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SEPTRMBER 2019
Vol.105

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Trekking the Himalayas
                            SPEAKEASY
Ready? Fight!
Making a Sustainable Impact
                                 BARS
                         Photos of the Xi'an Scene
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免费取阅 - BARS Trekking the Himalayas SPEAKEASY - Xianease
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September 2019

 6
      Sep Calendar
      What’s Going On in Xi’an

      Food & Drink
                                              CONTENTS
 8 Localand · 霁在游牧料理
10 Seasonal Tastes-The Westin Xi’an
     知味咖啡厅
12 Bar Take Five (Gaoxin)
14 Morii Vintage Lifestyle Morii复古空间
16 Made By Mesh: Chocolate, Coffee,
     Cranberry and Cashew Nut Fudge

      Top 5
18 Top 5 - Speakeasy Bars                     8                                14
      Infographic
20 Trash Sorting Cheatsheet

      Arts &
      Entertainment
22    Shows You Can’t Miss

      Sponsored
24 Qujiang Obstetrics & Gynecology Hospital
32 A Positive Journey at Canopy by Hilton
     Chengdu City Centre
                                              16                               22
      Travel
34 Trekking the Himalayas

      Community
40    Ready? Fight!
44    Making a Sustainable Impact

      Xi’an Scene
48 Photos of the Xi'an Scene                  34                               40
      Listings                                 Discover YOUR
51   BARS / CLUBS
52   RESTAURANTS                              Xi’an and join us
52   SHOPPING                                 on WeChat and Weibo!
53   HEALTH
53   Spas
54   EDUCATION

                                                                               44
54   Medical
54   Expats services                              WeChat               Weibo
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免费取阅 - BARS Trekking the Himalayas SPEAKEASY - Xianease
XIANEASE                                                                    Hello Xi’an!
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                                                                                                          iving here always feels a little like
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September 2019 Volume 105                                                                                 our schedules are still tied to education,

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                                                                                                 to look forward to in the city (all 3 ½ weeks of
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General Enquiries 咨询                                                                             ing with old friends, a couple of bank holidays—
info@xianease.com                       SEPTRMBER 2019
                                       Vol.105                                                   fall really has it all. Oh yeah, and check out our
Operations 运营机构                                                                                  English-language cheat sheet for the new trash
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Xi’an (Head Office) 西安(总部)
No. 1 Xihuamen, Xi’an 西安西华门1号
                                      Trekking the Himalayas

Tel 电话: 029-8720 1616                 Ready? Fight!                 SPEAKEASY
                                      Making a Sustainable Impact        BARS                                                            -Tim King
Fax 传真: 029-8720 1077                                                Photos of the Xi'an Scene

                                                                                                                                    Editor-in-Chief

Editor-In-Chief 主编
Tim King tim.king@xianease.com
Designer / Editor 美术设计
Dylan dylan@xianease.com
Art Director 美术设计
Super Jing wu.jinjing@xianease.com
Sales Director 广告总监
Daisy Zhao zhaoxi@xianease.com

This month’s contributors 投稿志愿者
Daun Yorke
Gary Wood
Haytham
Mike Leaner
Nahida Khan
Oomesh Nana
Sammy Pryse
Thabo Jaffe thabojaffe@gmail.com
Tim King tim.king@xianease.com
www.xianease.com                                                                                                                                       5
免费取阅 - BARS Trekking the Himalayas SPEAKEASY - Xianease
September Calendar

     Sep 8                                      Sep 13                                    Sep 21
Concert                                    Concert                                   Concert
THE FUR.巡演-西安站
Time: 8:00pm-9:30pm                        -执此一念 巡演 西安站                              Time: 8:30pm-10:00pm
Location: MAO Livehouse                                                              Location: MAO Livehouse
                                           Time: 8:30pm-10:00pm
Address: Qujiang Creative Circle, Yanx-                                              Address: Qujiang Creative Circle, Yanx-
iang Road, Qujiang District.               Location: MAO Livehouse                   iang Road, Qujiang District.
雁塔区雁翔路3369号曲江创意谷                           Address: Qujiang Creative Circle, Yanx-   雁塔区雁翔路3369号曲江创意谷
                                           iang Road, Qujiang District.
Tickets: 90/100/120RMB                                                               Tickets: 80/100RMB
                                           雁塔区雁翔路3369号曲江创意谷
                                           Tickets: 100/120/150/220RMB

                                                                                          Sep 23
                                                                                     Xi’an Comedy Club
                                                                                     Location: TBA
                                                                                     Add Wayner on WeChat (ID: Wayner012)
                                                                                     to be added to the audience group and
                                                                                     be among the first to hear about new
                                                                                     shows!
     Sep 13-15                                  Sep 14
Concert                                    Concert
Rhyme of the state-Peking Sound Fragment 2019
Opera Symphony Concert Tour
             声音碎片“遍地风流”
【第二届西安国际舞蹈节】
             第二轮巡演 西安站
开幕演出 马修·伯恩舞剧
             Time: 8:30pm-10:00pm
《天鹅湖》
                                           Location: 1935livehouse
Time: 7:30pm                               Address: Dahua 1935, #251, Tai Hua
Location: SNPAC-Theater (陕西大剧院-            Nan Lu.
戏剧厅)                                       新城区太华南路251号大华1935小剧场
Address: Yanta Nan Lu, Qujiang District.   集群壹剧场
曲江新区雁塔南路                                   Tickets: 150/180RMB
Tickets: 80~880RMB

6                                                                                                                   xianease
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Sep 25/27/29                               Sep 30                                   September            Every Friday

