Soul-Warming Chicken Soup Creamy Vegetable Soups How to Make Hearty Bean & Vegetable Soups
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ENJOY THESE RECIPES FROM
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Our Cooking Without Recipes articles feature ways
to customize recipes to your preferred tastes.
• Soul-Warming Chicken Soup
• Creamy Vegetable Soups
• How to Make Hearty Bean &
Vegetable Soups
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Fine Cooking
magazine.
COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
Soul-Warming
Chicken Soup
This comforting classic is easy to customize—just mix and match
ingredients to make the soup you crave. B Y T O N Y R O S E N F E L D
i’m lucky to have wonderful childhood memories remove it, shred the meat, and return it to the soup
of the chicken soup made by both of my Jewish later. Then, it’s simply a matter of adding your own
grandmothers. Once I got old enough to cook for a favorite ingredients, from spices, fresh herbs, and
living and travel a bit, I realized that lots of other vegetables to noodles, grains, and beans.
people think of chicken soup just as fondly, since it You can go traditional with classic chicken
holds a beloved place in almost every cuisine. Its noodle, or branch out to Tex-Mex chile-lime chicken
flavors and ingredients might vary, but its standing soup, or Asian chicken noodle soup with bok choy
as the most comforting of meals is universal. and shiitake (see page 76). Or invent your own
The great thing about chicken soup is that once version. No matter what flavors you choose, your
you learn the basic method, you can flavor it however soup will make a delicious one-pot meal for a chilly
you like. It starts with an easy, homemade broth— winter night. And just think—it might even create
just throw a chicken and some vegetables into a pot delicious memories for the soup-eaters in your
and let them simmer. Once the chicken is cooked, family, too.
70 FINE COOKING • DEC 2011/JAN 2012
Start by making a simple chicken broth, which gets intense flavor from a long, slow simmer. F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 71
COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
chicken soup
Homemade broth serves as the base for any style of chicken soup. Once that’s made, follow the
method and customize your soup by choosing ingredients from the different categories on the
following pages. The soup can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Serves 6 to 8
STEP 1
make a chicken broth
This broth is made from a whole chicken. Before you start cooking, be sure to remove
the chicken’s skin—you’ll get a less fatty broth that won’t need as much skimming. If
you’re pressed for time, you could skip making your own broth, but you won’t get the
same depth of flavor. To do this, go directly to Step 2 on the opposite page and use
store-bought broth and the meat from a rotisserie chicken.
1 3-lb. chicken a large rimmed baking sheet. Let cool
2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into for 10 minutes; meanwhile, continue
1-inch pieces simmering the broth, partially covered.
2 medium celery stalks, cut into 2-inch Using your fingers, pull the meat from
pieces the bones and shred it into bite-size
1 medium yellow onion (about 6 oz.), pieces; discard any gristle or fat. Set
cut into 1/2-inch wedges aside the shredded chicken while you
Kosher salt and freshly ground black finish the broth.
pepper
Return the carcass to the broth and
simmer, partially covered, until the
Using a small sharp knife and your
vegetables are completely soft and the
fingers, remove the skin from the
flavor has intensified, about 30 minutes
chicken and discard it.
more. If at any time the water level drops
Rinse the chicken well and put it in
below the solids, add water to cover and
a large (at least 8-quart), heavy-duty
return to a simmer.
pot or Dutch oven. Add enough cold
Remove the carcass from the broth
water to submerge the chicken (about
and discard. Strain the broth through a
5 quarts). Cover the pot, with the lid
fine sieve set over another pot or a bowl
slightly ajar. Bring to a boil over high heat
large enough to hold the broth. Gently
and then reduce the heat to maintain a
press on the solids with a large spoon to
very gentle simmer. Cook, occasionally
squeeze out any remaining broth. You
skimming off any foam that accumu-
will have about 3 quarts. (The broth can
lates on the surface, until foam no longer
be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen
rises, about 30 minutes.
for up to 3 months.)
Add the carrots, celery, onion, 11/2 Tbs.
salt, and 2 tsp. pepper and simmer until
the vegetables start to soften and the Create your own chicken soup
chicken is completely cooked through, using our interactive Recipe Maker
about 20 minutes. Using tongs and a at FineCooking.com/extras.
slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to
For the clearest broth,
remove the carcass
from the pot before
straining, and pour
slowly so any sediment
remains in the bottom
of the pot.
