The First 50 Years of Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions
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The First 50 Years of
Victoria University of Wellington
Antarctic Research Centre Antarctic Expeditions
Victoria University of Wellington,
PO Box 600, Wellington, New Zealand
Phone +64-4-463 6587, Fax +64-4-463 5186
E-mail Antarctic-Research@vuw.ac.nz
www.vuw.ac.nz/antarctic
Recollections and reunion programme
Victoria University of Wellington
30 June – 1 July 2007
Table of Contents
inside front cover
Welcome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Recent Benefactors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Reunion programme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Reunion participants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
The Birth of VUWAE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Members of VUWAE: 1957-2007 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Recollections of the first 50 years . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years
Welcome Recent Benefactors
Prior to my first departure for the Ice on a VUWAE expedition, I heard the Throughout the history of VUWAE, Harry Keys, Barry Kohn, Phil Kyle,
pre-season talk that ARC Director, Professor Peter Barrett claims to have inherited from Bob Clark. organizations and individuals have sponsored Judy Lawrence, Barrie McKelvey, John
and supported the programme with equipment Nankervis, Anthony Parker, Russell Plume,
“ with
There are basically only two things to remember”, he instructed. “Firstly, help out
the boring jobs at Scott Base. This will put you in a good position with base
and money. Most recently the Antarctic
Research Centre has received a $1 million
Bryan Sissons, David Skinner, Tim Stern,
David Sugden, Tony Taylor, John Thurston,
staff, which will make their job easier, and will help make the rest of your field donation from former student Alan Eggers, who Colin Vucetich, Trish Walbridge, Robin
season go smoothly. Secondly, come back safely. While Antarctica can be a traveled to the Ice on VUWAE20 in 1975. Williams, Ian Wright and Dan Zwartz.
hazardous place, VUWAE has a proud record of having no major casualties; so
We have also benefited from a series of three
look after yourself and your colleagues. Apart from that, enjoy yourself.
” donations from Singaporean philanthropist The S.T. Lee Lectures in
Peter Barrett's passion for making sure that history informs the way we move into the future Lee Seng Tee. Dr Lee provided funds for the Antarctic Studies:
guides both his scientific research and his directorship of the Antarctic Research Centre. His love development of the S.T. Lee Library in the
of history has also made sure we would celebrate the first 50 years of Victoria University of Antarctic Research Centre and established an Antarctica and Climate Change
Wellington Antarctic Expeditions, and in that celebration leave a legacy for the next 50 years. in the Century Ahead - Causes,
endowed fund for an exchange programme Consequences and Surprises
Many thanks to the organising committee of Peter Barrett, Warren Dickinson, David Balham, Roger with the University of Alaska. He also Professor Robert Dunbar,
provided endowment funding for the S.T. Lee Stanford University, USA
Cooper and Mike Hannah for their work in bringing this reunion together. We hope you enjoy it! Inaugural Lecture - 8 August 2003
Lecture Series in Antarctic Studies, which has
Tamsin Falconer been held annually since 2003. Antarctica's Contribution to Abrupt
VUWAE 50 & 51 and Antarctic Research Centre Manager, Global Warming Events -
for the Reunion Organising Committee The students of the Antarctic Research Centre Past and Future
Professor James Kennett,
have also benefited from the establishment of University of California Santa Barbara, USA
ANDRILL Drill Site on the McMurdo Ice Shelf, November 2006
an Endowed Development Fund for Antarctic 12 August 2004
Research. Donors to the fund have How sensitive is the Antarctic Ice
contributed more than $150,000. Silver Sheet to climate change?
donors include Antarctica New Zealand, An earth-science perspective
David Sugden, Professor of Geography,
Austral Pacific Energy Ltd, Peter Barrett, School of GeoSciences,
Warren Dickinson and Webster Drilling & University of Edinburgh
Exploration Ltd. Bronze donors include Tony 16 June 2005
Allen, Jo Anderson & Matt Paterson, John The Exploration of Antarctic Subglacial
Anderson, Cliff Atkins, Dick Barwick, Daniel Lakes: Science, Logistics and Politics
Martin Siegert, Bristol Glaciology Centre,
Bayliss, Dave Bennett, Alan Beu, Colin Bull,
School of Geographical Sciences,
Roger Cooper, Walter Cousins, Ray Dibble, University of Bristol, UK
Robin & Feriel Falconer, Isobel Gabites, John 20 July 2006
Gamble, Graham Gibson, George Grindley, The Ice Chronicles and
Michael Hambrey, Monica Handler & Richard Rapid Climate Change
Wysoczanski, Mike & June Hannah, David Paul Mayewski, Climate Change Institute,
University of Maine, USA
Hatfield, Jan & Arnold Heine, John Hickman, 26 March 2007
Chris Horne, David Kelly, Jim & Diana Kennett,
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 3
Reunion Programme
SATURDAY 30 JUNE SUNDAY 1 JULY
2 - 4pm: 10am - 12.30pm:
Meet and mingle, set up displays Recollections & reminiscences
Location: Cotton Building, Room 217 Location: Cotton Building, Room 217
Registration & payment, set up memorabilia and slide shows Presentation of recent and current work, Presentations by past VUWAE participants
Afternoon tea available from 2pm Coffee/tea available from 9am
10am Welcome and overview
6pm - late:
Peter Barrett (Antarctic Research Centre Director)
Celebration dinner and Tim Naish (ARC Deputy Director)
Location: VUW Staff Club, Rankin Brown (Library) Building 10.30am Tony Allen & Graham Gibson (VUWAE 3: 1959-60)
Drinks & nibbles from 6-7pm, followed by buffet dinner 10.50am MORNING TEA
After-dinner talk by Richard Barwick, Colin Bull, Barrie McKelvey 11.20am Vince Neall (VUWAE 11: 1966-67)
and Peter Webb (VUWAE 1 & 2) 11.40am Chris Christoffel (VUWAE 11: 1966-67)
Response by Julia Bull and Rod Boys (VUWAE 51: 2006-07) 12.00pm tba
Lower Victoria Valley looking towards Lake Vida 12.30 - 1.30pm:
LUNCH & displays of current research
Location: Antarctic Research Centre (Cotton Building, Rooms 505 & 508)
1.30 - 4pm:
Recollections & reminiscences
Location: Cotton Building, Room 217
Presentations by past VUWAE participants
1:30pm Barry Kohn (VUWAE 13: 1968-69)
1.50pm Rosie Askin (VUWAE 15: 1970-71)
2.10pm Tim Stern (VUWAE 21: 1976-77)
2.30pm AFTERNOON TEA
3pm Ian Wright (VUWAE 24: 1979-80)
3.20pm Cliff Atkins (VUWAE 42: 1997-98)
3.40pm VUWAE 1 & 2
4pm Farewell & close
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 5
Reunion Participants
Allen, Tony Bannister, Stephen Boys, Rod Cody, Rosie Dickinson, Warren Gibson, Graham
1959-60 1980-81 2006-07 Antarctic Research Centre VUWAE 38, 41, 42, 43, 44, 46, 47 VUWAE 3 (1959-60)
loisc@iinet.net.au s.bannister@gns.cri.nz School of Geography, Victoria University of Wellington Warren.Dickinson@vuw.ac.nz grahamgi@paradise.net.nz
Perth, AUSTRALIA GNS Science Environment & Earth Sciences PO Box 600 Antarctic Research Centre 36 Legacy Drive