Concert                                    Concert
                                           M_DSK X M-LAB
                                                                                    Toastmasters
BUICK·Shaanxi Opera
House International                        满舒克 “ 神经浪游 ”                             Time: 7:30pm - 9:30pm
Co-production Verdi:                       2019巡演 西安站                               Address: Classroom
                                                                                    No.1of Wendu educa-
Rigoletto                                  Time: 8:30pm-10:00pm                     tion, SAIGE shopping center Floor10,
陕西大剧院首度全球联合制                               Location: 1935livehouse                  Chang’an zhong lu, northeast of Xiaozhai
                                           Address: Dahua 1935, #251, Tai Hua       crossroad
作 威尔第歌剧《弄臣》                                Nan Lu.                                  小寨赛格国际购物中心10楼文都教育
Time: 7:45pm                               新城区太华南路251号大华1935小剧场                     第一教室
                                           集群壹剧场                                    Special: Every week different meeting
Location: SNPAC – Opera House (陕西
                                           Tickets: 249/299/349RMB                  themes, Public speaking in English!
大剧院-歌剧厅)
Address: Yanta Nan Lu, Qujiang District.
曲江新区雁塔南路
Tickets: 180~480RMB
                                                                                       September
                                                                                     Hash House
                                                                                     Harriers
                                                                                    Want to join the world-
                                                                                    famous Xi’an Hash Run?
                                                                                    Follow us on WeChat to
     Sep 30                                    Oct 2                                find info on this month’s
                                                                                    run!
Concert                                    Concert
“Portraits” Greyson                        Sir Simon Rattle/ Emanuel
Chance 2019                                Ax and London Symphony                   Wechat:
                                           Orchestra                                The-4-Horsemen
2019 巡回演唱会 西安站
Time: 8:00pm-9:30pm                        【西安音乐厅十周年巨献】
                                           西蒙·拉特爵士、伊曼纽
Location: Core Space (高新·果核剧场)
Address: No.14, Gaoxin 2 Lu, Gaoxin        尔·艾克斯与伦敦交响乐团                               September Every Sun/Sat
District.
高新区高新二路14号                                 2019 西安音乐会                               Ultimate Frisbee
Tel: (029) 8550 1111                       Time: 1:30pm-9:30pm
Tickets: 480RMB                                                                     Every Saturday
                                           Location: Xi’an Concert Hall (西安音
                                                                                    Match: 3:00pm - 7:00pm
                                           乐厅)
                                           Address: Yanta Nan Lu, Qujiang District. Location: Xi’an Jiao Tong University of
                                           曲江新区雁塔南路                                 Finance and Economics (西安交通大学
                                                                                    财经学院), just next to the 纬二街(Wei Er
                                           Tickets: 280~1580RMB                     Jie) bus stop.
                                                                                    Every Sunday
                                                                                    Match: 3:00pm - 7:00pm
                                                                                    Location: Xi’an Wenli Institute Taibai
                                                                                    Campus (西安文理学院), 1# Keji 6th Road.
                                                                                    科技六路1号

                                                                                    Robin 183-9258-9745
                                                                                    Rick Deckard 150-2923-3725

                   Don’t suffer from FOMO - scan this QR code to follow the offical XIANEASE
                   WeChat account, where you can find weekly events and discover your Xi’an!
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Food & Drink

Localand · 霁在游牧料理
    Article By Nahida Khan

      2F, D29, Glorious Plaza, No.305, Keji
      Road, Gaoxin District.
      高新区科技路305号西安大都荟
      D29二层
      (029) 8864 7578
      5:30pm - 9:30pm

                        Average Price
                          per Person
                         /人均消费:

                         150RMB

                                              J
                                                       i Zai You Mu Liao Li is the latest        friends. The music is very relaxing and allows
                                                       addition to the Localand family           you to appreciate both the food and your
                                                       located in the Gaoxin area. Localand      company. The founder and designer of
                                              have given a new meaning to ‘fusion’ by            Localand is an artist, which is evident by the
                                              blending local cuisine with an international       beautiful decor. He also owns the art shop
                                              taste. The head chef, Sean, brings together        located downstairs which often holds arts
                                              French, Italian and Thai influences, and           exhibitions that you can enjoy either before
                                              then mixes it with some traditional history        or after your meal. Make a night of it! The
                                              we can find here in Xi’an. Every dish has a        art shop can make it a little confusing to
                                              story behind it and is as delicious as the next.   find the restaurant but just follow the big
                                              All the dishes come served delicately, with        Localand sign and take the lift to the second
                                              beautiful decorations. The best thing about        floor. I promise you it will be worth the hunt!
                                              Ji Zai You Mu Liao Li is that that they cater
                                                                                                 Ji Zai You Mu Liao Li are introducing
                                              to different dietary requirements, whether
                                                                                                 something new and exciting to Xi’an by
                                              you are a vegetarian, pescatarian or a red
                                                                                                 creating seasonal menus which will change
                                              meat lover like me. They have something
                                                                                                 every 3 months. Get there soon if you don’t
                                              for everyone! It can be challenging to find
                                                                                                 want to miss out on what they have to offer.
                                              restaurants that don’t just serve conventional
                                                                                                 I’m sure their amazing staff will be happy to
                                              western dishes, so Ji Zai You Mu Liao Li is a
                                                                                                 see you there.
                                              refreshing alternative. Ji Zai You Mu Liao Li is
                                              perfect for a nice meal out or a casual catch
                                              up, with their platters and their amazing
Pros:                                         drinks list which features some of the best
Tasty food; great service; unique concept     wine I’ve ever tasted. Bonus points for the
                                              fact they give you the option to order by the
Cons:                                         glass, which is a rare find here in Xi’an.
Confusing but interesting entrance            Localand provides the full experience of
                                              a fusion restaurant, without breaking
                                              the bank at approximately 150-200RMB
                                              per head. The restaurant has a chilled
              Nahida Kahn can be reached at   atmosphere with a ‘treat me’ vibe, whether
                reviews@xianease.com          that is for yourself, your partner or your

8                                                                                                                                    xianease
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Food & Drink

Seasonal Tastes-The Westin Xi'an
知味咖啡厅
  Article By Haytham

     Westin Hotel, No.66 Cien Road,
     Qujiang New District.
     曲江新区慈恩路66号威斯汀大
     酒店G层
     (029) 6893 8367
     5:30am - 10:00pm

          Scan to buy Voucher

                                            I
                                                  thought I knew what to expect              the best I have ever tried so far, for it has
                                                  from hotel buffets: common dishes,         checked all the requirements to perfection.
                       Average Price              though exquisite, but taste bland and
                                                                                             Laksa is rice noodle cooked with coconut milk
                         per Person         ordinary; seafood that are simply boiled
                                                                                             and spicy curry. It is always the top choice
                        /人均消费:              and probably captured a week ago. This
                                                                                             in the school canteen, and I have had my
                                            particular seafood festival stands above the
                   208-228RMB               rest with Chef Lim Meng Seng, a chef with
                                                                                             fair share of laksa from different restaurants.
                                                                                             It is indeed a bit of disappointment in
                                            a deep understanding of southeast Asian
                                                                                             finding that the laksa in Westin is a bit
                                            delicacies, and over 40 years of experience
                                                                                             under-flavoured. Chef Lim, who is extremely
                                            in top hotels. The strong spices and tender
                                                                                             friendly and patient, explained that it is
                                            texture of the meat dishes are awe-inspiring.
                                                                                             because the coconut milk produced in
                                            Every piece of chicken has a tender texture:
                                                                                             China is less rich than in Malaysia, and has
                                            the grilled chicken satay is done perfectly,
                                                                                             guaranteed to improve it. This minor slip is
                                            not dry nor undercooked; and the Nonya
                                                                                             completely understandable, since I was there
                                            chicken’s flavour is truly elevated when being
                                                                                             on the opening day and realize the level of
                                            soaked in coconut milk. When I pressed my
                                                                                             pressure our chef is dealing with. In finishing
                                            fork onto it, there was no resistance, as if I
                                                                                             this review, I find myself considering who
                                            am piercing through a pudding.
                                                                                             to take when I visit Westin again, for the
                                            Bak-kut teh, the “meat and bone tea”             perfect laksa before this summer ends.
                                            is what I would have in Singapore every
                                            Sunday after church. A bowl of rice,
Pros:                                       soup with pork ribs and a small plate of
Great, authentic SE Asian food; good        vegetables in thick soy sauce would be the
service                                     perfect worldly meal after my soul is fed. The
                                            bak-kut teh delivered by Chef Lim showed
Cons:
                                            me the gourmet version of this dish. Any
Chinese coconut milk                        chef, from Jamie Oliver or Garden Ramsay to
                                            your grandmother would tell you that meat
                                            with bones is the finesse; the difference in
                                            the quality would lie in the processing of the
                Haythan can be reached at   raw material and control of the temperature,
              reviews@xianease.com          time taken to cook it and even the pressure
                                            in the boiler. The bak-kut teh in Westin is
10                                                                                                                               xianease
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Food & Drink

