SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2016 - #opentheworld kathmandu.com.au kathmandu.co.nz kathmandu.co.uk

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SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2016 - #opentheworld kathmandu.com.au kathmandu.co.nz kathmandu.co.uk
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2016
SUSTAINABILITY
REPORT

#opentheworld
kathmandu.com.au
kathmandu.co.nz
kathmandu.co.uk
SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2016 - #opentheworld kathmandu.com.au kathmandu.co.nz kathmandu.co.uk
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CONTENTS
HIGHLIGHTS 2016............................................................. 2 OUR FOOTPRINT
                                                                                       Measurable impact                                                                    We believe in the power
CHAIRMAN AND CEO'S REPORTS......................................4                      Goals to reduce our footprint.......................................... 30
                                                                                       Green building
                                                                                                                                                                            of travel and adventure
OUR CORE VALUES............................................................6           Christchurch support office gets five stars.........................31
                                                                                       Shifting building culture.................................................. 32
                                                                                                                                                                            to change the world.
OUR STORY                                                                              Waste survey
We are Kathmandu                                                                       Measuring is the first step towards change...................... 33
Our core values inform our actions.................................... 7
                                                                                       End–of–life recycling
                                                                                       Clothing donation programme
OUR JOURNEY                                                                            keeps gear out of landfill................................................. 34
Sustain the Dream
Our plan and goals...........................................................8         Measuring carbon
                                                                                       Reducing and offsetting to bring emissions down............. 36
Self–assessment
Our commitment to the Higg Index...................................9
                                                                                       OUR COMMUNITY
                                                                                       Investing in people
OUR SUPPLIERS                                                                          Global change through individual actions........................ 38
Our Code of Conduct
What we expect from suppliers........................................10                Gear for good
                                                                                       Supporting Red Cross......................................................40
Working together
How industry partners are helping us evolve.....................12                     Living the dream
                                                                                       Outward Bound scholarships........................................... 42
Audit fatigue
Helping factories focus on improvement...........................13                    Campground enhancement
                                                                                       Giving back to a favourite destination............................. 43

OUR PRODUCTS                                                                           Getting dirty
Material priorities                                                                    Conservation work in the field......................................... 45
Working towards a resilient industry.................................16                Enabling adventure
Responsible down                                                                       Our customers tell us how to invest.................................46
Rising to the challenge.....................................................18         Nepal
Sustainable cotton                                                                     Investing in the region that inspired our brand................. 48
Heading towards 100%................................................... 20
Recycled polyester                                                                     OUR TEAM
Solving two problems in one............................................ 24             People and passion
                                                                                       Making a more engaging workplace................................ 52
Responsible wool
Looking after animals and the land................................. 26                 Values in action
                                                                                       Outward Bound leadership courses.................................. 56
Safety
A focus on children’s products......................................... 28
                                                                                       GRI INDEX...................................................................... 58

                                                                                       APPENDIX...................................................................... 62

About this report
This is our fifth annual sustainability report. It covers the period from 1 August 2015 to 31 July 2016. The report is prepared in accordance with the core requirements
of the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) G4 reporting framework. It accompanies our Kathmandu Annual Report 2016, available online at kathmanduholdings.com,
which includes our full financial results. Data in this report covers Kathmandu’s operations, including our stores, distribution centres and support offices in New
Zealand, Australia and the United Kingdom. If any issues are material beyond these boundaries, we have reported on these issues and our approach to managing
them, but we may not have complete data available. Financial figures are expressed in New Zealand dollars unless otherwise specified. We’d love to hear your
feedback on the report. Feel free to send comments and questions to our team at sustainability@kathmandu.com.au
SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2016 - #opentheworld kathmandu.com.au kathmandu.co.nz kathmandu.co.uk
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HIGHLIGHTS 2016
                               ACHIEVED    100
                                             %                               RANKED          WON AN
                               RDS CERTIFICATION
                               across our entire
                               insulation range
                                                   +                         #4
                                                         in the Textile Exchange Report’s
                                                                                             AWARD WITH
                                                                                             THE AUSTRALIAN
                                                                                             PACKAGING COVENANT
                                                                                                                        Moved into our new
                                                                                                                         5 Green Star rated
                               from Winter 2016         top global users of certified down                             office in Christchurch

                                                        UPCYCLED 1.2 MILLION PLASTIC         SUPPORTED OUR FIRST
                                                       BOTTLES TO THE REPREVE RANGE          CARBON OFFSET                IMPLEMENTED OUR
                               ADVISORY MEMBER
                                                                                                                          GARMENT REUSE
                               for the new RWS
                                                                                             PROJECT                      PROGRAMME

     INCREASED USE OF SUSTAINABLE COTTON
     FROM 38 TO 59 across our cotton range
                               %         %                                                           COMMITTED TO USING THE HIGG INDEX

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                               THE CHAIRMAN                                                                                           THE CEO

                               Each year, sustainability becomes more engrained within our business.                                  The Kathmandu brand exists to inspire travel and adventure. Our business
                               We’ve made progress this year. We achieved 100% Responsible Down                                       is about creating value for our customers, our shareholders and our team
                               Standard (RDS) certification for all our down products. We opened a                                    members. We create value by operating a responsible business with
                               5 Green Star Rated support office in Christchurch and helped develop                                   sustainability at the core of our business strategy and embedded into
                               a Green Star rating tool specific for retailers.                                                       our core values.
                               But our biggest impacts will be in the opportunities we’ve helped create                               Looking back on a year of solid financial performance, we recognise that our
                               for our whole industry – using collaboration to have a multiplier effect.                              sustainability commitments have also helped drive operational efficiency.
                               By collaborating with the Green Building Council of Australia, we’ve helped                            This year, I was pleased to be directly involved in our materiality assessment,
                               develop a retail–specific Green Star Rating system. This will make it easier                           which gave me greater insight into the business’s social and environmental
                               for retailers to adopt green building standards, which in turn puts pressure                           impacts.
                               on the building industry to develop less wasteful systems and show more
                                                                                                                                      Our stakeholders’ feedback outlined human rights as our number one material
                               transparency in the products they source. The built environment contributes
                                                                                                                                      issue, and materials stewardship and waste management were also top priority
                               more than a third of all greenhouse gas emissions, so even small steps here
                                                                                                                                      material issues.
                               can make a big difference at scale.
                                                                                                                                      This feedback informs our sustainability strategy. This year, we continued to
                               Scale is a key factor for meaningful change. The Better Cotton Initiative
                                                                                                                                      integrate the use of the Higg Index, which is an industry based, best practice
                               now accounts for almost 12% of global cotton production. That means
                                                                                                                                      framework for assessing our work in this area.
                               1.6 million cotton farmers around the world are using less pesticides and
                               getting better yields. Kathmandu became the first Australasian member                                  Completing the Higg Index modules for each area of our business gives us a
‘It’s exciting to              of this initiative in 2015 and it will be a big part of achieving our goal of
                               100% sustainable cotton by 2020.
                                                                                                                ‘As a design-led      score that we can benchmark against an industry standard, helping us to
                                                                                                                                      understand where we are and how we can improve. We are committed to
be in this part of             The Higg Index is another great example of industry collaboration.
                                                                                                                business, designing   collaborating across industry to drive sustainability outcomes.
our sustainability             This sustainability self–assessment tool helps brands track their progress       great, innovative,    As a design-led business, designing great, innovative, distinctive and sustainable

journey, where                 and benchmark themselves against industry standards. It helps us ask
                               the right questions so we can focus on the biggest problems.                     distinctive and       quality products and solutions remains our core strategy.
                                                                                                                                      Sustainability informs how we design, make and innovate our products, so that
being an industry              By thinking beyond our doors and working together with our industry,             sustainable quality   our customers realise their full potential in the great outdoors.
leader is not                  we have a chance to solve problems that extend right through our
                               supply chains. It’s exciting to be in this part of our sustainability journey,
                                                                                                                products and          More than a retail business, Kathmandu is a great brand. We will continue to
about winning,                 where being an industry leader is not about winning, but about finding           solutions remains     strengthen our engagement with customers, particularly with our 1.6 million
                                                                                                                                      Summit Club members. Sustainability is a key part of this conversation.
                               a better path.
but about finding                                                                                               our core strategy.’   In the year ahead, we will celebrate our 30th year of designing great outdoor
a better path.’                David Kirk
                               Chairman
                                                                                                                                      equipment. I look forward to delivering further value to our stakeholders in
                                                                                                                                      this area.

