THE OTHER RIVIERA The hinterland between Varazze and Finale Ligure - Proloco Bergeggi
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THE OTHER RIVIERA The hinterland between Varazze and Finale Ligure
THE OTHER
RIVIERA
The hinterland between
Varazze and Finale Ligure
The stretch of the Riviera delle Palme between Varazze and
Finale Ligure is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful on
the whole Ligurian Riviera, but its hinterland is even more
evocative. This is the Other Riviera, unique and unexpected.
It combines all the best of the region’s natural and historical
heritage for the joy of visitors.
Behind Varazze, Beigua Park protects an area of magnifi-
cent woods, brooks with really pure water, farmsteads and
views that goes as far as the eye can see, with so particular
geologic characteristics that the Park has received the mark
Unesco European Geopark.
Just a few bends and a several kilometres along the road
behind Finale and Noli will take you to the Manie Plateau.
This wild land was created by the geological whims of the
earth and has been preserved intact by the wisdom of those
who have lived here: the prehistoric Ligurians who inhabi-
ted its caves; the Romans who crossed it with their roads
and stone bridges; and finally the generations of peasants
who have obtained excellent olive oil and fine wine – and
all with the deep blue sea right below. Further inland, down
towards the Po Valley, are the Bormida Valleys, with their
huge, protected forests, feudal castles, mushrooms and
truffles, colourful villages, and more besides…
1
BLOWING ART
2 3
CHESTNUT
CULTURE
4 5
LIGHTNESS
OF BEING
6 7
BEIGUA PARK North Italy below
you
around) became one of
the Unesco European
whole track leading from
Ventimiglia to Bocca
It is easy to understand Global Geoparks. di Magra along the
The sacred mount protected why Beigua was a sacred watershed ridge. As it is
near the sea it’s wonderful
mount. The reason is that
by Unesco mountains so near to the Comparison to walk among beech
sky are the favourite seat between woods, meadows and
of gods who can observe two natural rocks along the ridge in
It does not reach the height of 1.300 meters, but it is
the world till the last environments the park; here it is easy
magnificient and imposing. Its woods are bright green horizon without obstacles. A mountain, two natural to understand that in
in summer and snow-white in winter; its ridges, open to Here view sweeps landscapes: beech, Liguria mountains are as
all winds, overlook Genoa and the whole Liguria. Mount southwards above the durmast and chestnut important as the sea.
Beigua is at the centre of a wild natural environment re- whole coast of Liguria till woods, damp areas and
Corsica and northwards meadows at high altitude
ally near to the sea and protected by an important Re-
above the centre western cover the northern
gional Natural Park. Beigua was sacred for the prehistoric Alps with even the mountainside whence
Ligurians and millenium after millenium shepherds have perceiving of Monviso waters move towards
engraved figures, crosses and symbols on its rocks. and Mount Rosa. Po river; maquis and
holm-oaks cover the steep
southern mountainside
Beigua Geopark sloping down towards
Beigua massif is a the sea.
mountainous complex
rich in geodiversity
and biodiversity; here Walking over the
there are geological, sea, near to the
archaeological, naturalistic sky
and historical sites of The wonderful Alta Via
great value. For these dei Monti Liguri goes
reasons in 2005 Beigua through the Beigua massif
Natural Regional Park with some of the most
(and a wide area all charming stages of the
8 9
BEHIND VARAZZE On the hills
of Varazze
it is surrounded by an
interesting nature trail.
told at the Archaeological
Museum housed in the
AND CELLE LIGURE Casanova, between
the green countryside
and the blue sea
Pero: among holm
oaks and chestnut
centre of the village, and
a “prehistoric” nature trail
leads to the spots where
In Casanova the smell trees they lived and to the
Thick forests and cool mountain streams of the sea mixes with The landscape becomes “megalithic road”.
the aroma of maquis wild and rugged as the
Inside the Beigua Natural Regional Park there is a wide herbs and flowers. The road climbs towards Wolves and sheeps
panoramic little church of Mount Beigua. The olive Among the villages of
forest rich in waters and mushrooms that from the rocky
Madonna della Guardia trees give way to holm Varazze, Cantalupo (the
coast of Piani di Invrea and from Varazze goes up to the stands on a hilltop high oaks and then chestnut wolf sings) is the nearest
mount Beigua; it is dotted with some rural villages and above Varazze, not far trees. Along the road to the centre and the sea;
houses and scattered farmsteads. It is the true face of the from the Chapel of that cuts through the its houses are surrounded
other Riviera: greenery and panoramic views, with your the Blessed Jacopo da flowers and olive groves by olive trees. Faie is in
Varagine. He is Varazze’s in Campomarzio, a a panoramic position
head in the clouds and your feet in the warm Mediter-
most famous historical sign displays geodetic open towards Genoa and
ranean. figure, Bishop of Genoa data (e.g. latitude, Portofino promontory;
and writer of “Legenda longitude…) of the place; perhaps the name of the
Aurea”. in this way we learn that village derives from the
New Zealand’s Chatham dialectal word “fèe” that
A desert in a forest Islands lie 12,000 km means sheep.
Varazze’s Eremo below our feet, in the
Carmelitano del Deserto Antipodes. Castagnabuona
(Carmelite Monastery of The old village of
the Desert) is a famous Prehistoric Alpicella Castagnabuona is located
isolated seventeenth- The woods of Alpicella near the centre of Varazze,
century friary. It is set in were once inhabited by on a westward-facing hill.
a thick wood, where the Neolithic peoples, who A stone tower (perhaps
only sounds are the singing have left their traces in built by the Saracens),
of birds and the murmur caves, gorges and rock stands amongst the olive
of streams and wind, and shelters. Their story is groves.
10 11
In the hills of TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP Museo Archeologico The hamlets of
Celle Ligure (Archaeological Museum) Celle Ligure
Sanda The hamlets of Varazze Alpicella, Ph. 019 9399408 Agriturismo Çele
The hamlet of Sanda, Affittacamere Pizzeria www.comune.varazze.sv.it via Sanda 30, Ph. 019 991936
one of the area’s earliest Braceria Baccere Baciccia Osho Arihant Varazze agriturismocele@libero.it
settlements, lies on the (rooms) piazza IV Novembre 17 (Information Center & Agriturismo B&B La Natta
main road from Celle Alpicella, Ph. 019 918005 Creativity House) di Monte Tabor
Ligure to Stella. www.baccerebaciccia.it via Alpicella 28, Alpicella via Postetta 37
Agriturismo Cascina Ph. 019 918766 Ph. 019 991580
Càssisi Vittoria www.oshovarazze.com www.nattadimontetabor.it
A long farming tradition is via Al Deserto 18 Pasticceria Artigiana Azienda Agricola
still alive in Càssisi, a rural Ph. 338 3884088 Punto Dolce Calcagno Palo
hamlet among the olive Agriturismo Castello (pastries) via Pero 22, Pero (farm, basil)
groves with nice views of d’Alpicella (boxer breeding) Ph. 019 9189021 via Postetta 45
the sea and the hills. Here via Ceresa 17, Alpicella Rifugio Pratorotondo Ph. 019 993961
is a house-fortress of the Ph. 019 918424 (Alpine chalet) www.calcagnopaolobasilico.it
14th century. www.castelloalpicella.it loc. Pratorotondo, Cogoleto B&B Il Castellaro
Apicoltura Montali Ph. 010 9133578 via SS. Giacomo e Filippo 57
Pecorile and the (honey) www.rifugiopratorotondo.it Ph. 019 992995
Sistine Chapels via Campomarzio 5, Pero Ristorante Agriturismo www.ilcastellaro.it
Further to the east Ph. 019 918066 Fonda B&B Masseria Ganci
is Pecorile, home to B&B Bricco Santo via al Deserto 13 via Ganci 20
the rural house where via Tessarole 34 loc. Deserto, Ph. 019 918201 Ph. 019 991836
Francesco Della Rovere Castagnabuona agriturismo.fonda@libero.it B&B Il Sentiero dell’Arte
was born in 1414. He Ph. 389 1259835 Ristorante Agriturismo via Fighetto 62B
ruled as Pope Sixtus IV B&B Da o Bensin La Tana degli Orsi Ph. 320 4225970
from 1471 to 1484 and via Frandea 11, Alpicella via Pratorotondo 3, Faie www.sentierodellartebb.
