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CHAIRMAN’S MESSAGE
A
s we enter a new year, I cannot emphasize enough the
importance of good health as a form of true wealth.
There are an array of ways of achieving that at our
disposal nowadays — whether it’s through yoga, going
to the gymnasium, enjoying laps of the swimming pool,
eating healthier or rejuvenating at a spa, that help us take better care
of ourselves. We, at The Leela, have always believed in this form of
holistic living as you will see in a story inside. Part of taking good
care of our guests is seeing that they are facilitated in taking personal
good care of themselves. After all, a healthy body plus healthy mind
equals a happy soul!
The last couple of months have seen several high-profile
weddings, with Udaipur being the destination du jour for couples to
The last couple of tie the knot. We spotlight the city of historic palaces and forts, and
give you a first-hand view of its royal splendour. Equally royal is the
months have seen couture of master designer Manish Malhotra who graces the cover.
several high-profile He has risen to the pinnacle of the fashion world with no formal
weddings, with training but purely through hard work, talent and an undying love for
what he does.
Udaipur being the
Art aficionados will be intrigued by an interview with Director
destination du jour for of Christie’s India, Sonal Singh, who provides an insight in the new
couples to tie the knot directions of the art world and the staggering influence of technology
on it. And those who enjoy nothing more than a good tipple will be
happy to know that bartenders across the country are now sourcing
local ingredients and creating their own syrups and infusions to
elevate the cocktail drinking experience.
Enjoy the read.
Vivek Nair
Chairman & Managing Director,
The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 2 | winter 2018-2019CONTENTS
T H E L E E L A M A G A Z I N E — w i n t e r 2 0 1 8 - 2 0 1 9
52
Travel
The historic palaces and
forts of Udaipur
08 12 18
Luxe Effect Proust Questionnaire Books
Statement-making timepieces, and the With MasterChef judge, author An excerpt from Aarti Kelshikar’s ‘How
coolest fragrances for men and women and chef Gary Mehigan India Works: Making Sense of a Complex
Corporate Culture’
24 30 40
Wheels Business Mixology
A look at india’s first hypercar Director of Christie’s India, Sonal Singh, Why homegrown cocktails are the
on the intersection of technology and art new rage at bars
46 58 66
Fashion The Good Life Art
Czar of couture Manish Malhotra Author Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi How masterpieces of art are being turned
on all things fashionable on his endearing fable into carpets for a charitable cause
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 4 | winter 2018-2019T H E L E E L A M A G A Z I N E — w i n t e r 2 0 1 8 - 2 0 1 9
C O N T E N T S
COVER
Philanthropist
Natasha Poonawalla
in Manish Malhotra’s
elegant couture line
THE LEELA
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF — Lakshmi Nair
EDITORIAL & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR
— Shobha Patel
PRODUCTION — Prakash Bachche
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ART
CREATIVE DIRECTOR — Muhammad Jaan Faruqui
76 79 82 ASST. ART DIRECTOR — Vikas Hari Kinjawadekar
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THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 6 | winter 2018-2019LUXE EFFECT
CARTIER PATEK PHILIPPE
This timepiece from the Parisian Patek Philippe’s perpetual
brand’s Ballon Bleu De Cartier calendar chronographs are
collection is not only bejewelled among the most coveted
in a total of 1,682 brilliant- and collectable of all
cut diamonds but offers wristwatches for men,
a 12.1mm thickness and this model leaves
that sits delicately on no room for doubt.
your wrist. With the A delight for watch
pink gold case, dial and lovers, the manual-
bracelet made of 135 (1.32 winding timepiece boasts
carats), 464 (1.60 carats) a classic palette of rose
and 1,029 (6.99 carats) brilliant- gold and black. The sunburst
cut diamonds respectively, the dial flaunts symmetrically
timepiece offers the collection’s star balanced with day/month
feature: sword-shaped hands, along indicator at 12 o’clock and an
with a sapphire crystal making it an analogue date at 6 o’clock,
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Head-turners! Glamourous timepieces to keep you
shining through the new year.
BREGUET
Flaunting 66 brilliant-cut diamonds, this timepiece is for the fashion
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gold case, the self-winding timepiece is perfect for formal events.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
The beauty of this timepiece is that
despite its bezel adorned in diamonds,
the reader’s attention is first drawn
to its 40 mm, minimalistic dial that
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Featuring an 18-carat crown, case
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— Compiled by
Deepali YadavLUXE EFFECT
BURBERRY
An ode to Burberry’s exemplary
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Mr Burberry Eau de Parfum is
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cinnamon, patchouli, amber
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MARC JACOBS
Created in tandem with Marc Jacobs’ chic fashion aesthetic,
Decadence is a warm floral fragrance for women. Exotic blooms
such as Bulgarian rose, jasmine, Italian plum, papyrus wood
and orris are bottled for fashionable ladies.
Scent of
TOM FORD
Tom Ford’s Private Blend Oud
success
Wood Eau de Parfum is a strong
and musky scent. The sensual
concoction is made from the
super-exclusive oud wood (wood
from the bark of the Southeast
We round up the season’s most intoxicating
Asian agar tree), rosewood,
fragrances for men and women.
cardamom, sandalwood, vetiver,
tonka bean and amber.
DIOR GIVENCHY
Dior’s new perfume, JOY A blend of rich green,
by Dior, is a soft-pink spice and wood notes,
embodiment of summer. It Gentlemen Only from the
is a crisp mix of bergamot, house of Givenchy is a
mandarin and jasmine sensual fragrance for the
with heady notes of millennial man. The base
sandalwood, cedar and of the day-scent is an
patchouli for the woman intermix of sandalwood
on the go. and vanilla.
