                          —9                                                 After-hour foods & motels         —124
                                                                                                                                                    Petrópolis & Itaipava                —166
               Ipanema                                —10
               Copacabana South                       —12
                                                             Adventure Sports                      —57   Gay Rio                          —126
                                                                                                                                                    Paraty                               —168
                                                             Hang Gliding & Paragliding            —58                                             Luxury & Honeymoon          Trip Ideas —170
               Copacabana North                       —14
                                                             Atlantic Ocean Fishing                —60                                             Brazil at a Glance                   —173
               Around Rio                             —16                                                Dating in Rio                    —134    Salvador                             —174
                                                             Off Road Biking & Bike Tour           —62
               What to bring                          —18
                                                             Sugar Loaf & Gavea Hiking Tour        —64                                             Pantanal                             —176
               Rio Stats and Keys
               Brazilian Pride
                                                       —20
                                                       —22
                                                             Surfing                               —66   Brazilian food                  —139     Bonito                               —178
                                                             Bodyboarding                          —67   Popular Lunch Dishes              —140   Natal                                —180
               General Tips                           —24
                                                                                                          Traditional Brazilian Cuisine     —143   Amazon                               —182
               Emergencies                            —26
                                                                                                                                                    Foz do Iguassu                       —184
               Fashion Crimes                         —27   Cultural                              —69   World Food                        —145
                                                             Cultural: Tour of a Favela            —72   Trendy Brazilian Cuisine          —146
               Safety tips                            —28
                                                             Cultural: Big Dude Tour               —73   All the stuff you gotta try       —149
               Things You’ll Need to Get              —30
                                                             Cultural: Santa Teresa Tour           —74   Street Foods and Snacks           —150
               What to Do at the Beach                —33
               What’s the deal with...?               —35   Silly Pastimes                        —75   Bar foods                         —152
                                                                                                                                                    After visiting rio—186
                                                             Giving Back                           —76   Desserts                          —153
               Getting Around                         —36                                                                                          How to cook Muqueca                  —187
                                                                                                          Stuff you never ate               —154
                                                                                                                                                    Ready For Export Brazilian Phrases   —188
                                                                                                          Everything you should drink       —156
                                                             Rainy Day Options                     —79                                             Ready For Export Brazilian Ideas     —189
                                                                                                          Fruits and Juices                 —158
                                                             What to do in Rio when it’s Raining   —80                                             Doing Business in Brazil             —190
                                                             The Tasty Ipanema Leblon Pub Crawl    —82                                             How to Pay Less Than Locals          —192
               Day Tours                             —39    The Legacy Copacabana Pub Crawl       —85
               Relax: Ipanema                         —40
                                                             Shop: Gift Ideas & Hidden Treasures   —87
               Relax: Pão de Açúcar & Schooner        —42
                                                             Shopping in Ipanema´s Charm Blocks     —88
               Relax: Joatinga & Barra Beaches        —44
                                                             Pampering Options                     —90
               Relax: Copacabana                      —45
               Relax: Soccer Game at Maracanã         —46
               Relax: Christ Statue & Santa Teresa    —48
               Relax: Boat day or night cruise        —50

    Rio For Partiers                                                                                                                                                                      Rio For Partiers
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    R
                                                                                                     City of Rio at a Glance
         io is split up into 4 zones: the                                  Int´l Airport
         South Zone, the North Zone,
    the West Zone and the downtown
    area (Centro). As far as general
    tourism is concerned, the only zone
                                                                   Bus station
    of interest is the South and the

                                                                                                                                                Downtown
    downtown area.

    North Zone
                                            Maracana                                                                  Regional Airport
                                                                                                                                                F   rom a tourist’s point of view,
                                                                                                                                                    the downtown area is a zone
                                                                                                                                                of interest due to its historic and
                                                                                                      Lapa
    T   he North Zone is mostly
        poor neighborhoods, with
    very little appeal to tourists.               Tijuca
                                                                                                             Gloria                             cultural buildings (museums,
                                                                                                                                                churches, colonial architecture
                                                                                                                                                etc.) Although very active
    With the exception of the                                                                                                                   during the day, the downtown
                                                                                      Santa Teresa                                              area (with the exception of Lapa
    Tijuca Forest, Maracana and
    the Salgueiro samba school                                                                               Flamengo                           and a few happy hours), is shady
    rehearsals, no other visits are                                                                                                             at night.
    necessary.

    West Zone
    T     he West Zone includes
          everything after Barra da
    Tijuca (commonly referred to as
                                                                                                       Botafogo                Sugar Loaf and
                                                                                                                               Urca
    Barra). Barra is a new middle-                   Corcovado
    upper class neighborhood                                                            Humaita
    with tons of shopping areas                      (Christ Statue)
    and night life. It is, however,
    mostly modelled on the average
    American suburb, with large                                                                                                                 South Zone
                                                                                                             Leme
                                                                                                                                                T
    avenues, strip malls and ample                                                                                                                   he South Zone is the richer
    parking. Unless you have never                                                                                                                   and prettier part of the
    seen an American suburb in your                                                                                                             city, with dozens of hills and
    life, we recommend limiting              Gavea                                                                                              mountains, the lagoon (Lagoa),
    your visits here to Pepe Beach,
    Nuth dance club, Joatinga and                                    Lagoa                           Copacabana                                 and marvelous beaches. It is
                                                                                                                                                also safer than other areas, but
    Barra Shopping mall.                                                                                                                        care must be taken in the slums
                                                                                                                                                covering its hills. It is in the
                                                                                                                                                south zone where most of your
                                                                                                                                                day tours and nightlife will take
                                                          Leblon             Ipanema                                                            place, so this is the area where
                                                                                                                                                we most recommend staying.

    Barra                                   São Conrado
    Rio For Partiers                                               Map not drawn to proportion                                                                    Rio For Partiers
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    10 Rio Commandments
    1 Do stay in Zona Sul                note thinking that the beer guy,    7 Don’t try to drive
                                         the bus or taxi will have change.
    Trust us on this: most of                                                Don’t rent a car and try to figure
                                         Whenever at a restaurant, shop
    your day and night life will                                             out Brazilian road signs. Ok,
                                         or bar, pay with the R$50. Five
    revolve around the Ipanema                                               believe this: not even Cariocas
                                         R$10 bills can be worth more
    neighborhood. Try to stay as                                             (people from Rio) know how to
                                         than a R$50.
    close to it as possible.                                                 get around this maze-like city.
                                                                             So unless you’ve got a very

    2 Don’t walk around                  5 Don’t try to do                   good excuse, don’t try to drive
                                                                             around. One wrong turn and you
                                         cultural stuff in Barra             can end up in the slums, being
    with jewelry
                                         Barra is a nice neighborhood in     fined by the cops, or stuck in
    Ladies and gentlemen! This
                                         Rio. It is modeled on American      rush hour traffic. Even if your
    is not your turf, so no matter
                                         suburbs, with wide avenues,         trip is all-expenses-paid, stick
    how much clout you have at
                                         malls and stripmalls, yet with      to taxis.
    home, it is not worth shit here.
                                         skyscraper residential buildings
    Necklaces, rings, expensive
                                         instead of houses. Most of
    watches, bracelets etc. are not
                                         the businesses have names in        8 Don’t try the peppers
    to be worn except when you are
                                         English. It is, in summary, a       I beg you! Your stomach is
    off to a swanky event or club.
                                         taste of American life. We do,      not used to the chemistry in
    Otherwise, keep it down low.
                                         however, recommend Pepe             Brazilian peppers. Even if you
                                         beach and Nuth dance club.          can handle them, your intestines
    3 Don’t argue with                                                       are bound to react in an

