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TEXTILES IN DEPTH/SEC. II KORS TAPS PRESIDENT OF MICHAEL/2
Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 7, 2003 Vol. 186, No. 73 $2.00
WWDTUESDAY
Ready-to-Wear/Textiles
Mix Masters
MILAN — The Italian spring collections were a veritable
print-fest, and some of the best patterns and
combinations of them came from Domenico Dolce and
Stefano Gabbana. Their Dolce & Gabbana collection, in
fact, was a romp of playful motifs, which often went all the
way down to the feet, including hose and even shoes.
There were great-looking dresses, pants and skirts in bold
prints, along with shapely suits that could be dressed up
or down, and a striking evening lineup. Here, one of their
dresses, in a bold mix of patterns with peekaboo details.
For more on the season, see pages 6 to 12.
Chanel’s Mega Maisons:
Remodeled Paris Store
Now Largest in World
By Miles Socha
PARIS — Call it the first leg of Chanel’s
triple crown.
The revitalized flagship on Rue
Cambon here — the first of the luxe
brand’s three major redo’s, with Tokyo
and New York to follow — is now the
biggest Chanel store in the world. And
yes, one encounters marble, gold and
even flecks of diamond practically at
every turn.
But as Chanel president Françoise
Montenay stressed, the 8,600-square-foot
flagship on Rue Cambon was built on a
“human scale,” where luxurious
See Chanel, Page13
PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI
2 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003
Buyers See Salable Milan
MILAN — Retailers left Milan
all smiles, pronouncing the
with brights and pale tones. We
also saw great novelty items,
beat. It was a great moment at
Pucci with colorful, beautiful
WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles
Italian fashion season upbeat,
feminine — and infinitely
like capris and pants cropped at
the knee with ties and buckles.”
prints. It really is the marriage of
Figaro with Christian Lacroix and
GENERAL
FASHION: Prints were a dominant motif in the Milan collections, in all their
saleable. Banishing black and
tailoring, designers here un- Robert Burke, vice president and
Pucci. Marital bliss. Donatella
Versace brought back the great
6 wild variety, as collections drew to a close.
Chanel has unveiled its largest store in the world — the refurbished and
leashed an explosion of color,
prints and feminine details on
senior fashion director, Bergdorf
Goodman: “I thought Milan had
moments of the Eighties in a sexy,
sophisticated, beautiful show.” 1 enlarged Rue Cambon flagship in Paris — the first of three mega-redos.
the runways last week. high highs and low lows. Where Retailers left Milan all smiles, pronouncing the Italian fashion season
Dresses of all persuasions,
Fifties skirts, chiffon blouses and
New York was consistent, Milan
had a great deal of variety.
Sue Patneaude, executive vice
president designer apparel,
2 upbeat, feminine — and infinitely salable.
Michael Kors is continuing to recruit a star lineup for its Michael launch,
cuffed shorts topped shopping
lists, while collections from Prada,
Gucci, Pucci, Roberto Cavalli and
There were outstanding shows
from Dolce & Gabbana with
their bright color story, which
Nordstrom: “It’s an exceptional-
ly wearable and commercial
season in Milan. It’s not too sexy
2 tapping Gia Castrogiovanni president of the brand’s women’s unit.
EYE: Since its opening in 1994, Murray Moss’ hyper-chic SoHo shop has
Versace earned top grades.
Here’s what retailers from
was also feminine and upbeat.
Versace was also very strong. I
or overt for the customer to
wear. It’s a great season for a
4 become the city’s mecca of industrial design. Here’s an inside look.
around the world had to say: think there was a lot of creativity customer to create her own mix WWDTextiles In Depth: Interwoven World, a special report, is included in this issue.
with color — it was very wear- of feminine, romantic and sexy Classified Advertisements ..................................................................22-23
Joan Kaner, senior vice presi- able, but also fresh and interest- looks. We like all the prints and
To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is
dent and fashion director, ing. Jil Sander was monumental colors. And there cannot be a
Neiman Marcus: “Prada and because it was completely new. piece of chiffon left in any facto-
firstname.lastname@fairchildpub.com, using the individual's name.
Miu Miu were standout collec- She didn’t do the expected and ry in the world. There’s not a SUBSCRIPTION RATES
U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135.
tions. The mood, the vitality, the really pushed the envelope. structured piece in sight. I loved All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595.
prints — especially the Venice Prada was quintessential the femininity as seen at Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273;
outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196
one — were all terrific. There Miuccia, and she showed won- Blumarine, the sexiness at Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008.
was a feminine trend happening derful range and creativity.” Roberto Cavalli and the knock- WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional
issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc.
for fall and we see it continuing out prints at Pucci. Also, the a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191.
for spring — beyond that I don’t Janet Brown, owner, Janet Brown, Missoni retrospective show was WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc.,
a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved.
know, but it’s right for now. Port Washington, N.Y.: “I look for- a major fashion moment with No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
There is an important color ward to an extraordinary season. great emotional impact for all including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be
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All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of
Kors Taps Castrogiovanni for Michael WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY.
For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com.
By Eric Wilson
NEW YORK — Michael Kors Inc. is
continuing to recruit a star lineup
2004 retailing that is slightly
higher priced than many of the
designer lines that are moving
into the better category with
lion dollars” in infrastructure
and personnel so the Michael
collection can be designed and
developed in-house. ●
In Brief
TENDERED ARE THE SHARES: RCS MediaGroup SpA on
for its new Michael launch, nam- launches next year. The scope of “Gia has a tremendous Monday said it has completed its tender offer for all the out-
ing Gia Castrogiovanni as presi- Michael is also greater than record of success in her previ- standing American depository shares of Fila Holding SpA, with
dent of the Michael women’s divi- many of the other entries, en- ous endeavors and we had a each ADS representing one of Fila’s ordinary shares. Milan-
sion on Monday. compassing women’s, men’s and great time working together on based RCS paid $1.12 a share, upping its stake in the Italian
Castrogiovanni, who resigned many accessories categories the original launch of the sportswear company by 7 percent to approximately 98.2 percent.
