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TRENDS, PERSPECTIVE & ANALYSIS • MARCH/APRIL 2020 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION
THE NEW
9TO5
Shoes that
Work Around THE
the Clock
BRANDS
TO WATCH
CHILD’S
PLAY
What Kids Want to
Wear and Parents
Want to Buy
footwearinsight.com
Please contact your local sales representative to preview our Fall 2020 Collection.
FOOTWEAR INSIGHT
®
TRENDS, PERSPECTIVE & ANALYSIS • MARCH/APRIL 2020
footwearinsight.com
Editorial Director
Cara Griffin
Editor-in-Chief
Jennifer Ernst Beaudry
Senior Editor
Bob McGee
Contributors
Nancy Ruhling
Suzanne Blecher
Publisher
Jeff Nott
jnott@formula4media.com
516-305-4711
Advertising
Katie O’Donohue
kodonohue@formula4media.com
828-244-3043
Sam Selvaggio
sselvaggio@formula4media.com
212-398-5021
Ron Stern
rstern@formula4media.com
201-774-2432
Art Director
Francis Klaess
Production / Digital
Brandon Christie
516-305-4710
bchristie@formula4media.com
Formula4Media
®
PO Box 23-1318,
Great Neck , NY 11023
Phone: 516-305-4709
Fax: 516-305-4712
www.formula4media.com
Footwear Insight
Footwear Insight Extra
Outdoor Insight
Team Insight
Team Insight Extra
Textile Insight
Above: Nothing says workplace like loafers
Textile Insight Extra
Trend Insight
and lace-ups, but these fall looks aren’t just
sportstyle all business. Clockwise from top: Patrizia’s
loafer with chunky outsole and hardware
Cover photo and photo right by Frank James
Subscriptions: store.formula4media.com detailing; Propet’s floral embossed leather
One year, $39.00 (U.S. Funds) in the United laceup; Naot’s suede-and-leather slip-on style.
States. All other countries, $89.00 (U.S. Funds).
On the cover: Ankle-height boots make
Footwear Insight is a registered trademark
® the grade. From top: Propet’s cap-toe boot;
of Formula4 Media, LLC. ©2020 All rights Dunham’s chukka style; Rieker’s mixed-
reserved. The opinions expressed by authors and material look with athletic-inspired outsole.
contributors to Footwear Insight are not necessarily
those of the editors or publishers. Footwear Insight
is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts,
14 16 18 20 32 36
photographs or artwork. Articles appearing in
Footwear Insight may not be reproduced in whole
or in part without the express permission of the
publisher. Footwear Insight is published 10 times
in 2020: Jan; Feb; Mar/Apr; May; Jun; Jul; Aug;
BOTH SIDES NOW EASY AS 1-2-3 KEEPING IT REAL THE NEW 9-to-5 TREND INSIGHT LOOKING AHEAD
Sep/Oct; Nov; Dec.
Three stores We break down So what do people When it comes to Our MESH01 survey For more than a
share their winning three trends to really wear on the workday footwear, went to the source century, Michelson’s
Postmaster: Send address changes
formula for impressing watch in workbook job? We asked three these stylish shoes to ask consumers Shoes has thrived by
to Footwear Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318
kids — and their and job site style. professionals. work around the clock. what they’re planning for the future.
Great Neck, NY 11023
discerning parents. buying for work.
TIME OUT | JENNIFER ERNST BEAUDRY
Strange Days
It’s been a chaotic and unnerving time for everyone, or activity-appropriate. Selecting clothes for the
and I know a lot of us are worried — about our day has become the flashpoint for more than one
health, about our businesses, about our custom- pitched battle, so you can imagine the dread I was
ers. The speed at which the COVID-19 crisis has feeling when I realized a few weeks ago that she
unfolded has seemed to accelerate daily, and I had outgrown most of her clothes and shoes, and I
know a lot of you have revised your plans on an would have to present her with replacements just
hourly basis. ripe for being rejected.
