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MEAT ATLAS
Facts and figures about the animals we eat   2021
MEAT ATLAS Facts and figures about the animals we eat 2021 - Friends of ...
IMPRINT
The MEAT ATLAS 2021 is jointly published by
Heinrich Böll Stiftung, Berlin, Germany
Friends of the Earth Europe, Brussels, Belgium
Bund für Umwelt und Naturschutz, Berlin, Germany

Chief executive editors:
Christine Chemnitz, Heinrich Böll Foundation (project management)
Stanka Becheva, Friends of the Earth Europe

Managing editor, graphics research: Dietmar Bartz
Art director, graphic development: Ellen Stockmar

English edition
Editor: Paul Mundy
Proofreader: Rachel Glassberg

German edition
Chief sub-editor: Elisabeth Schmidt-Landenberger

Documentation and final editing: Andreas Kaizik, Sandra Thiele (Infotext GbR)

Contributors: Francesco Ajena, Isis Alvarez, Stanka Becheva, Reinhild Benning, Milena Bernal Rubio, Peter Birke,
Christine Chemnitz, Inka Dewitz, Thomas Fatheuer, Lukas Paul Fesenfeld, Harald Grethe, Carla Hoinkes, Heike Holdinghausen,
Philip Howard, Kristin Jürkenbeck, Kamal Kishore, Ilse Köhler-Rollefson, Silvie Lang, Jonas Luckmann, Bettina Müller,
Lia Polotzek, Thorsten Reinsch, Hanni Rützler, Maureen Schulze, Shefali Sharma, Achim Spiller, Lisa Tostado, Mia Watanabe,
Katrin Wenz, Sabine Wichmann, Stephanie Wunder, Anke Zühlsdorf

Cover image: Ellen Stockmar, image editing: Roland Koletzki

The views do not necessarily reflect those of all partner organizations.
The maps show the areas where data are collected and do not make any statement about political affiliation.

Editorial responsibility (V. i. S. d. P.): Annette Maennel, Heinrich Böll Foundation
1st edition, September 2021

This material – except the cover image, publication covers and logos – is licensed under the Creative Commons “Attribution 4.0
International” (CC BY 4.0). For the licence agreement, see https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/legalcode, and
a summary (not a substitute) at https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.en. Individual graphics from this atlas may
be reproduced if the attribution “Bartz/Stockmar, CC BY 4.0” is placed next to the graphic.

Friends of the Earth Europe gratefully acknowledges financial assistance from the European Commission (LIFE Programme). The sole
responsibility for the content of this document lies with Friends of the Earth Europe. It does not necessarily reflect the opinion of the
funder mentioned above. The funder cannot be held responsible for any use that may be made of the information contained therein.

FOR DOWNLOADS
Heinrich Böll Stiftung, www.eu.boell.org/meatatlas
Friends of the Earth Europe, www.friendsoftheearth.eu/meatatlas-2021
MEAT ATLAS Facts and figures about the animals we eat 2021 - Friends of ...
MEAT ATLAS
 Facts and figures about the animals we eat

                   2021
MEAT ATLAS Facts and figures about the animals we eat 2021 - Friends of ...
TABLE OF CONTENTS

                                                            16 MERCOSUR
                                                               TRADING AWAY THE ENVIRONMENT
                                                              The Association Agreement between
                                                              the European Union and the Mercosur
                                                              countries raises concerns with regards
                                                              to meat and feed, as well as the rainforest
                                                              and the climate. Meanwhile, the EU is worried
                                                              about cheap imports, and resistance
                                                              is growing. Whether the deal will actually
                                                              come into force is questionable.

                                                            18 PRODUCTION
                                                               PROBLEM FOODS
                                                               AND THEIR PRODUCERS
                                                              The world’s meat production has grown
                                                              rapidly, fed by rising demand and
    02 IMPRINT                                                made possible by technological advances
                                                              in livestock farming. But this has had
    08 INTRODUCTION                                           serious consequences for animal welfare
                                                              and small-scale producers.
    10 TWELVE BRIEF LESSONS
       ABOUT MEAT AND THE WORLD                             20 ABATTOIRS
                                                               CHOPPING BUT NOT CHANGING
    12 CONSUMPTION                                            Covid-19 outbreaks in abattoirs and processing
       EVERYDAY FOOD AND LUXURY GOOD                          plants are just the latest in a long list of
         The global demand for meat continues to              problems in the meat industry. Low wages,
         rise due to economic and population growth,          hard work, and precarious employment
         but at a slower pace than 10 years ago. Poultry      are the price that workers pay to supply us
         accounts for an increasingly large share of          with cheap meat. The industry is
         consumption. Large differences remain in             attempting to dodge its responsibility to
         consumption per capita between countries and         provide decent conditions for its staff.
         among population groups.
                                                            22 MEAT WASTE
    14 WORLD TRADE                                             A LOT LESS THAN THE WHOLE HOG
       IN LORRIES AND SHIPS                                   The meat industry used to be famous
         Trade in meat and live animals is relatively new     for using “everything about the hog except
         and growing fast. Disease outbreaks, sanitary        the squeal”. But a large proportion of
         restrictions and trade policies can lead to big      the livestock raised for food do not end up
         swings in trade flow. The big four players are       as food. Many die, or are killed, before
         China – which dominates import markets –             they reach the slaughterhouse, and even
         as well as the USA, Brazil and the EU, which         more meat is wasted between the factory
         provide most exports.                                and the plate.

4   MEAT ATLAS 2021
MEAT ATLAS Facts and figures about the animals we eat 2021 - Friends of ...
24 LAND CONFLICTS                                   of extra money, but may also mean more
   CUTTING DOWN FORESTS,                            work. And if selling eggs and milk becomes
   CARVING UP PASTURES                              more profitable, men very often take charge.
  In South America, natural vegetation is
  being turned into pastureland and               32 FEED
  monocultures to support an unsustainable           SOY, FOREST, AND SAVANNA
  form of livestock production. In Africa           More than one-third of all crops worldwide
  and Asia, a sustainable form of livestock         end up in the stomachs of livestock.
  raising is losing ground to industrialized        That includes one billion tonnes a year
  agriculture. Traditional local                    of soybeans and maize alone. The feed
  communities are on the losing end.                and livestock industries want to increase
                                                    that even further.
26 COMPANIES
   DOMINATING THE MARKET                          34 CLIMATE
   FROM FARM TO DISPLAY CASE                         A LIGHTER HOOFPRINT
  Global meat companies play a major role           Livestock’s share of global greenhouse
  in determining how meat and feed are              gas emissions is understated. The climate
  produced, transported and traded.                 footprint of the animals and the feed
  Food is big business: the 100 largest food        they need is significant. There are ways
  and beverage firms around the world               to change that.
  include 10 main meat producers and
  processors.                                     36 PESTICIDES
                                                     BANNED BY BRUSSELS,
28 FINANCE                                           ALLOWED IN THE AMAZON
   BIG BUCKS FOR BIG FIRMS                          Pesticide applications are on the rise across
  Big Meat attracts big money. Both private         the globe. Some of the most dangerous
  and public investors pour money into meat         substances have been banned in the
  and dairy corporations, further boosting          European Union, but are still being used on
  their market power and fuelling yet more          a large scale in other parts of the world.
  consolidation in an already concentrated          Many are intended for the cultivation
  industry. The environmental and social            of soybean and maize, which are destined
  damage caused by the industry is largely          mainly for use as livestock feed.
  overlooked.
                                                  38 WATER
30 GENDER AND POVERTY                                THIRSTY ANIMALS, THIRSTY CROPS
   YET MORE UNPAID WORK                             All animal products have a water footprint:
  In many countries, women do most of the           the amount of water needed to produce
  farm work, but they are not allowed to            them. It is not just the total amount
  make most of the decisions. They have to          that is important, but the types of water
  balance caring for their children and elderly     that are needed. There is enough
  parents with looking after the chickens and       “green” water. But the volumes of “blue”
  goats. Livestock can be a welcome source          and “grey” water should be kept low.