— Compiled by Shikha Talwar
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 10 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 11 | THE LEELA MAGAZINEPROUST QUESTIONNAIRE
Gary Mehigan
He’s a chef, restaurateur, author and most famously, one of the
judges on the hugely popular ‘MasterChef Australia’. Down in
Mumbai for a short trip, we caught up with him on the Indian dish he
cooks best and the one person who inspired him to be a chef.
What’s your current What is your greatest Which is the worst
state of mind? regret? and most innovative
Work less, more time with Not spending more time with dish you’ve eaten in
family and friends. my daughter when she was the region?
young. I had just opened my My mother said that if you
What is your first restaurant when she don’t have anything nice to
most marked was born and I was doing say then don’t say anything
characteristic? horrendous hours. They are at all, so I won’t answer the
I’m a cleanliness freak when only with us for such a short first one. But the second
I cook. It drives my wife nuts time. I wish I could have that part to the question would
as I am constantly cleaning time again. have to be dinner at Orana.
up as I go. Anything Jock Zonfrillo puts
Which one quality on the menu is innovative.
Who is your greatest should every man
inspiration in the have? If you had to pick
culinary world? Generosity. an animal in South
My grandfather. He is the Australia that
reason I decided to become If you could change one resembles you, which
a chef. thing about yourself, one would it be?
what would it be? Murray River Cod, because I
Which Indian dish do My ability to eat anything and love to swim.
you cook the best? not put on weight.
I make a mean curry, and I What’s your top
love making Indian breads. I You’re an ambassador bucket list experience
am now working on my roti for South Australia. in the country?
technique. What’s the most It would be driving down
adventurous thing from Adelaide to the Fleurieu
What dish or culinary you’ve done there? Peninsula, taking a walk on
technique would Walking the roof of Adelaide the beach and enjoying a
you like named after Oval in South Australia and lazy long lunch at the Star
you? doing the ‘lean back’! It was of Greece.
None, I don’t have that sort amazing and terrifying at the
of ego! same time. — Interviewed by Joanna Lobo
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 12 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 13 | THE LEELA MAGAZINEBOOKS
Decoding
corporate
India
Aarti Kelshikar’s ‘How
India Works: Making
Sense of a Complex
Corporate Culture’
(HarperCollins) fleshes
out the cultural nuances
and complexities that
underlie and impact the
way Indians work. It is
particularly relevant for
the expatriate working
in India, the Indian
who repatriates and
the Indian working in
corporate India. We
present an excerpt...
COMMUNICATING: THE INDIAN WAY In the countries where I’ve worked earlier — Belgium and Germany
Before discussing how Indians communicate, it may be a good — communication is content-driven, rational and logical; it’s all black
idea to look at the bigger picture: how similar are Indians to other and white. Coming to this part of the world, Singapore is similar. With
Asians in their approach? One thing is certain: not all Asians can be Indonesians, you have to find out what they want to say. Filipinos are
painted with the same brush when it comes to communication. Of also somewhat communicative but less than Indians.
the Asian countries I am familiar with, the Japanese are at one end Research in the cross-cultural domain indicates that Indians
of the spectrum, with their highly nuanced, subtle and indirect style are ‘high’ on context when it comes to communication. High-context
of communication. Indonesians, Filipinos and Thais are polite and cultures are those where communication is more implicit, subtle and
respectful. Singaporeans are more direct and a bit clinical. layered. In India, while people are generally polite and reticent, they
This is an Asian’s take on communication styles in countries that can also be expressive and fairly direct, more so than in many of the
he has lived in: Asian countries mentioned above. As Kevin remarks, ‘I think Indians
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 18 | winter 2018-2019are both context- and content-oriented. You need a mix of both communicate well. However, if someone doesn’t understand me, they are
approaches; you cannot be only content-oriented or rational here.’ very unlikely to tell me and I think that’s a shame. If I was talking about
Consider Virginia’s perceptions on how Indians communicate: something with a group of twenty people, and one of them raised their
Communication in India is incredibly direct and there’s almost no filter. hand and said, ‘Actually, I didn’t understand, can you explain again?’ I’d
So, if you’re looking tired, you’ll be told you’re looking tired and ‘Are be really impressed with that person!
you ill?’ If you’ve put on a little bit of weight, people will say, ‘What Hari shares this enlightening take on the ‘nod’: ‘Most foreigners
happened, yeah?’ or they will say, ‘You’ve become fat.’ So it’s very to- assume that it denotes understanding. Not quite. It may convey
your-face. It’s very different from the rest of South-East Asia, which is attentiveness and definitely respect. Bottom line, don’t let it fool you.
much more aware of hierarchies in society and respect for elders. There Converting instructions into action could be a challenge unless you
is that in India obviously, but I would say communication is very direct. probe into what has been understood and follow up. Once established,
However, while people may communicate their thoughts and communication is less demanding, and productivity improves.’
opinions, there is one caveat: the hierarchy factor which impacts
and dilutes directness socially and professionally. But as Indians feel STICKING TO AN AGENDA
comfortable with their colleagues and bosses, they share their views. In his understated, polite Japanese way, an interviewee says,
In fact, they may even take it to the next level! ‘Meetings may not be strictly agenda-bound and may deviate to
other related topics at times. In Japan, meetings are kept as brief as
THE HEAD WAG possible with maximum pre-meeting preparation. In India, sometimes
Shaken, not stirred. An apple martini? No, something far more banal we have longish meetings.’
