What matters The price of beauty Money and the environment Sustainable consumption - Umweltbundesamt
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what mat ters
WHAT MATTERS 2015
The price of beauty Money and the environment
Sustainable consumption
Annual Report of the German Environment Agency
Abfall Consumption
Fashion Money
Stickstoff Verkehr
what mat ters The price of beauty Money and the environment Sustainable consumption Annual Report of the German Environment Agency
WHAT MATTERS 2016 VORWORT
Climate change mitigation and
mental policy goals have been brought together to restrict global warming to below 1.5°C, which
as “transformative goals for more sustainable will play a decisive role in the survival of many
development”. Humankind has recognised that island states. Alongside the long-term goal of
Sustainable Development Goals: these two goals cannot be viewed separately,
as they are closely intertwined in reciprocal
achieving net-zero greenhouse gas emissions,
they also decided to strengthen climate change
it’s all about implementation.
exchange with one another. adaptation measures and to channel the finance
flows in a more climate-friendly direction. The
By adopting the 2030 Agenda in autumn of adoption of the Paris Agreement on climate
last year, Germany, together with the other UN change in December 2015 therefore sends an
member states, committed itself to contribut- important message to the international com-
Maria Krautzberger
ing its share to global development before an munity and economy: starting now, it is our
President of the German Environment Agency (UBA)
international audience. Germany also needs joint goal to decarbonise economic and social
to make some progress in order to uphold this activity.
If you ask a child in a Bolivian village in the An- commitment and will face major challenges
des what it wants for the future, its answers will on its way to implementing the global Sustain- The order of the day for Germany, other states
differ in a number of ways from the responses able Development Goals by 2030. The objects and alliances is to now implement the decisions
given by a German child living in a big city. of these goals are already key focal points of and commitments made – in both the 2030
But they will both agree on one essential point: the work done by the UBA. Three essential Agenda and the Paris Agreement – by initiat-
they both want to grow up in a liveable world examples of this work are: conserving natural ing specific measures. Germany is assuming
without hunger, without poverty and without resources, establishing sustainable patterns of a major responsibility and a key role in this
environmental destruction – but with access consumption and production, and investigating process, as the utilisation of fossil carbons was
to high-quality education, health care and a the connections between the environment and what enabled Germany to reach its high level
pristine natural environment. human health. The main challenges posed by of development as an industrialised country in
the 2030 Agenda relate primarily to each state’s the first place. Due to its ability to find technical
Over the course of the past year, the interna- global responsibility. This means that Germany and social solutions to environmental problems,
tional community has taken decisive steps on is not just responsible for protecting the envi- Germany must now be prepared to assume this
the path to making a future like this possible. ronment in Germany and the EU, but also for responsibility and become a trailblazer of sus-
It has set itself essential ecological, social and the effects that its patterns of consumption and tainable development on its journey to becom-
economic development goals by agreeing to production have on people and the environ- ing a decarbonised, state-of-the-art industri-
the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development ment in countries far away. You will find more alised nation. From a German perspective, the
and the Paris Agreement on climate change. In detailed information about this in the sections first important step is to uphold the financial
September 2015, the United Nations Sustainable titled “The price of beauty” and “Sustainable commitments made to developing countries
Development Summit adopted the 2030 Agenda, consumption”. Moreover, another emphasis of regarding development, climate change mit-
which was followed a little more than three the 2030 Agenda is fighting climate change and igation and climate change adaptation, and
months later in December 2015 by the passing helping the states most affected by it to adapt to to ensure that a transfer of knowledge and
of the global climate change mitigation agree- it, which forms an important basis for sustaina- technology takes place. The world is watching
ment in Paris. Together, these two international ble development. the German energy transition as an important
agreements are the provisional culmination of process of transformation. We are committed
developments resulting from the Rio Confer- The adoption of the global Sustainable Devel- to implementing this transition quickly and
ence. opment Goals as an action plan for human wel- successfully.
fare, increasing opportunities and preserving
The overarching goal of the 2030 Agenda is to the planet, laid the foundation for the climate In Paris, it was determined that the climate pro-
initiate an overdue global process of transfor- change agreement in Paris. The 2030 Agenda tection measures announced by the states are
mation toward a sustainable future. Govern- forms a strategic framework for sustainable not yet sufficient to prevent a dangerous change
ments have agreed to address the issue of more development, of which climate change mitiga- in climate. For this reason, all states pledged
sustainable development in order to combat tion and climate change adaptation form an to review and improve their climate change
poverty, hunger, climate change, diminishing elemental part. The Paris Agreement marks the mitigation goals regularly. Germany will also
biodiversity and high resource consumption, provisional culmination of an international contribute to the global reduction of greenhouse
and thus to make it possible for both today’s and process that had already been in motion for over gas emissions. We must ask ourselves about the
future generations to lead fulfilled lives. The 25 years, in particular after the failure of the specific consequences this will have for us and
2030 Agenda has formulated 17 universal goals, Copenhagen climate summit. As an expression what impact our goals arising from the inter-
which apply to all member states, and 169 of unprecedented international unity, over 150 national obligations set in the Paris Agreement
targets, most of which signatories are to achieve heads of state and government convened in will have on German climate change mitigation
by the year 2030. One of the decisive differences Paris – more than had ever been in attendance goals, because now the time has come to initiate
between the 2030 Agenda and the Millennium at an international conference before. The goals the upcoming processes of transformation and
Development Goals that were in force until 2015 set in the agreement are just as historic: for the consistently further develop them. By adopting
is that the global Sustainable Development first time, all states committed to taking steps the 2030 Agenda and the Paris Agreement, the
Goals were formulated for all countries – that to mitigate climate change, not just industri- international community of nations has set
is to say, to the same degree for developing alised countries as had been the case until itself ambitious goals. It is important that the in-
countries and newly industrialised countries as then. In order to prevent the dangerous effects ternational community demonstrates unity and
for industrialised countries, including Germany. of climate change, they pledged to restrict the proves that multilateral processes can work,
They do not just target “poor” countries, as had increase in global mean temperature to well especially in times of global crises. We now
been the case up until now. Another difference below 2°C above pre-industrial levels. For the need to tackle these tasks, and the UBA will
is that both developmental policy and environ- first time, they also committed to make efforts also do its part.
