Return of the Seiko Speedtimer - BRITAIN'S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH TITLE - WatchPro
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BRITAIN’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH TITLE
WATCHPRO
2021 AWARDS
ALL THE WINNERS
REVEALED FROM
THE WATCH
INDUSTRY'S
BIGGEST NIGHT
OF THE YEAR
Return of
the Seiko
DECEMBER 2021 / ISSUE 132
Speedtimer
Modern Prospex chronographs
watchpro.com
inspired by historic sports timers
GRADE 5 WATER RESISTANT TO 600M
TITANIUM CASE (2,000 FT)
CERTIFIED SWISS REVOLUTIONARY
CHRONOMETER (COSC) MICRO GAS LIGHTS
AUTOMATIC HELIUM SHOCK RESISTANT TO
RELEASE VALVE 7,500 GS
DARK WATER AND MOUNTING PRESSURE,
BE PREPARED. EXPLOR ATION IS COMING.
With one turn of its corrosion-resistant, chromed ceramic bezel in ocean blue,
the Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU descends to uncharted depths. While incomparable
luminosity and grade 5 titanium guide discovery, an automatic helium release valve in
the crown secures the fearless ascent.
ballwatch.ch
BALL Watch UK Ltd. Tel. 0800 098 89 98
uk@ballwatch.ch
COMMENT
Look out for icebergs
W
PROMEDIA DIGITAL LTD
ATCHPRO is a broad church with opinions welcome
16-25 Bastwick Street, London, EC1V 3PS, UK
from anybody with a desire to see the global watch Tel: +44 (0)20 3176 4228
industry grow and prosper. I do not agree with every Fax: +44 (0)20 3176 4231
conclusion from analysts, owners, executives and
journalists, but I will always learn something from their sincerely held WATCHPRO TEAM
views. As often as not, they turn out to be right and my body of knowledge Co-Founder & Editor Rob Corder,
rob.corder@itp.com
inches forward.
Tel: +44 (0)20 3176 4227
An article in this month’s edition by Robin Swithinbank is a good example. Co-Founder & Publisher
Mr Swithinbank has a strong claim to be one of the most respected authors in the watch world right Daniel Malins, daniel.malins@itppromedia.com
Tel: +44 (0)20 3176 4225
now with bylines in GQ, Hodinkee, New York Times, Vanity Fair and many more.
Associate Publisher
He was in Geneva for the autumn auctions and watched new world record prices set at the major sales,. Alex Douglas, alex.douglas@itppromedia.com
Tel: +44 (0)20 3176 4235
But, rather than the usual suspects of Patek Philippe grand complications or vintage Rolex watches
Head of WatchPro Live
with peerless provenance setting salerooms alight, it was the new breed of living and breathing artisan
Lucy Cheesewright
watchmakers that made headlines. lucy.cheesewright@itppromedia.com
Philippe Dufour and Francois Journe (among others) are now rightly — and finally — getting the Editorial Director Andrew Seymour
recognition they deserve as artistic geniuses that use microengineering and exquisite finishing to bring andrew.seymour@itppromedia.com
creations to life in a form that can be worn on the wrist. At the main Phillips auction, they took all three
DIGITAL
podium places for the highest prices, knocking the mighty Patek Philippe into the also ran spots.
Database Management
This, Mr Swithinbank suggests, could be a tipping point for the Swiss watch industry, which is Vinod Alath, vinod.alath@itp.com
compensating for dwindling numbers of watches sold by producing higher-end pieces that command
PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION
much higher prices.
Group Production & Distribution Director
Low volumes and extremely high prices suit the likes of Mr Dufour and Mr Journe very nicely. Instead Kyle Smith, kyle.smith@itp.com
of producing 100 or even 1,000 watches per year and selling them at five-figure prices, why not make Production & Systems Manager
the same volume but add an extra zero or even two to the price tag? Danny Corder, danny.corder@itppromedia.com
Outsourcing Manager
The problem for the mainstream Swiss brands, such as Breguet, Blancpain, IWC or Jaeger-LeCoultre, is Aamar Shawwa, aamar.shawwa@itp.com
that they are struggling to pull off the same trick as the independents. Pumping out limited editions to
create false scarcity and rarity is supporting higher prices, but watch collectors are cynical. CIRCULATION
SUBSCRIPTION CUSTOMER SERVICE
Mr Swithinbank concludes Geneva is rearranging deckchairs on the Titanic rather than watching for
+44 (0)20 3176 4228
icebergs, and this is where I disagree. Group brands have been strengthened by supply constraints.
subscriptions@itppromedia.com
Heavy discounting on the grey market has dried up as a result of shortages, creating a rock solid
platform from which LVMH, Swatch and Richemont group brands can and should build. I think this will
Web
lead to global exports finally breaking through the CHF 20 billion glass ceiling and heading towards CHF
www.watchpro.com
30 billion inside five years. www.itppromedia.com
Who is right? Only time will tell.
Rob Corder The publishers regret that they cannot accept liabil-
ity for error or omissions in this publication, however
caused. The opinions and views contained in this publi-
CO-FOUNDER & EDITOR, WATCHPRO cation are not necessarily those of the publishers. Read-
ers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting
on information contained in this publication, which is
provided for general use and may not be appropriate for
the readers’ particular circumstances.
The ownership of trademarks is acknowledged. No part
of this publication or any part of the contents thereof
may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or
transmitted in any form without the permission of the
publishers in writing. An exception is hereby granted for
extracts used for the purpose of fair review.
COVER PROMOTION COURTESY OF SEIKO Published by and copyright 2021
Promedia Digital Ltd, incorporated and
With steel sports watches the hottest category in the market right now, Seiko has registered in the United Kingdom under
added solar-powered and automatic chronographs to its Prospex family that draw on company number 10982417.
the watchmaker’s history of precision timekeepers made for major sporting events.
4 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2021 / watchpro.com
ONE SERIOUS
PIECE OF KIT
BE EQUIPPED FOR ANYTHING, ANYWHERE. MARATHON. THE LUXURY TOOL WATCH
GSAR GOVERNMENT SEARCH & RESCUE, WW19400 DIVE, 30ATM
SWISS MADE, AUTOMATIC - 26 JEWEL TRITIUM GAS MARKERS, 26MCI
UK DEALER INQUIRIES | JAMES FAULKNER | +44 74 7013 6044 | UKSALES@MARATHONWATCH.COM
FRONT / NEWS REVIEW
NEWS REVIEW 6
WATCHPRO AWARDS 14
WATCHPRO SALON HIGHLIGHTS 20
THIS MONTH IN THE WATCH INDUSTRY... BUSINESS BRIEFING - BREITLING 34
WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND BUYS
PRESTIGIOUS AMERICAN STORES
W
atches of Seattle, so the sale of a single
Switzerland has store looks more tactical for the
acquired one group as it emerges from the
of America’s challenges of the pandemic,
most historic and respected which hit the West Coast harder
jewellers, Betteridge Jewelers, than many parts of the United
headquartered in Greenwich, States.