— the head wag, an essential part of the Indian’s communication Whether it is an external or internal meeting, it could be a
arsenal. It could be an indication of a ‘yes’ or ‘no’. But it’s seldom so challenge to stick to a strict agenda in India.
simple. It could mean anything from ‘I’m listening’, ‘I Meetings are often free-flowing, where one point
don’t understand’, ‘You don’t make can lead to another, which can then lead to a
sense’, to ‘I agree’ and ‘Yes, I like this completely different subject. The conversation
idea, it’s great!’ may digress and not follow a logical, linear line of
A person used to a direct verbal thinking as highlighted in this anecdote shared
style of communication is unaware of how by Kevin:
to read and interpret this complex aspect I work for a German company; I have a military
of body language. Here’s an interviewee’s background, so I am used to a linear way of
unique take on it: discussion. One goes from A to B to C and
The head wag? I love it! In fact, I take it there is a certain structure in the way you plan
back to England with me. I find it easy to do, the discussion. Here, it doesn’t necessarily
though it’s taken me time to understand it. I work that way.
think it’s a really relaxed way of communicating Let’s say you have certain points to
— you don’t always have to say ‘yes’. To me, it discuss for a contract. Instead of going in
means everything and nothing all at the same order, there is a tendency to interconnect
time. It means you’re taking it in, you’re absorbing everything. In the process, it gets more
what’s being said, or you’re not, or the other complicated!
person is speaking rubbish! You can create a certain framework
It’s relevant to mention here that Indians and say, ‘Hey guys, can we discuss along
seldom express that they don’t understand these lines?’ That works, but honestly speaking,
something. Raising one’s hand and admitting after several years here, I got some feedback from my boss. He said, ‘How
ignorance or lack of comprehension, whether it’s in a classroom or a come when you’re explaining, you’re not direct and to the point?’ I think
board meeting, is not a common occurrence. Culturally, this has not he was surprised because I’m normally a very direct person.
been encouraged. Peter points out: When I told one of my close friends in the industry about this, he
Certainly the people we have here are quite bright and can remarked ‘Kevin, you’re becoming an Indian now!’
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 20 | winter 2018-2019wHeeLS
Called the Vazirani Shul, India’s first homegrown hypercar
is an aerodynamically enhanced elegant design paired with
a micro jet turbine electric powertrain. Dhiram Shah meets
the man behind it, Chunky Vazirani, to find out more.
India’s first
hypercar
takes shape
N
o one really knows when exactly the are now also purchasing limited edition
word “hypercar” was coined, neither supercars, which was rarely ever heard of
is there a definite answer to what a few years back. However, the hypercar
was the world’s first car to be categorised market in India is practically non-existent.
as a hypercar. However, what we do know is Only 5 hypercars in total ever made it to
that the term became much more common India, and none of them are in the country
when the three automotive heavyweights — any longer. Blame it on bad roads or high
Porsche, Ferrari and McLaren locked horns import taxes that push the price tag to a crazy
half a decade back to create the ultimate halo nine-figure sum, the hypercar market has
car. There are several high-performance cars failed to take off in India. However, Mumbai-
built before 2013 that qualify to be called based automobile designer and founder
hypercars, but it was the trio of LaFerrari, of Vazirani Automotive, Chunky Vazirani
McLaren P1 and Porsche 918 Spyder that can wants to change it by creating India’s first
truly be credited for ushering in the age of homegrown hypercar.
hypercars. But, one might ask, what exactly
separates a hypercar from a supercar? The Powering ahead
easiest way to explain that is the hypercar is a Called the Vazirani Shul, the hypercar was
supercar of supercars. It’s not merely unveiled at the Goodwood Festival of Speed
horsepower but the price tag, ground- in the UK recently. Still in its conceptual
breaking technology, rarity and aspiration stage, the Vazirani Shul is an electric
value that qualifies a high-performance car hypercar with great emphasis on design; it’s
to be labelled a hypercar. arguably one of the best-looking hypercar
The market for high-performance cars concepts to be revealed in recent times.
and luxury automobiles in India has been The company’s founder Chunky Vazirani is
steadily growing over the last decade. In a graduate of Art Center College of Design
2017, Indians bought a record number of in California and has worked as a designer
luxury cars, helping all major luxury car with automobile companies like Land Rover,
manufacturers post double-digit growth Volvo, Jaguar and Rolls-Royce. “I’ve been an
Chunky Vazirani in the country. This year’s sales figures are art lover, but for me, cars are the greatest form
unveils the
Vazirani Shul expected to be even better. Indian buyers of art because they have movement — they
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 24 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 25 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE“The mission is to
make an electric car so
sexy and engaging,
that we can transition
even the most
stubborn petrolheads A top view of the
hypercar, Vazirani
to a cleaner future” Shul; (Below) The
back view
almost come alive,” he says on his passion lightweight battery pack. This not only Formula One team for the further
for design. “we believe outright beauty reduces the weight considerably, but development of Shul.
has become very rare nowadays as visual also addresses range anxiety and adds a
complexity and ‘designed by engineering’ sound element to elevate user experience. India inspired
supersedes the art element that made The mission is to make an electric car so Speaking about the inspiration for India’s
millions of people, including me, fall in love sexy and engaging, that we can transition first hypercar, Chunky adds, “I drew upon
with cars.” even the most stubborn petrolheads to a my Indian heritage and beliefs to bring to
The electric hypercar is powered cleaner future.” life a new possibility for a modern supercar.
by four electric motors powering the The turbine-electric motor will be I wanted to portray a different side of India
four wheels individually to provide fully paired to a single ratio transmission, similar that is lesser known but as much true. The
independent torque vectoring. However, to the Koenigsegg Regera. The Vazirani Shul side that focuses on getting closer to your
to keep the weight of the hypercar as low will also use carbon fiber extensively in its soul. we set out to create an alternate
as possible, it will feature a lightweight construction to make the hypercar as light as supercar against the traditional aggression
battery pack weighing just 300 kg which possible. The exterior styling was developed and attention-focused supercars of the
will be charged on the go by a jet turbine. under the guidance of racing driver and world. A car that would create a sublime
Several hypercar concepts have been game designer Kazunori Yamauchi, famous observation of true, controlled, quiet
revealed in the last few years that use the for creating the Gran Turismo video game power to reconnect one with the self in an
same revolutionary idea of electric motors series. The company has stated that it will immersive driving experience.”