as chief operating officer of with a simultaneous launch. Tommy Hilfiger women’s collec- RCS said it plans to use the buyout to sell Fila’s subsidiaries to
Mossimo Inc. last week, con- The company has made several tion,” Stroll said. “With her on private investment firm Sport Brands International for $351 mil-
firmed she will join Michael significant additions to its staff board, in addition to the great lion in cash. As reported, at its annual meeting on Oct. 24, Fila
Kors next Monday in the new already, including Anne team already in place, we will said it will ask shareholders to vote on changing the company’s
role. She has an extensive histo- Gorfinkle as senior vice presi- reach our goal of becoming a name and delisting the stock from the New York Stock
r y with the designer, having dent of women’s design; Dean billion-dollar company.” Exchange. With the board’s approval, the new company would be
launched the original Kors Micklewhite as senior vice pres- Castrogiovanni has also called RCS Investimenti SpA, and Fila Holding’s registered seat
bridge collection in the ident of men’s design; Stephen worked as a vice president of would be transferred from Biella, Italy, to Milan. Both measures
Nineties, as well as with the DiGeronimo as women’s design sales at Dana Buchman. During would be effective in January.
new owners of the company, director, and Melanie Reichler the five years she had worked at
Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou, as vice president of production Mossimo, she held the titles of ● SIMON SAYS, AGAIN: Simon Property Group Inc. and
when she was vice president of for the new lines. chief operating officer, treasur- Westfield America Inc. once again extended their tender offer
sales for the launch of the Stroll and Chou, through er and secretary. As reported deadline for Taubman Centers Inc., this time to midnight
Tommy Hilfiger women’s collec- their partnership in Sportswear Friday, Mossimo Giannulli, Eastern Standard Time on Oct. 31. The previous deadline was
tion in 1996. Holdings Ltd., which acquired chairman and chief executive Friday. As expected, Taubman again rejected the entreaty, saying
As reported, Michael Kors the business in January, are officer of the firm, said her re- the partnership’s acquisition of about 19.6 million, or 24 percent,
will launch a lower-priced col- making an investment on the sponsibilities will be divided of the approximately 81 million Taubman voting shares is “clear-
lection called Michael for fall scale of “several hundred mil- among several vice presidents. ly insufficient to meet Simon’s own minimum tender offer condi-
tion to purchase the company,” since approximately 54 million
voting shares must approve any sale or amendment to
Taubman’s charter.
Eleanor Lambert Gravely Ill
NEW YORK — Eleanor Lamb- 10 and has remained active, at-
ert, the fashion publicist who
worked with virtually ever y
tending fashion shows during
the New York collections in
Correction
major fashion designer of the September, including the pres- Silmo, Salon International de l’Optique Lunnetterie (eyewear, re-
20th century, was in a coma as entation by Geoffrey Beene lated equipment), Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris, France
of press time Monday, af ter and a cocktail reception for will be held Oct. 17-20. The show dates were incorrect in the
suffering what doctors believe the newest members of the International Trade Show Calendar, Section II, page 21, on May
was a stroke a week ago, her Council of Fashion Designers 28. Contact: Isabella Ferreira. Tel: (33-1) 4909 6126. Fax: (33-1) 4909
family said. of America. 6106. E-mail: iferreira@comexpo-paris.com. Web site: silmo.fr.
Lambert turned 100 on Aug. She has played a major role
in the evolution of the
celebrating 40 years in the business of fashion - 1963- WWDStock Market Index for October 6
O pen
American designer industr y
and established many of its or-
2003 • celebrating 40 years in the business of fashion - ganizations and traditions, in-
Composite: 116.01 Broadline Stores: 117.28 Softline Stores: 114.84
1963-2003 • celebrating 40 years in the business of cluding the CFDA, the original
on Broadway
fashion - 1963-2003 • celebrating 40 years in the busi-
ness of fashion - 1963-2003 • celebrating 40 years in the
de
Coty Awards, the first coordi-
nated fashion weeks in New
York and the International Best
Dressed List. 0.69 0.89 0.24
Marco 40
business of fashion - 1963-2003 • celebrating 40 years in She also organized the
Vendors: 112.17 Textiles: 90.84
American contingent of the
the business of fashion - 1963-2003 • celebrating 40 milestone 1973 fashion show at Index base of 100 is
keyed to closing prices
years in the business of fashion - 1963-2003 YEARS
Versailles, which helped estab-
• celebrat- lish designers in this country as of Dec. 31, 2002.
ingNY
40- 212-869-8255
years in the business
1400 Broadway • LA
of fashion - 1963-2003 • cele
- 213-622-4439 a force equal to that of Europe’s 0.42 1.54
established fashion capitals.
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4 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003
X
The eclectic Moss. Inset: Birds in Venini glass at $29,000 each.
Gathering Moss NEW YORK — Fashion pros hover around the “Fashion was on the downswing in 1990 and I thought, Daily, he moves merch
eye design store, Moss, buying up gifts, seeking
inspiration and happily emptying their pock-
® ets for items both whimsical and essential.
Since its opening in 1994, Murray Moss’
hyper-chic SoHo shop has become the
‘Wouldn’t it be nice to take this whole sector in a new di-
rection?’” says Moss. “No one was interested.”
Not that he’s bitter. When Charivari’s Jon Weiser fi-
nally bit, lending a corner to the home concept, Moss re-
alized just how good his idea was and struck out on his
from one spot to another
on the sales floor, brings in
new items and takes others away. “I approach my store as
a greengrocer and make decisions based on whatever
looks fresh,” he says. “Every morning I say, ‘Does any of
city’s mecca of industrial design for everything from a own instead. this make sense today?’”