PO Box 30368 Victoria University of Wellington Wellington NZ Victoria University of Wellington Henderson
Anderson, Jo Lower Hutt NZ PO Box 600 PO Box 600 Waitakere City, 0612 NZ
1997-98, 1998-99, 1999-2000 Wellington NZ Cole, Jim Wellington NZ
Wellington, NZ Barrett, Peter 1964-65 (VUWAE 9) Hannah, Mike
22 seasons between Bull, Colin Jim.Cole@canterbury.ac.nz Dunbar, Gavin 1997-98, 1998-99, 2006-07
Arnot, Malcolm 70/71 and 02/03 VUWAE 2 (1958-59) and Dept of Geological Sciences Gavin.Dunbar@vuw.ac.nz Michael.Hannah@vuw.ac.nz
1989-90, 1990-91 Peter.Barrett@vuw.ac.nz 4 (1960-61) University of Canterbury Antarctic Research Centre School of Geography,
m.arnot@gns.cri.nz 10 Hanson St CBULL61328@earthlink.net Private Bag 4800 Victoria University of Wellington Environment & Earth Sciences
GNS Science Wellington, 6121 NZ 12818 Sunrise Drive Christchurch NZ PO Box 600 Victoria University of
PO Box 30368 Bainbridge Island Wellington NZ Wellington
Lower Hutt NZ Barwick, Richard Washington, 98110m USA PO Box 600
Cooper, Roger
VUWAE I (whilst attached to Falconer, Robin Wellington NZ
1960-61
Ashby, Jeff NZTAE 1956-58) and VUWAE II Carter, John r.cooper@gns.cri.nz Physics expeditions in
1984-85, 1986-87 1965-66, 66-67, 67-68, 68-69 Hansaraj, Dhiresh
Richard.Barwick@anu.edu.au 1992-93 GNS Science
Jeff@websterdrilling.com r.falconer@gns.cri.nz 2005-06, 2006-07
45 Waite St John.Carter@vuw.ac.nz PO Box 30368
Webster Drilling GNS Science Dhiresh.Hansaraj@vuw.ac.nz
Farrer, ACT 2607 AUSTRALIA School of Geography, Lower Hutt NZ
& Exploration Ltd PO Box 30368 Antarctic Research Centre
Environment & Earth Sciences
PO Box 50-354 Lower Hutt NZ Victoria University of Wellington
Bertler, Nancy Victoria University of Wellington Crossland, Lisa PO Box 600
Wellington NZ 1999-2000, 2000-01, PO Box 600 Attending for Ken Woolfe
Falconer, Tamsin Wellington NZ
2001-02, 2003-04, 2004-05, Wellington NZ Lisa.Crossland@jcu.edu.au
Askin, Rosie 2005-06, 2006-07 School of Medicine 2005-06, 2006-07
Haskell, Tom
VUWAE 15 (70/71), 16 (71/72) Nancy.Bertler@vuw.ac.nz, Carter, Lionel Tamsin.Falconer@vuw.ac.nz
James Cook University 1962-63 (VUWAE 6)
& 18 (73/74) Antarctic Research Centre 2002-03, 2005-06, 2006-07 Antarctic Research Centre
Townsville, QLD 4811 haskellsgeos@xtra.co.nz
askin@bresnan.net Victoria University of Wellington Lionel.Carter@vuw.ac.nz Victoria University of Wellington
AUSTRALIA 60 Waterfall Rd
1930 Bunkhouse Dr PO Box 600 Antarctic Research Centre PO Box 600
Raumati South NZ
Jackson, WY 83001 USA Wellington NZ Victoria University of Wellington Wellington NZ
Dibble, Ray
PO Box 600 1974-75, 78-79, 80-81, 82-83, Hunt, Trevor
Atkins, Cliff Brown, Colin Wellington NZ Frost, Andy 1972-1973 (VUWAE 17)
86-87, 87-88, 88-89, 89-90
1997-98, 1998-99, 1999- 1974-75 1976-77 rainbow@reap.org.nz
r.dibble@actrix.co.nz
2000, 2002-03, 2006-07 andy.frost@pernod-ricard-nz.com 41 Rainbow Drive
cbrown@metservice.com Christoffel, David (Chris) 81 Oriel Ave
Cliff.Atkins@vuw.ac.nz 17 Herewini St 99 Maxwell Rd Taupo NZ
1966-67, 1974-75, 1978-79, Tawa
2 Shannon St Titahi Bay NZ Blenheim NZ
1980-81, 1994-95 Wellington, 5028 NZ
Mt Victoria
Chris.Christoffel@clear.net.nz Jackson, Nick
Wellington NZ
98 Waerenga Rd
Gabites, Isobel 1998-99
1982-83 nick@irba.co.nz
Otaki 5512 NZ
Balham, David igabites@xtra.co.nz 72 Buckley Rd
Ron Balham's Son 115 Kaitawa Rd Island Bay
davidbalham@hotmail.com RD1, Otaki NZ Wellington NZ
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 7
Kellett, Richard McKay, Rob Neall, Vince Ross, Alan Trummel, Betty Wood, Matt
1984-85 1998-99, 2005-06, 2006-07 1966-67, 1969-70 1979-80 boop82@aol.com 2003-04
richard.kellett@pxd.com Robert.McKay@vuw.ac.nz V.E.Neall@massey.ac.nz dallross@netaccess.co.nz 7513 Inverway School of Geography,
Pioneer Natural Resources Antarctic Research Centre Institute of Natural Resources 102 Ellis Street Crystal Lake, IL 60014 USA Environment & Earth Sciences
Canada Victoria University of Wellington Massey University Brightwater Victoria University of Wellington
2900, 255-5th Ave SW PO Box 600 Private Bag 11 222 Nelson, 7022 NZ Ward, Barbara PO Box 600
Calgary, Alberta CANADA Wellington NZ Palmerston North NZ 1980-81, 1981-82, 1984-85, Wellington NZ
Shirtcliffe, Tim 1987-88
Keys, Harry McKelvey, Barrie Palmer, Alan 1962-63 Pyne.Ward@xtra.co.nz Wright, Ian
1972-73, 1973-74, 1974-75, VUWAE 1, 2, 13, 24 1975-76 and 1976-77 Tim.Shirtcliffe@xtra.co.nz 30 Kaihuia St 1979-80, 1984-85
1976-77 plus years to 1981 bmckelve@mail.une.edu.au A.S.Palmer@massey.ac.nz 46 Upper Watt St Northland ibwright@paradise.net.nz
fire.ice@xtra.co.nz Earth Sciences Soil and Earth Sciences Wellington, 6012 NZ Wellington, 6012 NZ 13 Scapa Tce
10 Waihora St School of Environmental Massey University Karori
Taupo NZ Sciences & Natural Resources Private Bag 11 222 Smith, Gilbert Webb, Peter Wellington NZ
Management Palmerston North NZ VUWAE 6 (1962-63) 1957-58, 1958-59, 1968-69
Kohn, Barry University of New England gilbert.smith@clear.net.nz webb.3@osu.edu Wysoczanski, Richard
1968-69 and 1970-71 Armidale, NSW 2351 Paterson, Matt PO Box 173 School of Earth Sciences 1991-92
b.kohn@unimelb.edu.au AUSTRALIA 1998-99 Wellington, NZ Bay View 4149 The Ohio State University Richard.Wysoczanski@vuw.ac.nz
School of Earth Sciences Hawkes Bay NZ 125 South Oval Mall School of Geography,
University of Melbourne McPherson, John Plume, Russell Columbus, Ohio 43210 USA Environment & Earth Sciences
Melbourne 1970-71, 1973-74 1973-74 Smith, Ian Victoria University of Wellington
Victoria, 3010 AUSTRALIA john.mcpherson@exxonmobil.com Plimmerton 1965-66 and 1966-67 PO Box 600
ExxonMobil Exploration Wellington NZ (VUWAE 9 and 10) Wellington NZ
Kyle, Philip Company ie.smith@auckland.ac.nz
VUWAE 14 (1969-70), 16 12 Riverside Quay Prebble, Joe Geology - School of 1974 Erebus expedition: from top right: Tazieff 5th, Kyle 7th,
(1971-72), 17 (1972-73), 18 Melbourne, VIC 3006 joseph_prebble@URSCorp.com Geography, Geology and Dibble 2nd; Bottom near placard: left, Shaun Norman
(1973-74) and 19 (1974-75) AUSTRALIA 17 Mahina Road Environmental Sciences (NZ leader), above Le Guern, right Werner Giggenbach
kyle@nmt.edu Lower Hutt University of Auckland
Dept of Earth & Naish, Tim Wellington NZ PB92019
Environmental Science 2005-06, 2006-07 Auckland Mail Centre, 1142 NZ
New Mexico Institute of t.naish@gns.cri.nz Pyne, Alex
Mining and Technology Antarctic Research Centre 1977-78 continuously to 2006-07 Stern, Tim
Socorro, NM 87801 USA Victoria University of Wellington Alex.Pyne@vuw.ac.nz 1976-77
PO Box 600 Antarctic Research Centre Tim.Stern@vuw.ac.nz
Mackay, Kevin Wellington NZ Victoria University of Wellington School of Geography,
1988-89 PO Box 600 Environment & Earth
k.mackay@niwa.co.nz Wellington NZ Sciences
NIWA Victoria University of
Private Bag 14901 Wellington
Kilbirnie PO Box 600
Wellington NZ Wellington NZ
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 9
The Birth of VUWAE
By Trevor Hatherton,
reprint from Tuatara, Journal of the Biological Society, “Exploration is the Physical Expression
of the Intellectual Passion ”
Victoria University of Wellington, Vol.15 (1967), pp100-102.
