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                                               SMOKE SCREENING
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                                                         INSPIRING BEST PRACTICE
                                                           IN MEDICAL AESTHETICS

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                                                   SMOKE SCREENING
                                               MANAGING LASER PLUME

Managing Director and Publisher
Vikas Vij
E: vikas.vij@ideas-exchange.in
T: +91 22 6171 3201

Executive Editor                                                                            NEWS AND ANALYSIS             COVER FEATURE
Shriyal Sethumadhavan                                                              8        10 INDUSTRY NEWS              14 AGED TO PERFECTION
E: shriyal.s@ideas-exchange.in                                                              The latest news from          What treatments are
M: +91 9820841355                                                                           the industry.                 trending for ageing skin?
                                                                                                                          Dermatologists share
Consulting Editor
Kanishka Ramchandani                                                                        08 PROMOTIONAL                popular picks in recent
E: kanishka@wordmonk.in                                                                     FEATURE                       months, commonly used
M: +91 9619544787                                                                           The HIFU revolution in        devices, and their clientele
                                                                                            anti-ageing.                  approach to determine the
Finance Director                                                                                                          ideal treatment.
Sharmila Pandey
E: sharmila.pandey@ideas-exchange.in
M: +91 9987588439                                                                                                         SKIN/DERMATOLOGY
Design                                                                                                                    20 THE ANTI-AGEING
Arun Shirishkar
                                                                                                              10          APPROACH
E: arun.shirishkar@ideas-exchange.in                                                                                      Skin appearance and
T: +91 9867989199                                                                                                         characteristics change with
                                                                                                                          ageing of body. Dr Sudhavani
Advertising                                                                                                               Damarla, elaborates on ageing,
Aakash Chaudhary                                                                                                          people’s perspective around it
E: aakash.chaudhary@ideas-exchange.in
M: +91 9820444705                                                                                                         and treatment options.

Marketing                                                                                                                 24 TIPS TO SKIN HYDRATION!
Khyati Mishra                                                                                                             Gone are the days when
E: khyati.mishra@ideas-exchange.in                                                                                        moisturizers were meant for
M: +91 9769281874                                                                                                         people with dry, flaky skin.
Operations                                                                                                                Moisturizers should be an
Priyanka Parshurami                                                                                                       integral step in skincare
E: priyanka.parshurami@ideas-exchange.in                                                                                  routine. Here's some of our top
M: +91 9833472397                                                                                                    20   moisturizer picks that can be
                                                                                                                          recommended to drench skin
Circulation – Subscription & Database                                                                                     in moisture.
Shahnawaz Ansari
E: ansari.shahnawaz@ideas-exchange.in
T: +91 22 61713232

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4                        Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020
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CONTENTS

                  www.aestheticmed.in                                                                                            IN THIS ISSUE...

                                        29                        35                        47                     47                          57

26 INSIDE OUT                       F E ATU R E                   DEVICES                   BUSINESS                         50 HEAD SPACE
Anti-ageing might be one            35 SMOKE SCREENING            42 IN THE KNOW            47 STRONG START                  We explore how to safeguard
of the latest buzzwords             Dr British Medical Laser      Aesthetic Medicine        Dr Sadaf Hussain and Dr          your own mental wellbeing as
in aesthetic dermatology            Association honorary          explores the market       Simon Zokaie                     you return to your aesthetic
but there is more to it than        secretary Jon Exley on        growth, features select   answer some of the most          practice.
meets the eye.                      managing the risks            devices and delves        pressing questions for
                                    associated with covid-19      into the technological    newly-qualified practitioners.   54 IN FOCUS
29 BODY IS THE                      during aesthetic laser        advancements                                               The virtual consultations may
NEW FACE                            procedures that               coming along.             57 STRATEGY FOR                  make good business sense,but
Dr Jamuna Pai shares more           create plume.                                           SUCCESS                          there’s more to consider.
on trending treatments and                                                                  PR expert Julia Kendrick
modalities, and her book on         39 PATH TO RECOVERY                                     outlines why a PR strategy is    59 NEW LAUNCHES
anti-ageing.                        POST-SURGERY                                            so important when it
                                    Here's listing some                                     comes to making SEO              61 EVENTS CALENDAR
CLINICAL                            nutrients and food that are                             marketing support your
31 RESTORATION                      essential to take care of                               aesthetic business.              62 AM INDIA VIRTUAL EVENT
PROJECT                             post a cosmetic surgery.
Dr Timothy Eldridge shares
                                                                                                                             65 OUT AND ABOUT
the journey of a 57-year-old
woman undergoing facial
aesthetics for the
first time.
                                                                        Welcome to the
                               56                                  September-October 2020
                                                                            issue of
                                                                  Aesthetic Medicine magazine
                                                                                     Dear Reader

                                  Age is just a number, and you are just as old as you feel. If we agree, then why not bring new
                                life to the skin, and give it the appearance that matches the mental age? Well, I may have many
                                  supporters on this one. Convincingly, market numbers reveal so: A steep rise in the demand
                               for anti-ageing treatments over the last five years, owing to which, its device market in India has
                                     grown multi-fold in the last decade and is expected to witness steady growth in future.

                           This edition features much about anti-ageing treatments. For most recommended treatments, turn
                             to page 14; more on page 20 for people’s perspective towards ageing and treatment options; for
                             technological advancements, page 42; and to understand how to navigate patient expectations
                                                 and ensure maximum satisfaction, our story on page 26.

                                      This plus, some global insights on managing risks associated with COVID-19 during
                                     aesthetic laser procedures that create plume (Pg 35). Also, do read the inspiring journey
                                          of a 57-year-old woman undergoing facial aesthetics for the first time (Pg 31).

                                              It would be great to have your feedback on this edition. Do write in to
                                                                    shriyal.s@ideas-exchange.in

                                                                         Wishing you safe times ahead!
                                                                           Shriyal Sethumadhavan
                                                                               Executive Editor

                                                                                                       Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020           5
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E D I TO R I A L B OA R D

                                                                                   www.aestheticmed.in
    O U R E X P E RT S
    CLINICAL EXPERTISE
    The Aesthetic Medicine editorial board
    includes some of the leading names in
    aesthetics. Their clinical expertise and
    diverse range of specialties will help
    ensure the magazine meets the needs
    of its readers.

