900 years young MAGAZINE FOR EXPLORERS AND LOVERS OF THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE - toubiz
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MAGAZINE FOR EXPLORERS
AND LOVERS OF THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE
ISBN 978-3-9819717-4-3
900 years young
Nominal price €3.50
EDITION 2020
2
Dear Readers
The year 2020 marks a proud milestone for Freiburg that
gives us pause to take stock of the past, consider our present
and look ahead to our future. Tradition and deep historical
ties may be rooted in the city’s spirit, but Freiburg is
“900 years young” at heart!
—
Visible traces of history meld with a vibrant life in the here and now: Even
though the clocks in the sunny southwest may have always run at a slightly
different pace, time has by no means stood still here, which is evident in
Freiburg wherever you look. The most beautiful spire in Christendom col-
lides with the avant-garde architecture of a new university library, the
tranquil activity on Münsterplatz (Cathedral Square) collides with the bus-
tling atmosphere on Platz der Alten Synagoge (Old Synagogue Square) and
a charming medieval and “Little Venice” flair collides with Freiburg’s lead-
ing international role as a green city. As the warmest holiday spot in the
tripoint area, where the borders of Germany, France and Switzerland con-
verge, Freiburg combines an unbeatable climate with the best of all worlds
and has leapt to the top of the most popular cities in Germany. As befits
the anniversary year, this issue reveals just how well opposites go together
here, where an appreciation of tradition pairs with a spirit of innovation,
local pride with a cosmopolitan mindset and verve with an easygoing na-
ture. Discover both the old and the new, a bustling city center and sleepy
neighborhoods, a lively cultural scene and a way of life that you won’t find
anywhere else: 900 years young!
Happy reading! With warm regards from
The FREIBURGER team
Freiburg Wirtschaft Touristik und Messe GmbH & Co. KG
FWTM / Baschi Bender
Freiburg – comfortably down-to-earth, pleasantly laid-back and culturally cosmopolitan in
every way. Perhaps this is precisely why the city is equally beloved among visitors and
locals as an extremely livable place with lots to experience. This is as true now as it has
been in the past and especially this year, as Freiburg celebrates its 900th anniversary!
3 1
Contents
You may have spotted the bright red cross on the cover of our magazine:
Perhaps it’s there to reflect the city’s coat of arms? Or maybe it’s an X
to mark the spot? Is it there to catch the eye or make a statement?
Or maybe it’s all of these things? We think that it’s the ideal symbol for
21st-century Freiburg because it can mean so many different things at
once: history and fresh starts, the familiar and the unknown, local hospi-
tality and scathing defiance. There are many sides to Freiburg, from tiny
alleyways to soaring towers. Join us on our tour of discovery!
34
FWTM / Schwerer
The sound of the city: anything but ordinary.
Cultural Life
38
Lothar Jung
22
34 Play it again, buddy
FWTM / Antal
Music bars as cultural heritage
38 Jazz in Freiburg
Interview with Michael Musiol from Jazzhaus
On skis in the winter and on wheels 40 Read on, Freiburg
in the summer – the surrounding Plenty of material for some good stories
countryside entices with its culture,
cuisine and fun. 42 A day on Freiburg’s balcony
Neighborhood profile of Herdern
FWTM / Schoenen
28
An Amble
Through Freiburg
Escaping the
5 I see something you don’t see Daily Grind
FWTM / Spiegelhalter · FWTM
(Hi)stories from the underground
42
10 900 years young 22 Out and about among the vines
Far more than just a weekend of festivities An outing around Tuniberg
14 Bargain hunters 28 Cityscape, landscape, snowscape, escape
Exploring Freiburg’s flea markets and Through the Black Forest on skis
second-hand stores Herdern – a district of many faces
16
Still chiming, loud and clear
“Hosanna” – Freiburg’s ringing marvel
across the ages
2 3
I see
01
– (HI)STORIES FROM THE UNDERGROUND –
something
you don’t see
An Amble A stroll through Freiburg’s city center reveals interesting
Through
remnants of bygone eras in many places. Actually appreci-
ating them as such and listening to stories about the city’s
history transforms an amble through the alleyways into
a multilayered trip through time. Two historical remains
Freiburg
typic al of Freiburg and the findings of archeological re-
search lead us back to the beginnings of the city’s develop-
ment – and right on down into the underworld.
By: Ute Battig
Hotel & Restaurant zum Roten Bären GmbH
5
AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG
Shortly after it was founded in the 12th century,
Freiburg underwent sweeping phases of renovation. 900 years young
The city was, in a sense, one large construction site.
Over the centuries, many well-
After analyzing archeological sources, experts regard
known women and men have come
it as fact that, in those days, large sections of the city
center were raised up to three meters by piling up
to the university city in the Breis
gravel. This served to increase the slope and thereby
gau region and left their marks.
the range of the raw water system at the time – giving We took a look at their stories.
rise to Freiburg’s Bächle, or the little streams that flow
through the city – ensuring the supply of the core city
with its growing suburbs.
In the course of this, what had formerly been a build-
ing’s ground floor back then became a basement, while
the existing basement became a subbasement. The
original entrance and the spaces people lived in essen- The founder
tially moved down one floor, which meant that there Archduke Albrecht VI of Austria founds
were two floors below ground. Nowadays, they pro- the University of Freiburg in 1457.
vide valuable information about the development of One of his objectives for doing so
the city’s buildings and how old they are. A trip back is to encourage people to move to
in time to the Middle Ages is something you can expe- Freiburg, a highly indebted city at the
rience quite vividly in the subbasement of the city ar- Researchers assume that Freiburg’s Bächle time in the territory of Further Austria.
chive on Grünwälderstrasse, where visitors can still see (canals) have been around since before 1120
the windows and doors of the former structure, which and that they were laid out systematically,
are now about 2.50 meters below street level. Another
subbasement that is both accessible and carefully re-
presumably in connection with the expansion
stored can be found in the Hotel Zum Roten Bären 1 of the city walls. The first written mention of
Oberlinden, which is considered to be Germany’s old- the Bächle is in a document by the Dominican
est inn. Bread soup and stables have long since become order from the year 1246.
things of the past here, leaving behind a tasteful and The explosionist
dignified atmosphere. The hotel now attracts guests During alchemical experiments in
with its modern flair and a touch of extravagance. Both 1359, Franciscan monk Berthold
of the subbasements mentioned in this article have un- A landmark’s changing function Schwarz grinds together saltpeter,
fortunately not yet been made accessible to the public From providing raw water for everyday use and wa- s ulfur and charcoal, inventing gunpow-
at set times. However, visitations are possible by sched- ter for fighting fires to surface drainage and, yes, even der in the process, as the legend goes.
