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TEXTILES IN DEPTH/SEC. II KORS TAPS PRESIDENT OF MICHAEL/2 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 7, 2003 Vol. 186, No. 73 $2.00 WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Mix Masters MILAN — The Italian spring collections were a veritable print-fest, and some of the best patterns and combinations of them came from Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Their Dolce & Gabbana collection, in fact, was a romp of playful motifs, which often went all the way down to the feet, including hose and even shoes. There were great-looking dresses, pants and skirts in bold prints, along with shapely suits that could be dressed up or down, and a striking evening lineup. Here, one of their dresses, in a bold mix of patterns with peekaboo details. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 12. Chanel’s Mega Maisons: Remodeled Paris Store Now Largest in World By Miles Socha PARIS — Call it the first leg of Chanel’s triple crown. The revitalized flagship on Rue Cambon here — the first of the luxe brand’s three major redo’s, with Tokyo and New York to follow — is now the biggest Chanel store in the world. And yes, one encounters marble, gold and even flecks of diamond practically at every turn. But as Chanel president Françoise Montenay stressed, the 8,600-square-foot flagship on Rue Cambon was built on a “human scale,” where luxurious See Chanel, Page13 PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI
2 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 Buyers See Salable Milan MILAN — Retailers left Milan all smiles, pronouncing the with brights and pale tones. We also saw great novelty items, beat. It was a great moment at Pucci with colorful, beautiful WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Italian fashion season upbeat, feminine — and infinitely like capris and pants cropped at the knee with ties and buckles.” prints. It really is the marriage of Figaro with Christian Lacroix and GENERAL FASHION: Prints were a dominant motif in the Milan collections, in all their saleable. Banishing black and tailoring, designers here un- Robert Burke, vice president and Pucci. Marital bliss. Donatella Versace brought back the great 6 wild variety, as collections drew to a close. Chanel has unveiled its largest store in the world — the refurbished and leashed an explosion of color, prints and feminine details on senior fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman: “I thought Milan had moments of the Eighties in a sexy, sophisticated, beautiful show.” 1 enlarged Rue Cambon flagship in Paris — the first of three mega-redos. the runways last week. high highs and low lows. Where Retailers left Milan all smiles, pronouncing the Italian fashion season Dresses of all persuasions, Fifties skirts, chiffon blouses and New York was consistent, Milan had a great deal of variety. Sue Patneaude, executive vice president designer apparel, 2 upbeat, feminine — and infinitely salable. Michael Kors is continuing to recruit a star lineup for its Michael launch, cuffed shorts topped shopping lists, while collections from Prada, Gucci, Pucci, Roberto Cavalli and There were outstanding shows from Dolce & Gabbana with their bright color story, which Nordstrom: “It’s an exceptional- ly wearable and commercial season in Milan. It’s not too sexy 2 tapping Gia Castrogiovanni president of the brand’s women’s unit. EYE: Since its opening in 1994, Murray Moss’ hyper-chic SoHo shop has Versace earned top grades. Here’s what retailers from was also feminine and upbeat. Versace was also very strong. I or overt for the customer to wear. It’s a great season for a 4 become the city’s mecca of industrial design. Here’s an inside look. around the world had to say: think there was a lot of creativity customer to create her own mix WWDTextiles In Depth: Interwoven World, a special report, is included in this issue. with color — it was very wear- of feminine, romantic and sexy Classified Advertisements ..................................................................22-23 Joan Kaner, senior vice presi- able, but also fresh and interest- looks. We like all the prints and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is dent and fashion director, ing. Jil Sander was monumental colors. And there cannot be a Neiman Marcus: “Prada and because it was completely new. piece of chiffon left in any facto- email@example.com, using the individual's name. Miu Miu were standout collec- She didn’t do the expected and ry in the world. There’s not a SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. tions. The mood, the vitality, the really pushed the envelope. structured piece in sight. I loved All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. prints — especially the Venice Prada was quintessential the femininity as seen at Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 one — were all terrific. There Miuccia, and she showed won- Blumarine, the sexiness at Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. was a feminine trend happening derful range and creativity.” Roberto Cavalli and the knock- WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. for fall and we see it continuing out prints at Pucci. Also, the a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. for spring — beyond that I don’t Janet Brown, owner, Janet Brown, Missoni retrospective show was WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. know, but it’s right for now. Port Washington, N.Y.: “I look for- a major fashion moment with No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, There is an important color ward to an extraordinary season. great emotional impact for all including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 story going on for spring, both Milan has been colorful and up- Continued on page 9 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of Kors Taps Castrogiovanni for Michael WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. By Eric Wilson NEW YORK — Michael Kors Inc. is continuing to recruit a star lineup 2004 retailing that is slightly higher priced than many of the designer lines that are moving into the better category with lion dollars” in infrastructure and personnel so the Michael collection can be designed and developed in-house. ● In Brief TENDERED ARE THE SHARES: RCS MediaGroup SpA on for its new Michael launch, nam- launches next year. The scope of “Gia has a tremendous Monday said it has completed its tender offer for all the out- ing Gia Castrogiovanni as presi- Michael is also greater than record of success in her previ- standing American depository shares of Fila Holding SpA, with dent of the Michael women’s divi- many of the other entries, en- ous endeavors and we had a each ADS representing one of Fila’s ordinary shares. Milan- sion on Monday. compassing women’s, men’s and great time working together on based RCS paid $1.12 a share, upping its stake in the Italian Castrogiovanni, who resigned many accessories