2 3
WHAT MATTERS 2016 CONTENTS
Contents
The circular economy The UBA: plastics research
Page Page
6 73
The price of beauty Construction projects at the UBA
Page Page
11 85
Money and the environment The UBA
Page Publications
29
The UBA in figures
Externally funded projects
Page
95
Sustainable consumption
Page
51 Publication details and photo credits
Page 102
4 5
WHAT MATTERS 2016 THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY
We are using too much of this world. We are using it up. Steel, oil, generate sustainable economic growth – and to
create new jobs.
important point: more recycling. Recycling
reduces the need for primary raw materials,
cement, aluminium – we consume all of this and much more every and thus does not just make an important con-
The package is made up of two elements: tribution to resource efficiency, but also – and
day in construction, as fuel, as goods. The environmental impact is recommendations for waste legislation and in particular – to climate change mitigation.
immense. And our consumption keeps increasing because more peo- an action plan.1 One core element comprises
regulations that limit the amount of waste
It does so by cutting down on huge volumes
of greenhouse gases that are emitted, above
ple are living in the world and we humans keep consuming more and that is still being disposed of in landfills. In all, during the extraction, transportation and
Germany, it has been illegal to landfill untreat- processing of raw materials. Whatever cannot
more. We urgently need to reduce the amount of resources we consu- ed municipal solid waste since mid-2005. This be recycled should ultimately be incinerated in
me in order to preserve our world for coming generations. The circular has strengthened recycling and resulted in
the continued development of waste treatment
efficient plants, and the waste heat should then
be used to generate energy (energy recovery).
economy is already making a significant contribution in this regard. technologies.
We therefore welcome the Commission’s
At a UBA event in Brussels in March 2016,2 recommendation to restrict landfilling in
participants discussed the huge potential of a favour of optimally utilising resources and an
The concept of the circular economy means Since its inception, the German Environment
complete implementation of a circular econ- effective circular economy. In order to con-
preventing the dangerous impacts of waste Agency (UBA) has been working on reducing
omy in all member states, also in light of the tinue strengthening this approach further, it
production and waste management as far as the amount of waste generated, and ensuring
implementation of the Paris Agreement on would be expedient to set quality criteria – i.e.
possible, or at least extensively reducing them. the highest quality possible when recycling and
climate change mitigation. The first important standards for the quality of the waste that can
This includes, above all, not producing waste reusing waste. This is why we also keep up with
step towards achieving this is also among the be dumped – instead of the specifications envi-
in the first place. If the production of waste these developments on both a European and a
Commission’s proposals: a complete break with sioned up until now for the maximum possible
cannot be avoided, waste must be used as a domestic level, critically and constructively.
landfilling untreated municipal solid waste. It amounts of waste destined for the landfill. This
material if possible by harmlessly recycling
is especially important to stop disposing of or- would mean that components that could still be
it – where recycling makes ecological sense. In
ganic waste in landfills, as organic waste – for utilised are sorted out from the rest, that more
this way, materials can be used repeatedly and The circular economy in Europe
example from kitchen waste or grass cuttings – organic waste is composted and that residual
do not have to be mined or harvested anew or
primarily generates methane while it decom- waste is utilised to generate energy.
reproduced. If this is no longer possible, waste The European Union is currently discussing
poses in landfills, which is a greenhouse gas
can also be utilised in an environmentally how to continue developing a Europe-wide cir-
25 times stronger than carbon dioxide. If we
friendly way as energy, i.e. as fuel. Compared cular economy. A new Circular Economy Pack-
were to expand the utilisation of organic waste Utilising more plastics as materials
with disposing of waste, this reduces the use age has been available since December 2015.
throughout Europe as both a material and a
of fossil energy sources and emissions of fossil Its objective: to promote the circular economy,
source of energy, we could significantly reduce In Europe, and in Germany, there is still a lot
CO2. to improve international competitiveness, to
uncontrolled methane emissions. The second to be done in some respects with regard to
6 7
WHAT MATTERS 2016 THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY
the recirculation of plastics – or, to be more waste in the catering industry as a result of increase in the amount of recycling being car-
precise: their separate collection and recycling. these discussions.3 ried out, which is included in the plans for the
The plastics strategy being planned by the German Packaging Act (Verpackungsgesetz)
European Commission could provide a number The measures for reducing food waste from the and the amendment to the Commercial Waste
of important impetuses in this regard: it should Circular Economy Package also make reference Ordinance (Gewerbeabfallverordnung), will
improve the separate collection of plastics to the global Sustainable Development Goals help us to reach this goal.
waste, significantly increase recycling volumes of the United Nations. However, because they
and strengthen recycling in comparison to have not been adopted in legislative text, this From the view of the UBA, the planned Pack-
incineration and landfilling as a waste disposal goal remains legally nonbinding. In addition aging Act will provide some important focal
method. We take a positive view of the Commis- to this, the focus has shifted, in particular, points for strengthening the circular economy,
sion’s plan to create EU-wide quality standards to consumers and potential changes to their including an urgently needed increase in mate-
for secondary plastics and, alongside the issue behaviour, whereas other stakeholders are not rial-specific recycling quotas and the creation
of waste, to pay more attention to product being held to account as clearly. of an agency responsible for registration and
design as well. standardisation. In future, licence fees for
dual systems will be more closely linked with
This means that, in future, factors such as recy- Designing better products ecological criteria such as recycling and sorting
clability will be examined and relevant product properties, which will create incentives to
specifications will be created within the frame- Another important area in which action needs design packaging that is more compatible with The lifespan guaranteed by
work of the Ecodesign Directive. However, the to be taken in order to strengthen the circular recycling.
package does not contain any specific targets economy is product design, which forms an
manufacturers should be visib-
or measures for reaching the goal of improved important basis for the lifespan of technical Plans for the mandatory joint collection of le on the product.