an affluent town north of Watches of Switzerland says
New York City in Connecticut that each acquisition offers
where masters of the universe exceptional opportunities for
financiers and old money expanded growth, along with a
industrialist families reside valuable influx of existing watch
in clean, calm and palatial clients.
splendor. “Since the acquisition of
Owner Terry Betteridge is one Mayors in 2017, followed quickly
of the most respected figures by the opening of Watches of
in the American jewellery and The business also A neighbouring jeweller to Switzerland SoHo, The Group
watch business; a man with bought Timeless Luxury, a Betteridge told WATCHPRO in has shown its acute command
presidents of Patek Philippe, single showroom business the week of the acquisition that of the US market and deep
Rolex and others on speed dial near Houston, Texas, and there were rumours Betteridge understanding of its discerning
along with the CEOs of most a Mall of America boutique was for sale a couple of years’ and diverse consumers,” says
Fortune 500 companies. in Minneapolis owned by ago, but thought the boom in David Hurley, EVP of The
The UK equivalent of Seattle-based Ben Bridge (the spending in Greenwich — when Watches of Switzerland Group
Betteridge would be a business equivalent of a family-owned Manhattanites decamped from USA.
like Pragnell, which offers multiple in this country like the city and started a record “As leaders in the industry, we
incredible high value jewellery Beaverbrooks). spending spree during the understand the responsibility
with the most prestigious Shares jumped by 15% for pandemic — had made a deal that comes with that role and
timepieces across four stores. Watches of Switzerland Group less likely. look forward to expanding our
Watches of Switzerland on the London Stock Exchange Timeless Luxury Watches is a team in North America
acquired the Greenwich as the news broke, valuing the much younger business created while investing in the growth
flagship of Betteridge, plus two business at £3 billion. just a decade ago by millennial of each of these new markets
boutiques in the affluent Rocky By the end of November, that owners Dan Broadfoot and his and communities,” he adds.
Mountains ski resorts of Aspen value had risen to £3.3 billion. wife Anna. Ben Bridge and Timeless
and Vail. Every deal is eye catching, When WATCHPRO Luxury locations are being
The value of the acquisition but buying Betteridge, a interviewed Mr Broadfoot converted to Watches of
was not disclosed. family owned jeweler that can in 2019, the business was in Switzerland boutiques, while
That was not the end of trace its lineage back to the expansion mode after moving the Betteridge locations in
the Watches of Switzerland 18th century in Birmingham, into a new and much larger Greenwich, Vail and Aspen will
spending spree, announced England, is arguably one of the store in Plano outside Houston. continue to operate under the
alongside record Q2 financial most surprising deals in recent Ben Bridge is a huge current name for the immediate
results. history. operation headquartered in future.
6 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2021 / watchpro.com
AT E L I E R D ’ H O R LO G E R I E F R A N Ç A I S E
E X C E P T I O N & C R E AT I V I T Y
Discover the Antares collection with its iconic interchangeable straps,
crafted with precision in France at our workshops in Charquemont.
Available at exclusive retailers around the country
WatchPro_205x275mm_DIVER_ANT_DIAMANTS.indd 1 19/10/2021 09:19
FRONT / NEWS REVIEW
HYT resuscitated after going down the tubes
When HYT went bust in
February this year, it was unclear
whether mismanagement or
the pandemic were ultimately to
blame.
HYT did not have a full
time CEO for four years until
Michel Nieto, who was running
the company from his chief
operating officer vantage point,
took on the role in December
last year. By then, the dye was
cast and the business fell into
administration within three
months.
Today, HYT is up and running
again under new owners KTS
(Kairos Technology Switzerland worked at both Tudor and positioned as a “trailblazer” for pleasure that mixes maestria
SA). Panerai. fine watchmaking in the new with mechanical virtuosity,
KTS has issued a statement “I am delighted to take over millennium. We have already fluid displays and avant-garde
saying it has acquired all the the general management of set to work to perpetuate this designs,” Mr Cerrato says in his
assets of HYT and appointed this magnificent brand. HYT has promise of innovation, to re- first statement as HYT’s new
David Cerrato as CEO. Mr succeeded in bringing a new enchant watch enthusiasts and CEO.
Cerrato was CEO of Montblanc’s dimension to the watch industry collectors, but also to push back The business has been up and
watches division for five years thanks to its innovative and the existing technical limits, by running since September, and
until being replaced in January groundbreaking content. materialising a new pleasure says its first new watch will be
this year. He had previously “The brand is thus clearly of wearing a luxury watch. A unveiled in January.
Kari Voutilainen takes control at Urban Jürgensen
It’s the quiet ones you have to Baumberger, Derek Pratt, and
look out for. Kari Voutilainen. Fewer than
If there are more unassuming 1,000 wristwatches have been
executives in the watch industry produced by the brand to-date.
than Kari Voutilainen, I am yet to Plans are already underway
meet them. for a 250th anniversary
But Finland’s Mr Voutilainen celebration for the brand in
has turned into a corporate 2023 when it will relaunch with a
deal-maker by snapping completely new and expanded
up Urban Jürgensen for an collection of watches.
undisclosed sum. The master These watches will draw
watchmaker has been backed design inspiration from past
by a group of investors and will generations of Urban Jürgensen
take immediate control as chief in my career and to learn from Founded in Denmark in 1773 watches, while also featuring
executive. His daughter, Venla some of the great watchmakers by Jørgen Jørgensen, Urban new ideas from the aesthetics to
Voutilainen, is also joining the of the 20th century. Now it’s Jürgensen originally made a the mechanics of the watches.
company as head of after sales time to take everything I’ve name for itself producing pocket Remarkably, the business has
service. learned since then and to use watches. completely cleared the decks for
“I could not be more excited to it to reinvigorate the company. The company only these new watches in 2023 and
be leading Urban Jürgensen, a We plan – in full harmony with transitioned to making will no longer manufacture its
company that is very important the brand’s core DNA – to bring wrist watches in the last current models.
to me personally,” says Mr Urban Jürgensen to its rightful four decades, led by a It will, however, provide after
Voutilainen. “I was very lucky to place as one of the world’s most group of watchmakers and sales service for all Urban
work at Urban Jürgensen early respected watch brands.” connoisseurs, including Peter Jürgensen clients and watches.
