64 Colour Directions SS 2023 - Humanist Beauty

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64 Colour Directions SS 2023 - Humanist Beauty
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     JUNE 2021

 Colour Directions SS 2023
                                     64    Colour Now SS 2022
       Sleep & Fury                       Awkward & Wasteland
Enhanced Geographic Focus                 Focus on food & drink
64 Colour Directions SS 2023 - Humanist Beauty
128 COLOUR NOW / FOCUS SS 2022

                                 Wedgwood the Restaurant

                                 Hunting & gathering
                                 Morphing from quirky
                                                           F
                                                                  oraging lies at the centre         And it’s not just social media that has
                                                                  of an untidy Venn diagram          become a forum for foragers; books
                                 self-sufficiency to              of different macro drivers         on the subject are a nicely profitable
                                 environmentally           currently at play in the food industry;
                                                           a year of closed restaurants, an
                                                                                                     little corner of publishing. Recent
                                                                                                     titles include The Forager’s Calendar
                                 friendly aspirational     increased focus on sustainable            by John Wright, Wild Mushrooms by
                                 eating, foraged           practices, the search for new yet
                                                           local and authentic ingredients, fear
                                                                                                     Kristen and Trent Blizzard, Where
                                                                                                     the Wild Things Grow by David
                                 ingredients are           of food shortages, increased time         Hamilton, among others. “There is
                                 attracting both chefs     spent with nature. All these influences
                                                           have collided to drive interest in
                                                                                                     lots of literature available these days,
                                                                                                     making foraging less scary than it
                                 and consumers             foraging’s direction; in 2021 there       has been in the past, as now you can
                                 seeking to add            was an 89 per cent increase in social
                                                           media coverage on the subject.*1
                                                                                                     cross reference until your heart’s
                                                                                                     content,” says Wross Lawrence,
                                 authenticity to their     Much of this impetus is consumer          author of Urban Forager (Hoxton
                                 tables. Report by         driven: “There are a lot of social
                                                           media groups that promote foraging
                                                                                                     Mini Press).

                                 Tamsin Kingswell.         in both the countryside and urban         But foraging is more than just a
                                                           areas. This gives people that are new     hobby; high end dining is also on
                                                           to foraging a sense of community.         board, a reflection of the ubiquity and
                                                           Foraging has also had a lot of press      limited range of farmed ingredients
                                                           during lockdown as it is a valid          to entice jaded palettes. In sharp
                                                           excuse to go out, identify and pick       contrast, the lure and rarity of
                                                           wild foods during daily exercise,”        foraged ingredients adds a pleasing
                                                           says Paul Wedgwood, forager and           gloss of luxury as well as a polished
                                                           Chef Patron of Wedgwood the               environmental halo effect. No wonder
                                                           Restaurant in Edinburgh.                  then that the Michelin Guide recently
64 Colour Directions SS 2023 - Humanist Beauty
introduced a green star, rewarding       infusion and freezing. “Nowadays,                     first experiences in nature with
chefs who ‘forage in hedgerows and       the origin of food is of increasing                   me have grown up to found
woodlands,’ among other qualities.       importance, people want to know                       environmental organisations, and
“Wild food has always been popular       where their food comes from, this is                  others lead eco-tourism expeditions
with chefs but I have noticed that       a kind of responsible consumption,”                   around the world.”
it has increased greatly. I believe      he adds.
this is due to the fact that wild food                                                         With restaurants closed for much of
is unique, beautiful, delicious and      For Tsutsunen, there’s an undeniable                  last year, foraging courses became an
nutritious. It also offers the chefs     clean eating aspect to foraging that                  unexpected and much appreciated
flavour profiles that just aren’t        capitalises on people’s anxiety about                 revenue stream. Wedgwood, who has
grown in agriculture, and the look       GMO and plants stripped of vitamins                   run foraging sessions since 2016, was
of the plants can be surprising to the   and minerals: “I believe that people                  flooded with requests. “This year will
customer too,” explains Lawrence.        are becoming more interested in                       be my busiest year yet for bespoke
                                         nature. The food that can be found                    foraging experiences. Over lockdown
This seasonality and originality is      there and the health benefits are                     I had hundreds of enquiries and once
also key to foraging’s huge popularity   contributing factors,” he says.                       restrictions lift my diary is nearly
in Finland. Wild food chef Jyrki                                                               full for the year. It is really great to
Tsutsunen explains that in Finland,      And then of course there is the                       see, I am delighted that people are
freedom to roam gives everyone           environmental agenda. ‘Wildman’                       learning about and reconnecting
the right to forage berries and          Steve Brill, who has been hosting                     with nature,” he says. Wedgwood
mushrooms as well as some wild           foraging tours of New York’s                          notes that people are keen to learn
plants. “The flavours that can be        Central Park and environmental                        about how to cook with wild food as
found in the forest are unique and       campaigning says: “You’re eating                      an investment as they can apply the
at the same time, the plants have        local, renewable foods without the                    knowledge to their everyday lives.
a distinctive texture,” he explains,     cost of transport, and many of the                    “I often get approached by people
adding that the challenge in Finland     best species are invasive. People                     while I am out foraging, they’re
is that the wild plants can only be      who forage become more interested                     curious and interested in what I
foraged for a relatively short period.   in learning about the environment                     am harvesting, I would always give

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This has led to a parallel growth        and protecting our non-renewable                      them a bit of an overview and let
in fermentation, pickling, drying,       resources. Kids who had their                         them try it if they can,” he says.