72 FINE COOKING • DEC 2011/JAN 2012 Photographs by Scott Phillips
No matter which aromatics
you choose, be sure to brown
them lightly to deepen their
flavor. Any spices or hardy
herbs also benefit from brief
cooking.
STEP 2
cook the Basic Aromatics Extra Aromatics (optional)
aromatics Choose up to three, for up to 4 cups total Choose up to three
Basic aromatics serve as the flavor foun-
dation for your soup. If you like, you can
also add extra aromatics, selecting ones
that complement the flavors of the soup
you’re making.
Carrot, Onion, shallot, or leek, Fresh chiles Lemongrass
1½ Tbs. olive oil or canola oil cut into ¼-inch dice cut into ¼-inch dice ( jalapeño, Anaheim, (1 or 2 stalks), trimmed,
or finely chopped poblano, Thai bird; cut into 4-inch pieces,
Kosher salt 1 or 2), cut into and smashed with the
thin disks side of a chef’s knife
Wash and thoroughly dry the broth pot.
Heat the oil in the pot over medium-high
heat until shimmering hot. Add your
choice of basic aromatics, extra aro-
matics, if using, and ½ Tbs. salt. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until the vegetables Celery, Fennel, Ginger Garlic
cut into ½-inch dice cut into ¼-inch dice (2-inch knob), (1 or 2 medium cloves),
are softened and lightly browned in peeled and minced
places, 4 to 6 minutes. Add your choice thinly sliced
of spices or hardy herbs, if using, and
cook, stirring, until they become fra-
grant, about 30 seconds.
Spices and Hardy Herbs (optional)
Choose one or two
STEP 3
simmer
Food styling by Mariana Velasquez
Add 3 quarts of the broth and bring to a
boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook, stir- Bay leaves Chili powder Ground coriander Cinnamon stick
ring, until the vegetables are completely (1 or 2) (up to 2 tsp.) (up to 1 tsp.) (1, about 3 inches)
tender and the aromatics have infused
the broth, 20 to 30 minutes. Fish out and
discard any large aromatics or spices.
Ground cumin Dried chipotle chile Fresh thyme Fresh rosemary
(up to 2 tsp.) (1) (up to 2 tsp. chopped) (up to 2 tsp. chopped)
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 73
COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
STEP 4
add starches and vegetables
Stir in the reserved shredded chicken and your choice of starches and vegetables.
Simmer, stirring occasionally, until all are tender and the flavors meld, 5 to 10 minutes.
Starches
Choose one or two
Potatoes Tiny pastas Canned beans
(red or yellow), peeled, (ditalini, acini de pepe, orzo), (cannellini, black, kidney,
cut into 1/2-inch dice, and cooked until barely tender pinto, garbanzo),
cooked until barely (up to 4 cups) rinsed well (up to 3 cups)
tender (up to 4 cups)
Noodles Rice Grains
(egg, udon, soba, (long-grain white or (barley, farro, bulgur,
ramen), cooked until brown), cooked until hominy), cooked until
barely tender and rinsed barely tender barely tender
(up to 5 cups) (up to 3 cups) (up to 3 cups)
Vegetables
Choose one or two
Spinach Napa cabbage, Escarole,
(up to 10 oz.), stemmed cored, cut into 1½-inch cored, cut into 1-inch
if large, and cut into pieces (up to 6 cups) pieces (up to 9 cups)
2-inch pieces
Swiss chard Baby bok choy Mushrooms
(up to ¾ lb.), stemmed (up to ½ lb.), thinly sliced (shiitake, oyster;
and cut into ½-inch up to 8 oz.), stemmed if
pieces necessary and thinly sliced
Starches (except for canned
beans) need to be pre-cooked,
or they’ll absorb too much
broth. Cook them until barely Corn kernels, Peas, Canned diced tomatoes,
tender, since they’ll continue fresh or thawed frozen fresh or thawed frozen drained (up to 1½ cups)
to simmer in the soup. (up to 1½ cups) (up to 1½ cups)
74 FINE COOKING • DEC 2011/JAN 2012 Fo r s o u r c e s , s e e W h e r e t o B u y I t
STEP 5
finish the soup
Stir in your choice of finishes, adding a little at a time and adjusting the flavor as you go.