                                                                                                                                      Xavier Simonet
                                                                                                                                      Chief Executive Officer

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                        INTEGRITY                        RESOURCEFULNESS
             We are ethical, honest and always               We celebrate ingenuity and
             strive to do right by our customers           inventiveness with a 'hands–on'
                       and each other.                      approach to get the job done.

                LOVE OF TRAVEL
                AND ADVENTURE
       This is our unique and addictive passion.
                                                           ENVIRONMENTAL
                                                               ACTION
                                                         We not only believe in protecting the
                                                                                                          OUR STORY
          It's our business, our life and is the      outdoors, we act. Together, customers and
             heart and soul of Kathmandu.              team members are a force committed to
                                                       minimising our environmental footprint.
                                                                                                           We were born in New Zealand – a breathtaking
                                                                                                             country where isolation breeds innovation
                  OPENNESS AND                              PASSION AND                                             and the hunger to explore.

                   DIRECTNESS                              DETERMINATION
                                                                                                               For 30 years, we have designed our gear to endure
                                                                                                             the rugged landscapes of our homeland and to outfit
                                                                                                                      the adventurous spirit of our people.
         We act with transparency to create              We love what we do, we believe in
                                                                                                            With Kiwi ingenuity, and an open mind, we continuously
    a productive, naturally efficient working life,   what we create, and we go the extra mile
                                                                                                             adapt our gear to endure different weather conditions,
           with no time for bureaucracy.                 for our customers and our people.                 diverse terrains, and the ever–changing needs of travellers.
                                                                                                                 We act with people and the planet in mind –
                                                                                                            from the creative minds of our designers, to the careful
                                                                                                             hands of our suppliers, to the backs of our customers
                                                                                                                             all around the world.
                                                                                                           We believe that adventure begins when you pack your bag.
                                                                                                                              We are Kathmandu.

    OUR CORE VALUES                                                                                  161 TOTAL STORES                     TOTAL SALES:$425.5m (+4.0%)
                                                                                                                                          PROFIT: $33.5m
                                                                                                                                                                                       KMD.NZ
                                                                                                  47 NEW ZEALAND STORES                                                                KMD.AX
                                                                                                                                             Kathmandu is listed on both the Australian (ASX)
                                                                                                                                                 and New Zealand (NZX) stock exchanges.
                                                                                                  114 AUSTRALIAN STORES                  More information about our performance and governance
                                                                                                                                           structure is available in our company annual report.

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OUR JOURNEY

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                                       OUR JOURNEY
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              HIGG INDEX
                                                                                                                            OUR ENVIRONMENTAL & SOCIAL IMPACTS
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              WHAT IS THE
                                                                                                                            MORE                                                                                                              HIGG INDEX?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              The Higg Index is a ground–breaking

                                                                                                                            How important is this to our stakeholders?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              self–assessment tool designed by
                                                                                                                                                                                              2                                               the Sustainable Apparel Coalition
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              in collaboration with the Outdoor
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Industry Association. It empowers
                                                                                                                                                                                                           1                                  brands to measure their environmental
                                                                                                                                                                                4
                                       Sustainability                                                                                                                                                                                         and social impacts and identify areas
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              for improvement.

                                       is in our DNA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              The Higg Index is made up of
                                                                                                                                                                                         6                3                                   several online tools or ‘modules’.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              By entering data about their business
                                                                                                                                                                                     7                                                        impact areas, members generate
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              performance scores. The SAC, which
      AT KATHMANDU,                    It’s built into our stores, designed        Informing our plan                                                                      8                                                                  represent nearly 40 per cent of the
                                       into our products, lived by our staff                                                                                                                          5                                       global apparel and footwear supply
SUSTAINABILITY IS NOT                  and worn proudly on the backs of
                                                                                   To find out where we need to act,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              chain, aggregates anonymous scores
                                                                                   we talk to the people who our brand
A DEPARTMENT – IT’S A                  our customers.                              touches – customers, suppliers,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              to create an industry benchmark –
  WAY OF DOING THINGS                  We’re driven by a love of the outdoors      partners, our team and investors.                                                            10                                                            an incentive for brands to continue
                                       and an awareness that our exquisite         Since 2011, we have consulted                                                                                  9                                           to raise the sustainability bar.
                                       world is finite. True sustainability puts   those people to find out what they                                                                                                                         As a member of the OIA, we have
                                       back as much as it takes out. We know       care about most. This is called a        LESS                                                                                                              committed to using the Higg Index
                                       we’re a long way from that, but at          materiality assessment and it helps                                                   LESS            How important is this to us?             MORE        and to helping collectively revise
                                       least we’re not in it alone. Global         us to refine our priorities.                                                                                                                               and improve our score. By working
                                       problems need global solutions and                                                                                                                                                                     as an industry, the SAC’s aim is
                                                                                   We have ongoing conversations with
                                                                                                                            1. Human rights
      FOUR GOALS
                                       our industry is coming together in                                                                                                                                                                     to make the Higg Index the
                                                                                   our customers in–store, online and
                                       exciting new ways. We’ve found a                                                                                                                                                                       most comprehensive and robust
                                                                                   through social media. We use regular
     WE HAVE SET                       place at the table.                         surveys to talk to our customers and
                                                                                   our team. Our conversations with
                                                                                                                            2. Materials stewardship                                                                                          sustainability assessment tool
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              possible – one that propels users
                                       Sustain the Dream                                                                                                                                                                                      beyond compliance and towards
                                                                                   suppliers happen throughout the year.
                                                                                                                            3. Packaging, waste and recycling                                                                                 innovation and impact.
                          FOR 2017     Our Sustain the Dream Plan drives           We are in contact with shareholders
                Use 2.5 million        how we integrate sustainability             via investor briefings. In addition to                                                                                                                     Higg touches on every aspect of
             plastic bottles for       across the business. At Kathmandu,          this regular communication, we sat       4. Sustainability leadership                                                                                      our business and the scores show
            our Repreve range          sustainability is not a department –        down this year with 17 internal and                                                                                                                        us clearly the areas where we need
                                       it’s a way of doing things. And it          18 external stakeholders.                5. Employee engagement                                                                                            improvement. But it’s not about
                                       only works when every department                                                                                                                                                                       scores as much as it is about
                                                                                   We asked them how important
                           BY 2018     is busy making a difference every
                                                                                   certain issues were to them and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              making steady improvement.
                                       day. This year, we updated our                                                       6. Industry collaboration
                        Zero waste                                                 asked them for feedback about                                                                                                                              This tool is core to our strategy,
                         to landfill   Sustain the Dream Plan for financial
                                                                                   how we’re doing overall.                                                                                                                                   and in the future will drive our
                                       years 2016–2018.                                                                     7. Supply chain transparency                                                                                      policies, plans and our materiality
                                                                                   From these interviews, we developed
                                       We set new strategies for addressing                                                                                                                                                                   assessments.
                           BY 2020     human rights in our supply chain,
                                                                                   a list of our top 10 most ‘material’
                                                                                                                            8. Carbon footprint
             100% sustainable                                                      issues. Human rights was number
                                       product stewardship, minimising our
                       cotton                                                      one, which reminds us that
                                       environmental footprint, community
                                                                                   sustainability is as much about people   9. Community engagement
                                       engagement on a local and global
                                                                                   as it is the planet. Of course, the
                                       scale, developing our team and
    CO2                    BY 2020     growing our brand. Our sustainability
                                                                                   two are intrinsically connected.
                                                                                                                            10. Product quality and safety
              20% reduction of                                                     When we mapped all the issues
                                       governance team called the Dream
               carbon emission                                                     according to how they link in the
                                       Team drives the sustainability plan
                                                                                   minds of stakeholders, they formed
                                       and reports to our executives.
                                                                                   an interconnected web. This tells us     Interconnectedness is also a mark                                             Overlapping our materiality
                                                                                   that these issues need to be managed     of how complex these issues have                                              assessment and our Higg Index
                                                                                   together, rather than in isolation.      become. To help break down these                                              scores give us a clear picture of
                                                                                                                            complexities, we have committed                                               what we need to improve on.
                                                                                                                            to using the self–assessment tool,
                                                                                                                                                                                                          See page 62 and 63 for more
                                                                                                                            the Higg Index, to map out our
                                                                                                                                                                                                          information on where our impacts
                                                                                                                            environmental and social impacts
                                                                                                                                                                                                          occur and how we engage with
                                                                                                                            in greater detail.
                                                                                                                                                                                                          our stakeholders.

