Across the Atlant - Leg 1: Ft. Lauderdale to Bermuda

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Across the Atlant - Leg 1: Ft. Lauderdale to Bermuda
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     Leg 1: Ft. Lauderdale to Bermuda

      On May 16, a fleet of 18 trawler yachts set out on a record-breaking cruise
      of a lifetime: an Atlantic crossing. The Nordhavn Atlantic Rally — the ulti-
      mate boat owner’s rendezvous cruise — would take these trawler crews on
      the buddy-boating adventure of a lifetime. In the second part of our series
      on this incredible odyssey, rally organizer Jim Leishman of Pacific Asian
      Enterprises in Dana Point, California shares his Leg 1 cruise experiences
      aboard the Nordhavn trawler Atlantic Escort.

       Across the Atlant
       yachtphotography.com

                                                             By   Jim   Leishman

       84 SEA / SEPTEMBER 2004
Across the Atlant - Leg 1: Ft. Lauderdale to Bermuda
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   ic in 18 Trawlers                            Jim Raycroft photos

                                                                      SEA / SEPTEMBER 2004 85
Across the Atlant - Leg 1: Ft. Lauderdale to Bermuda
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     FT. LAUDERDALE • BERMUDA • AZORES • GIBRALTAR

                                                                                                                   1,100 N
                                                                                                                          M
                                                                                           NM                   June 19
                                                                                   1,800                                - June 2
                                                                                                                                6
                                                                                                 ne 1   0
                                                                                          9 - Ju
                                                                                  May 2
                                        NM
                                   900           2
                                             ay 2
                                      y 16- M
                                   Ma

                                                            Jim Raycroft photos

         Thousands of pre-cruise details had been                                                 in me. Along with the excitement that pre-
      dealt with, as our departure date of May 16                                                 cedes a long ocean voyage on a small boat,
      drew near. Arriving in advance of the fleet                                                 the concern and realization that things can
      at the Bahia Mar Hotel in Ft. Lauderdale,                                                   go wrong always serves to temper a buoy-
      I fought the dread that was building with-                                                  ant mood.

                n a single vessel — one that         a 92-foot custom vessel designed by                          visiting the upper floors of the Bahia

      O         I’ve prepared and I am in
                charge of, these pre-departure
      jitters are minimal. But this time the
                                                     Ed Monk and built by McQueen in
                                                     the Pacific Northwest. We had 18 capa-
                                                     ble passage-makers with the range,
                                                                                                                  Mar Hotel and gazing seaward — hop-
                                                                                                                  ing for a break.
                                                                                                                      The wind blew through the mari-
      voyage was different, and the poten-           strength and stability to safely cross                       na and tore at our burgees and flags
      tial for problems was exponentially            the North Atlantic.                                          as we went about the business of final
      greater, with 18 vessels and crews —               This was a fleet of motorized plea-                      provisioning, inspections and prepa-
      every one of which I felt responsible          sureboats embarking on a voyage                              ration of the vessels for departure. It
      for. I found myself unable to sleep and        never before attempted — and one                             was an intense week, with dozens of
      noticed occasional flushes of                  that thousands of supporters and crit-                       seminars covering subjects from med-
      adrenaline while thinking of the               ics alike would be watching carefully.                       ical first aid to diesel mechanics.
      unpleasant possibilities.                          The easterly trade winds had                                 There were dinner parties, cock-
          On the final roster of participants,       been blowing hard for the entire                             tail parties and briefings. Film direc-
      the fleet consisted of one Nordhavn            month of May, creating 6- to 8-foot                          tor Bruce Kessler worked constant-
      40, five Nordhavn 46s, one Nordhavn            seas and an ocean of whitecaps off                           ly, conducting interviews and filming
      47, two Nordhavn 50s, one Northern             the beach at Ft. Lauderdale. It seemed                       the preparations and activities for
      Marine 55, three Nordhavn 57s, one             inevitable that our fleet would have                         his upcoming documentary of the
      Krogen 58, three Nordhavn 62s and              to endure a pounding. I found myself                         voyage.