Season with salt and pepper to taste. Ladle into bowls and garnish, if you like, before serving.
Finishes Garnishes (optional)
Choose up to four Choose up to two
Lemon or lime juice Soy sauce Sesame oil Crisp tortilla strips Crisp bacon,
(1 Tbs. at a time, (1 Tbs. at a time, (½ tsp. at a time, (small handful crumbled (about 1 Tbs.
up to 4 Tbs.) up to 3 Tbs.) up to 1 Tbs.) per serving) per serving)
Vinegar Heavy cream Fish sauce Scallions, Parmigiano-Reggiano,
(red or white wine, (2 Tbs. at a time, (1 tsp. at a time, thinly sliced (about freshly grated
sherry, cider, rice; 1 tsp. at up to 1/2 cup) up to 2 Tbs.) 1 Tbs. per serving) (about 1 Tbs. per serving)
a time, up to 2 Tbs.)
Delicate fresh herbs Hot sauce Sugar/brown sugar
(basil, cilantro, tarragon, (like Tabasco or (1 tsp. at a time, Classic Chicken Noodle Soup
parsley, dill, chives, mint), Sriracha; ½ tsp. up to 2 Tbs.) Aromatics: carrot, Vegetable: peas
thinly sliced or chopped at a time, up to 2 tsp.) onion, leek Finishes: lemon
(up to 1/4 cup total)
Herb: thyme juice, parsley
Starch: egg noodles
It’s a good idea to
include either vinegar
or lemon or lime juice in
your choice of finishes—
their acid adds bright-
ness and enhances the
flavor of any soup.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 75
Chicken soup can take almost any
direction—these are a few of my favorites.
Tex-Mex Chile-Lime
Chicken Soup
Aromatics: onion,
garlic, jalapeño
Spices: chili powder,
cumin
Chicken Soup
Starch: hominy with Barley,
Vegetables: corn, Mushrooms,
tomatoes and Greens
Finishes: cilantro, Aromatics: onion,
lime juice celery
Garnish: tortilla strips Herb: thyme
Starch: barley
Vegetables: Swiss
chard, shiitake and
oyster mushrooms
Finish: sherry vinegar
Chicken and Rice
Soup with Spinach, Garnish: Parmigiano
Lemon, and Dill
Aromatics: onion,
carrot, celery
Herb: bay leaf
Starch: white rice Chicken Noodle
Vegetable: spinach Soup with Baby Bok
Finishes: dill, lemon Choy and Shiitake
juice Aromatics: carrot,
Garnish: scallions ginger, Thai bird chiles
Starch: ramen noodles
Vegetables: baby bok
choy, shiitake mush-
rooms
Finishes: soy sauce,
Chicken Soup sesame oil, white
with White Beans, vinegar, brown sugar
Farro, and Escarole Garnish: scallions
Aromatics: fennel, leek
Herb: rosemary
Starches: cannellini
beans, farro
Vegetable: escarole
Finish: red wine vinegar
Garnish: Parmigiano
Chicken Corn
Chowder
Aromatics: onion,
chiles
Herb: thyme
Starch: potatoes
Vegetable: corn
Finish: heavy cream
Garnishes: scallions,
bacon
Tony Rosenfeld is a Fine Cooking contributing editor. He is the author of
150 Things to Make with Roast Chicken (And 50 Ways to Roast It) and
Sear, Sauce, and Serve: Mastering High-Heat, High-Flavor Cooking.
76 FINE COOKING • DEC 2011/JAN 2012
COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
One simple method,
endless variations.
BY SUSIE MIDDLE TON
MAKING SOUP is the
best kind of kitchen alchemy:
You start with a few humble
ingredients and wind up with a gem.
That’s why I love making these puréed
vegetable soups; the components and
technique are simple, but the result is a
silky, delicious soup that’s refined enough
for any elegant first course. • The tech-
nique is straightforward. First, cook some
aromatics (like carrots, onion, celery, garlic,
and leeks) to start building the soup’s flavor
base. Next, add your favorite vegetable plus
some liquid and simmer until tender. Finally, just
purée everything in a blender. You won’t believe
how easy it is to make something so lovely.
Creamy Vegetable Soups
62 FINE COOKING • FEB/MAR 2009 Photographs by Scott Phillips
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 63
COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
STEP 1
choose your ingredients
Read the method from start to finish and then choose and prep your ingredients.