assisted by jet turbine as a range-extender, work closely with India’s first and only Vazirani Automotive hasn’t divulged
including Automobili Pininfarina’s hypercar any specifications and performance figures
codenamed PFO. Commenting on the of the hypercar. However, the company’s
jet turbine electric powertrain, Chunky founder has said that it will at least have
says, “we are addressing the primary 1,000 horsepower. The Vazirani Shul is still
problem of electric cars — their in the early phase of development
weight. Battery technology and the company claims
today is still very heavy, that it has already started
and for a hypercar, where working on the functioning
the handling and agility prototype of the hypercar
matters as much as speed, with a plan to start testing
we had to figure out a in the third quarter of this
unique solution. Since year. The company has also
the turbine acts as an set an aggressive goal of
onboard generator, we get getting into production as
the opportunity to use a early as 2021.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 28 | winter 2018-2019BUSINESS
As technology invades every aspect of our lives, it also seems to be having a large impact on
Art’s new frontier art. Director of Christie’s India Sonal Singh talks to Sandhya Menon about the intersection
of art and technology, measures used to combat the proliferation of fakes in the market and
the Indian contemporary artists whose works are most coveted by buyers.
W
e live in exciting times, and that’s probably an
understatement. But little is as exciting as the intersection
of art and technology. For instance, did you know that
early last year in February, the top lot sold online at Christie’s was
Meteorites. Yes. And no, that isn’t the title of a piece of art! “Entitled
‘Deep Impact’, the sale was held in February with the Matchless
Canyon Diablo meteorite selling for $237,500,” says Sonal Singh,
director and specialist head, Christie’s India. The year prior, 2017,
had all kinds of churn at Christie’s India. Among the cancelling of its
December auction in Mumbai, a hugely anticipated event for four
years before, and two of its top employees leaving the organisation,
the pre-eminent auction house managed to continue with relentless
diligence and precision. We caught up with Singh to get a little peek
into that world of seeking, appraising, readying and selling.
Immersive art
But before that, a quick reminder about the intrinsic connection
between technology and art, and how its evolution looks now. Lasers
and light are one of the foremost ways artists use technology to
create works of art that are truly transformational and interactive. A
few years ago, one of the more popular exhibits in a London show
was called ‘Assemblance’ and it was designed to encourage visitors
to create light structures and floor drawings by moving through
coloured laser beams and smoke. The inclination for most people is
to work alone, but the shapes they produce tend to be more fragile. If
a person nearby bumps into their structure, for instance, it’s likely to
fall apart. But those who collaborate with others — even if it’s through
an act as simple as holding hands — discover that the light structures
Photos: christie’s
they create are both more resilient and more sophisticated.
Singh, coming from the other side of this business, sees directly
into the heart of how technology impacts the buying of art. Not only
Deep Impact: Martian, Lunar and Other Rare Meteorites Sonal Singh
Director, Christie’s India
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 30 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 31 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE“Works of the masters that changes before creating a final product. But perhaps the best example
of how there has never been a better time for art where technology
have not been seen for many is concerned is the Google Art Project that brings art from all over the
years but are fetching strong world to those who may never see them in their lifetime.
Which brings us to the question of owning art. Museums are
prices include artists like one thing, and online galleries another, but what about private art
ownership in India? “Collectors in India are very discerning and
Mohan Samant, Krishna Reddy
are extremely aware of the market, their interests and trends. The
and Hemen Mazumdar” demographics range from those in their late 20s upwards and, in
my experience, younger collectors are a little more experimental
with their purchases. In the last six months, Christie’s has
sold a wide mix of artworks to our collectors in India, including post-
war contemporary art, handbags, watches, wine, jewellery and of
course, Indian art,” says Singh. Extremely interesting observation,
considering that till perhaps 15 years ago, there weren’t that many
20-somethings that would invest in art unless it was part of something
they grew up with.
Importance of curators
Discernment is made of refining your tastes, educating oneself and
really understanding the vision of an artist. And because not everyone
who appreciates art manages to encompass these qualities within
Below: rooftops by Akbar Padamsee; Sold for: $912,500
Left: Tapovan
by Syed
Haider Raza;
Price realised:
$4,452,500
“For any work has it made things like verification and cataloguing easy, it has also
created an entirely new market that wasn’t accessible earlier. “The
coming into auction online and live platforms play a big role at our auctions today. People
at Christie’s, we are able to bid online sitting at their computers. The online sales are
the greatest recruiter of new buyers and the website itself is a great
carry out a large resource for education and art market news,” she says.
Or take the painting, if one may call it that, titled ‘Rising
amount of due
Colourspace’, rendered on the wall of a Berlin art gallery. At first,
diligence, which it probably looks unremarkable. But come back a little later and it
looks just a bit different. Come back in some more time, and it is
includes checking
different some more. That’s because the light is constantly shifting
old records, and therefore, the painting is always changing. Another aspect of
wildly changing, thoughtful technology is its environmental impact.
catalogues,
Technology has helped reduce waste in the industry as a whole, as
exhibitions and well as for individual artists. Because of technology and the ability to
share and send traditionally printed media digitally, fewer pamphlets
publications
and promotional material are printed. Artists who use technology
for works” are able to create sketches, edit photographs and preview design
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 34 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 35 | THE LEELA MAGAZINEView of the New York saleroom during the record-breaking Rockefeller Collection
themselves, curators are an excellent place to look to for educating And what about installations? “India is a strange country for
oneself about art as well as buying art for yourself. In an environment installations unless they are public, precisely because most of our
of great variation in styles of art, an artist’s politics and the curator’s homes aren’t big enough to house them,” says Singh. But when has
role, some criticism of Indian curators is always expected. Would it that stopped artists. If you’ve been to the Kochi Biennale or the
be fair to say curators in India are, perhaps, mediocre? Singh candidly various art exhibits, it’s hard to ignore how compellingly popular
springs to the defence of those who hold India’s art viewing in their installations have become. “Given that homes are usually limited in
hands. “I don’t think that is a fair criticism. There are some incredible their size to accommodate very large works, these pieces are often
curators and critics in the field of Indian art. People such as Roobina bought by museums and corporate collections,” she adds.