We still don’t know what the longer-term impacts Until I had a brainstorm. I pulled a bunch of hang-
of this crisis will be, and I know from the last few ers and our coat rack into the living room, carried
days that I don’t know enough my full-length mirror down from my room and set
to guess. So in the meantime, I up shop. I hung dresses on the coat rack, folded
want to send a bit of a love letter sweaters and skirts on the piano bench, and used
to all the shops I’ve been talking the turntable to set up a shop-in-shop with some
to, following on social media and of my old jewelry, a plant, and a pair of novelty
observing as they rise to this sunglasses. I took the shoes and the sandals and
challenge. merchandised them with looks. Then I took the
I’ve been inspired by the old toddler shopping cart and play cash register
innovative things I’ve seen inde- out of the basement and opened my store.
pendents around the country And it worked. It worked! Getting to “shop” for
doing —deliveries, drop-in, adapt- her own things thrilled her to no end, and she piled
ing their store hours, working her cart high with her new stuff. (Her mother’s
with staff, rescheduling their daughter, I was pleased to see she started with
events, reaching out to those shoes and built her outfits around them.) It was
in need — to keep serving their such a lovely reminder of how much pleasure there
customers while protecting their is in shopping in a store — all the surprises, the
My daughter with her “purchases.”
employees and community. ideas you get, the things you discover. All it was
And that’s good, because we need your stores. missing was that one extra element your stores
I’ve had retail on the mind more so than usual provide: The amazing associates who are there to
lately. And one of the reasons why was brought explain the product, break down the trends, fit the
home the other day when I was trying to solve shoes and fill the need. Thank you for working so
a personal dilemma. My daughter is 4, and has hard to create those experiences, and thank you
strong opinions about what clothes she wears for letting me not just play at it for an afternoon,
and what footwear she wants for the day. And but watch it in action all year round.
as it may not surprise any of you familiar with
4-year-olds to learn, her opinions and my own
don’t always align as to what’s weather-appropriate
4 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2020 footwearinsight.com
THE FOOTWEAR EYE
BUSINESS
Modell’s Will Likely Go Dark
On NYC Landscape
G
otta Go to Mo’s is a 2019, was caused by a number of factors, fortunes of the family business and gener-
phrase that may con- including the annual burden of $95 million in ating cash. Several years before pumping
tinue to ring true in store rent expenses. In early 2019, RBC Capital $6.8 million in personal resources into the
New York City, but con- Markets executed confidentiality agreements operation, lobbying landlords for rent con-
sumers would have far with 14 potential buyers and eight manage- cessions and urging key vendors to provide
fewer places to head ment presentations for possible acquirers. more favorable credit terms, he sold the
for their apparel and The bankrupt business has $288 million in family-controlled, 336,000-sq. ft. distribu-
licensed garb, according to bankruptcy court liabilities and $220 million in assets. Modell’s tion center in the Bronx to an Annapolis,
documents filed in early March. owes it top three unsecured creditors — MD-based logistics firm for $115 million.
Six Modell’s Sporting Goods stores owned Adidas, Nike and Under Armour — $21.5 Terms of that deal require Modell’s to
by non-debtor Henry Modell & Co., a spin-off million in aggregate. vacate the facility before the end of 2020.
controlled by Modell’s CEO Mitchell Modell, Increased competition from big-box and The anticipated cost for Modell’s to equip
are not part of the Chap. 11 bankruptcy filing specialty sporting goods retailers, declining and lease another distribution center is
proceeding and may continue operating in participation in team sports among youth and estimated at $22 million.