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OUR SUPPLIERS

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                                OUR SUPPLIERS
                                                                                                                                                                        WHERE OUR GEAR IS MADE

                                Many hands of
                                the supply chain
              OUR CODE OF       Our products go through many                 Our Code of Conduct addresses the
                                hands on the way to our customers.           potential operational risks for suppliers
    CONDUCT DEFINES HOW                                                                                                                                                                                                   85 %     8%       7%
                                It’s important to us that all of these       involving child labour, collective
           WE EXPECT OUR        people are treated well. That means          bargaining, freedom of association
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     CHINA
      MANUFACTURERS TO          they earn a fair wage and work in            and forced or compulsory labour.
        LOOK AFTER THEIR        safe and healthy workplaces.                                                                                                                                                             VIETNAM
                                                                             Our social compliance programme
     STAFF TO EARN A FAIR       Around 240 million workers rely on           audits aim to make sure these                                                                                                                        OTHERS
                                the garment industry for employment.         standards are upheld. This programme                                                                    New Zealand, Taiwan, India, Indonesia, Israel, Guatemala
         WAGE IN HEALTHY
                                Factories are a valuable source of jobs      so far has focused physical audits on
             WORKPLACES         and can help improve livelihoods of          manufacturers of Kathmandu branded
                                workers and their families, but poor         product with whom we spend more                                                                  OUR SUPPLY CHAIN
                                working conditions remain a problem          than US$50,000 each year with. All of
                                across the sector. The industry’s            these suppliers are audited at least
                                challenges are vast and complex.             once over a three year cycle. In 2016,      TIER 4              TIER 3                 TIER 2          TIER 1
                                Some workers don’t even know their           we audited 28 factories and completed
                                rights or how to achieve them.               four unannounced audits. Suppliers
                                                                             with whom we spend less are reviewed
                                In an ideal world, governments would
                                                                             with a ‘desktop audit’. We recognise
                                take the responsibility to protect their
                                                                             that in the future, we must find a
                                citizens, but the reality of our global
                                                                             solution to make sure all workers in our
                                supply chain is that sometimes these
                                                                             supply chain are protected – regardless        RAW           RAW MATERIALS         MATERIAL        MANUFACTURING             DISTRIBUTION            RETAIL
                                laws are not adequate or not enforced.                                                                                                                                                                           CUSTOMER
                                                                             of the value of our spend.                   MATERIAL         PROCESSING          PRODUCTION         PARTNERS                  CENTRES              NETWORK
                                This is why we have a responsibility
                                to make sure we’re clear about the           We do our best to audit the companies
                                standards we expect and we have              that fall under the US$50,000 spend
                                a system in place to make sure that          threshold when our own auditors are         Global challenges                             These practices don’t comply with          We believe progress in this area
                                standard is met.                             in the vicinity. We also continued a        Our most common findings continue             the law and they don’t comply with         will only be made through multi–
                                                                             project looking for ways for our agents     to be excessive working hours in Asia         the compensation requirements              stakeholder initiatives and industry
                                                                             or buying houses to provide input.                                                        in our code.                               collaboration.
                                Code of Conduct                                                                          and payment of social benefits in
                                                                             And we perform desktop assessments          China. These are global challenges.           Our approach is to engage in               One opportunity for collaboration last
                                We’ve developed a Workplace Code
                                                                             of suppliers who do not receive full                                                      continuous improvement. To reduce          year was the Australian Fashion Forum,
                                of Conduct, which is based on the                                                        In China, employers are required to
                                                                             audits. All of our new suppliers are                                                      excessive working hours, we propose        which was first held in November 2015
                                International Labour Organisation’s                                                      contribute to six categories of social
                                                                             required to follow our social and                                                         prioritised steps to our suppliers. This   to promote dialogue on traceability
                                standards and on internationally                                                         benefits. These help pay for things like
                                                                             environmental criteria – this year,                                                       stepped methodology is intended to         within the fashion supply chain.
                                accepted good labour practices.                                                          pensions, medical care and maternity
                                                                             eight new suppliers and 32 new                                                            minimise negative impact on workers        This forum highlighted the living wage
                                The code spells out what we expect                                                       leave. It’s a complex system that is
                                                                             factories were briefed into our Code                                                      who, in most cases, actually want the      and other topics, and we were pleased
                                from our suppliers. It defines working                                                   not particularly well enforced and is
                                                                             of Conduct.                                                                               extra wages that comes with overtime.      to be invited to be part of a panel to
                                hours, safe working conditions and                                                       made more difficult by large numbers
                                explains what sufficient compensation        Our programme continues to evolve           of migrant workers coming in from                                                        open discussion.
                                looks like. It also includes environmental   as we navigate our way through              rural areas.                                  Living wage                                The full Kathmandu Supplier Factory
                                standards we expect suppliers to meet.       best practice and methodologies.                                                          We have followed the guidance of           Workplace Code of Conduct is
                                All of our manufacturing partners must       It remains a fine balance – asking          We have found some employers
                                                                                                                                                                       the Fair Labor Association (FLA) to        available online at:
                                sign up to our Code of Conduct before        suppliers to improve working conditions     don’t enforce workers to pay what
                                                                                                                                                                       better understand how a living wage        www.kathmandu.co.nz/get–to–
                                we’ll do business with them.                 but also trying to understand the           they should. And workers often avoid
                                                                                                                                                                       can be achieved. We look forward to        know–us/corporate–responsibility
                                                                             complex regulations and cultures            paying their contribution in order
                                                                                                                                                                       continued participation in the Fair
                                                                             they operate in.                            to have more money in hand.
                                                                                                                                                                       Compensation Work Plan, a project
                                                                                                                                                                       which aims to address this issue.

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OUR SUPPLIERS

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Working together                                                                                                                                         Fighting
                                                                                                                                                         audit fatigue
Industry partners are helping
to evolve our social compliance             ‘We applaud the progress that                                                         HELPING FACTORIES TO   Factory audits are the tool we use
                                                                                                                                                         to make sure suppliers are meeting
                                                                                                                                                                                                   Better Work Programme
                                                                                                                                        FOCUS MORE ON                                              Last year, we also replaced one
programme.                                  has been made. We hope this                                                              IMPROVEMENT AND
                                                                                                                                                         our Code of Conduct to provide safe
                                                                                                                                                         working conditions and fair pay to
                                                                                                                                                                                                   audit with a Better Work Programme
We are working with industry
partners to identify gaps in our            report will help the fashion industry                                                  LESS ON PAPERWORK     workers. But when every company
                                                                                                                                                                                                   assessment report for a factory in
                                                                                                                                                                                                   Vietnam. The Better Work Programme
social compliance programme.
Using feedback from the Fair Labor
                                            contribute to a world free from                                                                              sends auditors, it puts strain on the
                                                                                                                                                         factories and actually begins to
                                                                                                                                                                                                   requires commitment from the factory