    Dr Shailesh Vadodaria:
    Consultant Aesthetic and
    Reconstructive Plastic                              CALL FOR ARTICLES
    Surgeon; on the Specialist
    Register of the General
    Medical Council, UK;
    practices from the Clementine Churchill BMI
    Hospital, Harley Street, and Medical Arts for
    Cosmetic Surgery Clinic (MACS) in Watford,
    North London

                    Dr Lakshyajit D Dhami:
                    Cosmetic, Plastic and
                    Laser Surgeon; Consultant
                    Cosmetic and Plastic
                    Surgeon at Nanavati and
                    Hinduja Hospitals; Founder of
    Vasudhan Arjin Cosmetic & Laser
     Surgery Centre, Mumbai; and President of
    Indian Association of Aesthetic Plastic
    Surgeons (IAAPS)

    Dr Amit Luthra:
    Cosmetologist and
    Dermatologist; Heads Ishira
    Skin 'N' Child Clinic, New
    Delhi; Member of European
    Academy of Dermatology
    and Venereology (EADV),Indian Association
    of Dermatologists, Venereologists and
    Leprologists (IADVL), and Cosmetology
    Society of India (CDSI)

                    Dr Neeta Patel:
                    Plastic, Cosmetic and                 Are you interested in
                    Reconstructive Surgeon,
                    Mumbai; and past President of
                    Indian Association of Aesthetic
                                                        becoming a contributor
                    Plastic Surgeons (IAAPS)             to Aesthetic Medicine
    Dr Mukta Sachdev:
    Head of Department and
                                                               magazine?
    Consultant
    Dermatologist, Manipal                                Do you have articles you would like to
    Hospital, Bangalore; Director,
    M S Skin Centre, Bangalore
                                                         write or any thoughts, treatment tips or
                                                        techniques you would like to share? Then
                    Dr Parag Telang:                         we would want to hear from you.
                    Director at Designer Bodyz
                    Centre for Advanced                   Whether it’s writing about running an
                    Cosmetic Surgery, Mumbai;           aesthetics business or sharing your case
                    Consultant Cosmetic and
                    Reconstructive Plastic
                                                       studies and clinical expertise, you can get in
    Surgeon; and Specialist in autologous ear                 touch with us with your ideas.
    reconstruction, Minimal Incision Face-lift
    (MACS-Lift) and ultrasonic liposuction

    Dr Apratim Goel:                                    Email: ameditgroup@gmail.com
    Senior Cosmetic
    Dermatologist and
    Venereologist; CEO and
    Medical Director of Cutis Skin
    Studio, Mumbai/; Fellow of
    Academy of General Education (FAGE); and past
    President of Association of Facial Aestheticians
    and Aesthetic Surgeons of India (AFAASI)           www.aestheticmed.in
6   Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020
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P R O M O T I O N A L F E AT U R E

                                                                                                 www.aestheticmed.in

             The revolutionary
             HIFU in anti-ageing
     Doublo-Gold is a time tested & trusted brand over last nine years across the globe.
    It is largest preferred brand among all HIFU devices, over 700,000 treatments have
    been performed successfully with 4,000 installed systems of Doublo series. Doublo-
    Gold is setting new standards as an advanced HIFU technology with 25 registered
      patents and fastest treatment by Two-way round shoots. Here’s what skin experts
                                  have to say about the device.

    D
                oublo Gold is the latest generation of High        the next 12-14 months.
                Intensity Focused Ultrasound (HIFU) technology        More specifically, the Doublo Gold lifting treatment
                from Hironic, the pioneer of HIFU in Korea. It     has reduced the treatment time for 300 shots from 16
                delivers focused thermal energy through the        minutes to 8 minutes as compared to existing devices.
                skin layers, safely reaching the SMAS to promote   Additional features such as continuous shots and shot
    collagen regeneration.                                         interval adjustment provide a more convenient and
       So far, several lifting methods have been developed         satisfactory treatment.
    such as fillers and thread
    lifting. However, Doublo
    lifting has been receiving
    more attention because it is
    a simple procedure without
    any downtime. Thanks to
    its superior results, clinical
    studies have proved high
    customer satisfaction. In
    India, many clinics are
    much pleased to offer this
    novel cosmetic procedure to
    their patients.
       Doublo Gold uses HIFU
    energy to penetrate under
    3.0~4.5 mm of dermis layer and
    SMAS layer without damaging
    the superficial layer and
    creates a thermocoagulation
    zone (TCZ) smaller than 1 mm.
    TCZ helps to contract the
    sagging skin tissue and lifts
    up the skin. Over one to three
    months, elastin and collagen
    are produced to maintain the
    lifting effect, which last for

8   Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020
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                           WHAT SKIN EXPERTS HAVE TO SAY ABOUT DOUBLO-GOLD:

                          Dr Rickson Pereira, Dermatherapie Clinic, Mumbai, says, “Doublo-Gold focused ultrasound
                          is a promising treatment that offers remarkable results in skin tightening and rejuvenation,
                          non-invasive facelift, jowl reduction, jawline and neck tightening and much more. My
                          patients are extremely satisfied with the transformation it has brought in. Doublo Gold is
                          an advanced version of the previously successful Doublo-S. Like its predecessor, I am sure it
 will revolutionise anti-ageing treatments.”

 Dr Ishad Aggarwal, Wizderm Speciality Skin & Hair Clinic, Kolkata, says, “Doublo Gold has
 become a premium treatment in my clinic, thanks to the high-end technology that offers these
 outstanding results. Being a non-invasive one, it is comfortable for my patients and does not
 demand any major downtime. This novel cosmetic tool effectively rejuvenates the deep layers
 of the skin, delivering innovative HIFU energy to the targeted tissues and creating selective
 thermal coagulative zones in the subcutaneous layer or superficial musculoaponeurotic
 system (SMAS) at 3 mm and 4.5 mm, without the risk of damage to the superficial skin or surrounding tissues. The
 treatment results in significant tightening and lifting of the targeted tissues, as well as improved contours of the
 treated areas.”

                           As Dr Ginni Chhabria, Skinology Center, Indore, shares, “If you are practising anti-aging, the
                           Doublo-S device should be there at your clinic. It is a non-invasive technology, which gives a
                           desirable facelift. Jaw line contour is amazing. There is no downtime. Me and my clients we
                           both are happy.

 Dr Datta S S, Director, La Peau Laser World & Skin Clinic, Thane, Navi Mumbai, says,
 “Doublo Gold HIFU is the best-in-class device for face and body contouring. It is the fastest
 in its category. I have been using this device for the last two years and it gives excellent
 results to satisfy patients. It is not only doctor-friendly but also patient-friendly. It has got
 advantages over other technologies as single sitting treatment with zero downtime as well
 as prolonged treatment effect.”

                        According to Dr Rupali Pavaskar, Transforme Cosmetic Center, Thane, Navi Mumbai, “I was
                        overwhelmed with my own experience after taking Doublo Gold treatment for the first time.
                        It showed prominent improvement and that too without any downtime. A large majority
                        of my patients are satisfied with the aesthetic outcomes and improvements achieved
                        in the signs of skin ageing. I could work on deep skin structures of 4.5 mm of SMAS area,
 simultaneously target deep dermis with 3 mm for effective fibroblast activation and collagen regeneration and
 address other aesthetic indications such as body shaping.”

 Dr MK Shetty, Dr Shetty’s Aesthetics, Bengaluru, says, “I have been using Doublo-S focused
 ultrasound technology for about three years in my practice with assured results without
 any complications. This specific device offers you different cartridges for different level for
 facial lifting and body contouring.”

