The Elegance Of Couture - The Leela

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The Elegance Of Couture - The Leela
M A G A Z I N E

The Elegance Of Couture
The Elegance Of Couture - The Leela
The Elegance Of Couture - The Leela
The Elegance Of Couture - The Leela
CHAIRMAN’S MESSAGE

                                     A
                                                     s we enter a new year, I cannot emphasize enough the
                                                     importance of good health as a form of true wealth.
                                                     There are an array of ways of achieving that at our
                                                     disposal nowadays — whether it’s through yoga, going
                                                     to the gymnasium, enjoying laps of the swimming pool,
                                     eating healthier or rejuvenating at a spa, that help us take better care
                                     of ourselves. We, at The Leela, have always believed in this form of
                                     holistic living as you will see in a story inside. Part of taking good
                                     care of our guests is seeing that they are facilitated in taking personal
                                     good care of themselves. After all, a healthy body plus healthy mind
                                     equals a happy soul!
                                         The last couple of months have seen several high-profile
                                     weddings, with Udaipur being the destination du jour for couples to

     The last couple of              tie the knot. We spotlight the city of historic palaces and forts, and
                                     give you a first-hand view of its royal splendour. Equally royal is the
    months have seen                 couture of master designer Manish Malhotra who graces the cover.
  several high-profile               He has risen to the pinnacle of the fashion world with no formal

       weddings, with                training but purely through hard work, talent and an undying love for
                                     what he does.
    Udaipur being the
                                         Art aficionados will be intrigued by an interview with Director
destination du jour for              of Christie’s India, Sonal Singh, who provides an insight in the new
couples to tie the knot              directions of the art world and the staggering influence of technology
                                     on it. And those who enjoy nothing more than a good tipple will be
                                     happy to know that bartenders across the country are now sourcing
                                     local ingredients and creating their own syrups and infusions to
                                     elevate the cocktail drinking experience.
                                         Enjoy the read.

                                     Vivek Nair
                                     Chairman & Managing Director,
                                     The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts

           THE LEELA MAGAZINE   | 2 | winter 2018-2019
The Elegance Of Couture - The Leela
CONTENTS
T H E          L E E L A                  M A G A Z I N E               —        w i n t e r         2 0 1 8 - 2 0 1 9

52
Travel
The historic palaces and
forts of Udaipur

                    08                                             12                                           18
           Luxe Effect                           Proust Questionnaire                                        Books
   Statement-making timepieces, and the               With MasterChef judge, author             An excerpt from Aarti Kelshikar’s ‘How
   coolest fragrances for men and women                  and chef Gary Mehigan                 India Works: Making Sense of a Complex
                                                                                                         Corporate Culture’

                    24                                             30                                           40
               Wheels                                        Business                                     Mixology
       A look at india’s first hypercar           Director of Christie’s India, Sonal Singh,      Why homegrown cocktails are the
                                                 on the intersection of technology and art               new rage at bars

                    46                                             58                                           66
               Fashion                                  The Good Life                                          Art
      Czar of couture Manish Malhotra              Author Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi          How masterpieces of art are being turned
         on all things fashionable                        on his endearing fable                  into carpets for a charitable cause

                                               THE LEELA MAGAZINE   | 4 | winter 2018-2019
The Elegance Of Couture - The Leela
T H E    L E E L A   M A G A Z I N E                   —       w i n t e r                2 0 1 8 - 2 0 1 9

C O N T E N T S
                                                                                                                            COVER
                                                                                                                            Philanthropist
                                                                                                                            Natasha Poonawalla
                                                                                                                            in Manish Malhotra’s
                                                                                                                            elegant couture line

                                                                                                                            THE LEELA
                                                                                                                            EDITOR-IN-CHIEF — Lakshmi Nair
                                                                                                                            EDITORIAL & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR
                                                                                                                            — Shobha Patel
                                                                                                                            PRODUCTION — Prakash Bachche

                                                                                                                            MEDIASCOPE
                                                                                                                            EDITORIAL
                                                                                                                            EDITOR — Farhad J. Dadyburjor
                                                                                                                            JUNIOR WRITER — Shikha Talwar
                                                                                                                            CLIENT SERVICE MANAGER — Reshma Malvankar

                                                                                                                            ART
                                                                                                                            CREATIVE DIRECTOR — Muhammad Jaan Faruqui
          76                                       79                                           82                          ASST. ART DIRECTOR — Vikas Hari Kinjawadekar
                                                                                                                            GRAPHIC DESIGNER — Shivaji B. Gaikwad
                                                                                                                            IMAGE EDITOR — Vivek N. Deshmukh
                                                                                                                            PRODUCTION MANAGER — Elidio Fernandes

                                                                                                                            ADVERTISING SALES
BACK OF THE BOOK                                                                                                            MUMBAI (022- 61377400)
                                                                                                                            Vice President — Monica Chopra
                                                                                                                            Katty Gia, Rashmi Kapoor
                                                                                                                            DELHI (011-23730873/66599300)
70      Health & Fitness                                    83           Insider’s Guide                                    Sr. General Manager (North) — Asha Augustine
                                                                                                                            Senior Manager — Nikhil Mehrotra

76                                                          84
                                                                                                                            BANGALORE (09886041356) — Nagesh Rao
        Food Festival                                                    Events                                             HYDERABAD (08978866599) — Sheetal Petkar
                                                                                                                            KERALA (09414069321) — Sanjai Krishnan

79      Snapshot                                            85           Accolades                                          AD SALES - INTERNATIONAL
                                                                                                                            HONG KONG (+852-2516 1003) — Winky Wong
80      Launchpad                                           86           Guest Speak                                        MALAYSIA (+60-3-7729 6923) — Shallie Cheng
                                                                                                                            SINGAPORE (+65 6735 8681) — Joui Ong
                                                                                                                            DUBAI (+9714 3913360) — Sunil Kanchan
81      Chef ’s Corner                                      87           Perspective                                        MARKETING
                                                                                                                            MANAGER MARKETING SERVICES — Salim B.
82      Jet Set Go                                                                                                          FINANCE & ACCOUNTS
                                                                                                                            SR. MANAGER - ACCOUNTS & ADMIN.
                                                                                                                            — Girish Sharma
                                                                                                                            ACCOUNTS EXECUTIVE — Ashwin Makwana
                     “This Magazine is published by Hotel Leela Ventures Limited (“Leela”) and produced by MEDIASCOPE       CREDIT CONTROLLER — Girish Joshi
                     MULTIMEDIA (INDIA) PRIVATE LIMITED, on behalf of and under agreement with Leela. Opinions
                     expressed herein are of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of Leela or of         CORPORATE
                     MEDIASCOPE MULTIMEDIA (INDIA) PRIVATE LIMITED. All enquiries about editorial matters, reproduction     CEO & MANAGING DIRECTOR — Marzban Patel
                     of articles and advertising should be addressed to The Leela Magazine, MEDIASCOPE MULTIMEDIA
                                                                                                                            EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR — Anita Patel
                     (INDIA) PRIVATE LIMITED, 51 Doli Chamber, Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba, Mumbai 400 005, India.
                     Email: theleela.editor@mediascope.co.in                                                                CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER — Sunando Roy
                     Material in this publication may not be reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the consent   DIRECTOR — Indu Joshi
                     of the publisher. Neither Leela nor MSP assumes any responsibility or endorses any claim made by the
                     advertisers herein.”
                     Printed at Parksons Graphics, Andheri (West), Mumbai 400053.                                           CONNECT WITH US ON

                     This magazine is printed on environment-friendly, wood-free paper.