$42 steel champagne whisk to decorative birds made But relying on exclusivity or a novel concept was not Beyond working fashion’s strategic angles, Moss still
from Venini glass — selling for $29,000 each. And if it an option. If he succeeded, his store would spawn imita- finds the subject itself compelling. How could he not —
feels like home to the designers, editors and buyers who tors. “I learned in fashion that you can’t think people it’s everywhere. “Objects don’t exist in a vacuum,” he
flock there, it should: Moss is one of fashion’s own. have to work with you because there’s no one else,” says says. “Fashion is such a powerful machine, I’d rather
The original Moss store opened on Madison Avenue Moss. “I like to imagine a store directly across the street ride the wave.”
in 1979. Stocked with avant-garde fashion designed by that has all the same stuff. Then I think about how to get Moss’ customers, after all, come in directly after vis-
Ronaldus Shamask, it flourished during the Eighties, people to come to me instead.” Of course, what that iting Louis Vuitton. “Whatever Marc communicated to
when business partners Moss, formerly an actor, and proverbial store across the street doesn’t boast is the them is a very strong story,” he says. “I’d rather use that
Shamask became New York’s editorial darlings. While quirky, expensive and expansive taste that creates his than ignore it.
the good times didn’t last — after a bit- shop’s harmony. “People know how to look at fashion and there are
ter trademark dispute in 1990, Moss left Working fashion’s lifestyle model, endless venues for communicating its ideas,” he contin-
the industry behind — the ways of fash- Moss avoids the ho-hum merchandising ues. “How many windows have cutlery in them?”
ion informed the beginnings of his tactics employed by his peers. “In indus- Cutlery, which he calls the underwear of design —
Greene Street store. trial design, candlesticks are still in the it’s that intimate — is Moss’ obsession. But since trading
“That’s what I took from fashion,” candlestick department,” he says. “But cashmere for cutlery, the fashion-industrial design
says Moss one afternoon, smiling at his people are so hungry to learn. The idea crossover hasn’t always agreed with him. For example,
rows of sunny glass vitrines. “People of grouping things by lifestyle, by men- he thinks that fashion designers who do home collec-
run their hand over a rack of clothes tality, is bound to move into other areas.” tions should give it a rest.
and they think they’ve seen it all.” Since opening day, when a lone trash “A pianist plays music and a cellist plays music, but I
Not at Moss. can graced the front window, Moss’ treas- wouldn’t ask a pianist to play the cello and I wouldn’t
The store’s labyrinthine layout ures have been arranged in provocative assume that someone like Giorgio Armani could make a
makes it next to impossible to take the vignettes. In one glass case a Doberman chair,” he says. “The difference is vast and it’s presump-
whole thing in with one glance. Ted Pinscher cast in Nymphenburg porcelain tuous to think, ‘If I can do this, I can do that.’ ”
Muehling’s curvaceous silver candle- poses coyly amid a cluster of delicate Of course, there are a few exceptions, including
sticks, classic designs by Georg Jensen, drinking glasses. Halston’s home collection and Hussein Chalayan’s fash-
cult treasures from new stars like Tord But that arrangement could change ion-cum-furniture collection. Moss would have loved to
Boontje and innovations like Zani & at any moment. The fashion idea Moss see what Vionnet could have done, but he also thinks
Zani’s metallic lace tablecloth are all would most like to teach the design-buy- that, given her architectural sensibility, Jil Sander
locked away behind glass, as if in a mu- ing public is simple: Change is good. might make a mean chair.
seum display. Murray Moss “When people come in they think, ‘We Following his own logic, however, Moss won’t pro-
“My first thought about a shop was, had better like this cutlery or these duce a private label collection or take on the role of de-
‘Is it just somebody in the way? A troll under the glasses or this sofa for our whole lives and our feelings signer himself. “I’m a merchant and it’s a full-time job,”
bridge?’” says Moss, a sweet-faced, well-pressed man about it should never change,’” he says. “But you don’t he says. “Just because I look at everything doesn’t mean
who’s often found right here, minding the store. ever hear anyone say, ‘I’m not buying that jacket be- that I can design.”
It might seem obvious that a design-curious customer cause I won’t be able to wear that five years from now.’ He also nixes the idea of opening any branch loca-
who spends thousands on a Yohji Yamamoto coat would “From fashion, I gained the confidence and the com- tions, preferring to stay put and expand his 7,000-square-
probably shell out the same for high-concept house- fort in knowing that you are going to change.” foot store. “My model would be Bergdorf Goodman,” he
wares, but in the early Nineties the idea was still risky. In fact, Moss, who travels to six or seven design fairs says. Someday there might be vertical expansion, a Moss
Before landing on Greene Street, Moss conducted an ex- each year, is always searching for what he calls “idea- hardware store or a restaurant. “But at the very end,”
periment in his apartment, buying items that demon- rich objects” — and changes his mind all the time. “I start Moss says, “I’ll probably be one of those old design guys
strated his cool, setting up a mock shop and showing it in aisle A and finish with aisle Z. I look at everything I’ve who opens a summer theater in Woodstock.”
to retailers with the hope of forming a new partnership. seen before because I may feel differently now,” he says. — Jessica Kerwin
WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 5
RUDE AWAKENING: Last March, being fired she and de Pury took
MEMO PAD
Louise MacBain stunned the New
York art world when she purchased
the influential trade magazine, Art &
rooms in the St. Regis hotel and flew
the Concorde, and, just for good
measure, Ward raises the question of
Asda to Launch Sports Clothing Brand
Auction. Coming after her disastrous whether de Pury, who’s now dating LONDON — Asda, Wal-Mart’s cial England team soccer shirt
BLIP: Is Radar over? Technically, it stint at Phillips auction house, Anh Duong, used MacBain in order to U.K. subsidiary, plans to unveil that’s made by Admiral and sells
isn’t until Maer Roshan says so, but where she was hired and then fired get her to invest. If there’s any glee a clothing and accessories line for $13.36.
does the rest of his team agree? by her then-boyfriend, chairman for MacBain, it’s that Ward seems to for sports fans, to be sold Under the terms of the agree-
While Roshan insists he’s this close Simon de Pury, many thought the think her purchase of Art & Auction alongside its in-house fashion ment, Asda will be the exclusive
to landing the financing he deal was a revenge move. made de Pury crazy. When he heard, brand George. Admiral licensee for the U.K.
desperately needs — from July to But no amount of sniping could “he was shaking and there were tears Early next year, Asda will roll market. In the U.K., Admiral is
September, he was perpetually two have prepared MacBain for the in his eyes,” a source told Ward. out Admiral, a line of men’s, best known as a clothing brand
weeks away; now he won’t set a women’s and children’s athletic- for cricket players and fans.
