BUYERS' GUIDE TO Drinks Retailing 2019 - Drinks Retailing News
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DrinksRetailing
NEWS
BUYERS’ GUIDE TO
2019
001 Cover DRN Mindful Nov 2019.indd 1 06/11/2019 13:48
BUYERS’ GUIDE TO MINDFUL DRINKING 2019 www.drinksretailingnews.co.uk DrinksRetailingNEWS 3
COMMENT
MINDFULNESS
IS HERE FOR
GOOD REASON
Drinks retailers that have noticed sliding sales of beers, wines
and spirits might be inclined to lament the chasteness of those
pesky millennial and generation Z consumers. “Why aren’t they
binge-drinking like their forebears?” they may ask. “And what,
pray tell, is a protein ball?”
It is easy to blame antipathy among younger shoppers for
declining volume sales within BWS: two-fifths of Brits aged
18-24 either do not drink or are trying to moderate their
alcohol consumption, according to Kantar. However, it is really
interesting to note that the largest group of teetotallers in
Britain are women aged 50 and above. They account for a third
Contents
of all people shunning alcohol.
That illustrates just how important it is for retailers to
embrace the trend for mindful drinking, as demand is coming
from both ends of the spectrum and it is growing each year.
When we say mindful drinking, we really mean moderating
alcohol consumption. This can take the form of drinking
less but drinking better quality, and primarily it focuses on
5 27STATISTICS
How the category fared this
year – the figures behind
KOMBUCHA
The fermented tea drink is
finding favour in the on-trade –
championing low and no-alcohol alternatives. the trends the off-trade is next
The craze for mindfulness continues to permeate every facet
of British life. Mindful eating is all about chewing slowly and
enjoying the taste and texture of every mouthful, rather than
just shovelling in food. There is even mindful sex – it involves
6 BEHIND THE NUMBERS
Why consumers are prepared
to pay more for products that
28 WINE
Why lower-alcohol versions
need to up their game when it
meditation, sensual stories, massage candles, sex toys, calorie meet certain criteria comes to quality
counting and, ahem, fur oil, according to The Sunday Times.
Some of this noise is easy to dismiss, but mindfulness really
focuses on making decisions to lead a lifestyle that is better for
the wellness of your body and mind. This is important because
8 CLARIFYING TERMINOLOGY
There are calls for definitions
around abv to be made clearer
30 LIGHTER WINE
The producers pioneering a
way of keeping texture and
people are living longer in a digitally enabled world, with reams on labelling flavour at lower abv
of educational material on wellness at their fingertips.
People do not want the quality of their long lives to be
diminished. The challenge for producers and retailers is to
present drinks that are lower in alcohol or free of alcohol,
10 ROUNDTABLE
DRN’s team of experts discuss
the importance of making the
31 DRINKAWARE
Retailers and consumers alike
are inspired by the latest
but that also taste great and look great. They really should be category more cohesive campaign
presented in environmentally friendly packaging too.
Beers, wines and spirits have always flourished on the back
of creating a sense of belonging, serving as the glue that holds
social situations together. Now the challenge is to replicate
16 LOW-ALCOHOL BEER
It’s the sector that’s being held
up as the role model for others
32 BUYERS
The people who decide what
products are best are bravely
that with high-quality alternatives that remove the harm and moving forward working together
hassle from packaging, and benefit shoppers’ health rather
than put it at risk, while adding excitement, Instagrammability,
personalisation and customisation. If retailers can crack this
trend, the sector should enjoy a long and healthy future.
24 ALCOHOL-FREE SPIRITS
In a burgeoning sector,
producers are focusing on NPD
34 MERCHANDISING
Producers and retailers give
some useful insight into
Martin Green, editor with benefits ranging in-store
Editor Commercial director Drinks Retailing News is circulated to
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MARTIN GREEN SAMANTHA HALLIDAY SUBSCRIPTION all channels of the UK off-trade –
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003 Contents DRN Mindful Nov 2019 SUBBED CORRECTED.indd 3 06/11/2019 14:52
BUYERS’ GUIDE TO MINDFUL DRINKING 2019 DrinksRetailingNEWS www.drinksretailingnews.co.uk 5
ANALYSIS: STATISTICS
MAIN FIGURES
AT A GLANCE
A visual guide to how the numbers stack up for low and no-alcohol
0.7%
£22.4
no and low-alcohol alternatives
£116.6 £202
represent just a fraction of the BWS
category
MILLION
MILLION growth in the no and low- MILLION
the value of the no and low- alcohol BWS category over the value of the adult soft
alcohol BWS category the past year drinks category
2% just one in 50
shoppers of alcohol-
free BWS have never
consumed alcohol
20.4%
proportion of Brits who say they are
teetotal, including 22.6% of women and
4,000
the approximate number of press
18.1% of men releases DRN receives per day
SOURCES: NIELSEN, KANTAR, ONS announcing new alcohol-free drinks
005 Stats DRN Mindful Nov 2019 SUBBED.indd 5 06/11/2019 13:42
6 BUYERS’ GUIDE TO MINDFUL DRINKING 2019 www.drinksretailingnews.co.uk
ANALYSIS: RESEARCH
BREAKING DOWN
THE STATISTICS
006-007 Kantar DRN Mindful Nov 2019 SUBBED/CORRECTED.indd 6 05/11/2019 15:48
DrinksRetailingNEWS 7
Research by Kantar shows that consumers are prepared to pay a premium for products that fit a
particular set of mindful credentials. By Martin Green
T
he no and low-alcohol bottle entirely made of paper. Refillables
category has seized are becoming more prominent in
£71 million in shopper supermarkets.
spend from BWS over “Low and no can offer a lot of flavour.
the past year,
according to Kantar
It can offer the experience of having an
alcoholic drink, but being either low or
Low and no can offer a lot
data. Andy Crossan, alcohol insight no-alcohol. It fits well into the conscious of flavour. It can offer the
director at the research firm, addressed a
room of mindful drinking enthusiasts at a
consumer element. Consciousness will
continue to be a driving force for the
experience of having an
recent Kiasco Research summit on the 2020 consumer. alcoholic drink, but being
topic. He reports that only 2% of people “Consciousness goes hand in hand with either low or no-alcohol
who bought no and low-alcohol drinks health. On average we are willing to spend
over the past year were previously 17p more on a meal when it hits that
teetotal. health credential. If it can market itself he adds, highlighting an opportunity for
“It’s very rare that people move from and touch upon enjoyment, practicality retailers and for producers such as Big
outside the BWS sector into low and and health then a premium is really Drop and Small Beer.