                                                                                                                                     Where to Stay
                                                                             explosive way for days, ruining
    cops                                 6 Don’t stay far away               your trip.
    The cops here are instructed         because it is cheaper
    to take action as opposed to
                                         Okay, you have a Brazilian          9 Avoid the hills.
                                                                                                                   I
    discussing who is right. It                                                                                       f you are here more for the nightlife and beach, stay in Ipanema. If you are here for traditional
                                         connection you met back home
    doesn’t matter who is right, who                                         Most of Rio’s slums are on the           daytime tourism, go with Copacabana, which is closer to most of the attractions and offers “Yes-
                                         or on the Internet. He is the one
    stole what from whom, or if                                              hills, so with the exception of       now-I’m-on-vacation” ocean views. If you can’t find anything affordable, opt for Botafogo, Flamengo
                                         who begged you to come and
    you didn’t know she was under                                            Santa Teresa, Cosme Velho             or Gloria, which are all excellent options, despite being 20 minutes from Ipanema beach. Santa Teresa
                                         you did. After arriving , you
    18. If they want to arrest you                                           and Joatinga, hill sides and          is the ideal option for those looking for a boutique bed & breakfast or hotel with a mountain view and
                                         realize he lives in bumble fuck.
    for anything, let them, then call                                        mountains should be avoided           quaint streets. If you can’t find anywhere else, stay in a motel just off of Leblon. Just so you know,
                                         What to do? Stay at his place
    your consulate. If they want to                                          for your safety. Only go on trails    motels are not for truckers but for lovers, so the rooms are cheesy-swank, with jacuzzi, ceiling mirror,
                                         and please him rather than enjoy
    fine you for something you did,                                          with a tour guide.                    sauna and ocean views. And free condoms! For a list of motels, check page 120. Another option for
                                         the practicality of staying in
    usually for a driving offense,                                                                                 those looking to learn portuguese, and get a good feel for Brazilian life is to stay at the Cama e Cafe
                                         Ipanema, as this Guide suggests?
    (another reason to not drive),                                                                                 network of homes in Santa Teresa offering bed & breakfast. You pay per night, for your private room,
                                         Or should you tell him that you     10 Don’t assume the
    then it is up to your slickness to                                                                             while living with a family. www.camaecafe.com.br
                                         want to explore Rio by yourself
    implore them out of giving you                                           weather will stay nice
    a ticket.
                                         during the day (while he works                                            Why rent an Apartment?
                                         or goes to school) and that         The weather in Rio, as in most        The best option if you are coming with a group is to rent an apartment, since most apartments for rent
                                         you two can hook-up at night?       tropical cities, can change           are 3 bedroom, fitting everyone comfortably. Most have doormen, maid service (US$20 for day’s
    4 Get change for a 50                Go for the second option. You       drastically within an hour. If it’s   cleaning and laundry), TV, DVD etc. Some may even have beach gear, like bodyboards, surfboards or
                                         will waste more time on a cab       sunny, don’t waste your time          bikes. Prices vary according to the usual apt factors, so the range is from US$50 for a one-bedroom to
    The surest way to end up in hell
                                         traveling to and from his place.    doing indoor tours like museums       US$500 for a beach view 4 bedroom penthouse.
    is to walk around with a R$50
                                                                             or shopping.                          Hop to www.rioforpartiers.com/apartments.html
    Rio For Partiers                                                                                                                                                                                        Rio For Partiers
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        Ipanema                                                                                                                        Stuff Near Ipanema
                                                                                                                                       The commercial zone is along Visconde Street. The young beach spot is within
                                                                                                                                       a block’s radius of the 9 lifeguard station (Posto 9). Ipanema is extremely safe
                                                                                                                                       day and night.

                                                                                                                                          super-market
                                                                                                                                                                                                    6

                                                                                                                                                juice/snack bar

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      public fitness
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       patio
                                                                                                                                                 bike rental

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    travel agency
                                                                                     Hotels

                                                                                                                                                 cash machine

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      fitness center
                                                                                                                                                                                          5

      1 Caesar Park (5                  3 Ipanema Inn (3                              5 Sol Ipanema (4            )
                            )                                      )
     Av. Vieira Souto 460              Rua Maria Quitéria 27      SPECIAL DEAL       Av. Vieira Souto, 320
                                                                FOR OUR READERS
     2525-2525                         2523-6092 or 2511-5094                        2525-2020 or 22478484

                                                                                                                                                 beach gear shop
                                                                 CHECK FRONT FLAP

     www.caesar-park.com               www.ipanemainn.com.br                         www.solipanema.com.br/                                                                                    1

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      gay hang out
     reservas.cprj@caesarpark.com.br   reservas@ipanemainn.com.br                    reservas@solipanema.com.br                                                                       2   3

                                                                                                                                                 drug store

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      beach hang out
                                                                                                                                                                                 4

      2 Everest Rio (4                  4 Mar Ipanema (3                              6 Arpoador Inn (3               )
                            )                                      )
                                                                                     Rua Francisco Otaviano 177
                                                                                                                                                   exchange
                                                                                                                                     currency

     Rua Prudente de Moraes 1117       Rua Visconde de Pirajá 539

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Visc.Pirj. 276
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          internet cafe

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Visc Pir. 177
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Visc. Pir. 3
     2525-2200 or 2521-3198            3875-9191                                     2523-6092 or 2511-5094        SPECIAL DEAL
                                                                                                                 FOR OUR READERS

     www.everest.com.br                www.maripanema.com                            www.arpoadorinn.com.br       CHECK FRONT FLAP

     reservas@everestrio.com.br        maripanema@maripanema.com                     reservas@arpoadorinn.com.br

     Rio For Partiers                                          Brazil country code = 55, Rio city code = 21                                                                                                               Rio For Partiers
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          Copacabana South                                                                                                                                         Stuff Near Copa South
                                                                                                                                                                   This side of Copacabana is privileged by being close to Ipanema. It has two
                                                                                                                                                                   busy streets, N.S. Copacabana and Barata Ribeiro, where most shops can be
                                                                                                                                                                   found. The beach is the third best in Zona Sul, after Ipanema and Leblon,
                                                                                                                                                                   packed with gringos, beach vendors and a few obvious hookers.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             beach hang out
                                                                                                                                                                                                                public fitness
                                                                                                                                                                            bike rental

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 patio
                                                                                                                                                                            cash machine
                                                                                                                                                                          juice/snack bar
                                                                                                                                                   SS

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              1

                                                                                                                                                                           fitness center
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         3
      1 PESTANA RIO (5               )                   3 Augusto’s (4           )                     5 Portinari (4          )
                                         SPECIAL DEAL                                                                                   SPECIAL DEAL
     Av. Atlantica 2964         FOR OUR READERS
                                 CHECK FRONT FLAP
                                                        Rua Bolivar 119                                Rua Francisco Sá 17        FOR OUR READERS
                                                                                                                                   CHECK FRONT FLAP
     08000 266 332 or 3816 8541                         2547-1800                                      3222-8800

                                                                                                                                                                      Xavier da Silveira 19
     www.pestana.com                                    www.augustoshotel.com.br                       www.portinaridesignhotel.com.br/

                                                                                                                                                          internet cafe
     vendas@pestanahotels.com.br                        reservas@augustoshotel.com.br                  reservas@hotelportinari.com.br

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      6          5
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             4

                                                                                                                                                        currency ex-
                                                                                                                                                                            change                                                                                            2

      2  Windsor Miramar (5 )                            4 Copacabana Rio (4                            6 Martinique (3
                                                                                         )                                          )
     Av. Atlântica 3668 2195-6200 Fax: 55 21            Av. N. S. Copacabana 1256 SPECIAL DEAL         Av. Sá Ferreira 30
     2521-3294 or 0800-23-2211 FORSPECIAL                                                              2195-5200

                                                                                                                                                                                              beach gear shop
                                                                                   FOR OUR READERS
                                            DEAL
                                                        2267-9900 ou 3043-1111

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     travel agency
                                                                                    CHECK FRONT FLAP

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     inside shopping
                                                                                                                                                                 drug store

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          gay hang out
                                      OUR READERS
     www.windsorhoteis.com

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              super-market
                                   CHECK FRONT FLAP
                                                        www.copacabanariohotel.com.br                  www.windsorhoteis.com
     reservas.martinique@windsorhoteis.com.br           reservas@copacabanariohotel.com.br             reservas.martinique@windsorhoteis.com.br

     Rio For Partiers
                                                                                Brazil country code = 55, Rio city code = 21                                                                                                                                                                                                           Rio For Partiers
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        Copacabana North                                                                                                                             Stuff Near Copa North
                                                                                                                                                     Copacabana North is a good option if you want to stay close to downtown and the
                                                                                                                                                     main tourist attractions. It is just as busy during the day, but quieter than the south
                                                                                                                                                     part of Copa at night. It is also a little more dangerous at night, so cab back and
                                                                                                                                                     forth for any distance longer than a few blocks.