evisceration she experiences in When asked why she’d agreed to
inspired apparel and accessories, “In addition to the incremen-
timetable — there are signs the November’s Vanity Fair, which be profiled for Vanity Fair and sit to be made under license from tal revenues that we will gener-
staff is beginning to dissipate. comes out Wednesday. down with a hard-core reporter the U.K.-based International ate, it will also significantly en-
Chief operating officer Paul Fish, In it, Vicky Ward profiles MacBain, known for her brutally tough Brand Licensing plc. hance the visibility of the Admiral
i.e., the man with the business plan, quoting friends and colleagues of the profiles, MacBain said she hadn’t George and Admiral will brand,” said Lance Yates, chair-
is slowly backing away from the former couple, who rehash every bad known who Ward was. She said she jointly source, design and manu- man of IBL.
magazine, two sources said, gradually thing that happened between them was told VF wanted to do a piece on facture the new line, which will Neither Asda nor IBL would
abdicating his role as the point man and say almost universally nasty her business, including some stuff consist of sporty clothing such reveal sales projections for the
on Roshan’s fund-raising efforts. things about her. on Phillips (which she wouldn’t as soccer and cricket T-shirts, line, or the duration of the li-
Roshan described this as “absolutely Among them: that MacBain comment to them on) and that she tracksuits and sweatshirts with censing agreement. Both compa-
wrong,” adding, “we are cautiously “nearly tanked the business”; that “always [talks] to the press about various team logos, as well as nies said they would release fur-
optimistic about receiving new when people at the company were my business.” — Jacob Bernstein luggage and footwear. ther details of their agreement
funding.” Fish himself promptly Asda currently carries an offi- later this month.
called, saying, “You are obviously
badly informed,” and added,
“Maer and I have always taken an
active lead in fund-raising.”
They may still be showing
solidarity, one source close to the
pair said, but “that doesn’t mean
they’re still at it the way they were
before, and it doesn’t mean they’re
not fizzling,” as far as their
relationship is concerned. “It’s not
in either’s best interest to admit it.”
It’s also telling that Roshan,
two more sources said, recently
began contacting a new round of
potential intermediaries —
people who know people with
money — without Fish and
supposedly while crossing the Ts
on his main round of financing.
Roshan replied that, as the
founder of a fledgling magazine
seeking money, this is what he’s
supposed to do.
Also drifting off is Ignition
Media’s Elinore Carmody, the
former publisher of George who,
along with Larry Burstein (now
New York magazine’s publisher),
filled in as de facto publishers for
the first two issues, landing blue-
chip advertisers like Prada, Gap
and Calvin Klein. She’s gone —
at least for now.
“No, we don’t have a
publisher, and it is in limbo at
this point in time,” admitted
Radar’s West Coast ad rep, Bill
Harper, of Harper & Associates.
Carmody declined comment,
while Roshan pointed out that he
holds the publisher title on the
masthead and that Carmody is a
consultant. “And we’ve gotten
over 50 pages already for the
third issue,” he said (without
saying when a third issue might
appear). “We’re still very much
selling ads.” But Harper and
Radar’s Midwest rep, Michael
Sanders, said it’s still very much
in limbo. “Nothing is alive, and
nothing is dead,” Harper said.
The bulk of the editorial staff,
meanwhile, remains on a furlough
that began just after Memorial
Day. Not needing the space, Radar
recently abandoned its main office
on 11th Street and moved into
smaller digs in the West Village.
Several employees have taken jobs
at the likes of Miramax and GQ,
but, as Roshan points out, none of
the senior editors have accepted
full-time offers elsewhere. “They
all remain excited and committed
to this idea,” Roshan said. “It
gives me my impetus to continue
knowing they still believe in this.”
— Greg Lindsay
6 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003
Roberto Cavalli
Motif
Power
MILAN — Prints and patterns swept
through the spring collections here, as
designers fell under the spell of
arresting mixes of pastels or brights.
Florals and geometric motifs were
favorites, turning up on looks
ranging from abbreviated surfer
shorts to racy evening dresses.
Versace
Pucci
Etro
Antonio Berardi
WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003
PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA
7
8 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003
Sensual and Sexy
At Marni, Consuelo Castiglioni experimented with draped shapes, while Alessandro Dell’Acqua created simple,
sensual looks for Borbonese and the Byblos designers were inspired by “Sex and the City.”
Marni: In this season of girlish delights, Consuelo
Marni Byblos
Castiglioni missed the perfect opportunity to shine.
Instead of doing what she does best — pretty, feminine
milan
clothes with a bohemian bent — she decided to tinker
with proportions, sending out a collection that, while cut
in those quintessentially cute Marni prints, got lost in the
folds and flaps of her experimental architecture. In a
style that Rei Kawakubo has mastered, skirts were
draped to provide extra lumps and bumps, while coats
came with oversized pocket pouches that poked out from
within the lining. The sleeves of the cropped jackets
bulged at the elbow. There were hanks, hunks, bunches.
A few pieces, however, left you longing for more of
their ilk — muted knits, which were worn with dappled
prints, and a clever printed silk jacket coated in clear
plastic and perfect for strolling in a spring rain.
Castiglioni has always gone in her own direction,
sticking with softer dressing at times when the rest of
Milan embraced hard glamour. Now that so many have
moved into her territory, it’s a shame she wasn’t there
to greet them.
Borbonese: It seems to be a happy marriage
between Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Claude
Arpels, whose investment group took
control of both Dell’Acqua’s brand and
Borbonese, which he also designs. These
days, as evidenced by his signature
collection, Dell’Acqua favors sensuality and
quality over trashiness, and that same
message came through in Borbonese, an
accessories house eager to build an
apparel business. He used a backdrop of
simple yet sexy pieces to set off great
accessories. A fleece-lined nylon parka
over shorts, for instance, was teamed
with an oversized clutch embossed
with rhinestones, while a striped
cotton shirt tucked inside a
miniskirt was finished off with a
roomy ostrich tote.
For evening, Dell’Acqua sent out a series of
black jersey pieces, including slip dresses and
tank tops over skinny trousers, and in a more
festive mood, sequined tank tops paired with frisky
mini skirts. And neon brights took over in
accessories in the form of an orange tote and high-
heeled crocodile sandals.
Byblos: The Byblos design trio — Stefano Citron,
Federico Piaggi and Greg Meyler — loves three
things: Sarah Jessica Parker, “Sex and the City” and
New York. What they find especially inspiring,
according to their press notes, is the “New York City
doll style” that fuses soft shapes and fabrics with the
city’s hard-edged attitude.
