Mountains of the East - Mountaineering Ireland

Page created by Sharon Ingram
 
CONTINUE READING
Mountains of the East - Mountaineering Ireland
Spring 2021 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 137

          HILLWALKING       •   CLIMBING       •   MOUNTAINEERING

Mountains of the East
Hiking the Great Leinster Chain from Dublin to Waterford

Fitz Roy Massif
Solo traverse of five-mile ridge in Patagonia

                                                     www.mountaineering.ie
Mountains of the East - Mountaineering Ireland
Mountains of the East - Mountaineering Ireland
A WORD FROM THE EDITOR

                                                                                                         ISSUE 137
                                                                                                         The Irish Mountain Log is the
                                                                                                         membership magazine of

                          Welcome
                                                                                                         Mountaineering Ireland. The
                                                                                                         organisation promotes the interests
                                                                                                         of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland.

                                                                                                         Mountaineering Ireland
                                                                                                         Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a
                                                                                                         company limited by guarantee and

S
              adly, the Covid-19 pandemic is                                                             registered in Dublin, No 199053.
              still with us and keeping us off                                                           Registered office: Irish Sport HQ,
              the hills and crags. We still need                                                         National Sports Campus,
              to continue to take care and                                                               Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland.
              follow the public health advice                                                            Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115
                                                                                                         Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116
about social distancing and avoiding
contact with other people (see current             Mountaineering Ireland’s                              info@mountaineering.ie
                                                                                                         www.mountaineering.ie
advice for hillwalkers and climbers, page 5).      fiftieth anniversary will be
   This year is Mountaineering Ireland’s                                                                 Hot Rock Climbing Wall
fiftieth anniversary. Given the year that’s in      marked this year                                      Tollymore Mountain Centre
it, it is difficult to organise any events at                                                             Bryansford, Newcastle
present to celebrate this significant                  Mountaineering Ireland sees its purpose            County Down, BT33 0PT
anniversary. However, we should certainly          as being to represent and support                     Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354
                                                   hillwalking and climbing. Its vision is that          youth@mountaineering.ie
mark it (see comment from our CEO, page
9). In the Irish Mountain Log, we intend to        hillwalkers and climbers will become more
                                                                                                         Editor: Patrick O’Sullivan
mark this anniversary by publishing some           skilled, self-reliant and informed, that
                                                                                                         Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds)
relevant features, reprints of old articles and    access will be improved, and that our                 iml-editor@mountaineering.ie
some new material, throughout the year.            mountain landscapes will be valued and                Literary Editor: Peter O’Neill
   The fifty years have seen a growth in our        protected. It aims to inspire all who engage          iml-literaryeditor@mountaineering.ie
sport on this island. The organisation has         in hillwalking and climbing throughout the            Features Editor: Nicky Hore
also changed. From being a purely                  island of Ireland, and encourage adventure            iml-featureseditor@mountaineering.ie
volunteer-run organisation, Mountaineering         and exploration in the mountains of the
                                                   world.                                                The Irish Mountain Log is published by
Ireland now has a Chief Executive Officer
                                                                                                         Mountaineering Ireland four times a
and a professional staff team to service the          In this issue, given the lack of news, we
                                                                                                         year, in March, June, September,
needs of its growing membership. However,          have again been able to publish more                  December. The material published in
Mountaineering Ireland is still governed by        feature articles about trips members have             the Log by the voluntary editorial team
its members through a Board of Directors,          undertaken prior to the pandemic or when              and contributors must not be taken as
elected from the membership.                       the restrictions have been eased. There are           official Mountaineering Ireland policy
   Initially established as the Federation of      several strong pieces. A call for articles by         unless specifically stated.
Mountaineering Clubs in Ireland in 1971,           women resulted in several excellent pieces
                                                   being received as well. We have published             Copy deadline for the Summer 2021
Mountaineering Ireland is now the
                                                                                                         issue of the Irish Mountain Log is:
representative body for hillwalkers and            some of those in this issue, which will
                                                                                                         Friday, May 14th 2021.
climbers on the island of Ireland. It is           hopefully improve the editorial balance in
recognised as the National Governing Body          the magazine.                                         Advertising: info@mountaineering.ie
for mountaineering, hillwalking, rambling             Keep safe!
and climbing by both Sport Ireland and                                                                   Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn,
Sport Northern Ireland.                                          Patrick O’Sullivan, Editor              coilin@natureireland.ie


                                                                                                         Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd,
                                                                                                         Alexander Road, Belfast BT6 9HP
         Write for the Log                                                                               Tel: +44 (0)28 9070 2020

                                                                                                         PARTICIPATION AND RISK
                                                                                                         Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are
Contributions of features, news items and photographs for                                                reminded that hillwalking and climbing
the Irish Mountain Log are always welcome and should be                                                  are activities with a danger of personal
sent to the Editor at: iml-editor@mountaineering.ie.                                                     injury or death. Participants in these
                                                                                                         activities should be aware of and
Contributors’ guidelines can be downloaded from the                                                      accept these risks, and be responsible
                                                                                                         for their own actions and involvement.
Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie.
                                                                                                         Mountaineering Ireland publishes and
                                                                     ON THE COVER                        promotes safety and good practice
To join Mountaineering Ireland and receive four issues of the        Looking south from Mount Brandon,   advice and through the Mountain
Irish Mountain Log delivered to your door each year, please          Co Kerry, at sunrise
                                                                                                         Training Board of Ireland administers a
also go to the website, www.mountaineering.ie.                                                           range of training programmes for
                                                                     PHOTOGRAPH
                                                                     RICHARD CREAGH                      walkers and climbers.

Spring 2021                                                                                                           Irish Mountain Log            3
Mountains of the East - Mountaineering Ireland
CONTENTS Spring 2021
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Hillwalking in the Reeks in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          better times (see ‘Mind
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          yourselves: some ways for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          hillwalkers and climbers to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          mind their physical and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          mental wellbeing,’ page 56)

                                                                                                                 News                                                14 Viewpoint:
                                                                                                                                                                        ‘One from the Hills!’
                                                                                                                 5       Covid-19 advice: be safe,                       A proposal by Brendan Roche
                                                                                                                         responsible and considerate                 15 Let’s all #CleanTheHills
                                                                                                                 6       Increase in call-outs in 2020                   By Aisling Kennedy
                                                                                                                         Ruth Cunniffe reports
                                                                                                                                                                     15 ...and let’s start now!
                                                                                                                 7       Solo traverse of Fitz Roy                       Mountaineering Ireland response
                                                                                                                         massif completed         15 Crossword results
                                                                                                                         Patrick O’Sullivan reports
                                                                                                                 8 Cork club celebrates 45th year 16 National walking trails:
                                                                                                                    Margaret Kennedy reports         the beginning
                                                                                                                                                     By Seán Quinn
                                                                                                                 9 ‘Cork Mountaineering Club’
Photographs: Helen Lawless (hillwalking in the Reeks), Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll (selfie), Aidan Ennis (selfie)

                                                                                                                    A poem by Myra Heffernan      17 Winter success on K2
                                                                                                                                                     Patrick O’Sullivan reports
                                                                                                                 10 Doug Scott CBE:
                                                                                                                    an appreciation               19 Irish death on Mount Kenya                             Aidan Ennis on his Great Leinster Chain hike
                                                                                                                         By Patrick O’Sullivan                           Patrick O’Sullivan reports
                                                                                                                 12 Active Walkway resource
                                                                                                                    pack with Active School Flag
                                                                                                                                                                     19 ‘Hill Fever’
                                                                                                                                                                         A poem by Peadar Ó Riordán
                                                                                                                                                                                                            24         MULTI-DAY LEINSTER HIKE

                                                                                                                         Linda Sankey reports
                                                                                                                 13 Get Ireland Walking podcast
                                                                                                                         Linda Sankey reports
                                                                                                                                                                     News Features                         44 Diversity in the outdoors
                                                                                                                                                                                                                By Neruja Srikantharajah
                                                                                                                                                                     20 Sheep, sucklers and                48 A Norwegian odyssey
                                                                                                                                                                        saving lives                            By Peter Owens
                                                                                                                                                                         By Rodney Magowan
                                                                                                                                                                                                           52 Rock climbing changed
                                                                                                                                                                     22 Artefacts underfoot                   my life
                                                                                                                                                                         By Matthew Seaver and                  By Anastasija Strizakova
                                                                                                                                                                         Graeme Warren