Karode and Zehra Jumabhoy have just curated fantastic exhibitions at
museums,” she asserts. The most-wanted list
Buying art either by personal discernment or with the guidance Before we let her go, we ask her the one thing that almost every
of a curator or an agent could all be undone if the art house art enthusiast wants to know. Who are the big names in art today
selling you art slips up on the rigorous verification Christie’s that we need to look out for? “In the field of Indian art, there are a
prides itself on. So, are fakes a problem? “For any work coming into number of artists to keep in mind. As we are a secondary market,
auction at Christie’s, we carry out a large amount of due diligence, the works we sell are not entirely of very young artists. They are,
which includes checking old records, catalogues, exhibitions and instead, of those who already have an established market. Works of
publications for works. Each specialist department works closely with the masters that have not been seen for many years but are fetching
the legal team to ensure works are owned as stated. We do not include strong prices include artists like Mohan Samant, Krishna Reddy and
any works that are questionable to us. This process is the same for all Hemen Mazumdar. Some of the contemporary artists who we see to
lots offered at Christie’s — in our online and our traditional auctions,” be on all our clients’ wish-lists include Nikhil Chopra, NS Harsha and
says Singh. Arpita Singh.”
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 36 | winter 2018-2019MIxOlOgy
It’s
the form of a cherry and chilli syrup, and chilli oil added to dry ice.
Zorawar Kalra’s Bo Tai in Delhi has a gin-based Full Moon Festival
with homemade strawberry and rose syrup, orange spice syrup,
spiced vermouth and an edible flower garnish. KOKO in Mumbai
all about serves Gunpowder which has homemade roasted almond liqueur,
homegrown
sandalwood tincture and gunpowder syrup. At The Leela Ambience
Convention Hotel in Delhi, bar supervisor Aman Kumar has created a
welcome drink of Old Monk rum infused with sugarcane.
Much of these homegrown innovations have to do with non-
availability of good products that aren’t synthetic or affordable.
CREATIVE CONTROL
cocktails!
At KOKO, hidden from the bar are jars filled with murky liquids. These
contain the bar’s homemade tinctures, liqueurs and macerations. Every
cocktail served here has at least one ingredient made in-house —
South Pointer uses a pistachio liqueur; Doucai has a chrysanthemum
liqueur; and Dirty Bones, homemade Amaro.
Bartenders across the country are sourcing local
ingredients and creating their own syrups, shrubs,
bitters and infusions to elevate the cocktail
drinking experience, finds Joanna Lobo.
T
here’s something enchanting about the aroma of a well-made
biryani, the steamed grains of rice, the rich saffron and the
sweet spices. What if this aroma is used in a cocktail? The
Mughal Martini at Hakkasan Mumbai is an experiment by
mixologist and Bars Manager (Hakkasan Group), Matthew Hall. It uses
quintessentially Indian ingredients — saffron, bay leaf and biryani-
infused vodka to create an aromatic and delicious cocktail.
The drink speaks to a growing
trend being highlighted by
bartenders and mixologists across
India: a return to homegrown
cocktail components (tinctures,
syrups, cordials, infusions and bitters)
that feature garden-plucked garnishes and
local ingredients. “Guests appreciate a drink much
more when they hear that much of what went into it
At KOKO, Dimitri
was made in-house,” says Ajay Prusty, Restaurant & Lezinska relies on
Bar Manager, The Leela Goa. the staff to bring
back interesting
At Rika in Hyderabad, mixologist Roxanne Read Sandlewood ingredients from
Old Fashioned their homes
uses the chilli in her signature Secret Garden in at Hakkasan
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 40 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 41 | THE LEELA MAGAZINEMariki Sayles Why put a pre-made raspberry syrup with preservatives when
of Goyaa is
known for her
I can make it myself, fresh?” says Mariki Sayles, partner and
homemade mixologist at Mumbai’s Goyaa.
bitters, ginger
beer and Sayles is known for her homemade bitters, ginger beer and
vermouth
vermouth. A vermouth infused with marigold and chamomile is
the star of her 18:00 Pineapple Express; housemade ginger beer
goes in the Shango Sling and orange bitters in the Saffron Jaggery
Old Fashioned. “I like working with a lot of aromatic herbs and
spices as they add layers to a drink without being in your face. you
can change a drinks’ profile by just adding bitters or an infusion,”
she says.
DESI INSPIRATION
This homegrown movement depends largely on what is being
termed the farm to glass (or farm to bar) movement: using
the freshest locally sourced herbs, flowers, spices and other
ingredients. When John leese took over as Beverage Development
& Bar Manager at Olive Bar & Kitchen in Mumbai, he visited a lot of
markets especially Crawford Market. This helped him find the best
“I don’t overcomplicate things, I prefer simplicity. Making a cocktail
Olive’s John Leese
is about understanding how different components behave and what found inspiration in
Crawford Market
flavours they add to a drink instead of just smoke and mirrors,” says
cocktail guru and in-house mixologist, Dimitri Lezinska. He believes
it’s important that the bar staff knows how to make their own syrups,
macerations and tinctures as it gives them a better understanding of
flavour and improves their skills.
“There’s been a shift in focus in the bartending trade in recent
years. In 2010-11, there were very few change drivers trying to
educate people and change the way people drink their cocktails.