That vision boiled down to three key looks, repeated
in different colors and fabrics — flowy pleated-front
silk tops and dresses in orchid prints with rigid Empire
waistbands; structured vests and jackets with fur
collars worn over bikini bottoms or skirts, and chiffon
tops overlayed with chain mail and worn with padded
▲
Borbonese
skirts or cropped skinny pants. Carrie, Miranda,
Samantha and Charlotte, take note.
Featured Attractions
Designers ignited the Milan spring runways with vibrant colors, wild prints and labor-intensive
embellishments — and the accessories were right in sync, adding to the sensory overload. Footwear was a
glitzy parade of bejeweled, gravity-defying stilettos and sandals. But low-heeled shoes and flats were
important, too — ballerinas, beaded flip-flops, Sabrina pumps and interactive sneakers aglow with
unexpected bursts of gold and silver. Sergio Rossi, for example, worked with pointed and round toes in a
variety of heel heights. The more feminine shapes acquired a tough edge through insets of graphic metal
hardware, while, for high drama, he showed strappy sandals made with Plexiglas strips and colorful
rhinestones. Rossi also introduced a geometric handbag featuring a round metal ring on its strap. Clockwise from left: Tod’s Candy bags;
At Tod’s, it was Sixties-inspired Riviera glamour. The mood was best represented by the Candy bag, Cesare Paciotti’s pumps; a necklace, belt
shaped like a bon-bon with tiny bows on either side, and served up in delicious colors of everything from and shoes at Prada; Bruno Magli’s sandal.
python to satin. Another winner: the Sabrina shoe, a ballet slipper dotted with the company’s signature rubber
pebbles. Meanwhile, Hogan showed its sporty side. A new lightweight sneaker with a perforated H on the side
WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 9
Milan Buyers Delighted Sophistication Rules
When Marco Franchini, a former
Gucci executive, joined Bally in April
2002 as ceo, his mission was to boost
growth by luring a new fashion-con-
Continued from page 2 nine. There were references scious clientele while keeping the
Gucci Jil Sander
those who have known the to both the Fifties and the firm’s loyal customer base. And this
family for so long. To make the Twenties. I saw the Antonio spring collection should help achieve
day even more special, Angela Marras pieces in the show- that goal. Design director Melissa
showed the best collection she room and there was a strong Maish, who replaced Scott Fellows last
has ever presented.” Fifties element that didn’t December, dipped into the archives
necessarily come through in and served up a back-to-the-roots col-
Judy Collinson, executive vice the show. My only concern as lection, injected with just the right
president, Barneys New a retailer this season was the dose of trends.
York: “From a retail stand- trend of the shorts replacing “It’s a very favorable moment for
point, it’s a very positive sea- the miniskirt, which is great, Bally,” said Franchini. “We feel that
son — upbeat, full of color but I’m not sure how well it we’re on the right track, and the fact
and a desire to make women will be received in the that fall sales are already up 35 per-
look beautiful. It’s been full stores.” cent proves us right.” Other priorities
of clothes that you want to in his master plan include lower price
save up for — capri pants, Majed Al-Sabah, owner, Villa points, better quality and fit, new store
Fifties full skirts, beaded Moda, Kuwait: “It’s all about concepts and on-time deliveries.
necklines, very short pants, an explosion of colors, the
bandeau tops, chiffon, prints, best accessories, as in bags
ruffles and lots of dresses. and shoes, and the Fifties
No black anywhere. It’s as if skirt. Star collections includ-
designers wanted us to have ed Prada and Gucci, and I’m
a lovely spring — their minds so relieved with the great
were on pretty dresses and evening selections at Dolce &
clothes to pack for a roman- Gabbana, Fendi, Roberto
tic vacation.” Cavalli and Pucci.
Barbara Atkin, fashion direc- Anne Pitcher, buying director
tor, Holt Renfrew: “I’m really Prada for women’s apparel, Harvey
happy with what I’ve seen in Nichols: “It’s been a great sea-
Milan. I found it colorful, up- son. Spring is looking so pret- Bally's
lifting, positive and happy, ty, fresh, feminine and light. six-pocket
with collections filled with It’s just so happy, and it feels
tote,
colors and prints. Miuccia good to be happy again. I just
trenchcoat
Prada is the true artist. She’s loved Prada. It was hugely
absolutely unpredictable. And commercial but with a real and
Tom Ford is the true mar- point of view. Gucci was sandals.
keter. He knows exactly what strong, we loved the prints at
the Gucci customer wants and Marni and Dolce & Gabbana,
he delivered with a strong col- chaotic as they were.”
lection. Versace had beauti-
ful, sexy clothes and Armani Jeffrey Kalinsky, owner,
offered what our customer Jeffrey, New York and Atlanta:
needs to have.” “I loved the Jil Sander show. I
think it really set a tone. It
Joan Burstein, owner, Browns, Versace summed up the season. It was
London: “Prints, that’s what feminine and pretty, yet it was
it’s all about. It started in so sophisticated, chic and
London. That’s the strongest modern. It was refreshing.
message coming through. I Gucci was very strong. The
liked Prada very much. I Pucci show was a delight to
liked that image. The colors all the senses. Marni was so
are beautiful — like the sophisticated and so chic, and
greens. That was a noncolor the most exciting new design-
for years and now it is coming ers out there are DSquared.”
in all shades.”
Rosi Biffi, owner of six stores
Kohei Yanagisawa, executive including Biffi and Banner in
managing director, Hankyu: “I Milan: “Marni was fantastic, I
liked D&G and Prada. I’m loved all of it, it was extremely
also very interested in elegant, contemporary, so cre-
DSquared, which could be ative, but with a precise style.
popular in Japan. Goodbye to I also loved Pucci, which was
black. There were so many very contemporary. This was a
colors. There were fewer fun, joyful season, and there
miniskirts and more pants, was a strong effort from every-
which do well in the Japanese one. There was a focus to try
market.” to do one’s best. This is the As for the accessories, there’s some-
season of dresses and skirts, thing for everyone. To avoid that annoy-
Anna Garner, fashion director, which is a good direction be- ing search for keys or a cell phone at
Henri Bendel: “Overall, the cause everyone’s got enough the bottom of a handbag, Bally’s come
mood is very up, very soft, pants, so this opens up whole up with a six-pocket tote in mustard
very romantic and very femi- new opportunities.” yellow canvas trimmed in brown
leather, while, for girly moments, there
are cute white leather handbags show-
PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA
▲
Bold legwear at
was lit up with silver and gold leather strips, inserted in suede or cotton. ered with appliquéd roses. Shoes range
Dolce & Gabbana.