All soups serve 8 as a starter.
STEP 2
cook the aromatics
In a 4- to 5-quart saucepan or Dutch oven, heat the cooking fat over Aromatics
medium-low heat. When hot, add the 11/4 cups aromatics and a pinch
Choose any combi
of kosher salt. Stir well, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stir-
nation of 2 to 5 from
ring occasionally, until the aromatics are softened, 8 to 10 minutes.
the list below for a
Stir in 1 tsp. kosher salt, as well as an optional spice, if using.
total of 11/4 cups.
• Onions, cut into
medium dice
• Leeks, thinly sliced
and washed
Cooking Fat • Shallots, finely
chopped
Use 1 or a combination • Carrots, peeled,
for a total of 2 Tbs. halved or quartered
lengthwise, and
• Unsalted butter thinly sliced
• Extra-virgin olive oil • Celery, halved
• Vegetable oil lengthwise and
thinly sliced (no
more than 1/4 cup)
• Fresh ginger, minced
(no more than 1 Tbs.)
• Garlic, minced (no
more than 2 tsp.)
Spices (optional)
These soups are delicious
without any embellishment, Good
but you can add a spice to
give your soup a global twist.
to Know
Choose 1 of the following. Aromatic vegeta
bles become the
• Curry powder, 11/2 tsp. • Mustard seed, 2 tsp. flavor foundation
• Crushed fennel seed, • Saffron threads, of your soup. The
1 tsp. big pinch, lightly crushed
best blend of aro
• Garam masala, 1 tsp. and mixed with some of
matics starts with
• Ground cumin plus ground the liquid
garlic and includes
coriander, 2 tsp. total • Smoked paprika, 1/2 to 1 tsp.
some onions,
leeks, or shallots.
From there, move
on to your other
choices, select
Build and save your own creamy soup recipes ing those that are
with our interactive feature at FineCooking.com.
most complemen
tary to your main
vegetable.
64 FINE COOKING • FEB/MAR 2009TOMATO-FENNEL
SOUP WITH ORANGE
Choose these:
• Onions, shallots, carrots,
celery, garlic
• Crushed fennel seeds
• Tomatoes
• Vegetable broth, orange juice
• Heavy cream, rice vinegar,
croutons
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 65CARROT-GINGER SOUP Choose these: • Leeks, onions, celery, garlic, ginger • Carrots • Vegetable broth, orange juice • Yogurt, lime, chives 66 MONTH/MONTH 2009
COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
STEP 3
simmer the vegetables
Add your choice of vegetables and liquids, stir well, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, uncovered, stirring
occasionally, until the vegetables are very tender and the soup is full-flavored, 7 to 20 minutes, depending on the vegetable.
Vegetables
Choose 1 or more of the following for a total weight of 11/2 lb.
prepped vegetables.
• Asparagus, bottom of stems • Cauliflower, trimmed, cored,
trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch and coarsely chopped
pieces • Mushrooms (combination
• Broccoli, bottom of stems of cremini or baby bella and
trimmed, florets coarsely white button), halved and
chopped, stems sliced very thinly sliced
thinly • Canned whole tomatoes
• Butternut squash, peeled, (two 28-oz. cans) drained and
seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch coarsely chopped or crushed
dice
• Carrots, peeled, cut in half or
quartered lengthwise if thick,
and sliced 1/4 inch thick
Liquids
Broth makes up the body of the soup, while liquids
like wine and juice add extra flavor.
Choose 1 of the Choose 1 of the
following for a total following (3 Tbs.).
of 5 cups liquid.
• White wine
• Lower-salt chicken • Dry vermouth
broth, 21/2 cups, plus • Dry sherry
21/2 cups water • Apple cider
• Vegetable broth, • Orange juice
preferably homemade
(see FineCooking.com
for a recipe), 5 cups
How Much Do I Buy?
When shopping for your • 21/4 lb. asparagus
main vegetable, you’ll • 13/4 lb. broccoli
need to buy extra to • 2 lb. butternut squash
account for the weight • 13/4 lb. carrots
you lose when you trim. • 2 lb. cauliflower
To yield 11/2 lb. trimmed • 11/2 lb. mushrooms
vegetables, start with:
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 67COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
STEP 4 Storing
purée Soups
Most of these
Take the pan off the heat and let the soup cool for
soups are best
5 minutes. Working in batches, purée the soup in a
eaten within a day,
blender (see Test Kitchen, page 83, for safety tips).