no alcohol,” he says. “We know that it’s justified. One example is Nakd bars, which “Spirits at 0% has been a real key
younger drinkers who are more likely to sell at a premium of 25% more than your differentiator in the market. It has found
dabble in low and no. average chocolate bar, despite being 40% a good niche to go after and is reaping the
“It has done well among young and lighter in weight. benefits of it,” he says.
affluent consumers. “We can see the parallels you can Crossan adds that the wine trade
“For the younger generation, it’s draw from no and low. Justifying a can learn a lot from spirits when it
more about moderating. Two-fifths of premium relies on clarity and points of comes to promoting alternative serves
18 to 24-year-olds tell us that they are differentiation.” that help Brits moderate their alcohol
actively trying to moderate their alcohol consumption. “Spirits have got ahead of
consumption. At the other end of the CHOOSING NOT TO DRINK the game on it,” he says.
spectrum, the highest percentage of Kantar surveys 30,000 households on a “Be creative with it and think about
teetotallers per demographic group regular basis and monitors why people how you can market your drinks along
comes from 50-plus females. They choose not to drink alcohol. “Across all with a soft drink, a mixer, to bring it down
account for a third of non-drinkers in age groups, not liking the taste is either in abv and bring it down to that lower
Britain and that is growing. number one or number two in the list of alcohol.
“We have younger drinkers reasons,” says Crossan. “That is the biggest “Wine with a mixer is growing at 8.1%
moderating, and the older generation hurdle that alcohol brands and no and year on year. It’s a good area for wine to
cutting out alcohol altogether.” low brands have to get over. look into, considering spirits is cracking
Crossan is keen to point out that the “The good news is in 2017 a fifth of this sector considerably at the minute.
average modern consumer is “very consumers said they didn’t buy non- The occasions that it attracts are upbeat
conscious”. He does not simply mean alcoholic and low-alcohol beers because and about socialising, an area in which
that they are awake, rather that they are they didn’t like the taste, whereas in our low and no-alcohol does very well.
mindful of the drinks they consume and most recent survey the highest answer for “It also attracts younger consumers –
the purchasing decisions they make. people who drink them is because they 41% of still wine serves with a mixer are 18
“One third of shoppers try to buy taste really good. Although there’s a long to 35. It could be about taking your brand,
products with environmentally friendly way to go in this area, it’s very interesting which maybe doesn’t have the credentials
credentials,” he says. “Almost half of that it is shifting in a positive direction.” of a no and low, but think about how
consumers believe that manufacturers Many brand owners ask Crossan if you can reinvent it with a serve to attract
should be leading on reducing use of shoppers are picking up alcohol-free beers moderators, because there is a massive
plastic. Carlsberg has brought out a by mistake, thinking they are alcoholic. opportunity to capture moderators
“Well if they were, there’s a pretty high through spritzers in particular.
percentage coming back, and that is a key “A higher percentage of those drinking
trend in this area,” he says. “If you can get these drinks are happy to consider low
your taste right, in terms of non-alcoholic and no alcohol and they are trying to
beer in particular, the repeat rates tend to moderate. The average trying to moderate
If you can get your taste be very high. A few brands are touching is 40%, but it’s 51% in this area.
50% on their own in this area, so there’s an “For the conscious consumer, there
right, in terms of non- opportunity in that.” is a pattern developing – younger
alcoholic beer in particular, He points to Adnams Ghost Ship consumers moderating and older
ISTOCK.COM/ ARTHOBBIT
alcohol-free as a good example of a brand consumers leaving alcohol. The 2020
the repeat rates tend to be enjoying strong shopper loyalty in this consumer is very conscious, and that will
very high space. “There is nothing that premium continue to drive decision making in the
within no and low-alcohol beer and cider,” future for purchases.”
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8 BUYERS’ GUIDE TO MINDFUL DRINKING 2019 www.drinksretailingnews.co.uk
ANALYSIS: LABELLING
CLARIFICATION
CALLED FOR ON
DEFINITIONS OF
LOW AND NO
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D
At the moment, product rinks producers
reacted with dismay
labelling is dependent last year when a
on a variety of abv Department of Health
consultation resulted in
percentage levels, which no change to guidance
creates confusion for all around labelling of no and low-alcohol
drinks. That maintained a frustrating
involved. The general status quo. Under current guidance, only
consensus is that greater beers and wines of up to 0.05% abv can
be labelled as alcohol-free. Those with
guidance is needed. an abv of 0.5% to 1.2% should be labelled
Martin Green reports as low alcohol. Anything between 0.05%
and 0.5% is supposed to be described as
de-alchoholised.
This is problematic for producers and
retailers as it creates confusion among
consumers and stifles growth in an
important category. In Germany a 0.5%
beer is labelled alcohol-free and in the US
it is referred to as non-alcoholic. This is
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because a beer or wine at 0.5% abv has no
physiological impact on the body. It is too
weak to affect the blood alcohol level, and
is safe for drivers and pregnant women
to enjoy. Yet they are often left concerned
by the product being described as
low-alcohol rather than alcohol-free or
non-alcoholic, and that deters them from
making a purchase.
Orange juice typically has an abv of
0.5% as a result of natural fermentation,
as does a banana and a loaf of bread.
“You can currently buy kombucha that’s
1.2% abv in Waitrose without age ID, so
who knows what the rules really are at
the moment?” asks Laura Willoughby,
Everything 0.5% and below
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should be no-alcohol. That’s
where it is across the rest of
the world
008-009 Labelling DRN Mindful Nov 2019 SUBBED.indd 8 06/11/2019 13:43
DrinksRetailingNEWS 9
founder of consumer group Club Soda.
The Department of Health has
seemingly realised that its decision not to
change the guidance is an error, and it has
just finished another consultation with
Public Health England about the benefits
of telling people that drinks at an abv of
0.5% and below are alcohol-free.