▲ Cesare Paciotti tapped into the folkloric by adorning his sexy stiletto sandals with colorful embroidery, from hand-molded, vegetable-dyed
René Caovilla’s
beading and tiny mirrors. There were lacquered wooden mules, too, decorated with fuchsia or lime green mink leather flip-flops to high tech cotton
sandals and bag. strips. René Caovilla, a master of sexy red-carpet numbers, gussied up his sandals with big silk roses, straps sneakers with ergonomic rubber soles
intertwined with wreaths of flowers and medallions lavished with turquoise and coral. and high-heeled cocktail numbers
Under a new design team headed by Alexander Zschokke, the venerable Bruno Magli accessories company adorned with leather flower medallions.
has launched a full-fledged handbag collection, best represented by the Ring bag in calf, python or crocodile The clothes are primarily sophisti-
with leather strips encircling it. Magli also has introduced a limited-edition shoe collection of four colorful cated basics that are not likely to be
pumps designed by artist Davide Pizzigoni. Fratelli Rossetti did ladylike shoes, too, with both high and low relegated to the back of the closet as
heels. Mules and sandals were covered with flowers, while flat slip-ons featured white, gold and silver strips the fashion tides swing. Among the
adorned with burnished metal coins. best: perforated leather trenches that
Hosiery, belts of all sorts and cascades of costume jewelry also were important this season. Stefano can unbutton to transform into short
Gabbana and Domenico Dolce added to their Dolce & Gabbana print fest with panty hose exclusively printed jackets; printed chiffon blouses peek-
in subtle patterns, while Mariella Burani had hers match the floral silks she used for her clothes. Meanwhile, ing out of zip-front leather jackets worn
waist treatments ranged from tough chic to fairy-tale pretty. Miuccia Prada treated her snakeskin belts to with shorts, and black halter tops over
match her clothes for Prada, while Rosella Tarabini used silver-buckled, raw-edged leather belts to set off her black pants.
girly looks at Anna Molinari and Karl Lagerfeld showed wide belts at Fendi.
10 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003
Linda Evangelista,
ready for Versace
An emotional
moment for
Fitting in at Jil Sander
Roberto Cavalli backstage
Ferré DSquared's Wild Ones
DSquared, behind the bleachers
image
THE bank
The Armani touch MILAN COLLECTIONS
Missoni backstage
Watching and
waiting at
Moschino
Tai and
Rosita
Tycoon-in- Missoni
training, walk
PPR's into a
François standing
Henri Pinault ovationWWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 11
Emporio
Armani
DSquared
The Missoni
workforce takes
a runway bow in
honor of the
company’s 50th.
▲
Laughs by Lagerfeld The Pucci lineup
Gucci
Mariah takes the lead backstage after Versace, as Donatella and Beyoncé follow A Gucci face Roberto Cavalli
Pucci
PHOTOS BY DAVE YODER12 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003
Fancy Free
Fashion Scoops
ROOM SERVICE: In yet another example that the
runway isn’t indispensible, Berlin’s conceptual
Bless label this week is taking its spring collection
directly to editors in their Paris hotel rooms — the
ones that stay at Costes K hotel anyway. Guests
there will be able to use items such as cashmere
sweaters and oversized towels during their stay.
Furniture and other knickknacks also have been
In Milan, you can have your espresso a dozen different ways design team, supervised by Francisco designed for the rooms and will be available for
— and the same is true of fashion. From contemporary so- Rosas, showed narrow and elongated wholesale prices in the temporary Bless
milan
phisticates to trampy vamps to tailored perfection, Italian silhouettes with tight waists and showroom off the lobby.
houses offered enough variety for spring to give you a kick tailored pencil skirts in shades of
without the caffeine. brown; tweed flared skirts and CHEAP AND NASTY: A year after publishing
Now that Antonio Berardi has a new secondary line ballerina corsets in pale rose, and a couture-priced reprint of Yves Saint
called 2die4, he seems less motivated to rein in the wacky revisited the safari jacket with Laurent’s cheeky 1967 comic strip, Nasty
factor for his main collection. His show was an overkill of oversized pockets. Of course, every Lulu, a “ready-to-wear” version is slated for
color, prints, accessories and embellishments. There were lady who lunches also needs a drop- launch. Paris publisher Sand & Tchou this
yoked skirts in floral shower plastic, mirrored and dead gorgeous evening gown, and Genny’s November will release a $25 version of the
embroidered vests over shredded and tiered skirts, sequin- floor-length, strapless pleated chiffon dress in book, which was reprinted last year in a luxury
laden handkerchief skirts under bustier tops, bunches of graded tones from quartz to tourmaline would make quite limited-edition run of 350, selling for $400.
multicolored pom-poms dangling off tops and bottoms. an entrance. The character, known as Vilaine Lulu in
Sound a tad excessive? Well, why stop there. Berardi didn’t, Agnona creative director Daniela Cattaneo knows her French, was inspired by a Dior employee who
gussying up everything with plastic bangles up to the elbow, customer and stayed true to her lifestyle with a delightful dressed himself up as a fat ugly girl for Mardi
ultrabright patent sandals and spring collection. Tea in the Gras. Saint Laurent wrote the cartoon to amuse
crash helmets with rear mirrors. Antonio Exte Cividini Iceberg garden? How about basket- himself and his friends.