recyclability. We therefore recommend that products in particular. The Circular Economy packaging and what is referred to as simi-
the Commission’s strategy paper stipulate that Package contains a range of recommendations lar-material non-packaging items made of met-
specific measures be examined. This concerns for improving products’ reparability. In par- al or plastics (e.g. toys, pots, kitchen sieves etc.)
firstly strengthening recycling, i.e. through ticular, the UBA supports the recommendation in yellow bins could not be politically enforced.
plastic-specific quotas in non-packaging appli- of entrenching the availability of spare parts Such comprehensive collecting of the recycla-
cations, and secondly strengthening demand for all products in particular in the Ecodesign ble materials named has the potential to add
for plastics recyclates, e.g. by way of specifica- Directive. Unfortunately, further demands such an extra 5 kilograms of plastics and metals per
tions for minimum recyclate content in certain as access to information about repairs, and resident per year to the amount of materials col-
suitable products, such as waste bins (these spare parts for free repair shops were not taken lected in the yellow bins, and could thus make
specifications will initially be implemented on up. From our perspective, it would be important an important contribution to the conservation
a voluntary basis). These goals were discussed to hold manufacturers to account. One idea, for of resources. According to the current draft of
during a UBA event in Brussels, titled “Plastics example, would be to require manufacturers the bill, municipalities are able to introduce
waste management and prevention of marine to provide mandatory information about the “recycling bins” voluntarily, as many already
littering in a circular economy”, which was product lifespan which they guarantee in order have. This means that there is still potential
attended by both EU and business representa- to provide consumers with a better basis to in Germany to keep reducing the consumption
tives. They were also considered in relation to for making a decision before they purchase a of primary resources by substituting them
the issue of plastic waste polluting the oceans. product. The general framework for independ- with secondary raw materials. At the present
ent repair shops also needs to be improved. time, people who are able to should already
Specifically, spare parts retailers and repair be preventing as much waste as possible and
Preventing waste shops that are not directly affiliated with man- feeding recyclable leftovers back into systems
ufacturers should also have constant access for separate collection.
Another important starting point for the EU to spare parts, basic repair manuals and tools
Circular Economy Package is the incorporation under appropriate conditions.
of waste prevention measures into every step
of the product life cycle. The example of food
waste illustrates the reasons for this particu- Recycling in Germany – good, but not
larly well, as it is an area where measures like good enough
these need to be implemented throughout the
value chain: during production, processing and Germany is considered a world champion when
manufacturing, retail, distribution and the con- it comes to recycling. And it’s true: with regard
1 Communication from the Commission to the European
sumption of foodstuffs both at and away from to the utilisation of waste, Germany is already
Parliament, the Council, the European Economic and
home. The UBA has helped to shape a process complying with the 2031 targets recommended Social Committee and the Committee of the Regions.
of dialogue between various stakeholders from by the European Commission for iron, alumin- Closing the loop – An EU action plan for the Circular
Economy COM(2015) 614 final
politics, business, public institutions, and envi- ium, glass and paper, and we have already met
2 High-level Panel Discussion – Circular Economy: The Eu-
ronmental and consumer protection agencies, the 2026 target for the overall packaging quota. ropean Union’s Potential for Climate Change Mitigation.
who are currently discussing approaches for However, there is still room for improvement 2 March 2016, North Rhine-Westphalia Representative
Office to the European Union, Brussels.
taking action to prevent food waste. The UBA in the area of plastics to leverage technical,
3 Download the catering guideline here (German):
has published guidelines for preventing food ecological and economic resource potential. An https://www.umweltbundesamt.de/publikationen/leit-
faden-zur-vermeidung-von-lebensmittelabfaellen
8 9
WHAT MATTERS 2016 THE PRICE OF BEAUT Y
The price of beauty
Every year, there are up to twelve new
collections in the clothing stores in
Germany’s high streets. But this “fast
fashion” is having a huge impact on the
environment and on the people who live
in manufacturing countries.
10 11
WHAT MATTERS 2016 THE PRICE OF BEAUT Y
Fashion and its consequences The textile industry today
The German textile and clothing industry cur- Textile manufacturing leaves behind visible
“The purple waves of the narrow river flow sometimes swiftly, rently comprises 1,400 companies that employ traces in the environment at every stage of
sometimes sluggishly between smoky factory buildings and yarn- 132,000 people.3 About half of their annual processing. Cotton cultivation and the pro-
revenue of EUR 32 billion is generated from cessing of fibres alike pollute the air and water
strewn bleaching-yards. Its bright red colour, however, is due not technical textiles. Technical textiles are textiles everywhere. The UBA is developing approaches
to some bloody battle ... but simply and solely to the numerous dye- that are used in special areas of technical appli- to make textile manufacturing more environ-
cation, for example in agriculture, as contract mentally friendly by introducing mandatory
works using Turkey red. Coming from Düsseldorf, one enters the and construction textiles, in the automotive minimum standards in Germany and the
sacred region at Sonnborn; the muddy Wupper flows slowly by and, industry and in medical and hygiene products. European Union. This includes regulating how
facilities are licenced on the basis of the Indus-
compared with the Rhine just left behind, its miserable appearance Market globalisation has had a considerable trial Emissions Directive4 as well as regulations
is very disappointing. The area is rather attractive: the not very high impact on the textile industry. For example, for the European Registration, Evaluation,
about 90 per cent of the clothing purchased in Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals
mountains, rising sometimes gently, sometimes steeply, and heavily Germany originates abroad; more than 50 per (REACH) directive.
wooded, march boldly into green meadows, and in fine weather the cent comes from China, Turkey and Bangla-
desh. The division of labour is very pronounced However, because the majority of textile
blue sky reflected in the Wupper causes the red colour to disappear in textile manufacturing. A t-shirt can travel manufacturing still takes place outside of the
completely.”1 up to 20,000 kilometres before it is bought in a European Union, the UBA is also promoting
German store, possibly for as little as EUR 4.00. the application of ambitious environmental
With such prices despite a large number of pro- standards within the global supply chain, for
In his letters from Wuppertal – this one is dated March 1839 – cessing steps, it is plain to see that there is little example, by collaborating with Indian envi-
Friedrich Engels gives a striking description of the ecological impact left over for cotton farmers or seamstresses at ronmental authorities and working together
the end. with retailers and brands as well as non-gov-
of the early industrial textile industry along the Wupper, between ernmental organisations in the Partnership for
Elberfeld and Barmen. Since the collapse of the traditional German “Fast fashion” is making the clothing carousel Sustainable Textiles.
spin faster and faster. Fashion stores now have
textile industry in the early 1970s and thanks to the development of up to twelve collections on offer every year; a
German environmental law, this play of colours on the Wupper has few decades ago it was just two: a spring col-
lection and an autumn collection. On average,
drawn to an end, and the sky above it has become blue again, just like Germans buy 12 kilograms of clothing per
German chancellor Willy Brandt (SPD) promised. In the former East capita per year.