“I am hoping it will come out with the
right suggestion, bearing in mind one of
its strategies is to promote more low and We feel strongly that more
no-alcohol as a way of helping people
reduce their drinking,” says Willoughby.
support should be given to
“Everything 0.5% and below should be the development of low and
no-alcohol. That’s where it is across the
no-alcohol drinks because
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rest of the world. At the moment, when
producers are asked about it being 0.5%, of the role they play in
they go, ‘oh I don’t know, it’s the same as a
banana’, and everyone panics.
encouraging people to drink
“Spain and Germany have such responsibly
buoyant, accepted alcohol-free beer
markets, because the pregnancy groups,
the driving groups, the government and greater clarity as they make purchasing
everyone else were aligned on what was choices.”
alcohol-free, how much you can drink Willoughby can offer some intriguing
and these were OK if you’re pregnant and examples of just how muddled the
driving and so on. current guidance around labelling is.
“It’s a bit ridiculous anyway, because “At the minute, as an alcohol-free beer
they’re only guidelines. It’s up to Trading you have to say what you are [alcohol-free
Standards to decide on. There’s no or low-alcohol]. But if you are a soft drink,
comeback at the minute. Nobody has told the rules don’t apply, you can be 0.5%,”
anybody off, nobody has asked anybody she says. “Equally there’s no sugar tax on
to re-label their products. Nanny State Kopparberg alcohol-free, because it’s an
[which is 0.5% abv] is still called alcohol- alcohol-free cider, but if it was a soft drink
free on the label. If a minister can be kept it would have sugar tax.
in the Department of Health for long “So every soft drink should call itself
enough it might help.” an alcohol-free version of an alcoholic
drink to get out of sugar tax, and every
BACKING CHANGE alcohol-free beer should call itself a soft
ISTOCK.COM/ FYMSTUDIO
Some producers of 0.0% abv have drink and then it can have whatever abv
warned that it would be misleading on it,” she says. “That’s the weird situation
and dangerous to refer to 0.5% abv at the minute.
beers as alcohol-free beer. However, the “Consistency around messages needs
British Beer & Pub Association and the to change. I hope that will change. If the
Portman Group have backed a change government really thinks people are at
in guidance. “We’re seeing a real boom risk when consuming things at 0.5% abv,
in the popularity of low and no-alcohol then it really needs to look at other drink
products,” says Portman Group chief types.”
executive John Timothy. “The impending The government is a bit tied up with
expiration of current guidance around election fever and Brexit right now,
their definitions has acted as a catalyst for but it should eventually get around to
a rethink of descriptors for this important tightening up its alcohol strategy and
category of drinks. labelling guidance.
“We feel strongly that more support “Once it has changed, the sector needs
should be given to the development to come together and work out how
of low and no-alcohol drinks because it talks to those other key influencers
of the role they play in encouraging in the sector, to have a very clear and
people to drink responsibly. There are consistent message,” says Willoughby.
currently four descriptors in use, which “Who looks after this sector? There isn’t
are confusing for both producers and a trade association in place. The existing
consumers to navigate. trade associations such as SIBA have some
“Bringing the UK’s alcohol-free responsibility in this space, but there are
ISTOCK.COM/ VIKTOR_GLADKOV
threshold up to 0.5% from where it some new things to discuss, and nobody
currently sits at 0.05% will bring UK is bringing the concerns up for wider
regulations in line with existing practice discussion.
in the majority of European countries – “There will be perception hurdles as
this will create a level playing field for UK well as regulatory hurdles that need to
producers and will also give consumers be discussed.”
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10 BUYERS’ GUIDE TO MINDFUL DRINKING 2019 www.drinksretailingnews.co.uk
SEEKING COHESION IN A
FRAGMENTED CATEGORY
While it’s a tiny market at the moment, no and low-alcohol is only going to grow, our roundtable
experts agree. But the trade needs to work together to properly define the sector and ensure a
smooth journey into the future. Martin Green reports from the event
ANALYSIS: ROUNDTABLE
THE PANEL
ZOEY HENDERSON RICHARD JONES LAURA WILLOUGHBY DAWN DAVIES MW
Head of operations, Redemption Managing director, Reh Kendermann Founder, Club Soda Head buyer, the Whisky Exchange
010-015 Roundtable DRN Mindful Nov 2019 SUBBED CORRECTED.indd 10 05/11/2019 15:50DrinksRetailingNEWS 11
S
ales of beer, wine and With thanks to our partner group of alcohol-free, gluten-free, vegan
spirits are declining Black Tower and associate bars; Richard Jones, managing director of
each year as sponsor Big Drop Brewing Black Tower supplier Reh Kendermann
increasing numbers of and chairman of Yapp Brothers; Nick
Brits strive to Worthington, commercial director at Big
moderate their Drop; and Laura Willoughby, founder
alcohol consumption and lead healthier of Club Soda, an organisation of 45,000
lives. Drinks retailers can help preserve members that encourages mindful
the future health of our industry by drinking and runs festivals to that end.
championing the mindful drinking Willoughby’s research suggests that
movement that is sweeping the nation. 8.6 million people are moderating their
Sales of low and no-alcohol alternatives drinking this year, and she aims to create
account for just 0.7% of the BWS category, a society in which nobody has to feel out
while annual sales of adult soft drinks of place not drinking. She is concerned
currently stand at just £202 million per that nobody is looking after this sector,
year (Nielsen and Kantar). However, and no trade body is taking ownership
there is a great deal of potential for this of it. “There are perception hurdles as
flourishing sector. Consumer demand well as regulatory hurdles that need to be
is rising, it has the potential to offer high discussed,” she says.
margins and it is important for retailers to
back it from a responsibility standpoint. DISJOINTED SECTOR
Yet right now the category is The no and low-alcohol sector certainly
embryonic, muddled and fragmented, so seems extremely disjointed. There is little
it is important to bring the trade together consistency around merchandising in the
to share best practice and to work on a retail channel, shoppers are often unsure
blueprint for shaping a successful future.