categories the original launch of the sportswear company by 7 percent to approximately 98.2 percent. as chief operating officer of with a simultaneous launch. Tommy Hilfiger women’s collec- RCS said it plans to use the buyout to sell Fila’s subsidiaries to Mossimo Inc. last week, con- The company has made several tion,” Stroll said. “With her on private investment firm Sport Brands International for $351 mil- firmed she will join Michael significant additions to its staff board, in addition to the great lion in cash. As reported, at its annual meeting on Oct. 24, Fila Kors next Monday in the new already, including Anne team already in place, we will said it will ask shareholders to vote on changing the company’s role. She has an extensive histo- Gorfinkle as senior vice presi- reach our goal of becoming a name and delisting the stock from the New York Stock r y with the designer, having dent of women’s design; Dean billion-dollar company.” Exchange. With the board’s approval, the new company would be launched the original Kors Micklewhite as senior vice pres- Castrogiovanni has also called RCS Investimenti SpA, and Fila Holding’s registered seat bridge collection in the ident of men’s design; Stephen worked as a vice president of would be transferred from Biella, Italy, to Milan. Both measures Nineties, as well as with the DiGeronimo as women’s design sales at Dana Buchman. During would be effective in January. new owners of the company, director, and Melanie Reichler the five years she had worked at Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou, as vice president of production Mossimo, she held the titles of ● SIMON SAYS, AGAIN: Simon Property Group Inc. and when she was vice president of for the new lines. chief operating officer, treasur- Westfield America Inc. once again extended their tender offer sales for the launch of the Stroll and Chou, through er and secretary. As reported deadline for Taubman Centers Inc., this time to midnight Tommy Hilfiger women’s collec- their partnership in Sportswear Friday, Mossimo Giannulli, Eastern Standard Time on Oct. 31. The previous deadline was tion in 1996. Holdings Ltd., which acquired chairman and chief executive Friday. As expected, Taubman again rejected the entreaty, saying As reported, Michael Kors the business in January, are officer of the firm, said her re- the partnership’s acquisition of about 19.6 million, or 24 percent, will launch a lower-priced col- making an investment on the sponsibilities will be divided of the approximately 81 million Taubman voting shares is “clear- lection called Michael for fall scale of “several hundred mil- among several vice presidents. ly insufficient to meet Simon’s own minimum tender offer condi- tion to purchase the company,” since approximately 54 million voting shares must approve any sale or amendment to Taubman’s charter. Eleanor Lambert Gravely Ill NEW YORK — Eleanor Lamb- 10 and has remained active, at- ert, the fashion publicist who worked with virtually ever y tending fashion shows during the New York collections in Correction major fashion designer of the September, including the pres- Silmo, Salon International de l’Optique Lunnetterie (eyewear, re- 20th century, was in a coma as entation by Geoffrey Beene lated equipment), Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris, France of press time Monday, af ter and a cocktail reception for will be held Oct. 17-20. The show dates were incorrect in the suffering what doctors believe the newest members of the International Trade Show Calendar, Section II, page 21, on May was a stroke a week ago, her Council of Fashion Designers 28. Contact: Isabella Ferreira. Tel: (33-1) 4909 6126. Fax: (33-1) 4909 family said. of America. 6106. E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Web site: silmo.fr. Lambert turned 100 on Aug. She has played a major role in the evolution of the celebrating 40 years in the business of fashion - 1963- WWDStock Market Index for October 6 O pen American designer industr y and established many of its or- 2003 • celebrating 40 years in the business of fashion - ganizations and traditions, in- Composite: 116.01 Broadline Stores: 117.28 Softline Stores: 114.84 1963-2003 • celebrating 40 years in the business of cluding the CFDA, the original on Broadway fashion - 1963-2003 • celebrating 40 years in the busi- ness of fashion - 1963-2003 • celebrating 40 years in the de Coty Awards, the first coordi- nated fashion weeks in New York and the International Best Dressed List. 0.69 0.89 0.24 Marco 40 business of fashion - 1963-2003 • celebrating 40 years in She also organized the Vendors: 112.17 Textiles: 90.84 American contingent of the the business of fashion - 1963-2003 • celebrating 40 milestone 1973 fashion show at Index base of 100 is keyed to closing prices years in the business of fashion - 1963-2003 YEARS Versailles, which helped estab- • celebrat- lish designers in this country as of Dec. 31, 2002. ingNY 40- 212-869-8255 years in the business 1400 Broadway • LA of fashion - 1963-2003 • cele - 213-622-4439 a force equal to that of Europe’s 0.42 1.54 established fashion capitals.
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4 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 X The eclectic Moss. Inset: Birds in Venini glass at $29,000 each. Gathering Moss NEW YORK — Fashion pros hover around the “Fashion was on the downswing in 1990 and I thought, Daily, he moves merch eye design store, Moss, buying up gifts, seeking inspiration and happily emptying their pock- ® ets for items both whimsical and essential. Since its opening in 1994, Murray Moss’ hyper-chic SoHo shop has become the ‘Wouldn’t it be nice to take this whole sector in a new di- rection?’” says Moss. “No one was interested.” Not that he’s bitter. When Charivari’s Jon Weiser fi- nally bit, lending a corner to the home concept, Moss re- alized just how good his idea was and struck out on his from one spot to another on the sales floor, brings in new items and takes others away. “I approach my store as a greengrocer and make decisions based on whatever looks fresh,” he says. “Every morning I say, ‘Does any of city’s mecca of industrial design for everything from a own instead. this make sense today?’” $42 steel champagne whisk to decorative birds made But relying on exclusivity or a novel concept was not Beyond working fashion’s strategic angles, Moss still from Venini glass — selling for $29,000 each. And if it an option. If he succeeded, his store would spawn imita- finds the subject itself compelling. How could he not — feels like home to the designers, editors and buyers who tors. “I learned in fashion that you can’t think people it’s everywhere. “Objects don’t exist in a vacuum,” he flock there, it should: Moss is one of fashion’s own. have to work with you because there’s no one else,” says says. “Fashion is such a powerful machine, I’d rather The original Moss store opened on Madison Avenue Moss. “I like to imagine a store directly across the street ride the wave.” in 