commissioned the Sistine Ph. 019 97683, 348 1208884 Ph. 349 1046583 blogspot.com
Chapel in the Vatican and B&B La Rocca www.agriturismolatanadegliorsi.it B&B Villa Ali
the less famous Sistine via Campomarzio 23 Ristorante Da Carlin
loc. Camprevi 10, Sanda
Chapel in Savona. Pero, Ph. 019 918429 via Campomarzio 71
Ph. 019 992560
328 3843107 Pero, Ph. 019 918557
334 5283698
B&B Liguria Ristorante Pizzeria
Centro Bonsai Caviglia
via Pero 66 Il Piccolo Ranch
(bonsai centre) via Natta 27
Ph. 019 918473, 348 0721051 via Monte Beigua 7
Ph. 019 991602
bbliguriavarazze@yahoo.it Alpicella Ph. 019 918706
www.centrobonsai.it
Casa per ferie Foresteria Sapori dell’Eremo
Centro Ippico Celle
della Croce (holidays home) (typical products of
(horse centre)
loc. N. Signora della Croce Carmelites) via Al Deserto 19
via Bolano 14, Sanda
Castagnabuona Ph. 019 918050
Oleificio Cooperativo
Ph. 019 95500 Trattoria Ai Cacciatori
Cellese
Casa per ferie Parrocchia piazza IV Novembre 14
(oil mill) via Sanda
S. Antonio Abate Alpicella Ph. 019 918368
Ph. 019 991062
(holidays home) Trattoria Da Adolfo
Ristorante Gemma
piazza IV Novembre 3 via Pero 47, Pero
loc. Natta 2
Alpicella Ph. 019 918269
Ph. 339 7997938
Ph. 019 918117, 019 918107 Trattoria Fossello
Trattoria dau Giancu
Centro Ippico via Quinno 11, Casanova
via Cassisi 179, Cassisi
Free Horses Ranch Ph. 019 95945
Ph. 019 991681
(horse centre) Trattoria La Vecchia
www.daugiancu.it
via Ceresa, Alpicella Fattoria
Trattoria Terrenin
Ph. 340 8836813 via Sciandra 10, Casanova
via Sanda 102
Hotel Ristorante Pizzeria Ph. 019 918223
Ph. 019 990976
Monte Beigua Trattoria U Baracun
via Monte Beigua 19 via Alpicella 1, Alpicella
Monte Beigua, Ph. 019 931304 Ph. 019 918486
www.beigua.it www.ubaracun.it
12 13
A bit of sport TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP Camping Gameragna
The many hills via Parissolo 8, Gameragna
surrounding Stella offer Stella Ph. 019 706366
endless fun for ramblers; Town Hall Ph. 019 703409 www.campinggameragna.com
they will find interesting www.comune.stella.sv.it Casa Museo Pertini
tours on foot, by bike (Pertini Home Museum, on
or on horseback. Fans Agriturismo Cà de Pin booking)
of unusual sports can via Corona 95, San Bernardo via Muzio 42, San Giovanni
try the archery range Ph. 019 7040013 Ph. 019 706194
in Reverdita, between Agriturismo La Vallata www.assopertini.it
the Madonna del Salto via Costa 13, loc. Gancia Compagnia Arcieri
Church and San Martino. Ph. 019 703584, 339 3998115 5 Stelle (archery)
www.agriturismolavallata.com loc. Reverdita, San Giovanni
Agriturismo Rio Lunei Ph. 019 804220
A President with loc. Beghina 10, San Giovanni 339 7935958
a pipe Ph. 019 706566 www.arcieri5stelle.it
The house where Sandro www.riolunei.it Drosera Società
Pertini (Italy’s President Azienda Agricola Cooperativa (walking,
between 1978 and 1985) Agrituristica Il Mulino biking and tours with
was born in 1896 is now (“formaggetta savonese” snowshoes)
a museum situated in the cheese) loc. Corona 28/1
centre of the old village of fraz. San Martino 167 San Bernardo
San Giovanni. The family Ph. 019 706303 Ph. 019 703991
tomb is housed in the 333 3838894 347 4607057
nearby cemetery. www.paradisodistella.it www.drosera.it
Stella
Azienda Agricola Ristorante Antica Greppia
Pasquale Usai loc. Vetriera 4, Gameragna
Typical cheese (farm, Sardinian cheese) Ph. 019 703311
The “formaggetta” of the loc. Corona 177 Ristorante Pancho Villa
via Teglia 85, San Martino
Five hilltop hamlets area is one of the most
characteristic Ligurian
San Bernardo
Ph. 019 703137 Ph. 019 706367
cheeses: a delicious, Bar Tavola Calda Da Dele Ristorante Pizzeria
Stella, overlooking the sea and infused with the perfu- light cheese using 100% (snack bar) via Dorino La Capannina
med air of the Mount Beigua Natural Park, is made up organic goat’s milk in Boristene 32 loc. Rovieto Superiore 128
of five hamlets that remember the shape of a star with exactly the same way as San Bernardo San Giovanni
mountain people did in Ph. 019 706464 Ph. 019 703055
their reciprocal position. Inhabited by approximately th-
times gone by. Grazing B&B Gabriella Ristorante La Gattabuia
ree thousand people, it is set among the Mediterranean loc. Contrada 75 piazza Poggi 27
sheep and Sardinian
maquis and beech and chestnut woods. Gameragna has shepherds are a common San Bernardo San Giovanni
a honeycomb-like layout and is close to the coast; San sight on the Ligurian hills Ph. 019 703424 Ph. 019 703211
Giovanni is the “capital”; San Martino overlooks the Teiro for decades. immopegaso@libero.it Ristorante
B&B Gli Oleandri Pizzeria Ligustico
Valley that reaches down to Varazze; San Bernardo is set
loc. Gameragna 97 loc. Gameragna 2
against the thickly-wooded slopes of Montenotte; and Ph. 348 8342568 Ph. 019 706384
Santa Giustina is situated at the foot of Giovo Pass. B&B La Luna dei Prati Ristorante Trattoria
via Donatelli 8, San Bernardo La Girotta
Ph. 019 7040059 via Pippo 14, Santa Giustina
www.lalunadeiprati.com Ph. 019 706100
Camping e Ristorante Trattoria
Dolce Vita Pizzeria Colomba
via Rio Basco 62 via P. Rocca 13
San Giovanni, Ph. 019 703269 San Martino
www.campingdolcevita.it Ph. 019 706285
14 15
TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP
The hamlets of Albisola
Superiore
Apicoltura Gaino (honey)
via R. Poggi 32, Carpineto
Ph. 019 488141
info@mielegaino.com
B&B La Collina dei Castagni
loc. Campanile 3, Ellera
Ph. 019 4009326
347 4181948
lacollinadeicastagni@gmail.com
B&B e Ristorante La Locanda
VILLAGES
di Nonna Teresa
Nine holes among December and January
piazza Bandiera 7/1, Ellera
olive trees (and during other periods
of the year on request). Ph. 019 49009
Among olive trees, near
OF ALBISOLA the centre of Albisola
Superiore, Filanda Golf
Éllera
www.lalocandadinonnateresa.it
Casa per Vacanze Feré du Muin
(Holidays home)
SUPERIORE
Club offers its first nine
Éllera, with its tiny squares via Natale Rosselli 12, Ellera
holes to people who
and narrow old streets, Ph. 019 49043, 340 7704763
appreciate this healthy
is a welcoming hamlet cavferedumuin.albisolasuperiore@
and smart sport. Mild
that nestles between live.com
climate makes playing all
The country behind ceramics the year round pleasant. Sansobbia stream and the Centro Ippico Albisolese
hillside. It is an excellent (horse centre)
The ceramics, produced by centuries in the Albisolas sto- place to stop for a good via Boraxe 102, Luceto
Ph. 019 992010, 340 3665129
ves hidden among the narrow lanes near the sea, have Luceto night’s rest and some
delicious food. Ramblers Enoturist ä Cantin-ä
really bright colours. These hues can be found again on Albisola Superiore is the
can follow the path from (Ligurian wines)
gateway to a lush green
the façades of the houses and the shades of vegetation Éllera to San Bernardo via R. Poggi 19, Casino
valley nestling between
of Albisolas first hinterland, but with more rustic tones. the steep inland hills. It in the Letimbro Valley, Ph. 019 49262
behind Savona. Golf Club La Filanda
seems impossible that
loc. Carpineto
the sea is so close. The
Ph. 019 489679, 347 2905867
Sansobbia Valley acts
www.filandaresort.com
as Albisola’s reservoir of
Presepe meccanico
cool air and is dotted
(mechanical crib) at San Matteo
with villages with
church, Luceto
coloured stone houses,
Ph. 019 487857
humpback bridges and
Ristorante Da Marietta
old watermills. One of
via Schiappapietra 17, Ellera
the most interesting
Ph. 019 49059, 347 8711486
mechanical nativity scenes
www.trattoriadamarietta.