8 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2021 / watchpro.com
WatchPro_GS_SBGA211_December2021.indd 1 08/06/2021 16:39
FRONT / NEWS REVIEW BRAUN AND PAUL SMITH TEAM UP FOR SECOND DROP OF TIMEPIECES Continuing in the tradition yellow second hand being of high calibre brand modified to the multicoloured collaborations, Paul Smith stripe that has become a and Braun have teamed up trademark feature of Paul Smith to create the second series design. of limited-edition clock and The addition of Paul Smiths watch project, set to launch unmistakable stripe and logo in November 2021. The adds playful detail to the three collaboration consists of two timeless designs that prioritise clocks and a watch. form, function, and clarity. The BC02 Travel Alarm All three models come Clock, the BC17 Wall Clock and packaged with bespoke Paul the BN0032 Classic Watch, a Smith x Braun packaging, the timepiece that reflects Braun’s clocks featuring illustrated core values of functionality, designs. quality, and aesthetics. The BC02WPS, BC017WPS The BC02 and BC17 are clocks and BN0032WHMHPSG derived from the iconic AB1 and watch will launch November ABW 41 clocks designed in the 2021 and will be available online late 80s. at paulsmith.com, braun-clocks. Each model is available with com and in selected Paul Smith a white face, with Braun’s iconic shops and stockists. G-SHOCK shifts to slimmer octagonal cases Octagonal bezels are part of key evolution from the family’s 2100 has green, grey, blue or red made of glass fibre reinforced G-SHOCK’s DNA and signature resin forefathers. There are two dials. Cases come in several IP resin is a slimmed down module style. The shape first appeared sizes of the new GM-2100, one a coatings in different hues. powering the analog digital in 1983 when the DW-5000 was substantial 49.3mm x 44.4mm x The slightly smaller GM-S2100 watch with features including five launched. The concept was 11.8mm, the other a more unisex range has an all-black model as time alarms, 48 city world timer updated for the AW-500 in 1989, case size for the GM-S2100 well as options with a green dial and a 1/100th second stopwatch. G-SHOCK’s first analogue model, range of 45.9mm x 40.4mm x and silver case or rose gold dial Casio is positioning the and most recently in 2019 for 11.0 mm. Each size comes in a with matching IP-coated case. slimmer octagonal case and the GA-2100, which takes the range of colours. The larger GM- Inside an inner protective case bezel of the 2100 as the primary original octagonal design and form for future watches. brings it into the modern era With all the strength of its with a new slim and compact predecessors, the GA-2100 is the style. perfect combination of the street The trimming of the 2019 culture codes that emerged in watch was made possible with the 80s and 90s and took hold G-SHOCK’s development of thin in the 2000s. modules and a Carbon Core Its sporty design is completely Guard structure that provides combined with the sober extreme toughness in the more elegance and a futuristic look petite frame of the watch. make it perfect for today’s digital This year the story has been natives who share daily on social extended again with the creation networks and love to show off of G-SHOCK’s GM-2100 — the with their new accessories, the M stands for metal, which is the brand believes. 10 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2021 / watchpro.com
NEWS REVIEW / FRONT
SEIKO DRAWS ON SPORTING HERITAGE FOR
LATEST PROSPEX SPEEDTIMER COLLECTION
Do not dismiss Seiko’s new The 8R46’s vertical clutch model sells for €3,000. gold and black — presented
Prospex Speedtimer line as just and column wheel ensure In addition to the automatics, in brushed and polished steel
another Daytona clone. This is precision and durability, while Seiko has released four versions 39mm cases and bracelets. The
a family with heritage dating the escapement is lightweight of a Prospex Speedtimer Solar recommended retail price in
back to the pre-quartz 1960s and strong, thanks to the use of Chronograph, which are just Europe is around €680.
when the Japanese watchmaker MEMs technology. as sporty and even more All six creations in the
was creating mechanical timing There is attention to detail precise given their use of a new Speedtimer series were
devices for major sports events born out of Seiko’s work as a quartz-regulated V192 Solar launched in November and
including a range of highly precision sports instrument Chronograph movement. are on sale at Seiko boutiques
accurate stopwatches. maker including a chronograph They come in four different and selected retail partners
Towards the end of the second hand that is gently dial colourways — white, navy, worldwide.
decade, in 1969, Seiko curved down towards the dial
introduced the Seiko Speedtimer so that the tip of the hand is as
with the Caliber 6139 as close as possible to the dial’s
the world’s first automatic markers and extends to the
chronograph with a column internal tachymeter bezel at the
wheel and vertical clutch, two very edge of the dial.
components that delivered This makes it easier to get
real improvements in the the most accurate reading of
measurement of elapsed time in elapsed time. It is also practical,
a wristwatch and are still used in with large concave pushers
high end chronographs. giving fingertip precision.
These 1969 watches are the There are two Seiko Prospex
inspiration for a new collection Speedtimer Mechanical
of Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Chronographs. The white dialled
Mechanical Chronographs, version (SRQ035) is a limited
which come in two designs. edition of 1,000 pieces. The
One design is inspired by other with a charcoal grey dial
a Seiko 1964 1/5th second (SRQ037) is not limited.
stopwatch. It uses a new Both use the same 42.5mm
movement, the calibre 8R46, steel case and are sold with
and its dial has two sub-dials a steel bracelet and a leather
to the left and right and a strap. The limited edition white
date window at the six o’clock SRQ035 model is retailing for
position. €3,200 while the dark grey
watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2021 / WATCHPRO 11WATCHPRO AWARDS 2021 WINNERS & FINALISTS
WATCHPRO AWARDS
ROARS BACK
AFTER SKIPPING LAST YEAR’S WATCHPRO AWARDS, THE CEREMONY RETURNED IN ALL ITS CELEBRATORY GLORY AT THE
BEGINNING OF NOVEMBER WITH LEADING EXECUTIVES FROM RETAILERS, BRANDS AND INDUSTRY SUPPLIERS GATHERING
IN THE VICTORIAN BALLROOM OF 8 NORTHUMBERLAND, LONDON, FOR A NIGHT OF EXCITEMENT, DRAMA AND — MOST
IMPORTANT OF ALL — CATCHING UP WITH OLD FRIENDS.
H
aving chosen not to run a virtual awards over zoom Throughout the crisis, leadership teams and entire company
last year, WATCHPRO Awards 2021 had a lot of ground workforces have been tested to new limits. They have passed
to cover in celebrating excellence from retailers and those tests with flying colours and will be all the stronger for having
brands over a two year period from summer 2019 battled though the pandemic.
to summer 2021. New stores have opened, others have been In this most exceptional of years, it gives us the greatest pleasure
dramatically refurbished. The entire industry has been rocked and honour to present the finalists and winners of the 2021
to its core by the pandemic, but adapted at incredible speed WATCHPRO Awards along with a breakdown of how the voting
and is now trading at record levels again. ended.
14 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2021 / watchpro.comTHIS WAS SUPPOSED TO BE AN ADVERT FOR A NICE WATCH, BUT IT’S ALREADY SOLD.
AUCTIONS THAT LAST LESS TIME THAN IT TAKES TO PRINT AN AD.