                                                                                      Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020   9
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     INDUSTRY NEWS                                                                                      www.aestheticmed.in

     Light therapy market expected to exceed US$ 1 billion by 2025
        As per the market research report, the light therapy          expected to observe sharp growth by 2025. Psoriasis, a
     market is expected to exceed US$ 1 billion by 2025 with          chronic skin condition caused by the overactive immune
     red light therapy treatment witnessing a CAGR of over 4.5        system along with red patches, inflammation and flaking,
     per cent. The growing adoption of light therapy in various       has accounted for more than 20 per cent revenue share in
     medical conditions will further accelerate the demand for        2018 and is believed to witness substantial growth in the
     light therapy devices thereby augmenting business growth.        coming years.
     Increasing demand for non-invasive skin treatment such as           Due to the increasing prevalence of dermatological
     blue light therapy for treating skin diseases including acne     diseases coupled with the growing demand for aesthetic
     vulgaris will favour the growth of the light therapy market.     procedures, the Asia Pacific region is estimated to exceed
     However, several side effects of light therapy including         US$ 250 million by 2025. Moreover, sustainable economic
     headache and nausea may hamper future industry growth.           growth and rising healthcare expenditure in countries such
        Light visors segment, which accounted for around US$          as India, China and Japan will further accelerate the regional
     79 million, and the dermatology clinics segment, which           light therapy market growth.
     accounted for about US$ 210 million in 2018, are also

     Market valuation of botulinum toxin expected to cross US$ 8.9 billion
     by 2026
        Increasing adoption of minimally invasive
     surgeries or non-invasive procedures is expected
     to drive the botulinum toxin market to US$ 8.9
     billion by 2026. Botulinum toxin is used in facial
     injectables, which are the most frequently
     performed procedures in western countries. It is
     divided into two segments: Botulinum toxin A and
     botulinum toxin B. The ‘A’ segment, which is widely
     used for treating forehead lines and square jaws,
     is expected to grow at 8.9 per cent from 2020-
     2026. Moreover, a rise in demand for botulinum
     toxin A to treat muscle spasm is likely to drive
     segment growth. Due to the growing demand for
     skin rejuvenation and surgeries among middle-
     aged women, the female segment is projected to
     register a CAGR of around 8.8 per cent through
     2026 as botulinum toxin A is leading in this
     procedure.
        As predicted, the botulinum toxin market in the
     APAC region is set to witness significant growth by
     2026. High growth rate is attributed to the ageing
     population, and a subsequent increase in demand.
     Growing adoption of botulinum toxin products,
     rising social awareness, and accessibility to new
     technologies and products is another reason for
     augmenting market growth.

     Dermalogica PROSKIN Masters 2020
       Dermalogica India is all set to launch PROSKIN Masters         line with the new changed environment. The competition
     2020, one of the biggest skill competitions for professional     provides the perfect platform for the therapists to
     skin therapists. The competition aims to test the knowledge,     showcase their expertise and gain widespread recognition
     skill, and expertise of the professional skin therapists – and   for themselves and their salon, in the industry as well as
     celebrate the transformations they bring into the lives of the   among end consumers.
     customers through their work, every day. Dermalogica trains         The, PROSKIN Masters 2020, will be judged by the best in
     more than 100,000 experts across 120 countries every year.       the industry along with Dermalogica Global Educator Angela
       The competition is open to all Dermalogica certified           Taylor.
     therapists across the country. It will test their theoretical       For more information, visit Dermalogica India’s Facebook
     knowledge as well as the skill in consultation, understanding    page or interested participants can register on: https://
     the consumer’s problems and the actual service delivery in       forms.gle/CACzVQGnsijA4H879

10   Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020
N E W S A N D A N A LY S I S

   www.aestheticmed.in                                                                                       INDUSTRY NEWS

Aesthetic devices market is expected to                                                     NEWS IN BRIEF
reach US$ 6,620 million by 2024
   Global studies indicate that the aesthetic devices market is expected to                 SURGE IN THE GLOBAL
                                                                                            HOMECARE DERMATOLOGY
grow at a CAGR of roughly 5.3 per cent and reach US$ 6,620 million by 2024 as               ENERGY-BASED DEVICES
compared to US$ 4,870 million in 2019. In recent times, with the rise in spending           MARKET
capacity and the proportion of people taking on medical treatment and aesthetic             The homecare dermatology energy-
treatment, aesthetic devices have become more and more popular. The market                  based devices – including laser
                                                                                            equipment that are widely used
is growing fast as the focus has been more on beautification. Although the                  for removing skin pigments, hair,
market scale is still limited at present, the potential is considerable. The                wrinkles, and acne – has observed a
aesthetic devices market is consolidated in nature. Various players are adopting            surge in recent times. Easily available
competitive strategies such as collaborations, acquisitions, and capitalising               on the counter, these devices are
                                                                                            becoming immensely popular among
untapped opportunities in the emerging economies of India and China, to sustain             the masses. As a result, people who
and gain market penetration across the globe.                                               want to undergo minor dermatological
   A report by 360 Research points out to the US as the largest market for                  treatments need not undergo heavy
aesthetic devices with 36.12 per cent of global aesthetic devices procedures                procedures with the use of such
                                                                                            equipment. Constant technological
per year followed by Europe and China with 35 per cent of the global industry,              and research advancements in the field
respectively. Other prominent regions in this industry include the Middle East              of dermatology and cosmetics have
and South America.                                                                          played a significant role in spreading
                                                                                            the reach of the global homecare
                                                                                            dermatology energy-based devices
Global dermatology lasers market to register                                                market. The APAC region is expected
                                                                                            to exhibit a strong CAGR in the coming
a CAGR of over 14 per cent by 2023                                                          years. With emerging economies such
                                                                                            as India and China that are spending to
                                    The growing demand for laser treatment,                 develop their healthcare infrastructure,
                                                                                            the homecare dermatology energy-
                                 including laser skin resurfacing and tightening
                                                                                            based devices market is expected to
                                 among the middle-aged population, is                       witness ample business opportunities.
                                 encouraging more end-users to offer laser
                                 treatment. As a result, the global dermatology             GLOBAL DERMABRASION
                                 laser market is expected to register a growth of           MARKET IS EXPECTED TO
                                                                                            GROW WITH A CAGR OF 4.82
                                 over 14 per cent CAGR by 2023. Laser treatment             PER CENT BY 2025
                                 is a highly costly and expensive treatment as it           Global market reports indicate that due
                                 involves a lot of equipment for its maintenance,           to an increase in demand for advanced
                                 and materials such as cooling gels and numbing             skincare treatment options, rising
                                                                                            number of skin disease patients and
                                 creams. All this together adds up to the treatment         growing emphasis on dermatology,
                                 cost.                                                      the global dermabrasion market is
   Due to the growing awareness about cosmetic procedures among the individuals             expected to grow at a CAGR of 4.82
who are becoming more consciousness about beauty and their appearance and aware             per cent by 2025. It is frequently used
                                                                                            for facial procedures that are carried
of cosmetic procedures, such procedures are gaining importance among individuals            out with the use of wire brush or a
who want to restore or enhance their natural beauty. Moreover, the availability of          diamond wheel with stony edges to
cosmetologists with advanced knowledge about new laser techniques in cosmetic               eliminate and level the upper layer of
dermatology treatments has increased the market growth.                                     the skin. The treated area heals and
                                                                                            allows new skin to grow in its place.
                                                                                            Rising number of skin disease patients,
                                                                                            increasing importance of dermatology,
Global aesthetics combination therapy mar-                                                  and the increasing demand for
                                                                                            advanced skincare treatment are
ket projected to grow at 8.1 per cent CAGR                                                  the major factors driving market for
                                                                                            dermabrasion. Growing interest for
   According to Persistence Market Research report, the global aesthetics                   healthy skin treatment choices and the
combination therapy market, valued at US$ 1.97 billion in 2016, is estimated to reach       developing prominence on dermatology
US$ 3.69 billion, at a growth rate of 8.1 per cent CAGR from 2016-2024. The market is       are also gradually supplementing the
segregated into three types: Therapy, applications and end-use. Under therapy, the          market growth.
BTx-A/dermal filler the most pursued therapy is projected to grow at 10.9 per cent          BODY MODIFICATION, AND
CAGR by 2024 whereas BTx-A/laser – second largest segment in terms of revenues              HOW!
– is projected to grow at 6.6 per cent CAGR by 2024. As per the global trends and           Sandro from Finsterwalde, Germany, has
reports, aesthetics combination therapy is expected to witness strong growth in             spent Rs 5.8 lakh on body modification
                                                                                            over the last 13 years. This 39-year-
hair removal and tattoo removal procedures. The third segment of end-use, is further        old man has undergone 17 procedures
divided into three parts: Hospitals, ambulatory surgical centres, and dermatology           of body modifications, the recent one
clinics. Of these, dermatology clinics are anticipated to grow at a CAGR of 10.7 per        being removing both the ears and
cent by 2024.                                                                               keeping them in a jar. Reportedly, in the
                                                                                            past, he has also had implantations in his
   Marketwise North America and Europe continue to be the largest markets for               forehead, forearms, and the back of his
aesthetics combination therapy market, wherein North America is expected to hold            hand. Sandro has reportedly mentioned
41.3 per cent revenue share by 2024 as compared to 2016 and remain the largest              that these body transformations over
market by revenue holder. Similarly, in Europe, France is projected to witness the          the past years have strengthened his
                                                                                            self-confidence.
second highest CAGR by 2024 with Italy leading the region.