Association (FLA), Baptist World            poverty and exploitation.’                                                                                   hamper progress. To address this,
                                                                                                                                                                                                   and from the company. If all the
                                                                                                                                                                                                   factory’s customers accept the
Aid and the Higg Index will give us                                                                                                                      the Sustainable Apparel Coalition         Better Work report, they will have
confidence that we’re focusing on the       Australian Fashion Report 2016                                                                               announced the Social and Labour           one consistent and continuous
right areas as we prioritise our next                                                                                                                    Convergence Project in 2015, calling      improvement plan as opposed to
steps. In the short term, we’re using                                                                                                                    for collaboration to create a standard    multiple versions. This will help them
this feedback to improve. For example,      In April 2015, the FLA shadowed a           It scored 87 apparel companies on                                assessment tool.                          to focus more on improving standards
we’ll be looking at our internal policy     Kathmandu staff auditor in our first        their labour rights management                                                                             and less on completing multiple reports.
                                                                                                                                                         We’ll be watching this project with
and process to formally document            FLA field observation. The observer         system. The average score was C+.
                                                                                                                                                         interest. Our own work to help ease
who takes responsibility for social         was looking at the effectiveness of our     Six companies received an A grade
                                                                                                                                                         audit fatigue includes occasionally
compliance within our business – from       programme across many areas including       and nine companies received an
                                                                                                                                                         accepting paper audits when they
the supplier management officer and         content, knowledge and ability. Overall,    F grade. Kathmandu was graded B–.
                                                                                                                                                         meet our criteria. Last year, we
right up to the CFO, CEO and the            we were found to be ‘satisfactory’ which    In real terms, this was the same as
                                                                                                                                                         reviewed 21 audit documents and
Board of Directors. In the long term,       means assessors are doing a good job        the previous year’s score but because
                                                                                                                                                         15 of them met our criteria, which
we’ll be focusing on making sure            and fulfilling requirements. Some areas     a new grading tool was adopted,
                                                                                                                                                         relieved 10 physical audits during
everyone in our supply chain is paid        came back ‘average’ or ‘insufficient’,      it made it more difficult to achieve
                                                                                                                                                         the year.
a living wage.                              which shows we still have a lot to learn.   higher grades.
                                            The field observation highlighted our        ‘We value this assessment of ourselves
                                            dependency on translators when using        and other brands, and the opportunity
                                            our own auditors. Our own Kathmandu         it provides to examine where our
                                            staff auditors are valuable because they    programme falls short to identify areas
                                            give us more than a black and white         of improvement – namely auditing and                             ‘We recognise that the proliferation
                                            report, but not speaking the local
                                            language can be a barrier, especially
                                                                                        worker empowerment,’ says
                                                                                        Kathmandu Supplier Management                                    of differing codes, audits, protocols
Working towards
FLA accreditation
                                            when conducting staff interviews.
                                            We’re trying to balance these factors by
                                                                                        Officer, Donna Didham.                                           and approaches are hampering the
We are working toward FLA accreditation     looking at options – either finding staff                                                                    improvement of social and labour
of our social compliance programme.
This will give us confidence that our
                                            auditors who speak the local language
                                            or using a mix of staff and third–party
                                                                                                                                                         performance within global supply
programme is robust.                        audit services.                             HIGG Index                                                       chains. We believe that there is
In 2014, Kathmandu became the first
Australasian company to join the FLA.
                                            Kathmandu reports can be read on
                                            the FLA Site at www.fairlabor.org/
                                                                                        Our business is now committed
                                                                                        to using the ground–breaking
                                                                                                                                                         both a need and an opportunity
We completed a self–assessment in 2015      affiliate/kathmandu                         self–assessment tool, the HIGG                                   for collaboration.’
and the feedback from that helped us                                                    Index, to measure our performance                                Sustainable Apparel Coalition statement
identify areas to focus on. In late 2015,                                               on human rights in the supply                                    21 October 2015
the FLA undertook Social Compliance                                                     chain. We’ve assessed our work
Initiatives at three of our factories.                                                  using the detailed questionnaire
These assessments go much deeper                                                        in the HIGG’s ‘Social/Labor
than a standard audit and typically                                                     Management Performance’
involve two auditors up to three days.                                                  module. This scoring criteria will
The results help us to assess our                                                       reinforce the most important
programme. For example, we realised                                                     areas for us to focus on in the
that subtle language in our corrective                                                  2017 financial year.
action plans could do more to               Baptist World Aid
encourage suppliers to find their own       Kathmandu participated in the
solutions to problems. We hope that         Australian Fashion Report for the
these factory–led solutions will do more    third year. The report is researched
to address the root problems and will       and written by international aid
be more earnestly adopted.                  and development organisation,
                                            Baptist World Aid.

12 Sustainability Report 2016                                                                                                                                                                                      Sustainability Report 2016 13
SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2016 - #opentheworld kathmandu.com.au kathmandu.co.nz kathmandu.co.uk
OUR SUPPLIERS

   N AV I G AT I O N

                                                                                                                               CASE STUDY

OUR AUDIT                                                                                                                      FAILED: CORRECTIVE ACTION                                                           CORRECTIVE
PROGRAMME                                                                                                                      PLAN FOCUSES ON SOLUTIONS                                                           ACTION PLANS
Our audit programme
includes inspections and
staff interviews.                                                                                                              An un–announced audit of one of our suppliers this year found                        OPENED 27
                                                                                                                               non–compliance across most sections of the audit report.
IT AIMS TO:                                                                                                                                                                                                         CLOSED 16
         Pre-audit and inspect all
    1    new potentially significant                                                                                                                                                                               We aim to make sure all our
         Tier 1 Suppliers’ factories                                                                                           The ‘failed’ count was high and           The factory used a fingerprint            Corrective Action Plans are:
         before placing orders.                                                                                                included incomplete working hour          system to record working hours,
                                                                                                                               records, fire drills not performed        but with a high turnover of new
         Perform a full audit then                                                                                             frequently enough, emergency exit         workers, they were not keeping up                   SPECIFIC
    2    subsequently a re-audit                                                                                               routes not clearly marked, first aid      with adding new workers into the
         on a three year cycle of                                                                                              kits not fully stocked, collective        system. Understanding this difficulty,
         existing significant Tier 1                                                                                           bargaining agreement not clearly          we agreed the factory should have
         Suppliers’ factories unless                                                                                           documented and a lack of procedure        a three day grace period where new                  MEASURABLE
         an acceptable accreditation                                                                                           for chemical storage. The factory         workers’ hours would be recorded
         or copy audit is provided.                                                                                            didn’t seem to have a good grasp of       manually. We worked with them to
                                                                                                                               the requirements, so the first step was   make their manual recording system                  ATTAINABLE
         Focus re-audits on                                                                                                    to find someone to take responsibility    more robust. This solved the problem
    3    verifying remediation                                                                                                 for educating and training the team.      for us and for them. A re–audit will
         has taken place.                                                                                                      The factory nominated a senior            validate the effectiveness of the
                                                                                                                               manager to take action.                   improved manual system.                             RELEVANT
         Focus inspections on visual                                                                                           One corrective action plan addressed      Because the factory was willing to
    4    health and safety.                                                                                                    the issue of incomplete working           improve and agreed to reasonable
                                                                                                                               hours records.                            timeframes, we will continue to                     TIME BOUND
                                                                                                                                                                         work with them.
Re–audits and inspections                  Their critical failures included: working   Pre–assessment for
We’ve designed our audit programme         hours, non–payment of minimum               new factories
to be flexible. We commit to one           wage, insufficient overtime wage,
                                                                                       This year, we developed a process to
full–audit or one re–audit of all          attempts to hide the kitchen and                                                    CASE STUDY
                                                                                       pre–assess potential new significant
                                           a blocked emergency exit.
‘significant’ suppliers in each three
year cycle. If the full audit shows no     A flexible programme also allows
                                                                                       suppliers’ factories. The aim was to
                                                                                       flag any concerns about workers’
                                                                                                                               GOOD ON PAPER:                                                                      EXCESSIVE
problems in the documentation, we
might concentrate the re–audit on
                                           us to be alert for changes, like new
                                           management or new legislation, and
                                                                                       rights before placing any orders.
                                                                                       Our auditor’s feedback on this
                                                                                                                               THE VALUE OF BEING THERE                                                            WORKING HOURS
worker interviews to make sure the         adjust our audit focus accordingly.         pre–assessment process has said that                                                                                        Limiting excessive working hours is one
workers’ comments back up this                                                         this should not be done in place of a   In 2015, we implemented a procedure for pre–assessing                               of the biggest challenges for suppliers.
great on–paper performance.                Our re–audit is mainly a review of                                                  new factories prior to commencing business.                                         When we find breaches here, we always
                                                                                       full audit. So we are looking at how
                                           previous audit findings and aims                                                                                                                                        try to understand the root cause and
We terminated our relationship with                                                    we can improve by performing full                                                                                           work together for improvement.
                                           to validate evidence which has
one supplier as they had subsequently                                                  audits on all new suppliers up–front.
                                           been provided through photos or
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   HERE’S WHAT WE EXPECT FACTORIES
failed their 2015 and 2016 audits.         documentation. Last year, we used           This range of audit activity means                                                                                          TO PROVIDE FOR EMPLOYEES:
We had put in place a remediation          more third-party services so that           we do not always ‘score’ our audits.    We start with documentation and           The factory looked good on paper.
plan for them since 2013, therefore        we could interview workers directly         Instead, we focus on improvement by                                                                                               One day off in seven consecutive
the latest critical failures were not
                                                                                                                               then follow up with an inspection.        Our desktop audit and a copy of an          1   working days is upheld.
                                           in their own language, rather than          issuing corrective action plans and     This has been invaluable. In our 2016     audit gave us confidence. However,
acceptable. The supplier received social   with translators.                           following these up. We identified 13                                                                                              Overtime will not exceed three
                                                                                                                               financial year, we visited 14 factories   on–site, it was a different story.
compliance training in 2014, in place                                                  ‘failed’ assessments (37%) as having    and found six of them did not meet        It didn’t take long for our auditor
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     2   hours after an eight hour
                                           Worker interviews are important                                                                                                                                               working day.
of a re–audit to enable improvement.                                                   actual and potential negative human     our Code of Social Responsibility         to establish that the factory would
Whilst the supplier had remained           for validating what is reported in                                                                                                                                            Overtime of one to two hours is
willing to improve, their audit history    the documentation. We ask specifically
                                                                                       rights impacts. One supplier was        requirements. We proceeded to do          not meet many of our standards.             3   maximised after an eight hour
                                                                                       dropped as a result.                    business with two of the remaining        We did not proceed with an order.               working day.
was poor.                                  about how workers are involved
                                           in decision making and if there                                                     factories. The others were not used
                                           are effective grievance procedures                                                  for other reasons.
                                                                                                                                                                         We learned from this process that           4   A 60 hour week is not the norm.
                                                                                                                                                                         copy audits are not always reliable –
                                           in place.                                                                           One factory that did not meet our         and we need to bear this in mind as             A working week shall not
                                                                                                                               requirements was a manufacturer           we look for solutions to audit fatigue.     5   exceed 48 hours.
                                                                                                                               in China. Even though it was classed
                                                                                                                               as ‘insignificant’, with annual orders                                                6   Full compliance with country law.
                                                                                                                               expected to be worth only US$10,000,
                                                                                                                               we took the opportunity to inspect                                                  In order to focus on those factories
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   where this is the biggest problem,
                                                                                                                               when we were in the area visiting                                                   we classify our findings as minor, major,
                                                                                                                               other factories.                                                                    or critical. A critical classification will
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   be assigned where (1)(2)(4) are found.