                                                                                                    MEAT ATLAS 2021   5
MEAT ATLAS Facts and figures about the animals we eat 2021 - Friends of ...
40 FERTILIZERS                                          of animal production, known as pastoralism,
       TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING                             is economically important and climate-
         Nitrogen pollution from livestock manure           friendly, but it is under severe threat.
         is an increasing problem in many parts
         of the world. Countries in the European         50 PASTORALISM IN INDIA
         Union have lots of ideas on how to reduce          RANGELAND, NOT WASTELAND
         such contamination of their environments.          India is the world’s largest exporter
         One approach is through closer monitoring          of buffalo, sheep and goat meat. Remarkably,
         of industrial livestock producers and              the majority of this output is produced
         restricting the amount of manure slurry            in traditional agropastoral systems.
         that crop farmers are allowed to apply.
                                                         52 ACTIVE STATE
    42 REWETTING                                            THE POLITICAL ECONOMY OF
       GIVE PEAT A CHANCE                                   TRANSFORMING THE MEAT SYSTEM
         Across the globe, peatlands are being              Representative surveys in various
         drained for farming and raising livestock.         countries have found a surprising amount
         But dried-out peat emits huge amounts              of public support for reduced consumption
         of greenhouse gases. Agricultural                  of meat. Policymakers must find the
         policy should initiate the transition to the       right package and sequence of measures
         climate-friendly use of these areas.               to stimulate the transition to a more
                                                            sustainable future.
    44 ANTIBIOTICS
       USELESS MEDICINES                                 54 THE EUROPEAN UNION
         Antibiotics help to treat many diseases.           COMMON LIVESTOCK POLICY
         The big problem: in both humans and                Intensive livestock production
         animals, pathogens can develop antibiotic          creates environmental and animal welfare
         resistance – a fatal danger. And in                problems. Reforms currently being
         industrial livestock production, these drugs       considered to the EU’s Common Agricultural
         are still not being used carefully enough.         Policy do not go nearly far enough to
                                                            resolve these. But improvements can be
    46 PANDEMICS                                            made even within the current system.
       DANGEROUS CONTACTS
         Livestock production and meat consumption       56 LABEL
         stimulate outbreaks of diseases that can           THREE STARS FOR A BETTER LIFE
         be transmitted from wild animals to humans.        Buy meat from a supermarket, and you
         Such zoonoses can have catastrophic                can probably choose between organic and
         consequences – as Covid-19 has shown.              non-organic. But with the non-organic
                                                            products, you have no way of telling whether
    48 PASTORALISM                                          the animal was treated well, or was stuck
       BOUNTY FROM A BARREN LAND                            in a pen with little room to move. Calls
         Mobile herders move with their herds or            are growing for meat labels that show the
         flocks in the remotest of pastures. This form      conditions under which the animals are raised.

6   MEAT ATLAS 2021
MEAT ATLAS Facts and figures about the animals we eat 2021 - Friends of ...
58 EU STRATEGIES                             66 ACTIVISM
   A GOOD START, BUT                            PRESSURE FROM BELOW
   COULD TRY HARDER                            Civil society is a sometimes
  As part of its Green Deal, the European      underestimated stakeholder in
  Commission has proposed a “Farm              the food system. Supporting
  to Fork Strategy”. This is the EU’s most     sustainable production and
  coherent attempt yet to respond to the       criticizing industrialized agriculture,
  fundamental challenges plaguing the          it influences public opinion and
  food system. But much will depend            habits and demands better policies
  on converting grand-sounding                 and international solidarity.
  words into actual policies.                  And it can hold governments and
                                               companies accountable for their
60 LAB MEAT                                    actions, while offering solutions.
   CELLSTOCK VS LIVESTOCK
  Lab-grown meat is a disruptive             68 SURVEY ON YOUTH
  innovation that could help resolve            CHANGING HABITS
  sustainability and health issues             Young people in Germany – the
  related to livestock, as well as             “Fridays for Future generation” – eat
  reduce the numbers of animals                less meat than their elders. Their
  farmed. But the sustainability gains         attitudes and habits are likely to steer
  do not yet match expectations.               food consumption and policy in
                                               the coming decades. Results of a
62 INSECTS AS FOOD                             representative survey.
   SNACKING ON SILKWORMS,
   LUNCHING ON LOCUSTS                       72 AUTHORS AND SOURCES
  Adding insects to our menus                   FOR DATA AND GRAPHICS
  could help overcome the world’s
  food supply problems. But the              74 ABOUT US
  industrial production of insects is
  controversial: would it be
  useful or dangerous?

64 MEAT SUBSTITUTES
   A NEW SECTOR EMERGES
  Vegan and vegetarian alternatives
  to meat are gaining popularity
  fast – making them tastier for
  big firms, too. Competition is likely
  to flare up around in-vitro
  meat: start-ups developing
  lab-grown products are sprouting
  everywhere.

                                                                                          MEAT ATLAS 2021   7
INTRODUCTION

    O
           ne of the key demands of
           Fridays for Future, the youth
           climate movement, is “Listen
                                              „      The expansion of
                                                     industrial agriculture
                                              at the expense of nature
    to science!” In the age of Covid-19,      puts our global health at risk.
    governments frequently consult
    scientists and adapt policies to their
    advice. Scientists have also been         slaughterhouses came to light during
    stressing for over a decade that a        the first and second waves of the
    climate- and biodiversity-friendly diet   Covid-19 crisis, when meat factories
    contains less than half the amount        turned into infection hotspots in many
    of meat consumed in industrialized        countries.
    countries today.

                                              T
                                                    he fact that the meat industry
    However, an ambitious and dedicated             keeps profiting throughout all
    political shift in agriculture and food         crises while being subject to little
    policy to tackle the climate crisis       regulation poses the question as to
    seems far away. The food and farming      whom governments really listen to.
    sector in industrialized countries,       While livestock corporations fuel the
    which accounts for about one-third        climate crisis, deforestation, pesticide
    of global greenhouse gas emissions,       use and biodiversity loss, and while they
    is far from doing its fair share to       drive people off their land, they are still
    reduce them.                              supported and financed by the world’s
                                              most powerful banks and investors,

    I
       f the climate crisis failed to ring    many of them from Europe. Policies,
       alarm bells, Covid-19 should have      on the other hand – be they on animal
       done so. The expansion of industrial   welfare, trade or climate – include
    agriculture at the expense of nature      very few restrictions on this damaging
    puts our global health at risk. The       industry. Strict, binding regulations for
    World Health Organization has been        meat producers are often only achieved
    underlining the dire threat to global     via citizens’ engagement – like the “End
    human health of zoonoses (infectious      the Cage Age” campaign. This European
    diseases transmitted via animals),        Citizens’ Initiative for a ban on keeping
    which are closely linked to industrial    animals in cages in the EU brought
    meat and feed production around           together over 170 organizations and
    the globe. Furthermore, the terrible      was supported by 1.4 million people.
    working conditions in                     Citizens have long grasped the problem.

8   MEAT ATLAS 2021
The results of a survey commissioned for
this report in Germany show that more
than two-thirds of the younger generation
                                               „     Laws and regulations
                                                     can steer our consumption
                                               decisions in favour of
reject today’s meat industry. Considering      sustainability and health.
meat production a threat to the climate,
they choose vegetarian or vegan diets
twice as often as the population as a whole.   It is clear that many (especially young)
And they see a need for action on the part     people no longer want to accept the
of the government.                             profit-driven damage caused by the
                                               meat industry and are increasingly

C
        ontrarily to what politicians might    interested in and committed to climate,
        claim, laws and regulations can        sustainability, animal welfare and food
        steer our consumption decisions        sovereignty causes. We consider this
in favour of sustainability and health.        an encouraging step for our future and
There are numerous instruments for             want to use this Atlas to strengthen
this: fiscal, informational and legal.         their commitment with information.
European and national food strategies

                                               T
should contain such instruments, as                 his Atlas is intended to support
well as those which support sustainable             all those who seek climate justice
livestock breeding and a transition of              and food sovereignty, and who
the industry towards more locally              want to protect nature. Revealing new
embedded models in order to create fair        data and facts, and providing links
and sustainable food environments. They        between various key issues, it is a crucial
should also reinforce environmental            contribution to the work done by many
and social laws as well as animal welfare      to shed light on the problems arising
legislation in order to shift the focus        from industrial meat production.
of current industrial meat production
to quality instead of quantity.