                                                                                        Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020      11
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     INDUSTRY NEWS                                                                                     www.aestheticmed.in

     NEWS IN BRIEF                                  Global photorejuvenation devices market to
                                                    reach US$ 2,521.1 million by 2025
                                                       As per a market research report,
                                                    the Global Photorejuvenation Devices
                                                    Market, which was valued at US$ 1,622.3
                                                    million in 2018 is expected to reach US$
                                                    2,521.1 million at a CAGR of 6.50 per cent
                                                    by 2025. Technological advancements
     QR 8 THERAPY FOR HAIR                        in the field of rejuvenation technology
     REGROWTH
     As per the global report and a study           can provide various opportunities for
     published in the American Journal, the         further market growth.
     QR 678 therapy has proven to be more
     effective than PRP as a hair loss treatment       Photorejuvenation is a skin treatment
     with almost 100 per cent reduction in hair     that uses lasers, strong pulsed light,
     fall. This new therapy curbs hair-fall and     or photodynamic therapy to treat
     increases the thickness, the number and
     density of existing hair follicles, offering   skin conditions and remove effects of
     greater hair coverage, especially to the       photo-aging such as wrinkles, spots, and
     ones with alopecia. While PRP is supposed
                                                    textures. The use of photorejuvenation therapy is extensive and often used as
     to have growth factors for hair growth,
     the QR 678 treatment is a bioengineered,       an alternative for expensive skin treatments such as plastic surgery. It is useful
     a first-in-class hair therapy, with six hair   in enhancing skin quality, removal of fine wrinkles from the facial skin, removal of
     growth factors and biomimetic peptides,
     administered to the scalp via mesotherapy.     skin marks and spots, and some other treatments such as age spots, sunspots,
     This non-surgical, pain-free, and non-         and freckles.
     invasive procedure for hair regrowth
     treatment formulation has received
     patents in the United States and in India.     The global cosmetic laser market to
     PLASTIC SURGERY MARKET TO                      expand at a CAGR of 13.7 per cent by 2026
     REMAIN POSITIVE IN 2020
     As per the report from the Persistence            As per a report by Transparency Market Research, the global cosmetic laser
     Market Research, a rising number of            market which was valued US$ 1,455.1 million in 2017 is anticipated to expand
     geriatric people along with the growing        at a CAGR of 13.7 per cent from 2018-2026. This expansion can be attributed
     demand for retaining young and beauty
     is key driver for the global plastic           to a rise in medical tourism among people to avail high-quality treatment at
     surgery market, thus helping it remain         affordable rates in the emerging economies of Asia Pacific and Latin America.
     positive through 2020. Plastic surgery,
     a part of cosmetic surgery, is used            Further, continual growth of the cosmetic industry is projected to augment
     for the restoration and enhancement            the global cosmetic laser market between 2018 and 2026.
     of the aesthetic appearance of an                 In terms of revenue, the cosmetic laser market in Asia Pacific is projected to
     individual. North America and Europe
     dominates the global plastic surgery           expand at a CAGR of 14.1 per cent by 2026. An increase in awareness regarding
     market, with Europe holding a major            the advantages of minimally invasive cosmetic procedures, favourable
     share. The market in Asia is expected          government laws supporting medical tourism, attractive procedure rates, and
     to show high growth rates in the next
     five years due to increasing awareness         rise in population in this region is expected to present attractive opportunities
     about plastic surgery procedures and           for the cosmetic laser market in the coming years.
     the growing medical tourism industry.
     China and India are expected to be
     the fastest growing plastic surgery            Global demand for derma fillers to increase
     markets in Asia.
                                                    at a CAGR of 7.7 per cent by 2026
     DERMATOLOGY DRUGS MARKET
     EXPECTED TO REACH US$2.                         As per the global report, the global dermal filler market share is slated to
     MILLION BY 202                                amass substantial gains in the coming years owing to the global demand for
     As per the report from Data Bridge
     Market Research, the dermatology drugs         dermal fillers exclusively in dermatological clinics and is expected to increase at
     market is growing at a CAGR of 8.2 per         a CAGR of 7.7 per cent from 2020-2026.
     cent and is expected to reach US$27.66             High disposable income and a vast geriatric population in developed countries
     million by 2027. Increasing prevalence
     of skin diseases and growing awareness         such as the US, Europe, and the UK is steering the use of advanced cosmetic
     for diagnostics and treatment of skin          procedures with an aim to improve the skin texture. Developments in dermal
     diseases is the major driver for market        filler mechanisms provide improved facial contouring and wrinkle treatment
     growth. Dermatology drugs are raising
     awareness about the treatment of skin          end results.
     related diseases such as acne, alopecia,           In 2019, the India dermal filler market was responsible for over 14 per cent
     cutaneous mastocytosis, dermal necrosis
     and dermal ulcer which will accelerate the     of the revenue share of the entire Asia Pacific dermal filler industry. Skincare
     market growth. Extensive R&D activities        clinics are extensively being established in developing countries like Argentina,
     in dermatology drugs will further create       China, Japan, Korea, and India. They provide specific, targeted services to the
     new opportunities and impact the
     dermatology drugs market growth in the         customers in a short period of time and play a crucial role in steering the demand
     forecast period 2020-2027.                     for soft tissue fillers in these settings among the consumers. AM

12   Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020
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14 NOVEMBER 2020

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COV E R F E AT U R E

     ANTI-AGEING                                                                                        www.aestheticmed.in

                                                                                                                   Sponsored by

     T                                                                       Aged to
               he cliché “what is old is new again,” is a suitable
               anecdote for the ageing urban Indian population.
                 The ageing population wants to bring new life to

                                                                           Perfection
               their skin and give it the appearance that matches
               their mental age and not chronological age.