uling an appointment in advance and for hotel guests. disposing of street waste, the Bächle played a criti- It is uncertain if the story is true, but
In addition, the Uniseum – or the museum of the Uni- cal function for a long time. Like the Gewerbebach a statue on top of the fountain on
Right: FWTM / Escher · wikimedia commons
versity of Freiburg on Bertoldstrasse 2 – provides ac- stream on Gerberau street, which, to this day, supplies Rathausplatz (Town Hall Square) and
cess to a late medieval basement and the stories and the water from the Dreisam River into the system of a stained-glass window in the Johan-
other lore that relate to it. small canals, the Bächle may not necessarily be one of neskirche (Church of St. John) like to
perpetuate it anyway.
the city’s most obvious attractions at first glance, but
A glimpse into the subbasement of the Hotel they certainly have some of the richest history. Popu-
Zum Roten Bären, where parts of the building lation growth and technological advancements mean-
from the High Middle Ages are still preserved. while made it necessary to find new solutions. For
According to a brief history of the hotel, these safety reasons, the watercourses were relocated in the
remains enable visitors to imagine what it might mid-19th century first from the middle to the edge of
the street and redirected into pipes, in some cases.
Left: Hotel & Restaurant zum Roten Bären GmbH
have looked like here at the time the city was
founded. With the introduction of modern sewer and drainage
systems, the Bächle lost their original importance to The trailblazer
the city’s inhabitants. After all this, the canals continue In Freiburg in 1900, Mathilde Wagner
to play an important role in city planning even now- is Germany’s first female student
adays, both as a traditional landmark and, in light of to gain access to the university,
rising urban temperatures, as a sustainable way of im- where she receives her doctorate
proving the microclimate. » in medicine. In 2014, the U niversity
of Freiburg began awarding the
Mathilde Wagner Prize each year to
o utstanding women scientists in the
field of medicine.
6 7
AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG
Past and
present
Stadtgarten Looking for traces …
Leopoldring “Z’Friburg in der
Stadt suufer ischs
Europaplatz
Siegesdenkmal
Karlsplatz un glatt”
This line from an Alemannic poem
se
The first American erstrasse Her mannstras
We b
Nussmannstrasse
composed by Johann Peter Hebel
Right: FWTM / Escher
In Freiburg in 1507, cartographer Wa s s e r s t r a s s e describes Freiburg as “clean and
Martin Waldseemüller creates a OLD TOWN tidy.” To make sure it stays this way,
trasse
anstrasse
map of the world and includes the
igers
trasse
Engelstrasse
Freiburg relies on a time-honored
P re d
S c h i ff s
recently discovered New World.
sse
profession that still exists today:
stra
Meri
Since he erroneously believes that “Bächle cleaners.” These workers
re n
Cathedral Square
asse
erstr
Rotteckring
Her
Schof
Left: wikimedia commons
Amerigo Vespucci is the man behind Gauchstrasse 3 9
6 Cathedral
head out into the city every day to
-Strasse
the discovery, Waldseemüller names 5
Colombipark keep trash, leaves and other refuse
ssle
the continent “America.” Town Hall
from clogging the waterways.
sgä
-Joseph
Square
hau
The map is widely distributed and
sse
Kauf
tra
e
repeatedly copied. Rathausgasse Schusterstrasse
trass
Kaiser
ikts
tätss
Konv
e rg r i n g
Universi
Bling bling
e 10
trass
2 Salzs Augustiner-
Schlossb
museum
e 1
lds
tr ass 4
Swabian Gate Life in shared accommodations in the 16th century: One of many buildings that are During the Middle Ages, Freiburg
rto 7 Augustinerplatz
Be
äl ders
tras
se
interesting from the perspective of architectural history is the late Gothic “Haus zum was long a gem-cutting hub. Be-
Grünw
Nie Walfisch” (the Whale House) 3 . This is where Erasmus of Rotterdam lived after flee- ginning in the 15th century, the pre-
me
nss
tras
se era
u ing from Basel. The scribe and namesake of today’s Erasmus study-abroad program cious stones were cut and polished
Old rb
Ge
Theatre
Synagogue
Square str
ass
e
Martin‘s Gate 8 did not remain here for very long, however. Due to disputes over rent and disagree- on large waterwheels, powered by
en
Löw
University ments with housemates, he left the magnificent building after two years and moved water from the Gewerbekanal 8 .
KG I–IV
The visionary women thinkers sse
into a private abode at Schiffstrasse 7. Today, the bright red building belongs to the
tra
dts
bol savings bank Sparkasse, which means that it is partially accessible to the public.
Like Hannah Arendt, who studies UB Hum
philosophy in 1926 with Edmund
Husserl, many brilliant and self-con- Hol
zma
rkt Münsterplatz
fident women start flocking to Rempartstrass
e
100 m
(Cathedral Square)
Freiburg beginning in 1900. The freiburg.archeology During the Middle Ages, the mar-
ket was located on the “Grosse
university circles turn into one of Even though Freiburg is one of the most ac- concerning the city history of Freiburg.
the hotbeds of the women’s move- Gass,” which is Kaiser-Joseph-
tive regions in the state of Baden-Wurttem- “Written sources offer little insight. Far
ment in Germany. Strasse today. Around the Cathe-
berg when it comes to medieval archeology more answers await discovery below-
dral, where nowadays you will find
and has been performing high-caliber sci- ground. Archeological findings provide a
the lively hustle and bustle of the
History up close entific research here for some 200 years, fragmented account of earlier periods. By
farmer’s market 9 the whole
there has never been a comprehensive ex- piecing together many different clues, we
week long, was the site of the
1
Hotel “Zum Roten Bären”, Oberlinden 30 hibition on where those findings currently end up with a complex picture of the past,”
www.roter-baeren.de town cemetery into the 16th century.
stand. Over 300 excavations have been car- states the exhibition’s announcement. With
The spot later served as a place
Uniseum FreiburgThe University of Freiburg’s museum ried out in and around the city and approx- this promise in mind, the curators of the
2 where people would convene and
Bertoldstrasse 17 www.uniseum.uni-freiburg.de imately 15 percent of the entire area has exhibition at the Augustinermuseum, Mu-
hold court proceedings.