                                                                                                                                                                                                           Regulars
                                                                                                                                                                     Features                         29 Crossword Competition
                                                                                                                                                                     24 Mountains of the East: hiking 56 Members’ Support
                                                                                                                                                                        the Great Leinster Chain         Ruth Whelan reports
                                                                                                                                                                        By Aidan Ennis
                                                                                                                                                                                                      58 Access & Conservation
                                                                                                                                                                     30 My Mourne Wall Challenge         Helen Lawless reports
                                                                                                                                                                         By Paul Maguire
                                                                                                                                                                                                           60 Training
                                                                                                                                                                     36 Georgia’s Koruldi Ridge                 Jane Carney reports
                                                                                                                                                                         By Fergal Hingerty
                                                                                                                                                                                                           62 Books
                                                                                                                     Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll completes traverse   38 Orla Perć: Path of Eagles               Reviews of recent books
                                                                                                                                                                         By Justyna Gruszczyk
                                                                                                                                                                                                           65 The Last Word
                                                                                                                     7      FITZ ROY SOLO TRAVERSE                   42 Starting rock climbing
                                                                                                                                                                         By Audrey Elliott
                                                                                                                                                                                                                – Hamish MacInnes
                                                                                                                                                                                                                – Peadar Ó Riordán
                                                                                                                 4    Irish Mountain Log                                                                                                    Spring 2021
Mountains of the East - Mountaineering Ireland
Newsdesk
 Staff & Board
 General enquirieS
 info@mountaineering.ie

 Staff
 Chief executive Officer
 Murrough McDonagh,
 murrough@mountaineering.ie
 administration Officer
 Siobhán Quinn, info@mountaineering.ie
 Hillwalking Development Officer
                                              Be safe, responsible, considerate
 Ruth Whelan, ruth@mountaineering.ie          Our latest Covid-19 advice for hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland
 access & Conservation Officer
 Helen Lawless, helen@mountaineering.ie                                                            Everyone should continue to be aware
 training Officer                                                                                of the risk factors for getting Covid-19:
 Jane Carney, jane@mountaineering.ie
 training & Membership                                                                           ● Distance The risk of getting Covid-19
 Support administrator                                                                             increases as the distance between
 Laura Griffin, laura@mountaineering.ie                                                            you and others gets smaller. Keep two
 Climbing Officer                                                                                  metres apart, where possible.
 Damien O’Sullivan,
 damien@mountaineering.ie
                                                                                                 ● Activity How you spend time with
                                                                                                   people, and what you do with them,
 Get irelanD WalkinG initiative                                                                    can increase your risk. Follow the
 Programme Manager, Get ireland Walking                                                            government’s Stay Safe guidelines
 Jason King, jason@getirelandwalking.ie       This advice from Mountaineering Ireland is
                                                                                                   when spending time with others.
 Communications & administrative Officer,     for all hillwalkers and climbers. It is based
 Get ireland Walking                          on the current restrictions, in place in           ● Time The more time you spend in
 Linda Sankey, linda@getirelandwalking.ie     March. Our understanding is that, while the          close contact with other people, the
                                              restrictions will be reviewed after Easter, it       greater your risk of getting Covid-19.
 MOuntaineerinG irelanD                       is unlikely that there will be any major             Keep track of who you spend time
 BOarD OffiCerS                                                                                    with, and how.
                                              relaxation in the restrictions for some time
 President
 Paul Kellagher
                                              after that.                                        ● Symptoms Know the symptoms. If
 president@mountaineering.ie                     The purpose of this advice is to highlight        you have any of them, self-isolate and
 Chairperson                                  the additional considerations that we                contact your GP immediately.
 Paul Barron                                  should be aware of due to Covid-19. It
 chairperson@mountaineering.ie                builds on the good practice which is               Landowners, rural communities
                                              commonplace among responsible                      When we are able to return to the hills
 BOarD MeMBerS                                hillwalkers and climbers: checking weather
 Imelda Buckley
                                                                                                 and crags, be mindful and respectful of
                                              forecasts, checking access arrangements,           the landowners and local communities in
 (Chair of Finance, Audit & Risk Committee)
                                              selecting routes that are appropriate for          the places where you walk and climb.
 imelda-board@mountaineering.ie
                                              fitness, skill and experience, environmental        People living in rural areas may be
 David Pollard
                                              awareness, etc.
 (Chair of Access & Conservation Committee)                                                      nervous to see groups of people in their
 david-board@mountaineering.ie
                                                 Since the arrival of Covid-19 on the island     areas. Consider, too, that upland areas
 Colette Mahon                                of Ireland, many aspects of our lives have         have a higher proportion of older
 colette-board@mountaineering.ie              changed. Together, we have adhered to              residents.
 Michael Maunsell                             government restrictions and public health
                                                                                                   Keep group sizes small, park
 mike-board@mountaineering.ie                 advice. Thanks to this collective effort,
                                                                                                 responsibly and, if possible, away from
 Gráinne McLaughlin                           progress has been made in the fight
                                                                                                 residences, and plan your route to avoid
 (Chair of Hillwalking Committee)             against Covid-19. We all still need to play
                                                                                                 passing close to homes or through
 grainne-board@mountaineering.ie              our part in keeping it suppressed. As
                                                                                                 farmyards.
 Clare O’Connor                               restrictions ease, our personal and social
 clare-board@mountaineering.ie                responsibility becomes ever more                   ➠ For current and more detailed advice,
 Geoff Thomas                                 important.                                         see www.mountaineering.ie/covid19 ■
 (Chair of Climbing Committee)
 geoff-board@mountaineering.ie
 Noel Caffrey
 noel-board@mountaineering.ie
                                              Summary of current restrictions
 Kevin O’Callaghan
 (Chair of Mountain Training Board Ireland)                                     Northern Ireland                 Republic of Ireland
 kevin-board@mountaineering.ie
                                                                              Avoid all unnecessary travel.     Avoid all unnecessary travel.
                                              Travel                        Exercise within 10 miles of home    Exercise within 5km of home

                                                                              Only individual or household      Only individual or household
                                              Hillwalking, rock-climbing permitted (within 10 miles of home) permitted (within 5km of home)

                                              Club activity outdoors                      No                                 No
                                              Climbing walls                            Closed                            Closed

Spring 2021                                                                                                        Irish Mountain Log           5
Mountains of the East - Mountaineering Ireland
NEWSL0G

                                                    Increase in call-outs in 2020
                                                    A year-end report from Ruth Cunniffe, Public Relations Officer for Mountain Rescue Ireland

                                                    T
                                                               he year 2020 was              month period, whereas there
                                                               an incredibly trying          were 345 in 2020, an almost
                                                               year for everyone,            5% increase, with quarterly
                                                               and was also a                figures varying in relation to
                                                               particularly                  the season and the level of
                                                    challenging year for members             restrictions in place across
                                                    of the eleven mountain                   the country.
                                                    rescue teams on the island of               During the week or so
                                                    Ireland.                                 leading up to the cold snap
                                                       On top of the new infection           that was seen earlier this year
                                                    control protocols that teams             across the country, some
                                                    have had to adopt, and the               mountain rescue teams were
                                                    resulting reduced numbers of             put under enormous pressure
                                                    team members able to                     by the number of call-outs
                                                    attend call-outs, there was              that occurred. Some of these
                                                    also an overall increase in the          call-outs were absolutely
                                                    number of call-outs                      needless, with people putting
                                                    responded to by the teams in             themselves (along with the
                                                    2020, compared to the                    voluntary mountain rescue
                                                    previous year.                           personnel) in unnecessary
                                                       When you look at the                  danger. Heading out for a hike
                                                    annual statistics for                    in bad weather, or going ill-
                                                    mountain rescue call-outs,               equipped and untrained for
                                                    you can see that the number              some of the conditions likely
Photograph & infographic: Mountain Rescue Ireland

                                                    of call-outs actually                    to be encountered, is not a
                                                    increased slightly between               wise decision to make at any
                                                    2019 and 2020 (see table). In            time, but particularly during
                                                    2019, there were 330                     the ongoing Covid-19
                                                    incidents over the twelve-               pandemic.

                                                                                      2019                     2020                 Mountaineering Ireland, as    hillwalking and climbing are
                                                        Quarter 1                       75                       61              the representative body for      permitted, they are advising
                                                                                                                                 hillwalkers and climbers, has    that people ask themselves
                                                        Quarter 2                       95                       57
                                                                                                                                 expressed its concern about      the three Adventure Smart
                                                        Quarter 3                      103                      137              the increased number of call-    questions before venturing
                                                        Quarter 4                       57                       90              outs. They are encouraging all   out:
                                                        Total                          330                      345              hillwalkers and climbers to
                                                                                                                                                                  Q1 Do I have the right gear?
                                                                                                                                 adhere to the Covid-19
                                                    All eleven teams on the island of Ireland are represented in these numbers   restrictions in place. When
                                                                                                                                                                  Q2 Do I know what the
                                                                                                                                                                     weather will be like?