in Liguria can be visited
beepworld.it
in the crypt of Luceto’s
Ristorante Del Molino
modern church between
piazza Cairoli 2, Ellera
Ph. 019 49043
16 17Sassello spots of Savona’s inland canoeists and kayakers.
Italy’s first Orange area. Palazzo Perrando It is possible to spend a
Flag houses a library, a cultural nice day walking along
Although it has a centre and the museum the lake above San Pietro
population of less than of archaeology and local d’Olba and making a
two thousand, the history founded by the pause at the picnic area.
municipal territory of last descendant of the
Sassello covers an area Perrando family. The “Urbe” like Rome?
of over 100 square museum also boasts Rock drawings and
kilometers. Its extensive paintings by Piola and Roman coins reveal that
woods are inhabited Cambiaso, a seventeenth these magnificent forests
by roe deer, hawks and century carved wooden have been inhabited
foxes, all of which can be nativity scene and a uninterruptedly since
spotted when walking, collection of ceramics. prehistoric times.
cycling or driving through However the name
the beech and pine Who said that “Urbe” has nothing to do
groves. Sassello is the gluttony is a deadly with Urbe caput mundi.
first Italian village that sin? Generations of peasants
has received the Touring Sassello is home to and craftsmen, who
Club of Italy’s Orange gourmet delights: its soft worked the iron imported
Flag, a quality mark amaretti (macaroons) from Elba, have lived
for tourist facilities and are legendary, as the amidst the red roofs of
environmental standards amaretto, a sweet dessert the houses, the simple
of inland areas. liqueur, and the bitters Baroque-style church and
version to be sipped the wooden beams of the
A noble feudal village after meals. But it is also farmhouses.
SASSELLO AND The centre of Sassello
dates back to the
famous for its honey,
ham, cooked and raw
salami and bacon pâté
ORBA VALLEYS
seventeenth century and
boasts frescoed palaces flavoured with herbs and
and Baroque churches. spices. The extensive
The late-Renaissance woods provide porcini
Church of the Concezione mushrooms and the local
Landscapes and traditions and the old Church of San bakers make an oval flat
Giovanni house paintings bread with flour and
Just turning your back at the sea between Varazze and and sculptures by great potatoes, known as tirotti.
the Albisolas you can find yourself in a world of woods Genoese artists, including
and hills. Orba valley is northwards, towards Po river; Anton Maria Maragliano.
The Saracens’ Tower Urbe
it offers to the tourists a natural landscape almost pure The Riviera’s “Rocky
dominates Bastia Soprana,
with woods, waters and proofs of the ancient history of while the fifteenth- Mountains”
its people. century village of Bastia Urbe along the Orba:
Sottana preserves the this tongue twister is the
ruins of a castle and the name of a municipality
Church of Sant’Antonio. of five hamlets with 800
inhabitants, scattered
Flowers for the Lord over a wooded area with
In early summer the numerous mountain
streets of Sassello are streams that recalls the
decked with leafy Rocky Mountains. This is
branches and flower the ancient Orba Forest,
petals for the Corpus once the hunting ground
Christi celebrations. of the Lombard kings. The
clear waters of the River
Books, paintings and Orba and its tributaries
nativity scenes teem with fish, with silent
Sassello is one of the lakes and little rapids
most important cultural that are much loved by
18 19TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP B&B Della Ruscina Macelleria Salumeria Ristorante Trattoria
loc. Rossina 8/1, Piampaludo Giacobbe La Donda
Sassello Ph. 019 736947, 347 1864834 (meat, cold meats and salami) via Molana 27, Palo
Town Hall Ph. 019 724103 B&B Eleonora piazza G. Rolla 7 Ph. 019 727165
www.comunesassello.it via dei Perrando 19 Ph. 019 724118 Tavola calda Levej
Ph. 347 2549590 Museo Perrando (snack bar) piazza G. Rolla 2
Affittacamere www.casavacanze-sassello.com (Museum) via Perrando 33 Ph. 019 724057
Palazzo Garbarini B&B La Doria Ph. 019 724103 Trattoria Vittoria
(rooms) via Umberto I 21 loc. Doria 1, Ph. 335 5444138 www.comunesassello.it via G. Badano 7
Ph. 347 4764091 B&B Le Radici Pasticceria Garibaldi Ph. 019 724138
palazzo_garbarini@libero.it loc. Erro 17 (pastries) via Savona 2
Agriturismo Ant Ra Prina Ph. 019 2047102 Ph. 019 7234200
via Prina, Maddalena 328 6933398 Panificio Pasticceria Urbe
Ph. 349 5600926 www.bbleradici.com Roberto Dabove (bakery, Town Hall Ph. 019 726005
Agriturismo B&B Relais delle Sequoie pastries, “tirotti” flat bread) www.comune.urbe.sv.it
di Francesco Romano loc. Pianferioso 25 via Barberi 2
via Albergare 3 Ph. 346 7327907 Panificio Pasticceria Tre Affittacamere Trattoria
Ph. 019 724527 B&B Villa Bergami Torri Tonio
338 1156618, 333 3480033 Il Parco dei Cedri (“tirotti” flat bread, macaroons) (rooms) via Vassuria 42
agriturismo.romano@libero.it località Bergami 11 via Roma 8, Ph. 019 724892 Vara Superiore, Ph. 019 733009
Agriturismo La Sorba Ph. 019 4509179 Pasticceria Prime Rose B&B La Casa Inglese
loc. Assorba 1 320 7809492 (pastries, macaroons) in Liguria
Ph. 333 3259397 www.villabergami.eu via Roma 36, Ph. 019 7234273 via Ravugna 36, Vara Superiore,
cascinasorba@live.it Bar Franco Ristorante Pub La Cantina dei Frati Ph. 019 72265, 334 8530465
Agriturismo La Betulla via Chiesa, Palo (breakfast and rhythm night www.lacasainglesebb.it
loc. Veirera, Palo Ph. 019 727000 beer) piazza Concezione 10 B&B Ravera Giovanni
Ph. 340 2240876 Bar Ristorante Alimentari www.lacantinadeifrati.com via Acquabianca 1
Amaretti Giacobbe Saraceno Sergio Rifugio Ressia (Alpine chalet) Ph. 019 72500, 347 3683772
(macaroons) (grocer’s) loc. Prina 6 loc. Ressia 11, foresta Deiva Hotel Minetto
loc. Pianferioso 62 Maddalena, Ph. 019 724206 Ph. 010 8590300 via Roma 51, Ph. 019 726085
Ph. 019 724860 Biscottificio del 347 4607057 info@cemedile.it
www.amarettigiacobbe.it Sassello (Baratti & Milano) www.rifugioressia.it Hotel Ristorante Alla Scala
Amaretti Isaia (macaroons), Maddalena Rifugio Sciverna via Marasca 77, Ph. 019 726017
(macaroons) Ph. 019 724014 (Alpine chalet, horse stage) Hotel Ristorante All’Alpino
via G. Badano 46/r Campeggio Naturista fraz. Maddalena strada 334 via S. Ramorino 12
Ph. 019 724126 Costalunga per Acqui Terme San Pietro, Ph. 019 726067