some form. Inquiries on their status to the teens and the ongoing consumer migration But by mid-February, faced with few other
Long Island real estate firm handling the away from physical retail stores to online options, Modell’s decided to shrink its store
marketing of 137 Modell’s store leases and shopping were all contributors, according portfolio and commenced closures at 19
to the retailer’s counsel were unanswered to bankruptcy court documents. In 2019, unprofitable locations. The retailer did not
as of press time. Modell’s was hit with modified terms from pay February or March rents on most stores
Since April 2011, Henry Modell & Co. (HMC) key vendors on deliveries due to published and sharply cut back payments to vendors,
has operated under a “shared services” agree- reports about the retailer’s financial stabil- suppliers and service providers due to
ment with the larger Modell’s retail operation ity. And more recently, Modell’s saw its cold reduced liquidity. Some vendors responded
for inventory and other services. The 134-door weather softgood sales sag in Dec. 2019 and by holding back store deliveries. With less
Modell’s business that intends to liquidate Jan. 2020 due to an unseasonably warm winter. than $10 million available under its credit
owed HMC some $40 million as of the March The bankruptcy filing became necessary agreement, Modell’s consultants decided
11 bankruptcy petition date. when negotiations with potential bidder for the business no longer had enough liquidity
The downfall of the Modell’s brick-and- the business fell apart and Modell’s liquidity to continuing operating normally, prompt-
mortar empire, which generated $490 million continued to tighten. Earlier, CEO Modell took ing the March 11 filing of the bankruptcy
in annual sales (46 percent from apparel) in a number of actions aimed at propping up the petition in New Jersey. — By Bob McGee
6 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2020 footwearinsight.com
National Shoe Retailers Association
America’s Largest Organization Representing
Independent Footwear Retailers
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New Benefit! Sales & Management Training
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HYPG
LEIR
THE FOOTWEAR EYE C I
BL
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K
S?P
?
?
Belinda Pina N D ON I T IS
?
T E
Head of Footwear Sales, MICAM Americas I
N I T
DO
TEN TRING
the industry with a lot of credibility. Moving
forward, the way we brand the event will be
I V I
IT I
MICAM Americas alongside MAGIC and Project.
It’s not a neighborhood, it’s not the shoe show
On the heels of February’s announcement at MAGIC, it’s a standalone.” T
VEM
that Informa Markets’ FN Platform show would
be rebranded MICAM Americas under a new What will that look like for August?
partnership with Milan’s longtime MICAM
show, the show announced the departure of
“MICAM has an Alice in Wonderland annual
theme for the shows in 2020 — it’s a fun one. N
longtime head Leslie Gallin. Now with new And the great part of working with them has
P RE
ER
ND HEE
leadership under president Kelly Helfman, been finding out that they’re flexible. They give
MICAM Americas is planning ahead for the
U
us the theme, but they say, what’s best for your
M
August show, set to once again take place under
one roof at the Las Vegas Convention Center. R
business, what’s best for your customer? We
can take a lot of those creative elements and
S
(The show has an agreement that will see the we get to envision them and roll them out on
show staying put, through the Convention our floor. We work in tandem, but we’re going
L E
NK ND
Center’s rennovation, for the next five years.) to run and operate as our own business.”
Footwear Insight caught up with Belinda Pina,
“We’re looking
Head of Footwear Sales, MICAM Americas, to What plans have been set for the show?
TE
NTE
talk about the show’s new identity and what “We’ll be working with MAGIC and getting that
at the big
retailers and brands can expect. crossover so our brands can have exposure
to ready-to-wear retailers in a new way. We’re
picture: The
It’s only been a few weeks since the show’s creating a women’s campus between the North
new identity was announced. What should and Central Halls, with all women’s footwear,
amenities
attendees expect?
“The fun and exciting part is that this is a launch
of a new show — this is not just a rebrand.
clothing and accessories. In the South Hall
on the Lower Level will be all men’s clothing
and footwear. Ultimately, it all comes down A
H EM
people want, We’re looking at the big picture: The ameni-
ties people want, programs to help retailers
to attendees, and bringing opportunities for
new business and major retailers to the fold.”