Jyrki Tsutsunen | Photo Kimmo Brandt                           Wedgwood the Restaurant

Wedgwood the Restaurant                                        Jyrki Tsutsunen | Photo Kimmo Brandt
64 Colour Directions SS 2023 - Humanist Beauty
Humanist Beauty                           Wross Lawrence | Photo Marco Kessler       Wedgwood the Restaurant

                                 However, as foraging grows in             Foraged ingredients are even               As Lawrence explains: “For me it is
                                 popularity there are concerns: “If        creeping into beauty products. In a        the connection it gives you to nature,
                                 foraging becomes the next biggest         report on trends to watch in 2021,         being able to witness up close the
130 COLOUR NOW / FOCUS SS 2022

                                 craze this will have a detrimental        Wunderman Thompson*2 notes that            changing of the seasons and what
                                 impact on the environment as it will      foraged ingredients could well be the      that brings, the spark of the hunter
                                 deplete the plants and shorten their      next big thing in beauty, citing brands    gatherer that lays dormant in us
                                 cycles,” says Wedgwood. Lawrence          including Wild Beauty, Furtuna             all being ignited, the unbelievable
                                 agrees: “Damaging an area in any          Skin and Alpyn Beauty. Wildling            nutritional benefits of eating wild
                                 way can have an enormous effect           Co-founder Jill Munson tries to use        food and knowing exactly where the
                                 on climates, habitats and animals,        foraged ingredients in the brand’s         thing that you are putting inside your
                                 changing the symbiotic relationship       beauty products whenever possible.         body has come from.” Foraging’s
                                 that has taken them years to develop.     “Plants that grow in their natural         migration to the mainstream may just
                                 Foragers should only be taking as         habitat and in rhythm with nature          be a momentary pause, reflecting the
                                 much as they need and leaving the         are stronger, more vibrant and potent      extraordinary circumstances of last
                                 area as they found it.”                   in their constituents. As the clean        year. But some habits will stick, and
                                                                           beauty movement grows, many are            foraging might just be one of them.
                                 Moving from micro to macro, foraging      looking deeper into the ingredients
                                 is also exerting influence outside        they are putting on their skin. It’s not
                                 its direct sphere. In Finland, trips      just about being ‘clean’ but where the     *1 Waitrose & Partners Food & Drink
                                                                                                                      Report 2021
                                 to the forest are becoming more           ingredients come from, how they are
                                 immersive experiences. Tsutsunen’s        grown,” she explains.                      *2 The Future 100 Report by Wunderman
                                                                                                                      Thompson Intelligence
                                 ‘Bones, wood and spoons’ event set
                                 out to question the traditional food      Jennifer Norman, Founder, Humanist
                                 experience in a restaurant. There         Beauty, agrees: “Foraged ingredients,
                                 were no tables and the food wasn’t        such as wild flowers, berries and
                                 served on plates. “We might cover         herbs are considered very respectful
                                 one sense and at the same time            of nature. They are grown
                                 strengthen another. The guests were       indigenously without pesticides or         humanistbeauty.com
                                 asked to leave their mobile phones        soil treatment, and they are harvested     jyrkitsutsunen.com
                                 at the reception; the events are very     carefully when the timing and season       waitrose.com
                                 meditative. I’m personally interested     is right for sustainable regrowth.         wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk
                                 in how our other senses impact the        Because there are limited locations        wildling.com
                                 culinary experience,” says Tsutsunen.     from which ingredients can be              wildmanstevebrill.com
                                 The success of ‘Bones’ has inspired       foraged, yields tend to be precious,       @wrosstheforager
                                 him to collaborate with artists and       serving the needs of smaller artisanal     wundermanthompson.com
                                 musicians from different industries,      brands more ideally. While desire for
                                 aiming to create a unique ambience.       wild-crafted ingredients is growing,
                                 “People eat with all their senses. If I   continued respect for the land
                                 can satisfy people’s senses, hearing,     must be upheld to prevent habitat
                                 sight and taste, at the same time, I      exploitation and depletion.”
                                 don’t think that they can necessarily
                                 break down what was good; what            Certainly foraging attracts an almost
                                 they saw, heard or tasted.”               religious fervour from its advocates.
64 Colour Directions SS 2023 - Humanist Beauty
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                                 Photo David Bokuchava
64 Colour Directions SS 2023 - Humanist Beauty 64 Colour Directions SS 2023 - Humanist Beauty 64 Colour Directions SS 2023 - Humanist Beauty 64 Colour Directions SS 2023 - Humanist Beauty 64 Colour Directions SS 2023 - Humanist Beauty
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