The New Face of Fashion and Beauty
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
DAILY EDITION APRIL 2, 2021
Fashion. Beauty. Business.
DIVERSITY:
The New Face of Fashion and Beauty
After the reality check on the fashion and beauty world’s exclusionary nature brought diversity firmly to the fore of the conversation last year,
it’s time to lay out a new road map. The need for inclusion won’t wane and conscious consumers won’t wait around until brands back their
words with real action. From examining the current level of the industry diversity, to making the conversation more inclusive, and exploring
best practices to ensure an enduring future, Fairchild Media Group’s Diversity Forum dug into the issues to shed some light on the next steps
forward on diversity, the new face of fashion and beauty. For coverage from the forum, see pages 10 to 21.
WE D RI V E
FASH I ON
FO RWARD –
FO R G OOD.
Creating an environment where every
individual is valued and every voice is heard.
PVH.com
APRIL 2, 2021 11
FAIRCHILD MEDIA GROUP DIVERSITY FORUM
Meghan Markle’s Story Could Teach Fashion
A Thing About Diversity and Inclusion
While issues around diversity can be difficult for some to grasp or relate to, PVH’s Lance LaVergne drew on a
current example many can connect with: Meghan Markle. BY LISA LOCKWOOD
With all the conversation about diversity People, herself included, are going at
and inclusion within fashion companies it their own way because of a lack of
this past year, questions such as whether resources and open doors. “I’ve been
efforts will stick, how companies assess bootstrapping, but it has been really hard
progress and where the industry go from and still continues to be hard as we even
here have been top of mind. grow and scale our business.”
Taking a stock check of where things When it comes to what the CFDA is
stand today, CaSandra Diggs, president doing to address diversity within its own
of the Council of Fashion Designers of organization, Diggs said the diversity of
America, said, “I think where we are is not CFDA’s membership is reflective of the
where we want to be, of course....I think industry as a whole, though it’s taking
that for a host of reasons, companies don’t steps toward advancement both internally
always track that information.” and as far as expanding representation
Adding to that, while noting the across annual award recipients and
general public can find out more about designer spotlights.
management diversity on most companies’ The CFDA started working with luxury
websites, Lance LaVergne, chief diversity brand consultant and advocate Bethann
officer and senior vice president for global Hardison in 2018 when they cofounded
talent acquisition and associate experience the Designer’s Hub, an incubator program
at PVH Corp., said, “It tends to be very for designers of color. CFDA has also
homogeneous groupings of people.” supported Harlem’s Fashion Row through
For someone who is looking to enter its Icon 360 program, and worked
the fashion industry and wants to see with the Fashion for All Foundation.
opportunities, it can be very disheartening They’re offering grant programs and
and discouraging, he said, adding that it’s giving designers access to Runway360,
incumbent upon companies to figure out where they can present fashion shows
how to move the pipeline of talent and and designs, and they’re also offering
develop the more junior-level executives mentorship to connect them to other
into managerial and leadership ranks. designers and professionals in the industry.
It’s also important to think more broadly At PVH, there’s work to be done on
about talent because there are fungible internal diversity, too. CaSandra Diggs
skill sets in more diverse sectors where the In its 2019 corporate responsibility
fashion industry can bring people in and report, PVH published the representation focus on diversity and trying to improve The organization collaborated with PVH
change the complexion of an organization. numbers for the organization. According representation. The CFDA started trying two on the study highlighting the need for
To accelerate efforts around diversity, to LaVergne, roughly two-thirds of the years ago to open the doors to designers, awareness around the state of things to
Diggs said companies should create company’s staff are women. “As you go she said, and after George Floyd’s killing, adequately articulate a path forward. From
sponsorship systems within the business up the ladder at PVH, that number holds she thinks companies really moved quickly. that report, CFDA launched its Impact
so key leaders can start mentoring and fairly steady until you get to the most senior “It can’t be a slow and steady process,” program to identify, connect, nurture
advocating for people who would make levels where you see a slight drop-off. she said because, at present, the industry and support talented people of color in
good executives. And she also believes On the race and ethnicity side, they’re doesn’t reflect the melting pot we all the industry and provide access to jobs.
fashion should tap other industries, like about 60 percent diverse across the entire live in. “But I do think that there are It is also trying to address the barriers to
finance and tech, to recruit talent. population. The decline in representation is institutions that are committed to really entry that prevent them from entering the
From a designer perspective, Fe a little greater as you move up the ladder.” making the change.” fashion industry. CFDA is building a talent
Noel, owner, designer and founder of For its part in making progress, PVH is In the PVH and CFDA report on the directory with the Creatively job platform,
her eponymous lifestyle brand, said the trying to ensure women occupy seats across state of diversity, equity and inclusion in and they’ll do mentorship and sponsorship
industry needs to market its available the board and are active in every aspect of fashion, 50 percent of respondents said programming. Progress will take time,
opportunities beyond the typical circles. the business. On the race and ethnicity side, they have taken action on racial diversity. Diggs said, but taking things step by step
“I think that we need somehow to LaVergne said it’s about understanding how Forty-one percent, however, haven’t taken will carry the industry forward as long as
be aware of the opportunities that are to advance and accelerate the diversity in any action at all. there are collaborative efforts.