M
programs to
and take care of them and understanding their
A
CR N
LEG TIO
concerns and needs. It’s a time of construction, Are you anticipating any changes to show
help retailers
and we’re reaching out to everyone to see planning due to the COVID-19 outbreak?
what they need to strengthen our partnership “We’re planning for [the show to go on] — the
P R
R
TE RM U
and take care
and take them to the next level. We’re not just hope being that whatever business oppor-
approaching things as doing them the way tunities some of us may miss in the more
of them and
we’ve always done it. This is a blank canvas immediate two to three months, this will be
E PA
NE
and a fresh start for everybody.” the perfect time to bring everyone together so
understanding K ANT
we can ensure all of our businesses go forward.
PL
What direction have you been getting from Right now, August looks like good timing.” l
A
MICAM?
their concerns “MICAM wants to have a higher profile for the
event on a global scale. Their plain priority is
and needs.” that they have a brand identity that they’ve
C H I L
UTEN
created — a strong one — and a reputation in
8 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2020 footwearinsight.com
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THE FOOTWEAR EYE
Spanish espadrille brand sees opportunity in brick-and-mortar channels
OPPORTUNITY
Viscata Targets the U.S. Market
S
panish espadrille brand couldn’t there be the traditional, casual
Viscata has grown its style everyone wears here?”
business by marrying In that spirit, Morris contracted with
traditional manufacturing local manufacturers to create the hand-
techniques with forward- sewn line.
looking e-tailing and data “We wanted to keep that tradition of
analysis. But to unlock Spanish design and techniques,” he said.
the next step of development, it’s looking For spring, the line will include classic
at brick-and-mortar. looks in flats, wedges of varying heights
Thomas Morris, co-founder of the and ankle-tie styles in canvas, leather and
Barcelona-based brand, said that Viscata suede, but will also include white-soled
has been selling 80,000 pairs a year through and get people to know about the brand,” bottoms with a more modern athletic
their e-commerce operation. (The com- Morris said. look, as well as tie-dye upper prints and
pany has a U.S. base in San Diego that Morris founded the brand in 2009 as multicolored jute bottoms. Prices for
includes distribution, as well as a DC in a hobby, he said, and while sales grew the line range from $90 to $165, with the
New Jersey.) Those sales have given the consistently, it wasn’t until 2016 that he majority between $100 and $130.
brand both the base from which to grow, quit his day job for a final time to focus Morris said he’s excited to show new
and a wealth of consumer data it has used on the line. He was inspired, he said, by accounts the line — as well as the consumer
to expand the spring line with new styles the style of his adopted home city. feedback that accompanies it.
and colors that meet what shoppers are “Espadrilles are the shoes that every- “We think this is the right story: It’s
looking for. body wears here,” he said. “The ones made in Spain, it’s a premium product but
“Now that we’re really getting into fash- people wear in the States are a little fan- it’s not luxury pricing,” he said.
ion, we want to plant a seeds in the U.S. cier, more embellished. I thought, why — By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry
SOURCING
Three Questions with... Elias Gröndal
E
lias Gröndal is the reasonable and a good match. This is basi- resumption. With
founder and CEO of cally the same as it’s been done for 2,000 that delay comes a
Findsourcing.com, an years. Our ambition is to introduce a more backlog where sup-
online B2B platform for fact- driven sourcing process with bigger pliers can only focus
footwear sourcing. An transparency. ” on orders, samples
industry veteran — he and future orders,
spent eight years with Do you see the site having an educational and newer clients are
the H&M Group on the sourcing side — or open-source approach to the Industry? put on lower prior-
here Gröndal sounds off on where he sees “We have a Knowledge Bank [section on ity. Also, the fact
the supply chain evolving and COVID-19. the site] introducing basic concepts in the that China is a major
industry. Personally, I’ve been inspired by source component
What is Findsourcing.com? Why did you the open source movement in the [footwear] hub will cause a ripple effect in other parts
decide to create it? industry. Open collaboration is the foun- of the world with delays across Europe, for
“It is an online platform for finding footwear dation, the belief that sharing will further instance, where manufacturers are importing.