Amaretti Virginia (naturistic camping) loc. Palo Ph. 019 705511, 349 7477437 Hotel Ristorante
(macaroons) Ph. 019 720004 www.planethorse.it La Nuvola sul Mare
loc. Prapiccinin 6 334 3234524, 347 5291320 Ristorante Agriturismo via Faiallo 25, Passo del Faiallo
Ph. 019 724119 www.costalunga.org Cà dei Brusco Ph. 019 733101, 348 8829978
www.amarettivirginia.com Hotel Ristorante (Ligurian and Piedmontese lanuvolasulmare@gmail.it
Amaretti Cidag Monte Cucco cooking) loc. Piano 1 Hotel Ristorante Ravera
(macaroons) loc. Alberola 26 Ph. 019 724311, 349 0964104 via Vara Superiore 29
via G. Badano 28 Ph. 019 727048, 019 727220 Ristorante Cantina Ph. 019 72227
Ph. 019 7214101 www.albergorifugiomontecucco.com Palazzo Salsole Hotel Ristorante Vara
Azienda Agricola Hotel Ristorante piazza Concezione 1 via Vara Inferiore 14
Apicultura La Bottinatrice Pian del Sole Ph. 019 724359 Ph. 019 733004
(farm, honey) loc. Bonuzzo 3, loc. Pianferioso 23 ww.palazzosalsole.it Locanda Ristorante
Ph. 019 724548 Ph. 019 724255 Ristorante Il Fungo Carolina
B&B A Spasso per i Boschi www.hotel-piandelsole.com loc. Manzin 28, Piampaludo via Savona 50
viale Rimembranza 11 L’Artigiana del Fungo Ph. 019 736952 Montà San Pietro
Ph. 019 724180 (mushrooms) Ristorante Piccolo Borgo Ph. 019 726414
335 7069394 via Rimembranza 12 via T. Zunini 2 Pizzeria La Tana della Volpe
stefi.pesce@tiscali.it Ph. 019 720245 Ph. 019 724580 via Ferriera 1, San Pietro
B&B Cascina Granbego La Sassellese (macaroons) Ristorante Pizzeria Ph. 019 726163
loc. Colla 3, Maddalena via G. Badano 44 Pizza & Fichi Ristorante Da Tonito
Ph. 019 724237, 347 7810778 Ph. 019 724140 piazza Rolla, Ph. 019 724201 via Roma 24, Martina Olba
www.granbego.com www.sassellese.it www.pizzaefichisassello.it Ph. 019 726153
20 21Pontinvrea Pontinvrea was the TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP
Fortresses, forests fiefdom of Genoa’s Invrea
and gold family, whose legacy is Pontinvrea
Town Hall Ph. 019 705001
The forests of the upper apparent not only in its
www.pontinvrea.com
Erro Valley have supplied name, but also in the
Azienda Agricola Maria
the wood for Savona’s reddish Marquis’ Palace Leoncini (farm, cheese, honey)
shipyards for centuries. and the Church of San via Acqui 14, Ph. 019 705122
Pontinvrea is one of the Lorenzo. There is also a B&B Alta Valle dell’Erro
gateways to the Beigua thirteenth-century castle, via Cassari 1
now in ruins. Gino Leoncini e Rosa
Natural Park and is also
Giovanna (honey)
known as the “Town of
loc. Pianbottello
Music” because of the Ph. 019 482885, 349 3576616
piano and singing contests Mioglia Go- kart Vittoria
and the music seminars. Far from the history at the crossroads for Mioglia,
Mushrooms, chestnuts, books, close to nature via Pian degli Agguati 1
game are produced Many centuries ago this Ph. 019 705465
locally; a special type of village, cradled between Hotel Ristorante
the open green wooded Aquila d’Oro
especially tasty sausage is
via Roma 6, Ph. 019 705267
at the centre of an annual hills and grey clay gorges
Hotel Ristorante Ligure
festival. The nearby Giovo reminiscent of the via Tagliata della Chiesa 43
Pass, with a nature reserve nearby Langhe region Giovo, Ph. 019 705007
where birdwatchers of Piedmont, was called www.ligurealbergoristorante.it
will spot many different Medulia. History books La Giumenta
species, is one of the make little mention of (horse shelter, sporting
Mioglia, which is situated association) via Prin 1
traditional passes between
ERRO VALLEY
Giovo Ligure, Ph. 347 7051527
Liguria and the Po Valley. far off the beaten track
Rifugio Planet Horse
Five nineteenth-century and thus managed to (excursion chalet, horse centre,
fortresses (Forte Lodrino, avoid the plundering stage of Alta Via track)
Bruciato, Tagliata, Scarato and violence of passing via Giovo 50
armies that befell its
Forests and wind generators between and Moglie) testify to its
former importance. The neighbours. The landscape
Ph. 019 705511, 349 7477437
www.planethorse.it
Liguria and Piedmont pure waters of the River is characterized by wide
horizons and gently rolling
Ristorante Il Fiume
via Roma 3, Ph. 019 705147
Erro are said to contain
www.ristorantefiume.it
little specks of gold. countryside and instils
Upper Erro Valley is not well known by tourists but it Ristorante Pizzeria Pub
peace in its inhabitants La Pineta
deserves a greater renown. Here you can find meadows The Alta Via dei Monti and visitors alike. via Giovo 25, Ph. 019 705069
covered by flowers, wide woods with tasty mushrooms Liguri
and quiet eco-friendly wind generators, some rocky The beautiful path that Galloping across Mioglia
runs from east to west the uplands Town Hall Ph. 019 732014
points of observation just as some dry areas of Southern www.comunemioglia.it
along the entire watershed The rolling uplands of
Apennines. between Liguria and the Mioglia have neither
Affittacamere La Volpe e la
Luna (rooms) via Dogli 272
Po Valley passes close to the ruggedness of the Ph. 328 8313722
Pontinvrea and across mountains nor the www.lavolpeelaluna.com
the Giovo Pass. The Alta monotony of the plain. Agriturismo Munarin
Via dei Monti Liguri is the The best way to explore Caterina via Savona 30
area’s trekking “highway”. them is on horseback, Ph. 019 732260
along paths through www.agriturismomunarincaterina.it
It is linked to other
B&B Casa di Alfredo
mountain paths suitable country villages, woods
via Acqui 14, loc. Schegli
for walkers, cyclists, and pastures, in the Ph. 019 7352509, 346 5209506
and horse riders that search for tuvi, tuff hills www.casadialfredo.it
go through the relieves containing fossil shells. Hotel Ristorante Oddera
covered by green grass in Horse rides can take you piazza Gen. Rolandi 2
summer and white snow up to the border with Ph. 019 732026
Piedmont, amidst the Osteria il Pirata
in winter.
woods and mountain via Savona 2, Ph. 019 732224
Trattoria Pizzeria La Viora
The Marquises of streams, where it is
via Avera 10, loc. La Viora
Invrea possible to swim. Ph. 019 732171
In the seventeenth century
22 23Dego Giusvalla. This rural village TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP
Castles, churches… with 450 inhabitants was Dego
Town Hall Ph. 019 577792
Dego, a small town of founded in the Middle www.comune.dego.sv.it
2,000 inhabitants on Ages around a fortification Affittacamere Trattoria
the ancient Roman Via built on an important Belvedere (rooms) loc.