been archeologically cataloged. seum für Stadtgeschichte (Municipal Histo-
4 Augustinermuseum, Augustinerplatz
As part of an exhibition called freiburg.ar- ry Museum) and Ärchäologisches Museum
5 Museum für Stadtgeschichte im historischen Wentzingerhaus (Museum of
The spy cheology, the Städtische Museen Freiburg Colombischlössle (Colombischlössle Arche-
Municipal History in the historic Wentzingerhaus), Münsterplatz 30
Dušan “Dusko” Popov comes to (Municipal Museums of Freiburg), togeth- ological Museum) get the discovered ob- All-rounder
6 Archäologisches
Museum Colombischlössle (Colombischlössle Archeo
Freiburg in 1935 to study law. In er with the Landesamt für Denkmalpflege jects to talk. The pieces make the lives and Haus “Zur schwarzen Katz” (House
logical Museum), Rotteckring
a ddition to his reputation as a lady- Baden-Württemberg (the State Office for settings of people in earlier periods acces- of the Black Cat) 10 at Konvikt-
www.freiburg.de/museen
killer, it is his role in particular as the Preservation of Historic Monuments sible in a variety of ways for all age groups strasse 39 is the place where the
a double agent during the Second 7 Stadtarchiv
Freiburg (Freiburg City Archive), Gründwälderstrasse 15 and Buildings), is offering an in-depth look and show that history, when cleverly dust- executioner called home. The exe-
World War that made him a real-life www.freiburg.de/stadtarchiv for the first time at archeological research ed off, can be incredibly fun. × cutioner wore many hats and kept
inspiration for Ian Fleming’s More information: F reiburg “water city” map quite busy in his other roles as tor-
fictional agent, James Bond. www.wasserstadtplan-freiburg.akwasser.de turer, privy cleaner, brothel operator
and doctor for ordinary people.
8 9
CIT Y ANNIVERSARY 2020
It’s not every day you get a chance to celebrate, so
when a milestone anniversary comes around, how to
honor it in style becomes the million-dollar question.
Expectations run high; after all, the plans should be
something special, something exciting, something that
everyone will remember and – ideally – something that
hasn’t been done before. The Freiburg city council be-
gan mulling over such considerations well in advance
and came up with the idea to make the city’s milestone
anniversary a celebration of, with and for the peop
le of Freiburg. In other words, the council sought to
mobilize institutions, organizations and associations,
along with the entire community, to take part in shap-
ing the anniversary year by having them contribute
their own ideas and projects. The response to this in-
vitation was overwhelming, exceeding all expectations
and it showed once more how closely the inhabitants of
900
Freiburg identify with their city. By the end of Septem-
ber 2018, some 500 applications had been submitted,
from which the project committee overseeing the city’s
anniversary ultimately selected more than 200 proj-
ects. These projects were then divided into six thematic
years
clusters to create a more streamlined focus. The result-
ing gala program is a reflection of the colorful diver-
sity that you find in Freiburg’s social and cultural life.
It boasts an impressively filled lineup of events of all
young
sizes throughout the city, its districts and quarters.
Creating appeal through a wide range of themes
Freiburg’s many facets, Freiburg remembers, Freiburg
wants to know, Freiburg plays on, Freiburg connects
“We called on the people of and Freiburg thinks about the future: The scope of the
Far more than just a our city to get involved and the
excitement and extent of their
six thematic clusters ensures a multifaceted range of
events for citizens, visitors and guests from all walks of
weekend of festivities response has been thrilling.”
life, of every age and with various interests. Through-
out the year, Freiburg’s anniversary will be celebrated
in various places and locations and the lineup covers
Ulrich von Kirchbach, Deputy Mayor
practically all aspects of communal experience in the
city. Whether it’s Freiburg’s paranormal phenomena
One special anniversary, one big idea, one overwhelming show of or the Sound of the City, Night of the Fools, Sports in
c ommitment: A dazzling array of events to be held across Freiburg and its the Park, Basketball Europe Minifestival, World Press
surroundings this year is a testament to what you can achieve and make Photo Exhibition, or a 365-day quiz, anyone who stays
possible by calling on all citizens to take part in shaping the celebrations in Freiburg during the anniversary year won’t have to
look hard to find lots of excitement and variety. From
pexels.com / Fröken Fokus
to mark the 900th anniversary of their city. Freiburg 2020 – 900 years the very beginning, ensuring conscious engagement
young is the ultimate invitation to one huge, all-year event! with the past, the present and the future has been a key
priority for the organizers, because this trajectory of
By: Ute Battig development also informs the widely appreciated way
of life here and the path from the historic city of the
House of Zähringen to a dynamic site of research and
scholarship. »
10 11
CIT Y ANNIVERSARY 2020
Q&A:
My favorite spots
“Freiburg is going to present
itself as an open, diverse and
innovative city. The city can
celebrate its 900 years
with pride and confidence.”
Martin W.W. Horn, Lord Mayor
Laura Kiefer
Laura Kiefer is serving as an anniversary
ambassador for the special milestone
year. For her day job, she works as a
bus and tram driver for the municipal
transport company Freiburger Verkehrs
12 of 200 AG (VAG), which she enjoys immensely.
event highlights during She loves driving her routes early in the
the anniversary year morning and seeing how the day begins
to dawn and the city comes to life.
January 9– 29 World Press Photo Exhibition
I was born and raised in Freiburg and
Sparkasse
From a light art festival to a ping-pong event, the range of I did my vocational training here as
Committed figures – yesterday and today February 22 Night of the Fools Old Town events is as diverse as the people of the city themselves. well. Both my personal and profes-
The face of a city is always shaped by the people who March 20–29 Cathedral Mapping sional lives are closely tied to the city.
live there and especially by those figures who make a Münsterplatz, south side I am fortunate to be able to work for
mark lasting well beyond their lifetime. Konrad von April 25–26 MTB Enduro Race Freiburg, so to speak and to come into
Zähringen laid the foundation by granting the right to contact with a wide range of people
May–October Penal(ty) area / Sidelined and
hold a market in 1120; successful entrepreneurs such A highlight, month after month and districts, which shows me prac-
serving time in Freiburg
as Bartholomä Herder, Hermann Marinrad Poppen With exhibitions, lectures and concerts featuring a va- tically every day just how diverse the
Photo exhibition at the
and Ludwig “Louis” Ganther created lasting business- riety of different musical styles, the anniversary year city is. Beer gardens, wine festivals,
c orrectional facility
es and jobs; and the contributions of philosophers, art- promises a steady stream of great moments and a new the Zelt-Musik-Festival (Tent Music
June 20 A Midsummer Night’s Table
ists and politicians such as Johann Christian Wentzing- highlight, month after month. The pinnacle will be the Festival), Münsterplatz (Cathedral
A 900-meter table welcomes
er and Edith Stein, Constantin Fehrenbach and Eugen official gala weekend from July 10–14, 2020, which will Square) and the Münsterwurst sau-
one and all to talk and celebrate
Keidel to social interaction and cohesion have not been feature a virtually seamless chain of nonstop events. sage – I like this atmosphere. On the
together.