Bar Take Five (Gaoxin)
 Article By Mike Leaner

      Inside of Everyday convenience store,
      Block A, Jinqiao International Plaza,
      Keji Road.
      科技路金桥国际广场A座 每一天
      便利店内
      (029) 8822 8057
      7:00pm-2:00am

                          Average Price
                            per Person
                           /人均消费:

                            80RMB

                                                  T
                                                           ake 5’s flagship location at              a single-mixer, a Cuba Libre or a G&T is in the
                                                           Zhuque Gate is a charming place           cards as well. To accompany your drinks, you
                                                           that screams “classy” at the top          can choose a snack from the small menu of
                                                  of its lungs, from every leather couch and         appetizers and tapas. Tasty as the food is, it
                                                  hardwood furnishing. I had the pleasure of         doesn’t fit the theme super well. Meaning
                                                  doing the review of that place a few years         that, while I enjoyed every delectable bit they
                                                  ago, and I’m back to say that I lied. It’s a       put in front of me, I don’t think Al Capone
                                                  great bar, but it’s not as Boardwalk Empire        ever ate a curry ball. So it goes.
                                                  as I’d stated. Their new place in Gaoxin? I
                                                                                                     All-in-all, while I was a fan of the Take 5
                                                  promise I’m not lying this time, it’s, like,
                                                                                                     brand from the word go, this new speakeasy
                                                  straight out of Boardwalk Empire
                                                                                                     is poised to become my new favorite bar in
                                                  Take 5’s latest and greatest bar is a speakeasy,   all of Xi’an. You’ll pay for the quality, sure.
                                                  in the truest sense of that word. If you didn’t    But I am a sucker for atmosphere, I just love
                                                  know it was there, you’d probably just buy         how cool I feel sitting at the bar in a fancy
                                                  a bottle of water and a pack of cigarettes         place hidden in a convenience store—and
                                                  at the Everyday convenience store it hides         having delicious food and drinks to back it
Pros:                                             behind. No, seriously. It’s hidden inside a        up makes it all the better.
                                                  fully-functioning convenience store. The
A quartet of greats—great food, great             cashier is in on the game though, so if you
drinks, great service and great atmos-            can’t find the hidden door in the back, he’ll
phere                                             point you in the right direction. When you
                                                  make it inside, you’ll find a spacious, two-
Cons:
                                                  floor barroom that oozes Prohibition-era
I found some cocktails were a mite                atmosphere. The menus are even designed
sweet, and you can rack up a hefty bill           to look like old-timey newspapers. The
very fast if you’re not careful (or rich)         cocktails are also named to evoke that
                                                  Mafioso-tinged era—from “Leaving Las
                                                  Vegas” to “Chicago”.
                                                  Speaking of the cocktails, you’ll have
     Mike Leaner likes to get dirty but not for   your pick of liquor. There are roughly
                   free. He can be reached at     twenty signature cocktails to choose from,
               reviews@xianease.com               alongside a healthy selection of whisky and
                                                  the like, but if you’re more the type to have
12                                                                                                                                       xianease
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Food & Drink

Morii Vintage Lifestyle
Morii复古空间
  Article By Thabo Jaffe

      B1, Zhongda International, No.30
      Nan Da Jie.
      南大街30号中大国际B1层
      (029) 8720 3604
      10:00am - 2:00am

                          Average Price
                            per Person
                           /人均消费:

                           100RMB

                                                  U
                                                              nder the pretence that I was just    menu as well as English-speaking staff. The
                                                              going to do a bar review, I headed   Burpger Beer and Burger menu is American/
                                                              to the easy-to-find Zhongda          Mexican themed, with some standouts
                                                  International just inside the South Gate on      being the tacos (hard- and soft-shell), the
                                                  South Street. Walking down a well-lit side       premium hamburgers and tasty Mexican
                                                  alley I find the name I’m looking for, splayed   rice bowls. For their craft beer they’ve
                                                  across the side of the mall. I head in the       partnered with “18” Brewery of Wuhan, and
                                                  little door and start heading down some          they cover all the bases—wheat beer, stout,
                                                  stairs, but stop to anxiously check where        IPAs, saison and more—a total of about 10
                                                  my partner-in-crime for the night is. I don’t    on tap with taster sets available. Mix and
                                                  go to bars alone and I’ve been somewhat          match the food and drinks or choose one
                                                  let down by underground bars in the past.        of their combo sets. The word I would use
                                                  On cue, my partner arrives and we make           to describe it is affordable. Wednesdays are
                                                  our way inside. This wouldn’t be one of the      ladies night, AKA “Funky Nights,” whereby
                                                  times I’d be let down.                           the fairer sex gets a buy-one-get-one-free as
Pros:                                                                                              well as a 99RMB “free flow beer” special.
                                                  It would be grossly unfair to say that we
Great Americana atmosphere, good food             walked into a bar. As the name alludes           Their whiskey and cocktail bar offers all the
and beer, no difficulty for English speak-        to, Morii Vintage Lifestyle is just that.        whiskeys you could possibly think of, at a
ers, reasonable prices                            This place takes up the entire basement          competitive price, and the cocktail menu
                                                  floor, with the bar/restaurant/livehouse         has all the classics as well as some in-house
Cons:
                                                  an island surrounded by a small gallery,         specialties. Having vintage in the name
I struggled to find any                           classic barbershop, Wagyu beef restaurant,       of the establishment, I went for an old-
                                                  Chinese rice wine store, toy store, various      fashioned and was not disappointed.
                                                  clothing stores (fitting the theme), a leather
                                                                                                   The atmosphere is warm and spacious,
                                                  goods stand and a tattoo parlour. These
     Thabo is an avid explorer and less-than-                                                      with Morii going the extra mile, having
                                                  are separately managed parts that all fall
      worldly South African, always in search                                                      chairs to tables to signboards, literally all the
                                                  under the Morii umbrella, and most close at
                                                                                                   furniture, imported from vintage USA. With
      of new experiences. Stopping just short     10pm, save for the main island, which closes
                                                                                                   the promise of many future events to be
      of suicidal, he’s a true Yes Man. You can   at 2am.
                                                                                                   held here, I get the feeling that this is going
                         reach him via email at   Now onto the bar review. You can let your        to be one of Xi’an’s new nighttime hotspots.
                    thabojaffe@gmail.com          translation app rest, as they have an English