They aim to please — weave capris with a belted linen
Berardi
everyone, it seems. So the design jacket in salmon pink. Lunch TEAM SPIRIT: Tomas Maier and the quirky
team at Exte hopped from one uptown? Try a teal cashmere Project Alabama have joined forces on
theme to another for spring, twinset with a chocolate silk limited-edition, hand-embroidered swimsuits
touching on such disparate trends skirt. Cattaneo seems to become for women and men. They will be launched at
as Mod, disco flash, rapper looks more focused and graceful each a cocktail party tonight during Paris fashion
and pretty cocktail numbers. season, and she has transformed week. Maier, creative director of Bottega
There were skimpy black leather Agnona from a knitwear brand to Veneta, said he designed the suits and
pieces decorated with macro full-fledged ready-to-wear Project Alabama did the embroidery. “There
polkadots in red, yellow and collection. are only 50 men’s suits and 100 women’s
white; sequined HotPants and Apart from the performance- bikinis,” he noted.
low-crotch denim rapper pants art antics — men running around Collaborations are increasingly in vogue.
paired with printed silk tops, and the stage in overalls and pig Elsewhere, Paris designer Jerome Dreyfuss has
fitted white blouses worn over snouts, a violinist and a pas de designed four outfits for Wrangler. Geared to
swingy skirts in wallpaper stripes. deux between a man and a “contemporary cowboys,” his denim looks are
Take your pick. mannequin’s torso — Holly on view at his showroom here.
Sport meets sexpot meets Genny Agnona Samsonite Krüeger sent out a sweet, spunky
cartoon kitsch was the perplexing Black Label spring collection. There were STARS AND STRAPS: “I’m still not used to
combination that Paolo Gerani charming pastel striped seeing my work on display. I can feel quite out
served up at Iceberg. There were miniskirts, off-the-shoulder, of place at events like these,” said Mary
sequined Mickey Mouse faces cropped jackets nipped at the McCartney at the opening of an exhibition in
splashed on slinky halter tops or waist and elegant wrap dress London of her photographs for the new Marks
low-slung belts — certainly not coats that were ruched in back. & Spencer MW lingerie line. Dressed in a gray
what Walt originally had in mind Think Lucille Ball meets Gwen suit designed by her younger sister, Stella,
— paired with tiny silk jogging Stefani. This is her third season, McCartney showed off the photos, which
shorts with neon racer stripes. and the American designer feature celebrities including Elizabeth Jagger,
Iceberg plays to a woman who successfully reined in her artsy Theodora Richards and actress Patsy Palmer, at
likes to keep her sleaze factor in (read: bizarre) tendencies to Vinopolis, a gallery in southeast London.
line with her sexual appetite and strike the right balance between McCartney shot the color photos for in-store
what better way to satisfy both feminine and kooky. displays and advertising. The new line,
than with a purple-and-green, Gigi Vezzola’s contract with launched in nearly all M&S stores nationwide
leopard-print chiffon halter dress? Brioni Samsonite Black Label ends with last week, features feminine designs in pastel
It seems that Pebbles Flintstone this season, and by the looks of shades aimed at a target market of 25- to 35-
grew up to be Pamela Anderson. the focused and innovative year-olds. Prices for panties start at $8.35
Knits, knits, knits — not! Piero collection he showed, he wanted while bras start at $20.
and Miriam Cividini stayed away to leave a lasting imprint.
from their house’s signature Trenchcoats, which fold neatly ALL TOGETHER NOW: Grit Seymour, the former
sweater looks for the most part, into bags, gelled nicely with designer of the Boss Hugo Boss women’s
and the result was pure ease with Samonsite’s utilitarian edge. collection, is piecing things together. Literally.
graphic accents. Low-slung Vezzola, who is mum on his next She and her husband, industrial designer
pencil skirts in cotton eyelet, design gig, also spun some eye Jerszy Seymour, will introduce their new
slinky silk shirts, safari jackets candy with tie-dye shirtdresses collection “tape” in the Palais de Tokyo in
and layered silk shifts were Nicola splattered with big polkadots, but Paris through Oct. 15. It’s a no-sew collection,
perfect for the cerebral type. But Holly Del he burned off the sugar with featuring T-shirts and bikinis made of pieces of
the pair did sneak in Capucci Krüeger Verme skinny skirts done in a charming cotton and Lycra spandex or microfiber jersey
multicolored striped knit tops, Prince of Wales pattern. stuck together by polyurethane tape.
which peeked out subtly from sleeveless belted jackets. In his second season at Capucci, Bernhard Wilhelm The “result of a subverted experiment,”
Meanwhile, it seems that Nicola Del Verme’s tenure as respected the house’s signature constructed looks but tape, to quote its creators, “is a collection of
creative director of Vestimenta has helped the young also experimented with more casual fare, like lime yellow clothes held together by a super tape ready to
designer become more commercial. While his tailoring has drawstring jackets and cropped pants. Wilhelm attempted do battle for good and evil to create clothes for
always been strong, for spring it was deft with skinny to update the company’s signature boxy looks, adding the postindustrial superhero, funky
jackets and high-waisted tuxedo pants. Del Verme is all boxy sleeves to a classic polo shirt, but, at times, the Frankenstein and sexy pink pantheress in all
about urban oomph, and he clings to black and beiges, results just looked fussy. The short Mod dresses were of us.” And the tape is permanent, stretchy
PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA
tossing in the occasional blush pink. However, he justly definitely lighter fare. and washable.
tempered his angst and slickness with finely layered chiffon Who says that leather has to be intimidating? Not The collection of some 60 pieces (the
halter-tops and gently pleated asymmetrical skirts. Guiliana Teso, who thinks that simple lines and elegant collection keeps growing, Grit said) has already
Luisa Beccaria has quite a following in Tinseltown, with colors are the right mixture for a sophisticated woman. No been picked up by TAD in Rome and Quartier
Uma Thurman and Charlize Theron among her fans. And flash and over-the-top colors for Teso, who instead offered a 206 Departmentstore in Berlin.