forgotten. Through their efforts, they have all made the During this five-day flood of events in the city center, weekend, I meet up with friends in
city what it is today. With that in mind, the search for
July 10–14 Main gala weekend
we will witness cultural abundance and civic creativity the Old Town’s “Bermuda Triangle”
August 22–23 FreiRäume (Open Spaces) nightlife district, while after a long
people who have a hand in shaping life in the city today on full display. Bands will be sharing the microphone
Performances, readings, music day, I like to get some fresh air by
in any number of different ways – whether as auxiliary on at least five stages, while the SWR Symphony Or-
and dance in various open spaces taking a walk along the Dreisam, at
bishops or university directors, as singers, tram drivers, chestra, the Philharmonic Orchestra and the Freiburg
throughout the city Waldsee, or at Schlossberg. In honor
or Bächle cleaners – was set in motion for the anniver- Baroque Orchestra are scheduled to perform on Mün-
of Freiburg’s anniversary, I hope as
sary. These people will be promoting Freiburg’s mile- September 12 Hosanna – the sonic experience sterplatz (Cathedral Square). The 14th of July, on
of 2020 many people as possible come togeth-
stone as anniversary ambassadors and using their own the other hand, will be dedicated to the cross-border
er in the city and celebrate as one.
standing and contacts to draw attention to Freiburg October 10 SoundCity friendship with la grande nation. To mark France’s na-
Right: Juli Richter
and to spread the word about the jubilee year beyond One ticket, one night of live music tional holiday, the Rotteckring festival mile will trans-
the city’s borders. and DJs in 20 locations form into a boulevard typical of the country, where art, Auditorium Minimum
November 5–7 Freilicht (Painting on Air) culture and culinary delights of our western neigh- öwenstrasse 7
L
A city transforms in the light bor will be the focus. In the end, there’s really only one
Left: City of Freiburg / Fionn Grosse
December 21 900 years young – closing event thing left to say: come visit Freiburg in 2020 – there’s
Hausbrauerei Feierling
with the Pan.Optikum Action something for everyone! ×
G erberau 46
Theater www.feierling.de
All projects, events and information relating to the
city’s milestone anniversary are available online at: Gaststätte Waldsee
www.visit.freiburg.de/en/ Waldseestrasse 84
city-anniversary www.waldsee-freiburg.de
12 13
AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG
Happenstance and haggling Searching for something
You enjoy drifting along and getting inspired s pecific
by what you see. You can’t really say beforehand
what you need, but surely there’s some wiggle Be it the ’79 bootleg version of this obscure funk
room to come down on the price, right? band from Lapland, this one designer armchair
(in red!) at a price mere mortals can afford, or
something else, you know exactly what you want!
Frollein flea market You’ll find professionals at these stores who can
The flea market by girls and women for all those help you find what you’re looking for.
who love vintage clothes. It is organized by the
B adische Zeitung newspaper and takes place sev-
eral times a year at various locations.
www.instagram.com/frolleinflohmarkt
Flight 13 Records
A record store as if straight out of a film, featuring
a huge selection, a cozy corner for listening to music
and occasionally a live concert. The store will rustle
Habsburgerstrasse
up anything not in stock. Stühlingerstrasse 15,
flea market www.flight13.com
Flea market as street fair or street fair with a flea
market? Either way, the stands that go up in late
June in the Herdern district make up the biggest
Mono Tonträger
flea market. To that end, one of Freiburg’s main
Freiburg’s oldest record store, which enjoys a lovely
traffic arteries and several side streets are closed
location and a café right next door where you can sit
off, becoming the site for music stages, food stands
outside. It offers a wide selection, from heavy metal
and plenty of hoopla.
and alternative to jazz. Gartenstrasse 11,
www.habsburgerstrasse.de
www.mono-tontraeger.de
Bährle flea market
Kunzenhof20
Rummage to your heart’s content in a relaxed
A little farther afield, but worth a trip. The store
atmosphere and beautiful setting.
s pecializes in vintage and second-hand furnishings
Usually every third Saturday in the month, you will
from well-known designers such as Eames, Panton,
find children haggling with fathers over a good
and Jacobsen. Engesserstrasse 3, www.kunzenhof20.de
Lego set or old ladies bargaining with old men over
an heirloom tea service at the Alter Wiehrebahnhof
(Old Wiehre Train Station). The flea market is held
from March/April to October/November, depending Antik-Lager Freiburg
on sun and temperature. You will find both antique and modern furnishings
http://wiehre.norma.uberspace.de in the former machine shop on the “Grethergelände”
Exploring Freiburg’s flea markets factory grounds in the Sedan district. The place has
and second-hand stores its own workshop. Adlerstrasse 12,
Vauban fall flea market www.antiklager-freiburg.de
It’s true, Freiburg doesn’t have London’s Hyde Park. And the This is the spring or fall flea market on Alfred-
Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen in Paris isn’t exactly around the Döblin-Platz in the southern part of Freiburg, held
S’Einlädele
Bargain
corner. Instead, a number of charming flea markets capture the between the former barracks in the Vauban d istrict.
essence of Freiburg: close and convenient, approachable, homey The event is an informal gathering beneath large An attractive, non-profit second-hand store that
and the opposite of overwhelming. There is plenty of good rum- plane trees. www.quartiersarbeit-vauban.de sells rarities, antiques, jewelry, household goods,
hunters
maging fun for families, connoisseurs and those who just want to clothes, shoes, toys, postcards, CDs, pictures,
have a look. Most flea markets take place outdoors – plenty of sun- and much more.
shine guaranteed. Stühlinger family flea market Guntramstrasse 58, www.seinlaedele.de
on Kirchplatz
Freiburg’s flea markets were born primarily out of citizens’ and
unsplash.com / Rabie Madaci
The square around Herz-Jesu-Kirche (Sacred Heart
neighborhood initiatives, which is reflected in their names, such as Church) serves as the heart and venue for several
Manuela Wolber
the flea market on Kirchplatz in Stühlinger, the Bährle flea market events in the Stühlinger district. One of them is the Second Hand
in Wiehre or the Habsburger flea market in Herdern. There is a family flea market, which takes place in the spring Linens and clothing from approximately 1880 to 1960,
variety of theme-based and small flea markets as well. and fall on the large lawn. Imagine a f riendly, open- such as handwoven linen tablecloths, tea and hand
air version of eBay. towels, blouses, top hats and home accessories.
www.familienzentrum-klara.de Klarastrasse 31, www.antikesfreiburg.de
14 15
AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG
It’s Friday at 11 a.m. on Münster-
platz. The heavy chiming of bells
mixes with the buzzing din of voices
and noise from the farmers mar-
ket. Hosanna – the much-noted
voice of Freiburg, star among the
Cathedral’s bells and ringing marvel
across the ages – does the honors
and, for a brief while, a sense of
something sacred pervades the
square and perfumes the air with
the faint scent of incense.