With that in mind we assembled
THE VENUE where to find these drinks and terms such
as low-alcohol and alcohol-free can be
a heavyweight panel covering many Thank you to Vagabond Wines confusing for consumers. The pricing is
different facets of the trade to discuss the for hosting DRN’s roundtable polarised, with alcohol-free wine typically
discussion about mindful drinking.
potential of this sector and how to ensure selling below £4 per bottle and the likes
that it thrives long into the future. of Seedlip, Ceder’s and Aecorn pushing
It comprised: Dawn Davies MW, head VAGABOND towards super-premium price points.
buyer at the Whisky Exchange and Charlotte Street, London The category clearly has a long way
Speciality Drinks; Freddie Cobb, buyer vagabondwines.co.uk to go, and there are many obstacles
at Vagabond Wines; Zoey Henderson, to be overcome, but the trade clearly
head of operations at Redemption, a recognises its potential. “I am seeing
increasing sales and increasing numbers
of products coming through, but I am
seeing increasingly bad products and I am
seeing a need for more clarity around the
topic,” says Davies, who launched Seedlip
The messaging, the at Selfridges and then at the Whisky
Exchange when she changed jobs.
education and labelling are Henderson adds: “It’s in such a unique
in a bit of a mess right now, place and it’s in such infancy. The
messaging, the education and labelling
but it will become much are in a bit of a mess right now, but it will
clearer in future become much clearer in future. We have
to drive it.”
NICK WORTHINGTON FREDDIE COBB SONYA HOOK MARTIN GREEN
Commercial director, Big Drop Buyer, Vagabond Wines Deputy editor, DRN Editor, DRN
010-015 Roundtable DRN Mindful Nov 2019 SUBBED CORRECTED.indd 11 05/11/2019 15:5012 BUYERS’ GUIDE TO MINDFUL DRINKING 2019 www.drinksretailingnews.co.uk
Davies is pleased to be making high
margins by selling drinks that mimic
spirits, but unsure if it is ethical. “I wonder
if no and low is ripping off the consumer,”
she says. “We make very high margins on
no and low. It is huge. It’s good for me to
make a higher margin, but is it right?”
Jones argues that the trade needs
higher-margin products if it is to
survive, and urges buyers to champion
this category. “The drinks industry,
compared with a lot of retail industries,
especially in the off-trade, has one of
the lowest margins,” he says. “One of
the reasons there are very few large
specialist chains left in the industry is
that it’s not sustainable to run a shop on
the margins that are currently out there.
As an industry we need to have exciting
products that enable the trade to actually
make a living.
“At the moment, if you look at the
commercials of running most drinks
companies, as a specialist it’s extremely
difficult to make a living. As a grocer it’s
great, because if people buy a whole
basket of groceries and then add alcohol
to it, that’s an additional sale. But if you
are surviving purely on selling alcoholic
products, the industry really needs
another 10% margin to be really healthy.
It’s great if they are offering that margin.
Take it.”
CRUCIAL ALTERNATIVES
Jones has worked in the wine trade for
more than 40 years and he believes low
and no-alcohol products are crucial to its
sustainability. “This is really critical for us,
particularly for the wine industry,” he says.
“Having had a glorious 50 years of growing
wine sales as it was demystified and the
supermarkets started selling it and sales
grew enormously, wine sales have been
reducing for at least five years now, and we
need to sell something. Lower alcohol is don’t dealcoholise, we don’t extract, we Davies: “We have
how we can offer alternatives.” don’t use reverse osmosis – we go through to be responsible as
Cobb worked in wine production the full brewing process and you end up buyers to give the
before becoming a buyer at Vagabond, with a beer that tastes like a beer and you consumer a good
and he says he is still to find an alcohol- are not compromising at all. product”
free wine of the requisite quality to stock “We make beer to taste like beer, but
and put on its Enomatic machines. “I’m without the alcohol, and we are very
yet to taste anything that we would be much quality driven. Looking after
proud enough to put our names to, so yourself is a massive trend now, and not
that’s a concern,” he says. “ drinking no longer carries a stigma. It
The beer category has enjoyed greater seemed to be ridiculous that there wasn’t
success within the low and no-alcohol great beer out there without alcohol in it,
sector as it has come closer to replicating so we created Big Drop.
the taste, texture and experience of
drinking a lager or an ale. “Beer seems
“The demand is there now from
consumers for quality products.” The whole soft drinks category
to be the easiest transition for people to Redemption was ahead of the market
understand,” says Worthington. “As long
as there are brews out there that taste
when it first launched bars selling alcohol-
free drinks and vegan, gluten-free food
needs to be flipped on its
pretty close to alcoholic beer. It’s about
choice, not compromise. You don’t have to
six years ago. “Now, thankfully, the trends
have caught up with our offer and we are
head. No retailer worth its salt
compromise on flavour or quality, you just
open up a choice of having alcohol or not.
very much on brand,” says Henderson. “At
the start it was all about imitating alcohol should sell cola or lemonade
“When you are naturally brewed – we and imitating meat, as that’s how you get
010-015 Roundtable DRN Mindful Nov 2019 SUBBED CORRECTED.indd 12 05/11/2019 15:51DrinksRetailingNEWS 13
Natuero by Torres is also a very good
product.
“It’s not all about replicating, but giving
someone who normally drinks alcohol
the experience of drinking alcohol, getting
as close as possible to that sensation in
terms of taste and texture. It’s hugely
important. It’s less important for someone
who was never a drinker.”
Cobb adds: “The low and no-alcohol
wines I’ve tasted just don’t have the
texture and mouthfeel. People are moving
away from crisp, light wines such as Pinot
Grigio. They want something that has a
bit more body to it. Not necessarily more
alcohol, but more body, texture and
mouthfeel to it.”
REDUCING SUGAR
Some producers use sugar to provide
texture when creating alcohol-free drinks,
but Redemption is also a sugar-free bar. “A
big reason for people not drinking alcohol
is they want to reduce their sugar,” says
Henderson. “We know how much sugar
alcohol contains. It’s finding that balance
and finding products that can mimic the
flavour profiles and textures of alcohol
without using sugars.