       “The shift in attitude of people has prompted the growth of
     anti-ageing treatments to reverse
     the signs of extrinsic and intrinsic
     ageing,” says Dr Chiranjiv Chhabra,
                                                                        What treatments are trending for ageing
     Founder Director and Chief                                               skin? Shriyal Sethumadhavan
     Dermatologist, Alive Wellness                                                connects with dermatologists to
     Clinics. She shares the following
     statistics from 2019 that depict the
                                                                              understand popular picks in recent
     age distribution of India: 26.6 per                                   months, commonly used devices, and
     cent = 0 to 14 years; 67 per cent = 15 to 64 years; and 6.38 per   their clientele approach to determine the
     cent = 65 years and above.
                                  “Anti-ageing treatments have
                                                                                                  ideal treatment.
                               always been in demand but now
                               the awareness is more among the          clients consulting dermatologists and aesthetics clinics is
                               millennials who want to invest           increasing.
                               in preventive procedures over               In terms of the trending age group that opts for this
                               curative,” says Dr Sonia Tekchandani,    treatment, it is known that most people start at their
                               Consultant Dermatologist, Tender         early 30s. Dr Rasya Dixit, Medical Director, Dr Dixit
                               Skin International-India and UAE.        Cosmetic Dermatology, brackets the age group between
       “The demand for anti-ageing procedures has increased over                                 30-60-year-old. On his part, Dr
     the last 10 years,” says Dr Shefali                                                         Rishi Parashar, Senior Consultant
     Trasi Nerurkar, MD Skin, Consultant                                                         Dermatologist, Sir Ganga Ram
     Dermatologist, Dr Trasi’s Clinic &                                                          hospital, New Delhi, and Parashar
     La Piel. “What was considered as an                                                         skin clinic, New Delhi, witnesses
     accessory treatment is now one of                                                           maximum demand from those aged
     the essential parts for a lot of the                                                        40-50 years. For Dr Chhabra, its
     patients.”                                                         Dr Rasya Dixit           35-50-year-old, and she mentions,
     In agreement, Dr Padmavathi                                        “Recently, we are seeing the range starting from 24 years.”
     Surapaneni, Dermatologist, Pragna Skin and Laser Clinic,              On similar lines, Dr Tekchandani,
                               Hyderabad, also adds that there          adds, “Maximum demand of anti-
                               has been a steep rise in the last five   ageing treatments earlier was
                               years. She says, “While we have seen     upwards of 40-45+ age group.
                               more women than men opt for this         However, we have noticed an
                               treatment, demand from men has           upsurge in the 25-30 age bracket in
                               also seen a rise in the last             the last few years.” She attributes
                               three years.”                            this increase in awareness to the
                                  Dr Chhabra too agrees that a          selfie fad, and the need to look your        Dr Rishi Parashar
     market shift has been observed and the percentage of male          best always to maintain a social profile.

14   Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020
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   www.aestheticmed.in                                                                                        ANTI-AGEING

                                         HOW DO YOU APPROACH YOUR CLIENT?
 To determine the ideal anti-ageing treatment for the client, what are the key questions with which they can be approached
 during consultation?
 “The basic question would be first to know what their major concern area is, and why?” says Dr Sonia Tekchandani,
 Consultant Dermatologist, Tender Skin International – India and UAE. She adds, “Also understanding their timelines and
 debriefing them on the duration required for these treatments to deliver optimum results. If this is their first time trying
 these treatments, we prefer taking it slow, so they get some to process how these treatments work.”
 Dr Chiranjiv Chhabra, Founder Director and Chief Dermatologist, Alive Wellness Clinics, highlights, “Patients approach
 aesthetic services with the hope that they will achieve their desired results.” She suggests, “The objective of the aesthetic
 consult is to display your knowledge, professionalism, and trustworthiness. Explore the patient’s goals, motivations, and
 expectations within a relationship of trust. Ask questions focussed on the patient’s concerns, preferences, desires, and
 values. And, genuinely help them to prioritise their needs and get started.”

DEMAND IN THE COVID-19 ERA                                      WHAT’S TRENDING!
   The pandemic era has certainly had its own impact on            Treatments for anti-ageing include MNRF, radiofrequency
patient inflow.                                                 for skin rejuvenation and tightening, anti-ageing medi-facials,
   “The number of patients opting for anti-ageing               collagen boosting procedure, botulinum toxin, dermal fillers,
treatments declined to one third,” says Dr Surapaneni. She      hydrating fillers, and thread-lift. Among these, injectables,
further adds that demand for injectables were affected and      botulinum toxin and dermal fillers always are the mainstay of
dropped to one third. Demand continues for energy-based         anti-ageing therapies for skin textural improvement.
therapies such as radiofrequency and HIFU. “As compared            But which treatments have been trending in recent months?
to pre-COIVD, I can see an increased demand for fractional         For Dr Dixit, its botulinum toxin, fillers, and threads. Dr
resurfacing, as clients who cannot withstand the downtime       Parashar mentions chemical peels, HIFU, botulinum toxin,
because of their busy schedule are planning now.”               platelet rich plasma (PRP), and microneedling RF. While Dr
   On her part, Dr Nerurkar shares, “Post-COVID, definitely     Nerurkar sees an increase in number for anti-ageing treatments
the response has gone down. Patients want to do the             such as botulinum toxin injections, fillers and body contouring;
treatments but are scared to venture out to clinics and         Dr Tekchandani highlights the most popular ones at her clinics
get the treatment done. However, once they are convinced        – “the sought-after Kim Kardashian fame vampire facial or
about the safety measures taken in clinic, they are more        collagen induction therapy as we call it.”
forthcoming and start with the treatments.” She further            One of the most popular and effective anti-ageing therapies
categories the patients into two types these days. “In some     is radiofrequency skin tightening, points out Dr Surapaneni.
patients, because they are sitting at home with not much        “HIFU for skin tightening and lifting has gained popularity in
socialising, they are ready for treatments with downtime.       recent years and is well accepted by clients with good results.
And in some patients, due to the financial downfall, they       Collagen induction therapies such as fractional lasers and
are avoiding any treatments till they earn the extra bucks to   derma rollers are much used. The new entries are the PRP
spend on themselves.”                                           therapy and skin boosters for reviving matured skin and
   Dr Tekchandani shares her observation and experience         improving collagen and elastin.”
here. “Immediately post-COVID unlock 1, the patient                To this, Dr Chhabra shares, “The pandemic has changed the
response was immensely slow. Only a handful clients made        way we look. Poeple are more oriented towards beauty, health,
it to the clinic because of the various curfews and the 2 km    and fitness.” She adds that clients are coming in for:
rule. But with time, we have gone back to 70 per cent of our    • Injectables: Clients are looking at quick fixes. They want
pre-COVID number of walk in’s. The senior clients, who are         treatments that require less visits and deliver promising
60+, tend to still be a little apprehensive about stepping         and long-lasting results. They are opting for fillers for
out. A good number of clients who were apprehensive                rejuvenation, face-lift and contouring, and botulinum toxin for
about injectable procedures have come asking for it as             getting rid for lines and wrinkles.
the pandemic has given them the time to evaluate the time       • Hair reduction laser: People are coming regularly for their
spent on multiple sitting procedures over single sitting long      body and face hair reduction. They are referring their
lasting results procedures.”                                       friends and family as they have realised the comfort of long
   While Dr Parashar agrees that there have been less              hair-free periods.
procedures as this socioeconomic stratum is more                • Laser treatments for skin rejuvenation and whitening.
conscious of their health, he adds that botulinum toxin         • Non-surgical and minimally invasive anti-ageing treatments
is still coming along with chemical peels. Similarly,              such as Ulthera and Thermage/Scarlet.
Dr Dixit mentions that people are now asking for creams and     • Hair transplant: Since people are working from home, they
oral supplements, and are slowly coming back to                    want to do hair transplant that mostly involves shaving off
clinics for treatments.                                            the head.