On December 30, 1957 I drove a tractor Webb and McKelvey the original students are
across the sea ice from Scott Base to meet 10 years older now, and approaching the peak —Apsley Cherry-Garrard
H.M.N.Z.S. 'Endeavour', preparing to tie up years of their professional life, no longer
about 9 miles from the base. I was naturally students, though they can't convince me of as it must in the New Zealand Antarctic And what of the future? Every young man's
keen to begin unloading the ship and to meet that. The success of their work and the Programme, the number of fields of enquiry first expedition is an adventure so there
the members of the incoming party. After subsequent VUWAE expeditions have been can only be increased at the cost of a loss in should be no slackening in the attraction of
being introduced to the new party I noticed a based on two things-their personal attributes intensity in each field. At other times it Antarctica. Scientifically, the problems are
couple of rangy youths to whom I had not and the persistent character of R. H. Clark, seemed that too many staff were spending too even more interesting now that enough data
been introduced, and who were obviously not Professor of Geology. If an unfavourable short a time down there, but this is probably a has been gathered, enough ideas formulated,
members of either the wintering party or the impression had been left by Webb and product of this fragmentation. However, I feel, to allow the synthesis which is the art of
ship's crew. 'Who are these two young - - - -?' McKelvey during that hectic summer of 1957-8 if possible, that University Expeditions should science, and the testing of the model which is
I said. 'Them-oh they're university students', subsequent Victoria University expeditions consist of senior students left to their own the science of science. We are no longer
says Lyn Martin the incoming leader, and would have been hard to launch. As it was, devices once the problem has been outlined 'stamp collecting' in Antarctica, and there
then seeing the look in my eyes hastily their demeanour was exemplary. No scientific by staff in consultation with the students. The must be an exciting future there.
followed up with-'now-don't blame me'. studies are of any use until published, and as ability to sustain a scientifically productive
prompt publication of research is insisted season in the Ross Dependency unaided is a But for the present, to the pioneers Webb
There they were, the first two of them, tremendous test of self-reliance as well as of and McKelvey, to the succeeding teams, and
upon by Professor Clark the first VUWAE Dry
uninvited, unheralded and unwanted. With a research capacity. Admittedly some will drown to the general, Professor Clark, I offer my
Valleys papers were among the earliest
limited base staff, unlimited American through being thown into the deep-end, but congratulations on a remarkably long-
substantial contributions to the records of
visitors, Hillary 'hell-bent for the pole' and the list of those who have emerged with great sustained endeavour in exploration
New Zealand's research effort in Antarctica.
four other parties in the field, unloading and credit from VUWAE expeditions is impressive. and research.
The first favourable impression, dependent
changeover problems and the possibility of
upon the attitude of Webb and McKelvey,
Bunny Fuchs and party having to winter over
backed by prompt publication, the fruit of
at Scott Base, neither I nor anyone else was
departmental (i.e. professorial) policy, was a
enthusiastic about supernumaries without
combination not to be denied. VUWAE
any place in the long prepared plans.
became established.
Somehow, and I have no clear recollection of
how they achieved it, these two students Since 1957, ten other expeditions have gone
'infiltrated' a couple of non-geological parties and come. Some didn't earn unqualified
intending to study the lakes of the so-called approval from me for I thought their aims
dry valleys. As a result of their work during fragmented, but the later expeditions have
the next few weeks the dry valleys became had to investigate the ever-increasing
Dry Valleys, and during the next few years number of problems that has arisen from the Nansen, Tamworth
early surveys. Simple logic tells us that if the and manhaul sledges
probably the most intensively studied parts
at Scott Base ca.1995
of the Antarctic Continent. number of man-months of work has a limit,
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 11
Members of VUWAE: 1957-2007
VUWAE 1 - 1957/58 Gorton, M. Adams, J. E. Palmer, A.
McKelvey, B. C. Murrell, B. Shorland, J. Anderson, J.
Webb, P. N. Cousins, W. J. Frost, A.
Blong, R. VUWAE 18 - 1973/74 Robinson, P.
VUWAE 2 - 1958/59 Crump, J. M. Keys, J. R.
Bull. C. B. B. VUWAE 14 - 1969/70 Kyle, R. A. Stern, T.
Barwick, R. Neall, V. E. McPherson, J. G. Nankervis, J.
McKelvey, B. C. Vucetich, C. G. Plume, R. W. Palmer, J.
Webb, P. N. Kyle, P. R. Rowe, G. H. Wicks, B.
Bull, C. B. B. Topping, W. W. Blackwood, K.
*Clark, R. H. Kyle, P. R. VUWAE 22 - 1977/78
VUWAE 15 - 1970/71 Keys, J. R. McKelvey, B.
VUWAE 3 - 1959/60 Barrett, P. J. Luckman, P. Pyne, A.
Balham, R. W. VUWAE8, Photo: Bruce Popplewell Kohn, B. P. Cooper, R. Johnston, J. H.
*Wheeler, R. H. Grapes, R. H. Logan, N.
Allen, A. D. VUWAE 7 - 1962/63 VUWAE 10 - 1965/66 Askin, R.A. VUWAE 19 - 1974/75 Metson, J.
Gibson, G. Shirtcliffe, T. Ghent, E. McPherson, J. G. Plume, R. W. Robinson, P. H.
Willis, I. A. G. Benseman, R. F. Henderson, R. A. Reid, D. Saxby, E. Hull, A.
Popplewell, K. B. Hancox, G. Ritchie, A. Keys, J. R. Fowlie, W.
VUWAE 4 - 1960/61 Smith, I. Young, G. Kyle, P. R. Nalder, N.