7 DAY AUCTIONS RUNNING 24/7
WATC H COLLECTIN G. COMWATCHPRO AWARDS 2021 WINNERS & FINALISTS
ECOMMERCE RETAILER OF THE YEAR MULTIPLE LUXURY WATCH RETAILER VOLUME WATCH RETAILER OF THE YEAR
Very Good
OF THE YEAR
Excellent
Sponsored by Mondaine Sponsored by Michel Herbelin Winner: H. Samuel
Key to voting Exceptional
Winner: Watchshop Winner: Watches of Switzerland Finalists: Amazon, Argos, F. Hinds,
Finalists: Jura Watches/CW Sellors, Finalists: Bucherer, Mappin & Webb, H. Samuel, John Lewis
Mr Porter, Watchfinder, Watchshop, Xupes Watches of Switzerland, Wempe
Amazon Amazon
Bucherer
Chrono24
Argos
Chronext
Mappin & Webb
Jura Watches / CW Sellors
F. Hinds
Mr Porter
Watches of Switzerland
Watchfinder H. Samuel
Watchshop
Wempe John Lewis
Xupes
0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% 120% 0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% 0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% 120%
BEST NEW STORE OF THE YEAR PRE-OWNED WATCH RETAILER
OF THE YEAR
Sponsored by Ingersoll
Winner: Bucherer Winner: Watchfinder
Finalists: Bucherer in Covent Garden, London; Luxe in Epping; Rolex by Prestons in Finalists: Blowers, Luxe Watches,
Leeds, Rolex by Watches of Switzerland in Glasgow, Watches of Switzerland in Broadgate Watchfinder, Watchmaster, Xupes
AP House on Bond Street, London
Breitling on Regent Street, London Chronext
Bremont, The Wing, Henley on Thames
Luxe Watches
Bucherer, Covent Garden, London
Luxe Watches, Epping Watchfinder
Rolex by Prestons, Leeds
Watchmaster
Rolex by Watches of Switzerland, Glasgow
Rox, Liverpool Xupes
Watches of Switzerland, Broadgate, City of London
0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% 120%
0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100%
16 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2021 / watchpro.comHamilton & Inches
Engagement Collection
NEILSON PRODUCT
PHOTOGRAPHY STUDIO
With over 20 years experience and multiple
awards we are a leading product photography
studio based in the UK.
Specialising in the production of marketing images for
fine jewellery, watches and luxury goods.
With a global client base, we shoot for brands,
retailers, designers and manufacturers
Bremont
in the industry. Watches
10 Newton Place Tel. +44 (0) 141 353 1383
Glasgow G3 7PR info@neilsonphotography.com neilsonphotography.comWATCHPRO AWARDS 2021 WINNERS & FINALISTS
BEST REFURBISHED STORE OF THE YEAR RETAIL LEADERS OF THE YEAR
Very Good
Excellent
Key to voting Exceptional
Sponsored by WOLF
Winner: Laings in Glasgow Winner: Brian Duffy & Craig Bolton, Watches of Switzerland
Finalists: Hamilton & Inches in Edinburgh, Laings in Finalists: Anna Blackburn and Mark Adelstone OBE, Beaverbrooks; Brian
Glasgow, Prestons in Wilmslow, Wakefields in Horsham, Duffy & Craig Bolton, Watches of Switzerland; Charlie Pragnell, Pragnell;
Watches of Switzerland in Knightsbridge Joe Walsh and Stuart McDowell, Laings; Nicholas and Michael Wainwright,
Boodles; Simon Walton; Berry’s
Hamilton & Inches, Edinburgh
Laings, Glasgow
Anna Blackburn and Mark Adelstone OBE,
Beaverbrooks
Prestons, Wilmslow in Cheshire
Brian Duffy and Craig Bolton,
Watches of Switzerland Group
Wakefields, Horsham in Surrey
Charlie Pragnell, Pragnell
Watches of Switzerland, Knightsbridge in London
0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% Joe Walsh and Stuart McDowell, Laings
Nicholas and Michael Wainwright, Boodles
Simon Walton, Berry's
INDEPENDENT LUXURY RETAILER OF THE YEAR 0% 5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35% 40%
LIFESTYLE WATCH BRAND OF THE YEAR
Sponsored by WOLF
Winner: Weir & Sons
Finalists: Berry’s, Boodles, Laings, Pragnell, Weir & Sons
Berry's
Boodles
David M Robinson
Laings 25% 23%
Lunn's Winner: Seiko 20.09%
20%
Pragnell Finalists: Braun, 16% 16.85%
Garmin, Mondaine, Seiko, 15%
Prestons 12%
Rox Victorinox 10% 8%
Weir & Sons 5% 4.06%
0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100%
0% Braun Garmin G-SHOCK Longines Others Tissot Seiko
18 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2021 / watchpro.comWATCHPRO AWARDS 2021 WINNERS & FINALISTS
INDEPENDENT WATCH BRAND OF THE YEAR BRITISH WATCH BUSINESS OF THE YEAR VOLUME WATCH BRAND OF THE YEAR
Winner: Junghans Sponsored by Redd Retail Sponsored by Luxe Watches
Finalists: Christopher Ward, DOXA, Winner: Bremont Winner: Citizen
Junghans, Maurice Lacroix, Michel Finalists: Bremont, Christopher Ward, Finalists: Emporio Armani, Citizen, Hugo
Herbelin, Oris Duckworth Prestex, Schofield, Robert Boss, Michael Kors, Olivia Burton, Seiko,
Loomes, Roger Smith Vivienne Westwood
19.80%
20% 19%
18% 8.18% 25%
40%
36% 25% 23%
35%
15%
30% 20%
17%
25%
10% 15% 14.12%
8% 20%
15.95%
5.68% 6.34% 15% 10%
5% 10.05% 12% 11%
5% 10% 9% 5.88% 5.29% 4.71%
5% 5%
6%
5%
0% 0% 0%
Bremont Christopher DOXA Junghans Maurice Michel NOMOS Oris Other Bremont Christopher Duckworth Fears Schofield Roger Emporio Citizen Hugo G-Shock Michael Olivia Seiko Vivienne
Ward Lacroix Herbelin Ward Prestex W Smith Armani Boss Kors Burton Westwood
EXECUTIVE LEADERSHIP TEAM OF THE YEAR LUXURY WATCH BRAND OF THE YEAR
Winner: Seiko and Grand Seiko Winner: Patek Philippe
Finalists: Citizen Watch UK, Movado Group, Seiko/Grand Seiko, Finalists: Grand Seiko, Gucci, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer,
Patek Philippe, Zeon, Rolex Vacheron Constantin
Breitling 25%
Cartier 20.90%
20% 19%
Citizen Watch UK
Movado Group
15%
Omega
10.34%
Seiko / Grand Seiko 10% 8.05% 8.36% 8.05%
5.75% 6.90% 6.90%
Patek Philippe 5.75%
TAG Heuer 5%
Zeon
0%
Rolex Audemars Breitling Cartier Grand Seiko IWC Omega Patek Philippe Rolex TAG Heuer Vacheron
Piguet Constantin
0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50%
watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2021 / WATCHPRO 19WATCHPRO SALON / INSPIRING INDEPENDENTS
INSPIRING INDEPENDENTS
AT WATCHPRO SALON
NOVEMBER SAW THE LAUNCH OF A BRAND NEW EVENT IN LONDON, WATCHPRO SALON, A SHOWCASE OF OUTSTANDING INDEPENDENT WATCHMAKING
FROM LOW VOLUME HAUTE ARTISANS LIKE VOUTILAINEN AND CZAPEK & CIE TO THE MORE WIDELY DISTRIBUTED PLAYERS INCLUDING GRAND SEIKO,
ORIS AND PARMIGIANI. WHAT THEY HAVE IN COMMON IS THE INDEPENDENT SPIRIT THAT COMES FROM PRIVATE OWNERSHIP AND THE CREATIVE FLAIR
THAT UNLEASHES. HIGHLIGHTING THE BEST OF WHAT WAS PRESENTED AT SALON, TIM BARBER PICKS OUT HIS FAVORITE GMTS, TECHNICAL TREASURES,
HOROLOGICAL HEAVYWEIGHTS AND HARDCORE DIVE WATCHES.