Now, with bartenders travelling the world and learning new skills,
they are keen to experiment and showcase their expertise,” says
Pankaj Balachandran, bartender and founder member of the beverage
consultancy, Bar-Back Collective.
Beyond just showcasing their skills, creating homemade
components allows bartenders to control the drink’s quality, from the
amount of sugar to the usage of seasonal ingredients. As everything is
made fresh and in small batches, there’s minimal wastage.
“Making your own syrups and bitters allows you better balance
and you have full control over the taste. They also have better
flavour,” adds Aman Kumar. He infuses vodka with spices like cinnamon
and star anise; and makes his own orange, chocolate, five spice and
pear bitters.
“I like to control what I put in my body. When you make your own
components, you can control what goes in there and keep it healthy.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 42 | winter 2018-2019the Library Bar at
the Leela Palace
new Delhi uses
indian ingredients
to give a beautiful
sensory note to
the cocktails
spices and herbs to use in his homemade syrups For Ajay Prusty, all he Aman Kumar prefers his experiments to
and infusions. “Indian ingredients work really well. be a bit hatke, to create a drink “you won’t get
There are combinations that I would not necessarily
had to do was turn to the anywhere else”. At Club Cuba, his signature
have thought of had I still been in Europe. There is Leela Goa’s three-acre cocktails have fruit and spice syrups, bitters
such variety of flavours, why wouldn’t we include and garnishes. He once created a Kala Khatta
organic spice garden for
them in drinks?” he says, adding that he sometimes margarita using coriander, green chillies and
seeks inspiration, and herbs, from Olive’s kitchen inspiration. “indian herbs kala khatta.
garden. A personal favourite is fresh green and spices are flavoured At The Library Bar at The Leela Palace New
peppercorn, which is infused in Bombay Sapphire Delhi, they make their own infused thyme and
to create the Stiff Upper lip (muddled strawberries,
and have intense aromas rosemary, green pepper and orange zest, and
fresh peppercorn, basil, lemon juice). that give great taste to top- saffron and sweet lime bitters; infusions of
At Hakkasan, Matthew Hall has some truly vodka with whole Indian spices; and cucumber
end spirits when used to
desi essences — sandalwood for the Sandalwood and basil, and cilantro and jaggery syrups.
Old Fashioned and a gili mitti (wet earth) fragrance make cocktails.” “There is a major focus on the Indian spices
for the Thandai Mule. He also has orange, star anise, grapefruit and and ingredients these days. Things like betel nut, saffron, cardamom,
peach bitters; and lychee, apple, and beetroot liquors sourced from his nutmeg, clove, mango and coffee are being used. Indian ingredients
visits to local markets. Mariki Sayles, too, spent a year visiting different usually give a beautiful sensory note to the cocktails, and some of
markets sourcing ingredients and found a few — bitterweed, and these spices help in adding a different layer to a classic preparation,”
Ashwagandha — in Ayurvedic shops. says team leader Ashim Mondal.
For Ajay Prusty, all he had to do was turn to The leela goa’s three- At KOKO, Dimitri lezinska relies on the staff to bring back
acre organic spice garden for inspiration. “Indian herbs and spices are interesting ingredients from their homes. They introduced him to
flavoured and have intense aromas that give great taste to top-end anantmool root (Indian sarsapilla). An anantmool tincture stars in the
spirits when used to make cocktails,” he says. To showcase the taste of Seismograph — the cocktail also has a morel mushroom maceration
India, he uses cardamom, clove, and vanilla infusions. His experiments (in vodka), a homemade pineau (aperitif made with unfermented raisin
include a South Indian Special Mojito made using pressed (fresh) syrup), and brandy. “Indians shouldn’t get restricted looking at recipes
curry leaves instead of mint, lime and Brazilian Rum; CNC Martini with from England, Australia and America, but utilise the abundance in
cinnamon and clove-infused vodka; and a Vanilla Martini with vanilla- herbs, spices and produce here. Diversity means being yourself, not
infused vodka. being different,” he ends.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 44 | winter 2018-2019FASHION
Everyone wants to be dressed by Manish Malhotra — from the international jet-set to Saudi royalty to Bollywood
superstars. Having come into the industry with no formal training but a wide-eyed love for fashion, he’s gone on
to carve a distinct niche for himself with his über-glamourous bridal and couture wear, besides upping the style
quotient of actresses on celluloid. As he celebrates 13 years of his label and 25 years of being a costume stylist
in the Hindi film industry, in his most revealing interview yet the master couturier tells Farhad J. Dadyburjor
about his upcoming memoir, being inspired by fearless women and how millennials are changing the game.
A fashion powerhouse
You’ve just completed 13 years of your couture label and 25 years After finishing a quarter of a century in the film industry, my life has “In my opinion,
of being a costume stylist in the Hindi film industry. Do you think become one with Indian cinema. Now I feel my journey can inspire
having no formal training in fashion actually helped you in letting those who find fashion as their true calling. Through this memoir, I ‘Rangeela’ changed
your imagination free-flow? have encapsulated my career, right from my foray into modelling to the way the film
Growing up, I was always fascinated with different colours, textiles, designing for the leading ladies of Bollywood. I’d like this book to
and the looks people sported. When I watched films, it steered me be an answer to the age-old question of why everyone from Rekha industry saw
to Bollywood’s newest generation looks forward to wearing Manish
even more in this direction, making me believe that I wanted to be
costume design —
a part of this at some level. Of course, my career started with the Malhotra, boundless by geography, be it international celebrities like
movies, but I wanted to take my creativity and potential beyond the the Princess of Riyadh or the late Michael Jackson. Filmfare magazine
silver screen. When I started my label 13 years ago, Indian fashion was Like any narrative, it’s both pleasant and difficult to recall and
instituted the
still at a nascent stage; the industry made clothes but did not tell the revisit significant moments, successes and even failures of life.