                                                                                                                                                                     travel agency

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             gay hang out
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          bike rental
                                                                                                                                                                                     beach gear shop
                                                                                                                                                                                        fitness center
                                                                                                                                                               Barata Ribeiro 396
                                                                                                                                                                Prado Junior 77
                                                                                                                                                                Rod. Dantas 81
                                                                                                                                                   internet cafe
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                2
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  5
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    3

      1 JW Marriott Hotel (5                        3 Merlin Copacabana (4                )            5 Windsor Plaza (4           )
                                        )

                                                                                                                                                                                          exchange
                                                                                                                                                                      currency
     Av. Atlântica 2600                            Av Princesa Isabel 392                             Av. Princesa Isabel 263                                                                                                                                                           4
     2545 6500 or toll free 0800 703 1512          2542-3390                        SPECIAL DEAL
                                                                                  FOR OUR READERS     2195-5500 or 0800-902090 FORSPECIAL DEAL
                                                                                                                                    OUR READERS
                                                                                                                                CHECK FRONT FLAP
     www.marriott.com/riomc                        www.hotelmerlin.com.br
                                                                                   CHECK FRONT FLAP
                                                                                                      www.windsorhoteis.com.br
     reservas.brasil@marriott.com                  vendas@hotelmerlin.com.br                          reservas.plaza@windsorhoteis.com.br

                                                                                                                                                                       public fitness
                                                                                                                                                                                           patio
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            6
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                1

      2 Royal Rio (4       )                        4 Excelsior Copacabana (4                          6 Windsor Palace (4              )
                                                                                               )

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        juice/snack bar
                                                                                                                                                                                                         subway station

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               beach hang out
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            super-market
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         cash machine
     Rua Duvivier 82             SPECIAL DEAL
                                                                                                  Rua Domingos Ferreira 6 FORSPECIAL
                                                                                                                                                                                        drug store

                               FOR OUR READERS
                                CHECK FRONT FLAP
                                                   Av. Atlantica 1800                                                                DEAL
                                                                                                                               OUR READERS
     2122-9292                                     2195-5800 or 0800-704287 FORSPECIAL    DEAL    2195-6600                CHECK FRONT FLAP

     www.royalrio.com                              www.windsorhoteis.com
                                                                                    OUR READERS
                                                                                 CHECK FRONT FLAP www.windsorhoteis.com.br
     reservas@royalrio.com                         reservas.excelsior@windsorhoteis.com.br        reservas.windsor@windsorhoteis.com.br
     Rio For Partiers                                                    Brazil country code = +55, Rio city code = 21                                                                                                                                                                                     Rio For Partiers
Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers
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         Around Rio                                                                                              Casa MangoMango B&B

                                                                                                                 Y    ou can come to Rio to be
                                                                                                                      in the mix, or to get away
                                                                                                                 from it all. Casa MangoMango
                                                                                                                                                      MangoMango. Come sundown,
                                                                                                                                                      you can dine in one of a variety
                                                                                                                                                      of cosmopolitan restaurants in
                                                                                                                 gives you the best of both           Santa Teresa before heading
                                                                                                                 worlds. Nested in the hills of       down to Lapa to discover some
                                                                                                                 Santa Teresa, this hidden gem        of the best live music venues
                                                                                                                 leaves you thinking you are in a     in Brazil. Casa MangoMango
                                                                                                                 charming village yet on the cusp     is a friendly, relaxed, family
                                                                                                                 of the best nightlife in Rio. In     environment that caters to
                                                                                                            ER   addition to the large airy rooms,    everybody’s needs and budget                   Casa MangoMango
                                                                                                                 you can relax by the poolside        and gives a special touch of                   Rua Joaquim Murtinho 587- Santa Teresa
                                                                                                                                                                                                     tel: 2508 6440 or 8131 3258

     Hotel Santa Teresa
                                                                                                                 sipping a caipirinha or explore      customized service to all their
                                                                                                                                                                                                     support@casa-mangomango.com FORSPECIAL    DEAL
                                                                                                                 the sprawling exotic fruit           guests.                                                                            OUR READERS
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      CHECK FRONT FLAP
                                                                                                                                                                                                     www. casa-mangomango.com
                                                                                                                 gardens, hence the name Casa

                                                                                                                 Rio Party Hostel

     Rio´s “Conde Nast” award-          sets the standard for Brazil´s
     winning new boutique spa hotel     new deluxe aesthetic. With a
     is ideal for those who want to     natural yet luxurious and unique
     chillax, yet be minutes from the   environment, the Spa offers
     action. Located a minute from      vast variety of treatments of the
     Santa Teresa´s restaurant block,   Amazonian brand of Natura.
     and five from Lapa, there you
     can enjoy the peace and quiet
                                        The restaurant has quickly made
                                        itself to the top list of Rio´s                                          A    lthough not associated
                                                                                                                      with this guide, Rio
                                                                                                                 Party Hostel, located in the
                                                                                                                                                      at R$25 (Rio´s lowest) while
                                                                                                                                                      private rooms for two start at
                                                                                                                                                      R$90 (very affordable). They
     of a small colonial village in     restaurants, headed by chef
     style. The rooms are decorated     Damien Montecer.                                                         neighbourhood of Botafogo,           offer optional surfing tours to
     with cutting edge “Brazilian”                                                                               is conveniently located next         their guests.
                                                                     SPECIAL DEAL

     design furniture, Brazilwood,
                                                                   FOR OUR READERS                               to hip joints like Casa da
                                        Hotel Santa Teresa
                                                                    CHECK FRONT FLAP

     themes from Northeast Brazil                                                                                Matriz, Cinematheque, Cobal          Rio Party Hostel
                                        Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 660
     and its coffee and cocoa           tel: 2221 1406 / 3380-0200 / 2222-2755                                   do Humaita and lots of other         Rua Henrique Novaes 71, Botafogo
     plantation farms. In short, it     reservas@santateresahotel.com                                            nightlife spots. The house has       tel: 2246-9120 or 7827-7479
                                                                                                                                                                                   SPECIAL DEAL
                                        www.santateresahotel.com                                                 been recently remodelled, so it      info@riopartyhostel.com.br FOR OUR READERS
                                                                                                                                                                                  CHECK FRONT FLAP
                                                                                                                                                      www.riopartyhostel.com.br
                                                                                                                 is not a dingy hostel. Rates start
     Rio For Partiers
                                                             Brazil country code = 55, Rio city code = 21                                                                                                                   Rio For Partiers
Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers
18                                          B efore C oming                                                                                  B efore C oming                      19

                        What to bring
     Summer Clothes                      GSM mobile phone                    What you don’t need
     It is constantly hot and humid      A GSM ready cellular phone          to bring
     during and around the summer        will help                           Towel or swimming gear
     months, where you may not           you stay
     even want to wear a pair of         connected                           Snorkel or Hawaiian shirts
     pants, let alone a sweater at       with the                            Winter jacket
     night. Ladies stick to flood        world by                            Laptop
     pants, skirts, summer dresses,      using the
     tank tops and T-shirts. Men stick   roaming
     to sandals, Bermuda shorts and      service from                        Petty Cash
     T-shirts.                           Brazilian                           If you are in a group, instead of
                                         carriers. If                        each person paying for his or
                                         your phone                          her beer, taxi, entrance and other
     Winter Clothes                      has a built-in camera, even         small stuff, why not choose
     Winter (June to August) in          better: take and send pictures      someone to carry the petty cash.
     Rio feels like mid May in the       and videos to make all your         Each morning, each member
     northern part of the US and         friends instantantly jealous. (To   chips in R$50 or R$100.
     Europe or like beginning of         learn how to activate your phone
     April in the southern part of       in Brazil, see page 30)
     the US and Europe. Dress                                                IDs and Cards
     accordingly. During a cold night                                        Passport
     in mid winter, temperatures drop
                                                                             Student ID
     to 60F, 15C                         Budget and Money
                                                                             Driver’s License
                                         Cheap spending (eating at the
                                         hostel, few restaurants, no hard-   Tourist Visa
                                         core clubbing, basic tours):        2 Credit Cards (Visa &
     Equipment                           US$60 a day.                        Mastercard) Call your card
     Sunglasses                                                              and let them know you’ll be
                                         Average spending (restaurants
     Cheap watch                         and street food, hostel or          travelling to South America, as
                                         cheap hotel, most of the tours):    they sometimes freeze your card
     Digital camera
                                         US$120 a day                        (on seeing irregular activity) till
     (the smallest
                                                                             you call in to explain.
     possible)                           All-out living (nice hotel,
     Disposable camera (for street       restaurants, all the tours,
     events)                             clubbing, shopping, massages        Before flying to
                                         etc): US$200 a day
     Anti-diarrhea medication                                                Brazil
     Sunscreen                           You should bring half of your
                                                                             Call the closest Brazilian            Joatinga Beach (pg. 36)
                                         budget in cash and have the
     Cap                                                                     consulate and check with them
                                         other half available on your
                                                                             on the required vaccines and
                                         credit card. Forget travellers
                                                                             visas. Also check the listing of
                                         checks as they are not readily
                                                                             consulates world-wide at:
                                         accepted.                           www.brazil.org.uk