14 Sustainability Report 2016                                                                                                                                                                                                     Sustainability Report 2016 15
SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2016 - #opentheworld kathmandu.com.au kathmandu.co.nz kathmandu.co.uk
OUR PRODUCTS

   N AV I G AT I O N

                                OUR PRODUCTS

                                Towards a resilient
                                textile industry
    IF YOU DON’T KNOW           Whether the raw materials are               When we look at our products
                                farmed or extracted, textile production     across their entire lifecycle, up to
  WHERE YOU’RE GOING,           depends on natural resources – and          85% of the impact comes from
YOU WON’T KNOW WHEN             these are limited. Textile production       what they’re made of, so materials
        YOU GET THERE           also has socio–economic impacts on          are an important part of our
                                the people and communities where            sustainability strategy.
                                they are sourced and processed. To be
                                                                            We’re working to use more and
                                truly sustainable, the textile industry
                                needs to move to a circular model
                                                                            more fabrics that are recycled or
                                                                            sustainably produced, and reducing
                                                                                                                                       OUR PRIORITY OF
                                that rebuilds the earth’s natural capital
                                and recognises how all these things
                                                                            our use of resource–heavy materials
                                                                            like conventional cotton and
                                                                                                                                  PREFERRED MATERIALS
                                are connected.
                                                                            virgin polyester.
                                Kathmandu Textile R&D and
                                                                            We’ve made a list of our preferred
                                Responsible Materials Manager
                                                                            fibres and materials and ranked
                                Manu Rastogi says, ‘Population
                                                                            them in order of priority.
                                growth, competition for land and                                                                        1. RESPONSIBLE DOWN
                                limited water and fossil fuel resources     ‘It’s a fluid list,’ says Manu. ‘It changes
                                demands a new way of looking at             as global trends and organisational
                                fibres. If we don’t make changes,           priorities change, and as our business
                                we will not have enough resources           evolves. By diversifying into a portfolio
                                on earth for both food and clothing         of preferred fibres and materials,
                                in the future.’                             we minimise our risk and align our                         2. RECYCLED POLYESTER
                                                                            materials strategy to global trends.’

                                ‘ We will not have                                                                                                            PRIORITIES
                                 enough resources                                                                                     3. SUSTAINABLE COTTON

                                 for both food
                                 and clothing.’
                                                                                                                          4. BLUESIGN APPROVED FABRICS/TRIMS
                                Manu Rastogi,
                                Textile R&D and Responsible
                                 Materials Manager

                                                                                                                                        5. RESPONSIBLE WOOL

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OUR PRODUCTS

   N AV I G AT I O N

                                    Rising to
                                                                                                                        CASE STUDY

                                                                                                                        A LOOK DOWN THE SUPPLY CHAIN
                                    the challenge                                                                                                        Responsible Down Standard certification is an important part of
                                                                                                                                                         our work towards making sure animals are treated ethically. But we
                                                                                                                                                         also want to connect directly with the farms. We’ve visited and talked
                                                                                                                                                         about animal welfare with every one of our down processors in China
        BIG STRIDES IN              Down jackets are a big part of our        Every time a product with RDS down
                                                                                                                                                         and Taiwan.
                                    business. So making sure the down         changes ownership, a certificate
    RESPONSIBLE DOWN                and feathers in them come from            (called a transaction certificate)                                         In October 2015, Textile R&D and Responsible Materials Manager
SOURCING HAVE EARNED                well–treated animals is important         is required, to track the material                                         Manu Rastogi travelled to Lu’an, China to investigate the supply
US GLOBAL RECOGNITION               to us – and to our customers.             from the source to the final product.
                                                                                                                                                         chain of our high–end 800 fill power goose down. He visited farms,
                                                                              More than 150 million birds are now
                                    With the release of our Winter 2016
                                                                              under farm certification to the RDS.
                                                                                                                                                         slaughterhouses, agents and processors to better understand the
                                    range, we used 100% RDS certified                                                                                    real–life challenges they face.
                                    down across our entire insulation         Four Paws, an international animal
                                    range. We can trace the origin of         welfare advocate, launched the
                                    our down from purchase order to           Cruelty Free Down Challenge in 2014.
                                    sewing factory and right through          Four Paws developed a series of
                                    to the farm level.                        steps, represented by five levels         I took a train from Shanghai
                                                                              that manufacturers could take to          to Lu’an, Anhui, China to visit our
                                    There are lots of links in the supply
                                                                              make sure there is no live-plucking       white geese farms, where the 800
                                    chain – down processors, agents,
                                                                              or force–feeding in their supply chain.   fill power white goose down used in
                                    slaughterhouses, down farms.
                                                                              Plotting these levels on a mountain,      the XT Ultralight Down Jacket and
                                    For one organisation to monitor all
                                                                              Four Paws challenged outdoor              Vest comes from.
                                    of these is a huge task. That’s where
                                                                              manufacturers in a ‘race to the top’.
                                    the Responsible Down Standard                                                       In this region, the birds are mostly
                                    comes in. Set up by global non–profit,    In 2015, Kathmandu took up the            owned by families and sold to many
                                    the Textile Exchange, RDS is part of      challenge. We started climbing the        different small slaughterhouses in
                                    their vision to create a global textile   mountain but Four Paws ranked us          the region.
                                    industry that protects and restores       almost at the bottom. In 2016, we
                                                                              have reached the highest level and are    In most villages, the birds spend
                                    the environment and enhances lives.
                                                                              ranked number four, behind Fjällräven,    their days roaming around. They
                                    RDS makes sure that the down                                                        spend most of their time near the
                                                                              Patagonia and Mountain Equipment.
                                    in a product does not come from                                                     waterways that often run through
                                    birds that have been live–plucked or      The Textile Exchange has also ranked      the middle of the village.
                                    force–fed, and that their welfare has     Kathmandu at number four of
                                                                              89 participants among its Top 5           The animals had free access to food
                                    been protected from the time they
                                                                              Users of Certified Down in its latest     and water, lots of space to move
                                    were hatchlings to when they are
                                                                              2016 Preferred Fiber and Materials        around and a sheltered barn or
                                    slaughtered. Independent, professional
                                                                              Market Report.                            enclosure to spend the night in.
                                    certification bodies inspect each part
                                    of the supply chain: farms, agents,                                                 After the farm visit, we went to
                                                                              Kathmandu Textile R&D and                                                          I think we need more pressure and         It is difficult to explain to the farmers
                                    slaughterhouses, down processors,                                                   the slaughterhouse that these
                                                                              Responsible Materials Manager                                                      involvement from the meat industry        and slaughterhouses the importance
                                    and sewing factories.                                                               geese are normally transported to.
                                                                              Manu Rastogi says, ‘We're incredibly                                               and other major users of down –           of animal welfare and the need for
                                                                              proud of what we’ve achieved in just      These slaughterhouses slaughter the
                                                                                                                        birds and deliver the meat to local      from the bedding, furniture and           higher levels of record keeping.
                                                                              two years. Other brands at this level                                              hospitality industries.
                                                                              have been on the journey for seven        markets, while the down and feather                                                It’s not that these farms or
                                                                              or eight years.’                          material is usually dried in the sun     This was a very insightful journey that   slaughterhouses are live–plucking
                                                                                                                        and then packed into bags for sale.      highlighted some of the challenges that   or force–feeding. The challenge is to
                                                                                                                        As a vegetarian, this was a difficult    Kathmandu and the wider outdoor           convince them that the extra work
                                                                                                                        part of the trip for me, but goose       industry are also facing.                 and record keeping is necessary.
2016            100% RDS ACHIEVED                                                                                       is a very common meal in this part
                                                                                                                        of the world. In fact, close to 90%
                                                                                                                                                                 At the farm level, the highest grade
                                                                                                                                                                 of education was just 6th grade
                                                                                                                        of the value of a bird is in the meat,   while at the slaughterhouses, it was
                                                                                                                        and, at best, 10% of the bird’s
2015 RESPONSIBLE DOWN STANDARD ADOPTED
                                                                                                                                                                 12th grade. They don’t possess any
                                                                                                                        value is in the feather and down.        computer skills whatsoever. Excel and
                                                                                                                        This means there is not a lot of         other spreadsheet tools are completely
                                                                                                                        financial motivation for many of         foreign to them.