stories that went into their making. Through my journey, I feel I have It was a true challenge to share personal incidents and moments in Award for Costume
not only created designs, but also crafted memories and narratives an unbiased way so that the readers could experience it, exactly how
Design for the first
with each collection, and with every individual I have interacted I did.
with. Fashion is a profound, evocative experience and it is time ever, which I
overwhelming to see how people today have embraced my label and You’ve chosen fashion maven and philanthropist Natasha
won. It was a big
vision with open arms. Poonawalla as the face of your new campaign. Is she your new muse
Looking back, I think that I couldn’t have had a better training and what made you choose to feature her? moment for me”
ground to nurture my passion for fashion than the Hindi film industry. As a young cinemagoer, sitting in the pitch darkness of a movie theatre,
I have loved sketching since I was young. To me, styling films and I still have that one vivid memory. Long after the credits rolled on the
creating costumes fuel my imagination and skill, rather than focus on screen, I remained rooted to my seat, awestruck by a powerful emotion.
just building a career. It is always a thrill to be surrounded by creative It was about savouring what I had just experienced over the last three
people; being part of a process that millions of people across the hours; it was the enigma of fearless women who commanded the
world participate and relate to, one which is part fantasy and yet, part screen. I believed their strength came from beyond a certain character
of a deeper reality. So, every movie is about looking at a character with or specific role, because for long, real women, who also happen to be
a fresh perspective. my style inspirations, have always surrounded me in everyday life.
Natasha is not only a dear friend but also perfectly embodies
This year sees the launch of your memoir (authored by senior the Manish Malhotra woman — someone who exudes effortless
journalist Sonal Kalra), which chronicles dressing the who’s poise, feminity and makes a statement through individual style.
who in India and internationally. You’re quite a private person, This campaign rejoices the tenacious spirit of womanhood and their
so how difficult was it for you to open up about various aspects of strength to take on the world. For me, Natasha was an obvious choice
your journey? to celebrate the celestial vision of timeless elegance and glamour.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 46 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 47 | THE LEELA MAGAZINEMillennials today are a big market in fashion, with nearly every
fashion brand catering to them. What are the differences you’ve
noticed when it comes to designing for them?
“Every big wedding Since the time I started my label, Indian couture has evolved with the
consumer. Earlier there was a quintessential Indian outlook towards
in India is now
outfits for formal occasions. With global exposure and access to social
documented live, media, this has changed to consumers being more open to new ideas.
Hence the millennial is a delight to work with. Most of them being
with hundreds
well travelled, they’re fully aware of the changing trends in the fashion
of social media industry. They’re open to adapting western styles and blending them
with our traditional heritage. Fashion should be fresh, versatile and
users offering
bespoke, allowing every designer the leeway to experiment and
their opinion push the envelope in their individual capacity with every season. The
changing landscape of social media and technology has helped in
on what people
bringing about a fashion revolution in our country.
wore, or using it as India has always had a multitude of crafts and culture to offer
to the world and through easy interaction amongst millennials, the
inspiration for their
access has only grown multifold, across boundaries. I have to say, each
own occasions” bride and groom come in with their own set of expectations today
and want to participate equally in the curatorial journey, rather than
blindly wearing a garment. I choose to believe that working with young
people keeps me young!
When it comes to menswear, what changes are you seeing with the
way Indian men are dressing nowadays?
I notice a renewed affinity for craft and global influence — there is so
much pride in wearing our heritage and local weaves. While women
have always been center stage on the runway, I am delighted to
see men gradually carving their niche in the industry and changing
things up. The influx of western influences, open-mindedness in
fashion, a growing gender-fluid movement that has changed the way
Philanthropist we dress contributes to this. New technical advancements in fabric
Natasha Poonawalla
in Manish Malhotra’s and craftsmanship have empowered menswear. In a luxury format,
elegant couture line menswear has evolved and emerged to be more bespoke, stylish
and creative.
What’s one fashion item you personally would never wear?
My energies are so focused towards dressing and creating for others,
that I often notice myself shying away from bright colours. My comfort
zone is neutral/monotones, but I draw inspirations from a wide
spectrum, nonetheless. More than an item, I wouldn’t wear anything
that is ill-fitting or uncomfortable.
You’ve played a large part in changing costume design in Hindi films,
making it far more fashionable. Which would you say was the most
iconic outfit that you’ve designed?
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 48 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 49 | THE LEELA MAGAZINEIn my opinion, ‘Rangeela’ changed the way the film industry saw really took flight. I recall a time when she tried on an outfit, and it didn’t
costume design — Filmfare magazine instituted the Award for look quite right. Still new to the industry, I refrained from commenting,
Costume Design for the first time ever, which I won. It was a big but my eyes gave my thoughts away. She coerced the truth out of me.
moment for me. When I first met the director, Ram Gopal Varma, In little ways, she made you feel like your opinion mattered, especially
once he narrated the script to me, I instantly had a vision of how the when it came from an honest place. During ‘Judaai’ (1997), she went
character must be portrayed onscreen. Urmila Matondkar’s Mili was a from being an iconic actor to a close friend.
bold, never-before-seen character in Indian cinema — she was spunky, I used to make little cholis and ghagras for her girls when they
confident, ambitious and real; someone who embraced her femininity. were younger. Now I’m working with Janhvi, who is a rising bright star
“The trust that an iconic star
Unforgettable characters need unique looks, and I was glad to see that in the film industry, so it’s funny how life comes full circle. Much like
like Sridevi placed in me is audiences just loved it. her mother, she’s a bundle of talent and discipline. Some of the best
relationships in my life are a result of my friendship with her. She
what encouraged me to think now leaves behind a legacy of exceptional work. I want the world
Who has been a mentor for you in the fashion world?