1979. Stocked with avant-garde fashion designed by that has all the same stuff. Then I think about how to get Moss’ customers, after all, come in directly after vis- Ronaldus Shamask, it flourished during the Eighties, people to come to me instead.” Of course, what that iting Louis Vuitton. “Whatever Marc communicated to when business partners Moss, formerly an actor, and proverbial store across the street doesn’t boast is the them is a very strong story,” he says. “I’d rather use that Shamask became New York’s editorial darlings. While quirky, expensive and expansive taste that creates his than ignore it. the good times didn’t last — after a bit- shop’s harmony. “People know how to look at fashion and there are ter trademark dispute in 1990, Moss left Working fashion’s lifestyle model, endless venues for communicating its ideas,” he contin- the industry behind — the ways of fash- Moss avoids the ho-hum merchandising ues. “How many windows have cutlery in them?” ion informed the beginnings of his tactics employed by his peers. “In indus- Cutlery, which he calls the underwear of design — Greene Street store. trial design, candlesticks are still in the it’s that intimate — is Moss’ obsession. But since trading “That’s what I took from fashion,” candlestick department,” he says. “But cashmere for cutlery, the fashion-industrial design says Moss one afternoon, smiling at his people are so hungry to learn. The idea crossover hasn’t always agreed with him. For example, rows of sunny glass vitrines. “People of grouping things by lifestyle, by men- he thinks that fashion designers who do home collec- run their hand over a rack of clothes tality, is bound to move into other areas.” tions should give it a rest. and they think they’ve seen it all.” Since opening day, when a lone trash “A pianist plays music and a cellist plays music, but I Not at Moss. can graced the front window, Moss’ treas- wouldn’t ask a pianist to play the cello and I wouldn’t The store’s labyrinthine layout ures have been arranged in provocative assume that someone like Giorgio Armani could make a makes it next to impossible to take the vignettes. In one glass case a Doberman chair,” he says. “The difference is vast and it’s presump- whole thing in with one glance. Ted Pinscher cast in Nymphenburg porcelain tuous to think, ‘If I can do this, I can do that.’ ” Muehling’s curvaceous silver candle- poses coyly amid a cluster of delicate Of course, there are a few exceptions, including sticks, classic designs by Georg Jensen, drinking glasses. Halston’s home collection and Hussein Chalayan’s fash- cult treasures from new stars like Tord But that arrangement could change ion-cum-furniture collection. Moss would have loved to Boontje and innovations like Zani & at any moment. The fashion idea Moss see what Vionnet could have done, but he also thinks Zani’s metallic lace tablecloth are all would most like to teach the design-buy- that, given her architectural sensibility, Jil Sander locked away behind glass, as if in a mu- ing public is simple: Change is good. might make a mean chair. seum display. Murray Moss “When people come in they think, ‘We Following his own logic, however, Moss won’t pro- “My first thought about a shop was, had better like this cutlery or these duce a private label collection or take on the role of de- ‘Is it just somebody in the way? A troll under the glasses or this sofa for our whole lives and our feelings signer himself. “I’m a merchant and it’s a full-time job,” bridge?’” says Moss, a sweet-faced, well-pressed man about it should never change,’” he says. “But you don’t he says. “Just because I look at everything doesn’t mean who’s often found right here, minding the store. ever hear anyone say, ‘I’m not buying that jacket be- that I can design.” It might seem obvious that a design-curious customer cause I won’t be able to wear that five years from now.’ He also nixes the idea of opening any branch loca- who spends thousands on a Yohji Yamamoto coat would “From fashion, I gained the confidence and the com- tions, preferring to stay put and expand his 7,000-square- probably shell out the same for high-concept house- fort in knowing that you are going to change.” foot store. “My model would be Bergdorf Goodman,” he wares, but in the early Nineties the idea was still risky. In fact, Moss, who travels to six or seven design fairs says. Someday there might be vertical expansion, a Moss Before landing on Greene Street, Moss conducted an ex- each year, is always searching for what he calls “idea- hardware store or a restaurant. “But at the very end,” periment in his apartment, buying items that demon- rich objects” — and changes his mind all the time. “I start Moss says, “I’ll probably be one of those old design guys strated his cool, setting up a mock shop and showing it in aisle A and finish with aisle Z. I look at everything I’ve who opens a summer theater in Woodstock.” to retailers with the hope of forming a new partnership. seen before because I may feel differently now,” he says. — Jessica Kerwin
WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 5 RUDE AWAKENING: Last March, being fired she and de Pury took MEMO PAD Louise MacBain stunned the New York art world when she purchased the influential trade magazine, Art & rooms in the St. Regis hotel and flew the Concorde, and, just for good measure, Ward raises the question of Asda to Launch Sports Clothing Brand Auction. Coming after her disastrous whether de Pury, who’s now dating LONDON — Asda, Wal-Mart’s cial England team soccer shirt BLIP: Is Radar over? Technically, it stint at Phillips auction house, Anh Duong, used MacBain in order to U.K. subsidiary, plans to unveil that’s made by Admiral and sells isn’t until Maer Roshan says so, but where she was hired and then fired get her to invest. If there’s any glee a clothing and accessories line for $13.36. does the rest of his team agree? by her then-boyfriend, chairman for MacBain, it’s that Ward seems to for sports fans, to be sold Under the terms of the agree- While Roshan insists he’s this close Simon de Pury, many thought the think her purchase of Art & Auction alongside its in-house fashion ment, Asda will be the exclusive to landing the financing he deal was a revenge move. made de Pury crazy. When he heard, brand George. Admiral licensee for the U.K. desperately needs — from July to But no amount of sniping could “he was shaking and there were tears Early next year, Asda will roll market. In the U.K., Admiral is September, he was perpetually two have prepared MacBain for the in his eyes,” a source told Ward. out Admiral, a line of men’s, best known as a clothing brand weeks away; now he won’t set a women’s and children’s athletic- for cricket players and fans. evisceration she experiences in When asked why she’d agreed to inspired apparel and accessories, “In addition to the incremen- timetable — there are signs the November’s Vanity Fair, which be profiled for Vanity Fair and sit to be made under license from tal revenues that we will gener- staff is beginning to dissipate. comes out Wednesday. down with a hard-core reporter the U.K.