To admire the solo artist among the Cathedral’s
19 bells, all it takes is a little workout. But the reward
for climbing the 242 steps that begin directly behind
the steeple entrance at the side of the Cathedral is ab-
solutely worth the effort. Small embrasures pierce the
darkness on the spiral staircase and reveal how far
you have climbed. Shortly before you reach the watch-
man’s room, the glass wall that continues on provides
a glimpse at the never-ending maintenance work on
the wooden framework. Eighty percent of the wood-
en structure is still from the original from the 13th
century. The long, thick beams carved out of silver fir
are a feast for the eyes and bear witness to a kind of
craftsmanship seldom seen in the Middle Ages. Once
you have arrived in the watchman’s room, your gaze
is arrested by the old exposed clockwork, still intact
and shimmering in hues of gold and silver. The exten-
“Hosanna” – Freiburg’s ringing marvel across sive use of wood in warm tones up here creates an al-
the ages most homey atmosphere. Like any good room should,
it invites visitors to enter and immerse themselves in
Still chiming,
the books and descriptions of the Freiburg Cathedral.
Before you get the notion to order some coffee and
cake and indulge a twinge of envy of the watchman’s
workstation, the sound of bells chiming nearby and
loud and clear
the barely discernible swaying of the ground beneath
your feet snaps you back to the present. Swaying? In
an assemblage of wooden struts rising up 21 meters
into the sky? Yes. In fact, it is supposed to sway. That’s
because the entire belfry stands on its own; it isn’t at-
tached to the walls, thereby preventing the vibrations
from the bells from being transmitted to the walls. For
By: Jürgen Uhl some time now, a light installation in the gap between
the woodwork and the masonry has been making it
easy to see that the tower is, indeed, not attached. »
Jürgen Uhl
16 17AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG
From here, it’s a fee of 4 euros for an adult and another
33 steps to reach the belfry. The bells named Maria and
Josef have just struck a quarter hour. They didn’t swing
to do so; rather, they were struck by a hammer to make
them chime. The bells actually don’t swing all the time.
Besides on Sundays, Maria and Josef swing, for exam-
ple, only at 6 a.m., 12 p.m. and 6 p.m. The Christ bell
swings even more infrequently. Measuring more than
two meters in diameter and weighing almost sev-
en metric tons, the biggest and heaviest bronze bell
in the ensemble rings out with a strike note of G only
on high holidays such as Christmas, for ordinations of
priests and for masses held by the archbishop himself.
But since size isn’t everything, as everyone knows,
Hosanna is and remains the principal bell. Despite
being “only” the third-heaviest bell with a weight of
more than three metric tons, Hosanna is certainly the
prettiest of the bunch, thanks to its sugarloaf shape,
its wooden yoke featuring an extraordinarily elab-
orate design and its artistic ornamentation. Hosan-
Right: designconcepts / Jürgen Gocke
na is one of the most prominent and important bells
from the 13th century in Europe. Its unknown cre-
ator ended up casting what would prove to be a faith-
ful ally to the people of Freiburg, especially in times Perched at a height of 43 meters, the watchman’s
of crisis, as Hosanna would call out not only during room not only offers an incredible view over
prayers, but also raise the alarm when a fire had bro- the rooftops of the Old Town through windows
ken out or during times of war. The fact that Hosan- adorned with geraniums, but it also serves as
na has survived the centuries without sustaining sig- the information center and entry point to the bell
Left: Jürgen Uhl
nificant damage is, apart from divine protection, due t ower and the platform of the west tower.
to the actions of the people of Freiburg themselves.
Many records attest to Freiburg’s deep and abiding
attachment to the bell. Time and again, this fidelity During peak periods, up to 900 visitors a day make the Tower and belfry
saved the bell from being melted down or looted by en- climb to admire and, albeit rather seldomly, hear the Summer opening hours:
emies. Several times, significant sums of ransom were bell. The number 900 not only provides a good transi- Monday–Saturday
paid and more than a few golden chalices were giv- tion at this juncture, but is also a great reason to cele- 9:30 a.m. – 4:45 p.m.
en to the occupying forces in exchange for Hosanna. brate for a whole year. As part of the 900th anniversary Sunday and holidays
The bell even survived both world wars unscathed of the city, 900 musicians will make Münsterplatz re- 1 p.m.–5 p.m.
and, unlike some of its adjacent contemporaries, was sound in honor of Hosanna in September 2020 in a very Adults €4, senior citizens €3,
not melted down during those dark times. As a result, special sonic experience. students €2, children up to the
Hosanna has also become a commemorative bell that The 21-meter wooden Already half a year before this event, the Freiburg age of 12 €1 / Family ticket: €10
chimes every year as a reminder of the bombing of Cathedral is going to be the focus of the festi (2 adults and unlimited number
belfry stands on its own; of children/teenagers–up to the
Freiburg on November 27, 1944. vities, when in March the entire facade will be
it isn’t attached to the illuminated with a projection featuring the city’s 900- age of 18)
walls, thereby prevent- year history and that of the Cathedral’s construction. www.freiburgermuenster.info
ing the vibrations from
Dates and information: Hosanna chimes every Thurs-
the bells from being day, 7:15 p.m., every Friday at
www.visit.freiburg.de/en/city-anniversary ×
transmitted to the walls. 11 a.m. and on November 27
around 8 p.m.
18 19Good finds
Made in Freiburg
Maximum blade sharpness, mini-
mum material abrasion, exclusive
design, easiest handling – made in
Freiburg. The HORL rolling knife
sharpener – a revelation for any-
one who appreciates perfect
kitchen utensils
Chests of drawers, tables fash-
ioned from suitcases, seating and
other nice pieces: The creators of
Stückgut, or “piece goods,” give
worn-out objects a new purpose
and, with a little luck, a new home
shortly thereafter.
Fair-trade coffee from Nicaragua,
produced by the co-op of small
farmers called La Providencia
from Freiburg’s sister city Wiwilí,
as well as the Cosatin/Tierra Nue-
va co-op from the Boaco region.