2014 DOWN POLICY PUT IN PLACE
                                                                                                                        the farmers and slaughterhouses
                                                                                                                        to do the extra work required for
                                                                                                                        a down standard certification.

OUR DOWN JOURNEY

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OUR PRODUCTS

   N AV I G AT I O N

                                            Heading                                                                             ‘We used to spray
                                                                                                                                with pesticides that
                                            towards 100%                                                                        killed even the snakes.
 A MIX OF SUSTAINABLE                       Cotton is a renewable natural             The textile industry is undergoing
                                                                                                                                We reduced our pesticide
 COTTON SOURCES WILL
                                            resource, but only if we manage
                                            it responsibly.
                                                                                      a major reform this decade. This is
                                                                                      good news. The race is on for different
                                                                                                                                use, increased our
REPLACE CONVENTIONAL
       COTTON BY 2020
                                            We’re on a path to a more circular
                                                                                      systems to meet consumers’ and
                                                                                      manufacturers’ desires to have more
                                                                                                                                profits and improved
                                            materials system – one that replaces
                                            the natural capital it removes. This
                                            path is not paved with conventional
                                                                                      ecologically and socially sustainable
                                                                                      management systems in place.              our health.’
                                            cotton, which takes out huge amounts      We’ve decided to combine three            Drissa Coulibaly,
                                            of water and puts back huge amounts       sustainable cotton initiatives – BCI      BCI Farmer, Mali
                                            of chemicals.                             (Better Cotton Initiative), organic and
                                                                                      Fairtrade – to build a flexible fabric
                                            Our goal is to phase out conventional
                                                                                      sourcing strategy that moves us away
                                            cotton completely by 2020. Despite a
                                                                                      from conventional cotton.
                                            dip last year, we’re firmly on track to
                                            get there.’                               This strategy makes good sense.
                                                                                      Not only does it secure for us a
                                            ‘We care about promoting and
                                                                                      long–term supply of sustainable raw
                                            protecting workers’ rights throughout
             BREAKDOWN OF                   our supply chain, and improving
                                                                                      material, it also allows us to become
              SUSTAINABLE                                                             a market leader in Australasia.
                                            working conditions,’ says Textile R&D
2016            COTTON
                 100 %
                         RDS ACHIEVED
                                            and Responsible Materials Manager
                                            Manu Rastogi.
                                                                                      ‘The mix of BCI, organic and Fairtrade
                                                                                      cotton in our portfolio gives us the
                                                                                      opportunity to create an organic,
                                         ‘We also care about sustainability
                                                                                      Fairtrade product range for our highly
2015
                                         and protecting the outdoor
                                                                                      responsible consumers, who are
                     5% FAIRTRADE
                 RESPONSIBLE  DOWN STANDARD      ADOPTED
                                         environment   we love to play in.
                                                                                      willing to pay a higher price, and also
                                         As we use cotton in a range of our
                                                                                      take responsibility for bulk cotton
                          21% BCI        products, it’s important the cotton
                                                                                      production via the Better Cotton
2014                33POLICY
                 DOWN  %
                                         we use is environmentally–friendly
                               PUT IN PLACE
                         ORGANIC         and ethically produced.’
                                                                                      Initiative. This means Kathmandu can
                                                                                      improve its social and environmental
                                                                                      performance and can still meet the
                                                                                      demands and expectations of its
OUR DOWN JOURNEY                                                                      customers,’ Manu says.

                                                                                                                   2020
2016 59% SUSTAINABLE COTTON                                                                                          100%
                                                                                                                SUSTAINABLE
                                                                                                                    COTTON

2015             38% SUSTAINABLE COTTON

2014 59% SUSTAINABLE COTTON

OUR COTTON JOURNEY
                                                                                                                                                           Suzanne Lee, Fairtrade International

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OUR PRODUCTS

   N AV I G AT I O N

                                   A better way
                                                                                                                       CASE STUDY

                                                                                                                       THE POWER
    THE BETTER COTTON              There are lots of sustainable cotton       BCI’s reports show farmers in            OF A SINGLE
  INITIATIVE IS SCALING
                                   standards out there. And they’re all
                                   aiming to shift cotton production
                                                                              India have raised their yields by
                                                                              11% while cutting synthetic pesticides
                                                                                                                       T–SHIRT
      UP TO MAKE A BIG             to be more environmentally and             by 20%. These results really are
DIFFERENCE FOR PEOPLE              socially responsible.                      better – better for farmers, better      Summit Club member Tricia
       AND THE PLANET              Kathmandu chose to work with the
                                                                              for the environment.                     Cutforth was named 2015
                                   Better Cotton Initiative because it’s      The initiative aims to have 5 million    Fairtrade Supporter of the
                                   the fastest growing standard by far.       farmers producing 8.2 million metric     Year for her moves to make
                                   It might not be as rigorous as organic     tonnes of Better Cotton by 2020.         Whangarei a Fairtrade
                                   and Fairtrade standards, but it is a       That’s around 30% of global cotton       District. Tricia travelled to
                                   very realistic first step for farmers to   production. Organic cotton, by           India to see Fairtrade cotton
                                   take towards a more sustainable            comparison, makes up around 1%           supply chains in action.
                                   cotton production.                         of global cotton production.
                                   The Better Cotton Initiative came          For some farmers, BCI is just the
                                   out of a ‘round table’ led by the          first step towards achieving organic
                                   World Wildlife Foundation back in          or Fairtrade certification. The system   Tricia took with her several Kathmandu
                                   2005. The goal was to find more            has also been designed to work           Fairtrade certified cotton T–shirts,
                                   sustainable solutions for farmers,         the other way – so that organic or       which are supplied by the Pratibha–
                                   for the environment and for the            Fairtrade farmers can also qualify       Vasudha cotton project in the Madhya
                                   future of the sector.                      as Better Cotton farmers.                Pradesh region of central India.
                                                                                                                       Pratibha supplies all of Kathmandu’s
                                   The programme began implementation         Kathmandu became the first               Fairtrade tees.
                                   in 2010. By 2015, BCI had reached          Australasian member of the Better
                                   1.6 million cotton farmers across          Cotton Initiative in March 2015.         ‘My journey involved tracing
                                   21 countries in five continents.           BCI will be an important part of         the T–shirt back to its source and
                                   BCI cotton was grown on 3.4 million        our plan to have 100% sustainable        witnessing the processes that
                                   hectares of land.                          cotton by 2020.                          go into making each garment,’
                                                                                                                       Tricia explains. ‘Ultimately, it was
                                                                                                                       the people I met along the cotton
                                                                                                                       supply chain that will resonate
                                   ‘We are building                                                                    in my memory.’