Wipe the pan clean and put the soup back in the pan. Acid as the vegetables
tend to separate
A bit of citrus juice or a dash from the liquids.
of vinegar will give your soup an Carrot, butternut
STEP 5 additional touch of brightness squash, and
finish and bring out the vegetable flavor.
Choose 1 of the following (up to
tomato soups can
last up to 2 days
Season the soup to taste with salt and pepper and 11/2 tsp.). in the refrigerator
add your choice of dairy, if using, and acid; start and up to a month
with 1/2 tsp. lemon or lime juice or vinegar, and add
• Fresh lemon or lime juice in the freezer; if
up to 11/2 tsp. as needed. Ladle into 8 soup bowls and
• Vinegar, such as red or white frozen, reheat
wine vinegar, cider vinegar,
sprinkle a garnish over each serving, if using. slowly and whisk
sherry vinegar, balsamic vinegar,
if separated.
or rice vinegar
Dairy (optional)
If you like, you can finish your
soup with some dairy (though
Garnishes (optional)
some vegetables, especially Add a finishing touch for extra
cauliflower, carrots, and butter flavor and texture. Choose 1 of
nut squash, make such silky the following.
purées on their own that I
sometimes leave the dairy out
• Crumbled cooked bacon or
pancetta, 2 tsp. per serving
completely). While cream is
nice, I often prefer the results
• Chopped fresh herbs
(basil, chives, cilantro, mint, or
I get with whole yogurt or
parsley), 1 to 2 tsp. per serving
buttermilk, since their slightly
tangy flavor brightens the
• Homemade croutons,
1 to 2 Tbs. per serving (see
soup. Choose 1 of the
recipe at FineCooking.com)
following (1/4 cup).
• Nuts (almonds, peanuts, pecans, pine nuts,
• Heavy cream or walnuts), toasted and finely chopped, 1 tsp. per serving
• Buttermilk • Flavored oil (your choice of nut, spiced, sesame, or truffle oil),
• Thick whole yogurt, 1/2 tsp. per serving
preferably Greek
More Soups to Make
Mix and match ASPARAGUS SOUP WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP WITH
ingredients LEEKS AND MUSTARD SEED GARAM MASALA, YOGURT, AND LIME
for a delicious
Choose these: Choose these:
soup your way.
Here are two
• leeks, garlic • leeks, shallots, celery, garlic
more ideas
• mustard seed • garam masala
we like.
• asparagus • butternut squash
• chicken broth, white wine • vegetable broth, apple cider
• cream, lemon juice, croutons • yogurt, lime juice, cilantro
Susie Middleton is Fine Cooking’s editor at large.
68 FINE COOKING • FEB/MAR 2009BROCCOLI SOUP WITH BACON
Choose these:
• Onions, leeks, garlic
• Broccoli
• Chicken broth, white wine or vermouth
• Cream, lemon juice, bacon
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 69cooking without recipes
How to
Make Hearty Bean &
Vegetable Soups
by M olly S tevens
E
very fall my soup pot gets a workout. Learn the best method for making
But of all the soups and stews I concoct
to keep my friends and family warm, deeply flavored winter soups with
everyone’s favorites are the hearty
bean and vegetable soups. Endlessly
your choice of ingredients
variable, this winning combination deliv-
ers delicious, nourishing soups that please
almost any appetite. And happily for me,
they’re easy on the cook, too. The straight-
forward method on pp. 75–77 shows you
how to make a satisfying bean soup using
ingredients you like. Beans’ gentle, earthy
character makes them a perfect backdrop
for a range of flavors, from bold and spicy
to rich and mellow. So by simply varying the
ingredients, you can create a winter’s worth
of comforting soups.
Another reason to add bean and vegeta-
ble soups to your repertoire is convenience.
Make a big pot on the weekend (they take
some time, but it’s mostly unattended sim-
mering), then refrigerate the leftovers and
reheat them for easy meals throughout the
week. Like many slow-cooked dishes, these
soups taste even better the next day or the
day after that. And you can easily freeze
them for longer storage.