“But for us it all boils down to
education, because people are unaware of
the percentages, what’s in the drinks, how
to drink it and how to mentally assess
price points. With vegan food, people
attributed the meat on the plate to the
value, but it’s actually the creation of the
dish and the flavours, and with non-
alcoholic drinks it’s the process, the herbs,
botanicals, textures and flavours. All of
those combined. You have to start a whole
new education process.
“The whole soft drinks category needs
to be flipped on its head. No retailer worth
its salt should sell cola or lemonade. Henderson (top comes to communicating with consumers
They’re not good products. They’re full right): “You have to in the no and low-alcohol sector.
people into it. But ultimately many people of chemicals. They’re bad for you. If the start a whole new “Some of the companies in the spirits
don’t want imitation. other drinks on your menu are shining education process” industry are masters of branding,”
“Some people still want something that examples of provenance and taste, and he says. “Diageo [which recently took
tastes a bit like rum or tastes a bit like gin, then you automatically stick cola on the over Seedlip] is probably one the best
and you get those flavour profiles. Then menu, that’s got to stop.” branding companies in the world, but it
you get the plant spirit category, where Jones is also keen to point out that also has the financial resources to invest
they are more like botanical tinctures. It’s alcohol-free and low-alcohol wine allows massively. The wine industry is incredibly
a cross between alchemy and mixology, consumers to significantly cut back on fragmented. There are hundreds of
and it sits in a different category.” calorie intake. “Zero-alcohol products thousands of wine producers, and the
Davies agrees with this sentiment. tend to have about less than half the investment in brands is relatively small,
“They are two separate categories and calories of the full-alcohol product,” because no company has the financial
they need to be looked at in very different he says. “Our 5.5% abv wine has only 55 might of Diageo to do it.
ways,” she says. “It has to be two very calories, and our zero-alcohol wine has 45 “The company with the largest market
distinct things to educate the consumer in calories a glass. With the average 13.5% abv share in the UK is 5%. That compared
the right way.” wine, you are probably looking at about to most FMCG sectors is very small.
The biggest obstacle for her is texture. 135 calories for a dry wine. Trying to get new concepts to consumers
“With no alcohol in it, texture is often “Alcohol carries twice as many calories requires communication. The fastest
an issue,” says Davies. “Texture is really per gram as sugar, because the calories way is advertising. If you’ve got a very
important in the whole experience of are very concentrated. For those who are small budget, it’s much slower and more
alcohol. The only product I have come reducing calorie count, low or lower are difficult to get the message across, so
across that gives me texture and good extremely good.” you’ve got to be very canny. We have a
flavour is Aecorn. That’s really interesting He appreciates that spirits and beer very fragmented industry.
and a really important part of the journey. have an advantage over wine when it “There will be very exciting things
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that suddenly poke their head up. Seedlip demand has not followed through, but it’s Cobb: “People are home will be crucial to the success of the
is one of the most interesting things that changing this year. The on-trade is now moving away from category, particularly for the drinks that
has happened, because it has created looking for better quality. crisp, light wines mimic spirits. “Aecorn and soda is simple,
its own category. It’s another Hoover or “The retailers were quicker onto the such as Pinot fresh, low-sugar, low-calorie, easy to make.
Dyson or Biro, it really has been very trend than the on-trade, but the on-trade Grigio. They want Those simple serves are very strong in the
clever. is now catching up.” something that market. That’s why gin has done well.”
“Trying to do that in wine is very has a bit more body She believes it is the big brand owners
difficult. The brands are all quite small. SERIOUS MOVES to it” that will drive growth in this sector.
Beer is four times bigger than wine is in Jones believes the grocers are now taking “Why are Moët, Tanqueray and Cîroc so
this sector because the big brands are this category very seriously. “There is now popular?” she asks. “They have marketing
behind it.” a specific buyer for low and no-alcohol budgets and advocates such as Beyonce.
Most major brewers have piled into wine,” he says. “The beer buyer will buy The hope is that with Diageo now taking
this space and secured listings with the the low and no-alcohol beer. A wine buyer on Seedlip, that may change. It is doing
multiple retailers, but Worthington warns will be given certain countries to buy, that mass market branding. The big brand
that this is not necessarily beneficial for and tacked on will be low and no-alcohol. owners will drive the mass market.
the future health of the category. There is some thought being given to “There are some awesome brands
“The big brands are behind it, but it, and most supermarkets now have that are doing some funky stuff that is
that’s not always good,” he says. “They some sort of low and no section. It might changing the industry and how people
often don’t know what to do, and they just be wine, or it might be all together. perceive wine. They are making it more
dealcoholise it, and you end up with a The consumer now has something that consumer friendly and reducing alcohol
poor product. Their consumer has to is reasonably well signposted. Lower- levels. Wine is not standing still, it’s just
compromise, and it doesn’t always help alcohol will tend to be put into the main working in a small parameter.”
the category. category as a sub-category. In the earlier Yet she argues that buyers need to
“We were told by one of the big retailers days, it was a real problem. You don’t serve as gatekeepers for the category
recently that if one of the big guys came put it with Coca-Cola, because it’s a very and ensure that it retains integrity going
in with their alcohol-free version of their different drink to the soft drinks. forward. “It cannot go the way of gin.
biggest selling product we would be out “The major retailers are taking this
the door immediately. We know that very seriously, because they are selling
product coming out would not even be more and more each year. Money drives
a fifth the quality we have put in, but it these things, and space. We have probably
has a brand name. There is a risk in the been through the most difficult stage – the
beer space that the big brands are piling infancy, where people weren’t quite sure We see multiples with their
into the retail space and squashing out – and now people are sure, and we see a
the earlier alcohol-free brands that were lot of big multiples with their own-label own-label range, but for the
more craft and quality driven. range, but for the category to grow you category to grow you need
“The retailers were quicker to pick up need brands, because they tend to be
on consumer demand than the on-trade. more innovative, more exciting.” brands, because they tend
The on-trade has been much slower and Davies says that promoting simple to be more innovative
the barriers have been up. The consumer serves that shoppers can easily make at
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There are gins out there that are not the law tells me a product is. We have space,” she says. “You could do tastings of
fucking gins, because they have no juniper to be responsible as buyers, to give the your ranges. We know that if you do a beer
in them. If we don’t act now, the industry consumer a good product and to help tasting or botanical tasting, these events
will be 10 miles down the road. the consumer to understand what are full. People will buy a brand of alcohol
“If it’s not a gin, it shouldn’t be referred that product is. We are responsible as they haven’t tasted before, because they
to as a gin. You can liken it to something. I retailers and bars for the consumer, but know what it does. They won’t spend
said to one producer, I am not going to sell the producer has a responsibility to say, £1.50 on an alcohol-free drink unless they
your product, because by EU definition ‘this is my category, is this an acceptable know they definitely like it, which is why
you cannot call it a triple sec, you cannot product?’ and then drive it.” we do the festivals.”