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               Rio Stats and Keys                                                                             Botafogo bay with Sugar Loaf Mountain, Niterói city in the background

     Telephones:                        Electric Socket                   Public Holidays
     How to Call                                                          1st of January : New Years day
     Rio de Janeiro to USA: 00 31 +
     country code (i.e.: 1 for USA) +                                     20th of January - Saint Sebastian
     area code + telephone number                                         : Only In Rio

     To call from Rio de Janeiro to     Electric voltage: 110V. (some     Shifting dates in Feb - Carnival
     other cities in Brazil=            hotels have 220V. adaptors)
     0 + 31 + city area code +
     telephone number                                                     Shifting in March - Holy Week
                                        Shopping
                                        Tip: 10% of the total : usually   21st of April - Tiradentes
     Arriving in Rio                    already included                  (Independence hero)
     Distance between International     Commerce hours: 9pm. to 7pm
     Airport Antônio Carlos Jobim
                                        Shopping centers: 10am to 10pm    23 of April - Saint George (Only
     (GIG) to Copacabana = 20 Km
     (30min) = roughly R$40             Banks: 10am to 4 pm               In Rio)
                                        Cash machines: from 6am to
                                        10pm                              1st of May - Labor Day
     Distance between Santos
     Dumont Airport to Copacabana       Cash machines At Galeão/
     = 15 Km = roughly R$20             Santos Dumont/ Rodoviária are
                                        24h.                              Shifting dates in June - Corpus
                                                                          Christi
     Bus station: Rodoviária Novo
     Rio Tel: 2263-5828 Ext. 192        Subway Station                    7 of September - Independence
     Distance Copa to Novo Rio          From Monday to Saturday: from     Day
     =20km = R$20                       5am to 12am
                                        Sunday and holidays from 7am
                                                                          12 of October - Our Lady of
     Climate                            to 11pm.
                                                                          Apparition - Brazil’s Holy Lady
     Rio de Janeiro is a subtropical
     city.                              Rio de Janeiro’s                  2nd of November - Finados
     Summer December to March           Neighboring States
     with temperatures 25°C (77°F)
                                        West: Minas Gerais                15th of November - Republic
     to 42°C (108°F);
                                        North: Espírito Santo             Proclamation
     Winter June to August,
     temperature around 20°C (68°F)     Southwest: São Paulo
     to 16°C (60°F).                    East: Atlantic Ocean              20th of November - Zumbi Dos
                                                                          Palmares : Black Consciousness

                                                                          25th of December - Christmas
     Rio For Partiers                                                                                                                                                                 Rio For Partiers
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                                                              Brazilian                                             Pride                       by Phil Smith

     PEOPLE                               10. Nelson Piquet (Formula One
                                          driver: still going)               FACTS                               9. Iguaçu Falls, in the southern
                                                                                                                 state of Paraná, is bigger than
                                                                                                                 both Niagara and Victoria Falls!
                                                                                                                                                      Quotes                             11. “We live well and enjoy
                                                                                                                                                                                         the natural beauty that God has
                                                                                                                                                                                         given us”
     1. Pelé (the best soccer player                                         1. Brazil has 20% of the world’s                                         Fifteen reasons why Brazilians
                                                                                                                 (60 feet higher than Niagara
     ever: these days he promotes         11. Zico (another soccer star,     fresh water supply (China has                                            are proud to be ”Brazilian”
                                                                                                                 and about one and a half times
     more brands than Proctor &           now a top-notch coach)             20% of the world’s people!)                                              (Real quotes from Real             12. “We have incredible cultural
                                                                                                                 as wide)
     Gamble)                                                                                                                                          Brazilians on Ipanema beach!)      diversity which gives us strength
                                                                                                                                                                                         and a feeling of togetherness.”
                                          12. Carmen Miranda (1940s          2. There are 184 million of                                              1. “Because of the unique energy
                                                                                                                 10. As well as beach football,                                          13. “We love our music!”
     2. Gisele Bundchen (tall,            actress, beautiful, born in        them! (July 2004, so even more                                           of the Brazilian people.”
                                                                                                                 we play Fresco ball, which is
     beautiful, magical legs,             Portugal, adopted by Brazilians)   now!)
                                                                                                                 like tennis, only we don’t let the
     supermodel)
                                                                                                                 ball bounce.                         2. “Brazil is a happy and          14. “The truth is that the
                                          13. Chico Mendes (Amazon           3. They all speak the same                                               passionate nation”                 combination of the people and
     3. Paulo Coelho (Novelist with a     rainforest activist, murdered in   language! (Portuguese)                                                                                      natural beauty makes Brazil a
                                                                                                                 11. Brazil has the highest                                              unique and happy place.”
     knack for semi-mystic fiction)       1988)                                                                  number of species of primates,       3. “We have the best natural
                                                                                                                 amphibians and plants in the                                            15. “We are Party People!”
                                                                             4. You can not tell Brazilians by                                        resources and natural beauty in
                                                                                                                 world, and is in the top five in                                        (Festeiros)
     4. Lula (NOT the female singer       14. Roberto Marinho (founding      simply looking at them (we have                                          the world”

                                                                                                                                                                                         But Most
     who was big in the sixties: HE is    father of O Globo media empire,    the most diverse mix of races       the world for numbers of birds
     the President!)                      recently died at age 98)           and cultures in the world)          and reptile species. A typical
                                                                                                                 acre of Amazonian rainforest         4. “We are always optimistic!”

                                                                                                                                                                                         of All...
                                                                                                                 will support around 250 species      5. “Because of all the beautiful
     5. Ronaldo (number 9: bald, big      15. Xuxa (former wife of Pelé:     5. Two thirds of them live near     of trees, compared with around       women!”
     teeth, incredibly skilled soccer     TV presenter, singer, THE          the coast (or should we say “By     10 species an acre in typical
     star)                                QUEEN OF THE KIDS)                 the beach!”)                        forests in Europe.                                                      Brazilians are the happiest
                                                                                                                                                      6. “We are very hospitable,        people in the world, according
                                                                                                                                                      spiritual and sensual.”            to two independent sociological
     6. Ronaldinho (number 10:            16. Chico Buarque (singer/poet/    6. Caipirinhas are possibly the     12. As well as being expert
     dreads, big teeth, incredibly                                           best drink in the world to sip at                                                                           studies in US and German
                                          composer/genius)                                                       dancers in samba, zouk, pagode,
     skilled soccer star)                                                    sunset.                                                                  7. “We are very open and fun.”     universities. After analyzing
                                                                                                                 chorinho, bossa nova and forró,                                         various factors such as
                                          17. Jorge Amado (one of Brazil’s                                       Brazil is also home to capoeira,                                        emotional balance, financial
     7. Gilberto Gil (singer, song        most popular writers: Go to        7. Every year they host the         a unique blend of dancing,           8. “We are simple, not             stability, nutrition, health,
     writer, actor, politician: dreads,   Bahia to check out a UNESCO-       biggest parties in the world:       martial arts and traditional         complicated, happy, and very       family, love, sex, stress and
     aging rock star)                     listed house, constructed in his   Carnival!! Come and join us         music.                               friendly”                          professional outlook, Brazil
                                                                             in February every year! (Or                                                                                 came out on top of both

                                                                                                                 Odd
                                          honor)
                                                                             New Year’s Eve for the World’s                                                                              international studies. Nigeria
     8. Fernando Meirelles (film                                                                                                                      9. “Because of the solidarity
                                                                             second biggest party!)                                                                                      in 2nd place. They concluded
     director of ”Cidade de Deus”         18. Jose and Antonio Ermino de                                                                              here. We are very hospitable,
                                                                                                                 Favelas (slums) have the             communicative and our people       that the happiest countries were
     about gangs in Rio favelas)          Moraes (richest men in Brazil,                                         highest percentage world-            have a wonderful temperament.”     the ones where its citizens’
                                          brothers)                          8. They produce over 50% of the
                                                                                                                 wide of civil engineers (all                                            perception of and hope for life
                                                                             world’s coffee!
     9. Ayrton Senna (Formula One                                                                                unlicensed).                                                            improvement are high. Dealing
     driver: RIP)                                                                                                Posto 9 and 10 (Ipanema) and         10. “We have the best football     a blow to political theories, 2
                                                                                                                 Praia do Pepe have the highest       team in the world.”                Scandinavian countries came out
                                                                                                                 ratio of sculptured bodies.                                             close to the bottom.