                                                                                 Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020         15
COV E R F E AT U R E

     ANTI-AGEING                                                                                        www.aestheticmed.in

                                                                    a year to maintain the desired results. The end results are
                                                                    tightening of skin lift of saggy tissue with reduction in the
                                                                    jowls and nasolabial folds resulting in the most desired ‘‘v’
                                                                    shape lift of face. Pain is the main issue for this procedure
                                                                    when compared to other aesthetic procedures, but topical
                                                                    anesthesia and analgesics help tackle this.
                                                                       Botulinum toxin: Here is one of the most time-tested
                                                                    procedures with high client satisfaction. “Botulinum toxin
                                                                    is used to relax muscles, like frown lines, forehead worry
                                                                    lines and crows feet. A session takes 20 to 30 minutes to
                                                                    complete, and results are seen in a week,” says Dr Dixit.
                                                                    Botulinum toxin injections are recommended by doctors
                                                                    when you can see wrinkles on forehead, frown and around
                                                                    the eyes, says Dr Nerurkar. Elaborating on the benefits,
                                                                    she says, “It relaxes the overactive muscles causing these
                                                                    wrinkles and makes the skin look rejuvenated. The diluted
                                                                               form called microbotox can be done on the entire
                                                                                    face to tighten the face.”
                                                                                           Dr Tekchandani mentions, ‘facelift in
                                                           Injectables,
     ANTI-AGEING TREATMENTS                                                               a bottle’ as we call it at Tender Skin is a
       Aesthetic Medicine puts together                 botulinum toxin                     minimally invasive procedure. It helps
     a consolidated lists of recommended               and dermal fillers                    in relaxing the muscles while taking
     anti-ageing treatments:                        always are the mainstay                  care of fine lines and wrinkles. And as
       HIFU (High Intensity Focused                                                          Dr Surapaneni puts it, “The therapy
     Ultrasound): Dr Nerurkar recommends
                                                    of anti-ageing therapies                takes away few years from the face.
     HIFU in patients for skin tightening.              for skin textural                  It is injected targeting specific muscle
     HIFU is ideal for patients whose skin is            improvement.                    to relax them and reduce the expression
     loose and saggy leading to heavy lower                                           lines.” Botulinum toxin is also used to reduce
     face and forms nasolabial folds and jowls.                                   bunny lines and marionette lines, nefertiti neck
     “HIFU waves can penetrate to deeper layers                           lift by relaxing platysma.
     of skin called SMAS, the tightening of which, lifts the skin      The most common side-effects include bruising, which
     up,” says Dr Surapaneni. “Twenty per cent of the results       settles in a week. Spread of toxin to adjust muscles can
     are seen immediately and maximum lift is seen by two to        cause weakness of that muscle for a couple of days. Side
     three months.”                                                 effects such as ptosis is rarely witnessed if performed by an
       The second session can be done after three months if         experienced specialist. A big myth that needs busting is that
     further tightening is required. This treatment is done once    it gives you a frozen look. However, excess units of

                                                     TO LOOK AS GOOD AS I FEEL!

        Cosmetic treatments have a major impact on the                More acceptance: To self-improvement and self-care
      confidence and self-image of an urban Indian. “We are a         rituals, this is seen more in millennials. The GEN-X is
      country of Generation-X and millennials. We have more           also getting motivated from the millennials.
      disposable income,” says Dr Chiranjiv Chhabra, Founder          More affordability: Plastic surgery or aesthetic
      Director and Chief Dermatologist, Alive Wellness Clinics.       procedures are not limited to uber wealthy. More
      She adds, “People do not want to wait for wrinkles to form      double income families, flexibility for personal loans,
      and are taking pre-emptive measures to maintain their           credit cards and EMI options are present.
      natural youthful appearance as long as they can.” While the     More technological advances: We have lasers, which
      preference is towards low risk, pain-free and non-invasive      did not exist 10 years ago.
      procedures over surgeries, Dr Chhabra highlights the major      More health benefits: Aesthetic procedures improve
      reasons for increase in aesthetic procedures:                   self-esteem for example procedures such as breast
        Self judgement: We document ourselves more than               reduction can reduce back ache. Aesthetic procedures
        what our parents and grandparents did. We have our            have great psychological benefits.
        hundreds and thousands of selfies and pictures. We            More self-confidence oriented urban Indians: The
        keep judging our own appearance as well as our ageing         urban Indian believes in more self-confidence.
        process.

16   Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020
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   www.aestheticmed.in                                                                                     ANTI-AGEING