                                                                                                                                                                  Q3 Am I confident I have the
                                                                                                                                                                     knowledge and skills
                                                                                                                                                                     for the day?
                                                                                                                                                                    It is particularly important to
                                                                                                                                                                  try to avoid having to call out
                                                                                                                                                                  the mountain rescue teams at
                                                                                                                                                                  this time.
                                                                                                                                                                    The primary advice from
                                                                                                                                                                  Mountain Rescue Ireland is
                                                                                                                                                                  also to adhere to all
                                                                                                                                                                  government guidelines and to
                                                                                                                                                                  always ask yourself the three
                                                                                                                                                                  questions above each time
                                                                                                                                                                  you are thinking about
                                                                                                                                                                  heading out into the hills ■
                                                    6     Irish Mountain Log                                                                                                         Spring 2021
Mountains of the East - Mountaineering Ireland
Solo traverse of Fitz Roy massif completed
                                                                                                                                 By Patrick O’Sullivan

                                                                                                                                 In February of this year,
                                                                                                                                 Irish-Belgian climber
                                                                                                                                 Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll
                                                                                                                                 completed a solo six-day
                                                                                                                                 traverse of the Fitz Roy massif
                                                                                                                                 in Patagonia. The five-
                                                                                                                                 kilometre traverse involved
                                                                                                                                 around 4,000m of ascent.
                                                                                                                                 From February 5th to 10th, Sean
                                                                                                                                 followed the ridge south to
                                                                                                                                 north, summiting ten peaks in
                                                                                                                                 the massif, including Cerro
                                                                                                                                 Fitz Roy (3,359m). This was
                                                                                                                                 the first time that this traverse
                                                                                                                                 was completed by a solo
                                                                                                                                 climber.
                                                                                                                                                                     Cerro Fitz Roy (3,359m) and the Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia

                                                                                                                                                                    where he is mainly based.             Ben Ditto. The team put up        reverse for some time,
                                                                                                                                                                    He started sport climbing,            nine new big wall routes          because it would be more
                                                                                                                                                                    but soon moved on to                  there, most of which started      adventurous and it hadn’t
                                                                                                                                                                    climbing trad routes. Clearly         from a sailboat named Dodo’s      been done before in that
                                                                                                                                                                    very talented, he has gone on         Delight. In 2014, they returned   direction. He carried a large
Photos: Todor Bozhinov (Fitz Roy massif), Rolo Garibotti/@patagoniavertical (topo), Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll (self portrait)

                                                                                                                                                                    to make first ascents of big           to Greenland on the same          pack with ten days’ supplies
                                                                                                                                                                    walls in some very remote             boat and put up another ten       and climbing and camping
                                                                                                                                    The ridge was first              locations around the world,           new routes.                       equipment, plus his faithful
                                                                                                                                 traversed in February 2014 by      including Patagonia, Pakistan,          Since early last year, Sean     tin whistle. He rope-soloed
                                                                                                                                 Tommy Caldwell and Alex            Baffin Island and Greenland.           has been living in El Chaltén,    all of the climbing, and he
                                                                                                                                 Honnold, who went north to         Since his childhood, he has           a mountain village in             free-soloed some of the
                                                                                                                                 south. They named their            been making twice-yearly              Patagonia, Argentina, where       scrambling, as the pack was
                                                                                                                                 route the Fitz Traverse.           trips to Ireland and, amongst         he was trapped by the             too heavy to climb with.
                                                                                                                                 Sections of the route ranged       other venues here, has                Covid-19 lockdown. He                In his traverse, he climbed
                                                                                                                                 in difficulty up to 6c (5.11d).     climbed at Fair Head, County          says he could have been           the seven main peaks on the
                                                                                                                                    Sean’s solo climb was the       Antrim.                               repatriated, but it wasn’t a      ridge, and three of the smaller
                                                                                                                                 second traverse of the ridge,         Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll         bad place to be through the       peaks, in six days.
                                                                                                                                 albeit in the reverse direction.   received a Piolet d’Or in 2010        worst of the pandemic in             Completing this traverse
                                                                                                                                 He named his climb the             for an expedition he made to          Europe: it was “like being in a   solo confirms Sean Villanueva
                                                                                                                                 Moonwalk Traverse.                 Greenland, together with his          giant playground!”                O’Driscoll’s place among the
                                                                                                                                    Sean started climbing at        climbing partners, Nicolas              Sean had been thinking          élite of top world-class
                                                                                                                                 the age of 13 in Belgium,          Favresse, Oliver Favresse and         about doing the traverse in       climbers ■

                                                                                                                                 Spring 2021                                                                                                       Irish Mountain Log    7
Mountains of the East - Mountaineering Ireland
CLUBS

                                                                                                                   The Blackrock Passage West Greenway: it extends from Blackrock Castle to Passage West in Cork city

                                                                                                                   CORK CLUB CELEBRATES 45th YEAR
                                                                                                                   Cork Mountaineering Club celebrated its 45th anniversary last November by walking
                                                                                                                   locally. The club’s President, Margaret Kennedy, reports
Photographs: Heather Johnson (Blackrock Passage Greenway), Eileen Buckley (The Paps), Jill O’Leary (The Gearagh)

                                                                                                                                                                                        T
                                                                                                                                                                                                   hese anniversaries       Knockmealdowns on the
                                                                                                                                                                                                   seem to be coming        anniversary had to be
                                                                                                                                                                                                   around ever faster!      abandoned.
                                                                                                                                                                                                   November 6th, 2020,         However, the club’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                   was the 45th             committee was still keen to
                                                                                                                                                                                        anniversary of the inauguration     mark this milestone. Working
                                                                                                                                                                                        of Cork Mountaineering Club.        within the Covid-19 restrictions
                                                                                                                                                                                        The club is still on the go, with   at that time, members were
                                                                                                                                                                                        eighty-two members and a few        invited to do a minimum of a
                                                                                                                                                                                        people continuing with unbroken     45-minute walk on November 6th
                                                                                                                                                                                        annual membership to this day.      and to send a few details on the
                                                                                                                                                                                          Alas, courtesy of Covid-19, for   route to the club secretary. All
                                                                                                                                                                                        the past year or so we have         respondents were entered into
                                                                                                                                                                                        mostly been a hillwalking club      a draw for a copy of
                                                                                                                                                                                        with no hills to go to. A plan to   Mountaineering Ireland’s
                                                                                                                                                                                        have a repeat of the club’s first    recently published book,
                                                                                                                                                                                        official walk on the                 Irish Peaks.

                                                                                                                    Distant view of the Paps, Co Kerry                                   The Gearagh, Co Cork

                                                                                                                     8    Irish Mountain Log                                                                                                   Spring 2021
Mountains of the East - Mountaineering Ireland
Cork Mountaineering Club                                           Our 50th anniversary
                                                   Today our club is forty-five years old,
                                                   Keeping restrictions, far hikes are on hold.                       Mountaineering Ireland marks its 50th year
                                                   So I stay close to home, as I head out for my walk,
                                                   I miss all my friends and especially the talk.
                                                   Out I go, it’s a quarter to nine,
                                                   fingers crossed, weather stays fine.
                                                   Two cyclists I see on their morning spin,
                                                   My neighbour outside, taking in his bin.
                                                   I keep near the hedge as the cars drive past,
                                                   I wish to God they wouldn’t go so fast.                            In 1971, the Federation of Mountaineering Clubs of Ireland was
                                                   The fields each side are lovely to see,                             established with seven member clubs. Today’s
                                                   A stream flows through one on its way to the Lee.                   Mountaineering Ireland has grown from those humble
                                                   Leaves on the trees, all different shades,                         foundations and is now the representative body for hillwalkers
                                                   green, brown, orange and red.                                      and climbers on the island of Ireland. It has developed and
                                                   Two magpies I see, high up on a shed,                              broadened its reach and support to all those involved in, or
                                                                                                                      looking to get involved in, hillwalking, climbing and
                                                   Cows out grazing, and also some sheep;
                                                                                                                      mountaineering activities. Indeed, prior to the Covid-19
                                                   Nice and content, they don’t make a bleep.
                                                                                                                      restrictions, its membership was increasing annually and, by
                                                   I approach a house, I know a dog lives inside,                     the end of the 2019/2020 season, it had risen to 14,000-plus
                                                   I quicken my pace, my fear I can’t hide.                           members, with a total of 191 member clubs.
                                                   Oops, out he comes, barking like mad,                                 The year 2021 sees the celebration of Mountaineering
                                                   The gate is locked, I am so glad.                                  Ireland’s 50th anniversary and, although it is not possible to
                                                                                                                      celebrate with all our members in person on the hills and crags
                                                   A postman pulls up, some parcels he drops,
                                                                                                                      as we would like, we still feel that this major milestone
                                                   shopping online, people missing the shops.
                                                                                                                      deserves to be marked in some way. For now, we plan to
                                                   I turn round the bend, another car speeds past,                    celebrate virtually and share some of the wonderful history,
                                                   I pray to myself the Covid won’t last,                             including some of the achievements of Mountaineering Ireland
                                                   For I miss the mountains, the company, chats,                      and its members over the years, through video(s) to be aired
                                                   Happy anniversary to my club now!                                  on our social media platforms in the coming months.
                                                   Please raise your hats!                                            Please note: if you have any old photographs, video footage
                                                                                                                      or other interesting materials related to Mountaineering
                                                   Myra Heffernan                                                     Ireland’s history which you would like to share with us, please
                                                                                                                      email us at: info@mountaineering.ie.
                                                                                                                         It is hoped that, as the year progresses and restrictions ease,
                                                  Forty-seven members took        Harbour and the university.         we will be able to hold events around the island of Ireland, with
                                                up the challenge and              The army firing range in             our members, to help celebrate and mark this special occasion
                                                enthusiastically clocked up an    Kilworth even got a mention.        together.
                                                overall total of 240 kilometres      Popular routes in Cork city         In the meantime, keep safe and best wishes,
                                                between them. Reports             included Tramore River Valley,
                                                flooded in of walks by castles,    the Lough, the Marina and the       Murrough McDonagh
                                                bridges, ponds, rivers, lakes,    Atlantic Pond. Further afield,       Chief Executive Officer
                                                estuaries, beaches, greenways,    walks were completed along
                                                parks, woodlands, Cork            the River Blackwater in