Sanvarezzo 13 Santa Giulia
Aemilia Scauri, has several route between Piedmont Ph. 019 57290, 347 5257844
historical attractions: and the hinterland of Affittacamere Villa Maria
the ruins of the Castello Genoa. (rooms) via Supervia, 5
Ph. 339 4627349
Del Carretto (castle); giorgio.bosio3@tin.it
the parish churches of Lose yourself in the Agriturismo Cascina Palazzo
Bormiola and Santa woods loc. Bormiola 28, Ph. 019 57343
Endless chestnut and www.cascinapalazzo.it
Giulia; Borgo Castello Azienda Agricola Biologica
(whose origins are beech forests surround di Mario Ferrari (organic farm,
perhaps Roman), with its Giusvalla, inhabited by sausages, cheese) loc. Scorticate 1
Art Nouveau style Villa curious and rather bold (road from Girini to Berri)
Ph. 019 578088, 340 2316732
Rossa and a memorial roe deer. The paths Azienda Agricola di Domenico e
stone in memory of the around the village reach Pera (farm) loc. Porri
Blessed Teresa Bracco, some of the hills along Ph. 019 512845, 347 7330659
the ridge between the Azienda Agricola Cascina nel
who died in 1944 and is Pozzo (meat, sausages and cheese)
venerated in the valley. Bormida and Erro Valleys. loc. Pozzo 1, Ph. 347 0155526
You can take the lane Azienda Agricola La Carpeneta
that leads off the Viale (farm) via Supervia 48
A stone’s throw from
Ph. 019 57613
the Langhe delle Robinie or the one B&B Della Costa
The plain formed by branching off the main loc. Costa Santa Giulia
the River Bormida road to Pontinvrea just Ph. 019 57690, 333 6209537
gio.ele@libero.it
BORMIDA
and the surrounding outside the village; both
B&B Zia Zelinda
hills that slope down enter the woods and loc. Villa di Brovida 5
towards Piedmont are wind their way between Ph. 348 7076005
DI SPIGNO VALLEY
the huge trees and views Bar Red Rose (snack bar)
covered in broad-leafed, via Savona 10, Ph. 019 5778027
conifer, chestnut and over Mount Viso and the Cooperativa Allevatori
beech woods; they are Maritime Alps. Follow the Bestiame CAB (meat production
roads by car, on foot, on and sale) piazza Nicola Panevino 1
ideal for excursions
Hotel Ristorante Da Rosina
horseback or by mountain
Piedmontese Liguria on foot, horseback or
bicycle. Truffles and wild bike.
via La Collina 18, Porri
Ph. 019 578008, 019 578161
mushrooms are plentiful Osteria di Facello Zaira
The Bormida di Spigno Valley is a piece of Liguria with here. The views are “Il Giovo in bicicletta” via Martiri della Libertà 18
Ph. 019 57529
a Piedmontese flavour. This may be due to its history, unforgettable and stretch (Giovo by bike) Pizzeria Ristorante Valle
marked by feudal struggles and rulers who were local from Mount Beigua and This is the name of seven Verde piazza IV Novembre 2
mountain bike trails that Ph. 019 57267
(the Del Carretto Marquises), from Monferrato and then the Riviera di Ponente to Ristorante Agriturismo
Mount Viso, the Maritime cross the valleys, woods Le Sorgenti loc. Nassoli 5
from Savoia family; or perhaps to the river that flows and villages of seven Ph. 019 578075, 347 7676383
Alps, the Langhe and Alto
northwards, towards the Po... In any case, the dialects Monferrato. Collina del municipalities above the www.quellesorgenti.it
Tavola Calda Il Chiosco
spoken here have a Piedmontese sonority and the excel- Dego is a beautiful forest main Aurelia road: Stella, (snack bar) loc. Colletto 6
lent local truffles “smell of sea”. with paths, roads, picnic Urbe, Sassello, Pontinvrea, Ph. 019 577041
areas and pure springs; Mioglia, Giusvalla and Tavola Calda Minibar
Quiliano. (snack bar) via Nazionale 39
it borders with Adelasia Ph. 019 577061
Reserve and Savona Giusvalla
Forest. Town Hall Ph. 019 707010
turismo.provincia.savona.it/it/
localita/giusvalla
Agriturismo Lo Scoiattolo
Giusvalla loc. Rapetti Ph.019 707203
False-Acacia Avenue 338 6232701
agrloscoiattolo@tiscali.it
A row of ancient, knotty B&B La Badiola loc. Cavanna 26
and imposing false Ph. 019 7073341, 347 1096014
acacias dating back www.labadioladigiusvalla.it
Ristorante Affittacamere
to Napoleonic times Cavallo Bianco (with rooms)
welcomes visitors to piazza Anselmi 9, Ph. 019 707017
Trattoria Miravalle
loc. Cavanna 12, Ph. 019 7073307
24 25Piana Crixia The “mushroom” is the TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP
Langhe of Piana Crixia subject of many local
This area borders with legends, which range Piana Crixia
the Langhe region of from the Deluge to Town Hall Ph. 019 570021
Piedmont. The Langhe Napoleon, who is said to www.comune.pianacrixia.sv.it
di Piana Crixia Regional have tried in vain to take
Park protects this unusual it back to France. Adriano Parmigiani
landscape of gorges with (honey and beehive products)
striking eroded clayey and loc. Lodisio Costa 2
marly rock formations. Rocca Ph. 019 570328
They are unique in dell’Adelasia Agriturismo La Celestina
Liguria and form waves of At the centre of the loc. Gallareto 16
sand and clay on which woods of Montenotte, at Ph. 019 570292
pioneering vegetation the heart of a wild and 338 6635903
attempts to float. The almost uninhabited area, www.agriturismolacelestina.net
park is crossed by paths not far from a lonely B&B La Casa Heyoka
that can be followed on and charming country loc. Lodisio Costa 2
foot or mountain bike, road, Rocca dell’Adelasia Ph. 019 570328, 338 8896761
along the gorges and Natural Reserve is a really lacasaheyoka@libero.it
thick woods. The views interesting protected area Bertorelli Gianpiero
are sweeping and the of about 500 hectares. (“formaggetta” cheese)
spring flowers spectacular, Inside the woods there loc. Bertorelli 1
there are even two are great beeches and Ph. 019 57939
varieties of wild orchid. hundred years old Casa per Vacanze
chestnuts; in damp areas Johanna Noyon
PIANA CRIXIA
Rare and precious uncommon plants and (holidays homes)
truffles wild orchids; delicate and loc. Pian del Nasso 1
The area around Piana wonderful settings in (road for Lodisio)
AND THE ROCCA Crixia is home to the the Karst caves hidden Ph. 019 5704005
white truffle, the most by vegetation; streams johanna.noyon@alice.it
precious variety of have real limpid water. A Cooperativa Allevatori
DELL’ADELASIA the Langhe’s rare and
aromatic fruits of the
earth. It is harvested
good system of trails go
through the area; they are
fit for hiking, cycling and
Bestiame CAB
(meat production and sale)
via Chiarlone 48
between September horsing; they allow the Giuliana Masio
“Piana cum castro et capella” and December and discover of little treasures (“formaggetta” cheese)
accompanies local of nature and Napoleonic loc. Cascina 6
dishes served in the trenches as well (proof Ph. 019 570162
...in other words, a plain with fortifications and a chapel:
area’s restaurants: meat of the battles of the Hotel Ristorante
this is how the town is described in a document dated 991. young revolutionary Villa Carla
and vegetable ravioli,
The axes and stone tools discovered in the area indicate that mushrooms, game and French general fought loc. Pontevecchio 23
the site was inhabited in Neolithic times, and subsequently Dolcetto wine. here during the Italian Ph. 019 570019
by the Ligurians and Romans, who founded “Crixia”. Pia- campaign). Between hotel.villacarla@alice.it
The imposing Fungo beeches and rocks the Ristorante Antica Mansio
na Crixia, which currently has 800 inhabitants, was once
of Piana Crixia massif of Monte Rosa can via Valpiana 8
part of the Marca Aleramica and was subsequently divided be seen at the horizon. Ph. 019 5704003
The most famous
between the rule of Ligurian and Piedmontese lords. “personality” of the Ristorante Il Castello
Langhe di Piana Crixia is del Fungo
the “stone mushroom”: loc. Borgo 1
an ophiolite boulder Ph. 019 570073
that has protected Trattoria Tripoli
the underlying soil via G. Chiarlone 2
from erosion and is Ph. 019 570028
suspended on a thin
layer of rock. It is 14
metres high and weighs
260,000 kilograms.