     Rio For Partiers                                                                                                                                                                                     Rio For Partiers
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                                                                       General                                       Tips
     Guest Tips                              go wrong joining the Cariocas
                                             for their happy hour at this
                                             revitalized street junction, next
                                                                                  Tours                              Rio By                               How to                              To avoid
                                                                                  3 things to ask before
     Real Gabinete
     Português de Leitura
                                             to the Centro Cultural Banco
                                             do Brasil and the Casa França-
                                             Brasil. When the evening starts,
                                                                                  booking a tour
                                                                                  1: What happens in case of
                                                                                                                     Yourself                             cure a                              hangovers
                                                                                                                     Want to meet others to make the                                          1) Don`t drink caipirinhas made

                                                                                                                                                          hangover
     The Royal Portuguese Reading            the bars offer free live top-notch   rain? Postponed or carried out     most of your visit? Use these                                            on the street... they tend to use
     Room is one of the most                 samba. Cheap and unmissable.         anyway?
     beautiful places I know of. It                                                                                  tricks and team up.                                                      unfiltered ice.
     is ideal to spend to spend a                                                                                    1) Join a group tour:                A nasty hangover can ruin your
     morning there.                          “Globo” Brand                        2: How long does it take to pick   - Soccer game
                                                                                                                                                          next day. Follow these and
                                                                                                                                                                                              2) Pace your drinking with
                                                                                                                                                          you`ll be back at the bar by 2pm.
                                             cookies and Mate tea                 up others in the tour?
                                                                                                                     - Schooner tour                                                          a glass of water every so
     Bira´s Bar at Barra                                                                                                                                  1) Before going to bed drunk,       often. (I`ve never been able
                                             on tap                                                                  - Favela tour                        drink as much water as possible.
     de Guaratiba                                                                 3: Is it possible to find                                                                                   to remember to do this, but
                                             You can´t leave Rio without                                             - Hiking                                                                      hypothetically it makes
     To have a passionfruit caipirinha       trying this perfect duo on a         transportation back if I break
                                                                                  away from the group?                                                    2) Aleve, Tylenol or any                 sense.)
     and to taste the different pasteis      sunny day. When at the beach
     (meat pastry) while admiring the        and you start feeling hungry or                                         2) Ask a travel agent:               powerful aspirin in the
     breathtaking view rom Marambaia         thirsty, don´t think of finding a                                                                            morning.                            3) Before going back to the
                                                                                  4: Will there be food vendors       Whoever booked your hotel,
     plant reef is, without a doubt, one     restaurant. First, try the Globo                                                                                                                 hotel, throw down a steak
                                                                                  and restaurants involved or        apt or flight can introduce you
     of the best option in Rio.              cookies acompanied by a glass                                                                                                                    sandwich from Lammas or
                                                                                  should I pack some snacks?         to others who are in Rio by
                                             of Mate tea straight from the                                           themselves, so you can make                                              Cervantes (check page 120). I
     Jardim Botânico                         vendor with the barrel. Be                                              some vacation buddies.                                                   have no idea if this works, but it

                                                                                  Don`ts
                                             sure to ask for him to mix                                                                                                                       sure tastes good.
     I find it fundamental to set
                                             both tea and lemonade flavors                                                                                3)
     a day to spend enjoying the
     natural beauties of the Botanical
                                             “misturado”. It´s always cold,                                          3) Hit the happy hours               Drink
                                                                                  Don`t get irate with Brazilians                                                                             4) Ask for premium cachaça
     Gardens, one of the favorite
                                             refreshing and go great together.                                       early.                               some                                or vodka when ordering your
                                                                                  who show up half an hour late...                                        coconut
     places of the great maestro and                                              that`s within reason in Rio. Its   Why not, right? Should make                                              caipirinha. The cheap brands
                                                                                                                                                          water the next morning. 2
     Bossa Nova co-creator Antonio           Maracanã                             called Brazilian time. Salvador    you more extroverted by the
                                                                                                                                                          coconuts if you are normal
                                                                                                                                                                                              are not as filtered or selectively
     Carlos Jobin,                                                                time is even worse!                time people arrive.                                                      distilled.
                                             You can´t not go to Maracana on                                                                              sized, 1 if you are short, 3 if
                                             a Sunday... it´s obligatory!                                                                                 your nickname is Shrek.
     Jobi                                                                                                            4) Ask your concierge.                                                   5) A shot of olive oil before
                                                                                  Don`t ride in the front seats of
     In the wee hours, your best bet is                                           buses or vans... they drive too    They should know who else is                                             drinking will help you win any
     a beer at Jobi, the last bar to close                                                                                                                4) A beef pastel (turn-over) or     binging competition...really!
                                                                                  fast.                              staying at your hotel that shares    a picanha burger with fries are
     in Rio. While absorbing Rio’s life      Antonio Pedro                                                           common interests or wants to
                                             Figueira                                                                                                     just what the doctor ordered.
     style, have a chopp and bolinho                                                                                 split a tour, like renting a speed
                                             de Mello is                          Don`t forget to double check                                                                                6) Cut yourself off after 17
     de bacalhau (cod cake).                                                                                         boat, private city tour etc.
                                             president of                         any info you get on the street:                                                                             caipirinhas... I mean, you gotta
                                                                                                                                                          5) Jog and sweat it away. What      have limits, man!
                                             Riotur, the city´s                   Brazilians are always glad to                                           better place to do it other than
     Ouvidor and Mercado                     tourism office.                      help, even with wrong info.        5) Join a small                      the beach bike path (for joggers
     Street Corner                                                                                                   nightlife tour                       too).
     On Friday afternoons, you can´t                                                                                 Ask before about the group
                                                                                                                     dynamics.
     Rio For Partiers                                                                                                                                                                                           Rio For Partiers
26                                               B efore C oming                                                                                                 B efore C oming                                                        27

     Emergencies                                                                                                         Fashion Crimes
     A visit to Rio is no trip do Disney World. It is a big city, with its fair share of problems. Should you get
     into an emergency situation, be sure to follow these procedures to bring things back to normal.

     Ill or Injured                           Stomach ache                        Robbed                                 Black socks with                     Brazilian flag canga                 Sandals at night
     Although Rio has somewhat                You ate the peppers, right? Or      First say your prayers if you          bermudas and flip-flops              (surrong)                            Rio is not Club Med... put
     free medical assistance offered          was it the street caipirinhas       weren`t physically assaulted or                                             Yup, muggers love it when            on shoes like everyone else,
     by the state, most 1st world             with questionable ice? We bad       attacked. Second, hop over to the                                           you wear those, cause they can       specially if you are going to
     visitors may not like the                mouth it so much people get         Tourist Police Station in Leblon                                            rob you then indirectly sell the     restaurants or clubs.
     response time Brazilians have            curious about them... oh well.      (Av. Afranio de Melo 159 or call                                            surrong back to you, how’s that
     become accustomed to. Long               What my buddy, who was              3399-7170). They may not be                                                 for irony?
     waiting lines                            travelling through India, used      able to recoup your belongings,
                                                                                                                                                                                                   Not covering your
     and lack                                 to do whenever he got the runs      but can issue a police report for                                                                                bikini while walking on
     of English                               would be to mix a finger of         insurance purposes, and issue an                                            The Latest italian                   the beach sidewalk
     speaking                                 vinegar with a finger of water      alert to patrol cars to better serve                                        fashion
     attendants                               and gulp it down. That would        that area.                                                                                                       Why flaunt your celulite?
     may worsen                               kill whatever was wrecking
     your medical                             havoc in his stomach. He would
                                                                                  Arrested                                                                                                         Motel Flip-Flops in
     problem.                                 later drink some yogurt to
                                              bring his intestinal flora back     Were you a bad boy (or girl)? Or                                                                                 public
     Luckily there is                                                                                                    You are not in France.
     a clinic devoted                         up. Soon he would drink a few       were you set up by “the man”?
     to working                               coconut waters (agua de coco)       In either case, nothing like a
     with tourists                            to hydradte. Has worked for         slick lawyer to squeeze you            Safari hat
     24 hours a day,                          him and others, but surely this     out. To find a best one for your
                                                                                                                         Come on! Brazil has already
     and in several                           is something I can`t recommend      needs, contact your consulate,                                              It hasn´t caught on yet in Brazil,
                                                                                                                         been discovered! 500 years ago!
     languages                                because I’m not a doctor.... just   listed in the back cover.                                                   so it will just make you look
     (English,                                a trick I heard...                                                                                              scandelous.
     Spanish and                                                                  Lost Passport                          Backpack at the beach
     French).                                                                                                                                                 Clogs
                                              Rip Offs                            Should you lose your passport
                                                                                                                         What the hell have you got in
     They have the necessary                                                                                             there that is so needed? Black
                                              Should you get tricked by any       (it shouldn`t have left the hotel                                           Flat out ugly. Personal opinion.
     infrastructure, or partnerships                                                                                     socks? Go to the beach with
                                              establishment in Rio, whether       in the first place), be sure to                                                                                  The best way to look clue-less.
     with other clinics to cure what                                                                                     your beach clothes, and thats it.
                                              a tampered taxi or a restaurant     contact your consulate as they                                                                                   Leave them at the motel.
     ails you, from simple colds to
                                              waiter or a bait&switch shop,       can produce a quick fix. Check
                                                                                                                         Thats the beach experience, not      Monobutt pants
     minor surgery.                                                                                                      an expedition.
                                              contact me. The only things that    the back cover for a list of local
     Should you need to, they can             boils my blood is poor customer     consulates and numbers.                                                                                          Brazilian soccer team
     also visit you at your hotel.            service and paying for dumb                                                Large waterbottle                                                         shirt
     What`s more, they work with              movies. I live for this, and will   Lost Flight                            There are juice stands and bars                                           Only during world cup games.
     most international health plans          try to use all my super-powers to
                                                                                  Over slept? Unless you are here        in every corner...do you really
     and traveller`s insurance.               put them in their place.
                                                                                  during extreme high season, you        prefer your warm water over a
     Galdino Campos Clinic                    cris@rioforpartiers.com                                                                                                                              Argentinian soccer
     Contact: Ronaldo Galdino Campos                                              may be able to extend your stay        freshly blended mango juice?         Just anti climatic...
     Rua NS Copacabana 492                                                        for US$75 or so. Check the list                                                                                  team shirt
     Tel:2548-9966                            Remember to keep the Emergency      at the back for the local office
     www.galdinocampos.com.br                 Contacts Card (see back cover)      for major airlines.
                                                                                                                         Bean necklace on men                 Towels at the beach
                                                                                                                                                                                                   Threat to your existence.
     Member of the International Society of   always in your pocket.                                                     Thats so 90s... and not yet retro.
     Travel Medicine                                                                                                                                          The sun should dry you faster
                                                                                                                         Wait 7 years.                        than the towel, so why bother?