Wheeler, R. H. VUWAE 8 -1963/64 Dibble, R.
Blank, H. R. Prebble, W. VUWAE 11 - 1966/67 VUWAE 16 - 1971/72 Barrett, P. J. VUWAE 23 - 1978/79
Bull, C. B. B. Wilson, A. T. *Wellman, H. W. Laird, M. G. Powell, R. W. Christoffel, D. A.
Cooper, R. *Wellman, H. W. Christoffel, D. A. Andrews, P. B. Stevens, J. Mroczek, C. R.
Willis, I. A. G. Henderson, R. A. Calheim, I. M. Kyle, P. R. Rainsbury, R. Garden, P.
Hoare, R. Duncan, A. Jennings, P. Vucetich, C. G. Pyne, A.
VUWAE 5 - 1961/62 House, D. A. Neall, V. Barrett, P. J. Robinson, P. Dibble, R.
Wellman, H. W. Popplewell, K. B. Smith, I. Askin, R. A. Christoffel, D. A. Giggenbach, W.
Wilson, A. T. Bright, D. Northey, D. Tazieff, H.
*Clark, R. H. VUWAE 9 - 1964/65 VUWAE 12 - 1967/68 Chinn, A. Brown, C. Fink, C.
*Wheeler, R. H. Prebble, W. *Wellman, H. W. Bamford, D. Monteath, C.
Vella, P. P. Vucetich, C. Barrett, P. J.
VUWAE 6 - 1962/63 Cole, J. Wright, A. VUWAE 17 - 1972/73 VUWAE 20 - 1975/76 Robinson, P. H.
Willis, I. A. G. Ewart, A. Wilson, A. T. Freeman, A. Collen, J. D. C. Bentley, P. N.
Rich, C. C. Frame, A. Hendy, C. Keys, J. R. Eggers, A. Pyne, A.
Haskell, T. Hoare, R. Calheim, I. Crump, J. Barrett, P. J. *Ross, S.
Kennett, J. Bradley, J. Cousins, W. J. Allis, R. Sillars, K. J. Burgess, C.
Smith, G. J. Palmer, D. Hunt, T. M. Palmer, A. Anderson, J.
Prebble, W. Schafer, F. VUWAE 13 - 1968/69 Blackwood, K. Robinson, P. H. Keys, H.
Zimmerman, D. Webb, P. N. Kyle, P. R. Cashman, K.
Baker, A. McKelvey, B. C. Cole, J. W. VUWAE 21 - 1976/77 Höfle
Bell, R. Kohn, B. P. Burgess, C. J. Grund
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 13
VUWAE 24 - 1979/80 McKelvey, B. Pyne, A. VUWAE 31 - 1986/87
Barrett, P. J. Walker, B. Barrett, P. J. Falkner, K.
Pyne, A. Dibble, R. Macpherson, A. J. Barrett, P. J.
Froggatt, P. C. Otway, P. Curry, P. Pyne, A.
Sissons, B. A. Craddock, N. Watson, J. Hall, K.
Waghorn, D. B. Kyle, P. Fitzgerald, P. Chambray, M.
Ross, A. McIntosh, W. Webster, M. Robinson, P.
Walker, B. Estes, S. Reick, H.
Wright, I. Marshall, D. VUWAE 29 - 1984/85 Wada, H.
White, P. Shibuya, K. Barrett, P. Ashby, J.
McPherson, A. Terai, K. Pyne, A. Hardy, E.
Williams, F. Okyama, M. Ashby, J. Mills, C.
Members of VUWAE 29 preparing for a GPR
McKelvey, B. Pyne, A. Macpherson, A. Morris, B.
traverse on the Campbell Glacier
Brady, H. Ward, B. Pillans, B. Belgrave, V.
Fink, C. Barrett, P. J. Ward, B. White, P.
Alloway, B. Wright, I. Davy, B. McConchie, J. Atkinson, B.
VUWAE 25 - 1980/81 Catterly, M. Neale, G. Alder, G. Winchester, D. Griffiths, C.
Reid, F. Gleadow, A. Haanen, A. Pyne, A. Dawson, P.
Simmons, S. Fitzgerald, P. Komura, K. Alder, G. Wilson, G. VUWAE 35 - 1990/91
Christoffel, D. A. Main, L. Olsen, J. Dibble, R. Pyne, A. Woolfe, J.
Iles, D. Kellett, R. Barrett, S. Perrett, T. Arnot, M.
Bannister, S. VUWAE 27 - 1982/83 Korsch, R. Sole, P. Barrett, P.
Dibble, R. Walker, B. A. George, A. VUWAE 32 - 1987/88 Francis, J.
Kyle, P. Gabites, H. I. Gamble, J. Dibble, R. VUWAE 34 - 1989/90 Smith, N.
McIntosh, W. Hosted, M. Vincent, S. Ball, T. *Woolfe, K. Pyne, A.
Estes, S. Korsch, R. Belgrave, V. Ellis, S. Arnot, M. Dibble, R.
Kienle, J. Napp, B. Fitzgerald, P. Lassky, S. Zwartz, D. Beaglehole, D.
Osada, N. Dibble, R. Patterson, Pyne, A. Dibble, R. Carter, G.
Takanami, T. Paintin, I. Ward, B. O'Brien, B. Ryan, K.
Terai, K. Pyne, A. VUWAE 30 - 1985/86 Armstrong, B. Shimizu, H. Exley, R.
Pyne, A. Barrett, P. J. K Palmer Shane, P. Pyne, A. Gamble, J.
Ward, B. Macpherson, A. J. P White Blake, G. Goodwin, I.
Fitzgerald, P. McLeod, M. Pyne, A. Zurita, F. Moller, P. VUWAE 36 - 1991/92
Garrick, B. Bell, L. Kelly, D. Faloon, G. McConchie, J. Pyne, A.
Fink, C. McLeod, M. Macpherson, A. Anderson, B. Winchester, D. Broughton, E.
Neale, G. Tinnely Dawkings, R. Hawke, R. Powell, R.
Mortimer, N. Hawke Fitzgerald, P. VUWAE 33 - 1988/89 Campbell, H. Heaphy, S.
*Woolfe, K. *Woolfe, K. Trodahl, J. Statham, D.
VUWAE 26 - 1981/82 VUWAE 28 - 1983/84 Henare, J. Riches, S. Falloon, G.
Barrett, P. J. Falkner, C. Gillespie, G. Gamble, J. Gamble, J.
Fitzgerald, P. Boteler, D. Dibble, R. Teeling, T. Brooker, J.
Walker, B. Welink, R. Mackay, K. Smellie, J. Wysoczanski, R.