                                                 THE LEELA MAGAZINE          | 6 | winter 2018-2019
The Elegance Of Couture - The Leela
LUXE EFFECT

     CARTIER                                                          PATEK PHILIPPE
     This timepiece from the Parisian                         Patek Philippe’s perpetual
     brand’s Ballon Bleu De Cartier                          calendar chronographs are
         collection is not only bejewelled                  among the most coveted
            in a total of 1,682 brilliant-                     and collectable of all
              cut diamonds but offers                       wristwatches for men,
                a 12.1mm thickness                          and this model leaves
                 that sits delicately on                        no room for doubt.
                 your wrist. With the                           A delight for watch
                pink gold case, dial and                         lovers, the manual-
             bracelet made of 135 (1.32                    winding timepiece boasts
           carats), 464 (1.60 carats)                           a classic palette of rose
        and 1,029 (6.99 carats) brilliant-                  gold and black. The sunburst
     cut diamonds respectively, the                             dial flaunts symmetrically
      timepiece offers the collection’s star                      balanced with day/month
      feature: sword-shaped hands, along                        indicator at 12 o’clock and an
      with a sapphire crystal making it an                    analogue date at 6 o’clock,
     all-time stunner.                                         along with two sub-dials.

Head-turners!                                                    Glamourous timepieces to keep you
                                                                 shining through the new year.

                BREGUET
                Flaunting 66 brilliant-cut diamonds, this timepiece is for the fashion
                forward. With a clean profile and grand feu enamelled dial, it flaunts
                a moon phase indicator and is an individually numbered and signed
                Breguet timepiece. With delicately fluted caseband and an 18-carat white
                gold case, the self-winding timepiece is perfect for formal events.

                                                   VACHERON CONSTANTIN
                                              The beauty of this timepiece is that
                                      despite its bezel adorned in diamonds,
                                           the reader’s attention is first drawn
                                          to its 40 mm, minimalistic dial that
                                           makes time-reading fast and easy.
                                           Featuring an 18-carat crown, case
                                         and dial in pink gold, the timepiece
                                        strikes a perfect balance between
                                        glam and subtle. With an 18-carat
                                           ardillon buckle and dark brown
                                     alligator strap, this makes a good
                                             go-to choice for all stylish
                                                gentlemen out there.
                                                                                                 — Compiled by
                                                                                                 Deepali Yadav
The Elegance Of Couture - The Leela
LUXE EFFECT

                                                                                                BURBERRY
                                                                                An ode to Burberry’s exemplary
                                                                                 black Heritage trenchcoat and
                                                                                    London’s bustling nightlife,
                                                                                  Mr Burberry Eau de Parfum is
                                                                                   a masculine scent with fresh
                                                                                and aromatic notes of tarragon,
                                                                                   cinnamon, patchouli, amber
                                                                                            and smoky vetiver.

MARC JACOBS
Created in tandem with Marc Jacobs’ chic fashion aesthetic,
Decadence is a warm floral fragrance for women. Exotic blooms
such as Bulgarian rose, jasmine, Italian plum, papyrus wood
and orris are bottled for fashionable ladies.

Scent of
                                                                                                                   TOM FORD
                                                                                                                   Tom Ford’s Private Blend Oud

success
                                                                                                                   Wood Eau de Parfum is a strong
                                                                                                                   and musky scent. The sensual
                                                                                                                   concoction is made from the
                                                                                                                   super-exclusive oud wood (wood
                                                                                                                   from the bark of the Southeast
We round up the season’s most intoxicating
                                                                                                                   Asian agar tree), rosewood,
fragrances for men and women.
                                                                                                                   cardamom, sandalwood, vetiver,
                                                                                                                   tonka bean and amber.

                                            DIOR                                             GIVENCHY
                                            Dior’s new perfume, JOY                   A blend of rich green,
                                            by Dior, is a soft-pink                  spice and wood notes,
                                            embodiment of summer. It              Gentlemen Only from the
                                            is a crisp mix of bergamot,             house of Givenchy is a
                                            mandarin and jasmine                  sensual fragrance for the
                                            with heady notes of                   millennial man. The base
                                            sandalwood, cedar and                     of the day-scent is an
                                            patchouli for the woman                intermix of sandalwood
                                            on the go.                                        and vanilla.

                                                                                                               — Compiled by Shikha Talwar
                                                    THE LEELA MAGAZINE    | 10 | winter 2018-2019                                                   winter 2018-2019   | 11 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
The Elegance Of Couture - The Leela
PROUST QUESTIONNAIRE

          Gary Mehigan
              He’s a chef, restaurateur, author and most famously, one of the
              judges on the hugely popular ‘MasterChef Australia’. Down in
          Mumbai for a short trip, we caught up with him on the Indian dish he
              cooks best and the one person who inspired him to be a chef.

What’s your current                     What is your greatest                   Which is the worst
state of mind?                          regret?                                 and most innovative
Work less, more time with               Not spending more time with             dish you’ve eaten in
family and friends.                     my daughter when she was                the region?
                                        young. I had just opened my             My mother said that if you
What is your                            first restaurant when she               don’t have anything nice to
most marked                             was born and I was doing                say then don’t say anything
characteristic?                         horrendous hours. They are              at all, so I won’t answer the
I’m a cleanliness freak when            only with us for such a short           first one. But the second
I cook. It drives my wife nuts          time. I wish I could have that          part to the question would
as I am constantly cleaning             time again.                             have to be dinner at Orana.
up as I go.                                                                     Anything Jock Zonfrillo puts
                                        Which one quality                       on the menu is innovative.
Who is your greatest                    should every man
inspiration in the                      have?                                   If you had to pick
culinary world?                         Generosity.                             an animal in South
My grandfather. He is the                                                       Australia that
reason I decided to become              If you could change one                 resembles you, which
a chef.                                 thing about yourself,                   one would it be?
                                        what would it be?                       Murray River Cod, because I
Which Indian dish do                    My ability to eat anything and          love to swim.
you cook the best?                      not put on weight.
I make a mean curry, and I                                                      What’s your top
love making Indian breads. I            You’re an ambassador                    bucket list experience
am now working on my roti               for South Australia.                    in the country?
technique.                              What’s the most                         It would be driving down
                                        adventurous thing                       from Adelaide to the Fleurieu
What dish or culinary                   you’ve done there?                      Peninsula, taking a walk on
technique would                         Walking the roof of Adelaide            the beach and enjoying a
you like named after                    Oval in South Australia and             lazy long lunch at the Star
you?                                    doing the ‘lean back’! It was           of Greece.
None, I don’t have that sort            amazing and terrifying at the
of ego!                                 same time.                              — Interviewed by Joanna Lobo

                                 THE LEELA MAGAZINE   | 12 | winter 2018-2019                                   winter 2018-2019   | 13 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
The Elegance Of Couture - The Leela
BOOKS

Decoding
corporate
India
Aarti Kelshikar’s ‘How
India Works: Making
Sense of a Complex
Corporate Culture’
(HarperCollins) fleshes
out the cultural nuances
and complexities that
underlie and impact the
way Indians work. It is
particularly relevant for
the expatriate working
in India, the Indian
who repatriates and
the Indian working in
corporate India. We
present an excerpt...