                                                                                                                   Mallow, on the beaches of          Blarney, now a suburb of Cork
                                                                                                                   Garryvoe, and in Inchydoney.       city, news of recently added
                                                                                                                     To the west, we heard of         amenities.
                                                                                                                   walks in Kilmurray Woods and          The richness, variety and
Photograph: Miriam Rohan (River Martin Trail)

                                                                                                                   on Sleaveen Hill, known locally    diversity of routes not only
                                                                                                                   as the Turret, near Macroom,       reflected members’
                                                                                                                   overlooking the Gearagh.           enthusiasm but left us looking
                                                                                                                     One member walked                forward, when permitted, to
                                                                                                                   ‘The Token Fire’ under the         the prospect of evening walks
                                                                                                                   Paps, while others enjoyed         guided by our many well-
                                                                                                                   Tracton Woods near                 informed members.
                                                                                                                   Carrigaline, and a stroll around      Perhaps the poem above,
                                                                                                                   Cobh.                              penned by my friend and
                                                                                                                     We learned a bit of history      fellow club member Myra
                                                                                                                   from around Mallow, home of        Heffernan, sums up that day,
                                                 River Martin Trail, Blarney
                                                                                                                   a white deer herd in one of its    like so many others last
                                                                                                                   three castles, and from            November ■
                                                Spring 2021                                                                                                   Irish Mountain Log     9
Mountains of the East - Mountaineering Ireland
AN APPRECIATION

                                                                                                           DOUG SCOTT CBE
                                                                                                           An outstanding British mountaineer and pioneer of big-wall climbing

                                                                                                           By Patrick O’Sullivan
                                                                                                                                                      mountaineering luminaries, Walter           with Peter Habeler; the first ascent of
                                                                                                                                                      Bonatti and Reinhold Messner.               Changabang (6,864m) in the Garhwal
                                                                                                                                                         Douglas (‘Doug’) Keith Scott was born    Himalaya, with Chris Bonington and
                                                                                                                                                      in Nottingham, England, in 1941 and was     Dougal Haston in 1974; the first ascent
                                                                                                                                                      educated there. As a child, he was          of the south-west face of Everest with
                                                                                                                                                      encouraged to explore the surrounding       Haston in 1975, when they famously
                                                                                                                                                      countryside, particularly the Peak          survived a bivouac in the open, 100m
                                                                                                                                                      District, by his father, an enthusiastic    below the then 8,848m summit (now
                                                                                                                                                      amateur sportsman. He saw people rock       officially 8,848.86m); and the first
                                                                                                                                                      climbing in Derbyshire while on a hiking    ascent of the south face of Denali,
                                                                                                                                                      trip there with the Scouts, and that        also with Haston, in 1976.
                                                                                                                                                      started a lifelong passion.                    In 1977, Scott joined Bonington again
                                                                                                                                                         He attended Loughborough Teachers'       on The Ogre (Baintha Brakk, 7,285m) in
                                                                                                                                                      Training College for two years and then     the Karakoram, where he broke both
                                                                                                                                                      taught geography, history and PE for ten    ankles in an abseiling accident on the
                                                                                                                                                      years, at the same secondary modern         descent from the summit and had to
                                                                                                                                                      school in Nottingham that he had            crawl off the mountain on his knees,
                                                                                                                                                      attended. He was married three times        assisted by his fellow mountaineers,
                                                                                                                                                      and had five children. Scott ended up        in an epic descent that highlighted
                                                                                                                                                      living in the Lake District, where he       Scott’s determination to survive,

                                                                                                           D
                                                                                                                            oug Scott, an             passed away in December.
                                                                                                                            outstanding British                                                   whatever the odds.
                                                                                                                            mountaineer, died in                                                     In 1979, with Peter Boardman and
Photographs: Chris Bonington (Scott during Everest climb, 1975), Dougal Haston (Scott on Everest summit)

                                                                                                                            December 2020, having                                                 Joe Tasker, Scott made the third ascent
                                                                                                                            been diagnosed with an                                                of Kanchenjunga (8,586m), the first
                                                                                                                            inoperable brain tumour                                               without supplementary oxygen and the
                                                                                                           earlier in the year. He was aged 79.                                                   first via a new route on the north ridge.
                                                                                                             Scott’s impressive list of pioneering                                                He subsequently climbed the north
                                                                                                           first ascents in the Greater Ranges                                                     face of Nuptse (7,861m) in Nepal and
                                                                                                           included the first ascent of the                                                        Shivling (6,543m) in India with Georges
                                                                                                           south-west face of Mount Everest                                                       Bettembourg and various other
                                                                                                           with Dougal Haston in 1975.                                                            climbers.
                                                                                                             All told, he took part in forty-five                                                     In 1982, Scott made an alpine-style
                                                                                                           expeditions and made thirty first                                                       first ascent of the south-west face of
                                                                                                           ascents. Among the many awards given                                                   Shishapangma (8,027m) via the
                                                                                                           to him, Doug received the third lifetime                                               right-hand couloir, with Alex MacIntyre
                                                                                                           award of the Piolet d’Or in 2011,                                                      and Roger Baxter-Jones, in what was
                                                                                                           following in the footsteps of two other                                                the sixth successful ascent of that
                                                                                                                                                      Doug Scott on summit of Everest in 1975     mountain.
                                                                                                                                                                                                     Following his success on El Capitan’s
                                                                                                                                                        While initially known as an aid climber   Salathé Wall, Scott pioneered big-wall
                                                                                                                                                                                                  climbing with his ascents of Mount
                                                                                                                                                      on British rock, in the Dolomites and on
                                                                                                                                                                                                  Asgard (2,015m) on Baffin Island,
                                                                                                                                                      the Troll Wall, as he became more
                                                                                                                                                                                                  Canada; Mount Kenya (5,199m) in
                                                                                                                                                      experienced in the Greater Ranges, Doug
                                                                                                                                                                                                  Kenya; and The Ogre (7,285m) and
                                                                                                                                                      Scott became a committed advocate for
                                                                                                                                                                                                  Shivling (6,543m) in the Karakorum.
                                                                                                                                                      free climbing and an alpine-style              Doug Scott wrote several very popular
                                                                                                                                                      approach to big climbs. He felt that the    mountaineering books, including Big
                                                                                                                                                      way you climbed was more important          Wall Climbing; The Shishapangma
                                                                                                                                                      than your success on a route.               Expedition (with Alex MacIntyre), which
                                                                                                                                                        His many first ascents included the        won the 1984 Boardman Tasker Award;
                                                                                                                                                      first European ascent in 1970 of the         Himalayan Climber: A Lifetime’s Quest to
                                                                                                           Doug Scott during Everest climb in 1975    Salathé Wall on El Capitan, in Yosemite,    the World’s Greater Ranges; Up and
                                                                                                           10    Irish Mountain Log                                                                                           Spring 2021
Doug Scott pictured with Chris Bonington, with whom he Dougal Haston on the Hillary Step. This classic image among Everest fans is part of Scott’s
                                                                                                    frequently climbed.                                    exquisite back-catalogue of mountain imagery.