Eight years ago, we published the first        Barbara Unmüßig
Meat Atlas. Since then, a lot has changed      Heinrich-Böll-Stiftung
in Europe and globally. Industrial meat
                                               Olaf Bandt
has become a critical issue in society,
                                               Bund für Umwelt und Naturschutz Deutschland
the media and science. Consumers are
increasingly turning to vegetarian             Jagoda Munić
products or to sustainably produced meat.      Friends of the Earth Europe

                                                                                             MEAT ATLAS 2021   9
12 BRIEF LESSONS

            ABOUT MEAT AND THE WORLD
                       1   Global meat production is increasing. But to protect
                           BIODIVERSITY AND THE CLIMATE, the developed
                           world WILL HAVE TO HALVE ITS CONSUMPTION OF MEAT.

              2 More than one billion people around the world earn their living by
                KEEPING LIVESTOCK. Traditional and nature-friendly animal husbandry
                is coming under pressure from INDUSTRIALIZED AGRICULTURE.

                                       3   Almost two-thirds of the world’s 600 million poor livestock
                                           keepers are WOMEN. They face disadvantages because they
                                           have LIMITED ACCESS to land, services and farm ownership.

                       4 CONFLICTS over land are on the rise, in part because
                         of industrial meat production. More and more people
                         are being killed for defending the RIGHT TO LAND.

              5 The use of ANTIBIOTICS IN ANIMAL HUSBANDRY is resulting
                in more and more MICROBIAL RESISTANCE. This threatens the
                effectiveness of antibiotics, one of the most important
                types of treatment in human medicine.

                                       6   The leading producers of fodder crops are among
                                           the largest users of PESTICIDES – which contaminate
                                           groundwater and harm BIODIVERSITY.

10   MEAT ATLAS 2021
MEAT ATLAS 2021 / STOCKMAR
7   The five biggest MEAT AND MILK PRODUCERS
    emit the same volume of CLIMATE-DAMAGING
    GREENHOUSE GASES as Exxon, AN OIL GIANT.

                             8 RE-WETTING THE PEATLANDS that occupy
                               3 percent of EU farmland would
                               avoid climate-damaging gas
                               emissions by UP TO ONE QUARTER.

                                                                                                |||||| LIFE FOR
                                                        ||| FRIDAYS FOR
                                                                                                  LIVESTOCK ||||||      |||||| STOP!
                                                                   CLIMATE |||||

                                                |||||||||| FLYING: LEAVE IT TO INSECTS ||||||||||           ||||||| KOHLRABI, NOT COAL |||||||

          9 In many countries, habits, role models and ADVERTISING,
            along with cultural traditions, combine to promote meat
            consumption. The food industry is PROFITING from the status quo.

10 FINANCIAL INSTITUTIONS like public and private banks,
   pension, and investment funds, support industrial animal
   production with HUNDREDS OF BILLIONS of euros.

                   11 MEAT SUBSTITUTES can reduce
                      meat consumption. The market
                      is growing fast. PLANT-BASED
                      alternatives currently play a
                      big role; CELL-BASED meat – not yet.

    12 Despite the global impact of meat, no country in the world has a
       STRATEGY TO REDUCE CONSUMPTION or TRANSFORM PRODUCTION.
       Governments can play a major role through LAWS.

                                                                                                                             MEAT ATLAS 2021                            11
CONSUMPTION

     EVERYDAY FOOD AND
     LUXURY GOOD
     The global demand for meat continues to                                                                       Each person in Germany consumes an average of 60 kg a
     rise due to economic and population growth,                                                                   year, while in the USA and Australia it is more than 100 kg.
     but at a slower pace than 10 years ago.                                                                       Over the past several years, demand in some developed
                                                                                                                   countries has been declining slightly due to consumer con-
     Poultry accounts for an increasingly large
                                                                                                                   cerns about health, animal welfare and the environment.
     share of consumption. Large differences                                                                           The biggest growth in meat consumption will take place
     remain in consumption per capita between                                                                      in the developing world. According to the OECD, a club of
     countries and among population groups.                                                                        mostly wealthy countries, demand in the developing world
                                                                                                                   will rise by four times as much as in the developed world by
                                                                                                                   2028. Developing countries start from a much lower base

     W
              orldwide consumption of meat has more than                                                           than their developed counterparts but have faster-growing
              doubled in the past 20 years, reaching 320 million                                                   populations; nevertheless, their additional consumption
              tonnes in 2018. The global population has risen,                                                     will remain relatively low. This is especially clear in Africa,
     as have incomes; both factors contribute roughly equally                                                      where overall demand is rising very quickly, but consump-
     to rising demand for meat. That’s good news for the meat                                                      tion per person is expected to rise only slightly in the next
     industry: consumption is forecast to rise by another 13 per-                                                  10 years – from 17 to 17.5 kg per year.
     cent by 2028.                                                                                                     The most populous country, China, consumes almost
         But for many people around the world, meat is still a                                                     one-third of the world’s meat and has accounted for one-
     luxury item whose consumption depends heavily on in-                                                          third of the growth in consumption over the last 20 years,
     come. The global economic crisis caused by the Covid-19                                                       even though its per capita consumption is still less than
     pandemic has caused many people’s incomes to plummet.                                                         half that of the USA. Demand in China is likely to continue
     The World Bank estimates that the current crisis will push                                                    to rise, though at a much slower rate due to rising concerns
     97 million people below the poverty line, and many millions                                                   about obesity and a population that is set to shrink from
     more will suffer serious financial shortfalls.                                                                2030 onwards.
         This is also true for China, the world’s biggest meat                                                         In Africa and Asia, meat consumption will overtake pro-
     consumer. Along with another virus, African swine fever,                                                      duction. Imports will rise, especially in sub-Saharan Africa.
     Covid-19 is the main reason for the reduced consumption                                                       But the global rise in meat imports will largely be driven by
     of pork in 2020. The fight against the pandemic caused the
     Chinese economy to grow by only 2.3 percent in 2020 – the
     weakest pace since 1976.                                                                                                                  Although they have five times as many people,
         In most of the developed world, meat consumption has                                                                                        developing countries consume less than
     remained at a high and fairly constant level for decades.                                                                                        twice as much meat as developed ones            MEAT ATLAS 2021 / OECD, FAO

        A BAD EXAMPLE FROM THE RICH
        Meat consumption in developed and developing countries, by meat type, annual average 2017–19, in 1,000 tonnes

                                                                 beef and veal              poultry                                                                 per capita consumption
                                                                 pork                       sheep                                                                   (retail weight),
                                                                                                                                    68.6                            kilograms per year

                        29,300                            41,200                                     48,400               2,700
            developed countries          *
                                                                                                                                  total: 121,600

                                                                                                                                                                    26.6
                             40,200                                                 75,100                                                                  76,000                           12,300
            developing countries             *
                                                                                                                                                                            total: 203,600

        *
            according to current FAO categories, developed: Canada, USA, Europe, CIS, Japan, Israel, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand; developing: all others

12   MEAT ATLAS 2021
MEAT ATLAS 2021 / OWID
   LANDSCAPE, ECONOMY, TRADITION
   Meat consumption by country, per capita, 2017
                                                                                     Kilograms per year
   140                                                                                  less than 20
    kg
                                                                                        20 – 40
                                                                                        40 – 60                                                     USA
                                                                                        60 – 80
   120                                                                                  80 – 100
                                                                                        over 100

   100
                                                                                                       Brazil
                                                                                                                                                Germany
                                                                                                                                Italy
                                                                                                                     France
    80
                                                                                                                                           Britain
             Countries with over 50 million people by economic                                         Russia
             performance in US dollars and meat consumption                                                                             South Korea
                                                                          Vietnam
             in kilograms per year, 2017                                                                               Mexico
    60

                                                                                  South Africa         China
                                                           Myanmar
                                                                                                                                         Japan
                                                                           Philippines
    40                                                                                                Iran
                                                                                                                          Turkey
                                                                                    Egypt
                                                           Pakistan                                         Thailand
    20                                        Kenya