Germany, colourful streams became clean once again after 1989.
But in other parts of the world, the rivers still take on a different hue 10 %
every day. Experts from the UBA have observed this in the Indian of the clothing purchased in Germany is
state of Gujarat, for instance, where there are over 7,700 textile mills. manufactured in Germany
Together with local environmental authorities, the UBA is working
on reducing the environmental impact of sectors such as the textile,
paper and chemicals industries.2
90 %
of the clothing purchased in Germany is
manufactured abroad; of this, more than
50 %
comes from China, Turkey
and Bangladesh
12 13
WHAT MATTERS 2016 THE PRICE OF BEAUT Y
Manufacturing fibres
Cotton long-term changes to the natural water balance,
the use of pesticides is one of the most serious
Cotton is a natural fibre. Worldwide, about 250 issues: one-quarter of the insecticides and al-
million people in roughly 80 countries make most 7 per cent of the herbicides used globally
their living from farming it. In the 2013/2014 are sprayed on cotton fields. Although insec-
season, 25 million tonnes of cotton were grown ticides do kill all cotton pests, like the cotton
on 33 million hectares of land.5 But cotton bollworm, they also kill all beneficial insects.
farming causes enormous damage to the en- This intense use of agricultural chemicals
vironment. The working conditions are tough endangers the environment and has dramatic
and have considerable effects on the health of consequences for the health of the people work-
workers. The farming of this natural fibre is of ing in the fields. Depending on the irrigation
the highest importance for the textile industry. techniques used and precipitation patterns,
However, the extremely high amount of water agricultural chemicals leach out into rivers,
required for cotton production has had a politi- lakes and groundwater, poisoning insects and
cally destabilising effect in some of the farming other creatures, as well as the drinking water of
regions in Central Asia, the Middle East and the people whose livelihoods depend on cotton.
North Africa. Conflicts over natural resources According to estimates by the World Health Or-
are exacerbated by cotton production. ganization (WHO), roughly two million people
die worldwide every year after being poisoned
In a global context, cotton only grows on 2.5 by agricultural chemicals. It is not possible to
per cent of the total surface area used for agri- ascertain precisely how many people involved
culture.6 It is cultivated almost exclusively in in cotton farming are being affected. In dry ar-
monoculture and is therefore extremely vulner- eas such as China, Uzbekistan, Mali and India,
able to pests and pathogens. Alongside a loss of the amount of water required has increased to
soil fertility, soil salinisation, diminishing bi- up to 26,900 cubic metres of water per tonne
odiversity, water pollution, contamination and of cotton. Since 1980, the Aral Sea in Central
Asia, once one of the largest lakes in the world,
has shrunk to 15 per cent of its original size –
because its water is being used to irrigate the
Cotton from organic farms is grown
cotton fields. without using pesticides, but only
has a market share of 1 per cent.
Two-thirds of the cotton farmed worldwide has
Amount of pesticides used globally been genetically modified. The US, India and
China – the main cotton farming countries – ral fibres under organic conditions. Ecological-
25 % are now almost exclusively using genetically ly produced cotton currently only makes up 1
modified cotton. For example, the genes of the per cent of global production – which averages
of the insecticides used soil bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) are around 20 million tonnes per year.
globally are sprayed on
transferred into cotton. The cotton plants are
cotton fields to eradicate
then poisonous to certain pests. But the cotton Although other initiatives like “Cotton made in
pests like the cotton
bollworm. bollworm caterpillar has managed to develop Africa” (CmiA)7 are not yet aiming for anything
resistance to this bacterium, which means that as ambitious as certified organic cultivation,
farmers now have to spray even stronger insec- they are still taking steps in the right direction.
ticides than before. Cotton made in Africa is an initiative of the
Aid by Trade Foundation and is being funded
For this reason, the UBA recommends using by the German Federal Ministry for Economic
certified organic cotton, where the use of Cooperation and Development (BMZ). Non-gov-
7% synthetic pesticides and fertilisers is prohibited
in farming, thus minimising the associated
ernmental organisations in the initiative, such
as the environmental foundation World Wide
of the herbicides used environmental damage. Organic farming also Fund for Nature (WWF), work together with
globally are sprayed on prohibits the use of genetically modified plants. companies to find solutions to the environ-
cotton fields. In order to protect organic cotton from pests, it mental and social problems caused by cotton
is farmed in rotation with other types of plants, farming. CmiA provides training to teach cotton
which also improves soil fertility. Farmers use farmers about efficient and environmentally
manure and compost to fertilise their fields, friendly farming methods. It prohibits the use
which increases the proportion of humus in the of certain pesticides and the farming of geneti-
soil. This means that it can store more water cally modified plants.