-based International ate, it will also significantly en- Chief operating officer Paul Fish, In it, Vicky Ward profiles MacBain, known for her brutally tough Brand Licensing plc. hance the visibility of the Admiral i.e., the man with the business plan, quoting friends and colleagues of the profiles, MacBain said she hadn’t George and Admiral will brand,” said Lance Yates, chair- is slowly backing away from the former couple, who rehash every bad known who Ward was. She said she jointly source, design and manu- man of IBL. magazine, two sources said, gradually thing that happened between them was told VF wanted to do a piece on facture the new line, which will Neither Asda nor IBL would abdicating his role as the point man and say almost universally nasty her business, including some stuff consist of sporty clothing such reveal sales projections for the on Roshan’s fund-raising efforts. things about her. on Phillips (which she wouldn’t as soccer and cricket T-shirts, line, or the duration of the li- Roshan described this as “absolutely Among them: that MacBain comment to them on) and that she tracksuits and sweatshirts with censing agreement. Both compa- wrong,” adding, “we are cautiously “nearly tanked the business”; that “always [talks] to the press about various team logos, as well as nies said they would release fur- optimistic about receiving new when people at the company were my business.” — Jacob Bernstein luggage and footwear. ther details of their agreement funding.” Fish himself promptly Asda currently carries an offi- later this month. called, saying, “You are obviously badly informed,” and added, “Maer and I have always taken an active lead in fund-raising.” They may still be showing solidarity, one source close to the pair said, but “that doesn’t mean they’re still at it the way they were before, and it doesn’t mean they’re not fizzling,” as far as their relationship is concerned. “It’s not in either’s best interest to admit it.” It’s also telling that Roshan, two more sources said, recently began contacting a new round of potential intermediaries — people who know people with money — without Fish and supposedly while crossing the Ts on his main round of financing. Roshan replied that, as the founder of a fledgling magazine seeking money, this is what he’s supposed to do. Also drifting off is Ignition Media’s Elinore Carmody, the former publisher of George who, along with Larry Burstein (now New York magazine’s publisher), filled in as de facto publishers for the first two issues, landing blue- chip advertisers like Prada, Gap and Calvin Klein. She’s gone — at least for now. “No, we don’t have a publisher, and it is in limbo at this point in time,” admitted Radar’s West Coast ad rep, Bill Harper, of Harper & Associates. Carmody declined comment, while Roshan pointed out that he holds the publisher title on the masthead and that Carmody is a consultant. “And we’ve gotten over 50 pages already for the third issue,” he said (without saying when a third issue might appear). “We’re still very much selling ads.” But Harper and Radar’s Midwest rep, Michael Sanders, said it’s still very much in limbo. “Nothing is alive, and nothing is dead,” Harper said. The bulk of the editorial staff, meanwhile, remains on a furlough that began just after Memorial Day. Not needing the space, Radar recently abandoned its main office on 11th Street and moved into smaller digs in the West Village. Several employees have taken jobs at the likes of Miramax and GQ, but, as Roshan points out, none of the senior editors have accepted full-time offers elsewhere. “They all remain excited and committed to this idea,” Roshan said. “It gives me my impetus to continue knowing they still believe in this.” — Greg Lindsay
6 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 Roberto Cavalli Motif Power MILAN — Prints and patterns swept through the spring collections here, as designers fell under the spell of arresting mixes of pastels or brights. Florals and geometric motifs were favorites, turning up on looks ranging from abbreviated surfer shorts to racy evening dresses.
Versace Pucci Etro Antonio Berardi WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA 7
8 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 Sensual and Sexy At Marni, Consuelo Castiglioni experimented with draped shapes, while Alessandro Dell’Acqua created simple, sensual looks for Borbonese and the Byblos designers were inspired by “Sex and the City.” Marni: In this season of girlish delights, Consuelo Marni Byblos Castiglioni missed the perfect opportunity to shine. Instead of doing what she does best — pretty, feminine milan clothes with a bohemian bent — she decided to tinker with proportions, sending out a collection that, while cut in those quintessentially cute Marni prints, got lost in the folds and flaps of her experimental architecture. In a style that Rei Kawakubo has mastered, skirts were draped to provide extra lumps and bumps, while coats came with oversized pocket pouches that poked out from within the lining. The sleeves of the cropped jackets bulged at the elbow. There were hanks, hunks, bunches. A few pieces, however, left you longing for more of their ilk — muted knits, which were worn with dappled prints, and a clever printed silk jacket coated in clear plastic and perfect for strolling in a spring rain. Castiglioni has always gone in her own direction, sticking with softer dressing at times when the rest of Milan embraced hard glamour. Now that so many have moved into her territory, it’s a shame she wasn’t there to greet them. Borbonese: It seems to be a happy marriage between Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Claude Arpels, whose investment group took control of both Dell’Acqua’s brand and Borbonese, which he also designs. These days, as evidenced by his signature collection, Dell’Acqua favors sensuality and quality over trashiness, and that same message came through in Borbonese, an accessories house eager to build an apparel business. He used a backdrop of simple yet sexy pieces to set off great accessories. A fleece-lined nylon parka over shorts, for instance, was teamed with an oversized clutch embossed with rhinestones, while a striped cotton shirt tucked inside a miniskirt was finished off with a roomy ostrich tote. For evening, Dell’Acqua sent out a series of black jersey pieces, including slip dresses and tank tops over skinny trousers, and in a more festive mood, sequined tank tops paired with frisky mini skirts. And neon brights took over in accessories in the form of an orange tote and high- heeled crocodile sandals. Byblos: The Byblos design trio — Stefano Citron, Federico Piaggi and Greg Meyler — loves three things: Sarah Jessica Parker, “Sex and the City” and New York. What they find especially inspiring, according to their press notes, is the “New York City doll style” that fuses soft shapes and fabrics with the city’s hard-edged