call it a liqueur, because you are by law Henderson was impressed by
wrong, and if I don’t stand up for that then MARKET DRIVERS Sainsbury’s decision to launch a pop-up
I am allowing these people to do what Worthington believes the category bar in London called the Clean Vic. “That
happened with gin. They are changing the will be driven by a combination of was an amazing thing to do,” she says.
labels now, because I said it’s illegal, you PR, marketing, online activity and “The smaller brands can piggyback on
can’t do this. It’s up to me as someone who Willoughby: partnerships between suppliers and that. If big brands are smashing loads of
knows what the law should be to help “Supermarkets retailers. “Communication is definitely marketing budgets and having celebrities
safeguard the consumer. actually have a lot an issue in a retail environment,” he says. endorsing low and no-alcohol brands and
“There have to be rules put in place, of space. You could “Online it’s easy, because you can present putting huge spend on online advertising
people defining what is an alcohol-free do tastings of your more information about the product than and above-the-line advertising, then that’s
product. I have to stand up for what ranges” what’s just on the pack. Driving trial is educating consumers, and they can then
big for us, because once they taste it they get into the smaller brands.”
say, ‘wow, that is not what I expected, it’s She feels many of the challenges
much better’.” that dogged the sector in its infancy are
Henderson says sampling can be starting to be ironed out. “It has been a
tricky in a retail space. “It’s difficult in a logistical challenge,” she says. “We now
supermarket environment, because you use a non-alcoholic wholesaler we can get
get a thimble of it, it’s warm and it’s not all our products from. At the start there
very exciting,” she says. “You want it in were independent brands, and you would
a nice glass with a garnish. Retailers can have their product in for a couple of
work with brands to do little pop-ups and weeks, then you couldn’t get hold of them,
masterclasses, to get the people from the then they would disappear, you would be
brand in to give the staff an education. waiting for the next batch to be made.
That’s really important, to give that “In its infancy there were so many
support. problems with routes to market.
“The brands can then use their online Low and no-alcohol wholesalers have
space to build resources, and there’s also been a massive help, because you can
a responsibility of working with PR and get it all from one place. That’s a huge
press to create more noise about it, and to barrier lifted.”
have more mindful drinking festivals, to This trend for moderation looks likely to
re-educate people about it.” accelerate in the future and it is becoming
Willoughby has seen multiple retail easier than ever to make a success of it.
buyers join her group to research Retailers that embrace it could reap the
what consumers want in this space. rewards in the years ahead. It might even
“Supermarkets actually have a lot of help them stay in business.
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ANALYSIS: ALE
HOW BEER GOT T
he early-1980s comedy
sketch show Not The
Nine O’Clock News
captured the public
RECAST AS A LOW
mood around
alcohol-free beer in a
spoof commercial for Barbarian, a
send-up of Barbican, then the market
AND NO ROLE MODEL
leader in the UK. You can find it on
Youtube. The sketch sees Rowan
Atkinson impersonate Lawrie
McMenemy, the football manager who
advertised the real thing, in a voiceover
for a film in which Atkinson and co-stars
Griff Rhys Jones and Mel Smith play a
Once little more than the butt of many jokes, this category has group of dockers working up a sweat
during a heavy shift.
now become a hero of the reduced-abv movement, showing how They retire to the pub at the end of
it’s possible to retain flavour and quality in the absence of alcohol. the day for a glass of the beer which the
voiceover tells us is “clear, cool, flavourless
Nigel Huddleston reports but, above all, refreshing, pint after
pint”. The trio then demonstrate its cool,
refreshing properties… by pouring it over
their heads. Cut to Atkinson in a bath of
the stuff and the commentary advising:
“But mind, don’t confuse it with beer.”
The sketch summed up the feeling
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CORE PRINCIPLES
Not only have low-alcohol beers changed by four factors: lifestyle, health, religion and
beyond recognition but the range of reasons for drinking occasions.”
seeking them out has widened as well. Graham Archibald at Morgenrot adds:
What was once a single-function product – “It started with the health-conscious and
looking like you were having a beer when you abstainer, but there is undoubtedly a younger
had to drive home – is now a multi-purpose one. generation who aren’t as interested in alcohol
John Hadingham, managing director of as previous ones helping to drive further
Suffolk’s St Peter’s Brewery, which has been interest and growth.”
seeing success in supermarkets with its Rob Fink at Big Drop says: “In a customer
Without alcohol-free brand, says modern survey we found that only a fifth of
health concerns are playing more into the respondents chose not to drink alcohol at all.
hands of completely alcohol-free products than Most are simply looking at ways to moderate
the low-alcohol band above 0.5%. their drinking without giving up beer altogether.
“There is more interest in 0.0% and 0.5% abv “The underlying reasons for that could be
than the low-alcohol sector, with one in three general health and wellbeing or any number of
young adults shunning alcohol and one in five specific things, such as training for a sporting
British adults now being teetotal,” he says. event, corporate policy for working hours or
“The surge in demand is definitely driven pregnancy.”
– but the category as a whole is enjoying
ACTION POINTS FOR RETAILERS massive growth on the back of huge
TOP TIPS shifts in consumer drinking habits and
perception of such products.
What’s more, the products themselves
“Just as you’d make suggestions have actually changed. The fashion for
on alcoholic drinks, start driving bigger, bolder flavours in full-strength
interested consumers to your no and beers have inspired a new generation of
low ranges. Consider shelf-talkers, brewers to create low-alcohol brews that
signage and in-store promotions deliver more character and body.
that drive trial. For smaller stores, The 0.5% abv specialist Big Drop is
tastings are a great way to dispel just one example, adopting different
any myths about quality and taste. processes from those early Barbicans to
Low and no drinks are a world apart get flavour and body into the beer rather
from how many of us may remember than take it out.