and CO2, and it also leads to a decrease in its
vulnerability to erosion. For this reason, the
UBA, together with the Blue Angel for Textiles,
is calling for the farming and sourcing of natu-
14 15
WHAT MATTERS 2016 THE PRICE OF BEAUT Y
Figure 1
Global fibre manufacturing 2015
Manufacturing textiles
Yarn is produced from raw fibres during the Some of the chemicals – such as nonylphenol
7% 25 % spinning process. The textile industry uses
methods such as weaving and knitting to
ethoxylates (NPEs), perfluorinated and poly-
fluorinated compounds, and some phthalates
cellulosic man-made fibres cotton manufacture textile surfaces from these yarns. – are substances of high concern. NPEs are
(viscose) Non-woven fabrics are fabrics made of fibres broken down in waste water treatment plants
that are bonded together by their own adhesion into nonylphenol, which can accumulate in the
to one another or by interlocking the fibres environment. It is considered to have hormo-
using serrated needles. The fibres and yarns nal effects: it can cause malformations in the
are subjected to high levels of stress during reproductive organs of fish, thereby having an
the mechanical processes involved in textile impact on their procreation. In higher concen-
manufacturing. To protect them and make trations, nonylphenol can stop male fish from
them easier to process, they therefore need to growing. In Germany, the industry adopted
be prepared using agents such as spinning oils a voluntary agreement to stop using NPEs
and sizing agents. in cleaning agents and as auxiliary agents
in 1992. Its use in the EU textile and leather
1% Textile finishing refers to the stages during
which colourful textiles and textiles with spe-
industries has been restricted since 2005.
In 2013, the EU put NPEs on the REACH list
wool cial characteristics are manufactured from raw of substances of very high concern (SVHCs).
textiles. Finishing can take place at a number However, these substances can still be found
of different stages during the manufacturing in imported goods and in bodies of water
process: at the fibre, yarn, grey good or finished today. In 2021, a regulation restricting the NPE
67 % product stage. Finishing fundamentally com-
prises the main stages of pre-treatment (desiz-
content in textile products to less than 0.01
per cent will come into effect, which will also
synthetic man-made fibres (polyester, polyamides etc.) ing, bleaching, washing, mercerising), dying, cover imported goods. The EU Commission is
printing and final finishing (including bonding currently working on further restricting the use
Source: Industrievereinigung Chemiefaser e. V.
and coating). of substances with problematic properties in
textiles.
During textile finishing, up to 1 kilo of chemi-
cals can be used per kilo of processed textile.12 Performance textiles, which are also manufac-
This includes the use of a large array of textile tured using SVHCs, are being increasingly used
Man-made fibres auxiliaries. The International Textile Auxilia- in the manufacturing of sports and outdoor
mide, are used during the manufacture of pol- ries Buyers’ Guide lists approximately 6,500 attire. In a number of studies conducted on
Man-made fibres are much more significant yacrylic fibres. These solvents can also have an commercial products manufactured using 400 outdoor jackets, Greenpeace and the UBA found
than cotton in terms of volume. They make up effect on the levels of exhaust emitted during to 600 active substances. A large number of perfluorinated and polyfluorinated chemicals
more than 70 per cent of the global fibre market. the subsequent textile finishing stage. textile auxiliaries end up in waste water. Some (PFC), which evaporate and are emitted by the
Cotton accounts for approximately 25 per cent. of these substances are not easily biodegrada- jackets. These chemicals remain in the environ-
Man-made fibres include synthetic fibres such Man-made fibres are currently the subject ble and can only be removed in biological waste
as polyester, polyamides and polyacrylic fibres, of a new environmental discussion. During water treatment plants to a certain extent. This
as well as cellulosic fibres such as viscose. debates about the origins of small plastic and is why in some countries, such as China and
microplastic parts found in the oceans, fleece India, these chemicals end up in the rivers, as
Manufacturing these fibres also causes envi- fabrics that are used to manufacture pullovers the waste water treatment is often insufficient
ronmental problems. Roughly 0.8 per cent of and blankets have been identified as a possible or waste water is not treated at all.
the global crude oil extracted annually is used source. Fleece fabrics10 are a recycled product
as a raw material. From the extraction of the manufactured from PET bottles. Because fibres
crude oil up to the finished synthetic fibres, can break during wear and washing, there are
a range of manufacturing stages are required fears that these microparticles are finding their
during which the environment is put under way into the environment and, in the process,
strain by effluent, energy requirements and into the food chain, for example. However,
emissions of volatile organic compounds.8 For there are currently no reliable data on this is-
example, the production of adipic acid – a mon- sue. The UBA believes that it is necessary to col-
omer used in the production of polyamide fibres lect more precise data to find out which parti-
– has a significant environmental impact. Each cles are finding their way into the environment
tonne of adipic acid produced generates on av- and thus also into bodies of water, and how this
erage 0.3 tonnes of the greenhouse gas nitrous is happening. If they make their way into waste
Up to one kilo chemicals are used
oxide (NO), which is equivalent to almost 90 water systems, microplastics – just like other in processing one kilo of textiles.
tonnes of CO2. By utilising emission reduction particles – can be filtered out in waste water
technology, however, these emissions could be treatment plants, which is why these plants
lowered by at least 98 per cent, as German adi- have a range of different purification stages. In
pic acid manufacturers have proved.9 Solvents order to further improve purification efficiency,
that have been classed reprotoxic, such as N,N the UBA is currently involved in a research
dimethylformamide and N,N dimethylaceta- project being carried out by the German Federal
Ministry of Education and Research (BMBF).11
16 17WHAT MATTERS 2016 THE PRICE OF BEAUT Y
ment permanently. Some PFCs are a danger to Phthalates are added to polyvinylchloride
human health and accumulate in organisms. (PVC) as a plasticizer and are found primarily
in PVC textile prints, in rainwear and in faux
PFCs are found above all in stain-resistant leather. But many of these plasticizers behave
and waterproof clothing. The UBA advises like hormones and can harm reproduction. The
purchasing PFC-free jackets13, because high- use of certain phthalates in children’s toys and
tech materials with extreme functionality are products is now regulated by EU directives.
not necessary for everyday use. Do you really On the other hand, they are still often used in
need a jacket that would be suited to an Arctic artificial leather, which is used in manufactur-
expedition for a stroll through town? Howev- ing children’s shoes, for instance. Phthalates
er, everyday textiles can also contain PFCs, are used in concentrations of 20 to 30 per cent
because PFCs are not just used to manufac- of the PVC weight. For this reason, the UBA
ture outdoor textiles. Other textiles that have advises consumers against buying clothing that
waterproof and dirt-repellent qualities can also contains PVC.
contain PFCs. There is a wide range of applica-
tions for PFCs, from tablecloths and cushion
covers to protective work clothing.