attitude. That vision boiled down to three key looks, repeated in different colors and fabrics — flowy pleated-front silk tops and dresses in orchid prints with rigid Empire waistbands; structured vests and jackets with fur collars worn over bikini bottoms or skirts, and chiffon tops overlayed with chain mail and worn with padded ▲ Borbonese skirts or cropped skinny pants. Carrie, Miranda, Samantha and Charlotte, take note. Featured Attractions Designers ignited the Milan spring runways with vibrant colors, wild prints and labor-intensive embellishments — and the accessories were right in sync, adding to the sensory overload. Footwear was a glitzy parade of bejeweled, gravity-defying stilettos and sandals. But low-heeled shoes and flats were important, too — ballerinas, beaded flip-flops, Sabrina pumps and interactive sneakers aglow with unexpected bursts of gold and silver. Sergio Rossi, for example, worked with pointed and round toes in a variety of heel heights. The more feminine shapes acquired a tough edge through insets of graphic metal hardware, while, for high drama, he showed strappy sandals made with Plexiglas strips and colorful rhinestones. Rossi also introduced a geometric handbag featuring a round metal ring on its strap. Clockwise from left: Tod’s Candy bags; At Tod’s, it was Sixties-inspired Riviera glamour. The mood was best represented by the Candy bag, Cesare Paciotti’s pumps; a necklace, belt shaped like a bon-bon with tiny bows on either side, and served up in delicious colors of everything from and shoes at Prada; Bruno Magli’s sandal. python to satin. Another winner: the Sabrina shoe, a ballet slipper dotted with the company’s signature rubber pebbles. Meanwhile, Hogan showed its sporty side. A new lightweight sneaker with a perforated H on the side
WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 9 Milan Buyers Delighted Sophistication Rules When Marco Franchini, a former Gucci executive, joined Bally in April 2002 as ceo, his mission was to boost growth by luring a new fashion-con- Continued from page 2 nine. There were references scious clientele while keeping the Gucci Jil Sander those who have known the to both the Fifties and the firm’s loyal customer base. And this family for so long. To make the Twenties. I saw the Antonio spring collection should help achieve day even more special, Angela Marras pieces in the show- that goal. Design director Melissa showed the best collection she room and there was a strong Maish, who replaced Scott Fellows last has ever presented.” Fifties element that didn’t December, dipped into the archives necessarily come through in and served up a back-to-the-roots col- Judy Collinson, executive vice the show. My only concern as lection, injected with just the right president, Barneys New a retailer this season was the dose of trends. York: “From a retail stand- trend of the shorts replacing “It’s a very favorable moment for point, it’s a very positive sea- the miniskirt, which is great, Bally,” said Franchini. “We feel that son — upbeat, full of color but I’m not sure how well it we’re on the right track, and the fact and a desire to make women will be received in the that fall sales are already up 35 per- look beautiful. It’s been full stores.” cent proves us right.” Other priorities of clothes that you want to in his master plan include lower price save up for — capri pants, Majed Al-Sabah, owner, Villa points, better quality and fit, new store Fifties full skirts, beaded Moda, Kuwait: “It’s all about concepts and on-time deliveries. necklines, very short pants, an explosion of colors, the bandeau tops, chiffon, prints, best accessories, as in bags ruffles and lots of dresses. and shoes, and the Fifties No black anywhere. It’s as if skirt. Star collections includ- designers wanted us to have ed Prada and Gucci, and I’m a lovely spring — their minds so relieved with the great were on pretty dresses and evening selections at Dolce & clothes to pack for a roman- Gabbana, Fendi, Roberto tic vacation.” Cavalli and Pucci. Barbara Atkin, fashion direc- Anne Pitcher, buying director tor, Holt Renfrew: “I’m really Prada for women’s apparel, Harvey happy with what I’ve seen in Nichols: “It’s been a great sea- Milan. I found it colorful, up- son. Spring is looking so pret- Bally's lifting, positive and happy, ty, fresh, feminine and light. six-pocket with collections filled with It’s just so happy, and it feels tote, colors and prints. Miuccia good to be happy again. I just trenchcoat Prada is the true artist. She’s loved Prada. It was hugely absolutely unpredictable. And commercial but with a real and Tom Ford is the true mar- point of view. Gucci was sandals. keter. He knows exactly what strong, we loved the prints at the Gucci customer wants and Marni and Dolce & Gabbana, he delivered with a strong col- chaotic as they were.” lection. Versace had beauti- ful, sexy clothes and Armani Jeffrey Kalinsky, owner, offered what our customer Jeffrey, New York and Atlanta: needs to have.” “I loved the Jil Sander show. I think it really set a tone. It Joan Burstein, owner, Browns, Versace summed up the season. It was London: “Prints, that’s what feminine and pretty, yet it was it’s all about. It started in so sophisticated, chic and London. That’s the strongest modern. It was refreshing. message coming through. I Gucci was very strong. The liked Prada very much. I Pucci show was a delight to liked that image. The colors all the senses. Marni was so are beautiful — like the sophisticated and so chic, and greens. That was a noncolor the most exciting new design- for years and now it is coming ers out there are DSquared.” in all shades.” Rosi Biffi, owner of six stores Kohei Yanagisawa, executive including Biffi and Banner in managing director, Hankyu: “I Milan: “Marni was fantastic, I liked D&G and Prada. I’m loved all of it, it was extremely also very interested in elegant, contemporary, so cre- DSquared, which could be ative, but with a precise style. popular in Japan. Goodbye to I also loved Pucci, which was black. There were so many very contemporary. This was a colors. There were fewer fun, joyful season, and there miniskirts and more pants, was a strong effort from every- which do well in the Japanese one. There was a focus to try market.” to do one’s best. This is the As for the accessories, there’s some- season of dresses and skirts, thing for everyone. To avoid that annoy- Anna Garner, fashion director, which is a good direction be- ing search for keys or a cell phone at Henri Bendel: “Overall, the cause everyone’s got enough the bottom of a handbag, Bally’s come mood is very up, very soft, pants, so this opens up whole up with a six-pocket tote in mustard very romantic and very femi- new opportunities.” yellow canvas trimmed in brown leather, while, for girly moments, there are cute white leather handbags show- PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA ▲ Bold legwear at was lit up with silver and gold leather strips, inserted in suede or cotton. ered with appliquéd