     Rio For Partiers                                                                                                                                                                                                Rio For Partiers
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                                 Safety tips                                                     How to avoid being a target
     A     s a general rule, gringos are
           somewhat untouchable on
     drug-lord rules. Your chances of
                                           Don’t be a hero: if you are held
                                           at gun point, slowly pass over
                                           the money and leave it at that.
                                                                                                      A    s a general rule, you want to dress down. The grungy look will do you
                                                                                                           good. Since you are on vacation, you don’t need to worry about your
                                                                                                      reputation or poor service. Here are some general rules to abide by, to better
     being kidnapped, held hostage,                                                                   guarantee your safety (especially when anywhere between Flamengo and
     etc are a lot smaller than that                                                                  Centro or the north side):
     of an upper class Brazilian. But      Get the hell out after any
     regardless, drug lords’ powers        dangerous situation: if you
     are confined to only the smarter      managed to stop a pick pocket                              Baseball Caps
     or bigger crooks. The small fish,     in his tracks, get out, as his                             Dead give-aways.
     such as young pick-pockets and        partners may come after you.
     out-of-town criminals, take their
     chances.                              Another very common technique
                                                                                                      Hair cut
                                           is for the crook to rob while on                           Leave the “out of control” waxed hair style for the trendier clubs.
     Beware on empty streets just          a bike. They can snatch your
                                           cellular phone, necklace or purse
     as much as at overly crowded
                                           while passing by at high speeds.
                                                                                                      Accent
     events. The new age in pick                                                                      When in a crowd of dubious types, keep your talking to a minimum.
     pocketing (some new Eastern-
     European techniques are now           If you are passing by a shady
     arriving in Brazil) is to create a    character in an empty street at                            Shirt
     situation in a crowd where your       night, wave an eager “Hi! I’m                              T-shirt instead of a Hawaiian shirt. Leave the Brazilian soccer team shirt for
     hands are distracted while they       over here!” to your imaginary                              back home.
     go for your pockets.                  friend that’s a block away. This
                                           should throw a monkey wrench
     A good example is the Russian         in his scheme at the last second.                          Money & Ids
     mustard trick, where they put                                                                    Don’t bring too much nor too little money, as they will shake you down
     mustard on your head in the                                                                      till they get something. Don’t carry a passport, nor all your credit cards or
                                           Don’t trust the cops’ intelligence
     subways. While you check to see                                                                  more than R$200. Bring one major CC and one form of ID: student, drivers’
                                           or integrity: if you get pick-
     what the heck is on your head,                                                                   license or state. Don’t trust your pockets, keep them zipped or buttoned up.
                                           pocketed, say what-the-hell and
     they go through your pockets.         go on with your tour instead of
                                           getting caught up in reporting                             Camera
     Another common trick here in          incidents and other red tape.
                                                                                                      Don’t walk around thinking the strap will guarantee your camera’s safety.
     Brazil is the “fight breaks out”      Not only is that an exercise in
     trick, when right in front of you     futility, but it will eat up your
     there is a scuffle in the middle      time and mood. Like a friend                               Bermudas shorts and flood pants
     of a crowd. While everyone            of mine said after getting $200              Gringo        You can wear bermudas shorts, but wear the styles the Brazilian boys wear,
     is being pushed away from             pick-pocketed in the north of
                                                                                                      not what’s in style back home. Flood pants never caught on in Rio, so no.
                                           Brazil: “Fuck it, I consider it a
                                                                                Local

     the scuffle, and while you are
     holding someone who is being          small tourist tax” and went back
     pushed onto you, someone              to drinking. Not the best point of                         Sandals
     behind you (sometimes a               view as a long-term philosophy,
                                                                                                      Wear tennis shoes or flip-flops instead. And, Lord, no black socks.
     woman) goes through your              but it worked fine that week.
     pockets.
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                                            Things You’ll                                                        Need to Get
     How to Stay in Touch                  Brazilian money:
     with Home                             At the airport, be sure to change
     Your GSM mobile works in              US$50, enough to pay for the
     Brazil. It roams calls using          cab to your hotel, where you’ll
     local carriers, so you can send       be able to exchange at fairer                                                                                                   Cheap Sunglasses
     text messages, pictures, videos,      rates.
                                                                               Frescobol paddles (optional)                             Snacks
     access the internet, and, of
     course, make and receive calls.       At the Beach Gear                                                                                                               Carry at all times
                                           Shop                                At the pharmacy                 Hangover medicine
     To make calls in Rio, use the                                                                             “remédio para ressaca”   With the Street
     following dialing process:                                                                                                         Vendors
     • Making local calls: simply dial
     the number
                                                                                                               At the super-market
     • Calls within Brazil: 0 + long
     distance carrier code + city code
                                                                                                                                                                           Reals (Pronounced “Hey-ice”) in
     + phone number                                                            Sun-screen                                                                                  small bills
     • Calls outside Brazil: 00 +
     international long distance carrier
     code + country code + phone
     number
                                           Flip Flops                                                                                   Cheap watch

     If you don`t know the codes for
     long distance carriers, simply                                                                            Toilet paper
     let your phone choose one from
     it`s automatic programming. To
     save money, it`s best to check                                            Antidiarrheal medicine                                                                      Photo ID (or a xerox of your
     with your phone`s carriers for                                            “remedio para desarranjo”                                                                   passport)
     partnerships with Brazilian
     carriers.