COMMUNICATING: THE INDIAN WAY                                                   In the countries where I’ve worked earlier — Belgium and Germany
Before discussing how Indians communicate, it may be a good                — communication is content-driven, rational and logical; it’s all black
idea to look at the bigger picture: how similar are Indians to other       and white. Coming to this part of the world, Singapore is similar. With
Asians in their approach? One thing is certain: not all Asians can be      Indonesians, you have to find out what they want to say. Filipinos are
painted with the same brush when it comes to communication. Of             also somewhat communicative but less than Indians.
the Asian countries I am familiar with, the Japanese are at one end             Research in the cross-cultural domain indicates that Indians
of the spectrum, with their highly nuanced, subtle and indirect style      are ‘high’ on context when it comes to communication. High-context
of communication. Indonesians, Filipinos and Thais are polite and          cultures are those where communication is more implicit, subtle and
respectful. Singaporeans are more direct and a bit clinical.               layered. In India, while people are generally polite and reticent, they
     This is an Asian’s take on communication styles in countries that     can also be expressive and fairly direct, more so than in many of the
he has lived in:                                                           Asian countries mentioned above. As Kevin remarks, ‘I think Indians

                                                  THE LEELA MAGAZINE   | 18 | winter 2018-2019
are both context- and content-oriented. You need a mix of both                  communicate well. However, if someone doesn’t understand me, they are
approaches; you cannot be only content-oriented or rational here.’              very unlikely to tell me and I think that’s a shame. If I was talking about
     Consider Virginia’s perceptions on how Indians communicate:                something with a group of twenty people, and one of them raised their
Communication in India is incredibly direct and there’s almost no filter.       hand and said, ‘Actually, I didn’t understand, can you explain again?’ I’d
So, if you’re looking tired, you’ll be told you’re looking tired and ‘Are       be really impressed with that person!
you ill?’ If you’ve put on a little bit of weight, people will say, ‘What            Hari shares this enlightening take on the ‘nod’: ‘Most foreigners
happened, yeah?’ or they will say, ‘You’ve become fat.’ So it’s very to-        assume that it denotes understanding. Not quite. It may convey
your-face. It’s very different from the rest of South-East Asia, which is       attentiveness and definitely respect. Bottom line, don’t let it fool you.
much more aware of hierarchies in society and respect for elders. There         Converting instructions into action could be a challenge unless you
is that in India obviously, but I would say communication is very direct.       probe into what has been understood and follow up. Once established,
     However, while people may communicate their thoughts and                   communication is less demanding, and productivity improves.’
opinions, there is one caveat: the hierarchy factor which impacts
and dilutes directness socially and professionally. But as Indians feel         STICKING TO AN AGENDA
comfortable with their colleagues and bosses, they share their views.           In his understated, polite Japanese way, an interviewee says,
In fact, they may even take it to the next level!                               ‘Meetings may not be strictly agenda-bound and may deviate to
                                                                                other related topics at times. In Japan, meetings are kept as brief as
THE HEAD WAG                                                                    possible with maximum pre-meeting preparation. In India, sometimes
Shaken, not stirred. An apple martini? No, something far more banal             we have longish meetings.’
— the head wag, an essential part of the Indian’s communication                      Whether it is an external or internal meeting, it could be a
arsenal. It could be an indication of a ‘yes’ or ‘no’. But it’s seldom so                          challenge to stick to a strict agenda in India.
simple. It could mean anything from ‘I’m listening’, ‘I                                            Meetings are often free-flowing, where one point
don’t understand’, ‘You don’t make                                                                  can lead to another, which can then lead to a
sense’, to ‘I agree’ and ‘Yes, I like this                                                           completely different subject. The conversation
idea, it’s great!’                                                                                   may digress and not follow a logical, linear line of
     A person used to a direct verbal                                                                 thinking as highlighted in this anecdote shared
style of communication is unaware of how                                                               by Kevin:
to read and interpret this complex aspect                                                              I work for a German company; I have a military
of body language. Here’s an interviewee’s                                                               background, so I am used to a linear way of
unique take on it:                                                                                       discussion. One goes from A to B to C and
     The head wag? I love it! In fact, I take it                                                         there is a certain structure in the way you plan
back to England with me. I find it easy to do,                                                            the discussion. Here, it doesn’t necessarily
though it’s taken me time to understand it. I                                                             work that way.
think it’s a really relaxed way of communicating                                                           Let’s say you have certain points to
— you don’t always have to say ‘yes’. To me, it                                                             discuss for a contract. Instead of going in
means everything and nothing all at the same                                                                order, there is a tendency to interconnect
time. It means you’re taking it in, you’re absorbing                                                         everything. In the process, it gets more
what’s being said, or you’re not, or the other                                                                complicated!
person is speaking rubbish!                                                                                         You can create a certain framework
     It’s relevant to mention here that Indians                                                                and say, ‘Hey guys, can we discuss along
seldom express that they don’t understand                                                                these lines?’ That works, but honestly speaking,
something. Raising one’s hand and admitting                                     after several years here, I got some feedback from my boss. He said, ‘How
ignorance or lack of comprehension, whether it’s in a classroom or a            come when you’re explaining, you’re not direct and to the point?’ I think
board meeting, is not a common occurrence. Culturally, this has not             he was surprised because I’m normally a very direct person.
been encouraged. Peter points out:                                              When I told one of my close friends in the industry about this, he
     Certainly the people we have here are quite bright and can                 remarked ‘Kevin, you’re becoming an Indian now!’

                                                       THE LEELA MAGAZINE   | 20 | winter 2018-2019
wHeeLS

                                                                           Called the Vazirani Shul, India’s first homegrown hypercar
                                                                          is an aerodynamically enhanced elegant design paired with
                                                                          a micro jet turbine electric powertrain. Dhiram Shah meets
                                                                              the man behind it, Chunky Vazirani, to find out more.

                                                                                               India’s first
                                                                                         hypercar
                                                                                              takes shape

                                                                 N
                                                                          o one really knows when exactly the       are now also purchasing limited edition
                                                                          word “hypercar” was coined, neither       supercars, which was rarely ever heard of
                                                                          is there a definite answer to what        a few years back. However, the hypercar
                                                                 was the world’s first car to be categorised        market in India is practically non-existent.
                                                                 as a hypercar. However, what we do know is         Only 5 hypercars in total ever made it to
                                                                 that the term became much more common              India, and none of them are in the country
                                                                 when the three automotive heavyweights —           any longer. Blame it on bad roads or high
                                                                 Porsche, Ferrari and McLaren locked horns          import taxes that push the price tag to a crazy
                                                                 half a decade back to create the ultimate halo     nine-figure sum, the hypercar market has
                                                                 car. There are several high-performance cars       failed to take off in India. However, Mumbai-
                                                                 built before 2013 that qualify to be called        based automobile designer and founder
                                                                 hypercars, but it was the trio of LaFerrari,       of Vazirani Automotive, Chunky Vazirani
                                                                 McLaren P1 and Porsche 918 Spyder that can         wants to change it by creating India’s first
                                                                 truly be credited for ushering in the age of       homegrown hypercar.
                                                                 hypercars. But, one might ask, what exactly
                                                                 separates a hypercar from a supercar? The          Powering ahead
                                                                 easiest way to explain that is the hypercar is a   Called the Vazirani Shul, the hypercar was
                                                                 supercar of supercars. It’s not merely             unveiled at the Goodwood Festival of Speed
                                                                 horsepower but the price tag, ground-              in the UK recently. Still in its conceptual
                                                                 breaking technology, rarity and aspiration         stage, the Vazirani Shul is an electric
                                                                 value that qualifies a high-performance car        hypercar with great emphasis on design; it’s
                                                                 to be labelled a hypercar.                         arguably one of the best-looking hypercar
                                                                      The market for high-performance cars          concepts to be revealed in recent times.
                                                                 and luxury automobiles in India has been           The company’s founder Chunky Vazirani is
                                                                 steadily growing over the last decade. In          a graduate of Art Center College of Design
                                                                 2017, Indians bought a record number of            in California and has worked as a designer
                                                                 luxury cars, helping all major luxury car          with automobile companies like Land Rover,
                                                                 manufacturers post double-digit growth             Volvo, Jaguar and Rolls-Royce. “I’ve been an
Chunky Vazirani                                                  in the country. This year’s sales figures are      art lover, but for me, cars are the greatest form
unveils the
Vazirani Shul                                                    expected to be even better. Indian buyers          of art because they have movement — they