14                                                                                                                                       xianease
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Food & Drink

mes
madeby

  Article by Oomesh Nana

               offe e, Cr an berr y
   Chocolate, C           g e
   and Cas he w N ut F u d
                                                                                                         to defend
                                                      fo r m   e ca lling    this fudge but allow me
                                              inated
                       ould have me assass                                          it to be fudge’s cous
                                                                                                          in. For
A true confectioner w                                 er I  w  ou ld  co  ns  id er
                                              howev
                       ve it is actual fudge,                                    nd you into a sugar co
                                                                                                          ma or
myself—I don’t belie                           swee t gr  it  that co   uld   se
                       by that tooth-aching
me, fudge is defined
                        way, it’ll defeat you.
 sugar heaven. Either                                                                   . The recipe can be va
                                                                                                               ried, so
                                                         e   tw  eake   d  it sligh tly
                                               s and I’v
                       at of Nigella Lawson’
 This adaptation is th
               with it and  de  ve lop your own flavors.
  play around
                    60 pieces of                        rich fudge
        es at least
     Mak                                                                 d milk
                                       ch op pe d      • 1 can condense
                         chocolat   e,
     • 350 grams dark
                                 e eg g yo lk      • pinch of salt
                         1 la rg
     • 30 grams butter                                             rries
                                ew  nu  ts      • 50 grams cranbe
                        n cash
      • 150 grams plai
                                              ed
                        ng espresso, cool
      • 1/4 cup of stro

16                                                                                                        xianease
Instructions:
1. Put the chopped chocolate, condensed
milk, butter and coffee in a heavy-based
pan on a low heat, and stir to melt.
2. Put the nuts into a freezer bag and
bash them with a rolling pin, until broken
up into both big and little pieces.
3. Tip the nuts into the melted chocolate
mixture and stir well.
4. Pour and spatch this mixture into
a square 23 cm foil tray (no need for
greasing) smoothing the top.
5. Allow the fudge to cool, and refrigerate
until set. You can then cut it into small
pieces approx. 3 x 2.25cm. Cutting 8 x
10 lines in the tin to give 64 pieces best
achieves this.
6. Once cut, it can be kept in the freezer -
no need to thaw, just eat straight away.

 About Mesh:
 “My hands interpret my soul’s craving.”
 ~ Oomesh Nana
 Born with a passion for food, Oomesh, also known as Mesh, is
 a natural cook, teacher, inspirer and Chef. Mesh was inspired
 into the world of culinary by family and close friends, and has
 been playing, cooking, experimenting and creating from the
 age of 12.
 His passion for teaching, sharing and inspiring have led him
 to become a world-class
 instructor in the culinary field.
 A true natural in any kitchen,
 Mesh enchants people with
 his simple, easy-to-cook and
 fuss-free approach to food. A
 strong believer in good quality,
 fresh, local ingredients, Mesh
 is always inspired to try
 new and creative ways to
 make food taste WOW – by
 showcasing the ingredients in
 their simplest and most basic
 forms.

 Born in East London, South Africa, Mesh has published 2 recipe books.
 He is a qualified Chef and Graphic Designer and currently an English
 language teacher.
www.xianease.com                                                         17
TOP 5

                                                   Article By XIANEASE

                                SPEAKEASY BARS
There’s no shortage of pretty good places to get a drink in town, but if you’re tired of the same old song-
and-dance of bottle shops and mediocre cocktails, you might be craving a different kind of experience.
The speakeasy, a classic style of bar that was most prominent in the Prohibition-era United States,
might be that new experience. The most distinctive quality of a speakeasy is its secrecy; this trait
was once necessary to hide from authorities, but nowadays it’s mostly a tool for cultivating a sense
of exclusivity and/or cool. Either way, there is something eminently exciting about watching a hidden XIANEASE WeChat
door swing open to reveal a wonderland of booze. We’ve got the scoop on all the most secretive of
speakeasies in town, and now we’ll share with you so you can count yourself amongst those in-the-
know.

01        CINNAMON PINK                                          The first speakeasy we heard of in town, Cinnamon isn’t super
                                                                 hidden but isn’t super obvious either. A little sign next to the

          COCKTAIL BAR
                                                                 entrance, which is just inside Hanguang Gate, is all that will alert you

          肉桂粉
                                                                 to its presence. Once inside and up the stairs all you’ll find is a golden
                                                                 cocktail shaker on a pedestal, as if you were starring in Indiana Jones
                                                                 and the Raiders of the Lost Bar. When you pull it, a hidden door will
                                                                 allow you entry into a sleek, modernist bar.

                                                                                              Address:
                                                                                  Tian Shui Jing Jie, Beilin District.
                                                                                                甜水井街
                                                                       Phone: (029) 8962 8697 Hours: 7:00pm-2:00am

02        MR. K BAR & LOUNGE                                     Mr. K, located near Zhuque Gate, is also not exactly hidden—but
                                                                 it did confuse the hell out of one of our reviewers, who did not
                                                                 anticipate that the switch to open the door was in the Olmeca
                                                                 head’s nose. Once you’ve appeased him with a good nose-picking,
                                                                 he swings aside and lets you pass into the spacious bar decorated
                                                                 with many more Olmeca heads. This swanky place can make drinks
                                                                 quickly and has live performances as well.

                                                                                             Address:
                                                                              No.8, Tai Yang Miao Men, Beilin District.
                                                                                         朱雀门里太阳庙门8号
                                                                         Phone: (029) 8737 1545 Hours: 8:00pm-3:00am

18                                                                                                                             xianease
03        MORE WHISKY                                                More Whisky Bar’s liquid pleasures are locked behind a
                                                                     keypad, which is not adorned with numbers, but rather with
                                                                     a set of Chinese characters—some familiar, some cryptic.
                                                                     We’re not sure of the exact combination, but we think it’s safe
                                                                     to say that inputting 我,要,喝, and酒 (“I want to drink alcohol”)
                                                                     should allow you inside. This whisky, martini and cigar bar has
                                                                     everything you need to indulge your inner robber-baron-fat-
                                                                     cat.