02 – ESCAPING THE DAILY GRIND –
Little escapes
FREINICA
HORL 1993 Stückgut Möbel-Manufaktur Weltladen Freiburg, G erberau 12
www.horl-1993.de S chwarzwaldstrasse 43 www.freinica.de
www.stueckgut-manufaktur.de
from it all
Right: FWTM / Joos
Left: © Provider
Spreads, sauces and chutneys, vin- The anniversary edition of “Kleiner Streetwear made from 85%
egars, syrups and mustards – Greif” (Little Griffon) with a bitter, rganic cotton featuring casual
o
all made by hand from handpicked hoppy tang from Ganter. For e very prints and high standards when it
ingredients without any artificial bottle of both the anniversary comes to social and environmental
additives using refined recipes and “regular” versions of “Kleiner sustainability. Most pieces p rinted
and packaged with love. Greif” sold, Ganter will be giving right on site by the c reators
10 cents to the celebration of themselves.
Freiburg’s 900th anniversary. From swimming in the lake to skiing on the trails – sounds far-fetched, but it is abso-
hakuna-matata
lutely possible to do in Freiburg in the spring. If this combo is too extreme for you, fear
Feinkost-Manufaktur Blackforest Apparel
S outh side of the farmers market Der Kleine Greif Die Nische
not, because the mountains and valleys around the city offer an expansive panoramic
around the Cathedral Ganter Brewery O berlinden 8 backdrop to a wide range of different activities and experiences.
www.hakuma.net www.ganter.com www.blackforestapparel.de
20 21E S CA P I N G T H E DA I LY G R I N D
Pure
Bottom: FWTM / Antal
leasure
p
Tuniberg following the
changing seasons
Left: Adobe Stock / Dieter Kenz
Taking advantage
of the chance to
celebrate
Wine is a social lubricant, so it
comes as no surprise that an out-
door festival, wine festival, or Zwie-
belkuchen (onion tart) festival is
being held somewhere on Tuniberg
almost every weekend. Things really
reach fever pitch between May and
September, when everything is in
blossom and growing.
Educational walk
Anyone looking to learn a little more
about viticulture and the various
grapes grown on Tuniberg “in pass-
ing,” as it were, can do so on their own
by taking a walk down the educational
wine trail in Opfingen. The path leads
visitors through the vines as they learn
more about the grapes and their culti-
vation while enjoying time outdoors.
Tickling the nerves
instead of the
Out and about
Opfingen, Waltershofen, Munzingen, Tiengen – in
taste buds
these charming, pastoral districts of Freiburg, you will
On the route between Freiburg
and Opfingen, a corn maze 1 and
discover a soothing change of pace where life large-
aerial adventure park 2 are popular
among the vines
ly takes place in and among the vines. The landscape
stops that offer a different kind
is marked by vineyards as well as asparagus and corn
of adrenaline rush.
fields. From the heights of Kapellenberg, you can en-
www.maisfeld-opfingen.de
joy panoramic views of the scenery that extend all the
www.waldseilgarten-freiburg.de
way to the Vosges. It provides the perfect backdrop
An outing around Tuniberg for long walks and bike rides with delightful pit stops
along the way. Excellent establishments form a vir-
tually seamless chain on either side of the path. Be- Swimming
By: Ute Battig yond well-run restaurants and inns, you will discov-
switch-up
er seasonal wine taverns typical of the region known
Quarry lake or fancy wellness
Seasonal wine taverns called Straussen, wineries and vintner co- as Straussenwirtschaften, where you can enjoy a glass
fun – anyone looking to top off a bike
ops – Freiburg’s Tuniberg communities are abundantly blessed by of traditional, homemade wine. Anyone with an inter-
tour with a dip can do so by jumping
est in the cultivation of fruit and viticulture will have
nature and dripping in sunshine. This is reflected in a distinctive many opportunities here to talk with the producers
into the lake Opfinger See 3 or get-
ting a warming bubble massage at
culture of epicurean delights and a soothing laid-back attitude. themselves and learn lots about the climate, soils and
KEIDEL Mineral-Thermalbad. 4
Now that’s the good life! growing practices. »
www.keideltherme.de
22 23E S CA P I N G T H E DA I LY G R I N D
A good way to discover both the
nature and culture on Tuniberg is
on a bicycle. Rental bikes are avail-
able from the bicycle station locat-
In southern Baden, asparagus is up on hearty food supplies for your bike ed at Freiburg central station or via
traditionally served with Kratzete, ride at Hassler’s Hofladen, which is open the citywide rental service frelo.
or finely torn strips of pancake, on Fridays and Saturdays. For those who www.freiburgbikes.de
don’t want to stop, continue on through www.frelo-freiburg.de
although you will find asparagus the town on the Freiburger Landstrasse
served with potatoes and hollan- (Freiburg highway) and follow it to the left
daise or a vinaigrette on the menu between pastures and fields until you reach
the next destination: Munzingen. (Erentrudis Chapel) or turn right towards Christian Wentzinger from Freiburg. This
in most cases, too. the Höhenweg, which leads either to Got- is only mentioned here as an aside. We
Munzingen is famous for its lovely tenheim or Merdingen. We decide to skip decide to sit down at the restaurant Die
17th-century chapel, a superb golf course this undoubtedly rewarding detour and Sonne to make a pit stop and briefly take
and a renowned hotel with a long tradition ride instead across the plain, through the stock of our morale and motivation. At this
located in the center of town. Visitors here communities of Nieder- and Oberrimsin- point, we can either make another detour
Four in one go – a Tour de Tuniberg
will also find any number of inns and win- gen, which belong to Breisach and on via Waltershofen or take the direct route
Tuniberg is heaven on earth for cyclists and, eries, plus a well-known biodynamic De- Right: FWTM / Antal · VAG / Ralf Kilian
around the mountain by turning right at to Opfingen. Some of the arguments in fa-
thanks to its extensive network of trails, of- meter farm. Kapellenberg can be seen here the gravel works towards Merdingen. vor of Waltershofen are the seasonal tavern
fers routes for every level of difficulty. To- rising up lengthwise at the southern tip of Scheunen-Strausse and the Zum Adler inn,
day, it’s going to be a beautiful flat route Tuniberg in an impressive profile and its Merdingen boasts impressive half-tim- one of the oldest buildings in the area. But
that less experienced riders can easily han- terraces promise spectacular views. If you bered buildings and a parish church in the sun, which is already getting low and
dle, while leaving open the option of much aren’t winded or afraid of the uphill climb, the late baroque style. It was built by Jo- our somewhat tired legs convince us to go
more challenging variations for ambitious turn off at this point in front of the park- hann Kaspar Bagnato, one of the most fa- with the alternative, so we take the short-
cyclists. The bike ride begins in Freiburg’s and-ride parking lot from St.-Erentru- mous baroque architects of the 18th cen- cut. After making the steep ascent upon
city center; from there, the route first heads dis-Strasse onto Windhäuslegasse and pass tury in southwestern German lands. The leaving the town, we really get rolling in
towards Haid industrial park and then past modern single-family homes before end- altars and pulpit are the work of sculp- a spirited downhill ride and then take the
Left: FWTM / Antal
the forest on the right to Tiengen. If you al- ing up right among the vines after a steep tor Joseph Anton Feuchtmayer, the ceil- right turn Wippertskirch – clearly marked
ready feel like a little breather after these left turn. Once you have reached the in- ing frescoes and altarpieces were created by a bus stop – in the direction of Opfingen.