      86 SEA / SEPTEMBER 2004
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         Despite the hectic schedule, no one
     could help but notice that strong and
     relentless easterly wind.
         Our schedule called for a May 16
     departure of the fleet’s smaller boats

                                               yachtphotography.com
     (Division 1) followed by the larger
     boats (Division 2) the following day.
     We estimated an arrival in Bermuda
     together on the morning of May 22.
         For weeks, I had worried about a
     delay in the Florida departure, because
     accommodations in Bermuda at Royal                               took up a direct route for Bermuda.         any vessel that might be delayed
     Bermuda Yacht Club had been con-                                                                             because of a temporary mechanical
     fined to a narrow window. Numerous                               OFF WE GO                                   problem to be able to speed up and
     fleets of rally and racing sailboats                                Our Sunday morning departure             rejoin the fleet.
     would be arriving at the yacht club                              was one I’ll never forget. Our Division         Even our smallest vessel, Uno Mas,
     in June. A significant delay in our                              1 crews threw off their lines, and the      a Nordhavn 40, can run at 8 knots,
     arrival could find us without accom-                             Division 2 fleet of 11 Nordhavns left       so a one-hour delay could be made
     modations and the need for alternate                             the Bahia Mar the next day.                 up in seven hours of catch-up. The
     berthing.                                                           We began our voyage seaward,             escort vessel would never leave a boat
         We anticipated that nothing else                             where we would rendezvous for heli-         behind — but once a problem vessel
     could compare to Royal Bermuda YC                                copter photos of the rally’s departure.     was under way again, the escort ves-
     for our fleet — and this is where we                             The seas were rough, but they seemed        sel could accompany it back to the
     wanted to be. Fortunately, our weath-                            to have settled down a bit from the         fleet.
     er forecaster — Walt Hack of New                                 previous weeks of constant 25-knot              On our first two days, we enjoyed
     Jersey — confirmed that despite ini-                             trade winds.                                a good push from the Gulf Stream —
     tially rough seas, conditions would                                 On this leg of approximately 1,000
                                                                                                                  BERMUDA-BOUND — Prior to leaving Ft.
     improve as we worked our way north.                              nautical miles, the target speed for our    Lauderdale on Leg 1 of the Nordhavn Atlantic
     He recommended an on-time depar-                                 Division 2 fleet was 7 knots. At this       Rally, the 18 participating crews (top) participated
                                                                                                                  in various briefings on the voyage. Because of all
     ture, but routed us a bit to the north,                          pace, we would arrive in Bermuda on         the preparation that went into this passage-mak-
     to avoid the worst of the easterlies —                           the following Saturday.                     ing adventure, Leg 1 of the Nordhavn Atlantic
                                                                                                                  Rally concluded in Bermuda at Royal Bermuda
     adding about 60 miles to our voyage                                 All of the boats are capable of cruis-   Yacht Club (bottom) without any major problems
     before we turned more to the east and                            ing faster than this, but we wanted         along the way.