26 27Cairo Montenotte very welcoming and one ruins of the feudal castle
A town with thousands of the best preserved in and several handsome
of years of history the region, with coloured churches testify its past.
The town’s earliest houses, arcades, bars,
inhabitants were Neolithic cafés and many shops A cultural town
farmers and hunters, with original and elegant Càrcare is the birthplace
followed by the Romans, painted signs. of the writer Anton Giulio
who founded Carium on Barrili (1836-1908). His
the Via Aemilia Scauri. Infinite woods former house is now
Today Cairo Montenotte Montenotte’s vast woods the municipal library,
is the largest town in the are inhabited by roe which has kept his
Langa Savonese with deer and wild boar and correspondence with the
13,000 inhabitants. The are home to delicious politicians and scholars of
local dialect is closer wild mushrooms and his day. Goffredo Mameli
to Piedmontese than centuries-old trees, composed the words of
Ligurian. At Montenotte such as the Faggio alle Italy’s national anthem at
Napoleon defeated the Traversine beech tree, on the Collegio Calasanzio.
Austrians on 12 April the main road. Hiking
1796, during his Italian through these woods The Scuola dei Grigi
campaign and the means full immersion in a During the late nineteenth
remains of the trenches natural world that can be century Càrcare became
can still be seen. enjoyed from the spring a famous holiday resort.
to late autumn, along the The period coincided with
A medieval touch nature trails of Sentieri the pictorial movement
Cairo’s history can be Bormida Natura BN and known as the Scuola dei
cairo read in the remains of its
fourteenth-century walls,
its tower and the ruins of
of Alta Via dei Monti
Liguri.
Grigi (“Grey School”),
due to the muted tones
of its outdoor painting.
montenotte, its castle. The Church of
San Lorenzo is a national
Horses and
photographs
The old village of Ferrania
Its exponents included
Ernesto Rayper and other
Genoese painters.
CÀrcare
monument, whilst the old
residence of the Scarampi boasts an abbey that is
Marquises is known as almost a thousand years
Altare
AND Altare
the “Caminata”. On old and, right in the
Saint Laurence’s Day (10 middle of an extensive An Art Nouveau town
August) “Medieval Cairo” plain, the remarkable The town of Altare is
is celebrated in the old Art Nouveau industrial set amid the green
architecture of the surroundings of the
The towns of Ligurian Val Bormida town.
Ferrania factory, which Colle di Cadibona,
Murals, birds and was famous the world traditionally the transition
The cultural and economic centre of Spigno Val Bormida stone bridges over for its production of point between the Alps
are three small “artistic towns” rich in history, architec- History is also evident in photographic material. and the Apennines. Its
ture and handicraft. the hamlets of Carretto The area is now ideal for origins are medieval and
(perhaps the original horseback riding. it once belonged to the
home of the Del Carretto Del Carretto family. It
Marquises), with its ruined was subsequently ruled
castle, and Rocchetta, Càrcare over by the Marquises
with the “Roman” bridge A Roman town of Monferrato, who
built by the Alemanni Càrcare was a Roman introduced the craft of
over the River Bormida post on the Via Aemilia glassmaking. Today it
near the bird reserve and Scauri. It is now a centre is a pretty little town
its houses with their many of glass and pottery with 2300 inhabitants,
colourful murals. production with almost set in the lush greenery
6,000 inhabitants. Its of the Apennines and
Underneath the colourful, elegant old embellished with
arches… town overlooks the River exuberant Art Nouveau
The old town of Cairo is Bòrmida of Pàllare. The architecture (dating
28 29from the early twentieth Huge trees and cold
century), in the form waters
of palaces, villas and Both can be found on
industrial buildings. the road to Màllare: the
mineral water springs of
The Savona Forest Vallechiara and the four
Altare is in the centre of monumental trees of Li
the huge, thickly wooded Piani – two sequoias, a
Savona Forest, which has Nordmann fir and an
supplied the area with Atlas cedar, each 30
wood and clean air for metres tall and 110 years
thousands of years. This old.
endless green expanse
is ideal for walking and
mountain biking. Beech,
durmast, Turkey oak and
chestnut trees grow in the
forest, alongside ferns,
butcher’s broom, juniper,
holly and broom. Foxes,
hares, squirrels, herons
and slow, silent flying
birds of prey can all be
seen with a little luck. The
Tecci Fortress stands on
the Colle di Cadibona and
was built to defend the
valley.
Sand, fire and glass
Sand heated in the
fire, blown and worked
into glass: this art has
earned Altare’s master
glassmakers world
renown since the fifteenth
century. In 1495 the
University of Glass was
founded in the town. It
laid down the statutes
that regulated the art.
The finest production
of Altare’s master
glassmakers is housed
in the Museo del Vetro
(Glass Museum), in the
splendid Art Nouveau
setting of Villa Rosa.
Antique pieces can be
seen in the museum, but
the master glassmakers
still practise the traditional
working in their shops,
in order to keep this
precious art alive in the
future.
30 31TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP Osteria del Vino Cattivo Affittacamere Ristorante Affittacamere
via A. Sanguineti 16 La Casa del Vescovo San Giovanni del Monte
Cairo Montenotte Ph. 019 500196 (rooms) via Cornareto 7 (with rooms)
Town Hall Ph. 019 507071 Pizzeria da Luciano Ph. 339 7562224 via S. Giovanni del Monte 79
www.comunecairomontenotte.it piazza della Vittoria 54 www.lacasadelvescovo.com Ph. 019 5142194
Rifugio Cascina Miera Affittacamere www.lecameredellasoms.com
Affittacamere (excursion chalet, stage of L’Oste Pinocchio Ristorante Il Girasole
Pensione Alpi Alta Via track), Adelasia park (rooms) via Garibaldi 77 via Rinchiuso 1
(rooms) strada Ville 19 Ferrania, Ph. 019 5221 Ph. 019 518992 Ph. 019 511776
Ph. 019 50830 Ristorante Al 54 339 7562224 Ristorante Il Quadrifoglio
Affittacamere Villa Eugenia via Cortemilia 54 Antica Osteria via XXV Aprile 29
(rooms) via Santa Maria 21 Ph. 019 506229 da Palmira Ph. 019 517289
Ph. 340 0815987 Ristorante Alpi via Castellani 40 Ristorante La Baracca
www.eugeniabedandbreakfast.com Osteria da Palin Ph. 019 510218 loc. San Giovanni del Monte
Agriturismo Cascina del Vaj piazza XX Settembre 6 Azienda Zootecnica Ph. 019 518838
strada Ville 140 Ph. 019 504730 Roberta Erbi (livestock) Ristorante Pizzeria
Ph. 019 50894, 333 8128990 Ristorante I Portici loc. Negreppie, Vispa al Bracere
Apicoltura Aldo Castellano via dei Portici 7 Ph. 338 6955932 via Nazionale 107, Vispa
(honey) via Medaglie d’Oro 16 Ph. 019 5090335 B&B La Magnolia Ph. 019 510573
Ph. 328 1142377 Ristorante La Bruschetta via M. D’Azeglio 26 Trattoria La Vispa Teresa
B&B All’ombra dei via Martiri della Libertà 151 Ph. 338 4777270 via Nazionale 86, Vispa
Castagni Ph. 019 504023 lamagnolia.carcare@libero.it Ph. 019 5144073
strada Sant’Anna 61 Ristorante Ore 12 B&B La Via del Sale
Ph. 393 5311658, 347 0487114 (Self Service) via Castellani 97/2
www.allombradeicastagni.com via Andrea Colla 13 Ph. 366 7318355 Altare
B&B La Casa dei Ciliegi Ph. 019 504032 laviadelsale.carcare@gmail.com Town Hall Ph. 019 58005
via Colletto 93, Rocchetta Ristorante Pizzeria B&B Viglizzo Maria www.comune.altare.sv.it
Ph. 347 0025274 Al Bunker Margherita
www.bedandbreakfast- via Martiri della Libertà 7 via Pavese 8 Affittacamere Trattoria K2
casadeiciliegi.it Ph. 019 503969 Ph. 019 517020 f.demicheli@ (with rooms) salita Arcara 19
Caffè XXL Extralarge Ristorante Pizzeria Il Drago virgilio.it Ph. 019 584478
viale della Libertà, Ferrania corso Marconi 150 Cafè Agorà laurapesce@alice.it