                  THE LEELA MAGAZINE   | 24 | winter 2018-2019   winter 2018-2019   | 25 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
“The mission is to
make an electric car so
   sexy and engaging,
 that we can transition
          even the most
 stubborn petrolheads                                                                                                                   A top view of the
                                                                                                                                       hypercar, Vazirani
   to a cleaner future”                                                                                                                Shul; (Below) The
                                                                                                                                               back view

almost come alive,” he says on his passion           lightweight battery pack. This not only           Formula    One       team     for   the     further
for design. “we believe outright beauty              reduces   the      weight   considerably,   but   development of Shul.
has become very rare nowadays as visual              also addresses range anxiety and adds a
complexity and ‘designed by engineering’             sound element to elevate user experience.         India inspired
supersedes the art element that made                 The mission is to make an electric car so         Speaking about the inspiration for India’s
millions of people, including me, fall in love       sexy and engaging, that we can transition         first hypercar, Chunky adds, “I drew upon
with cars.”                                          even the most stubborn petrolheads to a           my Indian heritage and beliefs to bring to
     The      electric   hypercar     is   powered   cleaner future.”                                  life a new possibility for a modern supercar.
by four electric motors powering the                     The turbine-electric motor will be            I wanted to portray a different side of India
four wheels individually to provide fully            paired to a single ratio transmission, similar    that is lesser known but as much true. The
independent torque vectoring. However,               to the Koenigsegg Regera. The Vazirani Shul       side that focuses on getting closer to your
to keep the weight of the hypercar as low            will also use carbon fiber extensively in its     soul. we set out to create an alternate
as possible, it will feature a lightweight           construction to make the hypercar as light as     supercar against the traditional aggression
battery pack weighing just 300 kg which              possible. The exterior styling was developed      and attention-focused supercars of the
will be charged on the go by a jet turbine.          under the guidance of racing driver and           world. A car that would create a sublime
Several    hypercar      concepts     have   been    game designer Kazunori Yamauchi, famous           observation    of     true,   controlled,    quiet
revealed in the last few years that use the          for creating the Gran Turismo video game          power to reconnect one with the self in an
same revolutionary idea of electric motors           series. The company has stated that it will       immersive driving experience.”
assisted by jet turbine as a range-extender,         work closely with India’s first and only              Vazirani Automotive hasn’t divulged
including Automobili Pininfarina’s hypercar                                                            any specifications and performance figures
codenamed PFO. Commenting on the                                                                         of the hypercar. However, the company’s
jet turbine electric powertrain, Chunky                                                                  founder has said that it will at least have
says, “we are addressing the primary                                                                     1,000 horsepower. The Vazirani Shul is still
problem of electric cars — their                                                                                 in the early phase of development
weight.    Battery       technology                                                                                  and     the     company       claims
today is still very heavy,                                                                                              that it has already started
and for a hypercar, where                                                                                               working on the functioning
the handling and agility                                                                                                prototype of the hypercar
matters as much as speed,                                                                                                with a plan to start testing
we had to figure out a                                                                                                     in the third quarter of this
unique     solution.      Since                                                                                            year. The company has also
the turbine acts as an                                                                                                     set an aggressive goal of
onboard generator, we get                                                                                                  getting into production as
the opportunity to use a                                                                                                early as 2021.

                                                     THE LEELA MAGAZINE   | 28 | winter 2018-2019
BUSINESS

                                                                                                                                                    As technology invades every aspect of our lives, it also seems to be having a large impact on

                                                          Art’s new frontier                                                                            art. Director of Christie’s India Sonal Singh talks to Sandhya Menon about the intersection
                                                                                                                                                     of art and technology, measures used to combat the proliferation of fakes in the market and
                                                                                                                                                                              the Indian contemporary artists whose works are most coveted by buyers.

                                                                                                                            W
                                                                                                                                        e live in exciting times, and that’s probably an
                                                                                                                                        understatement. But little is as exciting as the intersection
                                                                                                                                        of art and technology. For instance, did you know that
                                                                                                                            early last year in February, the top lot sold online at Christie’s was
                                                                                                                            Meteorites. Yes. And no, that isn’t the title of a piece of art! “Entitled
                                                                                                                            ‘Deep Impact’, the sale was held in February with the Matchless
                                                                                                                            Canyon Diablo meteorite selling for $237,500,” says Sonal Singh,
                                                                                                                            director and specialist head, Christie’s India. The year prior, 2017,
                                                                                                                            had all kinds of churn at Christie’s India. Among the cancelling of its
                                                                                                                            December auction in Mumbai, a hugely anticipated event for four
                                                                                                                            years before, and two of its top employees leaving the organisation,
                                                                                                                            the pre-eminent auction house managed to continue with relentless
                                                                                                                            diligence and precision. We caught up with Singh to get a little peek
                                                                                                                            into that world of seeking, appraising, readying and selling.

                                                                                                                            Immersive art
                                                                                                                            But before that, a quick reminder about the intrinsic connection
                                                                                                                            between technology and art, and how its evolution looks now. Lasers
                                                                                                                            and light are one of the foremost ways artists use technology to
                                                                                                                            create works of art that are truly transformational and interactive. A
                                                                                                                            few years ago, one of the more popular exhibits in a London show
                                                                                                                            was called ‘Assemblance’ and it was designed to encourage visitors
                                                                                                                            to create light structures and floor drawings by moving through
                                                                                                                            coloured laser beams and smoke. The inclination for most people is
                                                                                                                            to work alone, but the shapes they produce tend to be more fragile. If
                                                                                                                            a person nearby bumps into their structure, for instance, it’s likely to
                                                                                                                            fall apart. But those who collaborate with others — even if it’s through
                                                                                                                            an act as simple as holding hands — discover that the light structures
Photos: christie’s

                                                                                                                            they create are both more resilient and more sophisticated.
                                                                                                                                 Singh, coming from the other side of this business, sees directly
                                                                                                                            into the heart of how technology impacts the buying of art. Not only
                     Deep Impact: Martian, Lunar and Other Rare Meteorites                                                                                                                               Sonal Singh
                                                                                                                                                                                                         Director, Christie’s India

                                                                             THE LEELA MAGAZINE   | 30 | winter 2018-2019                                                       winter 2018-2019   | 31 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
“Works of the masters that                        changes before creating a final product. But perhaps the best example
                                                                                                                                                                                                     of how there has never been a better time for art where technology
                                                                                                                                               have not been seen for many                           is concerned is the Google Art Project that brings art from all over the

                                                                                                                                               years but are fetching strong                         world to those who may never see them in their lifetime.
                                                                                                                                                                                                         Which brings us to the question of owning art. Museums are
                                                                                                                                                      prices include artists like                    one thing, and online galleries another, but what about private art
                                                                                                                                                                                                     ownership in India? “Collectors in India are very discerning and
                                                                                                                                            Mohan Samant, Krishna Reddy
                                                                                                                                                                                                     are extremely aware of the market, their interests and trends. The
                                                                                                                                                        and Hemen Mazumdar”                          demographics range from those in their late 20s upwards and, in
                                                                                                                                                                                                     my experience, younger collectors are a little more experimental
                                                                                                                                                                                                     with their purchases. In the last six months, Christie’s has
                                                                                                                                                                                                     sold a wide mix of artworks to our collectors in India, including post-
                                                                                                                                                                                                     war contemporary art, handbags, watches, wine, jewellery and of
                                                                                                                                                                                                     course, Indian art,” says Singh. Extremely interesting observation,
                                                                                                                                                                                                     considering that till perhaps 15 years ago, there weren’t that many
                                                                                                                                                                                                     20-somethings that would invest in art unless it was part of something
                                                                                                                                                                                                     they grew up with.