botulinum injections can tighten the face leading to frozen      to one year and with new fillers coming, results even
features and looks; the effect wanes out over a period of        last longer up to 14-16 months. Minimal side-effects are
three to four weeks.                                             possible like bruising or a lump like sensation in some
  For this treatment, one sitting every six months is the        areas which are easily addressed and manageable.
requirement, and once it is done, the results last for four to
six months. Botulinum toxin can be done to give your client         Radiofrequency: This is a noninvasive procedure,
just the look they want, patient counseling is key here.         which helps in building up collagen, resulting into an
                                                                 instant tightening effect. As Dr Tekchandani shares, “It
   PRP Therapy: PRP is a promising regenerative therapy          is recommended to patients who are looking for a more
for ageing skin. It is commonly known as vampire facial or       pampered treatment with a natural lift without injectables.
vampire face-lift. As Dr Surapaneni, says, “It leads to loose    It requires about three sessions and a maintenance after
skin, wrinkles, fine lines and pigment formation, a                      every three months. The most loved aspect of the
decrease in collagen formation and reduction                                  treatment is that it has no downtime or side-
of collagen.” Platelets are rich in growth                                       effects and is packed with antioxidant
factors which can stimulate stem cells               RF is a perfect               serums and thermo-masks for the
and fibroblasts which in turn produces                                                best results.
new collagen, elastin and regulates the
                                                    blend of painless
cell turn over. She further elaborates,             technology and                     Thread-lift: Thread-lifts help lift up
“PRP is prepared from the patients’ own           pampering from the                 sagging areas of the face, especially
blood and either injected intradermally                                              jawline and heavy cheeks. Dr Dixit
                                                 anti-ageing procedure
with an insulin syringe or with a gun. It                                           shares, “Treatments are not painful,
can also be infused after derma roller                  bucket.                   take less than an hour. The results are
either by electroporation or ultrasound                                         immediate, and last up to eight months.”
infusion technology.” She adds that usually
the PRP therapy is administered every month                            DEVICES IN VOGUE
for four sessions. It improves the skin hydration, tex ture,       Many devices are used for anti-ageing such as
elasticity, and you can see reduction of fine lines and a        radiofrequency (RF), HIFU, Ulthera, and fractional
glowy skin. Maintenance sessions are advised twice or            resurfacing lasers, to name a few. All devices, with evolved
thrice yearly. It takes a couple of days for the roller of       technology, work around similar principles.
injection marks to settle down. Antibiotic cream is advised        Speaking of her all-time personal favourite,
for two days. Daily routine of moisturiser and sunscreen         Dr Tekchandani mentions, “RF”. She adds, “It is a perfect
should be recommended.                                           blend of painless technology and pampering from the anti-
                                                                 ageing procedure bucket. It is also pocket-friendly with
   Fillers: Fillers are recommended by doctors for skin          amazing results.”
rejuvenation. As Dr Nerurkar says, “These treatments can           On his part, Dr Parashar mentions HIFU, PRP centrifuge
lift the skin, make the face look less tired, less saggy and     and test tubes, hydrafacial machine, and microneedling
less angry. It helps reduce the hollowing below the eyes,        RF, as among the trending devices; and Dr Nerurkar lists
in the cheeks, near the nose and rejuvenate the skin.” She       monopolar radiofrequency (Thermage), HIFU, multipolar
adds that it can be a substitute for face lift surgeries in      radiofrequency, and carbon dioxide laser.
some cases. “When the skin is minimally drooping, these
treatments play an important role, to make it look more
youthful and attractive.” These treatments should be done
by experienced injectors. The side-effects can be bruise,
lumps, nodules, infections to intravascular complications.
One good treatment done requires a follow up after one to
one and a half years.
   Speaking of dermal fillers, Dr Tekchandani shares,
“Liquid facelifts as we call it at Tender Skin are minimally
invasive procedure with good and long-lasting results.
It is recommended in patients where there is a loss of
volume or even for lifting purposes. Hydrating fillers are
my personal favourite as they work like magic in overall
hydration and gives the skin the natural supple texture.”
She adds that the result of fillers lasts from six months

                                                                                 Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020    17
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                                                                                                       www.aestheticmed.in
     ANTI-AGEING

       Devices used by Dr Chhabra for anti-ageing treatment           dermatologist, you are not just a doctor but a counselor,
     include Ultherapy, Thermage, Scarlet, Exilis, Q-switched         a surgeon, a friend, an all in one package for your client.”
     Nd:YAG Laser, Erbium YAG Laser, and microdermabrasion.           She recommends a detailed history along with drawing the
       And, in Dr Surapaneni’s clinic, she shares, “We use            golden ratio for the client’s face to be able understand the
     Ultraformer III a HIFU device; Accent radiofrequency,            areas that need work and how we can have a multiphase 3D
     which is a unipolar and bipolar device; and EndyMed 3Deep        approach to fulfilling the client’s requirement.
     radiofrequency device.” This is used for skin tightening, body      Each person ages a different way, some with volume
     contouring, fractional resurfacing with RF, microneedle RF       loss needing filler, some with sagging, needing threads
     for textural improvement. “We also use Spectra Q-Switched        and devices, says Dr Dixit. She points out to habits such as
     Nd:YAG laser to treat pigment abnormalities. Luminis M22         diet, exercise and smoking that also affect the skin. Plus,
     IPL platform for wide indications such as pigment lightening     she says that the budget needs to be kept in mind while
     and vascular telangiectasia. Lutronic eCO2 is a robust           designing a treatment plan.
     machine for resurfacing and removal of solar keratoses and          Dr Nerurkar shares her perspective: “Every patient
     skin tags. We use the Cooltech machine for body contouring       is different and so is their requirements. All anti-ageing
     to reduce pockets of fat.”                                       procedures are based on the signs of ageing seen on their
                                                                      face. It also depends on the patient preference, as not all
     A PERSONALISED APPROACH                                          of them agree for an injectable treatment.”
        Building personal relationships with your clients is key to      Listing key factors that dermatologists need to
     understanding their expectations right to be able to deliver     focus on while they approach a patient, Dr Parashar
     the best results. Also, a personalised approach becomes          lists: “Assessment of face; expectations of the
     important here as every patient has different skin types         patient; explanation of the procedure and what can be
     and may react differently to molecules.                          achieved; realistically, what can be done is conveyed in a
       “I always say this,” says Dr Tekchandani, “…as a               simple language.”

18   Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020
COV E R F E AT U R E

 www.aestheticmed.in
                                                                                                      ANTI-AGEING

                                                     #STAYSAFE

Considering the pandemic times, safety precautions at          temperature and oximeter checks at entry with
clinics become even more paramount. Patient safety             complete patient sanitization should be mandatory
comes first, and medical practitioners must follow             The patient should not have any symptoms such as
several safety measures to contain the spread of the           fever and sore throat.
virus. Aesthetic Medicine lists key recommendations            If they have travelled, ensure the quarantine period is
shared by dermatologists featured in this story:               done.
                                                               Make your patient feel safe and comfortable.
  Start your day at the clinic(s) with a safety pledge         Use safety gears such as masks, gloves, and head
  as a reminder to the team to do everything it takes          shield.
  to maintain your own safety and the safety of your           PPE kits should be used while doing procedures.
  clients for your families and theirs.                        Opt for best practices such as clinic sanitisation, shoe
  Patient history should be taken on call before they          covers, disposable gloves, and sheets.
  visit clinic (inform them to not bring companions to         Use double glove technique and ensure use of glass
  avoid crowding and respect their time slot to avoid          shield.
  delays and waiting time for other patients).                 Avoid lengthy procedures that last more than 20-30
  COVID consent is important before doing any                  minutes.
  procedures or consultations.                                 Ask the patient to wear masks while doing body and
  Staggered appointments are imperative. Ensure                hair treatments.
  limited appointments in 1 slot. Appointment                  When they come to the clinic, check their vitals such
  management is key to maintain social distancing and          as temperature and oxygen saturation with pulse
  sanitization protocols between two clients.                  oximeter.
  Before calling the patient for the procedure, ensure         Ensure to use disposables and sanitize before and
  there is no case of COVID in their homes or buildings        after each procedure to avoid cross contamination.
  Ask your clients to download the Aarogya Setu app,

                           Do not let your guard down just because things are opening up!