                           Ethiopia   Tanzania                                                   Indonesia
                                                        Nigeria          India
         DR Congo (no data)
     0
                                              Bangladesh
         0        1,000               2,000                      5,000            10,000                    20,000                         50,000              100,000
                                                                                                                                                              US dollars

                                                                                               A general rule: the richer a country is, the more meat
Asia (outside of China). The region as a whole is expected to                               its inhabitants consume. But other factors, like climate
account for around 56 percent of world trade by 2029.                                             or religion, also influence per capita consumption
     The major global trends do not apply equally to all types
of meat. While the share of beef and lamb in total consump-
tion is declining, humans are eating more and more pork                          poorer parts of the world, extreme income inequalities are
and poultry. Poultry alone will account for around half of                       reflected in per capita meat consumption. Among the elite,
the global growth in consumption in the next decade. In the                      consumption levels are similar to those in the OECD coun-
USA, for example, per capita consumption of beef has fallen                      tries, while meat is still a luxury for the much more numer-
by about one-third in the last 30 years, while that of poultry                   ous lower and lower-middle classes. That is another reason
has more than doubled. This is due, among other things, to                       meat remains a status symbol for many.
its price advantage and lower fat content. Pork will account
for around 28 percent of the growth in the next decade, driv-
en mainly by rising consumption in Asia. Many Asian and
                                                                                                                                                                           MEAT ATLAS 2021 / OWID

                                                                                    TOP OF THE PECKING ORDER
African countries, however, consume very little pork due to
                                                                                    Increase in global consumption by type of meat,
the religious beliefs of a significant part of their populations.                   with bone, in million tonnes
     The country-level data on overall demand and average
consumption tell only part of the story. Within each coun-                                                 sheep and goats
try, demand varies greatly according to socioeconomic fac-                                                 cattle and buffaloes                                10.5
                                                                                    350                    pigs                                                15.8
tors. In industrialized regions, meat consumption per per-
                                                                                                           poultry                                             71.6
son tends to decrease with higher education and incomes.                            300
                                                                                                           other
In addition, women and young people tend to eat less meat                           250                                                                        120.9
than their older, male counterparts. In Germany, for ex-
                                                                                    200
ample, men on average eat around twice as much meat as
women per day. In the USA – where diets tend to be meat-                            150
heavy – men still lead consumption by about 50 percent. In                                                                                                     127.3
                                                                                    100

                                                                                     50

                          Meat consumption has increased markedly.                    0
                                    Growing prosperity is almost as                       1961      1970        1980          1990       2000       2010   2018

                            important a factor as population growth

                                                                                                                                                           MEAT ATLAS 2021                          13
WORLD TRADE

     IN LORRIES AND SHIPS
     Trade in meat and live animals is relatively                                                                trade in meat and meat products. But many countries still
     new and growing fast. Disease outbreaks,                                                                    use tariffs to protect their meat sector, and strict rules to con-
     sanitary restrictions and trade policies can                                                                tain livestock diseases hinder many developing countries
                                                                                                                 from exporting their meat products. This may be because
     lead to big swings in trade flow. The big four
                                                                                                                 they do indeed have problems with particular diseases, or
     players are China – which dominates import                                                                  because they lack the laboratory capacity and institutional
     markets – as well as the USA, Brazil and the EU,                                                            structures to prove that they are disease-free.
     which provide most exports.                                                                                     In any case, livestock diseases are the main reason for
                                                                                                                 the fragility of international trade flows in meat. Trade

     J
          ust under 38 million tonnes of meat, comprising                                                        may increase markedly over a very short period, or be cut
          around 11 percent of annual global production, are                                                     off abruptly. The temporary collapse in the market for
          traded across national borders each year. Although                                                     poultry in Southeast Asia with the emergence of bird flu in
     the vast majority of meat stays in the country where it is                                                  1997, and the complete collapse of British beef exports in
     produced, the share traded internationally is growing                                                       the 1990s after the spread of BSE in the United Kingdom,
     steadily. In the 1960s, less than 4 percent of worldwide beef                                               show how embargoes can dry up trade flows almost over-
     production was traded across borders; now, it is almost                                                     night. After the latter outbreak, the European Commission
     20 percent. For poultry the share is around 12 percent; for                                                 imposed a worldwide ban on exports of British beef and
     pork, 11 percent.                                                                                           beef products.
         The reduction of customs tariffs and quotas through the                                                     In contrast, global trade actually profited from the out-
     World Trade Organization is one reason for the growing                                                      break of African swine fever. The disease caused Chinese
                                                                                                                 pork production to drop by almost 20 percent. As a result, in
                                                                                                                 2019, China imported 2 million tonnes – 62 percent – more
                                                                                                                 meat than in the previous year. World trade rose by around
        EAST, WEST, HOME‘S BEST
                                                                                                                 6.9 percent. The biggest winners were Brazilian producers,
        Production and trade of meat,
        million tonnes                                                                                           which supplied record amounts of poultry and pork to Chi-
                                                                                                                 na. The EU also expanded its exports: in the first half of 2020,
         120
                                                                                                                 its pork exports were 15 percent above the same period in
                                                                                                                 the previous year, mainly because exports to China dou-
         110
                                                                                                                 bled. The situation was reversed in late summer 2020, when
                                                                                                                 African swine fever reached Germany. Customers such as
         100                                                                                                     China, South Korea and Japan stopped imports from Germa-
                                                                                                                 ny. The European Commission revised its positive estimate
          90                                                                                                     for exports for 2020, and forecast a drop of 10 percent by the
                                                                                                                 end of 2021.
          80                                                                                                         The meat trade is also a favoured means of exerting
                                                                                                                 political pressure. Russia banned the import of meat and
          70                                                                                                     cheese from Europe as a consequence of the EU sanctions
                                                                                                                 following the Russian annexation of Crimea. China slowed
          60
                                                                                                                 beef imports from Australia after the government in Can-
                                                                                                                 berra accused China of being the source of the Covid-19
                                                                                                                 pandemic. And Saudi Arabia banned poultry imports from
          50
                                                                                                                 Brazil as a warning to that country not to move its embassy
                                     beef              production                                                in Israel from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem.
          40
                                     pork              trade                                                         Overall, livestock disease, sanitary restrictions and trade
                                     chicken                                                                     policies are likely to remain the main factors driving or lim-
          30                                                                                                     iting the development of trade in meat. Things were differ-
                                                                                                                 ent in the past. In the 1960s and 1970s, very little meat was
          20                                                                                                     traded internationally due to its perishability. The big shift
                                                                                                                 occurred through technological advances that made frozen
          10                                                                                                     or refrigerated transport possible.
                                                                                        MEAT ATLAS 2021 / USDA

           0
               2017             2018                2019               2020      2021                            Though public debate over trade has
        2021: April forecast. Without stock changes. Import/export: mean value                                   been intense, the share of global meat exports
                                                                                                                 is relatively low and rising only slowly

14   MEAT ATLAS 2021
TOP 5 IMPORTERS AND EXPORTERS
  International trade in beef, pork and chicken, 2020, 1,000 tonnes

                                                                         1,467
                                                                                                                                                   1,412
                 Canada 1,543                                                                                                                              832
                                                             609 EU   4,546
                                                                                                                                                   1,005
                                                                                                                          5,281
                                                                                                                                                        Japan
                                                                               Ukraine 428                                        999
                                                                                                                 2,782
           1,516 USA      3,303                                                                                                                    549 554
                                                                              Turkey 440
                                                                                                                          China                  South Korea
                                  1,341
       945                                                                         618 Saudi Arabia                                           513 378
             Mexico 344
                                                                                                             India                              Hong Kong
       842
                                                                                                                                Thailand
                                                                                                            1,284
                                                                                                                                  874
                                             3,741
                                  Brazil
                                                     2,539
                                           1,178

                                                                                                                                          1,476 Australia

                                                                                                                                                                      MEAT ATLAS 2021 / USDA
                                                                                        imports          exports
                                                                                          beef              beef
                       Argentina 819
                                                                                          pork              pork
                                                                                          chicken           chicken