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 15
VUWAE 37 - 1992/93 Webb, P. Dickinson, Warren
Pyne, A. Dickinson, W. Holme, Phil
Anderson B. Goff, J. Hiemstra, John
Carter, J. Jennings, I. Mitchell, Jeremy
Gee, E. Cooper, P. Van der Meer, Jaap
Rennie, A. Devries, J. Hicock, Steve
Grube, P. Webster, B. Lloyd Davies, Mark
Trodahl, J. Prebble, Joe
Buckley, R. VUWAE 42 - 1997/98
Beaglehole, D. Barrett, P. VUWAE 45- 2000/2001
Henrys, S. Pyne, A. Pyne, Alex
Pyne, A. Anderson, Jo. Dickinson, Warren
Gamble, J. Atkins, C. Kingan, Tony
Hannah, M. Cooper, Pat
VUWAE 38 - 1993/94 Butler, E. Kingan, Glen
Wizevich, M. Lambeck, A. Pollard, Wayne
Thornley, S. Quinn, Julie. Hickock, Steve Members of VUWAE 29 at Campbell Glacier
*Woolfe, K. Bowman, Vanessa. Hose, Chris
Pyne, A. Schlüchter, C. Holme, Phil Barrett, Peter VUWAE 49 - 2004/05 Sletten, Ron
Rennie, A. Tcernio, S. Bornholdt, Carl Dunbar, Gavin Bayliss, Dan Williams, Gretchen
Singh, L. Bertler, Nancy Robinson, Natalie Bertler, Nancy
Leslie, R. VUWAE 43 - 1998/99 Ayling, Bridget Mason, Dougal Cavanagh, Mike VUWAE 51 - 2006/07
Hackney, R. Barrett, P. Hendrikx, Jordy Leitch, Johno Kipfstuhl, Sepp Atkins, Cliff
Butler, E. Niessen, Frank Kingan, Tony Barrett, Peter
VUWAE 39 - 1994/95 Anderson, J. VUWAE 46 - 2001/2002 Nixdorf, Uwe Pyne, Alex Carroll, Dene
Christoffel, D. Atkins, C. Pyne, Alex Dunker, Eric Dickinson, Warren Carter, Lionel
Wooler, A. Jackson, N. Balfour, Natalie Pringle, Daniel Hyland, Leigh Dunbar, Gavin
Bleakley, N. Pyne, A. Horgan, Huw Trodahl, Joe Mackintosh, Andrew Falconer, Tamsin
Pyne, A. Patterson, M. Henderson, Ricky Carter, Lionel Zwartz, Dan Hannah, Mike
Anderson B. McKay, R. Bertler, Nancy Riesselmann, Christina Hansaraj, Dhiresh
Hackney, R. Hannah, M. Patterson, Nora Giorgetti, Giovanna VUWAE 50 - 2005/06 McKay, Rob
Quinn, J. Hiemstra, J. Hill, Matt Carter, Lionel Naish, Tim
Haver, A. Van der Meer, J. Dickinson, Warren VUWAE 48 - 2003/04 Dunbar, Gavin Pyne, Alex
Tammick, Sarah Bertler, Nancy Falconer, Tamsin Bertler, Nancy
VUWAE 40 - 1995/96 VUWAE 44 - 1999/2000 Hopkins, Karyn Christie, Louise Hansaraj, Dhiresh Boys, Rod
Pyne, A. Anderson, Jo Pyne, Alex McKay, Rob Bull, Julia
Atkins, Cliff VUWAE 47 - 2002/2003 Watson, Matt Naish, Tim Kingan, Glen
VUWAE 41 - 1996/97 Barrett, Peter Pyne, Alex Wood, Matt Pyne, Alex Kipfstuhl, Sepp
Pyne, A. Hannah, Mike Atkins, Cliff Bertler, Nancy Robinson, Davie
Shulmeister, J. Jackson, Nick Dickinson, Warren Dickinson, Warren Watson, Matt
Butler, E. Pyne, Alex Colebatch, Camilla Schiller, Martin
Quinn, J. Bertler, Nancy Wilson, Nicola *Deceased
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 17Recollections of the first 50 Years
my little tent still standing at the west end of voice and CW we struggled to send. It was a
A 50 year trip with Lake Vanda. There they ate the meal I had left wonderful experience. We never dreamed it
Barrie and Peter for them, stewed steak and vegetables, and would continue for another 47 years…and more!
When Barrie McKelvey and Peter then tinned pineapple. They rested for an hour
Webb stepped on board the or two, and then sledged back across the lake
HMNZS Endeavour they had no to Main Base, with their specimens. Barrie
asked us to excuse the smoke coming from his
VUWAE 3 (1959/60) Tony Allen
idea of the legacy that was to
follow them. In 50 years since, armpits. While they waited for the meal I was The purpose of our 67 day expedition into the
much has changed but much has cooking for them, they had a little snack, Victoria Valley area was to extend the work of
remained. For most of us, our first which started with 10 Weetabix each and 3/4 VUWAE 1 and 2 in geological mapping,
trip to Antarctica was a 'life of a 2-pound tin of golden syrup between surveying, palaeomagnetic sampling and
changing' experience, but each of them. Well, one Weetabix makes a rather biology. The expedition team comprised staff
us was infected in unique ways. skimpy breakfast, but two of them are enough and students from Victoria University: Ron
Antarctica has changed little in 50 for most folk. Dick and I watched open- Balham (leader), Ralph Wheeler, Graham
years and still doggedly guards her mouthed, with admiration and astonishment, Gibson, Ian Willis, and Tony Allen. We formed
scientific secrets like never before. as they demolished the lot. And then they had an enquiring, happy team.
To some it may seem that the Dry dinner! But it really was a remarkable walk!
And, come to that, they also showed a totally The work achieved by the expedition was
Valleys have been 'done to death', Peter Webb (left) and Barrie McKelvey
commensurate ability to eat. mainly by field traverses from a base camp at
yet no where else is it so obvious that (Photo: M.D.King)
Lake Vashka (Barwick Valley) and from three
the more we learn, the less we know.
Well, John Glenn, first US earth circler, went satellite food dumps near Lake Vida,
In Antarctica we no longer map and survey to learn what is there, but we now collect and analyse
back with a very much later space mission. In Apocalypse Peak, and Miller Glacier area,
micro samples to answer global questions. We are overjoyed to reflect back along with Barrie
the same way I am now collecting volunteers established by a U.S. Navy helicopter. The
and Peter, but we are humbled to realize that some who reflect in the following pages will be
for a return visit to Wright Valley. Successful traverses radiated from these areas and
doing so again in 50 years.
Warren Dickinson and Tamsin Falconer applicants must be prepared to carry me back covered an area extending from Purgatory
up Peak 16, as it was before we named it. Peak in the east to Mt Bastian in the west and
for up to 20km to the north and south, an area
of about 700 sq. km.
VUWAE 2 (1958-59) Colin Bull upper depot (on south shoulder of Wright
Valley, at 5300 feet altitude, near Wright VUWAE 3 (1959-60) Graham Gibson The valleys are 3 to 6km wide and the valley
VUWAE 1 was a marvelous, serendipitous
Upper Glacier). They walked the 21 miles to We had a great leader in Ron Balham and all floors are veneered with glacial moraine,
jaunt by Peter (Webb) and Barrie (McKelvey).
Main Base in 6 hours and when Dick worked as a great team. None of our work glacial outwash deposits, pediments and local
VUWAE 2 was my fourth polar expedition, but
congratulated them on this achievement, would have been possible if it had not been for eolian dunes. They are relatively flat and vary
my first complete university expedition to the
Barrie explained that it had only been the fantastic support that we got from the from smooth to very rough. The valley walls
Antarctic. We can't pretend that we were an
possible by their choice of rest spots. They Americans (and also the RNZAF). The Snowcat were up to 1000m high, very steep and mainly
independent expedition because of the
only stopped where there was a shallow accident on 20th November was very sad and covered with coarse scree. Various small
necessary logistical help, but we did decide
puddle nearby and Barrie noted that when sobering for us all, and also the Beaver crash. glaciers and snowfields occurred in the areas
for ourselves what we wished to do.
they sat in the puddle there was always a flanking the valleys.