                                                                                                                     AM

                                                                             Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020   19
OPINION

     SKIN / DERMATOLOGY                                                                                www.aestheticmed.in

                      The anti-ageing
                        approach
      Skin appearance and characteristics change with ageing of body. Dr Sudhavani
     Damarla, elaborates on ageing, people’s perspective around it and treatment options.

     T
                he desire for skin with homogenous colour and
                texture, no wrinkles or sagginess, and lustrous
                hair has motivated people to look for antiaging
                treatments. People who appear younger are rated
                as more attractive in comparison to those who
     look older. According to studies, youthful skin that appears
     attractive as well as healthier is preferred among humans.
     Skin texture distribution studies demonstrate that the
     effect of distribution of skin tone can account for up to 20
     years of perceived age.

           COMMON SIGNS OF INTRINSIC AGEING ARE:

         Fine lines and wrinkles.
         Thin and somewhat transparent skin.
         Loss of underlying fat resulting into hollowed cheeks
         and eye sockets with lost firmness on hands and neck.
         Bone loss resulting into bones shrinking away from
         skin. This results into sagging.
         Dry itchy skin.
         Insufficient sweating to cool the skin.
         Hair turn grey and eventually white.
         Hair loss.
         Unwanted hair.
         Nail plate thins, development of ridges.

       A significant loss of fibrillin-positive structure and
     decreased collagen type-7 may play a role in wrinkling as it
     weakens the bond between epidermis and dermis of skin
     that undergoes extrinsic ageing. The sparse distribution
     and reduced content of collagen in photoaged skin may           dermatosis. Advances in medical field and overall improved
     be due to enhanced collagen degradation by matrix               socio-economic status have increased the life expectancy,
     metalloproteinases (MMPs), serine, and other proteases.         which has resulted into exposure to environmental factors,
     Collagen is irregular and poorly organised in older skin, the   irritants, and toxic agents for a longer time.
     ration of collagen-3 to collagen-1 increases mainly due to
     loss of collagen-1. Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are among         Anti-ageing treatments
     the primary dermal skin matrix constituents, which help in        Various in-office procedures and topical treatments,
     binding water. In photoaged skin, they may be associated        most intended to ‘resurface’ the epidermis, are available for
     with abnormal elastotic material, thus not able to function     treatment of ageing skin. This essentially means removal of
     optimally. Collagen, elastin, and GAGs are primary              damaged epidermis (and sometimes dermis) and replacing it
     components that are targets of anti-ageing research.            with remodelled tissue. Different individuals have different
       Ageing skin is markedly susceptible to dermatological         perceptions about how their anti-ageing product works,
     disorders due to changes induced by intrinsic and extrinsic     based on what is bothering them most about their ageing
     ageing. The changes may occur naturally, or due to any          skin. A study that gauged the perception about

20   Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020
OPINION

   www.aestheticmed.in                                                                              SKIN / DERMATOLOGY

anti-ageing products in women aged 25-60 years showed                use. When topically applied, retinoids inhibit AP-1 and thus
that majority of women understood that their anti-ageing             inhibit the expression of MMPs and preventing the collagen
product reduced wrinkles (55 per cent of women) and made             degeneration. Epidermal thickness and anchoring fibrils are
their skin whiter (30 per cent). Thus, it seems that wrinkles        increased, and skin undergoing intrinsic ageing may also
and skin tone are the most noticed signs of ageing skin,             benefit from topical retinoids.
and satisfaction with treatment is gauged on the extent of
effect of anti-ageing products on these two parameters.              Telomere modification: Although telomere modification
                                                                     appears ideal for reversal of skin ageing and high-
   The treatment options are:                                        level of expression of telomere reverse transcriptase
Antioxidants: Antioxidants treat the ageing skin by                  (TERT) in skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes results into
scavenging the reactive oxygen species (ROS) that                            increased proliferative capacity, risk of epidermal
are already formed. ROS activate the AMPK                                         carcinogenesis meanwhile increase. Thus,
pathway, thus increasing the production of                                            this approach needs further investigation
matrix metalloproteinase, which degrades                                                for safety of enhanced proliferation.
the collagen. Antioxidants such as
vitamin C and vitamin E, antioxidant                                                         Anti-inflammaging: ‘Inflammaging’
enzymes like superoxide dismutase,
                                                    Wrinkles and skin tone                    refers to chronic low-grade
catalase,    glutathione      peroxadise,          are the most noticed signs                 inflammation that occurs with
coenzyme Q10 can prevent this by                         of ageing skin.                      advanced age. However, as the
scavenging ROS. Plants like green tea                                                        mechanism of skin inflammaging is
and aloe vera are useful natural sources                                                   little understood, the progress made
of antioxidants. For example, it was found                                               in developing the treatments for skin
that Epigallocatechin galllate (EGCG), which                                          inflammaging is also little. Treatment of
is found in green tea, can prevent skin ageing                                    human fibroblast cells using UV-absorbing
with the help of epidermal growth factor                                  compound mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)
receptor (EGFR) pathway, providing better skin structure             result into suppression of cyclo-oxygenase-2 (COX-2) gene
as compared to control. N-acetyl cysteine, precursor of              expression, which is typically increased in response to skin
glutathione, appears effective in treatment of age-related           inflammation. Also, the expressions of skin ageing-related
decline in tissue regeneration, indicating its potential             proteins elastin and procollagen C-proteinase enhancer are
against skin ageing.                                                 strongly suppressed after UV irradiation but restored after
   However, some researchers suggest that antioxidant                MAAs treatment to normal levels as in control. There are
supplements do not possess preventive effects against                also other anti-inflammaging additives like vitamins A, C, D,
chronic diseases. Excessive supplementations of                      E and K, and green tea.
β-carotene and vitamins A & E, for example, is potentially
harmful, especially in well-nourished populations. It is
stated that the optimal source of antioxidants comes
from diet and not supplements and pills. As ROS have their
physiological functions, it is inadvisable to eliminate all
ROS. Antioxidants appear to offer benefits in skin ageing
only if ROS level is reduced to those of healthy cells.

Stem cell therapy: Stem cell therapy is a promising option for
the treatment of skin ageing. Adipose tissue transplantation
could provide better skin quality at the recipient site, as well
as increased skin volume. Further experiments showed
that adipose-derived stem cells (ADSCs) contribute to skin
regeneration during ageing. In clinical tests, autologous fat
grafting was found to rejuvenate the skin undergoing ageing
and increase the volume of periocular and perioral skin in
participants aged 50 years on average. ADSCs have been
demonstrated to produce a series of growth factors, and
thus may influence the surrounding cutaneous cells through
the secretions. They also seem to trans-differentiate into
epithelial stem cells after fat grafting. This work gives some
information on the way fat grafts may rejuvenate the skin.

Retinoids: Retinoids are chemically similar to vitamin A
(retinol), tretinoin being the first to gain approval for clinical

                                                                                     Aesthetic Medicine • September-October 2020     21
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