                                                                                                         Only a few countries are engaged strongly in
     The number of live animals traded has also risen stead-                                              the international meat trade. They include
ily. In 2017 – the year with the most recent data available                                                        Brazil, China, the EU and the USA
– almost 2 billion live animals were traded, and since 2003
the global market has doubled to about 24 billion euros.
Poultry make up by far the greatest amount of livestock                           Exports are also concentrated in a small number of
traded, though other species are also shipped live. Pigs are                  countries. The three biggest exporters, Brazil, the USA and
destined mainly for the USA and Poland, while most sheep                      the EU, will account for around 60 percent of all meat ex-
and cattle are sent to the Arab world. Overall, a large pro-                  ports by the end of the decade, according to FAO. Demand
portion of live animals are traded regionally. Some 70 per-                   for meat is already saturated in many developed countries
cent of the animals traded by the EU are moved from one                       and is likely to fall. Depending on how production condi-
member country to another, with each country handling a                       tions change, the EU and the US will increasingly focus their
different part of the value chain. Piglets born in Denmark,                   production on serving the export market.
for example, are taken to Poland for fattening. Land trans-
port is limited to a maximum of 8 hours a day. But there is
no time limit for animals loaded onto ships: their journey
                                                                                 BRAZIL: WORLD EXPORT CHAMPION
may last for weeks.
                                                                                 Share of global meat trade, percent
     Worldwide demand for meat is forecast to continue
to grow over the next decade. The OECD and FAO predict                            40              beef           pork           chicken
that global meat production will rise by almost 13 percent
                                                                                  35
between 2019 and 2029, and that international trade will
                                                                                  30
grow by 12 percent. The most important market player is
China, with its huge demand pulling in around one-third of                        25

world imports. Developing countries will also import more                         20
as their rapidly rising demand outstrips local supply, and as
                                                                                   15
many small-scale local producers struggle to compete with
                                                                                  10
cheap imports.
                                                                                                                                                                      MEAT ATLAS 2021 / USDA

                                                                                    5

                                                                                   0
                         A big portion of the meat that enters the                         2012   2013    2014    2015   2016   2017   2018    2019 2020 2021

                    international trade – either as living animals               2021: forecast

                           or after slaughter – comes from Brazil

                                                                                                                                                           MEAT ATLAS 2021                     15
MERCOSUR

     TRADING AWAY THE ENVIRONMENT
     The Association Agreement between the                                           EU in July 2020, forecasts that beef imports will rise by 30 to
     European Union and the Mercosur countries                                       64 percent under the individual provisions. In a study of its
     raises concerns with regards to meat and                                        own, the French government calculates that the facilitated
                                                                                     market access for beef from Mercosur could increase de-
     feed, as well as the rainforest and the climate.
                                                                                     forestation there by at least 5 percent a year over a period of
     Meanwhile, the EU is worried about cheap                                        6 years. Those are far-reaching consequences, even though
     imports, and resistance is growing. Whether                                     beef exports to the EU are a relatively small part of total pro-
     the deal will actually come into force is                                       duction in Mercosur – which exceed 11 million tonnes of live-
     questionable.                                                                   weight and 7.8 million tonnes of carcass weight a year.
                                                                                         Beef is already one of the main drivers of deforesta-

     I
        t took more than 20 years for the European Union and                         tion today. It leads to the destruction of the livelihoods of
        the Mercosur countries – Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay and                      indigenous and small-scale farming communities. In the
        Paraguay – to negotiate an agreement for their two eco-                      Amazon, cattle graze on 63 percent of all deforested land.
     nomic areas. The draft deal envisages eliminating customs                       Half the agricultural products shipped from Brazil to the
     duties, after a transitional period, on 92 percent of imports                   EU – mainly soybeans, beef and coffee – can be traced back
     from Mercosur to the EU, and on 91 percent of the trade go-                     to deforestation.
     ing in the opposite direction. That would greatly ease the ex-                      Exports of poultry and pork would also increase as a re-
     port of agricultural products such as ethanol and beef from                     sult of the agreement. Some 180,000 tonnes of poultry meat
     South America, and of items such as vehicles, machinery and                     per year could be imported into Europe duty-free, on top of
     chemicals from Europe to the Mercosur states. If the agree-                     the 392,000 tonnes allowed today. Another 25,000 tonnes
     ment is approved by the Council of the European Union,                          of pork would be added at a low-tariff rate. This would near-
     then the European Parliament and the parliaments of EU                          ly double the EU’s pork imports from Mercosur, which cur-
     member states, as well as the governments of the Mercosur                       rently total around 33,000 tonnes a year.
     countries, will also have to give their consent before it can                       Similar predictions have been made for soybeans, which
     come into force.                                                                are used mainly as livestock feed in the European meat in-
         Between 70 and 80 percent of all beef imports in the EU                     dustry. Brazil is the world’s biggest soy exporter. The EU’s
     currently come from Mercosur. The agreement would ex-
     pand this. On top of the 200,000 tonnes of beef that enter the
     European Union from the area every year, another 99,000                           Mercosur does not depend too greatly on the EU as an export
     tonnes could be imported with zero or minimal customs du-                          market. As long as China is a big customer, the EU will have
     ties. The Sustainability Impact Assessment, published by the                        limited influence on Mercosur’s forest protection policies

         EUROPE – NOT THE CENTRE OF THE MERCOSUR WORLD                                                                                      43.3
         Mercosur member countries’ foreign trade: share of food- and feed-related exports to the EU and the world,
         percent of total trade, 2019                                                                                                     5.3
                                                                              commodities
                  food and feed exports to the EU                   exports to EU exports to the world                     35.3
                  food and feed exports to the world                                    meat
                                                                                                                                   Paraguay
                                                                                        soybean oil
            width of bars: total trade volume, billion euros                            soybeans                    Uruguay
                                                                                        maize                                            19.1
                        30                    8           1.5  1                                                        14.6
                                                                                                                23.0
                                                  21.3                                      21.7                                  21.3
                                    Brazil
                                                   2.7                                                              5.5
                                                                                   Argentina                                        11.6
                                                                                            9.1                                            4.7
                                                                                                                                                   MEAT ATLAS 2021 / EUROSTAT, COMTRADE

                           11.0                11.2
                                                                                                                        20.7
                                                                               8.1                                                       14.2
                           2.8                                                             5.2                   17.5
                                                                               1.0
                                               0.4                    0.1                                                           5.4
                            5.6                                       0.2
                                                                                           5.0
                                                7.0                            6.7
                                                                                                                                    4.3
                            2.6                                                            2.4
         differences due to rounding

16   MEAT ATLAS 2021
UNEQUAL TRADERS
  Mercosur and the European Union compared

              population 2021*
                                                                                                                      European Union
              gross domestic product 2021*

                                  Mercosur

                                              2,002
              Paraguay
                                  Brazil
                                               billion US dollars
                                                                                                                                  17,371
                                                                                                                                     billion US dollars

                                  Uruguay                                                           population:
                                                                                                    448 million

                   Argentina
                                                                       population:
                                                                       270 million

              Europe’s trade importance for Mercosur, 2019                             Latin America’s trade importance for the EU, 2019

             Latin America                                                                                                         Latin America
           and the Caribbean                                                                                                     and the Caribbean
            (non-Mercosur)                                                                                                      (including Mercosur)
                                               Europe (including EU)

                                                                                                                     other
                                                                                     Europe (including
                                                                                      intra-EU trade)

                                                                                                                                                           MEAT ATLAS 2021 / WIKIPEDIA, ITSY
                                             other                                                                      Eastern Asia
           Eastern Asia

                                               Northern America                                                         Northern America