One day things were getting hectic. The boys short, sharp sizzle. At Main Base they ate and We would hope that the begging letters to get
(Barrie and Peter) were near the lower depot slept for 6 hours and then pressed on to the supplies have long since gone, and that The traverses required exhausting physical
at the Wright Lower Glacier but felt that they upper depot, another very long walk as well modern technology has eliminated some of the effort carrying heavy packs. The rough and
must retrieve their rock specimens from the as a 5300 feet climb, and then back down to problems with dodgy Skeds and the laboured steep terrain limited the amount of work
achieved. Our work was further limited by the
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 19developments in Antarctic geology. With a few surveyor on the team, whilst my task was to
reservations, I believe we made a small but collect orientated paleo-mag samples for Colin
useful contribution to Antarctic geology, as Bull. The first night we pitched the two-man
well as providing a link in the chain of VUWAE pup tent, I offered to make Ralph a drink
expeditions over the last 50 years. flavoured with 'lemon crystals' which he
readily accepted. The drink was made to the
strength I like and a mug handed to Ralph. A
few seconds later there was a huge splutter
VUWAE 3 (1959-60) Ian Willis and explosion with Ralph accusing me of
In traveling to McMurdo on the 'Globemaster', giving him battery acid. From there on out, I
which had a huge Caterpillar bulldozer in the made his as weak as p…..
hold, we realized we were very much
secondary cargo. Before take-off one of the Our main base camp was established at the
crew members came to demonstrate the use western end of Victoria Valley with a subsidiary
of the “survival suit”. His opening phrase was food dump put in at the eastern end. After a
“should anything go wrong before the point brief acclimatization period it was decided to
Ron Balham, Ralph Wheeler, Tony Allen, Graham Gibson and Ian Willis of no return, we will return to ChiChi, after head east and then work back to base camp.
(left to right) in the Victoria Valley. that you will be required to put on this Back-packing was the only means of transport
survival suit”. Where-upon he proceeded to and everything we might need was crammed
lack of suitable maps and aerial photographs passing interest in Antarctic geology. into our packs (including rather useless items
show us how to pull on the survival suit,
at appropriate scales for regional or detailed such as mukluks) and off we set, tramping into
My participation in VUWAE 3 has formed less which had a huge tear down one of the legs.
mapping. a “fresh” head wind. After a couple of hours,
than 2% of my geological career. It has not At the end of the demonstration he stated, “of
The work achieved was mainly of a greatly influenced what I have done but course, yours will not have a tear in it, but we could clearly see our objective site and
reconnaissance nature. Many features such perhaps the seeds of my career in does it matter? Survival time without a suit is decided to stop for “lunch”. Mistake number
as stromatolites and other features observed hydrogeology were sown when I studied frost about a minute, with it maybe up to five 1, not appreciating the clarity of the
at Lake Vida, glacial geology and polygons and saline soils at Lake Vashka. minutes. If you think we could get a
geomorphology, and the multiple intrusion During field mapping in Western Australia I rescue aircraft on site in that time, you Ian Willis sun bathing in Miers Valley.
and differentiation within the lower dolerite encountered an older but similar style of are sadly mistaken. Best of luck”.
sill were noted and sampled but not studied. geology in the Kimberley region and my
On our first trip in the chopper over
In hindsight, it would have been very Antarctic experience undoubtedly influenced
the Dry Valleys, my colleagues and I
rewarding to have studied these features some of my work.
were all amazed at the sheer grandeur
more closely.
Despite this, the expedition to and from of the area. At one point, whilst flying
Following our expedition I did not continue Antarctica and into the Dry Valleys has been over one of the remnant glaciers, I
my interest in Antarctic geology. I seriously one of the unforgettable experiences of my remarked to the cabin crew member,
broke my leg in a sporting accident and it was life. I feel privileged to have been amongst “what a spectacular sight”. He opened
imperative to complete my MSc (the geology the first to have set foot in the beautiful, one bleary eye and said, “seen one,
of the Awatere Valley, New Zealand) to obtain pristine, forbidding environment which we seen 'em all!”. Where-upon said eye
work. In the latter case I made the very happy found. It has had a profound effect on my closed again.
choice of joining the Geological Survey of views about life and nature. I regret not
Once we left base camp, I was
Western Australia. As a result I retained only maintaining contact with team members and
partnered with Ralph Wheeler, the
limited contact with the team members, and not keeping up to date with the exciting
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 21atmosphere it was many, many more hours After a comfortable night camped on the VUWAE 4 (1960-61) Roger Cooper just as bold. The Christmas drambuie helped.
before we reached our goal, tired and glacier we set off in a straight line for the So we all ended up splashing about in the near
On Christmas Day, 1960, Colin Bull, Ian Willis
extremely hungry. Before eating, mistake peak with me in front “breaking step” in the freezing water. Ian Willis discovered that the
and I were camped in the Miers Valley, Koettlitz
number 2 occurred when one of our party softish snow cover. About five minutes away dark coloured moraine of the valley side had
Glacier area. The other two members of our
(who will remain anonymous) decided to have from our campsite and within a nanosecond absorbed enough heat from the sun to enable
expedition (VUWAE 5), Ralph Wheeler and Dick
a pee. Moments later he was rolling on the of putting my weight on my forward foot, my sun bathing and he lay there afterwards for
Blank, had been out geologising for the day.
ground in agony - hot urine through a chilled brain registered that the snow sagged a bit about 15 minutes, long enough for us all to get
They returned to camp excited as puppies.
member - OUCH! (The female field workers between two semi-parallel lines - you have photographic evidence. Was this the first
They had just seen a “wall of water” coming
will no doubt be having a giggle!). After that probably guessed what I realised that fraction “swim” in a flowing river in the Ross
down the otherwise dry Miers Valley stream
we used to stuff one of our leather sledging too late! A second or so later I was about 10 Dependency? I suspect so. Not many people
bed. Apparently, an ice dam had melted and
mits inside our fly when there was a head to 12 ft below the surface on a snow bridge are that silly.
melt water from the Miers Glacier was flowing.
wind. with no direct sunlight, a very limited view
They had spent half an hour constructing a In the early VUWAE expeditions, most supplies
and drop offs of several 10s of feet on each
Another trait of Ralph's was that he could fall dam across it, from rocks and sand. Being had to be cadged from importers,
side (you must remember this was in the pre-
asleep anywhere at any time. To collect an dedicated scientists, we all decided to take the manufacturers and retailers, as funds for this
metric era!!). Given my initial shock and
orientated sample took about 20 minutes, following day, Boxing Day, off and worked on purpose were strictly limited. For VUWAE 5, a
expletives (which I won't repeat), my next
and once I had selected a convenient spot, the dam. For research purposes, of course. local tobacco firm supplied us with copious
thought was “s… our rope is several hours
Ralph would stretch out on the terrain, no Then someone decided that we should go for a quantities of tobacco. We found that it was
away”. About that moment Ralph's head
matter how rocky and fall asleep. This in itself swim in the pool of melt water. Once one rolling tobacco so we took plenty of tobacco
popped over the topside followed by an
did not bother me, but his snoring was person had stripped off his clothes and papers. Needless to say, this was in the pre-
expletive and “thank goodness you are OK!”.
something to be believed and many a time I jumped in, the rest of us had to prove we were cancer scare era. Roll-your-own cigarettes
Small comfort! After a few minutes debate,
was tempted to throw a rock at him. during which the intense cold was starting to
strike, we realized the crevasse was just the Dick Blank and Ralph Wheeler in the dammed up Miers River.