                                                                                                                                       SEA / SEPTEMBER 2004 87
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     and we made our way to the north a        light and variable and the sea was        bridle attached to a large “D” ring,
     knot or two faster than our target        almost perfectly flat. We elected to      mounted on their stem slightly above
     speed. If we got ahead of schedule,       launch the Caribe — and we spent a        the waterline. Attached to their “D”
     we could always slow down — but dur-      glorious day providing shuttle service    ring was a nylon line — shackled
     ing the early part of the voyage, we      from boat to boat for any crew who        below and with a shackle on top —
     were happy to get a bit ahead.            wished to pay social visits — and, for    which would receive our tow line.
         The first 48 hours of any voyage      those interested, there was the oppor-        This method would ensure that our
     is a time of adjustment. Almost           tunity to ride a surfboard or planing     tow line could be easily attached by
     everyone moves a little slower and is     tube behind the speeding Caribe.          a crewmember, that chafing gear
     affected to some degree by seasick-       These breathtaking rides were 500         would not be required at the bow roller
     ness, particularly if the sea is rough.   miles off the East Coast of the United    or deck and that the towing load would
         By the second day, we were on a       States — in water that was miles deep.    be low and on the strongest piece of
     direct course for Bermuda. Conditions                                               hardware possible.
     were improving and were forecast to       LENDING A HAND                                With director Bruce Kessler’s cam-
     get even better.                              We received a call from the crew      eras rolling, we began the process of
         By midweek, the wind and seas had     of Four Across, a Nordhavn 50, and        approaching Four Across and throw-
     died down — and we had fully adjust-      learned that they had burst a water       ing them a “monkey fist” knot
     ed to the motion of the waves and our     line and had lost some of their fresh     attached to a small tag line. This, in
     watch schedules. Thanks to Dr. Kevin      water. They were able to fix the leak     itself, took numerous tries.
     Ware’s wife, Kari, our crew was well      — but they soon found out that their          Finally, after receiving the tag line,
     fed and happy.                            water-maker, too, had a leak, and a       the crew pulled the tow line aboard.
                                               new part would be required to return      After a lot of fiddling around, it was
     LAUNCH TIME                               it to operation.                          attached and paid out — and, final-
         On the third day out aboard               Since Atlantic Escort had made        ly, Four Across was taken under tow.
     Atlantic Escort, we elected to launch     provisions to tow and to transfer both    We then passed them a 400-foot length
     the Achilles inflatable dinghy that we    water and fuel, we elected to try the     of garden hose and proceeded to trans-
     stowed on top of the tie rods that dis-   repair during this day’s calm sea con-    fer about 300 gallons of fresh water.
     tribute the load of our emergency tow-    ditions. The procedure involved tak-          I took some great photos of the pro-
     ing bit at the transom.                   ing the receiving vessel under tow        cedure and snapped a few shots of the
         For serious open-ocean towing, we     using our normal towing gear.             younger crewmembers waterskiing
     equipped Atlantic Escort with a large         We were equipped with a 400-foot      past, with the towing and watering pro-
     towing bit, placed well forward of our    length of 1-inch nylon tow line — and     cess in the foreground. After a few
     rudder post (a must to maintain direc-    each fleet vessel carried a single line   hours of running time, our Village
     tional control). The tie rods were
     removable — but while installed, they
     interfered with the use of the cock-
     pit area.
         Our 9-foot Achilles, with a 5 hp
     Honda outboard, is the rig we chose
     to deploy in water that was too rough
     and dangerous to launch our larger
     14-foot Caribe rigid inflatable boat
     from the upper boat deck.
         The launch went off without a hitch
     — and it took a matter of seconds,
     with three guys simply sliding the
     inflatable off the stern. My son and
     crewmember, James Leishman, along
     with first mate Justin Zumwalt,
     motored over to our Division 2 escort
     boat Autumn Wind. There, they
     picked up my other son, Eric
                                                                                                                                      yachtphotography.com

     Leishman, along with emergency
     medical technician Mike Ronquio, for
     a visit aboard Atlantic Escort.
         This proved to be only the first of
     many mid-ocean tender launches.
         By the following day, the wind was