                                                                                               Address:
                                                                                South Gate of Qujiang 6 Hao, Cuiwei Road
                                                                                             翠微路曲江6号南门
                                                                                          Phone: (029) 8550 8552
                                                                                          Hours: 7:00pm-2:00am

04        THE CIRQUE
          威士忌酒吧妙手回春
                                                                     Don’t be fooled by the quaint, unattended charms of the Chinese
                                                                     medicine shop before you. Like any good secret room, Cirque is
                                                                     hidden behind the bookcase. Slide it open and you’ll find a top-notch
                                                                     cocktail bar and, if you’re one of the V-I-est-Ps, you’ll perhaps get to
                                                                     enjoy the also-hidden VIP lounge, complete with a private bar.

                                                                                             Address:
                                                                       Southwest corner square at the intersection of Xinkaimen
                                                                                   South Road and Hanyao Road.
                                                                                新开门南路与寒窑路交口西南角下沉广场
                                                                                          Phone: 153-1992-5262
                                                                                         Hours: 11:00am-10:00pm

05        BAR TAKE 5 (GAOXIN)                                        While you might be familiar with Take 5’s captain-of-industry-
                                                                     styled bar inside Zhuque Gate, their new location in Gaoxin on Keji
                                                                     Lu is maybe the ultimate in Xi’an speakeasies. Your friends will
                                                                     wonder why the hell you’re taking them to an Everyday convenience
                                                                     store, and then you’ll get to enjoy their bafflement when you push a
                                                                     button on the back wall and reveal a bar that feels like it was just out
                                                                     of the Jazz Age. See our review in this issue for more details.

                                                                                               Address:
                                                                         Inside of Everyday convenience store, Block A, Jinqiao
                                                                                     International Plaza, Keji Road.
                                                                                科技路金桥国际广场A座 每一天便利店内
                                                                                          Phone: (029) 8822 8057
                                                                                          Hours: 7:00pm-2:00am

             Know more Xi’an top five? Send an email to top5@xianease.com or go to www.xianease.com and leave a comment.
www.xianease.com
www.xianease.com                                                                                                                         19
Infographic

20                 xianease
www.xianease.com
www.xianease.com   21
Arts & Entertainment

                                 You can't Miss
                                                             Article by Tim King

THE FUR.                                                                 THE 16TH FLOOR
SEPT. 8th (SUN) - MAO LIVEHOUSE                                          SEPT. 21ST (SAT) - MAO LIVEHOUSE
I’m really not too sure what to make of the Fur. Allegedly named         The 16th Floor (16层) sounds a lot like Explosions in the Sky. That’s
for their desire to make “soft and comfy” music, it’s really hard        a pretty good shorthand for post-rock at large, but I would say they
for me to know whether I should take them at face value. That’s          sound particularly like the genre’s elephant in the room. From the
because, firstly, mission accomplished; this band’s music is awash       song construction, to the tones, to the inability to resist a crescendo,
in sustained, fuzzed-out 80s synth (Reaganomics!), and has a             it’s all a bit paint-by-numbers, but painted very well. Sure to get
lackadaisical, almost funky edge to it. My first thought was, “island    you in a day-dreamy trance, the 16th Floor may not be winning
music,” not for anything that conjures up Bali or the Bahamas, but       any prizes for innovation, but unlike some of the other bands in
more for the fact that I can’t imagine doing anything that isn’t         Chinese post-rock, they have a willingness to indulge in the cheesy,
leisurely while listening to the Fur’s music. But then again, I wonder   emotionally manipulative sonic theatrics that make the genre one
what the hell is really going on, because, secondly, there’s a whole     of my favorites.
song about grandma wanting to talk to Lionel Messi because she’s
lonely. Wonders never cease.

                                                                         XI’AN COMEDY CLUB
                                                                         SEPT. 23RD (MON)- TBA
                                                                         Xi’an’s burgeoning standup scene is hot off the heels of a good
                                                                         (albeit rainy) show in August, and will be back in late September for
                                                                         another round. Homegrown acts from all over the world try their
                                                                         hand at making you laugh, and sometimes they succeed. Never
                                                                         predictable, usually entertaining, always one-of-a-kind, the rumors
                                                                         are true: Xi’an Comedy Club is worth a look. Come for the train
                                                                         wreck, stay for the train. Add Wayner on WeChat (ID: wayner012) to
                                                                         be added to the Audience group so you can know venue and show
                                                                         times as soon as they’re announced!

     Tim King is the editor-in-chief of Xianease Magazine
     and an erstwhile punk rocker. He can be reached at
                  tim.king@xianease.com

22                                                                                                                                    xianease
Date
              Sep Shows
              Time          Location                                 Show                                 Type                    Price (¥)

 2019/9/7      19:30   SNPAC-Xi’an Concert Hall      XSO Tchaikovsky and Stravinsky Concert            Symphony           ¥60/30/120/150/200

 2019/9/7      20:30       1935 Livehouse                 Huang Yuli 90’s boy 2019 Tour                    Folk            ¥60 (stu) / 80 (pre) /
                                                                                                                              100 (at door)
 2019/9/8      20:00       Mao Livehouse                    THE FUR.                         Indie         ¥ 100 (pre) /120 (at door)

                                                             Favours! 2019 Album
 2019/9/8      20:30       1935 Livehouse                                                               Electronic       ¥ 80 (pre) /100 (at door)
                                                   Release Tour

 2019/9/11     20:30       1935 Livehouse               Punisher 2019 Autumn Tour                         Metal          ¥ 80 (pre) /100 (at door)

 2019/9/13     20:30       Mao Livehouse                    2019 Li Shangan Tour                                         ¥120 (stu) / 150 (pre) /
                                                                                                           Folk                220 for 2
 2019/9/13     19:45
                                                                                                          Dance          ¥80/100/280/380/480/
 2019/9/14     19:30     SNPAC-Opera House              Matthew Bourn’s Swan Lake
                                                                                                                             580/680/880
 2019/9/15     14:30

                           1935 Livehouse          [Showcase] Aperture 10th Anniversary: FAZZ/ Mer-     Showcase        ¥ 120 (pre) /150 (at door)
 2019/9/14     20:00
                                                     cader/ Train lays on the railway/ WEST BY WEST

 2019/9/14     20:30      Sixteen livehouse                 Dua Tonguan 2019 Tour                          Folk                    ¥100

 2019/9/20     19:30   SNPAC-Xi’an Concert Hall    Game of Thrones: Constantino Carrara Film Music        Piano          ¥100/180/280/380/480
                                                                   Piano Concert
                                                   [Showcase] Aperture 10th Anniversary: Zuriaake /
 2019/9/20     20:00       1935 Livehouse                                                             Chinese Classic         ¥100/180/200
                                                              Black_Kirin/ TUMOURBOY

 2019/9/25     19:45
                                                  BUICK·Shaanxi Opera House International                                  ¥100/280/380/480/
 2019/9/27     19:30    SNPAC – Opera House                                                               Opera
                                                       Co-production Verdi: Rigoletto                                         680/780/880
 2019/9/29     14:30