                                                                                                    About: The Hard Road to Everest, the first            International Climbing and                     on having time to sell various items,
                                                                                                    part of his biography; and The Ogre.                 Mountaineering Foundation (UIAA).              such as his own posters as well as
                                                                                                    He also contributed to several other                 He was also made a Freeman of the City         artefacts produced in Nepal, in support
                                                                                                    expedition books and was an excellent                of Nottingham in 1976, and received            of that charity.
                                                                                                    mountain photographer.                               many honorary degrees in the UK.                  Over the years, Scott visited Ireland
                                                                                                       Scott was President of the Alpine Club               Doug Scott’s life appears to have been      several times. The talks he gave were
                                                                                                    from 1999 to 2001, where he promoted                 a voyage of self-discovery, from his initial   always interesting and impressive, with
                                                                                                    ethical mountaineering, and he was                   discovery that he was a good climber,          great supporting images, but in later
                                                                                                    made a CBE in 1994. He was also patron               to his later realisation of his abilities in   years his focus in the intermission and
                                                                                                    of the British Mountaineering Council                big-wall climbing and high-altitude            afterwards was always on his
                                                                                                    until the time of his death.                         mountaineering, and his focus on ethical       fundraising for Community Action
                                                                                                       Scott received many other awards and              mountaineering and ‘pure’ alpine-style         Nepal. One of his last fundraising
                                                                                                    accolades during his lifetime, including             ascents. It was also a spiritual journey for   initiatives in the lockdown was a
                                                                                                    the John Muir Trust Lifetime                         him, as his interest in Buddhism grew.         sponsored stair climb in support of
Photographs: Doug Scott (Douglas Haston on Hillary Step), Community Action Nepal (school opening)

                                                                                                    Achievement Award for his                               He became involved in supporting            Community Action Nepal.
                                                                                                    mountaineering achievements and his                  mountain communities in Nepal through             “Doug was an amazing person and
                                                                                                    commitment to conservation and                       Community Action Nepal (CAN), the              had an absolutely amazing life,” said
                                                                                                    supporting mountain peoples. As                      charity he established in 1989. In his later   Chris Bonington. “He has given so much
                                                                                                    mentioned above, he also received the                years, he focused very much on raising         to so many people.”
                                                                                                    Piolet D’Or Lifetime Achievement Award               funds for that charity, and devoted much          May he rest in peace.
                                                                                                    in Chamonix in 2011.                                 of his time to working for it and visiting
                                                                                                       Last year, Scott received a prestigious           its projects in Nepal.                         Doug Scott: born May 29th, 1941; died
                                                                                                    Honorary Membership of the                              Whenever he gave a talk, Scott insisted     December 7th, 2020 ■

                                                                                                                                                                                                        An ailing Doug Scott takes part in the stair-climbing
                                                                                                                                                                                                        Everest Challenge 2020 in the same outfit he wore
                                                                                                    Doug Scott and his last wife, on behalf of their charity CAN, officially open a school in Nepal.     on Everest in 1975 (see photo opposite).

                                                                                                    Spring 2021                                                                                                              Irish Mountain Log          11
NEWSL0G

                             Active Walkway resource pack with Active School Flag
                             By Linda Sankey, Get Ireland Walking                                 of clothes or footwear, so it’s an ideal lunchtime activity for both
                                                                                                  staff and students. Research suggests there are many benefits
                             Since 2017, Get Ireland Walking has partnered with Active School     to walking meetings. Teachers can bring meetings outdoors on
                             Flag to encourage and support the physical education                 the Walkway route. The Walkway can be used to support the
                             programme in schools and promote active learning across a            outdoor and adventure strand (orienteering, walking activities,
                             wide variety of subject areas.                                       team challenges) and to help develop children’s fundamental
                                Research shows that all children and young people need sixty      movement skills.
                             minutes of moderate to vigorous physical activity every day.
                                                                                                    The Walkway is an environmental cue for inquiry, questioning
                              In Ireland, 83% of primary school pupils do not meet these
                                                                                                  and the solving of problems during teaching, learning and
                             physical activity guidelines, and 90% of post-primary pupils do
                                                                                                  assessment activities. It facilitates learning activities that
                             not meet the physical activity guidelines either.
                                Sitting time adds up – sitting eating, sitting doing homework,    support the teacher’s role as a leader and a facilitator of subject
                             sitting using the computer, sitting during school, sitting while     learning through the medium of physical activity.
                             watching TV or gaming … the list goes on.                              In primary schools, key teaching approaches such as play-
                                The good news is that physically active children have more        based learning, inquiry-based learning and cooperative learning
                             active brains!                                                       are all interlinked and are essential to ensuring our children
                                                                                                  develop important life skills and competencies.
                               Sitting Less + Moving More = Learning Better                         The Walkway pack includes an Ideas booklet, which has lots of
                               After twenty minutes of physical activity, students tested         different ideas about how the Walkway route can be used to
                             better in reading, spelling and maths and were more likely to read   promote cross-curricular learning.
                             above their grade level.                                               Schools across Ireland have adapted the Walkway to suit their
                               The Walkway resource pack was developed for schools to use         environment, Boston National School in County Clare uses the
                             while working towards the Active School Flag. The resource pack      beautiful dry-stone walls there, while Coláiste Bríde in Clondalkin,
Image: Get Ireland Walking

                             provides everything that schools need to mark out a                  Co Dublin, has inspiration quotes on their Walkway. SS Michael
                             walking/running route around the perimeter of the school
                                                                                                  and Peter Junior School in Arklow, Co Wicklow, has an Active Fairy
                             grounds. The Walkway can be used to energise the school day,
                                                                                                  Route on its walkway. Why not see if your children’s school is
                             support physical education and promote active learning.
                                                                                                  working towards the Active School Flag?
                               It can also be used to generate extra active minutes for
                             everyone throughout the school day! Students can be
                             encouraged to walk the Walkway with their friends before school
                                                                                                  ➲ Find out more at:
                                                                                                    www.getirelandwalking.ie/walkingprogrammes/schools
                             starts. Take active break times – walking doesn’t require a change        and www.activeschoolflag.ie ■
                             12   Irish Mountain Log                                                                                                    Spring 2021
Get Ireland Walking podcast
                             Get Ireland Walking’s vision of a vibrant culture of walking   ➲ You  can find out more at:
                                                                                              www.getirelandwalking.ie/podcast
                             throughout Ireland, and our mission to empower people
                             to choose to walk more often for recreation, transport
                             and health as part of their everyday life, informs
                                                                                            ➲ Ifpodcast,
                                                                                                 you have a story that you think might make a
                                                                                                         contact us at
                             everything we do as an organisation.                               communications@getirelandwalking.ie.
                                With that in mind, we are thrilled to announce that we      ➲ Find  us on Spotify, Apple Podcast or wherever you
                                                                                              listen to your podcasts ■
                             have launched our first podcast series!
                                The podcast will shine a light on the many individuals in
                             Ireland who live, work and play in the walking space. The
                             podcast is presented by Get Ireland Walking’s
                             communications officer, Linda Sankey, and researcher
                             Dylan Power.                                                                     AUTHOR: Linda Sankey is Communications
                                                                                                              Officer with Get Ireland Walking. Get Ireland
Image: Get Ireland Walking

                                We will chat with walking researchers; people who
                                                                                                              Walking is an initiative of Sport Ireland,
                             deliver walking programmes and events; policy-makers;                            supported by Healthy Ireland and hosted
                             and – most importantly, – we’ll talk to real walkers to help                     and delivered by Mountaineering Ireland.
                             shine a light on some of their amazing programmes and                            FIND OUT MORE: To find out more about Get
                                                                                                              Ireland Walking, visit the website
                             the groups that walk every day in Ireland.                                       www.getirelandwalking.ie, contact us on
                                                                                                              (01) 625 1109 or email Linda Sankey at
                                                                                                              info@getirelandwalking.ie.

                             Spring 2021                                                                                          Irish Mountain Log     13
VIEWPOINT

                            ‘One from the Hills!’
                            Brendan Roche has this great proposal: “Let’s remove one piece of
                            litter from the ground every time we go hiking.” He explains why
                                                                          tons of rubbish being recycled.
                                                                            The good example of removing one
                                                                          recyclable item from the ground each
                                                                          time we go hiking would also highlight
                                                                          the problem to others with or near us at
                                                                          the time. With support and publicity,
                                                                          the most likely outcome from this
                                                                          campaign would be that there would
                                                                          be little or no litter left on our awesome
                                                                          hills and mountains.
                                                                            It is important to note that this
                                                                          initiative potentially only works if you
                                                                          confine your efforts to just removing
                            I imagine that we all get a buzz from         one item on each visit to the hills. Why
                            hiking in the hills, be it from overcoming    so? Removing a greater number of
                            a challenge, reaching a summit, seeing a      pieces of rubbish on each visit would
                            stunning view or simply experiencing          spoil the hikes for you and ultimately
                            companionship with our fellow hikers.         lead to disillusionment and
                            We particularly get great pleasure from       abandonment of the practice. So, stick
                            our interaction with the beauty of our        to one item. It is simple and it will work.
                            stunning mountains. However,                  Try it.
                            occasionally, when we encounter litter          National Spring Clean Week is the
                            on our hikes, we may experience the           time for a club or individuals to perhaps
                            opposite – anger and bewilderment at          organise a clean-up on a bigger stage,
                            such outrageous behaviour by our fellow       where there is a more serious problem.
                            human beings. There is no doubt about         So, go on! Adopt this simple practice
                            it: beauty dies where litter lies!            and promote it, so that we will have the
                               Experienced hikers know to leave           cleanest, as well as the most beautiful,
                            nothing but footprints behind.                hills in the world!
                            Unfortunately, some others are the              It is so simple to remove one can or
                            complete opposite in this respect and         piece of plastic or a glass bottle on
                            leave all sorts of rubbish. For every         each hike. We have shown the world
                            problem, there are many solutions, but I      how to do it with plastic shopping bags
                            would like to suggest one simple              and, surely, we can do the same simply
                            solution to reducing the growing              with the litter on our beloved hills? It’s a
                            problem of litter on our hills: we should     winner, so let’s do it!
                            simply promote the practice that, when          We have Tidy Towns, so why not Tidy
                            we are out on the hills, we bring back        Mountains? What a novel and simple
                            home just one item of litter for recycling.   way to contribute towards putting a
                            This ‘power of one’ will work to reduce,      bad year behind us, and a wonderful
                            and eventually eliminate, this national       and enchanting environment
                            travesty.                                     henceforth before us.
                               Consider the numbers involved and            Do it. Think and do. “One from the
Photograph: Brendan Roche