     Your contacts back home can           Brazilian fashion beach wear
                                                                                                                                        Calling card (found at the news-
     reach you simply by dialing                                                                                                        stands, roughly R$5)
                                                                                                               Bottled water
     your regular number, with no
     prefixes.
                                                                               Disposable camera or cheap
                                                                               digital camera (download your
                                                                               photos daily to a pendrive.)
                                                                                                                                                                           1 VISA credit card
                                           After-sun lotion (Aloe Vera)

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                                                         What to Do                                                  at the                         Beach
     Read This Book
     During your first day at the
                                           speed of the wave, and ride the
                                           wake.
                                           Beer
                                                                                                                  Soccer – Football
                                                                                                                                                    What not                            Water
                                                                                                                                                    to do                               safety tips
     beach, while you wait for a butt
     to pass by, read this book! It will
     guarantee you a great time, and
     lots of savings.                                                                                                                               Don’t try the Beach                 Whenever a fierce wave is
                                                                                                                                                                                        coming your way, you should
                                                                                                                                                    shrimp
                                                                                                                                                                                        swim towards it so you can
     Frescobol                                                                                                                                      Or any beach seafood. Certain       jump through it before it breaks
                                                                                                                                                    death.                              on you.
                                                                                                                  In most cases, since the teams
                                                                                                                  run from 4 to as many as 16       Don’t make eye
                                                                                                                  players on each side, you can     contact with the                    If it does break in front of you,
                                                                                                                  just ask anyone of the team                                           drop to the bottom, stay as close
                                                                                                                                                    vendors
                                                                                                                  players if you can join their                                         to the sand as possible and wait
                                                                                                                  game. This is if you can hang.    If you do, they will come and
                                                                                                                                                                                        for it to pass over you.
                                           Hey! Now we’re talking!            Walk                                If you can’t, go back to paddle   pester you for several minutes.
                                           Beer drinking at the beach is                                          ball.                             When they catch your attention,
                                                                              Duh…                                                                  quickly give them the no sign
                                           everybody’s favorite sport. But
                                           do drink some water every now                                                                            by shaking you index finger just
                                           and then, as you are probably      Volleyball                          Massage                           twice.
     The paddle ball game the              dehydrating faster than you
     Cariocas play is one of the few       think, which will make you
     non-competitive sports in the                                                                                                                  Guys: don’t lie down
                                           sleepy by dusk.
     world. Stand 15ft (5m.) apart,                                                                                                                 on the sand
     close to the water, and paddle                                                                                                                 That’s for women or guys
     away.                                                                                                                                                                              If you get caught in the
                                           Jog                                                                                                      accompanied by their girlfriends.
                                                                                                                                                                                        undertow (or any water current
     Body Surf                                                                                                                                                                          pulling you out to sea), two
                                                                                                                                                    Don’t forget to take                simple rules: 1) don’t struggle
                                                                                                                                                                                        against it; 2) swim parallel to
                                                                                                                                                    off your sunglasses
                                                                              Yes, you want to play volleyball.                                                                         the beach till you are out of the
                                                                              But the Cariocas playing it                                           Raccoon eyes are not cool in        current.
                                                                              won’t even recognize the fact                                         Rio.
                                                                              that you are waiting to be asked    You can get a beach massage
                                                                              in. You can either be persistent    with any of the masseurs posted                                       If there are more than a few
                                                                              and ask someone inbetween           every 6 blocks close to the       Don’t leave your stuff              surfers in the ocean, try to stay
     Body surfing is probably the          Feel like exercising or sweating
                                                                              games, or you can rent or           sidewalk. Their prices range      unguarded                           as far from them as possible.
     purest water sport in the world.      off yesterday’s hangover? Jog
                                                                              borrow a ball from someone and      from R$50 to R$80 an hour.                                            One slip and their board cracks
     That means you can have               along the beach. No further                                                                              When going into the water,
                                                                              play on an empty court (unlikely                                                                          your head open (sorry about the
     fun with nature without any           explaining needed…                                                                                       simply ask your beach neighbor
                                                                              to happen on weekends). If you                                                                            drama).
     equipment, even swimming                                                                                                                       to watch your stuff for you. If
                                                                              can hang with the best or if you                                      you brought a digital camera or     If you can’t swim you should
     trunks. As a wave is passing you
     by, jump with it, do two strokes
                                           BodyWatch                          are tall, they may let you in. If                                     any amount of money, one of         stay close to the life guard posts;
                                           Inevitable.                        you suck, practice elsewhere.                                         your group should stay behind.      in case you get pulled out.
     so your body catches up to the
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                                                      What’s the                                                deal with...?
     Poor people in rich                Street vendors                                                          Lack of tribes?                       Excessive waiters?                   groups to hang around, blast
                                                                                                                                                                                           music and sip beer, probably
     areas?                             everywhere?                                                             Where are the punks? The              Given that the minimum wage
                                                                                                                                                                                           because they are one of the
     They come to nicer                 Selling mostly stuff made in                                            nerds? The hippies? The heroin        is R$380 (US$190 per month),
                                                                                                                                                                                           few convenience stores open at
     neighborhoods to beg from the      China, street vendors account for                                       addicts? The grungy? The              most businesses can afford a
                                                                                                                                                                                           night.
     rich (makes sense), but donation   about 1/3 of Brazil’s work force.                                       reggae? Rio doesn’t have visible      large staff to improve service.
     is not recommended unless they     This type of business is illegal                                        amount of any of the above. It is     Unfortunately, most of this staff
     have a condition. Many of the      but frequently overlooked, as                                           mostly preppies, jiu-jitsu fighters   is under-trained, which lowers
                                                                                                                (pit bulls), artsy-fartsy (neo-       the quality of service.
     beggars in working condition       most escape the regulating street
                                                                                                                hippies) and normal people. You
                                                                                                                                                                                           The lack of BMWs
     choose to beg. Don’t give them     cops.
                                                                                                                can find all these tribes in São                                           and luxury cars?
     anything, as this doesn’t help
     anybody. If you want to help,                                                                              Paulo.                                                                     Brazilians get hit with 100%
     check page 72 on how to give                                                                                                                     What race are                        tariff on imported cars, so a
                                                                            Dog TV?
     back.
                                                                            These are rotisserie chicken
                                                                                                                                                      Brazilians?                          BMW325e goes for about
                                                                                                                                                                                           US$60K. And given that most
                                                                            ovens, referred to as television                                          Brazilians are a mixture of
                                                                                                                                                                                           wealthy Brazilians don’t want to
                                                                            for dogs. For around R$8 you                                              different ethnic groups, so mixed
                                                                                                                Shanty towns on the                   for so long you commonly get
                                                                                                                                                                                           make themselves a visible target
                                                                            can get diced chicken to go.                                                                                   for car-jackers, most members
                                                                                                                hills everywhere?                     16 shades of white to black to
                                                                                                                                                                                           of the upper class prefer regular
                                                                                                                                                      Indian to Asian. Sociologists
                                                                                                                                                                                           cars.
                                                                            Reckless driving?                                                         consider this mixture a meta-
                                        Beach vendors?                      Since most Brazilians bought                                              race, since a true genetic melting
                                                                            their license, or forgot most                                             pot is still at work, decanting
                                        Just like the street vendors, the                                                                             weak genes and physical traits.
                                        beach vendors tend to offer
                                                                            of the rules and regulations,                                                                                  What’s the deal
                                                                            everyone drives like its Super
                                        more practical stuff like snacks,                                                                                                                  with consuming beer
                                                                            Nintendo. Interestingly, every
                                        ice cream, beer or sunglasses.
                                                                            year there is one traffic law
                                                                                                                                                      Hot women by the side                anywhere?
                                        Forget the hammock guy.                                                                                       of the road?
                                                                            which is fashionable to follow.
     Flanelinhas?                                                           This year it is to not stop at      Why do the poor have the views,
                                                                                                                                                                                           I know, isn’t it great?
                                                                                                                                                      The tall, hot prostitutes are
     These are shines that watch                                            pedestrian crossing stripes. All    while the rich are locked down        state-of-the-art transvestites or
     your car for a few R$. You pay                                         other rules are ignored.            to the flat areas? A law from         transsexuals. Don’t fall in love.
     them R$2 and they don’t kick                                                                               when Brazil was still a colony
     your rear view mirror off; fair                                                                            is still in use, which prohibits
     and square. Each owns a block,                                         Blowing stoplights at               anyone from building on the hill
     and is responsible for whatever                                        night?                              sides, to allow Cariocas to have      Young people hanging
     happens to your car. Since that                                                                            a green view from wherever they
     is where they will permanently
                                                                            For safety reasons, most people     live. In the last 40 years, the       out in gas stations?
                                                                            slow down at red lights, check      hills have been overtaken by the      Gas stations have become a
     work for a few years, should
                                                                            for traffic, then speed up again,   poor, and the government has          gathering place for different
     something go missing, you can
                                                                            as stopping at a red light in the   had little luck stopping them.
     find them the next day, and open
                                                                            dark can be dangerous, due to
     a can of whoop-ass.
                                                                            car robbing.