       88 SEA / SEPTEMBER 2004
                                                  BERMUDA
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      Marine water-maker had our tanks
      topped off again.
          We were elated at how well our
      system had worked, but we wondered
      how the procedure would be in
      rougher seas. We discussed and debat-
      ed how we could improve our tech-
      nique and wondered if we’d have to
      do it again under less-than-perfect
      conditions.
          It had been a perfect day — and
      to cap it all off, we dined on fresh dora-
      do (or mahi mahi, if you prefer).                yachtphotography.com
      Caught earlier in the day, the fish was
      expertly filleted by crewmember and
      expert angler Scott Shane, marinat-
      ed in apricot juice, then cooked to
      perfection.
          Despite our constant effort, the
      fishing was not very productive on this                                     If we could not reach each other       HELPING HAND — When one of the participating
                                                                                                                         boats, Four Across, had a leak in its water-maker,
      first leg. Catching just three or four                                  by SSB radio, a satellite phone call       Atlantic Escort took the boat under tow and
      dorado in the 15- to 20-pound range                                     was made five minutes before the           transferred some fresh water to its crew to sus-
      was a disappointment, as we trolled                                     hour. However, most of the time, the       tain them until its water-maker could be
                                                                                                                         repaired.
      almost the entire way.                                                  SSB worked fine.
                                                                                  We would discuss positions, speed      cipline, we kept it up throughout the
      ROLL CALL                                                               and the status of the fleet — and we’d     voyage.
          Twice a day — at 08:00 hours and                                    share any problems and unusual expe-           For most of the trip, each vessel
      at 20:00 hours — we conducted roll                                      riences. Then, at the top of the hour      in my division was captured on our
      call. At 15 minutes before the hour,                                    twice a day, each vessel would be          Furuno NavNet radar ARP system.
      the Division 1 and Division 2 fleets                                    called on VHF radio and would be           From this, I could make a note of each
      would begin a single sideband (SSB)                                     asked for their position, speed, sta-      boat’s speed and course. Even a slight
      radio schedule beginning with a 4 MHz                                   tus and information about any prob-        course change was instantly revealed
      frequency and then a 6 MHz channel.                                     lems that might have occurred.             by the predictor line running off the
                                                                                  They would also report their fuel      front of each target.
                                                                              situation — simply the miles they esti-        Each night after roll call, as dark-
                                                                              mated they would be able to travel         ness settled in, I’d slow Atlantic Escort
                                                                              on their remaining fuel, at the speed      to the rear of the fleet so I could see
                                                                              and fuel burn rate of the past 24 hours.   and count the stern lights ahead.
                                                                              Then we’d know if we had, say, 800             By Friday morning — our fifth day
                                                                              miles remaining to reach our desti-        at sea — the Division 1 boats were
                                                                              nation and a boat reported it could        closing up from the rear, and we were
                                                                              only go 900 to 1,000 miles, we might       within VHF radio range. Our plotter
                                                                              have a problem.                            was showing an arrival at Bermuda’s
                                                                                  Additionally, during these roll        Five Fathom Hole at sunup. By mid-
                                                                              calls, I would give the weather report,    night, the Division 1 boats were in
                                                                              which usually came in each afternoon       visual range, having to slow down
                                                                              from our forecaster. I received this       slightly and not pass us up.
                                                                              report via e-mail, and some of the             In tight formation and with flags
                                                                              other boats in our fleet received it,      flying, our fleet of 18 boats proceed-
                                                                              too (by request) — but for those that      ed from Five Fathom Hole to
                                                                              did not, it would be read aloud on VHF     Hamilton, Bermuda — and by 10 a.m.,
                                                                              radio, and any questions or comments       our fleet was safely docked at Royal
                                                                              that came up would be fielded at that      Bermuda Yacht Club.
     WHAT A TRIP — Once in Hamilton, Bermuda,                                 time.
     crewmembers from the 18 boats had the
     chance to explore the city, even having the
                                                                                  As it turned out, the position         Next month in Sea Magazine, we’ll
     opportunity to do things such as watching a                              reporting within the division was a        follow along as the Atlantic Rally fleet
     parade (left) and taking a carriage ride (right                          bit silly, as we had each other in visu-   embarks on Leg 2, from Bermuda to
     top). En route to Bermuda, some crewmem-
     bers participated in watersports behind an                               al range all the time — but, for dis-      the Azores.
     inflatable boat.

                                                                                                                                               SEA /SEPTEMBER 2004 89
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