                            the possible mathematics. I go out            Hills!”
                            hillwalking perhaps forty-plus times a
                                                                          Hillwalker Brendan Roche is the founding
                            year, so I would bring home
                                                                          Chairperson of Setanta Mountain Goats
                            approximately forty-plus pieces of litter     Hillwalking Club. He is also founder and
                            for recycling. Now, multiply this by the      member of Blackrock Tidy Towns, Co Louth,
                            tens of thousands of regular hillwalkers      winner of Ireland’s Tidiest Small Town in
                            that there are and it becomes tons and        2019 ■
                            14   Irish Mountain Log                                                                      Spring 2021
NEWSL0G

                              Let’s all #CleanTheHills
                              Let’s take responsibility for the hills and crags where we recreate, writes Aisling Kennedy

                              It was raining – a lot. We walked back       make their way into the food chain. One              kinds of rubbish on the hills to be
                              down to Ticknock car park after being        of us should have picked up that                     cleared up by hikers. Larger items such
                              up at the top of Three Rock in the Dublin    chocolate wrapper!                                   as dumped mattresses will not fit in
                              Mountains. Then we saw it, a wet                There is a Clean Coasts initiative, the           your jacket pocket! However, the county
                              chocolate bar wrapper lying on the           #2MinuteBeachClean. Imagine if every                 councils provide telephone numbers
                              ground. We all considered pocketing it,      single person collected rubbish for two              and email addresses to report these
                              but none of us picked it up.                 minutes each time they visited the                   larger pieces of rubbish.
                                 We all know that plastic does not ever    beach. Imagine if every person who                      We are the people who benefit most
                              fully decompose. It just breaks down         went out hillwalking or climbing picked              from these beautiful areas. If we want to
                              into smaller and smaller pieces. There is    up some rubbish while they were out!                 keep them pristine, then we need to
                              strong evidence to suggest that these        It could be a #CleanTheHills!                        take responsibility for what other people
                              tiny pieces of plastic do get eaten and         Of course, it is not possible for all             leave behind ■

                                                                                                                           Crossword results
                                                                                                    The winner of our crossword in IML 136 was Maitiú Ó Coimín, of Trá an
                                                                                                    Bhaile Bhoicht, Ballybough, Dublin 3, who won a set of men’s Icebreaker
                                                                                                    Oasis Crewe baselayers (top and leggings), a prize worth €169.90, from
                                                                                                    our crossword sponsor, Basecamp. The solution to the crossword is
                                                                                                    shown below. Mountaineering Ireland will contact the winner to arrange
                                                                                                    collection of his prize.
                                                                                                               1                     2           3          4            5
                                                                                                                G A         L    E S                 C R A C K
                                                                                                                   L        E            H           A          R            I
                                                                                                               6                                            7
                                                                                                                   E N G L               I   S H                E E          L
                                                                                                                   N                     R           E          T            I
                                                                                                               8       9                         10                 11
                                                                                                                   C A B         L       E Y R H E U M
                                                                                                               12                                                   13
                                                                                                                O N E                        E                  R S A
                                                                                                               14          15        16          17
                                                                                                                   A N D E S W C R E A N
                               ...and let’s start now!                                                          G           I            P           L                       J
                                                                                                               18                    19
                               Aisling Kennedy’s challenge to hillwalkers and climbers                             H E N                 A M E R                I    C A
                               aligns really well with Brendan Roche’s ‘One from the Hills’
                               proposal that, when we are on the hills, we should all bring                        A       G             T           A       O               R
                                                                                                               20                                21
                               home just one item of litter for recycling – see Viewpoint,                         N O O K S M R A D                                 I   O
                               opposite page.
                                  Mountaineering Ireland has decided to promote the
                               One from the Hills initiative. Start now by carrying a small
                               bag with you on your next outing, to take home one item,
                               such as a drinks can or that wet chocolate bar wrapper
                               that we all try to ignore.
                                  Always keep safe – put your hand into the bag and use
                               that to pick up the litter, thus avoiding direct contact with
                               the item.
                                  If you come across bags of rubbish or other illegal
Photograph: Charlie Perkins

                               dumping, report it to the local council, or the
                               Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), 1850 365 121
                               (Republic of Ireland), or the Environmental Crime Unit
                               (Northern Ireland), 028 9056 9453. You can also download
                               the EPA’s ‘See it? Say it!’ app and use that to report
                               dumping, littering or other pollution.                                       Icebreaker Men’s 200 Oasis
                                                                                                              Long Sleeve Crewe Top
                                                                                                       plus Men’s Icebreaker Oasis Leggings
                              Spring 2021                                                                                                                Irish Mountain Log      15
NEWSL0G

                                                                                              National walking trails: the beginning
                                                                                              A walk in the English Peak District in 1964 inspired the creation of Ireland’s first waymarked way
                                                                                              By Seán Quinn, The Irish
                                                                                              Ramblers’ Club

                                                                                              In 1964, shortly after the
                                                                                              Irish Ramblers’ Club was
                                                                                              established, Angela Murphy,
                                                                                              the club’s Vice-President, and I
                                                                                              went walking in the English
                                                                                              Peak District with some British
                                                                                              ramblers. We were there at the
                                                                                              invitation of Tom Stephenson,
                                                                                              the then Secretary of the
                                                                                              Ramblers’ Association (now
                                                                                              The Ramblers) in Britain, who
                                                                                              was exploring the possibility of
                                                                                              establishing a long-distance
                                                                                              walking trail along the
                                                                                              backbone of England.
                                                                                                 Inspired by the great US
                                                                                              trails, this had first been             Members of the Irish Ramblers’ Club set off to explore the proposed Wicklow Way in 1965
                                                                                              mooted in 1935. It would
                                                                                              become the now famous                  to address a large outdoor             members, JB Malone, the Irish          the Republic, totalling over
                                                                                              Pennine Way, running 256               rally of British ramblers. I           Ramblers’ Club decided to              4,000 kilometres (2,500 miles)
                                                                                              miles from the Peak District to        talked about the need for              explore developing a long-             in length – see irishtrails.ie.
                                                                                              the Scottish border.                   walking trails in these islands        distance way, focusing primarily       These include many popular
                                                                                                 It was officially opened in          and the benefits and joys of            on County Wicklow, our main            looped walks, such as the
                                                                                              1965, after thirty years’ work,        our shared recreational                rambling area. The first section        Tramline Loop on Howth Head,
                                                                                              the first such walking trail in         activity.                              was established in 1980 and the        Co Dublin. More waymarked
                                                                                              these islands. It was a great            At that time, access to our          project was successfully               trails are being developed
                                                                                              honour for our infant club to be       countryside in Ireland was             completed in 1982, resulting in        around the country all the time,
                                                                                              involved in this historic event        becoming a problem for                 the establishment of the now           as community groups
Photographs: Sean Quinn Collection (old newspaper images), Patrick O’Sullivan (Marlay Park)

                                                                                              and that I had the opportunity         walkers here. With one of our          very popular and much                  recognise the many benefits
                                                                                                                                                                            appreciated Wicklow Way, the           that walking brings to rural and
                                                                                                                                                                            first such waymarked trail in           urban communities, including
                                                                                                                                                                            Ireland. There are now forty-four      the health benefits and the
                                                                                                                                                                            national waymarked trails in           agri-tourism possibilities ■

                                                                                                                                                                                                 ➤ Seán Quinn is the Founding President of
                                                                                                                                                                                                 the Irish Ramblers’ Club. He is a member of
                                                                                                                                                                                                 Mountaineering Ireland and An Taisce, a life
                                                                                                                                                                                                 member of An Óige, and a founder member of
                                                                                                                                                                                                 Na Coisithe, the family walking group. He was
                                                                                                                                                                                                 the government’s chief environmental adviser
                                                                                                                                                                                                 for many years

                                                                                              Tom Stephenson, father of the Pennine Way and then secretary of the
                                                                                              Ramblers’ Association in Britain, sets off on a walk with Seán Quinn of the
                                                                                              Irish Ramblers’ Club, and others, in 1964 to explore the proposed Way,
                                                                                              which opened in 1965. The notice reads: “NO ROAD: Any Person found             Start of the Wicklow Way in Marlay Park, Rathfarnham, Co Dublin
                                                                                              trespassing upon the Moor or taking dogs thereon will be Prosecuted.”
                                                                                              16    Irish Mountain Log                                                                                                                  Spring 2021
Winter success on K2
                                                               •• Nepalese team summits on last 8,000m peak to be climbed in winter
                                                                  Noel Hanna reaches over 7,300m on K2 in winter before winds force retreat

                                                               By Patrick O’Sullivan

                                                               K2, the ‘Savage Mountain,’ an 8,611m
                                                               peak in the Karakoram on the
                                                               Pakistan/China border, has finally been
                                                               climbed in winter. The first winter ascent
                                                               of the world’s second highest mountain
                                                               was made on January 16th, 2021, at about
                                                               5.00pm local time, by a group of ten
                                                               climbers from Nepal, who walked the
                                                               last 10m to the summit together, arm in
                                                               arm, singing the Nepali national anthem!
                                                                  This is the first time that a first winter
                                                               ascent of an 8,000m peak has been
                                                               made by an all-Nepalese team, although
                                                               many of the winter first ascents by
                                                               people from other countries have been
                                                               supported by Sherpas and other
                                                               Nepalese porters and climbers. It was
                                                               seen as a joyous and proud achievement
                                                               for Nepalese people in Nepal and around
                                                               the world.