The best soups start with dried beans
Certainly canned beans speed up the pro-
cess, but this is one of those instances
where the extra step of starting with dried
beans makes a big difference. First of all,
they yield better flavor and texture: Freshly
cooked beans are plumper, creamier, and
truer to their natural flavor than canned.
Dried beans also retain their shape better
and are less apt to turn mushy. Another ad-
vantage of cooking your own beans is that
you end up with a rich-tasting bean broth
Minestrone
that goes right back into the soup.
www.finecooking.com October/November 2007 73Soak the beans first. This allows them to
soften gently and plump up, shortening the
cooking time and helping the beans cook
evenly. Although many recipes call for soak-
ing beans overnight, four hours is plenty. I
often soak the beans in the morning of the
day I plan to make soup.
Next, cook the beans alone. Give the beans
a quick rinse, put them in a large pot with a
garlic clove and bay leaf for extra flavor, and
simmer gently in enough water to cover. I’ve
found that it’s best to add salt about three-
quarters of the way through simmering. This
is not so early as to slow down the cooking
(which salt is known to do), but not too late
to season the beans effectively. Instead of
adding vegetables to the simmering beans,
I prefer to cook the beans separately and
add them to the soup later. If you cook them
together, it’s easy for the vegetables to over-
cook before the beans are ready.
Choose any vegetables French farmers’ soup
and seasonings you like
It’s always a good idea to think of flavor affin-
ities before you start assembling ingredients.
If you’re leaning toward Mediterranean, you
might select fennel, rosemary, and garlic,
Classic combinations
while a Latin American-inspired soup could Try one of these traditional combos or create your own hearty soup
include cumin, coriander, and chiles (see following the steps starting on the next page.
some of my favorite combinations at right). MEXICAN Seasonings: thyme
I also like to keep things seasonal, relying BLACK BEAN SOUP Vegetables: carrots, celery root, and turnips
on the hearty vegetables available in fall and Beans: black beans Finishing touches: white-wine or
winter, such as cabbage, parsnips, carrots, Meat: chorizo or bacon Champagne vinegar, parsley, and
and cauliflower. Aromatics: onion and celery croutons
No matter what type of soup I make, Seasonings: garlic, jalapeño, cumin,
I find that a bit of cured or seasoned pork CABBAGE AND
and coriander WHITE BEAN SOUP
(such as bacon, pancetta, or sausage), while Vegetables: carrots and tomatoes
not absolutely necessary, adds depth and an Beans: cannellini, great northern,
Finishing touches: lime juice and
irresistibly savory edge to the soup. I cook or navy beans
fresh cilantro
it in a little olive oil to create a flavor base. Meat: fresh Italian sausage
Then I remove it, set it aside to add back MIDDLE-EASTERN Aromatics: onion and celery
later, and add the aromatics followed by the CHICKPEA SOUP Seasonings: rosemary and garlic
vegetables and broth. Beans: chickpeas Vegetables: cabbage and potatoes
Finish with a flourish. After you’ve added Meat: omit Finishing touches: parsley
the beans back to the soup pot and let every Aromatics: onions and celery
MINESTRONE
thing simmer together, you have a final Seasonings: garlic, cumin, coriander,
Beans: cranberry beans
opportunity to personalize and add flavor to and red pepper flakes
Meat: pancetta
your soup. Stir in some lemon juice, vinegar, Vegetables: potatoes, cauliflower,
Aromatics: onion and celery
or hot sauce for a splash of acidity or heat. and carrots
Seasonings: garlic, rosemary, thyme, red
For a burst of freshness and color, toss in a Finishing touches: lemon juice,
pepper flakes, and tomato paste
handful of chopped herbs. And if you like, parsley, and a drizzle of chile oil
Vegetables: chard or escarole, fennel,
finish each serving with a drizzle of good FRENCH FARMERS’ SOUP and tomatoes
olive oil or flavored oil, a handful of crou- Beans: flageolets or baby lima beans Finishing touches: basil, grated
tons, or even a sprinkling of grated cheese. Meat: bacon Parmigiano-Reggiano, and a drizzle
Aromatics: shallots and leeks of olive oil
74 F i n e C oo k i n g Photos: Scott PhillipsSix steps to a hearty bean & vegetable soup
Yields 9 to 10 cups; serves six.