                                                                                                                                                                                                     Importance of curators
                                                                                                                                                                                                     Discernment is made of refining your tastes, educating oneself and
                                                                                                                                                                                                     really understanding the vision of an artist. And because not everyone
                                                                                                                                                                                                     who appreciates art manages to encompass these qualities within

                                                                                                                    Below: rooftops by Akbar Padamsee; Sold for: $912,500
                                                                                                  Left: Tapovan
                                                                                                  by Syed
                                                                                                  Haider Raza;
                                                                                                  Price realised:
                                                                                                  $4,452,500

     “For any work     has it made things like verification and cataloguing easy, it has also
                       created an entirely new market that wasn’t accessible earlier. “The
coming into auction    online and live platforms play a big role at our auctions today. People

   at Christie’s, we   are able to bid online sitting at their computers. The online sales are
                       the greatest recruiter of new buyers and the website itself is a great
   carry out a large   resource for education and art market news,” she says.
                           Or take the painting, if one may call it that, titled ‘Rising
     amount of due
                       Colourspace’, rendered on the wall of a Berlin art gallery. At first,
   diligence, which    it probably looks unremarkable. But come back a little later and it
                       looks just a bit different. Come back in some more time, and it is
 includes checking
                       different some more. That’s because the light is constantly shifting
       old records,    and therefore, the painting is always changing. Another aspect of
                       wildly changing, thoughtful technology is its environmental impact.
        catalogues,
                       Technology has helped reduce waste in the industry as a whole, as
    exhibitions and    well as for individual artists. Because of technology and the ability to
                       share and send traditionally printed media digitally, fewer pamphlets
       publications
                       and promotional material are printed. Artists who use technology
         for works”    are able to create sketches, edit photographs and preview design

                                   THE LEELA MAGAZINE   | 34 | winter 2018-2019                                                                                             winter 2018-2019   | 35 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
View of the New York saleroom during the record-breaking Rockefeller Collection

themselves, curators are an excellent place to look to for educating                       And what about installations? “India is a strange country for
oneself about art as well as buying art for yourself. In an environment               installations unless they are public, precisely because most of our
of great variation in styles of art, an artist’s politics and the curator’s           homes aren’t big enough to house them,” says Singh. But when has
role, some criticism of Indian curators is always expected. Would it                  that stopped artists. If you’ve been to the Kochi Biennale or the
be fair to say curators in India are, perhaps, mediocre? Singh candidly               various art exhibits, it’s hard to ignore how compellingly popular
springs to the defence of those who hold India’s art viewing in their                 installations have become. “Given that homes are usually limited in
hands. “I don’t think that is a fair criticism. There are some incredible             their size to accommodate very large works, these pieces are often
curators and critics in the field of Indian art. People such as Roobina               bought by museums and corporate collections,” she adds.
Karode and Zehra Jumabhoy have just curated fantastic exhibitions at
museums,” she asserts.                                                                The most-wanted list
     Buying art either by personal discernment or with the guidance                   Before we let her go, we ask her the one thing that almost every
of a curator or an agent could all be undone if the art house                         art enthusiast wants to know. Who are the big names in art today
selling you art slips up on the rigorous verification Christie’s                      that we need to look out for? “In the field of Indian art, there are a
prides itself on. So, are fakes a problem? “For any work coming into                  number of artists to keep in mind. As we are a secondary market,
auction at Christie’s, we carry out a large amount of due diligence,                  the works we sell are not entirely of very young artists. They are,
which includes checking old records, catalogues, exhibitions and                      instead, of those who already have an established market. Works of
publications for works. Each specialist department works closely with                 the masters that have not been seen for many years but are fetching
the legal team to ensure works are owned as stated. We do not include                 strong prices include artists like Mohan Samant, Krishna Reddy and
any works that are questionable to us. This process is the same for all               Hemen Mazumdar. Some of the contemporary artists who we see to
lots offered at Christie’s — in our online and our traditional auctions,”             be on all our clients’ wish-lists include Nikhil Chopra, NS Harsha and
says Singh.                                                                           Arpita Singh.”

                                                        THE LEELA MAGAZINE        | 36 | winter 2018-2019
MIxOlOgy

      It’s
                                                                                                                            the form of a cherry and chilli syrup, and chilli oil added to dry ice.
                                                                                                                            Zorawar Kalra’s Bo Tai in Delhi has a gin-based Full Moon Festival
                                                                                                                            with homemade strawberry and rose syrup, orange spice syrup,
                                                                                                                            spiced vermouth and an edible flower garnish. KOKO in Mumbai

           all about                                                                                                        serves Gunpowder which has homemade roasted almond liqueur,

homegrown
                                                                                                                            sandalwood tincture and gunpowder syrup. At The Leela Ambience
                                                                                                                            Convention Hotel in Delhi, bar supervisor Aman Kumar has created a
                                                                                                                            welcome drink of Old Monk rum infused with sugarcane.
                                                                                                                                 Much of these homegrown innovations have to do with non-
                                                                                                                            availability of good products that aren’t synthetic or affordable.

                                                                                                                            CREATIVE CONTROL

cocktails!
                                                                                                                            At KOKO, hidden from the bar are jars filled with murky liquids. These
                                                                                                                            contain the bar’s homemade tinctures, liqueurs and macerations. Every
                                                                                                                            cocktail served here has at least one ingredient made in-house —
                                                                                                                            South Pointer uses a pistachio liqueur; Doucai has a chrysanthemum
                                                                                                                            liqueur; and Dirty Bones, homemade Amaro.

Bartenders across the country are sourcing local
ingredients and creating their own syrups, shrubs,
bitters and infusions to elevate the cocktail
drinking experience, finds Joanna Lobo.