Figure 2
PFCs – of very high concern and found everywhere
Properties of PFCs Effect of some PFCs
> waterproof > toxic effects
> grease repellent PFC > promote the formation of liver
> dirt-repellent cancer and other tumours
> can have a negative impact on
female fertility and male
spermatogenesis
Textiles Food packaging Fire extinguishants
(outdoor clothing, (paper cups,
dirt-repellent, pizza boxes …)
carpets …)
Soil Rivers
Oceans
Harmful PFCs often make their way
into the environment via rainwear.
Source: UBA
18 19WHAT MATTERS 2016 THE PRICE OF BEAUT Y
A clean textile industry Collaboration with India
Further developments in environmental standards have significantly increased the quality
of our environment – and our quality of life too. For example, environmental conservation
Chemicals legislation Industrial legislation
measures taken in the textile industry have contributed to considerable improvements in water
quality in the past. But hardly any such improvements have been made in developing and new-
The European chemicals regulation REACH The Industrial Emissions Directive sets the lead-
ly industrialised countries – the main manufacturing locations for environmentally relevant
aims to protect people and the environment ing environmental standards in the European
processes in the textile chain. This is why the UBA is now supporting the implementation of ad-
from harmful chemicals. It regulates the use Union for industrial manufacturing – and thus
vanced environmental standards in countries like India, in order to significantly reduce global
and marketing of all chemicals in the EU. For for textile manufacturing too. The directive lays
environmental harm. Within this context, the UBA is campaigning for stakeholders to exchange
the first time, REACH is recording all of the down the basis for approving environmentally
information on BATs and to use BAT reference documents to set environmental standards.
chemicals that can be found in the market as relevant industrial plants. It aims to prevent and
well as their properties. In future, this will ena- minimise environmental pollution by applying
In 2012, the UBA signed a cooperation agreement with the environmental authority of the
ble REACH to provide a systematic understand- the best available techniques (BATs).
Indian state of Gujarat that aims to help the authorities there to carry out a similar information
ing of the impact chemicals have on people
exchange on BAT for the first time. The UBA experts realised during their visits to Gujarat that
and the environment. Member states, industry and environmental
the national limits – for example, for waste water – are very demanding and are in many cases
groups exchange information in order to work
all but impossible to achieve using existing technology. With so many companies, it is almost
out BATs for each of the industries concerned,
impossible for authorities to monitor every single one. This is why all stacks are monitored on-
which are then laid down in BAT reference
line using cameras. However, it is not clear how this data is being assessed. Companies often
REACH documents.
lack specialist personnel capable of analysing waste water samples, for instance.
Registration Evaluation The UBA is actively involved in this European
A huge obstacle to making any improvements is a lack of trust between companies and authori-
Authorisation and Restriction exchange of information and the creation of
BAT reference documents. BAT reference docu-
ties. An organised exchange of information between authorities, industry and non-govern-
of Chemicals ments provide a detailed collection of informa-
mental organisations has never taken place. However, this will be the basis for improving the
situation by taking a constructive approach to finding solutions to problems step by step.
tion about all processes and techniques in each
industry. At the same time, they investigate
The first successful effects of this long-term collaboration can already be felt: authorities and
As mentioned, large amounts of various, some- their environmental impacts and provide infor-
the textile industry have begun exchanging information and working on a joint understanding
times very poisonous or long-lasting chemicals mation about techniques that can contribute to
of BAT, and mistrust is being tackled. This means that the basic preconditions have been creat-
are used during textile manufacturing. “Fast the reduction and prevention of emissions. The
ed for improving relationships in this industry.
fashion” reinforces this effect. There is a clear BAT reference document for the textile industry
correlation between the textiles we buy on the mainly deals with textile finishing (pre-treat-
one hand, and chemical consumption and the ment, dyeing, altering fibre properties). It con-
release of chemicals into the environment on tains detailed information about roughly 130
the other. techniques that can be used to reduce the textile
industry’s impact on the environment.
REACH gives all citizens the right to inform
themselves about SVHCs in a range of differ- Provided that no stricter national regulations
ent products. The list of SVHCs now includes are already in force, the BAT conclusions are
169 different substances, such as phthalates, implemented in subordinate regulations in Ger-
alkylphenol ethoxylates and perfluorinated many, in particular in the technical instructions
compounds.14 If you want to avoid buying for air quality control (TA Luft) and in waste
clothing that contains chemicals like these, water regulation (Abwasserverordnung). These
you can direct an enquiry to the manufacturer regulations provide general and consistent
or retailer. The right to information applies limits on air and water emissions. They take the
as soon as the concentration of particularly information from the BAT reference documents
alarming chemicals in the product exceeds 0.1 into account directly.
per cent by weight. The enquiry must then be
answered within 45 days. The BAT reference document for the textile
industry was published in 2003. The EU Com-
The UBA provides assistance in making such mission is planning to begin work on the new
enquiries on its website and is currently edition of the BAT reference document in 2016.
developing an app that consumers will be
able to use to make enquiries more easily and
quickly.15 Thanks to this right to information, it
is now possible for the first time for consumers
to consider a product’s chemical impact when
they are making purchasing decisions and
thus to send a signal in favour of products that
are free of SVHCs.
20 21WHAT MATTERS 2016 THE PRICE OF BEAUT Y
The UBA is
promoting the
implementation
of advanced
environmental
standards
in India.