 2019/9/27     20:30       Mao Livehouse                  Glow Curive Invisible History                   Indie         ¥100 (pre) / 120 (at door)

                                                   2018 China Young Artists Platform of Dance
 2019/9/28     19:30      SNPAC – Theater                                                                 Dance           ¥60/90/120/160/220
                                                               work: 32 Chapters

 2019/9/28     20:00         Core Space           [Core Space live] Wan Xiaoli 2019 china Tour             Folk         ¥140 (pre) / 160 (at door)

                                                                 [Core Space live]
 2019/9/30     20:00         Core Space                                                                    POP                     ¥480
                                                      “Portraits” Greyson Chance 2019 Tour

 2019/9/30     20:30       1935 Livehouse                                                                               ¥249 (pre) / 299 (at door) /
                                                    M_DSK X M-LAB YoungJack 2019 Tour                    Hip Hop
                                                                                                                                349 (VIP)
                                                  Sir Simon Rattle/ Emanuel Ax and London Symphony                       ¥280/580/780/980/1180
 2019/10/2     13:30   SNPAC-Xi’an Concert Hall                                                        Symphony
                                                                    Orchestra Concert                                        /1380/1580

 * All information is subject to change. Check Xianease or Venue WeChat accounts for up-to-date info
www.xianease.com                                                                                                                                     23
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26   xianease
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                                                                                                                                                                       Huancheng Bei Lu 环城 北路

                                                      Xinghuo Lu
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   NORTH GATE                                Shuncheng Bei Lu 顺城北路
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                                                                                                                  Xiwu Yuan                                                        Yaowang Dong                                               药王洞                                                         Xi 7 Lu                            Xi 7 Lu                              西七路                                         Dong 7 Lu                                           东七路

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Shangqin Lu 尚 勤 路

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  PEOPLE’S RENMIN SQUARE

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Beikuo Men

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                GOVERNMENT HOTEL
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Xi Hua Men                                Xixin Jie 西新路               Dongxin Jie                                                                                         东新路                                                                                                    (XIAO DONG MEN)

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Bei Da Jie (North Street)
7

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   回民街
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Shuncheng Dong Lu

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  环城东路

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Gengxin Jie

                                                                                                                                                                          Daxue Xi Xiang

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                                                 WEST GATE                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Dongsan                                                    EAST GATE
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                                                                                                                           (HAN GUANG MEN)                                                 (ZHU QUE MEN)

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Wenjing Lu文 景 路

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Mingguang Lu 明 光 路
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Taihua Bei Lu
                                        Y371                                                                                                           Y371
1                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Er huan Bei Lu - Second Ring Road- North                                                                                                                                                                            二环北路                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Guangan Lu 广 安 路
                                                                                    LEGEND:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   贞观路

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           开元路
                                  BELL TOWER                                                                                                      TRAIN STATION                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Xuanwu Lu                                               玄武路
    1                                                                                                                                               SHAANXI
                                 DRUM TOWER                                                                                                        PROVINCIAL

                                                                                                                     洛门路
                                                                                                                                                    MUSEUM                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Fengcheng Nanlu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Taiyuan Lu                 太元路                                                                                                              Taiyuan Lu                            矿山

                                  BIG WILD                                                                                                         SMALL WILD
                                GOOSE PAGODA                                                                                                      GOOSE PAGODA

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Mingguang Lu
    2                             METRO LINE 1                                                                                                    METRO LINE 2

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Weiyang Lu未 央 路
                                  METRO LINE 3                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               DA MING GONG                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Xi’an

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Zhuhong Lu 朱 宏 路
                                                                                                                                                                                                  Liyuan Lu 梨 园 路                                                                 Longshou Beilu 龙 首 北 路                                                                                                                                                                     Longshou Beilu                                                                     PALACE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Taihua Lu 太 华 路

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Wenjing Lu 文 景 路
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Nongxing Lu                                                         Longshou Nanlu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   路

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Yongxin Lu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Hanyuan Lu                               含元
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Dong                        Lu
    3                                                                                                                                                  Daxing Dong Lu                              大兴东路                                                 Hongmiaopo Lu                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Huaqing
                  Daxing Xi Lu 大 兴 西 路
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Xingzhong Lu 兴 中 路
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Zhenhua Lu

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Jianqiang Lu 建 强 路
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Xinggong Lu 兴 工 路
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Erma Lu                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                西路
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       华清

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Xinghuo Lu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Er huan Dong Lu - Second Ring Road- East二 环 东 路

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    4                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Huancheng Bei Lu                                                                                                                                      环城北路                                                    TRAIN STATION                                                                                                                                                       Changying Xi Lu                   长缨西路                                                                                     Changying Dong Lu                                         长缨
                                                                                                                                                    Xixie Lu                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     NORTH GATE                                                    Shuncheng Bei Lu
                                                                                                                                                               西斜路                                                                                                                                                                            Shuncheng Bei Lu                                                                    (BEI MEN)
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Lixin Jie                                                                                                  GE MING
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Gongyuan Bei Lu

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Qingnian Lu                                                                                                                                              PARK

                                                                                                                               Taoyuan Bei Lu
                                                                                                                                                                                 Laodong Bei Lu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Lianhu Lu 莲 湖 路                                                                                                                                      Xiwu Lu 西 五 路                                                                                                                                                                                           Changle Xi Lu                                     长乐西路
                                                                                                                           Daqing Lu               大庆路
    5                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              LIAN HU                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Dong 4 Lu                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Jinkang Lu                            金康路

                                               Er huan Xi Lu - Second Ring Road- West二 环 西 路
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Xiangmi Yuan                                                                                                                                                                                                   SHAANXI SOFITEL XI’AN ON
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                RENMIN SQUARE                                                                                                     Dong 2 Lu

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Sajin Qiao
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Shangqin Lu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          公园北路

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Xi Cang                                                                                                                                                    PEOPLE’S     HOTEL
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Xixin Jie                                                  Dongxin Jie                                                        Dongxin Jie

                                                                                                                               Taoyuan Lu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Jiefang Lu解 放 路
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Huancheng Dong Lu

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Miaohou Jie                                               Xiyang Shi                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Changle

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Huancheng Xi Lu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Jinhua Lu金 花 路

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Beima Dao Xiang
                                                                                                                                                                                        Tietasi Lu 铁 塔 寺 路
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Bei Da Jie (North Street)

                                                                                                                              Tuanjie Dong Lu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Kangle Lu康 乐 路

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        西一路
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Shuncheng Dong Lu

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Xiyi Lu                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Suoluo Xiang
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Huimin Jie
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           环城东路

                                                                                               Fengdeng Bei Lu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Xiju Yuan Xiang
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 PARK
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Gengxin Jie