GMTS
Watches showing more than one time zone, ostensibly the
accoutrement of the long-haul traveller, have at least been
BALL WATCH
ROADMASTER MARINE GMT CERAMIC BEZEL
Ball’s indefatigable Roadmaster Marine GMT
useful during the pandemic for keeping track of colleagues or has the feel of something that’s easily smart
loved ones elsewhere around the globe. Actually that’s always enough for C-Suite jetsetters, but will be most
been a side bonus of the travel watch, but let’s face it – the at home roughing it in properly extreme
clue is in the name, and as jetting off becomes a possibility environments. This is a ‘true’ GMT, track-
once more, watches designed to bring utility and style to ing three time zones via a GMT hand
globetrotting have a renewed pull. Funny how the mere and rotating bezel, but adds functional-
presence of an additional 24-hour hand on a watch dial can ity (and distinctiveness) via quick-set
carry with it the promise of wanderlust and adventure, but pushers to move the GMT hand easily, rath-
that’s been the case since the first Rolex GMT Master touched er than the crown – Ball developed a module
down in 1954, and it’s the case with these travel-time picks too in-house to manage this. A flurry of new ver-
sions feature ceramic bezel inserts in a variety
of colour option, while brand’s signature tritium
GRAND SEIKO gas tubes ensure low-light visibility whether
you’re reading it in the gloom of a red-eye flight
MECHANICAL SEASONS: SPRING across the dateline, or ensconced an Arctic bivouac.
If you wanted a watch that really gets to the essence of Grand Seiko’s quiet
allure, look no further. Present and correct are the gleaming contrasts of
MICHEL HERBELIN
the brand’s fabled zaratsu case finishing, and CAP CAMARAT GMT
of intensively polished hands and applied
markers set against an enigmatically textured With its Cap Camarat collection, the family-
dial, in this case rendered in a verdant shade owned French firm Michel Herbelin – in the
of green. Inside, you’ve got the joys of Grand game since 1947 – offers some nuanced
Seiko’s refined high-frequency watchmak- options for those wanting 1970s sports-
ing, with the Hi-Beat calibre 9S86 (beating at luxe style at a a relatively affordable price
36,000 vph) – an engine that, as ever with point. The latest addition is this breezy
Grand Seiko, mixes workhorse capability with GMT, which includes both a second
ingenuity and finesse. It’s one of a quartet time zone indicator (set with the lower
of new GMT additions, each inspired by a of two crowns) and a city ring that can
different season: Spring and Summer are be manually adjusted for checking the
Hi-Beat automatics, while Winter and Autumn time right around the world. A watch for
are powered by Spring Drive movements. the global citizen for sure – but given its
Each of them offers a version of travel time vaguely nautical ambience and chic styling,
at its most cultured and elegant, as is Grand one with its heart firmly in the French Riviera
Seiko’s way. milieu from which it takes its name.
20 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2021 / watchpro.comINSPIRING INDEPENDENTS / WATCHPRO SALON
TECHNICAL
TREASURES
In the world of fine watchmaking, there are the discreet
masterpieces that reveal their technical glories only when
you turn them over; and there are those that just let it all hang
out. At their best, such pieces aren’t just about whizz bang
horological grandstanding (though they’re certainly about that
in part). They’re also about engaging directly with the analogue
‘technicity’ (as the Swiss call it) of watchmaking itself: following
the clues into the heart of the tiny machine, and marvelling at
human ingenuity. Here’s three watches from WatchPro Salon
that manage exactly that.
CZAPEK & CIE
ANTARCTIQUE RATTRAPANTE
Having entered the sports-luxe market with its likeable
Antarctique design last year, Czapek has pulled off a
stunning coup with this novel split-seconds chrono-
graph, which unusually places the rattrapante workings
dial-side. The high-tech feel fits the Antarctique template
rather well – it’s a measure of both the watch and the
brand’s achievement that a unique version for Only-
Watch hammered last week for CHF240,000, against a
high estimate of just CHF 90,000.
SPEAKE-MARIN
OPENWORKED TOURBILLON
Dominated by the twin circles of
the barrel and the micro-rotor,
Speake-Marin’s curious, off-centre
CYRUS ‘One & Two’ movement archi-
tecture has been developed
KLEPCYS DICE
into an adaptable platform for
Another chronograph produced within the technical hothouse of watchmaking with a highly
Chronode, Cyrus being a kind of shop window for founder Jean- technical, three-dimensional
Francois Mojon’s most creative ideas. The Dice (or “Double Inde- aesthetic. In this case with a
pendent Chronograph Evolution”) puts stopwatch mechanisms into flying tourbillon whirling at 1.30
one movement – a kind of functional upgrade on the split-seconds, and a power reserve at 7.30, it’s a
allowing you to time completely independent events at the same beguiling piece of modern watch-
time. That means two sets of hands for chrono minutes and seconds, making, full of depth and beautiful
with opposing colour-coded column wheels facing off at the top and finishes. Unusually it’s made in both
bottom of the dial, as mono-pushers for operating the two chrono- 38mm and 42mm versions.
graphs on either side of the case.
watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2021 / WATCHPRO 21WATCHPRO SALON / INSPIRING INDEPENDENTS
HOROLOGICAL
HEAVYWEIGHTS
At the highest level, fine watchmaking turns from a science into
pure art, demanding skills, dexterity and mental acuity that
remain dazzlingly out of reach for most of us. As, indeed, do the
watches themselves, made in tiny batches and often delivered
straight to collectors (once they’ve served their time on waiting
lists). WatchPro Salon, however, offered a rare opportunity to
see an array of these masterpieces up close.
VOUTILAINEN
SETSU-GETSU-KA
LAURENT FERRIER From the softly-spoken colossus of independent watch-
SQUARE MICRO-ROTOR RETRO
making comes his latest, wondrous collaboration with the
Few top-tier brands produce Unryuan studio of the celebrated Japanese lacquer artist
watches with such an innate sense Tatsuo Kitamura. With a vision of Mount Fuji on the dial, the
of pure, elegant style, in tandem decorative patchwork – months in the making – ¬spreads
with perfectly exquisite watch- across the movement bridges too. Bring a loupe to admire
making, as Laurent Ferrier. That’s not just the unique Japanese handcraft, but the untouchably
especially the case with the new perfect finishing that’s a hallmark of Voutilainen watches. If
Square Micro-Rotor Retro, which you had come to Salon, you would have met the great Keri
fuses the pleasing curvature of Voutilainen in person.
the Laurent Ferrier cushion case
with a crisply beautiful Art Deco
dial design. Turn it over, and you
have the 3D joys of the brand’s
famed micro-rotor movement: a
symphony of horological ingenuity
and hand-finishing technique.