out there. We don’t even know what the junior and retail side of the business Asked how the CFDA intends to hold the While issues around diversity can be
resources there are and how to get into into more senior managerial and leadership latter to account, Diggs said the CFDA and difficult for some to grasp or relate to,
these institutions because there’s no roles across the organization. other organizations have the responsibility LaVergne drew on a current example
pipeline or road map,” she said, noting Noel believes there has been a 180-degree to take action. For its part, CFDA is trying many can connect with: Meghan Markle.
the need for that to change immediately. turn in the industry when it comes to a to be more collaborative in its efforts. During the much talked about Oprah
Winfrey interview with Prince Harry and
Lance LaVergne Fe Noel Markle, the Duchess of Cambridge spoke
about how she was originally welcomed
into the royal family with great fanfare, but
that didn’t last.
“If you listen to her experience, they
never did include her and she never felt
like she belonged,” LaVergne said, noting
that it’s important to make sure people of
color know they belong and are valued for
their contribution, that they are part of the
fabric of the organization just as anyone
else would be. That, he pointed out, was
missing for Markle.
To navigate this effectively, companies
need to make sure they integrate
people into the organization as well as
create opportunities for those who are
underrepresented to build community
within the broader organization, which
can take the form of employee or business
resource groups.
“If you’re not of the majority it can
be a challenging experience if you don’t
find the places for you to connect,”
LaVergne said. When you can share your
experiences, it better connects you to that
organization, he said.P O W E R E D B Y :
Driving Diversity
it this far without them.”
On a global scale, the company remains
just as committed to I&D – but adjusts its
approach to speak to different audiences.
Forward
Sabine Kromowidjojo, Senior Director,
Inclusion & Diversity, PVH Europe,
told WWD, “As a global company, PVH
has empowered all of its regions to exe-
cute the commitment to I&D regionally,
driven by a global I&D strategic frame-
In its inclusion and diversity work, PVH is taking a 360-degree work. We need to understand very well
the regional and cultural challenges, and
approach across its global brands and associates “on the ground.” from there create a strategy that supports
these regional needs,” she explained.
This included the relaunch of its inter-
D
nal “Let’s Talk” series, which began with
imensions of diver- a session on racial injustice, specifically
sity are expanding on European colonial history and the
and reinforcing impact it has on European society today,
across the fashion Kromowidjojo said, noting that, “under-
and retail industries standing this regional context is crucial
– and PVH Corp. is because it acknowledges the differences.”
positioning itself as PVH leverages its partnerships and
an industry leader collaborations to reach I&D objectives
with an approach to I&D that embraces and help them speak their consumers’ lan-
accountability through the work and guage. “We have set some really ambitious
voices of its associates on the ground. I&D goals, and we know that in order to
For PVH, that approach embodies a achieve them on this journey, we need to
sharp focus on aspects of diversity that tap into partnerships and collaborations.
are crucial to the company. PVH’s Global Bringing our I&D commitments to life
Inclusion & Diversity Council this year through partners and collaborations allows
developed nine global commitments that us to work alongside expert partners and
encompass and solidify its I&D pillars – gives us an opportunity to reach consum-
Workplace, Marketplace and Community ers in an authentic, meaningful way.”
– to deliver the “greatest impact” for its This included PVH’s
associates, consumers, and communities. A look from TommyXLewisXHER Spring ‘20 collab-
Its nine company-wide I&D commit- Tommy oration, which was one of the first times
ments are centered on: inclusive represen- Adaptive. the brand offered gender-neutral styles,
tation across its leadership and SVP-level and in Europe, Tommy Hilfiger’s recent
positions to achieve gender parity and “Through the Tommy Hilfiger partnership with Zeekit to pilot a “Model
increase total Black, Indigenous, and People’s Place Program, we will amplify Switch” on Tommy.com, offering consum-
People of Color (BIPOC) representation our mission to create more opportu- ers an opportunity to see clothing on dif-
at the same tiers, both by 2026; a diverse nities and to dedicate resources for ferent-sized models, Kromowidjojo said.
candidate slate; retention and develop- underrepresented communities who are Our goal is Naturally, initiatives that drive I&D
ment, focused on mentoring, resources
and tools for women and underrepre-
so important to the fashion landscape
– giving them a true platform for their to create forward for specific brands look a little
different. For example, Calvin Klein’s
sented groups; a culture of inclusivity;
and accountability.
talent to shine. When we started the
People’s Place Program last year, we met programs inclusion efforts began in the mid-1990s
with the introduction of its gender neu-
Its commitments also include estab-
lishing a Marketing and Advertising
with dynamic organizations and thought
leaders who were already doing great
that can be a tral CK One fragrance, which was the
first unisex fragrance to gain popularity
review board to ensure diverse repre-
sentation in its brand marketing and
work to build equity and representation
for minority communities in fashion.”
blueprint for and cultural significance in the U.S.