   *
       estimate. EU: without UK

                                                                                                     In theory, international trade talks take place
Sustainability Impact Assessment predicts that imports of                                      between equal partners. In reality, the less dependent
soybeans and other oilseeds from Mercosur could rise by                                              partner has most of the advantages on its side
up to 5.9 percent, with serious ecological consequences. Ac-
cording to a 2019 study, almost two-thirds of the pesticides
sold in Brazil are applied in soybean and sugarcane cultiva-                         cause of falling prices. Non-governmental organizations
tion. The deal with the EU would eliminate duties on pesti-                          criticize the preferential treatment given to pesticide ex-
cides imported into Mercosur, which may now be as high                               ports, as well as the consequences for the climate. More and
as 14 percent. Trade in pesticides would be strengthened,                            more EU member states are also expressing scepticism or
to the benefit of the European and especially the German                             even criticism. In France, the Netherlands, Belgium, Ireland
chemical industry.                                                                   and Austria, governments and parliaments agree that the
    The EU–Mercosur agreement would not only have a                                  agreement cannot be ratified in its current form. The Ger-
negative impact on forests and biodiversity in parts of South                        man chancellor has also expressed concerns.
America. It would also harm the climate. More carbon diox-                               In a non-binding resolution, the EU Parliament voted for
ide would be emitted because of further deforestation and                            changes. The EU Trade Commissioner, Valdis Dombrovskis,
increased production and transport. The French impact as-                            has stated that the agreement would not be reopened and
sessment even shows that under such conditions, the pro-                             renegotiated. Amendments would be limited to protocol
duction of a kilogram of beef is responsible for four times                          annexes, roadmaps and similar details. This has been the
the greenhouse-gas emissions as the equivalent in Europe.                            case for other EU agreements. The ratification process has
    It is not yet certain that the agreement will actually                           already been put on hold until after 2021. But that does not
come into force. The amount of criticism is too great. Farm-                         mean it has been put on ice, as Bernd Lange, Chair of the EU
ers in Europe fear that they will not be able to compete be-                         Parliament’s Trade Committee, has emphasized.

                                                                                                                                                MEAT ATLAS 2021                                17
PRODUCTION

     PROBLEM FOODS AND
     THEIR PRODUCERS
     The world’s meat production has grown                                                                    ing point. The continent now produces around 20 million
     rapidly, fed by rising demand and                                                                        tonnes of meat a year.
     made possible by technological advances                                                                      The increases in productivity over the last decades are
                                                                                                              mainly a result of technical innovations. Fewer and few-
     in livestock farming. But this has had
                                                                                                              er animals are raised on pasture. A large proportion of
     serious consequences for animal welfare                                                                  meat comes from livestock kept indoors or on feedlots,
     and small-scale producers.                                                                               where large numbers of animals are penned in a small
                                                                                                              outdoor area. Intensive and industrial management

     F
           or the first time since 1961, global meat production                                               have increasingly replaced extensive production meth-
           did not rise in 2019, but actually fell by 2 percent to                                            ods in many countries. Innovations in the fields of animal
           325 million tonnes. The main cause was not declining                                               genetics, management and the use of antibiotics have
     demand, but an outbreak of African swine fever. In China,                                                permitted individual farms to raise more and more animals,
     this pig disease led to a 10 percent decrease in meat produc-                                            and to increase the amount of meat each animal produces.
     tion, and over 20 percent less pork output.                                                                  While production in most of the developed world is
         Before the outbreak, China produced twice as much                                                    largely mechanized, two types of systems still exist in the
     pork as the European Union and more than five times as                                                   global South: small-scale, extensive producers alongside
     much as the United States. Despite the slump in output, Chi-                                             capital-intensive industrialized enterprises. The Interna-
     na remains the world’s biggest meat producer, at over 88                                                 tional Livestock Research Institute estimates that about
     million tonnes a year, way ahead of the USA, the EU, Brazil                                              600 million people earn their livelihoods from small-scale
     and Russia.                                                                                              livestock production. They sell their animals to customers
         Looking back, global meat production has grown rap-                                                  in local markets, or raise them for home consumption. They
     idly over the past few decades. In the 1970s, it totalled just                                           come into contact with the global value chains of industri-
     one-third of current levels. At that time, the EU and USA
     led the list of producers; however, they were overtaken by
     China by 1990. This country has boosted output more than                                                                     China drastically reduced its pig meat production
     tenfold in the last 50 years. Production in Africa has also                                                                in 2019 due to an African swine fever outbreak. But
     quadrupled since the 1970s, but from a relatively low start-                                                               growth continues to rise in many parts of the world

                                                                                                                                                                                                        MEAT ATLAS 2021 / OWID, FAO
        BOOM BUSINESS
        Trends in meat production in major production countries and selected
        individual EU member states,* million tonnes
            90                                                            China                                   9

            80                                                                                                    8                                Germany
                                                                                                                                                                                               Spain
            70                                                                                                    7

            60                                                                                                    6

            50                                                                                                    5                                                                     Poland
                                                                                                                                                    France

            40                       EU-28                                                                        4                       Italy

            30                                                                Brazil                              3

            20                                                                                                    2
                                                                                                                                                                          Netherlands
                           USA                                                             Russia
            10                                                                                                     1
                                                                                                     India

             0                                                                           Argentina                0
                 1961     1970          1980          1990         2000           2010           2021                  1961   1970          1980          1990          2000          2010       2019
        *
            including United Kingdom. 2020: estimate, 2021: forecast. Germany pre-1990: including East Germany. Reduction of East German meat production after unification with West Germany

18   MEAT ATLAS 2021
MEAT ATLAS 2021 / OECD, FAO
  FOR ALL THE PORK IN CHINA
  Largest producing countries of major animal products, annual average 2017–19,
  in 1,000 tonnes
                                                                                                                                  50,500
                                                                             23,100

                            21,800                                                                            5,000
                                                                                                         3,700
                                                                                                      1,600
                                                                                                                  230
                                                                                   13,200
                                                                                                          Russia
                        11,900

                   11,800
                                                                           7,300

                                                                                       650
                                                       13,800                                                           China
                                     70
                                                                               EU-27*
                           USA
                                               9,100                                                          3,700
                                                                                                      2,500
                                                                                                         300      740
                                                                                                                                        20,400
                                                 4,000                                                    India
                                                            120

                                                   Brazil

                         2,900
                                     2,100
                               600        50
                              Argentina
                                                                                                                                6,500
                                                                                                                                           4,800

                                                                  cattle     pigs           poultry   sheep
  *
      EU 27 without United Kingdom

                                                                                                                     The production of meat and milk
al meat production if they lose their local market share to                                                   results not only in food, but in problems
– sometimes cheaper – industrial products.                                                                             for people and the environment
     Looking into the future, the Organisation for Econom-
ic Co-operation and Development (OECD) predicts that
global meat production will continue to grow, though at a                          of global meat production. Today, it is 35 percent. In the
somewhat slower rate. It is expected to increase by another                        next 10 years, poultry is expected to make up almost half of
40 million tonnes a year by 2029 – one year before the tar-                        the increase in total meat output. Low production and retail
get year for the Sustainable Development Goals. That would                         costs, as well as a short production cycle, have led to chicken
take the total output to around 366 million tonnes a year,                         being the meat of choice for producers and consumers alike.
unless policy changes intervene. Although 80 percent of the                        Moreover, the genetic changes that have been achieved
growth is likely to take place in the global South, the biggest                    in poultry breeding eclipse those in other livestock spe-
producers will remain China, Brazil, the USA and the mem-                          cies. Comparisons with traditional breeds show that high-
bers of the European Union. By 2029 these countries might                          performance breeds grow four times faster but need only
still produce 60 percent of worldwide meat output. But In-                         half as much feed. But precisely these breeding develop-
dia, a country that produces and consumes relatively little                        ments can have serious health consequences for the birds,
meat, has markedly increased its poultry production and is                         and therefore attract criticism from animal welfare organ-
now one of the world’s 10 largest poultry producers.                               izations. For example, rapid weight gain can lead to joint
     While the three most important types of livestock are                         and foot problems and bone inflammation.
pigs, cattle and poultry birds, the distribution of livestock                          The industrialization of livestock farming and the ris-
species varies considerably around the world. Countries                            ing numbers of farm animals require more and more feed
with large Muslim and Hindu populations produce and con-                           made from cereals and oilseeds. This in turn makes it nec-
sume very little pork, while pigs account for a large share of                     essary to convert forests and pastures into arable land. Its
production in China, the EU and the USA.                                           negative effects on the climate and the environment have
     Poultry remains the fastest-growing sector in the meat                        made meat one of the most problematic consumer goods
industry. Just 50 years ago, it accounted for only 12 percent                      in the world.