PARMIGIANI
TONDA PF SPLIT SECONDS
CHRONOGRAPH
With its new Tonda PF collection,
Parmigiani has presented a more
GRAND SEIKO
KINTARO HATTORI 160TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED
modern and streamlined version of
EDITION
its esoteric ¬– and often overlooked
– fine watchmaking approach; and There’s the Grand Seiko of elegant modern pieces like the
at the pinnacle of the collection, GPHG-winning SLGH005; and then there’s the Grand Seiko
this Split Seconds Chronograph is of the Micro-Artists Studio – an elite team of artisan geniuses
a reminder of just what the brand building some of the most rarefied and beautiful watches in
is capable of at its most creatively the world, a number of which will be on show at WatchPro
energised. The grey dial is modishly Salon. My pick? This limpid beauty marking the 160th an-
understated; the high-frequency niversary of the birth of Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori, which
movement, with its rococo lat- combines majestically pure design, breathtaking finishing
ticework of rose gold bridges, is a and the wonders of Spring Drive Caliber 9R02 – one of the
GPHG-winning marvel. most striking haute horlogerie movements around.
22 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2021 / watchpro.comWATCHPRO SALON / INSPIRING INDEPENDENTS
HARDCORE DIVE
WATCHES
The past few years have seen dive watches edge out chronographs as the
de facto all-purpose, go-anywhere, sports watch – including for those who,
relatively speaking, go nowhere. It’s not just the robustness of watches
ostensibly built for tough situations: in dressed down times, the colour
and character inherent to dive watch designs has made them move centre
stage, along with a sense of rugged history that’s easily as evocative as
the automotive glam associated with chronographs, and arguably more
fashionable. Amid the rise of the all-conquering desk diver, then, here’s a
trio of specialist dive watches that really mean business.
MARATHON
ARCTIC EDITION MEDIUM DIVER’S
AUTOMATIC (MSAR)
Marathon is a determinedly no-nonsense
watch company. Based in Canada, its long-
term business has been built around sup-
DOXA
SUB600 T PACIFIC
plying redoubtable timepieces to the US
armed forces, staking its reputation on the With its famous connection to Jacques-Yves Cousteau,
reliability and functional utility of its watch- whose orange-dialled Sub became familiar to millions
es, all of which are made in La Chaux-de- of viewers of The Undersea World, Doxa is one of
Fonds in Switzerland.. The Medium Diver’s the most revered and distinct names in historic dive
Automatic has been designed for a very watches, that’s been rising back to the surface of late
specific – and totally uncompromising – with the kind of dizzying speed that would give anyone
purpose: to furnish the wrists of search the bends. The Sub600 T Pacific brings back a model
and rescue professionals; though made first seen in a less-fashionable dive watch era, the 1980s
to government military specifications, it’s – and for the uninitiated, it’s something of a revelation.
been widely worn by combat troops too. The sturdy, tonneau-shaped titanium case, offset crown
With a depth-rating of 300 metres, it uses and bold dial features carry plenty of quirk, while the
tritium gas tubes to generate powerful low marine blue colour code will be as on point with some
light visibility; and at 36mm across, delivers lively Nike Dunks as it with a wetsuit in the tropics. Make
one of the smaller hardcore dive watches no mistake though, this is a mean diving machine, with
available. a 600 metre depth rating.
DELMA
BLUE SHARK III AZORES
For local visitors to WatchPro Salon, Delma may be a real discovery: a long-
standing, family-owned watch company producing handsome, terrifically
capable tool watches at a great value point (look out for its latest Commander
aviation pieces too). Equipped with a helium escape valve and a depth-rating
of 4000 metres, the third gen of Delma’s Blue Shark dive series is an absolute
beast by any standards, but a rather handsome one too. There are 11 versions
to choose from so far, with 500 watches made for each iteration – proceeds
from the latest, the ‘Azores’ edition, support the Megalodon Project shark
conservation initiative.
24 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2021 / watchpro.comWATCH COLUMNS / ROBIN SWITHINBANK
CAN WE TALK ABOUT
GENDER BLINDNESS?
THE GREY, MALE AND STALE IMAGE OF WATCHMAKING IN SWITZERLAND IS PROVING TOUGH TO SHIFT, AND WOMEN FEEL SHORT CHANGED WITH
WATCHES THAT LOOK LIKE AN AFTERTHOUGHT DISGUISED WITH DIAMONDS. THAT IS SIMPLY PATRONISING, SAYS FORMER HODINKEE EDITOR CARA
BARRETT, WHO BELIEVES EVERY WATCH IS FOR ANYBODY ON THE PLANET. IS THIS THE MAINSTREAM VIEW OF CONSUMERS, OR ARE WATCHMAKERS
RIGHT TO DISTINGUISH BETWEEN MEN’S AND LADIES’ MODELS? ROBIN SWITHINBANK WADES INTO THE GENDER-NEUTRAL DEBATE
T
hose who’ve been in the watch citing particular frustration with the narrow is growing, too. The report went on to
industry more than a very short gender-framed windows through which estimate sales of luxury watches to women
time will have little trouble brands and retailers continue to push their will be worth $26.7 billion (£19.6 billion) by
recalling some of the sexist wares. 2027, still more than half.
watch advertising campaigns of the Her cause earned her plenty of colourful As fascinating as those conclusions are,
past. IWC is now unrecognisable as the feedback. To paraphrase, there were plenty they mask significant differences in what
brand that until not long ago ran the of female voices adding grist to the mill, but men and women actually buy. Watches
taglines, “Almost as complicated as a more male voices throwing grit into it. At the of Switzerland Group’s Market Report
woman. Except it’s on time”, and, worse, risk of appearing too black and white, there 2021 revealed UK men spend more on a
the exquisitely dreadful, “Equality of the were plenty of moderate responses, too. watch, with 53 per cent of the group’s 2020
sexes has to stop somewhere.” I’ve spoken with Cara about this and she watch sales to men priced over £10,000,
Breitling’s not so distant past is just as remains resolute. “A watch is a watch” is the compared to 29 per cent for women. It
transgressive. As recently as 2017, it was gist of her argument. Those who champion also calculated that women buy many
still presenting scantily clad women at that view – and there are plenty of men more bi-colour watches, 43 per cent to 21
launch events, while the highly sexualised in the chorus – agree it’s not for a brand per cent, and watches with smaller case
Baselworld parties the company was to determine whether a watch should be sizes (although the average is creeping
once renowned for only died a death the bought, worn and enjoyed by a man or a up), while men buy more automatics at 93
following year. Three years ago, Breitling’s woman. Let the customer decide. By that per cent to 70 per cent, and more sports
chief executive Georges Kern, once of IWC, token, why market one as pink and sparkly watches at 72 per cent to 19 per cent. Other
closed that chapter, telling the German and another as dark and brooding? Why than convergence around brands and
newspaper SonntagsZeitung that such steer men in one direction, and women in mechanicals, there were few areas where
themes are “no longer suitable and do not another? the group identified buying parallels across
reflect values of today’s society.” The Swiss It’s a knotty issue, one scarcely untangled genders.