                                                                               * * * * * *
                                                                 K2 is recognised as one of the most
                                                               technically difficult of the fourteen              K2, the Savage Mountain, in summer

                                                                                                                                 8,000m peaks to climb,              Four separate teams established
                                                                                                                                 winter or summer. Its            themselves in K2 Base Camp (4,960m)
                                                                                                                                 location is more northerly       in mid-December 2020, aiming to
                                                                                                                                 than the other mountains         acclimatise, establish camps and
                                                                                                                                 in this élite club, which        attempt to summit via the Abruzzi Spur
                                                                                                                                 results in more extreme          in the official winter climbing period, if a
                                                                                                                                 weather on the mountain,         suitable weather window occurred.
                                                                                                                                 with lower temperatures
                                                                                                                                                                     Advance Base Camp (5,200m) was
                                                                                                                                 and stronger winds. It was
                                                                                                                                                                  then established up the Godwin Austen
Photographs: Svy123 (K2), Noel Hanna Collection (Noel Hanna)

                                                                                                                                 first climbed by two
                                                                                                                                                                  Glacier, at the foot of the Abruzzi Spur.
                                                                                                                                 members of an Italian
                                                                                                                                                                  In the following month, Camp 1
                                                                                                                                 expedition, Achille
                                                                                                                                 Compagnoni and Lino              (6,100m), Camp 2 (6,700m), Camp 3
                                                                                                                                 Lacedelli, on July 31st, 1954,   (7,300m) and Camp 4 (7,600m) were
                                                                                                                                 via the Abruzzi Spur, still      set up and stocked. Camp 4 is usually
                                                                                                                                 the most popular route.          located on top of the Shoulder below
                                                                                                                                    By 2018, of the 367           the Bottleneck and has been seen as
                                                                                                                                 people who had summited          essential for successful summit bids.
                                                                                                                                 on K2 in the summer                 The four teams attempting the winter
                                                                                                                                 season, 91, or almost one in     ascent were:
                                                                                                                                 four, had died on the
                                                                                                                                 descent, sadly including Ger
                                                                                                                                 McDonnell, the County
                                                                                                                                                                  •    Mingma Gyalje Sherpa’s team of
                                                                                                                                                                  three Sherpas. ‘Mingma G’ has already
                                                                                                                                 Limerick man who made            climbed K2 twice in summer and has
                                                                                                                                 the first Irish ascent of K2 in   previously tried unsuccessfully to climb
                                                                                                                                 August 2008.                     it in winter.                            ➤
                                                               Noel Hanna on the Godwin-Austen Glacier with K2 in the distance

                                                               Spring 2021                                                                                                        Irish Mountain Log     17
NEWSL0G

                                                                                                     •   Nirmal Purja’s team, comprising
                                                                                                     ‘Nims’ or ‘Nims Dai,’ who is a Magar,
                                                                                                     with six Sherpas in support. Nims holds
                                                                                                     the record for the fastest ascent of the
                                                                                                     fourteen 8,000m peaks, which he
                                                                                                     climbed in six months and six days in
                                                                                                     2019.

                                                                                                     •  Icelander John Snorri Sigurjonsson
                                                                                                     with Pakistani Muhammad Ali Sadpara
                                                                                                     and his son, Sajid Sadpara, a team of
                                                                                                     experienced independent climbers, who
                                                                                                     were joined by Chilean mountaineer, Juan
                                                                                                     Pablo Mohr Prieto.

                                                                                                     •  The Seven Summit Treks forty-nine-
                                                                                                     person commercial team, comprising
                                                                                                     twenty-two clients with various
                                                                                                     experience on 8,000m mountains and
                                                                                                     twenty-seven climbing Sherpas, including
                                                                                                     Sona Sherpa. This team included Noel
                                                                                                     Hanna, the County Down man who made              Eight of the successful Sherpas after their climb of K2, pictured at Advance Base Camp.
                                                                                                     the second Irish ascent of K2 in August
                                                                                                                                                      Dawa Temba Sherpa, Dawa Tenjin                     team, said that the winds on K2 were
                                                                                                     2018, safely getting back down to base
                                                                                                                                                      Sherpa, and Kilu Pemba Sherpa.                     predicted to be 30 km per hour on the day
                                                                                                     camp the same day.
                                                                                                                                                        “History made for mankind. History               that the Sigurjonsson team went for the
                                                                                                                                                      made for Nepal!” Nims Purja said on                summit, and deteriorating the next day.
                                                                                                        A winter ascent of K2 was first
                                                                                                                                                      Instagram after the ascent. All of the             Noel felt that it was not safe to continue
                                                                                                     attempted in 1987 by a Polish expedition.
                                                                                                                                                      summiteers returned safely to base                 climbing that day, so he returned to base
                                                                                                     There have only been five winter
                                                                                                                                                      camp the next day.                                 camp. The Sigurjonsson team felt that it
                                                                                                     expeditions to K2 since then, until the                                                             was manageable and set off for the summit.
                                                                                                     attempts this year.                                              * * * * * *
                                                                                                                                                                                                            Noel had arrived at base camp on
                                                                                                        In the week prior to the successful               Sadly, there were five deaths on K2 this        December 29th, 2020 and spent forty days
                                                                                                     climb, Camp 2 was apparently destroyed             winter. A Catalan climber, Sergi Mingote,        there or in the higher camps. The
                                                                                                     by high winds and had to be restocked              fell to his death while descending from          temperature at base camp fell to -20°C,
Photographs: Nimsdal Purja Collection (successful Sherpas), Noel Hanna Collection (enjoying a nip)

                                                                                                     before the summit bid could be made. As            Camp 1 to Advance Base Camp on the               resulting in ice forming in the tents.
                                                                                                     far as I can establish, the successful             day of the successful summit bid. A
                                                                                                     climbers went up to Camp 3 in the                                                                                    * * * * * *
                                                                                                                                                        Bulgarian mountaineer, Atanas Skatov,
                                                                                                     preceding days and then left from there            also fell to his death later, while                The Sherpas who summited K2 on
                                                                                                     on their summit bid. They put in fixed              descending the mountain in February.             January 16th were already acclimatised
                                                                                                     ropes from there up to the summit cone,              After the successful ascent in January,        from other climbs before they went to K2.
                                                                                                     in what was possibly a sixteen-hour climb.         the other mountaineers waited in base            On their summit day, the winds were 5-
                                                                                                     They reached the summit at about                   camp to see if there would be another            10km/hr but rose to 10-15km/hr when they
                                                                                                     5.00pm local time on January 16th, 2021.           weather window. The Sigurjonsson team            were reaching the summit. Even at those
                                                                                                        Along with Mingma G, Nims and Sona              decided to try for the summit in a short         wind speeds, they all had some degree of
                                                                                                     Sherpa, the other summiteers were                  weather window in early February. Sajid          frost-nip or frostbite due to the windchill.
                                                                                                     Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi                  Sadpara turned around at the bottom of           Nims Purja was the only one who climbed
                                                                                                     Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Pem Chiri Sherpa,           the Bottleneck when his oxygen                   without supplemental oxygen, putting
                                                                                                                                                                         regulator malfunctioned.        himself at greater risk of cold injury.
                                                                                                                                                                         The other three –                 They climbed up to Camp 3 and then left
                                                                                                                                                                         Sigurjonsson, Ali Sadpara       there at 1.00-2.00am the next day,
                                                                                                                                                                         and Prieto – continued          reaching the summit just before 5.00pm
                                                                                                                                                                         climbing up the Bottleneck      on January 16th, a 16 to 17-hour day. Happily,
                                                                                                                                                                         and were not seen again,        they all got back down safely to base camp
                                                                                                                                                                         despite various helicopter      the following day.
                                                                                                                                                                         searches.                         After the Nepalese ascent, Noel’s Seven
                                                                                                                                                                            At a webinar organised       Summit Treks team rested at base camp,
                                                                                                                                                                         by the Europe Nepal             waiting for another weather window. On
                                                                                                                                                                         Chamber of Commerce for         February 5th, winds were forecast to be
                                                                                                                                                                         Tourism (www.encct.eu) at       10km/hr till 8.00am, and then 15km/hr till
                                                                                                                                                                         the end of February, Noel       4.00pm. Noel said that you would need to
                                                                                                                                                                         Hanna, who was part of          be fast to avail of a one-day weather
                                                                                                     Enjoying a nip at K2 Base Camp (Noel Hanna is in the middle)        the Seven Summit Treks          window.