It is possible that I can claim one of the
right width to wedge our ice-axes across to
dubious “honours” of a VUWAE member - that
use as climbing rungs to get out, with Ralph
of being the only one to fall down a crevasse!
pulling like fury on my arm for that last few
About a week after a particularly physically
feet. Fate does not recall how we got the
tiring tramp with heavy backpacks from our
lower ice-axe out but the handles of both
main base camp at the head of Victoria Valley
were split. Needless to say we got off that
to a subsidiary camp at the seaward end of
glacier as quickly as possible and kept to
the valley, Ralph Wheeler and I set off to
visible hard rock for the rest of the trip. Ralph
triangulate a peak on our way back to base
and I joked about the episode later - his
camp. Given our experience of the outward
account being something like, “I was about
march we were travelling as light as we
100 ft behind you, looking down as I trudged
thought possible but decided to shed a few
along in your footsteps on a nice sunny day
unnecessary articles such as the field radio,
without a care in the world. Suddenly there
climbing rope, etc as we headed up a valley to
was a grunt and I looked up but you were
a remnant glacier which would give good
nowhere to be seen - but, oh s…, there was a
access to the peak chosen as a survey point.
hole in the snow! Damn (translation of
The diehards had advised that these remnant
expletive), I was glad to see you when I
glaciers did not have crevasses.
peered over the edge!!”.
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 23turned out to be not too successful in the dry southern Koettlitz area, draining east from day to pick them up. This much was clear but
and cold Antarctic climate. You had to Mount Huggins in the Royal Society Range, then reception deteriorated. The last bit of the
manipulate the tobacco, roll it in the paper, the Pipecleaner Glacier. I can't recall what message was that the rocks were to be “about
then lick the gum strip and stick it down, with reason we gave the Geographic Board for the the size of an ordinary house brick”. However,
freezing glove-less hands. But more often name but it would not have been the real reception failed altogether and we did not
than not, the tobacco had dried out and just reason. hear the word, “brick”. We had no idea of
crumbled to dust inside the paper roll. The what was wanted and spent some time in
result was that after you put the cigarette in In December 1960, about half way through the amused debate about how to get a collection
your mouth, but before you could get the VUWAE 5 expedition to map the Koettlitz of house-sized rocks into a helicopter. In the
lighter to it, all the tobacco slid out of the Glacier area, we were mapping in the plateau end, we collected up hand specimen-sized
paper tube and on to the ground. Ever country between Miers Valley and the Walcott examples of Vanda porphyry and other VUWAE8, Photo: Bruce Popplewell
resourceful, we found the answer was to wrap Glacier. We slept in standard, light-weight, attractive rocks, which were eventually used
a wad of tobacco in wet toilet paper and keep alpine “pup” tents as all our gear, food etc. for decoration of the memorial, built in the
it in a plastic bag. was back-packed and had to be light. Radio shape of a polar tent, on top of Mount Vic. The nasty looking black holes in the fragile snow
scheds were held regularly twice a week and memorial was later refurbished with larger, bridges is still very clear.
Another item generously supplied free was although we were only 100 km from Scott more respectable, “brick-sized” Antarctic
pipe cleaners. One of the “old hands” had Base, we were in a “shadow” area. Using Exploring and mapping these two areas was
rocks, and can be seen today.
advised us that these were handy for tying up heavy, and not very efficient, commando radio such fun: Amazing views at 2400m from
plastic sample bags and we had requested 60 sets (no doubt cadged from the Army), our Midnight plateau of the Darwin and Hatherton
dozen. When we unpacked our supplies down reception was poor and we often could not nevees on totally clear minus 40oC evenings,
south, we found we had been given 60 dozen make clear contact. On this occasion we VUWAE 6 (1962-63) Warwick Prebble sparkling ice crystals tumbling out of a clear
packets of pipe cleaners. The result was we received the message that we were to make a night sky on Christmas Eve 1962, elegant
In 1962 we explored the hitherto largely
had pipe cleaners coming out of our ears. collection of rocks representative of the area, pyramid mountains of fractured chocolate
unknown and untrodden Brown Hills and
After every camp site clean-up, there was to be used in the planned memorial to brown dolerite, honey coloured and bright pink
Darwin Mountains around and through which
always the inevitable pipe cleaner still lying Admiral Byrd, which was to be constructed in layers of Beacon sandstone all warm and
the Darwin Glacier flows at 79o south. These
around. So we named a glacier in the Wellington. A helicopter was arriving the next inviting in the midnight sun, on all sides deep
ice-free areas and well exposed mountain
blue ice falls and marble-like expanses of
sides were very inviting amongst the maze of
gleaming white glaciers. We were a JATO
Travel on the Skeleton Neve with VUWAE 15 huge crevassed glaciers such as the Byrd to
expedition - some 32 or so bottles in all to lift
the south and the Mulock to the north. At first
our loaded plane on its several flights. The raw
sight I remember the Darwin Glacier looked
excitement of twin bank JATO blasts and
fairly benign. We had hoped to haul our sledge
thundering motors hardly fades in the memory.
across it to the Darwin Mountains from our
base camp at a cosy place, which we called Special moments regularly come to mind: the
Erewhon by some frozen ponds in the Brown first night in our little Meade tents on the
Hills. From the top of Bastion Hill about 1000m Touchdown Glacier when the fog which nearly
above Erewhon I saw some enormous prevented our landing and certainly hastened
crevasses partly concealed beneath thin snow the Dak's swift departure rolled away after
bridges and we decided not to attempt a very midnight to reveal a silent, sunlit, breathtaking
risky crossing on foot. Later were lifted across vista of icy mountains, spangling snow fields
by Dakota. I recall watching the shadow of our and rocky nunataks; a motionless landscape
plane take a perceptible time to pass over and see-for-ever views; threading our way up
each of these huge slots. The sight of the through massive pink granites, tourmaline
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 25We were led in the science by ourselves and mires and salt ponds, the rich colours of the
our mentors - there were the not-to-be rocks and mountains, the contrast of the blue
forgotten discussions between Harold Wellman ice falls and white steep-walled glacier tongues
and Alec Wilson. Their direction and example which flowed over the valley side and floors
was inspiring. Memories include the visits by and the high and remote camp sites under the
Brian Talboys, Minister of Science and Adrian ever changing sky. It is tempting to compare
Hayter, Leader of Scott Base. Their visit was the feast of colour, topography and desert
followed by several days of blizzard and strong landforms to that of the Grand Canyon of the
winds which lashed us on Brown Peninsula. Colorado at twilight - but with the added
Without snow piling up other ways of keeping spectacle of eternal low lighting, dramatic
your tents fixed down on rock and soil must be clarity, views limited by distance only and the
devised. Some of the new comers to Antarctica total stillness and silence when the wind stops.
did not sleep for a few days as the wind and
drift shrieked past and the tent poles hummed Other recollections are of the journeys to
to the tune of the blast. Many of the team did and from the ice in Hercules, the super
not venture outside for some time. We even constellation “Phoenix” and that veteran of
managed to have an old polar tent, in spite of the ice - the big old piston engine
being pitched firmly, break a bamboo pole. Globemaster. I shall not forget the
Globemaster having an engine failure one
Another visit was from my brother Michael hour out of Christchurch. Oil streamed from
VUWAE8, Photo: Bruce Popplewell when we were moved to the Koettlitz. We were the engine cowling and anxious flight crew
lucky as siblings to share the experience of peered at it with search lights. We treated it
pegmatites, pallisades of columnar dolerite at night. Silence shattered by ice falls being together in Antarctica. I shall always all as fun especially the hearty meal of steak
and layers of conglomerate and sandstone; avalanching off hanging glaciers. Some very remember the heat wave which ensued in the etc at the US base when we returned to fix it
the game of cricket on the glacier while windy days with snow plumes streaming off Koettlitz and the Dry Valleys. Water flowing in up before taking off again. Then 11 hours later
waiting to fly back to Scott Base - extended the tops. stream channels, lake levels rising, the magnificent sight of the mountains of
with the Dak crew who signed our bat; temperatures of plus 3 and 4, sunny calm days Northern Victoria Land. One also does not
sunbathing in dry still air at minus 10. Well The Dry Valleys, Black Island, Brown - it was difficult to find enough time to sleep. forget the Hercules flight which ran into in bad
ahead of schedule, we were able to spend Peninsula and Koettlitz were the territory for Other memories are of the long traverses of the weather - unable to return and landing so
January in the Taylor Valley. VUWAEs 8 and 9. Each team was a diverse ice free areas, lots of drillholes in the lakes, expertly in poor visibility at McMurdo.