                                   the momentum we                                                                     These people include Rakesh
                                                                                                                       Agrahai, general manager of
                                   need to transform                                                                   Pratibha–Vasudha, who explained
                                   the market.’                                                                        how farmers are encouraged to
                                                                                                                       use natural waste products, like cow
                                   Alan McClay,                                                                        dung and compost to feed cotton
                                   BCI Chief Executive Officer                                                         crops. Pratibha–Vasudha trains
                                                                                                                       farmers on organic practices.
                                                                                                                                                                  ‘My visit
                                                                                                                       Tricia also visited the local school and
                                                                                                                       a sewing project aimed at empowering       unquestionably
                                                                                                                       women in self–employment, both of
                                                                                                                       which are supported by Fairtrade
                                                                                                                                                                  deepened my
                                                                                                                       Premium investments.                       commitment to
                                                                                                                       ‘Every time I pull on my Kathmandu         the cause and
BCI BY THE NUMBERS 2015                                                                                                Fairtrade certified organic cotton
                                                                                                                       T–shirt, I think of the farmers who        opened my eyes to
                                                                                                                                                                  the power of buying
1.6 MILLION
                                                                                                                       tended the crops, the women who
                                                                 11.9%                                                 harvested the cotton, and the workers
                                                                                                                       who sorted the cotton to be milled         a single T–shirt.’
FARMERS                                                          of global cotton
                                                                 production
                                                                                      FARMERS’
                                                                                      YIELDS UP
                                                                                                                       before it was processed and sewn to
                                                                                                                       become the garments we wear today
                                                                                                                       in New Zealand,’ Tricia says.
                                                                                                                                                                  Tricia Cutforth,
                                                                                                                                                                  2015 Fairtrade Supporter of the Year

                                                                                                                       ‘Through Fairtrade, consumers can

23   %                          3.4 MILLION                                           PESTICIDE
                                                                                                                       support these farmers and workers
                                                                                                                       to become more valued members of
                                                                                      USE DOWN
                                HECTARES
                                                                                                                       the supply chain. It just shows how
increase                                                                                                               powerful a single Fairtrade certified
                                                                                                                       cotton T–shirt can be.’                                  Suzanne Lee, Fairtrade International

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OUR PRODUCTS

   N AV I G AT I O N

                                Solving two
                                                                                                                                                                                            RECYCLED BOTTLES
                                                                                                                                                                                        ARE COLLECTED AND FLAKED

                                                                                                                                                                                                           1
                                problems in one                                                                                            THE
 HOW RECYCLED FABRIC
CAN MEET THE WORLD’S
                                Global demand for polyester outstripped cotton to become the number one fibre
                                in the early 2000s and continues to rise. There is now twice as much demand for                            REPREVE
                                                                                                                                           PROCESS
                                polyester compared with cotton.
     GROWING DEMAND
       FOR POLYESTER
                                70

                                60       GLOBAL FIBRE DEMAND
                                         (million tonnes)
                                50

                                40
                                                                                                                                                4
                                                                                                                                                                17                                                                                                    2

                                30                                                                                                                17 BOTTLES MAKES                                                                    BOTTLE FLAKES ARE FORMED
                                                                                                                                                   ONE BACKPACK                                                                          INTO REPREVE CHIPS
                                20

                                10      COTTON

                                        POLYESTER
                                 0
                                     1980           1990            2000           2010           2020            2030

                                With limited fossil fuels available to       Last year, we set a goal to recycle
                                                                                                                                                                                                           3
                                feed this demand, and a mounting             one million bottles. We beat our                                                                          REPREVE CHIPS ARE EXTRUDED
                                mountain of post–consumer plastic            target by 20%. That means 42,000                                                                              INTO REPREVE YARN
                                waste, recycling is the obvious answer.      litres of oil didn’t go into our garments.
                                                                             The amount of greenhouse gases
                                Polyester is Kathmandu’s number
                                                                             saved was about the same as what
                                one fibre in terms of use and so we
                                are working to shift our supply from
                                                                             you’d release if you drove a family              NUMBER OF PLASTIC BOTTLES RECYCLED                                                                   THIS HAS HELPED SAVE
                                                                             sedan around the earth five times.
                                virgin polyester to recycled solutions.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Energy2 equivalent of
                                                                             Next year, our goal is more than                             2016 target: 1 million
                                Repreve is a recycled polyester that
                                not only meets demand – it also fixes
                                                                             double – we’re aiming to re–use                                                                                                       42,000L of petrol
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 3
                                                                             2.5 million plastic bottles in our                                                                                                    enough to drive a car on every road4
                                a problem. Polyethylene terephthalate
                                (PET) plastic (marked with a #1 on
                                                                             2017 financial year.
                                                                                                                                                                 2016 ACTUAL                                       in New Zealand over four times

                                                                                                                                                                1.2M
                                plastic bottles) is the same material        We can help to grow the raw
                                as polyester. Unifi, the makers of           resource by encouraging more                                                                                                          Equivalent
                                Repreve, have developed a process            recycling. Right now, only 32%                                                                                                        Greenhouse gases2
                                to turn bottle flakes into fibres, which
                                can be made into everything from
                                                                             of plastic bottles are recycled
                                                                             in the US (48% in Western Europe
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   emitted from driving around
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   the earth5 five times
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           CO2
                                backpacks (approximately 17 bottles)         and 83% in China).
                                to fleece jackets (15 bottles) to T–shirts
                                (6 bottles).
                                                                                                                                 PLASTIC BOTTLES RECYCLED                                         1
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  As much
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Carbon
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  as sequestered by
                                                                                                                                        2017 target: 2.5 million                                                  416 acres of forest

                                                                                                                          1. These are conservative estimates for 500ml water bottles. Carbonated drink bottles are heavier. 2. Energy and GHG savings data provided by Unifi, Inc. from Unifi
                                                                                                                          product–specific LCIs and other published LCI data; equivalencies are based on US EPA Greenhouse Gas Equivalencies Calculator. 3. From USA – EPA data based on an
                                                                                                                          average passenger vehicle. 4. The total length of New Zealand roads is 94,000km. 5. The mean equatorial diameter of earth is 12,756km. 6. A conversion on the EPA
                                                                                                                          site for CO2 sequester by pine trees was unavailable. Instead, it’s based on ‘US forest’.

24 Sustainability Report 2016                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Sustainability Report 2016 25
OUR PRODUCTS

      

                         Responsible wool
                                                                                                                       CASE STUDY

                                                                                                                       PUT TO THE TEST
                         means looking after                                                                           Ultralight waterproof fabrics hold great promise for sports where weight
                                                                                                                       matters – like hiking or trail running – but are they tough enough?

                         the animals and the land
Wool is a fantastic renewable           Preserving land health means using      Last year, Kathmandu initiated a       This is what Technical Development        ‘Their tiny packed size and weight        ‘I was expecting the sleeves to become
material. It naturally resists smelly   progressive land management             pilot RWS programme. We visited        Manager Anneliese Carlson wanted          mean that I almost always have had        ribbons but they were surprisingly
microbes and regulates temperature.     methods to protect soil health,         suppliers and began working with       to know. She asked Outward Bound          one on me, for those just–in–case         robust with no ripping, and after a few
It’s repeating renewable, but like      biodiversity and native species.        our supply chain to get them ready     instructor Dave Ryan to put it to         times while instructing or missioning.’   goes, only a couple of pin–prick holes
any natural resource, it’s only                                                 for the launch of a RWS certified      the test.                                                                           that didn’t spread at all.’
                                        The RWS specifically prohibits the                                                                                       Dave sometimes carried the packable
sustainable if it’s managed in a                                                merino range in 2018.
                                        practice of mulesing, which involves                                           ‘On first glance I would not buy this     jacket in his pocket: ‘In the past        With such rave reviews, Anneliese was
way that looks after the animals
                                        removing strips of skin from a          Kathmandu Textile R&D and              jacket for tramping,’ Dave reported.      I would have carried a daypack            more confident to recommend these
and the land.
                                        sheep’s rear. Mulesing has been         Responsible Materials Manager          ‘It appeared to me to be too light to     around with a heavier jacket in it.’      types of fabric for Kathmandu’s new
Kathmandu is part of the                a common practice in Australia          Manu Rastogi says the big gains        do a good enough job.’                    At one point, one of Dave’s tramping      Zeolite trail running range.
collaborative industry group            but has been phased out in              come from working together.                                                      companions realised that he would be
                                                                                                                       For six weeks, Dave carried his two                                                 ‘That’s what I love about this job,’
developing the Responsible Wool         New Zealand.                            ‘It’s about combining quantities                                                 less wet by exposing himself to a warm
                                                                                                                       lightweight test jackets on adventures,                                             she says. ‘I get to connect with
Standard. RWS is a voluntary global                                             so it becomes economical for the                                                 drizzle than sweating away in a heavy
                                        The Responsible Wool Standard                                                  from a seven–day alpine tramp to a                                                  the customer and challenge their
standard that addresses the welfare                                             whole supply chain. That opens up                                                three–layer jacket.
                                        launched in June 2016 as an                                                    three–day adventure race to a month                                                 expectations and follow it right
of sheep and of the land they graze                                             opportunities for other brands to
                                        independent, voluntary standard.                                               instructing at Outward Bound’s            ‘I was at the perfect temperature         through from concept to development.’
on. The international working group                                             be a part of it. We are leading
                                        From farm and right through                                                    Anakiwa school.                           and my moisture was managed well,’
includes farmers, scientists, animal                                            the way in bringing this standard
                                        production, certification ensures                                                                                        says Dave.
welfare groups and brands like H&M,                                             to the market.’                        ‘Both these jackets have challenged
                                        that wool for certified farms is
Patagonia and The North Face.                                                                                          my belief that a waterproof jacket        As for durability, Dave put this to the
                                        properly identified and tracked.        ‘For me, it’s not just about looking
                                                                                                                       must be thick and robust in order to      test by purposefully dragging the
The working group spent time                                                    at standards and adopting them,
                                        The standard will create an                                                    keep the elements out,’ Dave says.        sleeves across a thorny bush.
researching existing animal welfare                                             it’s about working to develop
                                        industry benchmark to drive
and land management standards                                                   them for the whole industry,’
                                        improvements in animal care
for sheep farms to come up with a                                               Rastogi says.
                                        and land management and
standard for best practice for the
                                        provide traceability from farm
industry. The standard has two key
                                        to final product so that consumers
areas. Protecting animal welfare
                                        can be confident that the wool
means that the Five Freedoms of
                                        in the products they choose is
sheep are protected at all times.
                                        truly responsible.