Danielle Lafleur, EVP Head Merchant,
advertising materials; the launch of a
Supplier Diversity program by 2022; and
“With our upcoming partnerships,
we will create fantastic bespoke pro-
other brands Calvin Klein, and co-Executive Sponsor
of the Retail I&D council, told WWD
awareness and access for communities by
investing $10 million globally over the
gramming that will put us on the path of
change we want to see in the industry.”
to follow.” that its associates-first approach builds
I&D into the fabric of the company,
next four years, to “amplify awareness Cousin added that PVH also hopes to Randy Cousin, which “in turn creates a culture that
and access to opportunities in the fashion “re-articulate the narrative” of collabo- SVP of Product Concepts builds a more inclusive product.”
industry,” all according to PVH. rations outside of the product space, too. and the People’s Place “Ultimately, and importantly, this res-
“Our goal is to create programs that can onates with our consumer, as an all-inclu-
Program, Tommy Hilfiger
Taking a Tailored Approach be a blueprint for other brands to follow. sive approach is far more authentic than
PVH is working hard to drive I&D forward There is so much work to be done in taking a public stance on diversity via
on a granular level and keeps the entire building equity for underserved minority marketing alone – although we certainly
industry’s progress top of mind. Randy communities, so we will share our jour- Merchandising, Tommy Adaptive, told support diversity through our market-
Cousin, SVP of Product Concepts and the ney not only with our consumers but WWD that its adaptive clothing is meet- ing as our latest Calvin Klein campaign
People’s Place Program, Tommy Hilfiger, with the entire fashion industry, as well.” ing the needs of its diverse consumer ‘Blank Canvas’ beautifully reminds us.”
told WWD, “We are in a world now that is Dottie Cannon, Senior Director, landscape through accessible style. Lafleur said that its Retail I&D
fast and instantaneous. We must listen and Talent Development, Calvin Klein, “Tommy Hilfiger launched the Tommy Council, which launched about a year
learn from each other. It is the best way to told WWD that BRAAVE (Building Adaptive line in 2017 with the mission ago and is focused solely on its store-
move forward as an industry.” Resources for African American Voices of making our classic, American styling based associates, began by pausing to
“PVH’s commitment to Listen, Learn, and Empowerment), one of PVH’s accessible to all consumers. Since its commemorate George Floyd with 8 min-
and Act is a fundamental commitment to Business Resource Groups (BRG), helps inception, we’ve partnered closely with utes and 46 seconds of silence across its
dismantling the fashion industry’s sys- hold PVH accountable for I&D. our consumer to understand the specific PVH corporate offices and retail stores.
temic challenges. Topics of race don’t “BRAAVE has given me a commu- dressing challenges that people with dis- Later, the council went on to spon-
have to be difficult unless we make them nity and support system through which abilities face and have created our prod- sor Latin Heritage, Black History, and
difficult. The work towards equity, inclu- I’ve been able to find my voice. Having a uct with their direct input and feedback.” International Women’s rights initiatives.
sion, and diversity has to be continuous group of people with shared experiences Moon said that one in five people in the And in time, the council identified gaps
and consistent – it’s crucial and will bring has given me the courage to confront U.S. has a disability, making it the largest in its employees’ training and develop-
us one step closer to the change we all difficult conversations and given me the minority group – but one that is oft-over- ment practices, namely the challenges
want to see,” Cousins said. support to speak about those experiences looked. “We take pride in offering easy for associates that speak English as a
The company leverages various part- to the larger organization. Being part of magnetic and Velcro closures, magnetic second language, and the identified need
nerships and collaborations to reach BRAAVE has helped me feel acknowl- zippers, and thoughtfully designed silhou- for translation of in-store signage.
I&D objectives for the brands under its edged and validated.” ettes that allow for greater ease of dressing, And today, Lafleur said she is happy
umbrella – and that means taking a unique all while keeping style at the forefront.” to report that its council is expanding.
approach that’s tailored to each brand. Accessible Style “We’ve also considered the end-to- “[The council is] turning into a full
For Tommy Hilfiger, part of its mission is Accessibility is another fundamental end consumer journey, ensuring our site Business Resource Group, which will
focused on the creation of opportunities facet of diversity for PVH – and its com- is ADA compliant and our packaging is allow for broader participation and even
and support for underrepresented com- mitment to adaptive apparel makes the easy-open, again all with input from our more company support – I feel honored
munities in the fashion industry. case for it. Joy Moon, Director Brand consumer. We really couldn’t have made and proud to be a part of the progress.”You can also read