BAT guidelines Manufacturing
As “advertising” for BAT, the UBA has devel- maintaining operating facilities – can lead to an When the Rana Plaza – an eight-floor sewing were killed during the accident, and 2,438 were
oped the “Environmental Standards in the immediate increase in resource efficiency during factory in Sabhar, about 25 kilometres away injured.18
Textile and Shoe Industry” guidelines together manufacturing and can cut considerable costs from the Bangladeshi capital of Dhaka – col-
with a number of retail and brand companies in the process. In order to simplify the appli- lapsed on 24 April 2013, it sparked a global The Textile Partnership
as well as non-governmental organisations.16 cation of BATs, the UBA has created checklists debate about working conditions in the textile
These guidelines identify specific savings on the basis of the BAT reference documents17. industry. It seemed that the reinforced concrete In reaction to Rana Plaza, Federal Minister for
potential for all relevant resources and shows By using these checklists, manufacturers and building had been built using low-quality Economic Cooperation and Development Gerd
that the application of BATs does not necessar- external consultants can find out which of the materials. The ground was unsuitable for such Müller initiated the Partnership for Sustain-
ily mean high investment costs or huge efforts measures to reduce their impact on the environ- a tall building, and there were not enough able Textiles. The goal of the partnership is
on the part of staff. In particular, small and ment they have already taken and where they escape routes for people to leave the building to constantly improve social, ecological and
medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) with low envi- have room for improvement. Together with the quickly. On 23 April, cracks had already been economic sustainability throughout the textile
ronmental standards can take simple measures “Environmental Standards in the Textile and discovered in the building, and the police had chain. Two years after it was founded, about
to considerably improve their environmental Shoe Industry” guidelines, these checklists are a forbidden access to it. But more than 3,000 half of the German textile industry had joined.
footprint. For example, good management joint offering of information and support for the young people were working in the Rana Plaza Non-governmental organisations such as Ox-
alone – including staff training and regularly textile industry’s supply chain. when it collapsed. A total of 1,127 employees fam and Inkota are working with authorities
22 23WHAT MATTERS 2016 THE PRICE OF BEAUT Y
like the UBA, standards organisations like the Moreover, the Textile Partnership aims to
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and set up international partnerships in order
the industry to introduce practical measures to increase its effect on the textile manufac-
to promote sustainable textile manufacturing. turing chain. During the 2015 G7 summit in
In order to implement these measures, every Elmau, the seven most important industrial
Used textiles
member is currently developing its own specif- countries in the western world agreed to work
The German Waste Management Act (Kreislaufwirtschaftsgesetz) defines used
ic implementation plans and time frames. This on boosting the sustainability of all globally
textiles from containers or street collections as waste. Collectors sort the collected
is the beginning of the step-by-step implemen- traded products throughout the supply chain.
used textiles manually based on need, purpose and quality. Of used textiles, 54 per
tation of the partnership’s goals. The UBA is The European Union wants to set up a textile
cent are reused in their original form; for clothing, this figure is as high as 72 per
contributing its experience to the drafting of trailblazer initiative. The members of the
cent. The amount of used textiles collected exceeds the need for social purposes in
implementation requirements. Textile Partnership hope to find ways to get
Germany many times over. Items of clothing that are given to non-profit collectors
the partnership suitably involved with these
are therefore sold on to sorting plants. Many non-profit collection agencies use the
The UBA regards the Textile Partnership as international initiatives.
profits to carry out their social work. Excess textiles are marketed worldwide, with
a great opportunity to make far-reaching
Asia, Africa and Eastern Europe the preferred markets. A total of 44 per cent of used
improvements to general conditions in manu- The public procurement of sustainable textiles
textiles are sold in Europe and the former Soviet Union; 28 per cent go to Africa, and
facturing countries. The partnership has the could make a substantial contribution to its
10 per cent to India and Pakistan.20
potential to help the industry to face challeng- practical implementation. On average, the Ger-
es more effectively and to utilise synergies in man Federal Government spends almost EUR
Sometimes there is a lack of transparency about the collection of used clothing. For
joint local projects. 105 million on textile products every year. The
this reason, consumers should make sure that collection agencies can be identified.
largest proportion of this at EUR 95.7 million
Serious collection agencies should provide transparent information about what
goes to clothing. Furniture with a textile com-
happens to both used clothing and profits. Caution is advised in the case of collec-
ponent, such as seating, accounts for roughly
tions where the collection agency cannot be identified or if only a mobile telephone
EUR 5 million. The Federal Government aims
number is provided. These collections could be illegal, and it cannot be verified that
to source at least 50 per cent of its textiles
the used textiles are being processed in an environmentally friendly way.
(excluding special textiles such as protective
One guide for identifying serious collection agencies is the symbol
clothing) according to ecological and social
of the umbrella organisation FairWertung e.V. Municipal waste
criteria by 2020. Labels such as the Blue An-
authorities provide information about which local collection
gel, the EU Ecolabel, GOTS and Fairtrade play
Member of the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles sites and containers are serious, who is carrying out
Socially and ecologically – we are on our way. an important role in this respect. The next
the collections and how the used clothing collected
bulk order for Bundeswehr or federal police
is recycled afterwards.21
uniforms could then meet sustainable criteria.
The market power of the public authorities can
be leveraged in this way to sustainably recon-
figure the textile chain.
Both the eco labels and the social labels can
also be important guides for procurement in
the textile retail sector, making it easier for
retailers to measure up to their responsibility
for the entire textile chain. Until now, retailers
have often had little knowledge about their
producers and have seldom reviewed manu-
facturing conditions. But not every label lives
up to its promises. As a result, the BMZ has
commissioned Deutsche Gesellschaft für Inter-
nationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) to develop What can consumers do?
the portal Siegelklarheit.de.19 In comparison
with other label portals, it provides access to
Sustainable more far-reaching information. All relevant The mass production of clothing has a huge, possibilities include clothes swapping – which
fashion is now Federal Government departments are involved negative impact on the environment and on so- is becoming increasingly popular among young
available in
cool too. in compiling label assessments. The Federal cial structures in manufacturing countries. And people – making clothing yourself or some-
Government also supports some labels direct- despite the Rana Plaza tragedy and occasional times even just getting it repaired more often.22
ly. The oldest and most well-known is the Blue reports on the consequences of cotton farm- It also helps to buy clothing that was produced
Angel, which was introduced in 1978. The ing, consumers in Germany are hardly aware under sustainable conditions. Environmental
development of criteria specific to each of the of how much environmental destruction and labels can provide guidance when making
product groups is a task that has been handed injustice they are buying into with a cheap (or purchasing decisions. At Siegelklarheit.de,
over to the UBA. The EU Ecolabel was started sometimes even an expensive) item of cloth- consumers will find label recommendations.