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                                                                              Getting Around

     G     etting around in Rio is
           easy: just get in a cab!
     1 out of every 3 cars is a taxi
                                        Car Rentals
                                        Renting a car is not a good
                                        option unless you have a
     (or so it seems). What’s more:
                                        Brazilian escort who will be
     it’s cheap. You can go from
                                        driving you around. It does
     downtown to Ipanema for about
                                        become helpful if you are             are heading to, shuffle your way
     R$22 (US$11). From Ipanema
                                        planning on visiting Buzios,          in and tell the driver when he
     to Barra for about the same.
                                        Petropolis and Paraty (cars are       should let you out.
     Just remember to ask the taxi
                                        not allowed on Ilha Grande).
     driver if he knows how to get
     to where you want to go before                                           Subway
     you step in “voce sabe chegar      Chauffeur Service                     Of course,
     no …. “ pronounced “vo-say
                                        The classy option is always           there is also the
     sa-bee shay-gar no [insert place
                                        chauffeur service, available          subway, which
     here]…”. If he doesn’t know,
                                        outside 5 star hotels. Although       is very fast and
     take the next cab.
                                        their rates start at R$70 an hour,    convenient for
                                        some chauffeur services are also      those traveling
     Frescão                            accredited tour guides, making        between downtown and
                                        them an excellent alternative to      Copacabana.
     A safe and comfortable option
                                        guided tours.
     if you are going to or from the
                                        Marcelo Esteves (UK,ES)
     downtown area is to take the       9984-7654 or marafes@terra.com.br     Buses
     “Frescão”, an air conditioned
                                                                              The other less recommended
                                                                                                                                    Bus and Subway Map
     passenger bus that serves
                                                                                                                                    Between Downtown and
     the business commuters.            Vans                                  transportation method is the
                                                                                                                                    Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon
                                                                              public buses. Although a lot
                                        Another option, if you master
                                        a little Portuguese or some
                                                                              cheaper, these take longer (up                                      474
                                                                              to 55 minutes from downtown                           Between Downtown and Gloria,
                                        Spanish, is to ride the vans on       to Ipanema, where a cab would
                                        the beach routes. For R$4, you                                                              Catete, Flamengo, Botafogo,
                                                                              take 20 minutes) and are riskier,                     Humaita, Jd. Botânico and Gavea
                                        can go from Ipanema to Barra.         as crooks have been robbing
                                        Of course, if you are in a group      buses, and the mob sets one or                                      438
                                        of 4, you are better off taking a     two on fire when angry at the                         Between Tijuca, Maracana,
     They go for R$6 and run more       cab. Just signal a van that has the                                                         Downtown and Copacabana
                                                                              government.
     frequently during rush hours.      name of the neighborhood you                                                                              subway
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                                      Day Tours
                                       Here is the digested version:
                                       If you want to try a little of
                                       everything, this is what we
                                       recommend:
                                       Day 1: Sit on Ipanema beach all
                                       day and unwind.
                                       Day 2: Do a bike tour from
                                       Copacabana to Glória, stopping
                                       to go up Sugar Loaf.
                                       Day 3: Santa Teresa and
                                       Corcovado.
                                       Day 4: Hang-glide or paraglide,
                                       followed by a tour in a favela.
                                       Day 5: A cultural tour of
                                       downtown, Christ statue at
                                       sunset.
                                       Day 6: Eco-tourism hiking tour.
                                       Day 7: Diving in the Cagarras
                                       Islands.
                                       Day 8: (or Saturday): Joatinga
                                       beach, followed by body
                                       boarding lessons at Pepe beach
                                       in Barra.
                                       Day 9: (or Sunday): Ipanema
                                       beach. Maracanã at 5pm.

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     Relax: Ipanema
     The first thing anyone arriving in Rio should do is sit on Ipanema beach for at least a few hours. But of
                                                                                                                                most gifted cities, and
                                                                                                                                you are on vacation.
     course, you can’t just go to the beach - there is a little ritual to follow. Estimate Total Time (T): 8h Estimated Total   Now you can order a
     Cost (C): R$ 130 Best on: Sunny Weekday
                                                                                                                                beer. Ask for a beer
                                                                                                                                holder (“isopor”) as the
                                                                                                                                heat can warm up your beer
                                                                                                                                before you get half way through
                                                                                                                                it.

                                                                                                                                                                    If you want to try something        4
                                                                                                                                                                    different, look for “Uruguai”
                                                                                                                                                                                                            Email
                                                                                                                                                                    beach tent. He makes probably      Walk across to Visconde and
                                                                                                                                                                    the best chicken sandwiches        check your email at the closest
                                                                                                                                                                    in Rio, using his own “chimi-      internet cafe. Be sure to visit the
                                                                                                                                                                    churi” sauce. Don’t add the        updates section of our site:
     Beach Gear                                2   3                                   rocking caipirinhas, opt for                                                                                    www.rioforpartiers.com/updates.html
     First, buy yourself some fashion
                                                       Ipanema Beach                     Uruguai`s tent just to the left        You can try most of the stuff       peppers though.
                                               You can now finally go to                     of the Posto 9 life-guard          the beach vendors have to offer,
     conscious swimming gear
     as Brazilian beach fashion is             the beach. If you want                         post. A beach tent vendor         with the exception of the shrimp,   After the beach, wash off the      Window Browse
                                                                                                                                which tends to go bad under
     different from other countries’:          the hip young spot, look                       will find a chair for you
                                                                                                                                the sun.
                                                                                                                                                                    sand at the lifeguard station      Visconde
     swimming trunks are wide                  for the ”Celebridade”                         upon request (R$2 to R$3).                                             and head over to Benkei (sushi)
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Check out the shops along
     on the side, and bikinis are              tent by the big tall                      Plunk down and let the view                                                (A), Garota de Ipanema (steak
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Visconde de Piraja, walking
     medium-small triangles with a             coconut tree between Joana               sink in. Don’t order a beer just                                            and fries) (B), Delírio Tropical
                                                                                                                                                                                                       counter traffic till sundown. Cut
     horizontal straps.                        Angelica Street and Maria                yet. Butt-watch instead.                                                    (salads) (C), Big Nectar
                                                                                                                                                                                                       across to the beach to hopefully
                                               Quiteria. If you want to be                                                                                          (sandwiches) (D) for a late
                                                                                         You are in one of the world’s                                                                                 catch the sunset in Ipanema,
      1                                        neat good food and world-                                                                                            lunch.
          Breakfast                                                                                                                                                                                    drink in hand. Head back to the
                                                                         Mate tea w/ lemonade: A must
     Then go for a juice and “pastel”                                                                                                                                                                  hotel for a late siesta.
     (see page 150) at
     any of the juice
     bars on Visconde
     de Pirajá street.
                                                                                                                                                                                       2
                                                                                                                                           A                                                           D
                                                                                                                                                            C                     B            4
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    4

                                                                                                                                                                       2          3

                                                                                                                                                          “Celebridade”    “Uruguai”
                                                                                                                                                               tent           tent
                                                                             Ipanema girls
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     Relax: Pão de Açúcar & Schooner
     Although these neighborhoods don’t offer much to do, they offer a lot to see: Flamengo, Botafogo bay
     and Urca with Sugar Loaf. Visit Sugar Loaf, followed by a schooner boat tour. Est.Total Time (T): 8h Est.
     Total Cost (C): R$100 Best on: Sunny Weekday

     1 Breakfast
     Start off with an açaí and
     pastel at any juice bar
     close to where you are
     staying.
      2 Sugar Loaf
     Cab to Urca by 11am. Catch a
     cable car to the two peaks. Take
     your time, but around noon you
     should start heading down for
     lunch.

                                               RZ

      3 Lunch
     On the right corner of the praia
     Vermelha beach is a hidden
     military restaurant, open to the
     public, with a phenomenal view
     of Sugar Loaf mountain. At
     2:20pm you should be in a cab
     to the Marina da Gloria.
      4 Sunset Schooner
     Boat Trip
     Once you get to the Gloria
     Marina, look for the Marlin
     Yacht Shop, which offers the
     2 hour schooner tour which                                                                   4
     leaves at 3pm. For R$50 Marlin                                     3
                                                      2
     Yacht (page 52) will take you
     on a traditional Brazilian sail
     boat around the Guanabara Bay,
     hopefully catching the sunset.
     Marlin Yacht Boat Rental
     Contact: Roberto tel: 9986-9678
     marlin@marlinyacht.com.br      SPECIAL DEAL

     www.marlinyacht.com.br
                                  FOR OUR READERS
                                   CHECK FRONT FLAP                                                              View of Pão de Açucar (Sugar Loaf Mountain and
     Rio For Partiers                                                                                            Botafogo bay from Corcovado (Christ Statue)            Rio For Partiers
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