                                                                                                                                             MEAT ATLAS 2021                          19
ABATTOIRS

     CHOPPING BUT NOT CHANGING
     Covid-19 outbreaks in abattoirs and                                                                       workers in the Brazilian meat industry were infected, and
     processing plants are just the latest in a                                                                dozens died in the first wave of the pandemic. Poultry plants
     long list of problems in the meat industry.                                                               belonging to the world’s largest meat companies, JBS and
                                                                                                               BRF, were criticized for refusing to provide their workers
     Low wages, hard work, and precarious
                                                                                                               with the necessary equipment to protect them against infec-
     employment are the price that workers pay                                                                 tion. The authorities in Rio Grande do Sul linked one-third
     to supply us with cheap meat. The industry                                                                of all Covid-19 cases to local cold-storage facilities. In Mato
     is attempting to dodge its responsibility                                                                 Grosso do Sul, one-quarter of the workers in a cattle abattoir
     to provide decent conditions for its staff.                                                               owned by JBS tested positive for the virus. At the main facto-
                                                                                                               ry of Tönnies, Germany’s biggest pork processor, more than
                                                                                                               1,500 of its 6,100 staff were found to be infected.

     I
        n early 2020, it emerged that over 200 of the 3,700 em-                                                    The Covid crisis has shined a spotlight on the poor work-
        ployees at Smithfield in Sioux Falls, one of the biggest pork                                          ing conditions in the meat-processing industry around the
        processors in the US, had been infected with Covid-19.                                                 world. A long list of factors has contributed to the spread
     After an intervention by the federal government, the plant                                                of the virus in the industry, including a lack of social dis-
     was classified as a “critical infrastructure industry” and was                                            tancing, poor housing conditions for workers, a lack of in-
     not closed immediately on the grounds that a shutdown                                                     spections, cold temperatures, and insufficient ventilation.
     would lead to supply shortages. It was only after 700 workers                                             Management, on the other hand, likes to blame the workers
     had contracted the virus that production was finally halted                                               for the disease outbreaks. Even when there were cases of
     for three weeks.                                                                                          tuberculosis in German plants in 2018 and 2019, manag-
         Sioux Falls was no exceptional case. Mass infections of                                               ers denied responsibility. During the Covid-19 crisis, politi-
     workers occurred in numerous slaughterhouses and meat                                                     cians and managers have used racist stereotypes of migrant
     processing plants around the world. Tens of thousands of                                                  workers to “explain” the infections: the “living conditions of
                                                                                                               certain cultures” are supposed to make workers want to live
                                                                                                               close together.
                                                                                                                   Criticism of the labour conditions in the meat industry is
         LARGEST SLAUGHTERHOUSES AROUND THE WORLD
                                                                                                               by no means new. In many countries, slaughterhouses em-
         Selected abattoirs by capacity, area or year founded
                                                                                                               ploy people whose residence status forces them to accept
                                                                                                               low wages and poor working conditions. In many parts of
             The world’s largest abattoir by capacity is a plant in
             Tar Heel, North Carolina, USA. Built in 1992 and operated                                         Europe, labour turnover rates are correspondingly high.
             by the Chinese-owned Smithfield group, it can slaughter                                           A large proportion of the staff in the meat sector are cross-
             36,000 pigs daily.                                                                                border or migrant workers from both within and, increas-
                                                                                                               ingly, from outside the EU. The work is frequently physical-
                                            In Europe, the Italian-owned                                       ly demanding with repetitive hand movements, excessive
                                            Litera Meat plant in Binéfar                                       working hours and exposure to health hazards.
             In China’s decentralized       near Huesca, Spain, opened                                             A report by EFFAT, a European trade union federation,
             industry structure, its        in 2019 with a capacity of
                                                                                                               warns that many workers are employed through temporary
             largest hog slaughter-         more than 22,000 pigs per
             house is set to open           day, or 160,000 a week, sur-                                       work agencies or subcontractors that enable the meat plants
             in late 2021. Techbank         passing what was previously                                        to escape liability. In some countries, the subcontractors
             Food’s plant in Fuyang,        the continent’s largest plant,                                     operate as bogus cooperatives, with the workers classified
             Anhui province, will           operated by Danish Crown                                           as self-employed. The practice of “posting” workers – em-
             have a capacity of             in Horsens, Denmark, by
                                                                                                               ploying workers in one country but having them perform
             14,000 pigs per day.           60,000 animals per week.
                                                                                                               the work in another – still occurs, though it is becoming less
                                                                                                               common. “Letterbox” companies are also frequent. These
                                                                                                               have a mailing address in one country but conduct their
                                            India’s largest abattoir by                                        business in another. Such tricks enable employers to evade
                                            capacity is said to be the                                         or circumvent stricter regulations concerning remunera-
             One of the world’s largest     municipal plant in Deonar                                          tion, social security and taxes in the host country.
                                                                             MEAT ATLAS 2021 / MEDIA REPORTS

             cattle slaughterhouses         near Mumbai, slaughtering                                              The enormous expansion of meat production facilities
             is a plant in Dakota City,     6,000 goats and sheep per
                                                                                                               and abattoirs in recent years has been accompanied by ris-
             Nebraska, USA. Operated        day. The largest plant by area
             by Tyson Fresh Meats,          is Al-Kabeer’s 400-hectare
             it processes more than         buffalo slaughterhouse in
             7,000 cattle a day.            Rudraram, Hyderabad.                                               The enormous economy of scale in slaughterhouses
                                                                                                               has resulted in huge units with a
                                                                                                               far-flung network of dependent animal suppliers

20   MEAT ATLAS 2021
MEAT ATLAS 2021 / FAOSTAT
  LIVING RAW MATERIALS FOR MEAT FACTORIES WORLDWIDE
  Animals slaughtered, 2019, by region, major livestock, million (mn) and billion (bn) head

            cattle
            pigs
            sheep and goats
            chickens                                                                                                  724.2 mn
                                                                    325.5 mn

                                                        77.4 mn

                                                                40.0 mn
                                                                                                          93.3 mn
                  North America                                        Europe
                                                                                                      Asia
          151.8 mn
                         3.8 mn                                                                                            659.6 mn

               63.4 mn

               28.6 mn

      7.1 mn      12.5 mn

       Central America & Caribbean

                                                                                                                         Oceania

                                                                           Africa                                            55.8 mn
                                      South America                                     280.1 mn
                                                                                                                                       8.5 mn
                                73.7 mn                                   41.7 mn                                                  13.2 mn

                                        21.3 mn                                           36.2 mn
                     60.5 mn

                                                                          32.7 bn   Asia
                                                                          11.5 bn   Europe
                                                                          10.1 bn   North America
                                                                           9.3 bn   South America
                                                                           4.7 bn   Africa
                                                                           2.9 bn   Central America & Caribbean
                                                                           0.8 bn   Oceania

                                                                                                            75 billion animals – the vast majority
ing numbers of migrants working in the industry. It is also                                           of them poultry birds – are killed every year
marked by the internationalization of corporate structures.                                               to satisfy humankind’s hunger for meat
For example, Smithfield, the largest pork producer in the
Western world with over 100,000 employees, is now part
of WH Group, which is headquartered in Hong Kong. JBS, a                        industry, European food trade unions are demanding that
Brazilian beef producer firm with over 200,000 workers, has                     the EU create a legally binding instrument to ensure that
been active in the US market for years. In the USA, the dete-                   employers are jointly liable throughout the whole subcon-
rioration in working conditions has been accompanied by                         tracting chain. This should provide for sanctions, back pay-
fierce disputes. Between 1994 and 2008, Smithfield was the                      ments and compensation if the industry does not respect la-
scene of a long-lasting battle over union rights and decent                     bour laws. A European solution is needed because the sector
working conditions. Even though this struggle ended in de-                      is mobile. The boom in the German meat industry is rooted
feat for the workers, demands for better labour rights, social                  in the shift in production from Denmark and the Nether-
rights and secure residence are still on the table.                             lands, where wages are higher and collective agreements
    To put an end to the poor working conditions in the meat                    generally protect workers better.