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Daxue Xi Xiang

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Damai Shi Jie

    6                   Fenghao Xi Lu                                                                                   Fenghao Dong Lu 丰 镐 东 路                                   Xiguan Zheng Jie                                                                                              Xi Da Jie (West Street)                                                                        西大街                                                                                                   Dong Da Jie (East Street)                                                                      东大街                                                                                              Dongguan Zheng Jie                                                                 Huzhu Lu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Hansen Lu                              韩森
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               WEST GATE                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Dongsan
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       EAST GATE
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Bao En Si Jie                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Shuncheng Nan Lu
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Nan Da Jie (South Stree
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7                                                              XI’AN PEONY                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Huancheng Nan Lu                                                                                                                                               Xiangning Xi Lu 咸 宁 西 路                                                                                                                           Xiangning Xhong Lu 咸
                                                                                                                                                                                                   Fengqing Lu               丰庆路                                                                     Huancheng Nan Lu
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                                                           (MU DAN YUAN)                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 SOUTH GATE
                                                                                                                              FENG QING                     Xishi Bei Lu                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 (NAN MEN)                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           公园南路
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                                                                                                                         International                                                                                                                                                                                                                               西部大道                                                                            航天大道                                                                                                                                                                       Hang Tian Da Dao

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30   xianease
www.xianease.com   31
Sponsored

A Positive Journey
at Canopy by Hilton
Chengdu City Centre
C
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www.xianease.com                                                         33
Travel

trekking
the Himalayas
 Article by Sammy Pryse

     I
         want to recommend the most amazing holiday destination to you all, the Annapurna mountain range in the
         Himalayas, Nepal. Better than a beach, guaranteed to be better than anything you have ever experienced, if you
         can allow the rooftop of the world to rock your mind and feed your soul. It has pine forests, succulent tropical
     rainforests, dry arid deserts and rich green rolling hills all in one area. The majestic Annapurna mountain range is a
     collection of five mountains within the Himalayas stand majestically waiting for trekkers all year round and are one
     of the most famous trekking ranges due to their enormous size and accessibility, suitable for all types of trekkers, due
     to the roads that the Nepali government has built along the way.

     If you want to go hardcore and take a twelve-to-sixteen-day trip around the entire range you can, but if you
     prefer a more leisurely walk with less intensity you can take a jeep or bus to several stops and walk from there. The
     government has opened a road along the Annapurna range which allows you to travel to certain areas with vehicles.
     This gives all types of trekkers the opportunity to trek these mountains.

Recommended places to see:
                                                              The Australian Camp to Poon Hill
                                                              This trek can take between one and three days depending where
                                                              you begin and how long it takes you to walk each area. Poon Hill is
                                                              one of the most sought-after spots due to the views. You can see the
                                                              famous peaks of the Annapurna mountain range during the peak
                                                              season (October to April). However, during the monsoon season
                                                              (June to August) you may be lucky to see the range if the visibility is
                                                              clear. This trek is not terribly intense and can be managed for those of
                                                              you who are not so hardcore and would prefer to take it easy along
                                                              the way.

34                                                                                                                          xianease
Upper Pisang
                                                                       Upper Pisang is 2300 meters above sea level on the Northern
                                                                       side and was my favourite place on the whole Annapurna
                                                                       circuit due to the magnificent mauve-coloured sunsets, the
                                                                       views of the mountain ranges and the beautiful Buddhist
                                                                       Nepali people. Here the Nepali people are dressed traditionally
                                                                       in black with colorful scarves on their bodies, their faces worn
                                                                       with the heat of the sun and the harsh mountain life, but filled
                                                                       with genuine love and smiles. In their hands they held the
                                                                       wooden Buddhist prayer beads speaking out the “‘Om Mani
                                                                       Pedi Om” mantra. A new Buddhist monastery sat perched
                                                                       on top of one of the highest hills in this beautiful mountain
                                                                       town. The monastery will give you a taste of Lhasa with the
                                                                       heartwarming welcoming sounds of Tibetan horns and
                                                                       drums. This town is a must see. There are an array of beautiful
                                                                       pine wooden guests houses that provide snuggly beds and
                                                                       delicious, organically grown food. You can literally taste the
                                                                       love.

Manang
Manang is 3500 metres above sea level and lays on the
Northern side of the Annapurna range. This mountainous town
is simply stunning, with a 360-degree view of this extraordinary
mountain range. The trek to Manang is quite easy, with some
flat landscapes, idyllic country gardens, stones, flowers, valleys
and pine trees. Here you can take the opportunity to laze
about your days on rooftops, staring out at the remarkable
views or, if you are lucky, taking in the culture of the traditional
mountain pony races that occur in the valley at the bottom
of the town, approximately a ten minute walk away from the
town centre. Manang is the last place on the northern part of
the mountains where vehicles can pass. This means trekking
or pony riding is one of the only possible ways to reach the
Thorong la Pass through Manang. It is also the last place you
can stock up on cheap goods, with a large convenience store
that sells most everything you need, including cheap food and
chocolate. Probably the cheapest store on the entire trek! This
town had a Wild West vibe, while being relaxing and beautiful
with its cobblestone paths and houses.

                                                                       Thorong La Pass
                                                                       This is a must do if you wish to push yourself to do the
                                                                       hardcore trek. You need to be fit and be prepared for the
                                                                       altitude sickness. I experienced dizzy spells and headaches
                                                                       from Manang to Thorong La Pass despite taking medication.
                                                                       Going from 3500 meters to 5700 meters in two days is not
                                                                       recommended. However, the hike up the mountain is a test of
                                                                       your mettle, and reaching the summit is definitely one of the
                                                                       highlights of the Annapurna circuit. Reaching the pass from
                                                                       Thorong Pedi took six hours. The climb was steep and difficult,
                                                                       particularly so with the altitude issues arising. However, you
                                                                       can definitely celebrate a human achievement upon reaching
                                                                       the summit of the Annapurna Mountain range and climbing
                                                                       through the world’s highest mountain pass.

www.xianease.com                                                                                                                    35
Travel

Kagbeni
Kagbeni is famous for its dry canyons and huge river ways. It’s
86 kilometres south of Tibet. Reaching Kagbeni from Tibet in a
car is a possibility, if coming through China, though I believe
you need special permits. The beauty of Kagbeni lay in the
landscape. It is complete with arid enclosed river canyons, dirty
dusty valleys and magnificent browns in the landscape. The
river bed was filled with gushing water and beautiful stones,
rocks, boulders and fossilized mollusks. The valley had a strong
harsh wind, and the riverbed a fierce river. However, the dusty
beauty of this desert region really vivified my senses and was
such a juxtaposition to the Northern side of the Annapurna
range. It was stunning.

                                                                    Tatopani
                                                                    Tatopani has the most beautiful views of narrowly woven paths
                                                                    along green jagged mountain edges and the most famous
                                                                    hot springs on the circuit. Tatopani will offer you something
                                                                    deliciously relaxing and calm. It’s approximately 2600 metres
                                                                    above sea level and is beside a rumbling, tumbling, ferociously
                                                                    happy river. Here you can enjoy the delights of apple pies
                                                                    while taking in the breathtaking views of the mountains of
                                                                    Annapurna I, II, III, IV and Dhaulagiri while hearing the gushing
                                                                    of the river as it flows through the town.