watch industry, as so often, in catch-up by the data, for all that it can help shape If those numbers are a guide, why
mode. our understanding. In May, Allied Market wouldn’t marketeers and retailers tailor
Fresh memories such as these go a long Research published a report indicating the their strategies accordingly? Although
way to explaining why the voices behind luxury watch market is already dominated then again, are those numbers as they
the current debate around genderless, or by female consumers. It said sales of are because those strategies are already
unisex watches, are so potent. Earlier this watches over $1,200 (£870) to women were tailored that way? Would women spend
year, former Hodinkee editor Cara Barrett worth $23.7 billion (£17.4 billion) in 2019, 54.4 more if the opportunity was there, or made
wrote a landmark piece on why she felt per cent of the total market value. More clearer? By the same hypothesis, are quartz
watches should be neither male nor female, than half? I was surprised. The segment watches with mother-of-pearl, diamond-dot
26 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2021 / watchpro.comROBIN SWITHINBANK / WATCH COLUMNS
Watches of Switzerland Group Market Report 2021
44% Women
Percentage of sales that are diamond-set watches Men
12%
19%
Percentage of sales that are sports watches
72%
70%
Percentage of sales that are automatics
93%
43%
Percentage of sales that are bi-colour watches
21%
29%
Percentage of sales that are £10,000 or more
53%
0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100%
dials more popular among women per cent. Maybe the figures are just a who says 90 per cent of his sales are
because they’re so rarely advertised consequence of confirmation bias. to men, and he’ll tell you he has no
to men? Again, to the WOSG report, Speaking with brands, there are interest in unisex watches. Panerai
which shows 44 per cent of watches signs the landscape is reforming was, is and will be a masculine watch
the group sold to women last year around the genderless debate. Talk brand. September’s announcement
had diamond-set dials, and men’s 12 to Panerai boss Jean-Marc Pontroué, of a partnership with a black-ops
Brabus speedboat ironed out any
remaining nuance there.
Over at Zenith though, and the
story couldn’t be more different.
Julien Tornare, a man whose
experience of the Far East with
Vacheron Constantin has left him
acutely attuned to the tastes of the
fast-expanding Chinese market,
has said he has ripped up the
company playbook and is dead
set on reframing his collection, his
marketing and his retail operation
as genderless. Cynics might point
to the fact Chinese men tend to
buy smaller watches, and that a
narrower collection by case size also
brings manufacturing and marketing
efficiencies.
Others are non-plussed by it.
Edouard Meylan at H. Moser is never
short of a viewpoint, recently telling
me he had no intention of depriving
his creatives of gender as an asset
in the design process, and that
genderlessness was a byword for
watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2021 / WATCHPRO 27WATCH COLUMNS / ROBIN SWITHINBANK
homogeneity. A unisex approach, he can accommodate men’s, women’s
said, would be boring. He makes a and unisex designs, and confidently
good point. leave us to make our own decisions.
Zooming out again, female watch Who’s to say there aren’t some men
buyers have every reason to be who buy women’s watches because
frustrated. The watch business they’re positioned as women’s
is still biased towards men, or, to watches, and vice versa?
put it bluntly, still has a sexism It goes deeper than that, though.
problem. Sure, the market was built As any of those brand leaders
in a different time and on providing weighing in on the debate would
watches to men in professions once attest, no one needs what they make.
closed to women. But the world has Mechanical watches now are no
changed. Women go to war. Men more necessary than a painting or
stay at home. And the watch industry sculpture. And that’s fine. But what
should reflect that. it means is that just like art, a watch
But a narrowing around creator should enjoy total freedom of
genderlessness would be just as expression, just as the buyer should aren’t the same thing, after all, and
myopic. Certainly in design terms. enjoy total freedom to buy whatever ultimately, we mustn’t sacrifice
By all means let’s have unisex strikes them as beautiful. And from difference at the altar of equality. If
watches, and by all means let’s not one person to another, regardless of we did, I suspect history would look
ring-fence every model by gender. gender, that could mean absolutely as unkindly on us as it does on those
A healthy marketplace is one that anything. Equality and sameness awful IWC ads.
MEET THE DREAMHERS
As portmanteaus go, Zenith’s
‘DreamHers’ must have
worked better in a focus group
than the real world. But the
intention is clear. Zenith wants
women to buy its watches.
Zenith’s CEO Julien
Tournare told WATCHPRO
earlier this year that the busi-
ness would be supported and
grown on two tent pole collec-
tions: Defy and Chronomaster.
Both predominately men’s
collections, it begged the ques-
tion of whether the brand has
much to say to women.
Mr Tournare tried to put
that question to bed last
month at a gathering in
Madrid he called Meet the
DreamHers where a group of
accomplished and outspoken
women were presented with a
pair of Chronomaster Original for each hour marker, and Zenith’s signature three- nine diamonds for hour mark-
models embellished with dia- relatively discreet, making the colored subdials are pre- ers. The watches use Zenith’s
monds and a choice of a mul- 38mm steel watches suitable sented in shades of blue and El Primero 3600 Automatic
ticoloured mother-of-pearl or for women seeking a lavish grey mother of pearl in one movement and are worn on
taupe tri-colour dial. chronograph or men who reference and in tones of calfskin leather straps in ei-
The diamonds are clus- appreciate its flamboyance, taupe-brown in the second ther light blue or taupe. They
tered on the lugs plus one Zenith says. piece. Both dials are set with retail for CHF 12,900.
28 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2021 / watchpro.comAirborne and bred How do you pay tribute to the British Army’s Parachute Regiment? We think the ultra-accurate C63 Colchester chronometer fits the bill. Designed with the Paras (and named after their HQ), it brings advanced material technology together with the finest Swiss watchmaking. The watch’s carbon construction means it’s incredibly light and unbelievably strong, while the pop-out crown adds comfort without interrupting the silhouette of the Light- catcher™ case. So it always looks on-point – wherever you land. christopherward.com
WATCH COLUMNS / ROBIN SWITHINBANK
ARE SWISS WATCHMAKERS
FIDDLING WHILE GENEVA BURNS?
GENEVA’S AUTUMN WATCH AUCTIONS HAVE RACKED UP RECORD SALES ON THE BACK OF SOARING PRICES FOR THE RAREST AND MOST
DESIRABLE SWISS TIMEPIECES. BUT COULD THE HEAT OF THE VINTAGE MARKET BE CONCEALING AN UNFOLDING CRISIS FOR TODAY’S
MANUFACTURERS? ROBIN SWITHINBANK SUGGESTS THAT RISING PRICES ARE NO SUBSTITUTE FOR LONG TERM DECLINES IN UNIT SALES.