ISTOCK.COM/ MARTIN-DM
them, thankfully.”
JOHN HADINGHAM, ST PETER’S INNOVATIVE TECHNIQUES
Founder and chief executive Rob Fink
“As with any drink sector there is says: “There’s a world of difference
good and bad out there so make sure between what we do – brew to strength
about alcohol-free and low-alcohol beers you try before you buy. Even better, so there’s no extraction of alcohol after
at that time: that they were laughable, get some of your customers to blind the event – versus what other brewers do
pallid imitations of proper beer, even taste some. We’re confident our with, say, their reverse osmosis kits.
the landfill lagers that were increasingly beers will more than stand up. If you “We’ve developed innovative
taking hold of the UK market. can start by offering three or four techniques and turned to ingredients
Nearly four decades of knocking at the differing styles that really deliver that include specialist yeast and grain
door later and low-alcohol and alcohol- on quality, you can then adapt and selection – more than 20 different
free beers appear finally to have made it expand where necessary. A quality varieties – with brewing temperatures
over the threshold from joke category to lager has to be the first concern, then that, well, go against the grain.
become serious contenders for British a weizen and maybe then look at a “We sometimes add lactose which
consumers affections. couple of craft ales.” boosts the mouthfeel and avoids the
In the UK, Barbican has been consigned STEPHAN KOFLER, watery texture that blights many alcohol-
to history – though the brand is still KROMBACHER UK free beers.”
brewed in Dubai and popular in Malaysia Martyn Railton, managing director at
“Take the time to understand what speciality beer importer Euroboozer, says
it is you’re offering your customers. its sales growth in no-low was around
Engage your suppliers in training for 500% in 2018 and that’s accelerated to
your staff and activations for your 650% this year.
customers. Also think about ranging. Railton reports particular success for
We’ve developed innovative These options aren’t ‘diet’ or ‘light’; gluten-free low-alcohol beers from Stiegl
they’re first and foremost for drinking in Austria and a 0.3% range from Mikkeller
techniques and turned to occasions, so they should be treated of Denmark.
ingredients that include as such. Think about milk: full-fat “No and-low alcohol lagers and wheat
and skimmed sit side by side, not in beers have been the early pacesetters but
specialist yeast and grain completely different aisles.” I think we’re seeing different beer styles
selection JAMES GRUNDY, SMALL BEER and abvs now fighting back,” he adds.
“The depth of beers now available
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DEFINITIONS
With the market for lighter abv
drinks diversifying at a rapid pace,
descriptions such as “no-alcohol”,
“alcohol-free” and “low-alcohol”
are often used as if they are
interchangeable.
The Department of Health &
Social Care issued new “descriptors
guidance” in a bid to help consumers
and businesses make sense of this
area in December 2018.
The definitions it lays down are
paraphrased as follows:
n Low-alcohol: 1.2% abv or less
n De-alcoholised: 0.5% abv or less
and only applied to a drink where
the alcohol has been extracted
n Alcohol-free: 0.05% abv or
less where the alcohol has been
extracted
In addition, the term non-alcoholic
shouldn’t be used in conjunction
with a name commonly associated
with an alcoholic drink, hence
Heineken 0.0 is more accurately
alcohol-free than non-alcoholic.
ISTOCK.COM/ TERO VESALAINEN There are exceptions around
spirits which makes the whole
new Seedlip-inspired category a
hot potato and one reason many
brands in it shy away from using
the word “spirit” at all.
In addition, all products,
whichever slot they fall into, are
and the innovation being shown from more on low-strength lagers, particularly required to state their actual abv
brewers is remarkable. alternatives to big brands such as anyway, or that they contain no
“Our range now includes more than 20 Budweiser Prohibition, Peroni Libera, alcohol where they don’t.
different beers and we’re always actively Heineken 0.0 and Beck’s Blue. The new guidance was issued last
on the lookout for others.” Fink at Big Drop says Sainsbury’s recent year and replaced legal definitions
that had been in place since
Its recent deal to represent the Danish pop-up, alcohol-free Clean Vic pub in
1996 under the Food Labelling
brewer To Øl in the UK has brought the London’s Holborn was a sign that multiple Regulations. Effectively, the labels
producer’s 0.4% abv Under The Radar buyers are starting to “get it” more but are now voluntary and offer more
into the fold. thinks independent retailers have been wiggle room for producers, but
“We now have no/low-alcohol wild fruit central to helping the category diversify. local trading standards will use
beers and stouts too,” adds Railton. “This He adds: “At first, I was often met the guidance to “help determine
sort of thought, creativity and innovation with a blank look, even from the compliance” where they believe
around low-alcohol beers has never been most progressive of independent craft labelling is misleading, inaccurate
seen before so it’s a great time to drink beer shops. or unclear.
The quasi-voluntary nature of the
beer, whether you want alcohol or not.” “Now, after just three years, it would be guidance, bending to convention
pretty unimaginable not to have a decent rather than rules, is why some
RISING TO THE CHALLENGE alcohol-free section in a craft beer shop brewers freely move between
There’s little doubt that some and the multiples are playing catch-up the categories even where their
supermarkets’ support for low-alcohol on that. abvs don’t match the prescribed
beer, with dedicated bays and greater “We’ve always aimed to give people definitions. For example, Big Drop
choice, have propelled the category choice so they can still drink whatever calls its 0.5% beer alcohol-free, as
forward over the past five years or so. style of beer they like, whenever they like, does Adnams with its 0.5% version
of Ghost Ship ale.
Railton thinks the low-alcohol rather than being forced down the route
Big Drop’s Rob Fink says:
challenge is now being taken up further of not-so-great-lagers. “There’s a big education piece and,
down the retail food chain. “We’re expanding our range with a whether talking to trade contacts
“When it comes to the big brands, new Golden Ale, available in 50cl bottles, or customers, there are plenty of
the supermarkets are leading the way in and a series of 0.5% abv collaborations myths we like to bust. Alcohol-free
terms of volume, but when it comes to with well-known breweries to broaden doesn’t necessarily mean it has
choice, variety, different beer styles and our craft credentials, so that their to be 0%. An abv of up to 0.5% is
limited-edition beers, independent bottle customers can better understand that the universally acceptable, with plenty
shops and online retailers are doing a alcohol-free label no longer means worty of unlabelled foods having a similar
or higher alcohol content, such as
fantastic job,” he says. or watery.”
ripe bananas and burger buns.”