roses. Shoes range Dolce & Gabbana. ▲ Cesare Paciotti tapped into the folkloric by adorning his sexy stiletto sandals with colorful embroidery, from hand-molded, vegetable-dyed René Caovilla’s beading and tiny mirrors. There were lacquered wooden mules, too, decorated with fuchsia or lime green mink leather flip-flops to high tech cotton sandals and bag. strips. René Caovilla, a master of sexy red-carpet numbers, gussied up his sandals with big silk roses, straps sneakers with ergonomic rubber soles intertwined with wreaths of flowers and medallions lavished with turquoise and coral. and high-heeled cocktail numbers Under a new design team headed by Alexander Zschokke, the venerable Bruno Magli accessories company adorned with leather flower medallions. has launched a full-fledged handbag collection, best represented by the Ring bag in calf, python or crocodile The clothes are primarily sophisti- with leather strips encircling it. Magli also has introduced a limited-edition shoe collection of four colorful cated basics that are not likely to be pumps designed by artist Davide Pizzigoni. Fratelli Rossetti did ladylike shoes, too, with both high and low relegated to the back of the closet as heels. Mules and sandals were covered with flowers, while flat slip-ons featured white, gold and silver strips the fashion tides swing. Among the adorned with burnished metal coins. best: perforated leather trenches that Hosiery, belts of all sorts and cascades of costume jewelry also were important this season. Stefano can unbutton to transform into short Gabbana and Domenico Dolce added to their Dolce & Gabbana print fest with panty hose exclusively printed jackets; printed chiffon blouses peek- in subtle patterns, while Mariella Burani had hers match the floral silks she used for her clothes. Meanwhile, ing out of zip-front leather jackets worn waist treatments ranged from tough chic to fairy-tale pretty. Miuccia Prada treated her snakeskin belts to with shorts, and black halter tops over match her clothes for Prada, while Rosella Tarabini used silver-buckled, raw-edged leather belts to set off her black pants. girly looks at Anna Molinari and Karl Lagerfeld showed wide belts at Fendi.
10 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 Linda Evangelista, ready for Versace An emotional moment for Fitting in at Jil Sander Roberto Cavalli backstage Ferré DSquared's Wild Ones DSquared, behind the bleachers image THE bank The Armani touch MILAN COLLECTIONS Missoni backstage Watching and waiting at Moschino Tai and Rosita Tycoon-in- Missoni training, walk PPR's into a François standing Henri Pinault ovation
WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 11 Emporio Armani DSquared The Missoni workforce takes a runway bow in honor of the company’s 50th. ▲ Laughs by Lagerfeld The Pucci lineup Gucci Mariah takes the lead backstage after Versace, as Donatella and Beyoncé follow A Gucci face Roberto Cavalli Pucci PHOTOS BY DAVE YODER
12 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 Fancy Free Fashion Scoops ROOM SERVICE: In yet another example that the runway isn’t indispensible, Berlin’s conceptual Bless label this week is taking its spring collection directly to editors in their Paris hotel rooms — the ones that stay at Costes K hotel anyway. Guests there will be able to use items such as cashmere sweaters and oversized towels during their stay. Furniture and other knickknacks also have been In Milan, you can have your espresso a dozen different ways design team, supervised by Francisco designed for the rooms and will be available for — and the same is true of fashion. From contemporary so- Rosas, showed narrow and elongated wholesale prices in the temporary Bless milan phisticates to trampy vamps to tailored perfection, Italian silhouettes with tight waists and showroom off the lobby. houses offered enough variety for spring to give you a kick tailored pencil skirts in shades of without the caffeine. brown; tweed flared skirts and CHEAP AND NASTY: A year after publishing Now that Antonio Berardi has a new secondary line ballerina corsets in pale rose, and a couture-priced reprint of Yves Saint called 2die4, he seems less motivated to rein in the wacky revisited the safari jacket with Laurent’s cheeky 1967 comic strip, Nasty factor for his main collection. His show was an overkill of oversized pockets. Of course, every Lulu, a “ready-to-wear” version is slated for color, prints, accessories and embellishments. There were lady who lunches also needs a drop- launch. Paris publisher Sand & Tchou this yoked skirts in floral shower plastic, mirrored and dead gorgeous evening gown, and Genny’s November will release a $25 version of the embroidered vests over shredded and tiered skirts, sequin- floor-length, strapless pleated chiffon dress in book, which was reprinted last year in a luxury laden handkerchief skirts under bustier tops, bunches of graded tones from quartz to tourmaline would make quite limited-edition run of 350, selling for $400. multicolored pom-poms dangling off tops and bottoms. an entrance. The character, known as Vilaine Lulu in Sound a tad excessive? Well, why stop there. Berardi didn’t, Agnona creative director Daniela Cattaneo knows her French, was inspired by a Dior employee who gussying up everything with plastic bangles up to the elbow, customer and stayed true to her lifestyle with a delightful dressed himself up as a fat ugly girl for Mardi ultrabright patent sandals and spring collection. Tea in the Gras. Saint Laurent wrote the cartoon to amuse crash helmets with rear mirrors. Antonio Exte Cividini Iceberg garden? How about basket- himself and his friends. They aim to please — weave capris with a belted linen Berardi everyone, it seems. So the design jacket in salmon pink. Lunch TEAM SPIRIT: Tomas Maier and the quirky team at Exte hopped from one uptown? Try a teal cashmere Project Alabama have joined forces on theme to another for spring, twinset with a chocolate silk limited-edition, hand-embroidered swimsuits touching on such disparate trends skirt. Cattaneo seems to become for women and men. They will be launched at as Mod, disco flash, rapper looks more focused and graceful each a cocktail party tonight during Paris fashion and pretty cocktail numbers. season, and she has transformed week. Maier, creative director of Bottega There were skimpy black leather Agnona from a knitwear brand to Veneta, said he designed the suits and pieces decorated with macro full-fledged ready-to-wear Project Alabama did the embroidery. “There polkadots in red, yellow and collection. are only 50 men’s suits and 100 women’s white; sequined HotPants and Apart from the performance- bikinis,” he noted. low-crotch denim rapper pants art antics — men running around Collaborations are increasingly in vogue. paired with printed silk tops, and the stage in overalls and pig Elsewhere, Paris designer Jerome Dreyfuss has fitted white blouses worn over snouts, a violinist and a pas de designed four outfits for Wrangler. Geared to