bigger and do better. I always At the age of 21, photographer Rakesh Shrestha introduced me to remember her as who she was — an iconic actor, an exceptional
to the late Sridevi and said, “This boy sketches really well and person, and just someone real who had her mind and her heart in the
addressed her as ma’am, as works in a boutique. Why don’t we start working with him for right place.
she was a true mentor” styling photoshoots?” Ever since, Sridevi and I worked in several
films as well as styling for her appearances. The trust that an How do you think social media has changed the way we view fashion?
iconic star like Sridevi placed in me is what encouraged me to And how do you use it personally, to your advantage?
think bigger and do better. I always addressed her as ma’am, as she I feel the industry is seeing a fundamental transformation in how we
was a true mentor. Over the years, I learnt much from her, whether create, consume and communicate about fashion in today’s age. Over
it was a simple sartorial trick — she taught me that sleeves without the Internet, people are vocal with their opinions on craftsmanship,
lining were more flattering on screen, or giving any task at hand trends and designs that we showcase, especially on the national and
your unwavering focus. She never believed in doing anything half- global influencers that we dress. The consumer landscape is truly
heartedly, and that’s something I have tried to imbibe in my life. It was changing thanks to social media. In a country where cinema and its
through her that I met Yash Johar (my favourite producer) and his son influence is as prevalent as it is, actors are looked up to as much for
Karan, who is now my closest friend. Soon after, I began longstanding their sartorial choices as for their performances. Bollywood has a
associations with Ram Gopal Varma and Boney Kapoor and many other powerful international footprint, with massive popularity, including
Bollywood icons, all thanks to her. She will always have a special place social media following, not to mention a front row seat to every
in my heart. fashion week. It is only natural that actors mirror the evolution of
modern culture onscreen, and off it — with their personal style. Every
Yes, I remember the last time we met it was for a photoshoot at your big wedding in India is now documented live, with hundreds of social
store with the late Sridevi. There was a lot of love and respect in media users offering their opinion on what people wore, or using it as
that room, with her daughter Janhvi at hand for moral support. She inspiration for their own occasions.
was one of the greatest champions of your work. What’s your most Luxury is today as much about the experience/the story as it is
cherished memory of her? about the product, an idea we are able to share, thanks to technology.
I must have been in college when I first watched ‘Himmatwala’ (1983), Currently the label is reaching out to over 8 million people across
and I was instantly enamoured by her. Be it those twinkling eyes or platforms. With a 300 per cent growth last year, the label’s social media
her graceful poise, I loved everything about Sridevi. I finally met her a presence has truly pushed boundaries across the globe; it has allowed
few years later... I remember waiting anxiously at Mumbai’s Mehboob me to stay connected to the world at the click of a button enhancing
Studio as she wrapped up a song sequence in a striking red Amrapali accessibility and thus, transcending the constraints of brick-and-
costume alongside the legendary Vinod Khanna. She greeted me with mortar stores, all at once. In 2016, we were the first label to showcase
genuine kindness, but one couldn’t help notice how reserved she was. a Winter-Festive show for Virtual Reality — the only other designer to
She barely spoke. Once the cameras rolled, she would spring to life have done so was Oscar de la Renta. Technology has not only helped
instantly. It was almost as if the camera was her best friend. us bridge geographical barriers but also share ‘experiences’ with our
It was only in 1993, with ‘Gumrah’, that our work relationship clients and followers.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 50 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 51 | THE LEELA MAGAZINETRAVEL
Udaipur’s
Royal Splendour
Enchanting and decadent, the palaces and forts of Udaipur seem like real life entities
soaked in history, holding on to many secrets. Pinky Eppaturi visits the lavish
abodes and outposts of the Maharanas and leaves mesmerised by their royal repast.
Photographs by Siddhant Arya & Hardev Singh
Bagore ki Haveli the traditional folk dances of Rajasthan, Gavri, Terah Taal, Puppet
Our first stop was Bagore ki Haveli on the Gangaur Ghat that was Dance and the famous Ghoomar dance of Rajasthani royal ladies. A
built by the Prime Minister of Mewar, Amar Chand Badwa, in the 18th top favourite is the startling Chari, with women dancing while skilfully
century. After his death, the Mewari royal family took control and balancing a flaming brass pot on their heads. Bavai is performed by
some of them began living at the mansion. The numerous Rajasthani balancing about nine pots on one artiste’s head.
style rooms, corridors, courtyards and terraces with stellar views
of Lake Pichola show off their traditional costumes, weapons and City Palace
paintings, and give an introduction to the lavish lifestyle of its past The City Palace is a short walk away from Bagore ki Haveli and is still
royal residents. the home of the royal family. We entered the hilltop located palace
The frescoes, ornate mirror work, mosaic peacocks and regally from the Bada Pol and crossed the ornate, triple-arched Tripolia Gate
designed items of daily use are fine examples of skilled Mewari into Manek Chowk. Soon, we were standing in front of the massive
craftsmanship. One of the prettiest rooms in the mansion is the edifice that we had seen from our window at the opposite bank.
Puppet World. A part of this room replicates a king’s courtroom where Built over a period of 400 years, centuries ago this very spot was
royally dressed puppets are shown conducting regular proceedings. used for ceremonial processions, elephant fights and for Maharanas
We planned on returning the next evening to watch the famed to be weighed with gold and silver which was then distributed among
Jag Mandir
appears to be
‘Dharohar’, an entertaining Rajasthani cultural show that is held the locals. According to legend, Maharana Uday Singh constructed the
floating on water every day between 7-8 pm at the cozy Neem Chowk inside Bagore City Palace on a hilltop on the advice of a hermit whom he had met on
as it is built on
an island ki Haveli. Vibrantly dressed artists in their ethnic garments perform a hunting trail. It is believed that successive Mewari rulers constructed
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 52 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 53 | THE LEELA MAGAZINEYou can also read