What you’ll need
Read carefully through all the steps and
then choose and assemble the ingredients
1 Soak the beans
Sort through your beans, discarding any
2 Cook the beans
Drain and rinse the beans and transfer them to
for each step before you start cooking. little stones or clumps of dirt, and then give a 3- or 4-qt. saucepan. Add 1 medium
them a quick rinse. Transfer to a large bowl, garlic clove (smashed and peeled), 1 bay leaf,
8 oz. (11⁄4 cups) your choice of dried
add enough cold water to cover the beans and 6 cups of cold water. Partially cover to
beans
1 medium clove garlic by 3 inches, and soak for 4 to 12 hours. limit evaporation and simmer gently, stirring
1 bay leaf every 20 to 30 minutes, until the beans are
3 ⁄4 tsp. kosher salt; more as needed
tender and almost creamy inside, without
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil or unsalted
being mealy or mushy (see below for approxi-
butter
1⁄4 lb. bacon, pancetta, or sausage Dried bean mate cooking times). The beans’ cooking time
will vary depending on how long they’ve
(optional)
11⁄ 2 cups your choice of aromatics
choices
4 tsp. your choice of spices and herbs Choose one (11⁄4 cups; 8 oz.)
or other seasonings
1 Tbs. tomato paste (optional)
Baby lima beans
3 cups your choice of vegetables
5 to 6 cups homemade or store-bought Black beans (turtle beans)
low-salt chicken broth or homemade
Cannellini
vegetable broth
Freshly ground black pepper Chickpeas (garbanzo beans)
Your choice of finishing ingredients
Cranberry beans (borlotti or
(see step 6)
Roman beans)
Flageolets
Great northern beans
Kidney beans (red, pink, or white)
Quick-soak beans Navy beans
soaked and how old they are. The older the
Don’t have at least four hours Pinto beans
beans, the longer they take to cook. But the
to soak beans? You can Yellow-eye beans
longer you soak them, the shorter the cooking
quick-soak them. In a sauce-
time. So the safest way to determine when the
pan, add enough cold water
beans are done is to taste them as they cook.
to cover the beans by 2 inches,
Season with 3⁄4 tsp. kosher salt when the
bring quickly to a boil, remove
from the heat, and let soak for
Substituting beans are about three-quarters done. If at
one hour. The results tend to canned beans any time the liquid doesn’t cover the beans,
If you don’t have time to soak add 1 cup fresh water.
be less consistent than those
and cook the beans, you can Drain the beans, reserving the cooking
you’d get from a cold-water
use canned beans, though liquid, and discard the bay leaf (the garlic
soak, but it’s a good trick in
the flavor of your soup won’t clove can stay). If you cook the beans in
a pinch.
be as rich. You’ll need two advance, refrigerate the beans and the cook-
15-ounce cans to make the ing liquid separately until you make the soup
3 cups cooked beans needed (you can cook the beans one day ahead).
(you may have leftover beans). BEAN COOKING TIMES
Rinse and drain before using. (Times are approximate.)
Baby lima, flageolet, yellow-eye:
3⁄4 to 1 hour
Black, cannellini, cranberry, great
northern, kidney, navy, pinto:
1 to 11⁄ 2 hours
Chickpeas: 11⁄4 to 2 hours
www.finecooking.com October/November 2007 753 Create the flavor foundation
This important step consists of three and the meat begins to brown, 5 to Cook, stirring frequently, until they
By simply varying
the ingredients,
consecutive sub-steps that create 8 minutes. Pour the meat and fat into begin to soften but not brown,
the soup’s flavor base. a small strainer set over a bowl, and 4 to 6 minutes. you can create a
Heat 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil or set the meat aside. Spoon 2 Tbs. of Add seasonings
unsalted butter in a 4- to 5-qt. soup
pot or Dutch oven over medium heat.
fat back into the pot, and return it to
medium heat. If you’re not using any
(see choices below) winter’s worth of
Stir in your choice of seasonings
Add the meat
(optional; see choices below)
meat, skip to the aromatics.
Add aromatics
and cook until fragrant, 1 minute.
comforting soups.
To give the soup a more savory, meaty (see choices below)
flavor add some bacon (or pancetta) Add your choice of aromatics and
or fresh (or smoked) sausage. Cook, season with a pinch of kosher salt
stirring often, until the fat is rendered and freshly ground black pepper.