first 10 kilometers, take a break on the ter- tersection back on level ground again, you by Franz Joseph Spiegler and the image of »
race of Hotel-Restaurant Tuniberg or stock can turn left to go to the Erentrudiskapelle Mary above the west portal is by Johann
24 25E S CA P I N G T H E DA I LY G R I N D
Not to be confused with “ostriches,”
which share the same name in German,
Straussen are small, seasonal taverns,
Umkirch where proprietors serve goods they have
Queen-Auguste-
Victoria-Park
produced themselves. You can identify
these establishments by looking for a
decorated thatch broom on the side of
10
the road or in front of a door.
11 Waltershofen
Merdingen
6
Mundenhof
animal and nature
a dventure park
St. Nikolaus
N
Observation
tower
Lake Opfinger See
Opfingen 3
12
13
ERG
2 1
7
A5
City center approx. 5 km →
TUNIB
A tour of Baden cuisine in
MOOSWALD
5
Freiburg’s rural districts
Tiengen
The asparagus strongholds of Tiengen, Munzingen, Walters
Niederrimsingen
hofen and Opfingen are well worth a visit with many excellent
8 4
FR-Haid The narrow access road leads past an establishments that serve up a cozy atmosphere and great
equestrian center on the right, followed on local cuisine. The towns were incorporated during the 1970s
Oberrimsingen ← and have been official districts of Freiburg ever since.
the left by the guesthouse Walter, featur-
ing a farm shop and farm café. If you look Hassler’s Hofladen
8
straight ahead, you will see an observa- A lte Rathausstrasse 1, Tiengen
Munzingen tion tower, which offers stunning 360-de- www.hasslers-hofladen.de
9 gree views of the landscape for those who
Restaurant Zum Warteck
9
14 muster the energy to climb it. Anyone driv-
Golfclub S t.-Erentrudis-Strasse 40, Munzingen
en by other human desires – namely hun-
www.restaurant-concini.de
5 ger – should follow the bend in the road
onto Hohlweg until it turns left directly into Scheunen Strausse
10
the center of Opfingen and stop in at the mkircher Strasse 11, Waltershofen
U
restaurant Blume or the Sonnenbrunnen www.scheunenstrausse.de
Mengen
strausse 12 , just a few meters farther. The 11 Gasthaus Zum Adler
inn is inspired by fresh ideas such as Black S onnenbrunnenstrasse 12, Waltershofen
Forest tapas and street food truck, while www.adler-waltershofen.de
the winery, credited as Freiburg’s first or-
Weingut Sonnenbrunnen
12
ganic winery, is a traditionally run estab-
nterdorf 30, Opfingen
U
Off-trail lishment with a cozy dining room and out-
www.weingut-sonnenbrunnen.de
door seating, as well as a classic menu. In
short, both are good and both are worth- Gasthaus Blume
13
Golfclub Tuniberg Full-moon bar Griestal-Strausse
while. Go ahead and indulge; the last nterdorf 2, Opfingen
U
The 18-hole course at the foot of Tuniberg Once a month, the Kalkbödele winery A must for asparagus lovers.
Emil Bezold · Ute Battig
10 kilometers are a straight shot back to www.blume-freiburg.de
is one of the prettiest golf courses in in Merdingen opens the full-moon bar, Tables here, both inside and outside,
southern Baden, which also draws visitors where guests can enjoy local wine in a are in high demand, so it is good to Freiburg and hold no further challenges in 14 Schloss Reinach
with its restaurant “tunigarden.” 5 unique atmosphere. 6 come with time to wait, not to mention store, so there is no need to worry. Cover- otel – Restaurant – Day Spa
H
a healthy appetite. 7 ing this last stretch is a piece of cake, even S t.-Erentrudis-Strasse 12, Munzingen
www.golfclub-tuniberg.de www.kalkboedele.eu on a full stomach. × www.schlossreinach.de
www.griestal-strausse.de
26 27E S CA P I N G T H E DA I LY G R I N D
The Tuscany of Germany – this is how p eople
affectionately refer to the area around
Freiburg. Why? The winters here are mild
and the number of days with sunshine plenti
ful. While the rest of Germany braces itself
against cold and drizzle, the people in Breis-
gau are already sitting in a sidewalk café, sip-
ping a cappuccino and squinting against the
sun. But Freiburg has a frigid side, too. Just a
few kilometers away, you will discover a winter
wonderland in the Black Forest. Our author
ventured there and fastened on a pair of skis.
Cityscape,
Okay, I could go downhill skiing. It’s a
ction-packed Click, click. Just like that, the thin
and lots of fun. But most of the time, you aren’t slats are dangling off the toe of my boots.
the only one to have this bright idea. With a bit of The man who rented me the gear gave me
bad luck, you end up waiting in line for the ski lift some encouragement. He said, “Anyone can
and have to share the slope with countless others. cross-country ski – even you. You don’t need to
landscape,
When that happens, you don’t really get to experi- take any expensive lessons and years of practice
ence much of the nature and scenery around you. like you do with downhill skiing. No, cross-coun-
That’s why it’s time to try something different: try skiing is self-explanatory, like stand-up pad-
cross-country skiing! Up here on Schauinsland, I dleboarding or Nordic walking. But a lot more
don’t need any lifts. I’m my own lift and it operates fun!” Well, okay then. I want to believe the man.
snowscape,
just for me. I fasten on the skis at the start of the trail. Click,
click. Just like that, the thin slats are dangling off
Cross-country skiing = boring? No way! Peo- the toe of my boots. I’ve decided to go with the
ple who say that have obviously never tried it classic version, which is easier than the modern
themselves! The Schauinsland cable car fer- form of skate skiing that took off in the 1970s. I
escape
ries me upward. Destination: the Schauinsland place the slim skis in the equally slim double
cross-country skiing trail. It winds its way up track and take a look around. Nobody here – ex-
Right: Hochschwarzwald Tourismus GmbH
here for 15 kilometers through the winter land- cellent! There’s a winter scene to my left and to
scape. The trail is one of many in the region. I’m my right, just like I wanted. The sunlight catch-
alone, holding the skis in my hand, which I have es the snow crystals on the fir trees and makes
rented, along with the poles and boots. The rental them sparkle as if someone had poured diamonds
costs 50 euros during the week, which is perfect everywhere. Marvelous! Okay, but now it’s time
for trying out a sport that sport researchers claim to get going. I admit, the first few meters I move
By: Dimitri Lehner is the healthiest in the world. Why? Because it forward rather hesitantly. But with each passing
works out the entire body, strengthens the heart meter, my push-off grows stronger, the gliding
and gets the circulation going. If I’m honest, I period becomes longer and before I know it, I’m
Left: Unsplash / Erik Odiin
can’t stand cardio sports, because there’s noth- whizzing along. Sometimes I push off with both
ing fun about them. I think jogging is tedious, poles at the same time, sometimes in an alter-
for example, so I’m very curious to see how I like nating rhythm, while I find myself striding and
cross-country skiing. Cross-country skiing seems gliding through the winter wonderland. »
to me like jogging, but over snow. So will it be
similarly dull, or something altogether different?