she kept them in mind with this collection. Backstage, she subdued palette of turquoise, melon and beige. Pretty pink The official opening on Thursday will
said Hollywood served as inspiration, but she also wanted suits, delicate beaded tops and suede pants made for an feature the installation, “scum city” (edition
to weave in wearable modern touches. So out came the understated yet polished spring collection. Gallery Kreo) by Jerszy Seymour, the
feminine Marilyn Monroe halter-back dresses and the Finally, Brioni is named for a set of islands off the underground DJ-turned-designer whose design
young, fresh black-and-cream polkadot silk minis paired Croatian coast that, at its height during the Twenties and work has been shown at the Design Museum in
with striped cotton tops. Like a movie sequel, the collection Thirties, served as a playground for Europe’s elite. Gentry, London, the Vitra Museum and Centre
had elements of Beccaria’s whimsy, but it ultimately relied aristocracy and privileged lifestyles were the inspirations Pompidou and is in the permanent collection
too strongly on past references, including floral dresses and for designer Fabio Piras. While he showed beautiful silk of the Fondation Nationale d’Art Contemporain
proper trenchcoats. Meanwhile, the designer is expanding navy polkadot pants with a bordeaux dotted duster, great in France. Karl Lagerfeld and Azzadine Alaïa
her offerings, with more daywear, a new line of handbags jackets and elegant wrap blazers, however, he lost his also have taken home his limited-edition
and swimsuits that suggested Esther Williams’ maillots. footing with layered drop-waisted chiffon dresses. Brioni is pieces for the Gallery Kreo in Paris.
Prada-owned Genny strolled back to the Fifties à la all about tailoring, and those frumpy dresses were the
Wallis Simpson and Cecil Beaton portraits. The company’s antithesis of it.WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 13
Chanel Starts Revamp Hat Trick
Continued from page one
materials are ubiquitous, but never ostentatious.
“Everything has been done to enhance the products, not overpower them,” she said
during an exclusive preview of the store, which was expanded by some 3,400 square
feet and completely refurbished over the past year by interior designer Peter Marino.
“We have huge collections and we really need to be able to show what we have.”
The Cambon store is the first of three “megastores” slated for special design treatment.
The next, a four-story unit in the Ginza district in Tokyo, is slated to bow in December
2004, with a major overhaul of the Manhattan flagship on 57th Street following in 2005.
New features include an area dedicated to Chanel knitwear and innerwear — the
only one in the world — plus a sumptuous VIP area in the basement that’s roughly the
size of a one-bedroom apartment.
“We wanted Cambon to be very special,” Montenay said, “and we want Chanel to sur-
prise. We have customers who come in two or three times a week and they want to see
new things.”
That shouldn’t be a problem. The store is so large that visitors even have a choice of
three entrances — each with a signature white marble threshold. But the idea is for
shoppers to navigate through a series of intimate “salons,” each with a different product
focus and distinct decorative touches. Even the carpets — all beige and made of the high-
est quality wools and silks in the world — have subtly different weaves in each room.
The idea, Montenay said, was to avoid monotony and uniformity, while maintaining
an overall color scheme and mood.
Texture is practically a religion at the Rue Cambon store, where Marino took pains
to avoid any plain or flat surfaces. Where walls are painted black, they received a spe-
cial treatment to make them resemble rock. On close inspection, gleaming black or bur-
gundy enamel panels glint with embedded flecks of silver or gold. Some walls evoke
miniature piano keys. Others, luminescent as real pearls, are composed of woven One of the ready-to-wear salons.
fiberoptic threads — and then pressed behind glass.
Some of the materials echo
Chanel’s famous tweeds, from
braided leather stools and nubby Accessories are showcased in several areas in the store.
gold-flecked sofas to coffee tables
depicting matte gold metalwork.
There are high tech features
interspersed throughout, too.
Giant, backlit images from Chanel
advertising campaigns, shot by
designer Karl Lagerfeld, peek out
from many alcoves, while flat-
screen TVs broadcast seasonal
fashion shows.
Marino said his starting point for
the boutique was Gabrielle Chanel’s
famous apartment, which is located
several floors above.
“We went through the Chanel
apartment and what I did was
keep the entire palette of white,
black, ivory and gold with a touch
of dark eggplant,” he explained.
“Then I tried to do everything in a
modern way. We’re trying to evoke
the feeling of Chanel — elegant,
chic and timeless.”
Accessories are carried in sev-
eral rooms — and walls of sun-
glasses appear several times — but
the overall merchandising scheme
is relatively sparse. “We don’t want
to overwhelm the customers,”
Montenay said. “We want them to
feel free to roam around the store A screen broadcasts Chanel
and discover things.” fashion shows regularly.
Apart from the knitwear room,
ready-to-wear is housed in the back
of the store in space previously occu-
pied by Chanel offices and stock
rooms on adjacent Rue Duphot. In total, rtw by Lagerfeld gets about 2,700 square feet of space.
Alight at the top of a brief flight of marble steps at the right time and visitors can
watch the Chanel runway show on a floor-to-ceiling screen in a darkened room. At other
times, the screen disappears, displaying Chanel sport looks. The final rtw room, in the
furthest recess of the store, is devoted to eveningwear. Here, mirrored panels are metic-
ulously wrapped in antique gold and silver ribbon — one mile’s worth.
Chanel began overhauling its global network of 191 boutiques and corners four years
ago, starting with a remote location in a commercial center in Japan and tweaking,
refining and individualizing the concept as it went along. The entire program should be
completed by the end of next year.
But Montenay stressed that it’s an ongoing work to perfect and individualize bou-
tiques. “In most of the stores, we have a specific atmosphere. A store in Austria is not
the same as in Spain,” she said. “They are from the same family, but they are not iden-
tical. Each has its own personality.”
PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE AND OLIVIER SAILLANT
The Cambon location has a rich history, since the legendary designer opened her
first boutique at No. 31 back in 1921. Today, the building also houses the couture salon,
offices and Lagerfeld’s design studios.
Closely held Chanel, owned by the Wertheimer family, never provides financial
information and Montenay declined to give sales projections for the large store.
However, she could not hide the fact that rtw has been selling briskly at Rue Cambon.
Some wall-mounted pegs, meant to showcase outfits from Lagerfeld’s collection, dis-
played handbags because the store has already sold 85 percent of its fall-winter inven-
tory throughout Europe, she said. “We are now waiting for the cruise collection, which
should arrive at the end of October,” she said.
She declined to pinpoint sell-through figures for other markets, but noted Chanel
sales in the U.S. are up about 37 percent for the season. As reported, Bergdorf Goodman
sold $3.1 million at a fall trunk show for Chanel last May, breaking records for the store The view from the entrance toward the ready-to-wear level.
and for New York.You can also read