swingy skirts in wallpaper stripes. deux between a man and a “contemporary cowboys,” his denim looks are Take your pick. mannequin’s torso — Holly on view at his showroom here. Sport meets sexpot meets Genny Agnona Samsonite Krüeger sent out a sweet, spunky cartoon kitsch was the perplexing Black Label spring collection. There were STARS AND STRAPS: “I’m still not used to combination that Paolo Gerani charming pastel striped seeing my work on display. I can feel quite out served up at Iceberg. There were miniskirts, off-the-shoulder, of place at events like these,” said Mary sequined Mickey Mouse faces cropped jackets nipped at the McCartney at the opening of an exhibition in splashed on slinky halter tops or waist and elegant wrap dress London of her photographs for the new Marks low-slung belts — certainly not coats that were ruched in back. & Spencer MW lingerie line. Dressed in a gray what Walt originally had in mind Think Lucille Ball meets Gwen suit designed by her younger sister, Stella, — paired with tiny silk jogging Stefani. This is her third season, McCartney showed off the photos, which shorts with neon racer stripes. and the American designer feature celebrities including Elizabeth Jagger, Iceberg plays to a woman who successfully reined in her artsy Theodora Richards and actress Patsy Palmer, at likes to keep her sleaze factor in (read: bizarre) tendencies to Vinopolis, a gallery in southeast London. line with her sexual appetite and strike the right balance between McCartney shot the color photos for in-store what better way to satisfy both feminine and kooky. displays and advertising. The new line, than with a purple-and-green, Gigi Vezzola’s contract with launched in nearly all M&S stores nationwide leopard-print chiffon halter dress? Brioni Samsonite Black Label ends with last week, features feminine designs in pastel It seems that Pebbles Flintstone this season, and by the looks of shades aimed at a target market of 25- to 35- grew up to be Pamela Anderson. the focused and innovative year-olds. Prices for panties start at $8.35 Knits, knits, knits — not! Piero collection he showed, he wanted while bras start at $20. and Miriam Cividini stayed away to leave a lasting imprint. from their house’s signature Trenchcoats, which fold neatly ALL TOGETHER NOW: Grit Seymour, the former sweater looks for the most part, into bags, gelled nicely with designer of the Boss Hugo Boss women’s and the result was pure ease with Samonsite’s utilitarian edge. collection, is piecing things together. Literally. graphic accents. Low-slung Vezzola, who is mum on his next She and her husband, industrial designer pencil skirts in cotton eyelet, design gig, also spun some eye Jerszy Seymour, will introduce their new slinky silk shirts, safari jackets candy with tie-dye shirtdresses collection “tape” in the Palais de Tokyo in and layered silk shifts were Nicola splattered with big polkadots, but Paris through Oct. 15. It’s a no-sew collection, perfect for the cerebral type. But Holly Del he burned off the sugar with featuring T-shirts and bikinis made of pieces of the pair did sneak in Capucci Krüeger Verme skinny skirts done in a charming cotton and Lycra spandex or microfiber jersey multicolored striped knit tops, Prince of Wales pattern. stuck together by polyurethane tape. which peeked out subtly from sleeveless belted jackets. In his second season at Capucci, Bernhard Wilhelm The “result of a subverted experiment,” Meanwhile, it seems that Nicola Del Verme’s tenure as respected the house’s signature constructed looks but tape, to quote its creators, “is a collection of creative director of Vestimenta has helped the young also experimented with more casual fare, like lime yellow clothes held together by a super tape ready to designer become more commercial. While his tailoring has drawstring jackets and cropped pants. Wilhelm attempted do battle for good and evil to create clothes for always been strong, for spring it was deft with skinny to update the company’s signature boxy looks, adding the postindustrial superhero, funky jackets and high-waisted tuxedo pants. Del Verme is all boxy sleeves to a classic polo shirt, but, at times, the Frankenstein and sexy pink pantheress in all about urban oomph, and he clings to black and beiges, results just looked fussy. The short Mod dresses were of us.” And the tape is permanent, stretchy PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA tossing in the occasional blush pink. However, he justly definitely lighter fare. and washable. tempered his angst and slickness with finely layered chiffon Who says that leather has to be intimidating? Not The collection of some 60 pieces (the halter-tops and gently pleated asymmetrical skirts. Guiliana Teso, who thinks that simple lines and elegant collection keeps growing, Grit said) has already Luisa Beccaria has quite a following in Tinseltown, with colors are the right mixture for a sophisticated woman. No been picked up by TAD in Rome and Quartier Uma Thurman and Charlize Theron among her fans. And flash and over-the-top colors for Teso, who instead offered a 206 Departmentstore in Berlin. she kept them in mind with this collection. Backstage, she subdued palette of turquoise, melon and beige. Pretty pink The official opening on Thursday will said Hollywood served as inspiration, but she also wanted suits, delicate beaded tops and suede pants made for an feature the installation, “scum city” (edition to weave in wearable modern touches. So out came the understated yet polished spring collection. Gallery Kreo) by Jerszy Seymour, the feminine Marilyn Monroe halter-back dresses and the Finally, Brioni is named for a set of islands off the underground DJ-turned-designer whose design young, fresh black-and-cream polkadot silk minis paired Croatian coast that, at its height during the Twenties and work has been shown at the Design Museum in with striped cotton tops. Like a movie sequel, the collection Thirties, served as a playground for Europe’s elite. Gentry, London, the Vitra Museum and Centre had elements of Beccaria’s whimsy, but it ultimately relied aristocracy and privileged lifestyles were the inspirations Pompidou and is in the permanent collection too strongly on past references, including floral dresses and for designer Fabio Piras. While he showed beautiful silk of the Fondation Nationale d’Art Contemporain proper trenchcoats. Meanwhile, the designer is expanding navy polkadot pants with a bordeaux dotted duster, great in France. Karl Lagerfeld and Azzadine Alaïa her offerings, with more daywear, a new line of handbags jackets and elegant wrap blazers, however, he lost his also have taken home his limited-edition and swimsuits that suggested Esther Williams’ maillots. footing with layered drop-waisted chiffon dresses. Brioni is pieces for the Gallery Kreo in Paris. Prada-owned Genny strolled back to the Fifties à la all about tailoring, and those frumpy dresses were the Wallis Simpson and Cecil Beaton portraits. The company’s antithesis of it.
WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2003 13 Chanel Starts Revamp Hat Trick Continued from page one materials are ubiquitous, but never ostentatious. “Everything has been done to enhance the products, not overpower them,” she said during an exclusive preview of the store, which was expanded by some 3,400 square feet and completely refurbished over the past year by interior designer Peter Marino. “We have huge collections and we really need to be able to show what we have.” The Cambon store is the first of three “megastores” slated for special design treatment. The next, a four-story unit in the Ginza district in Tokyo, is slated to bow in December 2004, with a major overhaul of the Manhattan flagship on 57th Street following in 2005. New features include an area dedicated to Chanel knitwear and innerwear — the only one in the world — plus a sumptuous VIP area in the basement that’s roughly the size of a one-bedroom apartment. “We wanted Cambon to be very special,” Montenay said, “and we want Chanel to sur- prise. We have customers who come in two or three times a week and they want to see new things.” That shouldn’t be a problem. The store is so large that visitors even have a choice of three entrances — each with a signature white marble threshold. But the idea is for shoppers to navigate through a series of intimate “salons,” each with a different product focus and distinct decorative touches. Even the carpets — all beige and made of the high- est quality wools and silks in the world — have subtly different weaves in each room. The idea, Montenay said, was to avoid monotony and uniformity, while maintaining an overall color scheme and mood. Texture is practically a religion at the Rue Cambon store, where Marino took pains to avoid any plain or flat surfaces. Where walls are painted black, they received a spe- cial treatment to make them resemble rock. On close inspection, gleaming black or bur- gundy enamel panels glint with embedded flecks of silver or gold. Some walls evoke miniature piano keys. Others, luminescent as real pearls, are composed of woven One of the ready-to-wear salons. fiberoptic threads — and then pressed behind glass. Some of the materials echo Chanel’s famous tweeds, from braided leather stools and nubby Accessories are showcased in several areas in the store. gold-flecked sofas to coffee tables depicting matte gold metalwork. There are high tech features interspersed throughout, too. Giant, backlit images from Chanel advertising campaigns, shot by designer Karl Lagerfeld, peek out from many alcoves, while flat- screen TVs broadcast seasonal fashion shows. Marino said his starting point for the boutique was Gabrielle Chanel’s famous apartment, which is located several floors above. “We went through the Chanel apartment and what I did was keep the entire palette of white, black, ivory and gold with a touch of dark eggplant,” he explained. “Then I tried to do everything in a modern way. We’re trying to evoke the feeling of Chanel — elegant, chic and timeless.” Accessories are carried in sev- eral rooms — and walls of sun- glasses appear several times — but the overall merchandising scheme is relatively sparse. “We don’t want to overwhelm the customers,” Montenay said. “We want them to feel free to roam around the store A screen broadcasts Chanel and discover things.” fashion shows regularly. Apart from the knitwear room, ready-to-wear is housed in the back of the store in space previously occu- pied by Chanel offices and stock rooms on adjacent Rue Duphot. In total, rtw by Lagerfeld gets about 2,700 square feet of space. Alight at the top of a brief flight of marble steps at the right time and visitors can watch the Chanel runway show on a floor-to-ceiling screen in a darkened room. At other times, the screen disappears, displaying Chanel sport looks. The final rtw room, in the furthest recess of the store, is devoted to eveningwear. Here, mirrored panels are metic- ulously wrapped in antique gold and silver ribbon — one mile’s worth. Chanel began overhauling its global network of 191 boutiques and corners four years ago, starting with a remote location in a commercial center in Japan and tweaking, refining and individualizing the concept as it went along. The entire program should be completed by the end of next year. But Montenay stressed that it’s an ongoing work to perfect and individualize bou- tiques. “In most of the stores, we have a specific atmosphere. A store in Austria is not the same as in Spain,” she said. “They are from the same family, but they are not iden- tical. Each has its own personality.” PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE AND OLIVIER SAILLANT The Cambon location has a rich history, since the legendary designer opened her first boutique at No. 31 back in 1921. Today, the building also houses the couture salon, offices and Lagerfeld’s design studios. Closely held Chanel, owned by the Wertheimer family, never provides financial information and Montenay declined to give sales projections for the large store. However, she could not hide the fact that rtw has been selling briskly at Rue Cambon. Some wall-mounted pegs, meant to showcase outfits from Lagerfeld’s collection, dis- played handbags because the store has already sold 85 percent of its fall-winter inven- tory throughout Europe, she said. “We are now waiting for the cruise collection, which should arrive at the end of October,” she said. She declined to pinpoint sell-through figures for other markets, but noted Chanel sales in the U.S. are up about 37 percent for the season. As reported, Bergdorf Goodman sold $3.1 million at a fall trunk show for Chanel last May, breaking records for the store The view from the entrance toward the ready-to-wear level. and for New York.
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