Meat choices Aromatic Seasoning choices
(optional) choices
HERBS & OTHER SPICES
Choose one (1⁄4 lb.) Choose at least two and up
SEASONINGS Choose up to three for
to four in any combination, Choose up to three for a total of 1 tsp., unless
Bacon or thinly sliced for a total of 11⁄ 2 cups a total of 1 Tbs., unless otherwise noted:
pancetta: cut into otherwise noted:
Crushed red pepper
1⁄ 2-inch pieces Celery: chopped
Dried herbes de flakes (no more
Bulk pancetta: cut into Leeks: chopped Provence (no more than 1⁄4 tsp.)
small dice Onions: chopped than 3⁄4 tsp.)
Ground coriander
Fresh Italian sausage or Shallots: chopped Fresh chiles: minced
Ground cumin
fresh chorizo: out of its Fresh garlic: minced
casing and crumbled Ground fennel seed
Fresh ginger: minced
Smoked or cured sausage Tomato paste Fresh marjoram: chopped
Hot or sweet paprika
(smoked or plain)
(such as andouille,
Some of the pink and red beans
chorizo, or kielbasa): Fresh rosemary: chopped
can turn a muddy shade when
cut into 1⁄ 2-inch pieces Fresh sage: chopped
cooked, but you can add 1 Tbs.
tomato paste along with the Fresh thyme: chopped
seasonings (at right) to deepen
the shade and make it more
appealing. Tomato paste also
adds a concentrated sweetness
welcome in any bean soup, not
just those made with dark beans.
76 F i n e C oo k i n g4 Add vegetables 5 Add beans
& more liquid
& broth
Add the vegetables, stirring to incorpo- Add the beans and then add 3 cups of
rate with the seasonings and aromatics, chicken or vegetable broth and 1 cup of the
and then add 2 cups of the broth, partially reserved bean-cooking liquid. If you have
cover, and simmer until the vegetables are less than 1 cup bean liquid left from cooking
just barely tender, 10 to 20 minutes. the beans or if you’re adding the juice from
canned tomatoes, adjust the broth for a total
of 4 cups liquid.
Vegetable Return the cooked meat to the pot, if
choices using. Stir to combine and simmer, partially
Choose up to three for a total covered, for 10 minutes to meld the flavors.
of 3 cups
Canned diced tomatoes: drained
(save the juice to add to the broth)
6 Give the soup a finishing touch
Carrots: peeled and cut into
1⁄4-inch-thick half moons
Cauliflower: cut into 1⁄ 2-inch florets
Celery root: peeled and cut into Taste the soup and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Finish your
1⁄ 2-inch dice
soup with an acid, if it needs brightening, a sprinkle of fresh herbs, and a
Escarole: coarsely chopped final topping once the soup is ladled into bowls. You may want to reserve
Fennel: coarsely chopped some of the herbs to sprinkle on top of each serving as well. The soup will
keep in the fridge for three or four days, tightly covered. Or you can freeze
Green cabbage: thinly sliced
it for up to three months. (If making ahead, wait to add the finishing touches
Parsnips: peeled and cut into
1⁄ 2-inch dice
until ready to serve.)
Red or white potatoes: peeled
and cut into 1⁄ 2-inch dice Finishing choices (optional)
Swiss chard: stems chopped and
leaves sliced ACIDS (optional) TOPPINGS
Turnips: peeled and cut into Choose one (1 to 2 tsp.): A drizzle of good-quality
1⁄ 2-inch dice
Fresh lemon or lime juice olive oil, toasted sesame
oil, chile oil, or herb-infused
Hot sauce: just a splash
oil per serving
Red-wine, white-wine, sherry,
A small handful of croutons
or Champagne vinegar
Broth choices per serving
Choose one (5 to 6 cups, added FRESH HERBS 1 Tbs. freshly grated
in two steps) Choose up to two for Parmigiano-Reggiano
a total of 1⁄ 3 cup: per serving
Homemade or store-bought Basil: chopped
low-salt chicken broth Chives: thinly sliced
Homemade vegetable broth Cilantro: chopped
Parsley: chopped
Molly Stevens, a contributing editor to Fine Cooking, is an award-winning
cookbook author and cooking teacher. ◆
www.finecooking.com October/November 2007 77There’s so much to love
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