                                                                                                                                       MEAT ATLAS 2021                        21
MEAT WASTE

     A LOT LESS THAN THE WHOLE HOG
     The meat industry used to be famous for                                          alive for fattening. In France, over 50 million male chicks are
     using “everything about the hog except                                           killed each year directly after they hatch.
     the squeal”. But a large proportion of the                                            On the other hand, performance-oriented breeding and
                                                                                      poor husbandry conditions lead to animals dying during the
     livestock raised for food do not end up as food.
                                                                                      rearing stage. Denmark, a much smaller country than Ger-
     Many die, or are killed, before they reach                                       many, Spain and France, has the fourth highest pig popula-
     the slaughterhouse, and even more meat is                                        tion in Europe. The average litter size for pigs has risen in re-
     wasted between the factory and the plate.                                        cent years to 19.4 piglets per sow – five more within just one
                                                                                      decade. The problem is that the average sow has only 14 or

     A
           t the start of the 1990s, Europeans were shocked to see                    15 functioning teats. As a result, the piglets are smaller and
           photos of hundreds of thousands of dead cattle. Yet                        more delicate, and many die at birth or within the first few
           BSE, or “mad cow” disease, was not the last disease out-                   days of life. The mortality of suckling piglets in Denmark is
     break to result in the culling and disposal of large numbers                     around 15 percent, or about 3 million dead animals a year.
     of animals that had been intended for human consumption.                         In all, 28 percent of animals die at various stages of pregnan-
     After BSE came bird flu, and after that, African swine fever.                    cy, rearing and fattening.
     Experts estimate that this last disease, which is highly conta-                       In Germany, the average litter size is just above 15. Still,
     gious in pigs, resulted in the deaths of up to 200 million pigs                  around 16 percent of all suckling piglets die. Because of Ger-
     in China, either directly or culled as a precaution.                             many’s higher pig population, that adds up to 8.6 million
         Even without such disease outbreaks, many animals die                        dead piglets a year.
     before they can be taken to the abattoir. In France alone,                            A lot of loss occurs after slaughter too, as by no means do
     more than 200 million animals are killed every year without                      all parts of the animal end up on dinner plates. Because meat
     being used as meat. These include animals that die while
     they are being reared, or that are culled and disposed of for
     economic reasons. In Germany, up to 200,000 male dairy                                             Offal such as pig heads and chicken feet, worth
     calves and 45 million male chicks of layer breeds die because                                     nearly $30 billion a year, is scorned in producing
     they would produce too little meat, so are not worth keeping                                         countries but finds a ready market elsewhere

        UNWANTED AT HOME, BUT WELCOME ABROAD
        Main offal exporters, 2020, million US dollars                                                                Global offal markets and main
                                                                                                                      importer, 2020, million US dollars
                          bovine animals, swine, sheep, goats, other livestock                    2,660
                          poultry
                                                                                        755                               8,300
             1,460
                                                                                                                                     20,400
                                                                                                                          4,440
                                                                                        867
                                                                       348                                                        4,487
                          409                                      Denmark
                                                                                      Germany
                        Canada
                                                                                                 Poland
             3,840                            633            808                                                                            total
                                                                                                                                            main importer
                  USA                                      Belgium
                                                                                              654
                                             3,130                                                                           China and Hong Kong
                                                                826           599
                                                                             France           2,610
                                                               Spain

                                                                                                                    802

                                                                                                                  Thailand
                                                                                                                                                            MEAT ATLAS 2021 / TRIDGE

                                             Brazil
                                                                                         Netherlands                                        633
                                                                                                                                          Australia

22   MEAT ATLAS 2021
LOSSES BETWEEN STALL AND STOMACH
  Meat and dairy waste per food supply chain stage in the EU, 2011,*                                                                      Meat/dairy available in
  million tonnes                                                                                                                          the EU, million tonnes,
                                                                                                                                          and percentage wasted
        primary production         processing, manufacturing           retail and distribution               consumption
                                                                                                                                                            23 %
                                                                                                                                            meat     61.7
      0.5          2.9               1.7                                              9.0

                                                                                                                                                                        MEAT ATLAS 2021 / CALDEIRA ET AL.
     meat                                                                                                                                                   5%

      0.5    1.1   0.4              4.8                                                                                                    dairy    150.2
     dairy
                                                                                  *
                                                                                      most recent data available, data still in use

                                                                                                     Meat and dairy waste is highest among consumers in
has become relatively cheap, consumers in many countries                                                   private households and restaurants. However,
have become choosy: they eat only certain cuts. Along with                                               non-edible waste somewhat distorts the picture
Romania, Poland has the lowest meat prices in the Europe-
an Union. The average Polish consumer ate 77.1 kilograms
of meat and offal in 2019, a rise of 9 percent over 2005. But                     value chain. In the developing world, better veterinary care
the consumption of fat and offal fell by 9 percent in the same                    and refrigeration would help. In the developed world, live-
period. Even if these animal parts are not thrown away but                        stock farmers can adopt husbandry methods that avoid high
are used in industry, they are no longer food.                                    losses, along with more robust breeds and, in pigs, smaller
    Poultry is becoming more and more popular. Per cap-                           litters. Multipurpose breeds of cattle and chickens would
ita Polish consumption in 2019 was 28.3 kilograms, some                           avoid the economic pressure to kill males. An increasing
21 percent higher than in 2005. Meanwhile, Poland has                             volume of somewhat dearer eggs from dual-purpose hens
become the largest poultry producer in Europe. EU citizens                        is now coming on the market. These breeds lay fewer eggs,
prefer chicken breasts; other parts, such as wings and drum-                      but the males also produce meat. From 2022 on, shredding
sticks, are often frozen and exported to Asia and Africa.                         day-old chicks will be banned in France. Germany and Spain
    Only 60 percent of a slaughtered pig in Germany ends up                       have gone a step further, deciding to ban the killing of day-
as cutlets or sausage on a plate. The parts not suited for hu-                    old chicks.
man consumption, such as bones, hooves and some internal                               The waste of food can be avoided primarily through a
organs, are rendered into food for pets or fish, used in the                      greater appreciation of its worth. Consumers could, for ex-
chemical or fertilizer industry, or turned into biofuel. Out                      ample, reflect on the need to use the whole animal, as used
of the 8.6 million tonnes of total slaughter weight in 2019,                      to be the case. Instead of always opting for steak or chicken
around 2.6 million tonnes of such “animal by-products”                            breast on the menu, they might occasionally choose a less
were used in these ways. Further losses occur during whole-                       popular type of meat or offal. That would also be a gain for
sale and retail trade, as well as at the consumption stage,                       culinary diversity.
as items pass their sell-by dates or food is prepared for con-
sumption but not actually eaten. In 2016, the most recent
data available, 11.9 percent of global meat production was
                                                                                         INVISIBLE DEAD
lost between slaughter and retail.
                                                                                         Sow and piglet mortality in
    That amounts to 39 million tonnes, or the equivalent of                              industrial pig meat production,
115 million cattle or 413 million pigs. Such high losses rep-                            EU, 2019, percent
resent an enormous waste of resources, as these animals                                                                                      7,1 % sow mortality
had to be reared and fed, even though they never ended up
as human food. While inadequate refrigeration is the main
problem in the global South in the developed world the
disposal of food that is fit for consumption is mainly to                                                                    13.2 % pre-weaning mortality
blame. Studies estimate that this accounts for between
4 and 11 percent of the quantity actually consumed in Eu-
rope. This is also because meat, with its comparatively cheap
prices, is becoming less and less valued as a type of food.
                                                                                                            3.3 % rearing mortality
    Losses and waste can be reduced at each stage in the
                                                                                                                                                                        MEAT ATLAS 2021 / AHDB

                                                                                                                            2.8 % finishing mortality
       The numbers of animals that die prematurely show the
 ruthlessness of the meat industry. They represent wasted feed                           including UK

   and land used to grow it, and a burden on the environment

                                                                                                                                                             MEAT ATLAS 2021                                23
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