  Getting to Nepal from Xi’an
  Tibetan Air has flights from Xi’an direct to Kathmandu for
  approximately 1500 RMB one-way. The flight takes four
  and a half hours and includes meals and you can take 23
  kilograms of luggage.

  From Kathmandu you will need to take a bus to Pokhara
  or Besisahar to begin trekking up the Annapurna range.
  These buses can be ordered through your guest houses in
  Kathmandu, for approximately 1000 Nepalese Rupees.

What Do I Need to Bring?
 Equipment for June - August trekking
· You will need a sturdy strong backpack. I ordered mine on Taobao. Make sure the pack
has a cushion protecting your shoulders and I would recommend a capacity of at least
70 litres.

36                                                                                                                         xianease
What you need:
· A thick down sleeping bag this can            · Two lightweight trekking t-shirt you
be rented from either Kathmandu or              can buy these in Kathmandu for 1500
Pokhara for as little as 150 rupees a day       rupees each
(I only used it on the top of the pass for a
total of three days, but it is a must have)· Two lightweight trekking shorts you
                                           can buy these in Kathmandu for 1500
· A thick down jacket. This can be rented rupees each
from Kathmandu or Pokhara for as little
as 150 rupees a day (if you are doing · Five pairs of thick trekking sock, which
Thorong La Pass you will be grateful for can also be purchased in Kathmandu
                                           · Stocking sockets to protect your feet
this jacket)

· Waterproof pants and jacket you from leeches. These are worn under your
can rent these or purchase them for regular socks to provide an extra layer
approximately 1500 rupees per item         of cushioning and make it difficult for
                                           leeches to get their nasty little suckers
· Hiking boots should be two sizes too into your feet
big because your feet will swell. I bought
the cheapest ones possible from a store · A drink bottle so that you can fill up on
in Besisahar, they were Goldstar brand water along the trek
and cost 2500 rupees

  Medicines:                                                                              Other Important
You are recommended to purchase all of
these things in Kathmandu
                                                                                          Things
· Sanitary pads these can be used for                                                    · A battery pack phone charger (most
all kinds of things but in particularly for                                              of the guest houses have power outages
wounds on your feet during the trek                                                      each day so this comes in handy to

· A bottle of dettol to soak your feet
                                                                                         charge your phone and camera and any
                                                                                         other small electronic devices)
after each day. It really made the biggest
difference to my feet which were red,                                                    · Duct tape (this can be used for all kinds
blistered and cut up from trekking.                                                      of things on your trek)

· Band-aids for all kinds of cuts and                                                    · Nepalese SIM card (if you lose your
wounds                                                                                   phone or if the power is out you will

· Diamox - Altitude sickness tablets I
                                                                                         need one of these)

took these as I began getting dizzy at                                                   · Night light/torch (If you plan on doing
2300 meters above sea level. I took them                                                 the Thorong La Pass you will be walking
at night and found they made me have                                                     in the dark on steep mountain cliffs)
a deep sleep.
                                                                                         · Map of the Annapurna circuit (this
· Panadol or Tylenol to help block out                                                   can be purchased in a bookstore in
the pain of the altitude sickness                                                        Kathmandu or Pokhara)

· Diarrhea tablets. I didn’t experience
any stomach issues, but there is the
possibility of falling ill and a preventative
measure is a must-have.

· Water purification tablets will come in
handy for those of you willing to fill your
bottles up at the local wells

www.xianease.com                                                                                                                 37
Community

 Travel Partners
Trekking for days on end is a very
personal experience. It is important to
go with someone you trust. You should
discuss and agree on your budgets and
the number of hours, days and types of
trek you would like to pursue. If you don’t
feel comfortable doing it by reading
your own map you can hire a guide to
accompany you. However, the circuit is
definitely easy enough to trek without
a guide or porter. The Nepali people are
very friendly and helpful when you get
stuck and need to know where to go and
there are signs along most of the trail.
                                                                                           Food
                                                                                          Trekking takes a lot out of you so expect
                                                                                          to eat up big. Some of the mountain
 Trekking Permits                               Money                                     towns offer an array of meals such as
                                                                                          Mexican burritos and lasagna, covered
You will need to purchase two separate         Nepali Rupees can easily be exchanged      in yak cheese. However, the majority of
permits. One is the TIMS Permit (Trekkers      with RMB at a money changer in             family guest houses mostly provide the
Information       Management        System     Kathmandu or Pokhara. The rate is 1600     traditional Nepalese food of Dahl Baht
booklet). This is your passport to trek. The   Nepali Rupees for 100 RMB (July 2019).     (a curry lentil set plate with rice and
other is the ACAP (Annapurna Sanctuary         Changing Chinese money anywhere            flat chapati bread) and Momos (Nepali
Permit). This piece of paper seemed to be      on the Annapurna circuit is impossible.    steamed dumplings). Much of the food
the most important one, providing vital        There are ATM machines located along       is vegetarian and almost everywhere
information to the police along the way.       some of the larger towns where money       it is grown locally and has the most
In most of the towns there is a police         can be withdrawn with your Chinese         impressive organic flavour and you
office where you need to go to check in        bank card, but only the Himalayan Bank     can literally taste the love and patience
your details. The two permits in total cost    and Bank Nabil allow you to access China   that went into making it. The food was
5000 Nepali rupees. You can ask your           Unionpay. I would advise you to prepare    definitely a highlight for me. On some
guest house in Kathmandu, Pokhara or           approximately 5000 rupees per day for      days the people would spend up to one
Besisahar where you can purchase these         accommodation costs and food. If you       and a half hours cooking the food, but it
permits. The office hours are from 8am         are taking a guide and porter you will     was this commitment and your hungry
until 4pm. You will need four passport         need more. The ATM machines will take      belly that made it taste even more
photos for all of these permits.               a fee of 500 rupees for each withdrawal    sumptuous.
                                               transaction that you do. It is advisable
                                               to have some US dollars on hand for
                                               emergency purposes. This currency is
 Visa                                          easily exchangeable along the mountain
                                               range.
The Nepalese visa is obtainable in the
Nepalese airport. It must be paid in US
dollars and costs US$25 for 30 days.
You simply fill out a form and scan your
passport in the airport.

                                                                                          Embrace your adventurous nature and
                                                                                          feed the soul of your inner-child. A trip
                                                                                          to this part of the world will awaken your
                                                                                          senses and improve your physique. A
                                                                                          must-go destination!

                                                                                             Sammy Pryse is a teacher at XLIS and
                                                                                             world traveler.

38                                                                                                                            xianease
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