28 29E S CA P I N G T H E DA I LY G R I N D
Or something
else after all?
Four alternatives for
w inter-sport enthusiasts.
Ski slope fun
Feldberg is the number-one stop
for skiers and snowboarders. It
is easy to reach by bus or train.
Visitors can rent equipment at
Talstation. There are smaller ski
facilities located around it, such
as Notschrei, Todtnauberg and
Haldenköpfle. In Hinterzarten,
you can even go skiing under
“
floodlights – romantic campfire Nobody here – excellent! There’s a winter scene to my left
setting included. and to my right, just like I wanted.
Sledding
shoulders especially. Even so, I am still
”
One of the best-known sled
enjoying it. Between the tracks for clas-
runs can be found on Schau-
My pulse is racing, my lungs are pump- you can make a big trip. What amazes me sic cross-country skiing, which look like BLACK FOREST – WINTER SPORTS SINCE 1891
insland. That could be due in
ing – but wait! The rental guy told me to is that the focus on turning in an impres- white tracks of a Märklin model train cut-
part to the lift that comfortably
start slowly. I reduce my speed and contin- sive performance that you find in so many ting through the snow, a path has been lev-
brings sledding fans up to the
ue gliding ahead at a more leisurely pace. sports is hardly evident when it comes eled into the ground. This one is for the The Black Forest Ski Museum
southern slope. It is easy to
Enjoy the moment, don’t rush through it. to cross-country skiing. Sure, you don’t skaters. They slide the skis outwards, like
reach, for example by taking The museum housed in the rustic Black Forest building in
Breathe, don’t pant. It’s better this way, be- want to go at an absolute snail’s pace over you would with inline skating and push
the Schauinsland cable car Hinterzarten shines a light on the origins and success of
cause I can see better and take in my sur- the trail, but the point here is much more down and back over the edges of the skis
from Horben. Sled rentals are skiing as a sport in the Black Forest through pieces of art
roundings much more clearly. And the si- about experiencing nature and indulging while pushing off with overlong poles in
available on site. and numerous original exhibits from Olympic icons such as
lence. No noise at all! The snow absorbs the spirit – a little like yoga and meditation. an overlapping movement. The technique
Georg Thoma and Martin Schmitt.
every sound and the only thing I hear is the looks athletic and exhausting. Do you sup-
whoosh of my skis in my ear. It is exactly According to sport science, cross-coun- pose it’s possible that skaters can enjoy the www.schwarzwaelder-skimuseum.de
Snowshoeing what I was looking for: the chance to final- try skiing is the world’s healthiest sport. snow-covered landscape around them as
It is possible to go snowshoe-
ly get away from the city’s hustle and bus- I read up that, according to sport science, much as I am here? It’s hard to imagine
ing practically everywhere, such The final adventure:
tle, turn the volume all the way down and cross-country skiing is healthier than al- with skis and poles swinging every which
as in Hinterzarten. You can go the Schonach–Belchen backpack race
not have to see or hear anyone or anything. most any other kind of exercise out there. way. I come to a halt and let a fast skate
out as part of a guided tour
I whiz ahead. Small descents make my pu- Cross-country skiing strengthens the skier swoosh past. I remember something Each year, the “final adventure in the Black Forest” kicks off in
or on your own. Rentals cost
pils dilate and send my heart rate galloping heart, goes easy on the joints and mobi- the ski rental guy said to me: “Skate skiing February. The cross-country ski race, which is contested over
around 9 euros per day, for ex- a distance of 100 kilometers, is only for true pros (some might
from exhilaration. Then the skis begin to lizes muscles in the arms and upper body is a bit more strenuous at first, but you can
ample from Sport Kiefer. say: for those off their rocker). It’s an experience, at any rate.
slide as if all on their own, but ever faster. through the use of poles. That’s great! Risk pick it up just as fast as the classic version.”
of injury? Low! Because the kind of high- So, next time I want to skate ski, that much www.fernskiwanderweg.de
I tense my thighs to stay on course on speed collisions that can occur on the ski is now clear. Equally clear is that there is
Snowkiting the thin slats. slope don’t happen in cross-country ski- going to be a next time. Cross-country ski-
Feldberg’s plateau and Schau- The skis are just 4 centimeters wide. I’m ing. There is one danger, however: getting a ing is my thing, as I found out today. And
insland are popular spots Adler Ski Stadium
happy that I decided to go with the easier gliding high and overestimating your abili- I’m happy about it, because this realization
© Hochschwarzwald Tourismus GmbH
among snowkiters. The trendy red trail for my first time out and not the ties, like I have just done. just melted my dread of winter clean away. Hinterzarten has four ski jumps, which see action all year
sport featuring the stunt kite I will now no longer say that winter is a long. The most important competition takes place in the
black Halde track or night trail, which also
requires some skill, which means summer, funnily enough, when the world’s top skiers face
wind their way through the area up here My first round has gotten a bit excessive dark, depressing time. No, now my motto is
you need to take a course, for off in preparation for the winter season. Visitors can get
on Schauinsland. Just a hop, skip and a and now I can feel that cross-country ski- wintertime is cross-country skiing time! ×
example here: their own impression as part of a ski jump tour. Spectacular
jump away from Freiburg, the possibilities ing is, indeed, a workout. My energy has
www.kiteschule-skywalker.de views guaranteed!
here seem virtually endless. There is even begun to wane, regardless of the gliding For information about all trails and
a long-distance snowshoeing trail from periods and I can feel the constant use snow conditions in the Black Forest, www.sommerskispringen-hinterzarten.de
Schonach to Belchen. So if you feel like it, of poles to propel myself forward in my visit: www.loipenportal.de/schwarzwald
30 31You can also read