T
        here’s something enchanting about the aroma of a well-made
        biryani, the steamed grains of rice, the rich saffron and the
        sweet spices. What if this aroma is used in a cocktail? The
        Mughal Martini at Hakkasan Mumbai is an experiment by
mixologist and Bars Manager (Hakkasan Group), Matthew Hall. It uses
quintessentially Indian ingredients — saffron, bay leaf and biryani-
infused vodka to create an aromatic and delicious cocktail.
                                      The drink speaks to a growing
                                   trend     being   highlighted      by
                                   bartenders and mixologists across
                                  India: a return to homegrown
                                cocktail     components       (tinctures,
                             syrups, cordials, infusions and bitters)
                         that feature garden-plucked garnishes and
                    local ingredients. “Guests appreciate a drink much
                 more when they hear that much of what went into it
                                                                                                                              At KOKO, Dimitri
               was made in-house,” says Ajay Prusty, Restaurant &                                                             Lezinska relies on
               Bar Manager, The Leela Goa.                                                                                    the staff to bring
                                                                                                                              back interesting
                    At Rika in Hyderabad, mixologist Roxanne Read                                       Sandlewood            ingredients from
                                                                                                      Old Fashioned           their homes
               uses the chilli in her signature Secret Garden in                                        at Hakkasan

                                                 THE LEELA MAGAZINE     | 40 | winter 2018-2019   winter 2018-2019    | 41 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
Mariki Sayles    Why put a pre-made raspberry syrup with preservatives when
                                                                      of Goyaa is
                                                                   known for her
                                                                                     I can make it myself, fresh?” says Mariki Sayles, partner and
                                                                      homemade       mixologist at Mumbai’s Goyaa.
                                                                   bitters, ginger
                                                                         beer and         Sayles is known for her homemade bitters, ginger beer and
                                                                        vermouth
                                                                                     vermouth. A vermouth infused with marigold and chamomile is
                                                                                     the star of her 18:00 Pineapple Express; housemade ginger beer
                                                                                     goes in the Shango Sling and orange bitters in the Saffron Jaggery
                                                                                     Old Fashioned. “I like working with a lot of aromatic herbs and
                                                                                     spices as they add layers to a drink without being in your face. you
                                                                                     can change a drinks’ profile by just adding bitters or an infusion,”
                                                                                     she says.

                                                                                     DESI INSPIRATION
                                                                                     This homegrown movement depends largely on what is being
                                                                                     termed the farm to glass (or farm to bar) movement: using
                                                                                     the freshest locally sourced herbs, flowers, spices and other
                                                                                     ingredients. When John leese took over as Beverage Development
                                                                                     & Bar Manager at Olive Bar & Kitchen in Mumbai, he visited a lot of
                                                                                     markets especially Crawford Market. This helped him find the best

     “I don’t overcomplicate things, I prefer simplicity. Making a cocktail
                                                                                                                                     Olive’s John Leese
is about understanding how different components behave and what                                                                     found inspiration in
                                                                                                                                       Crawford Market
flavours they add to a drink instead of just smoke and mirrors,” says
cocktail guru and in-house mixologist, Dimitri Lezinska. He believes
it’s important that the bar staff knows how to make their own syrups,
macerations and tinctures as it gives them a better understanding of
flavour and improves their skills.
     “There’s been a shift in focus in the bartending trade in recent
years. In 2010-11, there were very few change drivers trying to
educate people and change the way people drink their cocktails.
Now, with bartenders travelling the world and learning new skills,
they are keen to experiment and showcase their expertise,” says
Pankaj Balachandran, bartender and founder member of the beverage
consultancy, Bar-Back Collective.
     Beyond just showcasing their skills, creating homemade
components allows bartenders to control the drink’s quality, from the
amount of sugar to the usage of seasonal ingredients. As everything is
made fresh and in small batches, there’s minimal wastage.
     “Making your own syrups and bitters allows you better balance
and you have full control over the taste. They also have better
flavour,” adds Aman Kumar. He infuses vodka with spices like cinnamon
and star anise; and makes his own orange, chocolate, five spice and
pear bitters.
     “I like to control what I put in my body. When you make your own
components, you can control what goes in there and keep it healthy.

                                                    THE LEELA MAGAZINE    | 42 | winter 2018-2019
the Library Bar at
  the Leela Palace
  new Delhi uses
  indian ingredients
  to give a beautiful
  sensory note to
  the cocktails

spices and herbs to use in his homemade syrups               For Ajay Prusty, all he                        Aman Kumar prefers his experiments to
and infusions. “Indian ingredients work really well.                                                  be a bit hatke, to create a drink “you won’t get
There are combinations that I would not necessarily
                                                          had to do was turn to the                   anywhere else”. At Club Cuba, his signature
have thought of had I still been in Europe. There is        Leela Goa’s three-acre                    cocktails have fruit and spice syrups, bitters
such variety of flavours, why wouldn’t we include                                                     and garnishes. He once created a Kala Khatta
                                                           organic spice garden for
them in drinks?” he says, adding that he sometimes                                                    margarita using coriander, green chillies and
seeks inspiration, and herbs, from Olive’s kitchen        inspiration. “indian herbs                  kala khatta.
garden. A personal favourite is fresh green                and spices are flavoured                         At The Library Bar at The Leela Palace New
peppercorn, which is infused in Bombay Sapphire                                                       Delhi, they make their own infused thyme and
to create the Stiff Upper lip (muddled strawberries,
                                                          and have intense aromas                     rosemary, green pepper and orange zest, and
fresh peppercorn, basil, lemon juice).                  that give great taste to top-                 saffron and sweet lime bitters; infusions of
     At Hakkasan, Matthew Hall has some truly                                                         vodka with whole Indian spices; and cucumber
                                                          end spirits when used to
desi essences — sandalwood for the Sandalwood                                                         and basil, and cilantro and jaggery syrups.
Old Fashioned and a gili mitti (wet earth) fragrance              make cocktails.”                    “There is a major focus on the Indian spices
for the Thandai Mule. He also has orange, star anise, grapefruit and           and ingredients these days. Things like betel nut, saffron, cardamom,
peach bitters; and lychee, apple, and beetroot liquors sourced from his        nutmeg, clove, mango and coffee are being used. Indian ingredients
visits to local markets. Mariki Sayles, too, spent a year visiting different   usually give a beautiful sensory note to the cocktails, and some of
markets sourcing ingredients and found a few — bitterweed, and                 these spices help in adding a different layer to a classic preparation,”
Ashwagandha — in Ayurvedic shops.                                              says team leader Ashim Mondal.
     For Ajay Prusty, all he had to do was turn to The leela goa’s three-           At KOKO, Dimitri lezinska relies on the staff to bring back
acre organic spice garden for inspiration. “Indian herbs and spices are        interesting ingredients from their homes. They introduced him to
flavoured and have intense aromas that give great taste to top-end             anantmool root (Indian sarsapilla). An anantmool tincture stars in the
spirits when used to make cocktails,” he says. To showcase the taste of        Seismograph — the cocktail also has a morel mushroom maceration
India, he uses cardamom, clove, and vanilla infusions. His experiments         (in vodka), a homemade pineau (aperitif made with unfermented raisin
include a South Indian Special Mojito made using pressed (fresh)               syrup), and brandy. “Indians shouldn’t get restricted looking at recipes
curry leaves instead of mint, lime and Brazilian Rum; CNC Martini with         from England, Australia and America, but utilise the abundance in
cinnamon and clove-infused vodka; and a Vanilla Martini with vanilla-          herbs, spices and produce here. Diversity means being yourself, not
infused vodka.                                                                 being different,” he ends.

                                                     THE LEELA MAGAZINE    | 44 | winter 2018-2019
FASHION

Everyone wants to be dressed by Manish Malhotra — from the international jet-set to Saudi royalty to Bollywood
superstars. Having come into the industry with no formal training but a wide-eyed love for fashion, he’s gone on
to carve a distinct niche for himself with his über-glamourous bridal and couture wear, besides upping the style
quotient of actresses on celluloid. As he celebrates 13 years of his label and 25 years of being a costume stylist
in the Hindi film industry, in his most revealing interview yet the master couturier tells Farhad J. Dadyburjor
about his upcoming memoir, being inspired by fearless women and how millennials are changing the game.