                         FIVE FREEDOMS OF ANIMAL WELFARE
          1                      2                       3                       4                       5
    Freedom from           Freedom from         Freedom from pain,      Freedom to express         Freedom from
  hunger and thirst          discomfort           injury or disease      normal behaviour         fear and distress
  by ready access to        by providing            by prevention           by providing             by ensuring
  fresh water and a        an appropriate        or rapid diagnosis       sufficient space,        conditions and
 diet to maintain full      environment            and treatment.       proper facilities and     treatment which
  health and vigour.      including shelter                               company of the            avoid mental
                         and a comfortable                               animal’s own kind.           suffering.
                            resting area.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Sustainability Report 2016 27
OUR PRODUCTS

   N AV I G AT I O N

                                          Keeping kids safe
                                                                                                                                    CASE STUDY                                                                   QUALITY INSPECTIONS

                                                                                                                                    FOCUS ON BUTTON BATTERIES                                                    INSPECTIONS
CHILDREN’S PRODUCTS                       We have a responsibility to make             The first step is to identify the            Coin lithium button batteries can cause                                      DOUBLE CHECK
     WERE ONE AREA
                                          sure that all products we sell are
                                          well-made and safe to use. There are
                                                                                       conditions of use. Kathmandu’s
                                                                                       children’s products are designed
                                                                                                                                    severe injuries when swallowed.                                              QUALITY
      WE FOCUSED ON                       standards to meet in every country we        for outdoor activities. We also have
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 We inspect products in our Australian
                                          sell products in. And we have our own        to acknowledge that children are
IMPROVING THIS YEAR                       standards, too. Both of these are            more vulnerable than adults.                                                                                              and New Zealand distribution centres
                                          documented in our Quality Manuals                                                                                    Electronic devices are getting smaller, slimmer   to make sure they meet our quality
                                                                                       Our risk assessment involves:                                                                                             standards. We identify products to
                                          and Standards, which we continually                                                                                  and sleeker. But inside mini remote controls,
                                          review and update. Our core manuals                                                                                  flameless candles, singing greeting cards and     inspect based on an internal risk
                                          are reviewed annually to add new
                                                                                       1. Asking what could go wrong?                      CR2032              other electronics, may be a very powerful coin–   matrix. It might be because it’s been
                                          legislative requirements. Last year,                                                       LITHIUM BATTERY           sized button battery. When a coin–sized lithium   produced by a new supplier. Or maybe
                                                                                       2. How likely is this to happen?                                                                                          there were quality concerns in the
                                          we created new and improved                                                                                          button battery gets stuck in a child’s throat,
                                          manuals for product inspection                                                                       3V              the saliva triggers an electrical current. This   prototype and development stage.
                                          as well as for tents, hand luggage           3. How bad would it be?                                                                                                   These are what we call pro–active
                                                                                                                                                               causes a chemical reaction that can severely
                                          and children’s products.                                                                                             burn the oesophagus in as little as two hours.    quality inspections. Reactive quality
                                                                                       If the answers to these questions
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 inspections happen when a shop or
                                          The Kathmandu Children’s Product             reveal an unacceptably high risk,
                                                                                                                                    Repairing the damage is painful and can require feeding tubes,               a customer raises a quality concern.
                                          Safety Standard, published in June           then we go back through our design
                                                                                                                                    breathing tubes and multiple surgeries.
                                                                                       to look for ways to make the product
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 CARE AND
                                          2016, helps our designers, product
                                                                                       safer or include warnings.                   Small children often have easy access to these devices, and many
                                          technicians and suppliers to develop
                                                                                                                                    parents do not know there is a risk. At greatest risk are children under
                                          safe products for infants and children
                                          up to 14 years of age.
                                                                                       Our suppliers are responsible for
                                                                                       making sure the children’s products
                                                                                                                                    three years of age, who may not be able to explain that they have
                                                                                                                                    swallowed a battery.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 REPAIR
                                          We looked at regulations in the              they produce are safe in their design,                                                                                     NZ                     AU
                                                                                       materials and componentry used.              According to the Australian awareness group, The Battery Controlled,
                                          countries where we sell products,                                                                                                                                             garments
                                          but we also took time to think               They make sure the labelling and
                                                                                       packaging meets requirements.
                                                                                                                                    around 3,500 button battery swallowing cases are reported to US poison
                                                                                                                                    control centres each year. The number of cases where children have been
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 1751   repaired       908 garments
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             repaired
                                          about what might happen when
                                                                                                                                    seriously hurt or have died in the US more than quadrupled over the last                                products
                                          our products were used as expected
                                          and when they were misused.
                                                                                       And they make sure the entire
                                                                                       production meets the same standards          decade. Dr Ruth Barker, from the Queensland Injury Surveillance Unit,        0 recalls             192 tested
                                                                                       that we have signed off in the product       estimates that at least four children per week present to an emergency
                                          We built in a risk assessment process
                                          to guide product designers and
                                                                                       development and sampling process.            department in Australia with an injury related to a button battery.          26 planned
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     inspections       30 reactive
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          inspections

                                          technicians through a series of steps
                                          to make sure safety is built into new                                                     ‘Many of these incidents
                                          products right from the early stages                                                      could be prevented through                                                   PRIVACY
                                          of development.
                                                                                                                                    better education and warnings                                                TWO CUSTOMER
                                                                                                                                    on packaging.’                                                               COMPLAINTS
                                                                                                                                    Robyn Mapp,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 We have a stringent policy and
RISK ASSESSMENT PROCESS                                                                                                             Kathmandu Senior Product Technician
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 supporting process in place to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 protect the privacy of our Summit
                                                                                                                                    Kathmandu Senior Product Technician Robyn Mapp joined an industry
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Club members and online account
                                                                         How serious                           YES                  working group on button battery safety last year, after a passionate
      New                 How will    What could                                                                                                                                                                 customers. In 2016, we received two
                        it be used?                     How likely        would the                                                 customer and doctor contacted us to participate.
    product                           go wrong?          is this?         injury be?                                                                                                                             substantiated customer complaints
                                                                                                Is the risk               Proceed
                                                                                                tolerable?                          The group worked to develop a voluntary industry code for consumer           regarding breaches of privacy.
                                                                                                                                    goods that contain button batteries that will be released this year.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 While searching for member accounts
                                                                                                                                    ‘I have seen how button batteries are easily accessible to small children    in our Point of Sale system, employees
                                                                                                                                    and the damage that they can do,’ says Robyn. ‘I really believe that         from two stores revealed personal
                                                                                                                                    it is important for us to inform our customers of the risks associated       customer information. Store managers
                                                                                                                                    with these batteries and I think many of these incidents could be            provided coaching to both employees
                                                                                             NO                                     prevented through better consumer education and through warnings             and delivered refresher training to all
                                                                                                                                    on packaging.’                                                               their staff. As a further precaution,
                                                     Adapt the design
                                                     or add warnings                                                                                                                                             a mandatory communication bulletin
                                                                                                                                    ‘Working on an industry group to create change is one of the best ways
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 with revised guidelines was distributed
                                                                                                                                    that we as a brand can address big safety issues like this,’ Robyn says.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 to every store.
                                                                                                                                    Kathmandu has used the code to develop a plan for adopting its
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 We received no complaints from
                                                                                                                                    recommendations. For products and packaging, we have already started
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 external organisations or any
                                                                                                                                    taking on some of the requirements, but these will need to be refined
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 regulatory body regarding privacy,
                                                                                                                                    and improved. Another step in our plan this year will be to audit existing
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 and no leak, theft or loss of customer
                                                                                                                                    products to see where improvements can be made.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 data was identified.

28 Sustainability Report 2016                                                                                                                                                                                                   Sustainability Report 2016 29
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