Enoteca A Cantinetta San Giuseppe piazza Sandro Pertini 8 Birrificio Artigianale
(whine shop) corso Mazzini 13 Ph. 019 504209 Ph. 019 512080 Charle’s
Ph. 019 503211 Ristorante Pizzeria La Grotta Cooperativa Allevatori (homemade brewery)
Enoteca Taverna via Dellavalle 15 Bestiame CAB (meat via Matteotti 12
La Baia degli Angeli Ph. 019 505019 production and sale) Ph. 338 6029967
(whine shop) Ristorante Pizzeria via Diaz 1 at OK Market Cristallerie di Altare
strada Colombera 2 Lupo Solitario Hotel Relais Villa di Vanessa Cavallaro
Ph. 019 504631 via Ospedale 19 degli Aceri (artistic glass engraving)
Hotel Ristorante City Ph. 019 502009 largo Don Minzoni 2 piazza Vittorio Veneto 6
via Brig. Partigiane 54 Ristorante Pizzeria Ph. 019 517026 Ph. 019 584112
(SP 29), Ph. 019 505182 Maruzziello www.relaisvilladegliaceri.it I vetri di Sandro Bormioli
www.hotelcitycairo.it corso Marconi 171 La Taverna di C. Bormioli (artistic glass
Hotel Ristorante San Giuseppe di Mangiafuoco manufacturing)
della Stazione Ph. 019 518030 piazza Genta 2 via Roma 39/41
via Indipendenza 4/8 Ristorante Sole Rosso Ph. 019 518992 Ph. 019 584506
San Giuseppe corso Dante Alighieri 114 Museo Alpino www.bormioliartevetro.com
Ph. 019 5144063 Ph. 019 5079878 (Alpine troops Museum) Locanda Ristorante
Hotel Ristorante La Torre e Tavola Calda 8 Mile Rd Bar via Garibaldi Quintilio
Pizzeria Porta Soprana (snack bar) Ph. 019 5154100 via Gramsci 23
corso Italia 29 viale della Libertà 13, Ferrania 338 1317766 Ph. 019 58000
Ph. 019 506211 Tavola Calda Lunico www.comune.carcare.sv.it www.ristorantequintilio.it
La Taverna degli Elfi (snack bar) Osteria Da Balda Museo dell’Arte Vetraria
strada Braia 1, loc. Le Ville via Martiri della Libertà 167 via Garibaldi 2, Ph. 019 511483 Altarese
Ph. 019 50877 Trattoria Il Rifugio Osteria con cucina (Glass Art of Altare Museum)
Locanda Contrada di Gianni di Vanda Moreno at Villa Rosa
dei Fattori via Montenotte 2 via Cosseria 33 piazza Consolato 4
via Bellini 2, Ph. 019 599478 Montenotte Inferiore Ph. 019 510457 Ph. 019 584734
www.contradadeifattori.it Ph. 019 59803 Pub Il Maltese www.museodelvetro.org
Milk & Coffee piazza Genta, 1 Raffaello Bormioli
(snack bar) Càrcare Pizzeria La Sirena (artistic glass manufacturing)
Bormida Shopping Centre Town Hall Ph. 019 5154105 via delle Vetrerie 22 via Paleologo 16
corso Brigate Partigiane 28/d www.comune.carcare.sv.it Ph. 019 511241 Ph. 019 58254
32 33The Sanctuary two groups of 90-year- 120-year-old Norway
For local people it is old beeches near the spruce in Trincata.
simply “Il Santuario”, houses in Ravè, along
rather than the Shrine of the main road, and a
Our Lady of Mercy , who
is the patron of Savona.
The large, elegant, richly-
decorated seventeenth TASTE, DISCOVER, Museo del Santuario
SLEEP di Savona
century church is one
(Shrine Museum)
of the most important
The hamlets of Savona piazza del Santuario 6
religious buildings of the Azienda Agricola Santuario
Riviera delle Palme, and Biologica e Agriturismo Ph. 019 879025
it has been proclaimed Tre Santi www.santuariosavona.eu
“National Shrine of the (organic farm, oil, meat, eggs) Ostello per la gioventù
brotherhoods of Italy”. It loc. Ciantagalletto 7 Villa De Franceschini
is surrounded by a pretty Ph. 019 852623 (youth hostel)
little village of the same 340 6872440 via alla Strà 29
martass@libero.it Conca Verde
name, on the edge of the
Azienda Olivicola Canaiella Ph. 019 263222
huge Savona Forest. The
(oil) via Canaiella, Legino 339 8309835
Museum of the Sanctuary
Ph. 019 860190 www.ostello-de-franceschini.com
preserves paraments, 348 7966111 Ristorante Conca Verde
sculptures, jewelry, B&B Cà Pramusa via alla Strà 27
textiles, paintings and ex- via Santuario 105 Conca Verde
THE SANCTUARY votos telling the history
of the forms of devotion
San Bernardo
Ph. 019 879522
Ph. 019 26331
www.rpconcaverde.it
Ristorante Da Enzo
OF SAVONA
to the Virgin of Mercy 347 1226585
from the XVI century. caterinarestuccia@libero.it via Cimavalle 19r
B&B Il Cappero Santuario
The peace of Santuario is
via Marmorassi 52/A Ph. 019 879063
“broken” every year by
Ph. 019 852662 Ristorante da Michelin
The Letimbro Valley the traditional religious
333 5329696 loc. San Bartolomeo
procession of the 18th http://bbilcappero.weebly.com/ del Bosco 28
The province of Savona boasts the largest wooded area of March with hundred B&B La Quiete Ph. 019 879012
of believers and some via Marmorassi 28 Ristorante Madonna
in Italy, as soon becomes apparent from a trip along the
brotherhoods of Savona Ph. 019 810112 del Monte
hilly roads of its chief town. They lead from the city centre
and all Liguria; from the 347 8274826 via Nostra Signora
up to the higher hamlets, through a landscape domina- laquiete@tele2.it del Monte 70
Cathedral of Savona
ted by the colour green. A deep and primitive green, dot- people reach Santuario B&B Palazzo K Ph. 019 822969
ted here and there with the red of the roofs of farms and in a three hours walk for via S. Bartolomeo Ristorante Trentadue
scattered houses, the yellow of broom in flower, the deep del Bosco 86/1 via Cimavalle 61
a mass and a visit to the
Ph.328 1234084 Santuario
blues of the nearby sea and the white of the distant Alps. evocative crypt.
www.palazzok.com Ph. 019 879057
Campeggio Buggi Ristorante Villa Noli
via N.S. del Monte 15 via Cimavalle 57
Up and up, Ph. 019 804573 Santuario
towards the sky Hotel Locanda Ph. 019 879154, 340 2518745
The highest areas of del Santuario www.villanoli.it
the Savona Forest have via Santuario 133
illustrious inhabitants. Santuario
The region of Naso di Ph. 019 879215
Gatto alone boasts four
monumental trees: a
100-year-old false cork
oak in Pian del Merlo,
34 35QUILIANO AND Quiliano
Hilltop hamlets and
farming villages on
Monumental Trees
Quiliano boasts at least
two monumental trees:
and it has become a
DOC wine. Buzzetto
is a dry white wine,
THE HAMLETS the plains
Today Quiliano’s 7,000
a huge 150-year old
yew in the park of Villa
Maria (the former town
ideal accompaniment
for traditional Ligurian
cuisine. Its name is
OF VADO LIGURE
inhabitants are scattered
among hilltop hamlets hall) and the towering perhaps derived from the
and farming and artisan magnolia of Roviasca, word “buzzo”, meaning
villages on the plain near which is 200 years old. unripe, due to its rather
the coast. Here the houses sharp flavour. Buzzetto
Via Julia Augusta are brightly painted or Quiliano, a wine town was a mainstay of the
made from ancient stone, Quiliano is a familiar local economy as far
Quiliano is situated on the Via Aemilia Scauri, built by the squeezed between the name to wine experts back as 1200. It is a very
Romans in 109 BC and later renamed Via Julia Augusta caruggi (narrow lanes). worldwide due to the fine wine, and the Del
by the Emperor Augustus; it connected the Ligurian coast town’s production of two Carretto Marquises used
The Savona Forest fine rare wines, Granaccia to allow their poorer
to the Po Valley and Provence. The remains of five stone and Buzzetto. Granaccia peasants to pay their
The Upper Quiliano Valley
bridges built in 124 BC, two of which can still be crossed is part of the Savona vine is internationally taxes in barrels of this
by foot or car, still stand on this ancient road, driving to- Forest: 220 hectares known by its Spanish nectar. It has various
wards Cadibona. of thicklywooded land name, Alicante, and is local names: Lumassina
that for many centuries used to produce the or Buzzetto in Quiliano;
supplied the timber for great red Riojas in Spain. Mataosso in Noli and
the ships of the fleet of It was introduced to the Varigotti; Uga Matta in
the Maritime Republic Quiliano Valley in the Spotorno; and Garella in
of Genoa. Despite its eighteenth century by the hills around Savona.