S
ome conversations stay with A day later, the first part of the In the same week and in the
you. Outside the La Réserve prophecy came true. The Geneva same city, Only Watch picked up
hotel in Geneva the night Watch Auction: XIV racked up sales the narrative. Patek scooped the
before Phillips’ November of $74.5 million, almost double the biggest sum of the night, but with
auction, I bumped into a colleague previous record total for a watch a watch inspired by a dinner party
who knows a thing or two about auction. conversation with Francis Ford
the auction scene. In that tent, he The top 12 lots all went for more Coppola, F.P. Journe wasn’t far
said, gesturing to the unremarkable than a million, but the real news behind. Patek’s boxy desk clock may
Above: white marquee parked in the hotel was what made the podium. Not have hammered for $5 million more,
Philippe Dufour is grounds where the auction would Patek Philippe – King Patek – but but because we’re counting, that
rightly feted for his take place, there are pieces made two watches made by Philippe $9.5 million sum was a third of what
impeccable artistry, by living independents that will Dufour, and another by F.P. Journe. the record-breaking Patek Philippe
but making him become the world’s most collectible Unlike Antoine Patek and Adrien Grandmaster Chime went for at the
a poster boy for watches. Not only that, he added Philippe, Dufour and Journe, authors 2019 version of the event. Journe’s
the future of Swiss portentously, these watches will of the contemporary independent tripled what his achieved two years
watchmaking is a define collecting tastes for the next watchmaking scene, are very much before. You don’t have to stare to see
step too far. decade. still alive. where this might be going.
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comes to the table, and records
continue to fall. It’s highly unlikely
that the Grandmaster Chime will be
the most expensive watch in the
world forever.
But before we go thinking this is all
fair and lovely, and that the picture
is rosier than a mid-summer garden
party, consider this: it’s not.
Because while these heroic
moments foist the industry’s
greatest living watchmakers and
a narrow portfolio of billion-dollar
brands into the spotlight, backstage
the clouds are gathering around the
Swiss watch industry.
Exports have been plummeting
for years, almost certainly never to
recover, defying the tub-thumpers
of the not-so-distant past who said
the watch industry was at barely a
fraction of its full potential. Some
insiders say they see exports
plunging below 10 million watches
a year inside the next five years, the
industry battered by smartwatches
and cooled by post-pandemic
economic winds. That would
amount to two thirds of the 2015
Which is where? Part of the doesn’t look so impregnable. Patek’s total, almost 20 million units lost in a
story is just as my colleague in current collection – forgetting the little over a decade. Gone. Vanished.
the shadows had it. The rise of the Boxing Day sale-style rush for the The answer to why and where is
independents has been coming, green-dialled 5711 – seems to hold a difficult one to swallow: the watch
but Phillip’s Geneva auction had less sway with the auction houses’ industry has an image problem. Out-
the distinct look of a tipping point. invisible paddle wavers than pieces of-touch, irrelevant, not cool. Look at
Things will never be the same again. made by a Dufour or a Journe. Of it this way. The industry’s lodestar is
As with living artists like Koons, the four Patek lots that fetched an old man with a beard and a pipe,
Hockney and Beeple, Dufour, more than $750,000 in that Geneva who makes watches for the 0.1 per
Journe et al (Kari Voutilainen’s auction, the most recent was made cent of the 0.1 per cent. I’m aware of
not far behind, and accelerating in 1954. And at the same figure and how disrespectful that might sound,
fast is Rexhep Rexhepi, whose up, there were eight watches by and that shouldn’t be read as a
Chronomètre Contemporain II Dufour and Journe. Pieces made slight on Mr Dufour, who is a man of
took $800,000 at Only Watch) by living artists. Why? I’m not sure. extraordinary talent and influence
have become the darlings of the A thirst for creative originality? and rightfully feted. But outside the
auction scene. No one’s suggesting Boredom? Collectors are flighty, circus, no one wants to be fire-eater.
they’re dominating it. Yet. Look capricious creatures – and easily led. A similar thought occurred to
over the Geneva Watch Auction: Less illuminating but just as me at the GPHG the day before
Above: XIV catalogue, and Patek, Rolex, salient is the widely and now long- that Phillips auction. In too many
Philippe Dufour’s Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille held view that this autumn’s results categories, the winners declined
Grande Sonnerie still ate up most of the turf. But, and have cemented watches’ status as to represent anything the world
sold for CHF this might be the crunch, there are a among the most collectible objects beyond the tent would value. I left
4,749,000 at the lot more of them around. in the world, alongside art, cars the Théâtre du Léman with a greater
Phillips Geneva And then there’s Patek. Safe and jewellery. The best of the best understanding of why Rolex, which
Watch Auction as houses Patek. It would seem aren’t quite in the same gallery as doesn’t enter the awards, has 25 per
XIV while a Patek unlikely that Patek’s results this the da Vincis and the 250GTOs, but cent of the market.
Philippe Ref. 2499 autumn will have the Sterns running watches, for better or for worse, are It’s all very well fiddling with one-
first series went for to the family vault, silken sacks at now an asset class in their own right. offs and arcane complications, but
CHF 3,539,000. the ready, but the castle suddenly New pieces emerge, fresh money Geneva just might be burning.
32 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2021 / watchpro.comKEEP UP TO DATE
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LinkedIn WatchProBUSINESS BRIEFING / BREITLING SUPER AVI SUMMIT
BREITLING RETURNS TO AVIATION
IT MUST HAVE COST HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS. MAYBE EVEN A MILLION OR SO TO WHIP THE BREITLING
DALLAS SUMMIT INTO SHAPE FOR THE UNVEILING OF THE SUPER AVI LINE. ROBERTA NAAS FLIES INTO THE
AVIATION-THEMED JAMBOREE TO GET A MEASURE OF THE THEATRICS AND TIMEPIECES.
A
nybody even remotely Aviation Education Center. planes, along with Georges Kern,
familiar with Breitling is Four of the rarest World War II stepped out of the planes, climbed
aware of the sweeping planes – the ones that inspired a new down amidst the lighting smoke
changes that have been aviation watch collection – flew in and climbed on stage. The surreal
taking place over the past four- formation from Virginia to Dallas for minutes that made the connection
and-a-half years since Georges a spectacular marketing video and between the vintage 1930’s and ‘40’s
Kern took over the helm of the a huge statement-making event that planes and modern time was more
company and began steering it culminated in C-47 flights flanked by like a scene from a well-produced
towards ever higher heights. the legendary fighter planes. The day movie than from a summit.
He pulled the brand from began when nearly 100 retailers and When the applause quieted down,
Baselworld, he implemented the watch writers gathered in the hanger the video came on screen showing
unique concept of “Squad on a of the airport and were seated in the four fighter planes flying in
Mission” that teams three brand front of a large stage where we knew formation in what was history in
ambassadors under a single theme. Georges Kern would be making his the making. The planes included
There has been a rapid roll out appearance. the North American Aviation P-51
of new look Breitling monobrand Within minutes, the hanger doors Mustang, the Vought F4U Corsair,
stores, and he has launched summits began rolling sideways, opening to the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk and the
around the world that are more the great outdoors. Smoke ushered beloved de Havilland Mosquito. Each
like theatrical productions than in and as the doors continued to plane had been flown in by highly
Above: conferences and that draw invitees open, all four World War II fighter experienced pilots for the summit.
Georges Kern goes firmly into the world of Breitling. planes parked outside came into Just the logistics of getting the planes
full Top Gun for the Such was the case with last week’s view. The center one moved forward there had to be its own nightmare
launch of the Super Dallas Summit that took place at the partially into the hangar before as there are just a limited number
AVI collection. Dallas Executive Airport’s National coming to a stop. The pilots of all four of each of them left in the world in
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