                         A fashion powerhouse
You’ve just completed 13 years of your couture label and 25 years            After finishing a quarter of a century in the film industry, my life has   “In my opinion,
of being a costume stylist in the Hindi film industry. Do you think          become one with Indian cinema. Now I feel my journey can inspire
having no formal training in fashion actually helped you in letting          those who find fashion as their true calling. Through this memoir, I       ‘Rangeela’ changed
your imagination free-flow?                                                  have encapsulated my career, right from my foray into modelling to         the way the film
Growing up, I was always fascinated with different colours, textiles,        designing for the leading ladies of Bollywood. I’d like this book to
and the looks people sported. When I watched films, it steered me            be an answer to the age-old question of why everyone from Rekha            industry saw
                                                                             to Bollywood’s newest generation looks forward to wearing Manish
even more in this direction, making me believe that I wanted to be
                                                                                                                                                        costume design —
a part of this at some level. Of course, my career started with the          Malhotra, boundless by geography, be it international celebrities like
movies, but I wanted to take my creativity and potential beyond the          the Princess of Riyadh or the late Michael Jackson.                        Filmfare magazine
silver screen. When I started my label 13 years ago, Indian fashion was           Like any narrative, it’s both pleasant and difficult to recall and
                                                                                                                                                        instituted the
still at a nascent stage; the industry made clothes but did not tell the     revisit significant moments, successes and even failures of life.
stories that went into their making. Through my journey, I feel I have       It was a true challenge to share personal incidents and moments in         Award for Costume
not only created designs, but also crafted memories and narratives           an unbiased way so that the readers could experience it, exactly how
                                                                                                                                                        Design for the first
with each collection, and with every individual I have interacted            I did.
with. Fashion is a profound, evocative experience and it is                                                                                             time ever, which I
overwhelming to see how people today have embraced my label and              You’ve   chosen    fashion   maven     and   philanthropist    Natasha
                                                                                                                                                        won. It was a big
vision with open arms.                                                       Poonawalla as the face of your new campaign. Is she your new muse
     Looking back, I think that I couldn’t have had a better training        and what made you choose to feature her?                                   moment for me”
ground to nurture my passion for fashion than the Hindi film industry.       As a young cinemagoer, sitting in the pitch darkness of a movie theatre,
I have loved sketching since I was young. To me, styling films and           I still have that one vivid memory. Long after the credits rolled on the
creating costumes fuel my imagination and skill, rather than focus on        screen, I remained rooted to my seat, awestruck by a powerful emotion.
just building a career. It is always a thrill to be surrounded by creative   It was about savouring what I had just experienced over the last three
people; being part of a process that millions of people across the           hours; it was the enigma of fearless women who commanded the
world participate and relate to, one which is part fantasy and yet, part     screen. I believed their strength came from beyond a certain character
of a deeper reality. So, every movie is about looking at a character with    or specific role, because for long, real women, who also happen to be
a fresh perspective.                                                         my style inspirations, have always surrounded me in everyday life.
                                                                                  Natasha is not only a dear friend but also perfectly embodies
This year sees the launch of your memoir (authored by senior                 the Manish Malhotra woman — someone who exudes effortless
journalist Sonal Kalra), which chronicles dressing the who’s                 poise, feminity and makes a statement through individual style.
who in India and internationally. You’re quite a private person,             This campaign rejoices the tenacious spirit of womanhood and their
so how difficult was it for you to open up about various aspects of          strength to take on the world. For me, Natasha was an obvious choice
your journey?                                                                to celebrate the celestial vision of timeless elegance and glamour.

                                                    THE LEELA MAGAZINE   | 46 | winter 2018-2019                                                                               winter 2018-2019   | 47 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
Millennials today are a big market in fashion, with nearly every
                                                                       fashion brand catering to them. What are the differences you’ve
                                                                       noticed when it comes to designing for them?
“Every big wedding                                                     Since the time I started my label, Indian couture has evolved with the
                                                                       consumer. Earlier there was a quintessential Indian outlook towards
in India is now
                                                                       outfits for formal occasions. With global exposure and access to social
documented live,                                                       media, this has changed to consumers being more open to new ideas.
                                                                       Hence the millennial is a delight to work with. Most of them being
with hundreds
                                                                       well travelled, they’re fully aware of the changing trends in the fashion
of social media                                                        industry. They’re open to adapting western styles and blending them
                                                                       with our traditional heritage. Fashion should be fresh, versatile and
users offering
                                                                       bespoke, allowing every designer the leeway to experiment and
their opinion                                                          push the envelope in their individual capacity with every season. The
                                                                       changing landscape of social media and technology has helped in
on what people
                                                                       bringing about a fashion revolution in our country.
wore, or using it as                                                        India has always had a multitude of crafts and culture to offer
                                                                       to the world and through easy interaction amongst millennials, the
inspiration for their
                                                                       access has only grown multifold, across boundaries. I have to say, each
own occasions”                                                         bride and groom come in with their own set of expectations today
                                                                       and want to participate equally in the curatorial journey, rather than
                                                                       blindly wearing a garment. I choose to believe that working with young
                                                                       people keeps me young!

                                                                       When it comes to menswear, what changes are you seeing with the
                                                                       way Indian men are dressing nowadays?
                                                                       I notice a renewed affinity for craft and global influence — there is so
                                                                       much pride in wearing our heritage and local weaves. While women
                                                                       have always been center stage on the runway, I am delighted to
                                                                       see men gradually carving their niche in the industry and changing
                                                                       things up. The influx of western influences, open-mindedness in
                                                                       fashion, a growing gender-fluid movement that has changed the way
Philanthropist                                                         we dress contributes to this. New technical advancements in fabric
Natasha Poonawalla
in Manish Malhotra’s                                                   and craftsmanship have empowered menswear. In a luxury format,
elegant couture line                                                   menswear has evolved and emerged to be more bespoke, stylish
                                                                       and creative.

                                                                       What’s one fashion item you personally would never wear?
                                                                       My energies are so focused towards dressing and creating for others,
                                                                       that I often notice myself shying away from bright colours. My comfort
                                                                       zone is neutral/monotones, but I draw inspirations from a wide
                                                                       spectrum, nonetheless. More than an item, I wouldn’t wear anything
                                                                       that is ill-fitting or uncomfortable.

                                                                       You’ve played a large part in changing costume design in Hindi films,
                                                                       making it far more fashionable. Which would you say was the most
                                                                       iconic outfit that you’ve designed?