by the European Commission. In Germany, the ing. People who want to do something good
UBA is utilising its expertise to help the EU for the environment through how they dress In 2012, the German Federal Ecodesign Award
make labelling decisions. should therefore switch from fast fashion to was initiated by the Federal Environment
slow fashion – and start wearing clothes longer. Ministry, the UBA and the Berlin International
Buying fashion in second-hand stores is also a Design Centre. The Ecodesign prize recognises
good idea from a sustainability point of view, products, services and concepts that are of the
as it also extends the ‘lifespan’ of clothes. Other highest ecological and design quality (see also
24 25WHAT MATTERS 2016 THE PRICE OF BEAUT Y
the section on “Sustainable consumption”). duction,” the jury said in praise of the compa-
In the last few years, these have also included ny. And in 2015, the jury ultimately awarded
excellent, trend-setting prize winners from two prizes to initiatives in the field of fashion.
the fields of fashion and textiles.23 In 2012, One went to Engel Sports performance clothing,
the Berlin label “Bis es mir vom Leibe fällt” which is made of a wool-silk fibre mix and is
received the award. The company repairs and manufactured by Engels Sports GmbH in the
redesigns clothing, thereby contributing to a Swabian Jura. The other prize went to the fash-
longer product lifespan. In 2013, Pyua Ecorrect ionable and environmentally friendly F-ABRIC
Outwear was awarded the prize. The Kiel-based collection by the Swiss company FREITAG.
company manufactures skiing attire without
using harmful PFCs. In order to waterproof its So it is possible to wear clothing that protects
clothing, the company uses a polyester lami- the environment. But the same applies to
nate waterproofing agent. The repair service sustainably produced clothing as it does to all
it offers also extends the product’s lifespan. clothing: please wear your clothing for as long
In 2014, the Federal Government honoured as possible. Even sustainable clothing can put
“Wunderwerk”, a design label that consistently unnecessary strain on the environment if it is
uses ecologically produced materials. “This thrown away soon after – in the worst case,
is one of the few absolutely ecological fashion unworn.
collections that has made it to large-scale pro-
1 Karl Marx / Frederick Engels – Collected Works. Pro- 12 BAT reference document for the textile industry.:
gress Publishing, Moscow. Volume 2. Frederick Engels http://eippcb.jrc.ec.euro-pa.eu/reference/BREF/txt_
1838-1842. Moscow/USSR. 1975 p. 7. bref_0703.pdf
2 Joint Declaration of Intent for promoting the Best 13 UBA tests outdoor jackets: Weather-proofing is harmful
Available Techniques (BAT) not entailing excessive cost. to waters, 2014. https://www.umweltbundesamt.de/
German Environment Agency, Gujarat Pollution Control en/press/pressinformation/uba-tests-outdoor-jackets-
Board, Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbe- weather-proofing-is
it, 2013. 14 http://echa.europa.eu/en/candidate-list-table
3 According to information supplied by the German 15 German Environment Agency: https://www.um-
Textile+Fashion Confederation. weltbundesamt.de/themen/chemikalien/chemika-
4 https://www.umweltbundesamt.de/themen/wirt- lien-reach/reach-fuer-ver-braucherinnen-verbraucher
schaft-konsum/beste-verfuegbare-techniken/indus- 16 German Environment Agency: Environmental Stand-
triee-missions-richtlinie ards in the Textile and Shoe Sector. A guideline on the
5 https://baumwollboerse.de/2014/07/02/jahresberi- basis of the BREFS – best available techniques reference
cht-2013-baumwolle-eine-weltumspannende-faser/ documents of the EU. Dessau, 2011.
6 Pesticide Action Network. Konventioneller Baum- 17 Checklist based on best available techniques in the
wollanbau. Problematisch für Mensch und Umwelt, textile industry. Dr. Norbert Reintjes GmbH Institute for
Hamburg, no date. Environmental Strategies, Hamburg Dr. Claudia Schaf-
7 Cotton made in Africa, http://www.cottonmadeinafrica. meister CS Research, Dachau Ismene Jäger Hydrotox
org/de/ GmbH, Freiburg on behalf of the German Environment
8 German Environment Agency: Integrierte Vermeidung Agency, Dessau 2011.
und Verminderung der Umweltverschmutzung. Refer- 18 Rana Plaza three years on. Clean Clothes Campaign,
enzdokument über die besten verfügbaren Techniken http://www.cleanclothes.org/news/press-relea-
für die Herstellung von Polymeren, Dessau 2006. ses/2016/04/22/rana-plaza-three-years-on
9 Berichterstattung unter der Klimarahmenkonvention 19 Portal Siegelklarheit. https://www.siegelklarheit.de/
der Vereinten Nationen und dem Kyoto-Protokoll 20166 home
National Inventory Report for the German Greenhouse 20 Julia Korolkow: Konsum, Bedarf und Wiederverwend-
Performance clothing that
Gas Inventory 1990 - 2014, Climate Change series ung von Bekleidung und Textilien in Deutschland, im
does not contain harmful
02/2016, German Environment Agency, Dessau. ISSN Auftrag des bvse-Bundesverband Sekundärrohstoffe
PFC compounds is also available.
1862-4359. und Entsorgung.
10 UBA-Koordinierungsgruppe “Kunststoffe in der 21 https://www.umweltbundesamt.de/sites/default/files/
Umwelt“. AL talk 16 March 2016: Kunststoffe in der medien/378/publikationen/uba_abfall_web.pdf
Umwelt. Fakten und Herausforderungen. 22 Greenpeace: Wegwerfware Kleidung Repräsentative
11 http://www.siwawi.tu-berlin.de/fileadmin/fg118/bil- Greenpeace-Umfrage zu Kaufverhalten, Tragedauer und
der_team/20160520_Poster_IFAT_OEMP_A4_ven_fi- der Entsorgung von Mode, Hamburg 2015.
nal.pdf 23 Ecodesign Prize: prize winners, https://www.bun-
des-preis-ecodesign.de/en/wettbewerb.html
26 27You can also read