and committed group of individuals from and an occasion when two of us broke through
The Taylor is a magic place. Memories of the many disciplines and with different tasks, all the thin ice on the moat of Lake Bonney and Antarctica was for me and probably for all of
24 hour traverse from the coast to the Taylor driving towards a common plan. That in itself floundered to shore. It was good to get into our us in some way a milestone if not a turning
Glacier snout with Tom Haskell, Colin Bull and was a fairly unique experience for us at the spare clothing which we always had in our point in our careers. The memories of
his gravity meter are special; The long cool time. It was matched by novel scientific packs and watch the wet clothes gel and set friendships and teamwork achieved are many.
shadows of the Kukri Hills. Midnight on objectives - solar heated lakes, their solid. Hours later on our way back to camp the The underlying trust and companionship
Nussbaum Reigel. Brilliantly sunlit mountains chemistry, physics and biology; ground wet set of gear had dried out by ablation. experienced are precious. Lastly there are the
and icefalls on the other side of the valley, hugging glaciers, Antarctic surficial geology, memories of those whose vision, enthusiasm,
Lake Bonney to the west and McMurdo sound Polar Plateau snow balance and I remember the ease with which we moved hard work and skills made it all possible in the
and Erebus to the East. Ice covered lakes and carbonaceous chondrites, implications for the around the Dry Valleys, the stunning landscape first place. The person who immediately comes
ponds in the floor of the valley, wadis, dunes history of the ice cap and glacial movements of beautifully sculptured rock outcrops, the to mind every time is Bob Clark, to whom I and
and lag pavements. Total silence and stillness and more…. sand dunes and ventifact fields, the saline others owe a lot.
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 27VUWAE 11 (1969-70) Vince Neall into marine zoology. With the aid of an when Adam Wooller said, “I think I'll ring VUWAE 13 led by Peter Webb and Barrie
obliging Weddel seal, we caught a 50+kg fish, Mum.” So he whipped out the hand held radio, McKelvey, with myself (team medic) and fellow
One lasting memory I have was when Colin
which we identified from a 200mm long type called Scott Base via a repeater in the Dry student Mike Gorton (mechanic) completing
Vucetich and I spent Christmas 1969 in the
specimen as a Dissostichus mawsonii or now Valleys and got patched through the satellite the team, aimed to explore the Boomerang-
Lower Taylor Valley. On our meanderings
called a tooth fish, the first time found in link to Mum's phone. A very sleepy voice Warren Range-Lashly Mountains area. We
around the landscape we crossed a low
recent times in the Ross Sea. We gave it to the answered. Mum was in Devon. were accompanied by two famous Italian
saddle, only to find in the pristine Antarctic
Natural History Museum, so I must check if mountaineers/journalists who guided us
atmosphere a pungent rotten odour attacking I've enjoyed my 38 years span in Antarctica -
it's still there. through dangerous areas - they were the
our nostrils. Further investigation revealed it the camaraderie - the blizzards - the brilliant precursors to Italy setting up an Antarctic base
to be areas of very shallow water in which The next VUWAE trip in 1975 saw us with days and the times you can see forever - not to in later years. With little English between
algae had been growing, but now as the Doug Northey, Eric Broughton, Colin Brown & mention the scientific rewards. them, we soon found we could 'converse' fairly
season progressed, the waters were drying up How Kin Wong from the University of well without hands, especially when it came to
and the algae rotting. I suggested we called it Michigan, carrying out a magnetic and seismic rationing fresh meat or alcohol we had taken
Lake Puhipuhi, when Colin turned to me and survey of McMurdo Sound and Terra Nova
VUWAE 13 (1968-69) Barry Kohn to break the monotony of freeze-dry rations.
nonchalantly said, “I think Hannibal came Bay. At times our magnetometer was being We covered about 500 kilometres with our
through here with his elephants”. It was just towed over the ice, but, unbelievably, still I first landed in Antarctica in 1968 after a 14 Polaris toboggans and Nansen sledges that
one of those occasions when I well remember gave reliable readings. Our measurements hour flight in the US Navy Super Constellation - season. Scientific highlights were many, but
cracking up with Colin's unexpected humour helped determine optimum locations for the Pegasus. After about 7 hours into our flight the undoubtedly topped by the discovery of
of the moment. MSSTS drill holes. pilot announced that he had both 'good news Permo-Carboniferous tillites and rich deposits
and bad news' - we had now passed the half of beautifully preserved Devonian fossil fish.
The first venture on to terra firma was with way mark, but had also reached the point of
Peter Garden on Mt Bastion collecting no-return, so we would be landing at Williams One of the main plans of VUWAE-15, under the
VUWAE 11 (1966-67) Chris Christoffel
samples for palaeomagnetic measurements, Field no matter what the conditions. I was leadership of Peter Barrett and myself as
My first visit to Antarctica was in 1958 when I where we teamed up with Peter Barrett and reminded rather vividly of how quickly deputy leader was to take a large party,
was in the Navy and towed my magnetometer Alex Pyne. Cloud conditions at McMurdo and conditions could change on the ice during the including Australian vertebrate
from the wooden ship HMNZS Endeavour Bastion were out of phase so that supplies 1970-71 season (VUWAE 15).
between New Zealand and Antarctica and were running low by the time we were While at Scott Base, a few days
carried out an extensive survey in the Ross Barry Kohn and Rodney Grapes relaxing during VUWAE15.
collected. Peter and I continued to Beacon before setting out for our field
Sea, in conjunction with a biological survey Heights, one of the most scenic locations in season some of the staff
carried out by members of the Institute of Antarctica. This was equalled in 1981, when invited us out on a 'looting'
Oceanography. On the return trip we carried we camped on the cirque near Mt Kempe and expedition to check out what
VUWAE members including Colin Bull, Peter could see 250 miles out over the Ross Sea could be retrieved from
Webb & Barrie McKelvey. I didn't have much beyond Mt Melbourne and Franklin Island. Mt Pegasus before it was shoved
time to talk to them as I was too busy in the Erebus seemed to be in touching distance. off the ice into the sea. Pegasus
hold tending my magnetometer. had slid off the 'runway' while
Communications with the outside world landing in a whiteout resulting
That first trip got me hooked, and I changed drastically over the years. In the in considerable damage (luckily
subsequently had another 15 to Antarctica, 60's, one had to book a time with the PO no-one was seriously injured).
some in conjunction with VUWAE. The first of operator weeks ahead and then for a half That marked the end of the
these, with Ian Calhaem, in 1966, measuring hour on the phone you'd be lucky to get five Super Constellation era and on
heat flow through the bottom of McMurdo minutes of intelligible conversation. But in to the C-130 Hercules and
Sound by sending our probe through a US 1994, we were on the summit of Mt Feather at C-141 Starlifters.
fishing hut hole was notable for our launching 10,000ft on the edge of the Polar Plateau
Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expeditions: The First 50 Years 29You can also read