suppliers: We have more than 1,700 for develop great new possibilities. This is exactly Also, sales, of course. There will be pretty big
footwear. The whole ambition is for buyers what we’re doing with Findsourcing.com.” consequences from this.” —By Bob McGee
to make educated decisions in the sourcing
process. Production partners are crucial to How do you see the COVID-19 global pan-
the success of any brand. But it’s extremely demic impacting the global supply chain?
random today how brands connect with their “I see a massive impact in a multitude of
production partners — contacts through ways. For production in China, a lot of fac- For more, listen to the Footwear Insight
their network or at a trade fair going booth tories closed there or delayed opening after Extra podcast with Elias Gröndal on
to booth, happy to find someone who seems the Chinese New Year, delaying production FootwearInsightExtra.com
10 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2020 footwearinsight.comTHE FOOTWEAR EYE
BRAND LAUNCH
Spring Launch Pad: Halsa
The
$139.95
Aloe and
$159.95
Melania
will deliver
this fall.
B
orn out of the professional broader consumer. A tight line of sandals, bial protection. (Halsa is so bullish on the
market and designed for Maryjanes and boots that all feature deep insole that they’re offering it as a stand-
the independent chan- heel cups, classic shapes and leather uppers alone aftermarket insole as well at $69.)
nel, Halsa Footwear is debuted this February at more than 100 And under VP of sales, foowear veteran
betting that it offers accounts, including The Walking Co. and Tony Adams, who is heading up the U.S.
something better for Kenosha, WI’s Chiapetta Shoes. Prices for sales effort from the brand’s San Diego
both consumers and the line run from $119 to $139 for sandals headquarters, Halsa is focusing all its ener-
retailers this spring. and Maryjanes, with boots retailing from gies on brick-and-mortar independents. To
The women’s fashion comfort brand is $160 to $180, and all styles are built with stand out in a crowded field, the brand is
a creation of parent company Suecos, a the brand’s ergonomic removable footbed, priced with margins of 57.5 to 60 percent,
Spanish brand with deep expertise in the which weds carbon fiber construction for has a robust in-stock program and offers
work and nursing business who wanted to stability and proper position with silver drop-ship to its independent customers.
bring that focus on fit and support to the and copper elements that offer antimicro- See more from Halsa on page 21. l
footwearinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 11THE FOOTWEAR EYE
MADE IN AMERICA
Reinventing
Made In America
With Clover &
Cobbler, Jaclyn
Jones is making
the factory she
couldn’t find.
Clover & Cobbler’s artisans work out of the
brand’s reimagined Los Angeles factory.
W
hen Jaclyn Jones three in-house lines — Jaclyn Jones USA, designers who aren’t at the manufacturing
wanted to launch Salpy, and Californians, which launched this stage yet with local consultants.
her namesake spring — and produces product for 10 to 15 Jones said it’s a direct response to her own
brand in 2015, private label lines at any given time in the experience.
finding a factory 20,000-square-foot factory space it opened in “I had made all the designs, but there was
in the U.S. who 2018. A showroom on the factory floor is set no information about how to take the next
would take her up for meetings, line reviews and conferences, step. I looked heavily for six months — I had
on was no easy feat. Five years later, not and features swatch wall and samples from quit my job, and this was 100 percent my day
only does she manufacture Jaclyn Jones USA local resources the factory uses and recom- job and my night job,” she said.
domestically, she owns the factory that makes mends. And Jones and chief production officer While L.A. has a number of operating foot-
it. And at Clover & Cobbler, she’s determined Kim Thomas keep it in use: Jones said she wear factories ranging from small garage
to make American manufacturing simpler, more company fields so many calls and messages factories to big European-style operations,
sustainable and more accessible to designers from aspiring designers, manufacturers and she said, “the factories I did find mostly made
and retailers than ever. stores looking to create in-house brands that their own brand and didn’t do private label,
Located in the Van Nuys neighborhood in they’ve set up a formal interview process to or they had big minimums.” Eventually she
Los Angeles, today Clover & Cobbler makes triage potential clients, as well as to connect connected with Thomas, who at the time
12 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2020 footwearinsight.comTHE FOOTWEAR EYE
was a consultant specializing in Made in the “A lot of people come to us and expect to
USA product. Even still, Jones said, she had make shoes that retail for $30, and that’s not
work with two smaller factories — one that realistic,” she said. It’s not apples-to-apples
did pattern-making and another specialized with overseas costs, she said: “With the [lower]
in making hand-carved wooden heels and price per shoe, you’ll also have to pay ship-
could do outselling and assembly — to create ping and customs, and [account] for the time
her shoes. you’re losing on your timelines.”