                                                                                                     18    Irish Mountain Log                                                                                                             Spring 2021
The team went to
                                                                          Camp 1 and then to
                                                                          Camp 2. Noel felt it
                                                                                                                                                                        Hill Fever
                                                                          was taking longer
                                                                          than it should have                                                                           When winter days are over
                                                                          to climb between                                                                              And dawns the sun of May,
                                                                          the camps each day.                                                                           I love to take a rucksack
                                                                          In Camp 2, there was                                                                          And westwards make my way.
                                                                          a problem with the
                                                                          gas, and the stove                                                                            To leave behind the city,
                                                                          wouldn’t light. It was
                                                                                                                                                                        The hustle and the work,
                                                                          very cold there that
                                                                                                                                                                        To smell again the heather
                                                                          night, at -30 to -
                                                                          40°C.                                                                                         On Maamtrasna and Maamturk
                                                                            They went on to
                                                                          Camp 3 the next                                                                               To see again each furze clad hill,
                                                                          day, but only arrived Climbing fixed ropes between Camp 2 and Camp 3                           To hear the honey bee,
                                                                          at 5.00-6.00pm,                                                                               To breathe the clear and salty air
                                                                          when they should have arrived at 1.00-       after the son left them at the Bottleneck; it    On Croagh Patrick and Mweelrea.
                                                                          2.00pm. The forecast had changed by          is not clear what happened to them.
                                                                          then and the winds were forecast to be          Noel waited at base camp to see if there
                                                                                                                       was anything he could do to assist in the        To hear again Atlantic waves,
                                                                          20km/hr from midnight to 8.00am, and
                                                                          then 30km/hr from 8.00am. Noel felt          search for the Sigurjonsson team. A              Walk in the woods so green,
                                                                          this was too dangerous. However, the         Pakistani army helicopter attempted to           And hear the cuckoo calling,
                                                                          Sigurjonsson team decided they would         search for the three climbers, but didn’t find    O’er Ben Gower, Ben Ban, Ben Breen.
                                                                          still try for the summit, despite the        anything. With the weather conditions
                                                                          forecast.                                    deteriorating, the search was abandoned          Then turn my face to Kerry
                                                                            Noel’s oxygen regulator wasn’t working     and Noel trekked out to Skardu. He had           From care and sorrow free
                                                                          properly the next day, so he went back       been above 7,300m on K2 in winter, but felt
                                                                                                                                                                        To stroll where Massatiompan
                                                                          down and was back in base camp the           that it would have been foolish to try to go
                                                                                                                       higher in the winds that were forecast at        Slopes down to the sea.
                                                                          following day, February 6th. The
                                                                          Sigurjonsson team were not seen again        that time on the Savage Mountain ■
                                                                                                                                                                        Or climb to Brandon’s lofty peak
                                                                                                                                                                        And watch the young lambs play;

                                                                          Irish death on Mount Kenya                                                                    Or walk among the bluebells
                                                                                                                                                                        On the shores of Brandon Bay.

                                                                          By Patrick O’Sullivan
                                                                                                                                                                        To wander down a Sligo lane
                                                                                                                                                                        Where hawthorn blossoms bloom
                                                                          A forty-year-old Irishman
                                                                          died from altitude sickness                                                                   Or stand again upon that hill,
                                                                                                                                                                        Where Maeve lies in her tomb
Photograph: Noel Hanna (climbing fixed ropes), Franco Pecchio (Mt Kenya)

                                                                          on Mount Kenya (5,199m) at
                                                                          the end of January 2021.
                                                                          Dubliner Piers White, an                                                                      And watch the evening sun go down
                                                                          outdoor enthusiast, was                                                                       As the day draws to a close
                                                                          climbing Point Lenana
                                                                                                                                                                        Or stroll along the riverbank
                                                                          (4,985m) on Mount Kenya,
                                                                                                                                                                        Amongst the violets and primrose.
                                                                          the second highest
                                                                                                           Mount Kenya
                                                                          mountain in Africa.
                                                                             Piers had entered the        problems during the night      had been a marathon            To roam the hills of Donegal
                                                                          Mount Kenya National Park       and was evacuated in the       runner. In 2011, he started    With the wild deer and woodcock,
                                                                          through the Naro Moru Gate      morning by a mountain          the annual fundraising Run     And hear the sweet song of the lark
                                                                          three days before he            rescue team to Mackinder’s     in the Dark in Dublin, an      High up o’er Altan Lough.
                                                                          became ill. The park is a       Camp. Piers was airlifted      event which is now held in
                                                                          World Heritage Site. He was     from there in a critical       more than fifty cities
                                                                          overnighting in the Austrian                                                                  But Oh, that God would grant me
                                                                                                          condition to Nanyuki           around the world. He was
                                                                          Hut (4,790m) prior to                                                                         When sweet May dawns again,
                                                                                                          Cottage Hospital. Sadly, he    also instrumental in setting
                                                                          making his summit bid. The      was pronounced dead on         up the Mark Pollock Trust.     To rest awhile on Errigal
                                                                          hut is near the Lewis Glacier   arrival at the hospital.          Mountaineering Ireland      Or in the Poisoned Glen.
                                                                          on Point Lenana.                  Piers White was a teacher,   offers its sincere
                                                                             Kenya Wildlife Service       a charity worker and an        condolences to Piers’ family   Peadar O’Riordan
                                                                          reported that Piers             entrepreneur. He had a         and friends on their tragic
                                                                          developed breathing             broad interest in sport and    loss ■
                                                                          Spring 2021                                                                                               Irish Mountain Log       19
MOUNTAIN RESCUE

                              David Sheridan overlooking his lands beside Lough MacNean in County Fermanagh

                              SHEEP, SUCKLERS AND SAVING LIVES
                              One farmer’s view of volunteering with a mountain rescue team
                              Rodney Magowan reports

                              D
                                                 avid Sheridan farms          country folk to consider applying.
                                                 across several holdings        “The North West Mountain Rescue
                                                 around Letterbreen and       Team is a voluntary body covering all of
                                                 Florence Court in            Northern Ireland other than the Mournes,        “Remember, the team’s aim is to find
                                                 County Fermanagh,            from bases in Fermanagh, Magherafelt          those lost in often bleak landscapes and,
                                                 with some further            and Ballymena. The Mournes have their         where necessary, stabilise their condition.
                                                 acreage just across the      own mountain rescue team.                     Then, if need be, they are packaged on a
                              border. In fact, one of his fences is the         “You do not have to be some sort of         specialist stretcher and carried to a place
                              border!                                         super-fit Bear Grylls or latter-day Mary       of safety for onward transport to hospital.
                                Lowland sheep and suckler cows are            Peters. Just being farmer fit or even vet fit     “Call-outs are mainly local, but, in major
                              the family’s main enterprises, but David        would be an advantage,” David quipped.        incidents, our section has been deployed
                              has a third passion – helping save lives as       But how does he cope if there is a call-    to back up other teams as far afield as
                              a member of the North West Mountain             out when he is busy in the lambing shed       Mayo, the Mournes and Cave Hill. Taking
                              Rescue Team.                                    or a cow is calving? Simply by not being      part in actual rescues and potentially
                                “Back in 2013, the local section of the       on call at very busy times of the year.       saving a life gives me a great buzz, and the
                              North West Mountain Rescue Team held              “Though, make no mistake, being in the      whole experience of working in a team is
                              an open day at their base beside one of         team is a serious commitment, with            great crack.”
                              our farms,” David recalls. “Several             training two evenings a month at the            At home, David farms with the support
                              neighbours and friends were already             local section base beside us. Then, there     of his father, Robert, and his son, Lee,
                              members, so I called in and was mightily        are province-wide courses and exercises       across several holdings, miles apart. It is a
Photographs: Rodney Magowan

                              impressed. One member, the late Maud            most months, often with other                 contrast to being in the mountain rescue
                              Cunningham BEM, encouraged me to join           organisations such as the coast guards,       team, extracting casualties, often in
                              that day, saying that I knew a lot of the       police, RNLI, fire brigade and ambulance       horrendous weather conditions.
                              countryside already, was farmer fit,             service.                                        Early innovators in many farming
                              practical and reliable.                           “Some folks even get to higher level        techniques, David and his family were
                                “So, with all that praise, joining seemed     courses across the water or in the            among the first in Northern Ireland to use
                              a great idea – and it was! Eight years later,   Republic. Indeed, we all aim to get Rec3      expanded metal flooring in sheep sheds,
                              the North West Mountain Rescue Team             and Rec4, Rescue and Emergency Care           and sponging to tighten up lambing. The
                              are again recruiting and I would urge           and First Aid qualifications.                  ewes they have are Cheviot Suffolk
                              20    Irish Mountain Log                                                                                                    Spring 2021
You can also read