Multiples’ ranges still tend to focus It’s also just released a quartet
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of collaborations – with Fyne Ales, and make a decision on the low and no-
Fourpure, Harbour and Salt – comprising
a raspberry gose, a black IPA, a hibiscus
alcohol beers of today, not the dross of the
past,” he says.
SMALL BEER
saison and an India pale lager. “While I’m sure many people will still The thirst for lower-strength
Lowlander added a Wit Beer to its prefer a full abv drink, many are realising alternatives to mainstream
alcohol brands has seen a surge in
alcohol-free range of botanically-brewed that they don’t want or can’t afford the
popularity for beers above the 0.5%
beers in the spring, joining American Pale alcohol hit every time. abv low-alcohol cut-off but below
Ale, IPA, Winter IPA and Poorter. “In these scenarios, it was probably the 3% abv level that traditionally
Founder Frederik Kampman says: better before to have a cup of tea or a soft typifies “proper” beer.
“The switch into low/no is being led by drink. Now that is not the case.” One brewer, Small Beer, has even
18 to 24-year-olds. But while the trend Morgenrot, which handles appropriated the generic name for
towards moderation is being led by Krombacher’s UK distribution, launched such products that dates back to
younger consumers it is gaining traction the Dutch brewer Vandestreek’s the 18th century for a range that
Playground Non-Alcoholic IPA this year
comprises 2.7% abv Steam, 2.5%
with the mass market and more affluent
abv Session Pale, 2.1% abv Lager
consumers.” and has now added a raspberry and and 1% abv Dark Lager.
German brewer Krombacher extended blueberry sour beer called Fruit Co-founder James Grundy says:
its UK range this year with the launch of Machine. “We see ourselves as lower-alcohol,
Pils 0.0% and Weizen non-alcoholic in Sales director Graham Archibald which is entirely different to low. In
response to market demand. says interest in it has gone “through our minds, low suggests that the
Stephan Kofler, sales and marketing the roof”. abv is the leading factor for what’s
director of Krombacher UK, concedes He adds: “Let’s be honest, the being served. We prioritise flavour
that some shoppers and retailers might choice when it came to the no first and foremost, and then work
extremely hard to achieve this at a
still need convincing. and low- alcohol category was
sociable strength.”
“I would tell them to give them a try pretty dismal up until three or Surrey brewer Hogs Back has
four years ago. It was almost a opted for 2.8% abv for its mid-
badge of shame buying a no- strength proposition Little Swine
alcohol beer. ale.
“The landscape is massively “The starting point is that I’ve not
different now with some incredible yet tasted a 0.5% beer that offers
Let’s be honest, the choice innovation, meaning the choice in all the flavour,” says chairman
Rupert Thompson.
terms of quality and beer styles on
when it came to the no and offer to consumers is staggering.
“They are getting better,
definitely. But there’s a trade-
low- alcohol category was “The trend for health continues off between living with a decent
to be a big driver of the category
pretty dismal up until three but without the investment from
flavour that isn’t exactly what
you’re looking for, and having less
or four years ago brewers in quality, we would never alcohol.”
be where we are today.”
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ANALYSIS: ALCOHOL-FREE SPIRITS
FUNCTIONALITY IS
and floral flavours; and Joy, a blend of
floral notes and a subtle damiana scent
with a citrus and berry finish.
The drinks have recently been
THE WATCHWORD
launched into the on-trade and
online retail.
Also new for autumn 2019 is Amplify,
which claims to bring “a unique taste and
strong attitude” to the market.
Like traditional spirits Amplify is
distilled and made with ingredients
Spirits without alcohol may appear an odd concept, but producers such as juniper berries, coriander seeds,
are focusing on delivering NPD with ‘benefits’, says Sonya Hook angelica root, lemon peel, lemongrass and
ginseng root. The drink is recommended
T
served with tonic, but it can also be used
he idea of a spirit premium craft spirits and high-quality Alcohol-free spirits as a base for a number of classic cocktail
being “alcohol-free” mixers. These two trends have helped are enhanced by recipes. Amplify has already secured
may not have made cement a rapid consumer acceptance of the use of premium listings in Morrisons stores, priced at £15
sense to consumers a this fledgling category, so much so that mixers a bottle.
few years ago, and since Seedlip first introduced the concept Clare Gibson, marketing director, says:
indeed many are yet to of a spirit without alcohol four years ago, a “Amplify is all about making the most of
discover the concept. huge wave of newcomers has emerged. your experiences. Amplifying your senses
Unlike beer and wine however, alcohol- In this month alone a number of new without the alcohol, which means you
free spirits have the advantage of being products have appeared in this space. are sharper, more in the moment and
just one component in a drink, with Senser Spirits is one of these, and the able to take in your surroundings. It is a
premium mixers working to enhance the brand currently comprises a trio of 0% great-tasting, non-alcoholic alternative
spirit’s flavour profile while also helping to abv “plant spirits” in 50cl bottles, which which appeals to the young at heart who
mask the absence of alcohol. the producer says contains active blends are thirsty for new experiences. Whether
And the rise in consumers drinking of natural botanicals to capture the choosing not to drink or overcome with
more mindfully – and therefore seeking “spirit” of the plants. curiosity, Amplify is always a positive
lower alcohol, lower sugar, cleaner The three in the range are: Power, a choice. The feedback we have had so far
ingredients and sometimes alcohol-free blend of bitter orange, spiced cacao and has been fantastic, so we are really looking
products – has neatly coincided with a vanilla caramel with a smoked black forward to bringing Amplify to a wider
cocktail boom and a growing trend for cardamom finish; Love, which has berries audience as we celebrate our launch.”
022-026 Spirits1 DRN Mindful Nov 2019 SUBBED CORRECTED.indd 22 05/11/2019 15:46You can also read