proximity to the coast, local families that traded
this is a fascinating wild with Spain. Granaccia is Fertile lands,
forest, criss-crossed with a deep red wine, which tasty fruit
easy to follow tourist acquires ruby tones The countryside around
trails. following 3-4 years of Quiliano does not just
ageing. It goes well with produce wine, but also
game and hard cheeses excellent Valleggia
36 37apricots. TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP Miele Miresa Cerro - Rita Scarrone
It’s a Slow Food (honey) via Trexenda 2 via San Rocco 5
Presidium (quality mark) Quiliano Roviasca, Ph. 019 8878025 - Franco Torcello
Town Hall Ph. 019 2000501 Osteria Molini via Cavassuti 8, Roviasca
characterized by hardy,
www.comune.quiliano.sv.it via Molini 5, towards Ph. 019 8878411
firm, tasty and with
Montagna, Ph. 347 1275585 - Dionisia Turco
speckled skin fruits. This Affittacamere Il Respiro Rifugio Cadifugio via Bertone 7, Ph. 019 887153
variety of apricot tree del Tempo (rooms) (excursion chalet) - Innocenzo e Lorenzo
was developed here at via Don Peluffo 8 via Bricco 45, Cadibona Turco via Bertone 7a
the beginning of the Ph. 019 8878728, 339 6646785 www.cadifugio.com Ph. 019 887120
twentieth century, and ilrespirodeltempo@libero.it Ristorante Battiato Valleggia apricot producers:
it is celebrated with a Agriturismo Lorenzo Turco al Borgo - Le Riunite
festival in Valleggia. via Bertone 7 via Don Peluffo 14r wholesale fruit and vegetables
Ph. 019 887120, 019 2000026 Ph. 349 2889723 market
www.innocenzoturco.it Ristorante Da Tina loc. Pilalunga, Ph. 019 886326
Azienda Agricola piazza Caduti Partigiani 3 - Ortofrutticola fruit and
The hamlets of Bonanomi Giovanni Ph. 019 887116 vegetables market
Vado Ligure (farm) via XXV Aprile 28 Ristorante Il Torchio via S.Pietro 2 Valleggia
The hamlets of Vado Azienda Agricola Il Verde e La Macina Ph. 019 2165059
Ligure have much in (flowers) via Diaz 38r via Termi 3, Valleggia Vini e Vini (wines)
common with those of Valleggia, Ph. 019 885183 Ristorante La via Diaz 118 r, Valleggia
nearby Quiliano: the Azienda Agricola La Churrascaria Ph. 019 2100292
same coastal countryside, Magnolia via Burrè 27, Cadibona
the same passion for (typical sheep and Ph. 019 89124 The hamlets of Vado
goat’s milk cheese, Ristorante La Farinata Ligure
winegrowing, the same
“giuncata”,“granaccino”, da Beppe Agriturismo Sotto le Stelle
hills on which olive trees via Don Peluffo 2R via Gavotti 25
“ricotta”)
make way for holm oak via Bossolo 2, Roviasca Ph. 347 7261806 loc. Cà du Facullo, Segno
and sweet chestnut at Ph. 338 2651926 Ristorante Pizzeria Ph. 340 9385666
higher altitudes. Bossarino Azienda di Ivana Cortazzo La Fenice Antico frantoio (oil mill)
is a small, centuries-old (soft fruit, strawberry, kiwi, via Viarzo 1r, Ph. 019 8878483 di Mario Tavian Vigliola
farming village situated honey) via Cà Nova 2 Ristorante Società Ponte dell’Isola, Segno
on a low ridge. It has Val Quazzola, Ph. 019 89238 Operaia Cooperativa Ph. 019 888167
Azienda Agricola via Longagnini 15, Cadibona B&B Casa Antico Borgo
typical coloured houses,
La Tenuta di Trecento Ph. 019 89017 via Tommaseo 35, Bossarino
archivolts, narrow streets
(farm) via Grande 11 Ristorante U Gottu Ph. 019 2046174
and vineyards. Behind piazza della Chiesa 6R Centro Ippico I Tigli
Ph. 019 884820
the busy industrial area of B&B Casalina Valleggia, Ph. 019 2100182 (horse centre) loc. San Genesio
Vado is the Vado Valley, via Chicchezza 7, Montagna Rita Sparzo (wine, oil, Ph. 339 6897164
which offers a discreet, Ph. 333 5221998 “giuncata” cheese) Museo della Civiltà
friendly welcome to rolandi-andrea@libero.it via Nuova Viarzo 39 Contadina
visitors who wish to B&B Gli Ulivi Ph. 019 887228 (Country Culture Museum)
discover its peasant soul via Viarzo 28/2 San Pietro in Carpignano Casa Celesia, Valle di Vado
Ph. 019 887013, 340 6851034 (archeological area and Ph. 019 886350
and to stop for lunch in
bbgliulivi@libero.it church) info at Town Hall Ristorante Agriturismo
one of its restaurants. The
B&B I Tecci Ph. 019 2000511 Cà di Gatti
road climbs even higher Trattoria il Giardino via dei Tedeschi 2
via Tecci 5a, Ph. 019 8878946
towards the forest, until 333 8077017 via Briano 6r, Valleggia loc. Rocche Bianche, Segno
you reach Segno and consoli.tecci@alice.it Ph. 019 881157 Ph. 019 884277
the Pollupice horse trails Centro Ippico Piano Trattoria la Pergola Ristorante Il Portico
beyond the village with dei Carpi (horse centre) via Torcello 3, Valleggia via Piave 222, Valle di Vado
extensive views over the via Nazionale Piemonte 156 Ph. 019 882541, 347 2367123 Ph. 019 885250
Riviera di Levante. Cadibona, Ph. 347 1648410 Typical wine producers, Ristorante San Domenico
347 1649464 e.g. “Granaccia” and S.O.M.S. Pace e Lavoro
Erboristeria e Apicoltura “Buzzetto”: via Piave 182, Valle di Vado
Molinari (herbalist’s, honey) - Andrea Canova Ristorantino Da Beppe
via A. Moschini 2, Valleggia via Tecci 34, Ph. 019 887010 via E. Pertinace 4
Ph. 019 886851 - Marcella Isetta Sant’Ermete, Ph. 019 888333
Massimo Becco (oil) via Dodino 24 Trattoria Da ü Giuan
via Brandini 10 - Luca Murgia via Piave 226, Valle di Vado
Ph. 019 887467, 335 380383 Azienda Agricola Riasca Trattoria Il Castello
Miele Eliana Boagno (farm) S.M.S. Fratellanza Segnese
(honey) via Tecci 32 via Cavassuti 4, Roviasca via Grillo 1, Segno
Val Quazzola, Ph. 019 887501 Ph. 019 887080 Ph. 019 888000
38 39You can also read