                        THE LEELA MAGAZINE   | 48 | winter 2018-2019                                                      winter 2018-2019   | 49 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
In my opinion, ‘Rangeela’ changed the way the film industry saw             really took flight. I recall a time when she tried on an outfit, and it didn’t
                                                                              costume design — Filmfare magazine instituted the Award for                 look quite right. Still new to the industry, I refrained from commenting,
                                                                              Costume Design for the first time ever, which I won. It was a big           but my eyes gave my thoughts away. She coerced the truth out of me.
                                                                              moment for me. When I first met the director, Ram Gopal Varma,              In little ways, she made you feel like your opinion mattered, especially
                                                                              once he narrated the script to me, I instantly had a vision of how the      when it came from an honest place. During ‘Judaai’ (1997), she went
                                                                              character must be portrayed onscreen. Urmila Matondkar’s Mili was a         from being an iconic actor to a close friend.
                                                                              bold, never-before-seen character in Indian cinema — she was spunky,             I used to make little cholis and ghagras for her girls when they
                                                                              confident, ambitious and real; someone who embraced her femininity.         were younger. Now I’m working with Janhvi, who is a rising bright star
                                          “The trust that an iconic star
                                                                              Unforgettable characters need unique looks, and I was glad to see that      in the film industry, so it’s funny how life comes full circle. Much like
                                               like Sridevi placed in me is   audiences just loved it.                                                    her mother, she’s a bundle of talent and discipline. Some of the best
                                                                                                                                                          relationships in my life are a result of my friendship with her. She
                                         what encouraged me to think                                                                                      now leaves behind a legacy of exceptional work. I want the world
                                                                              Who has been a mentor for you in the fashion world?
                                         bigger and do better. I always       At the age of 21, photographer Rakesh Shrestha introduced me                to remember her as who she was — an iconic actor, an exceptional
                                                                              to the late Sridevi and said, “This boy sketches really well and            person, and just someone real who had her mind and her heart in the
                                               addressed her as ma’am, as     works in a boutique. Why don’t we start working with him for                right place.
                                                  she was a true mentor”      styling photoshoots?” Ever since, Sridevi and I worked in several
                                                                              films as well as styling for her appearances. The trust that an             How do you think social media has changed the way we view fashion?
                                                                              iconic star like Sridevi placed in me is what encouraged me to              And how do you use it personally, to your advantage?
                                                                              think bigger and do better. I always addressed her as ma’am, as she         I feel the industry is seeing a fundamental transformation in how we
                                                                              was a true mentor. Over the years, I learnt much from her, whether          create, consume and communicate about fashion in today’s age. Over
                                                                              it was a simple sartorial trick — she taught me that sleeves without        the Internet, people are vocal with their opinions on craftsmanship,
                                                                              lining were more flattering on screen, or giving any task at hand           trends and designs that we showcase, especially on the national and
                                                                              your unwavering focus. She never believed in doing anything half-           global influencers that we dress. The consumer landscape is truly
                                                                              heartedly, and that’s something I have tried to imbibe in my life. It was   changing thanks to social media. In a country where cinema and its
                                                                              through her that I met Yash Johar (my favourite producer) and his son       influence is as prevalent as it is, actors are looked up to as much for
                                                                              Karan, who is now my closest friend. Soon after, I began longstanding       their sartorial choices as for their performances. Bollywood has a
                                                                              associations with Ram Gopal Varma and Boney Kapoor and many other           powerful international footprint, with massive popularity, including
                                                                              Bollywood icons, all thanks to her. She will always have a special place    social media following, not to mention a front row seat to every
                                                                              in my heart.                                                                fashion week. It is only natural that actors mirror the evolution of
                                                                                                                                                          modern culture onscreen, and off it — with their personal style. Every
                                                                              Yes, I remember the last time we met it was for a photoshoot at your        big wedding in India is now documented live, with hundreds of social
                                                                              store with the late Sridevi. There was a lot of love and respect in         media users offering their opinion on what people wore, or using it as
                                                                              that room, with her daughter Janhvi at hand for moral support. She          inspiration for their own occasions.
                                                                              was one of the greatest champions of your work. What’s your most                 Luxury is today as much about the experience/the story as it is
                                                                              cherished memory of her?                                                    about the product, an idea we are able to share, thanks to technology.
                                                                              I must have been in college when I first watched ‘Himmatwala’ (1983),       Currently the label is reaching out to over 8 million people across
                                                                              and I was instantly enamoured by her. Be it those twinkling eyes or         platforms. With a 300 per cent growth last year, the label’s social media
                                                                              her graceful poise, I loved everything about Sridevi. I finally met her a   presence has truly pushed boundaries across the globe; it has allowed
                                                                              few years later... I remember waiting anxiously at Mumbai’s Mehboob         me to stay connected to the world at the click of a button enhancing
                                                                              Studio as she wrapped up a song sequence in a striking red Amrapali         accessibility and thus, transcending the constraints of brick-and-
                                                                              costume alongside the legendary Vinod Khanna. She greeted me with           mortar stores, all at once. In 2016, we were the first label to showcase
                                                                              genuine kindness, but one couldn’t help notice how reserved she was.        a Winter-Festive show for Virtual Reality — the only other designer to
                                                                              She barely spoke. Once the cameras rolled, she would spring to life         have done so was Oscar de la Renta. Technology has not only helped
                                                                              instantly. It was almost as if the camera was her best friend.              us bridge geographical barriers but also share ‘experiences’ with our
                                                                                   It was only in 1993, with ‘Gumrah’, that our work relationship         clients and followers.

THE LEELA MAGAZINE   | 50 | winter 2018-2019                                                                                     winter 2018-2019   | 51 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
TRAVEL

                                                                                                                      Udaipur’s
                                                                                           Royal Splendour
                                                                                      Enchanting and decadent, the palaces and forts of Udaipur seem like real life entities
                                                                                         soaked in history, holding on to many secrets. Pinky Eppaturi visits the lavish
                                                                                      abodes and outposts of the Maharanas and leaves mesmerised by their royal repast.

                                                                                                             Photographs by Siddhant Arya & Hardev Singh

                                                                   Bagore ki Haveli                                                           the traditional folk dances of Rajasthan, Gavri, Terah Taal, Puppet
                                                                   Our first stop was Bagore ki Haveli on the Gangaur Ghat that was           Dance and the famous Ghoomar dance of Rajasthani royal ladies. A
                                                                   built by the Prime Minister of Mewar, Amar Chand Badwa, in the 18th        top favourite is the startling Chari, with women dancing while skilfully
                                                                   century. After his death, the Mewari royal family took control and         balancing a flaming brass pot on their heads. Bavai is performed by
                                                                   some of them began living at the mansion. The numerous Rajasthani          balancing about nine pots on one artiste’s head.
                                                                   style rooms, corridors, courtyards and terraces with stellar views
                                                                   of Lake Pichola show off their traditional costumes, weapons and           City Palace
                                                                   paintings, and give an introduction to the lavish lifestyle of its past    The City Palace is a short walk away from Bagore ki Haveli and is still
                                                                   royal residents.                                                           the home of the royal family. We entered the hilltop located palace
                                                                        The frescoes, ornate mirror work, mosaic peacocks and regally         from the Bada Pol and crossed the ornate, triple-arched Tripolia Gate
                                                                   designed items of daily use are fine examples of skilled Mewari            into Manek Chowk. Soon, we were standing in front of the massive
                                                                   craftsmanship. One of the prettiest rooms in the mansion is the            edifice that we had seen from our window at the opposite bank.
                                                                   Puppet World. A part of this room replicates a king’s courtroom where           Built over a period of 400 years, centuries ago this very spot was
                                                                   royally dressed puppets are shown conducting regular proceedings.          used for ceremonial processions, elephant fights and for Maharanas
                                                                   We planned on returning the next evening to watch the famed                to be weighed with gold and silver which was then distributed among
Jag Mandir
appears to be
                                                                   ‘Dharohar’, an entertaining Rajasthani cultural show that is held          the locals. According to legend, Maharana Uday Singh constructed the
floating on water                                                  every day between 7-8 pm at the cozy Neem Chowk inside Bagore              City Palace on a hilltop on the advice of a hermit whom he had met on
as it is built on
an island                                                          ki Haveli. Vibrantly dressed artists in their ethnic garments perform      a hunting trail. It is believed that successive Mewari rulers constructed

                    THE LEELA MAGAZINE   | 52 | winter 2018-2019                                                     winter 2018-2019   | 53 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
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