It was the second factory — International The offering has clearly struck a nerve.
Last, owned by Salpy and Kevork Kaladjian — Jones said business has grown steadily, with
that would eventually change her plans. After increases in people looking for vegan and
working closely together on Jaclyn Jones USA sustainable options especially. And Jones
and on Salpy Kaladjian’s namesake line, the said she sees further growth opportunities
Kaladjians asked Jones if she’d be willing to for boutiques.
buy both the factory and the line. They were Some of the business coming her way is the
Owner Jaclyn Jones, left, in the showroom.
looking to step back, and while they’d been fact that she — unlike the factories she once
approached by bigger labels and Chinese Jones said, operations are geared to give new tried to find — is active online, she said. She
factories, they wanted the factory and what brands the services they need. thinks there’s a cultural shift that’s driving
they considered a family of workers to be in “We have zero minimums so new brands people to seek her out online.
the hands of someone who wanted to run it, can start out,” she said. “We keep the pricing “We’re in a certain economy where every-
not just acquire its assets and contacts. But in short breaks so they can decide what they one wants to be an entrepreneur and can be
after initially saying no, Jones said, she started want to do.” a entrepreneur,” she said. “That movement
to see the potential. Jones said part of the job is walking prospec- within the younger generation empowers a
“I was saying, ‘I don’t know how to run a tive clients through what the pricing means. lot of people to try it out.” l
factory!’ But then I thought, I’m in here every
day, and I do know how — and on top of that,
I see all the things that could be done better,”
she said.
Enticed by the rare chance to pair a fresh
start with the benefits of an existing business,
Jones began the transition leading up to the
October 2018 purchase, leasing a new factory
space 15 minutes from the old location and
stripping down all the old equipment to be
cleaned and tuned up. (Having the factory
floor be an inspiring, creative, feminine place
was important to her, Jones said: when the
time came to re-enamel the machines, she
had it done in teal.)
The new space allowed for changes that
better fit her vision of what a modern, forward-
looking American Made production facility
could be. She transitioned all product to use
water-based adhesives to improve both sus-
tainability and workers’ health, and installed
$50,000 worth of dust collection and air filtra-
tion systems for the same reasons. She also
reset the layout, creating true production
lines that product could flow through with
carts that could follow any given collection
through the whole process.
Today at Clover & Cobbler — she changed
the name when she acquired the business —
Jones and Thomas, as well as Salpy Kaladjian
and marketing and sales people, work out of
the office, with 23 workers on the floor — half
of whom, including the three floor supervisors,
are women. “They’re artisans doing their
craft,” Jones said. They offer full-service line
development, lasting and production. And,
footwearinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 13KIDS RETAIL
Both
Michelson’s Shoes
Eric Michelson, Owner
Lexington, MA
Michelson’s Shoes is a fourth-generation
family-owned firm with two locations. [Ed
Note: For more on Michaelson’s, see our
Sides
profile on page 36.] Kids offerings include
Stride Rite, Merrell, Sperry, Nina, Plae,
Saucony, New Balance, Under Armour,
Adidas, Pediped, Teva, Keen, Crocs, Native
and Kamik. “We have a great reputation
on parent forums and many come here for
their first walkers,” owner Eric Michelson
said.
What are parents looking for? “Customers
Now
come to us for a proper fit and the expectation
of quality products. The starting point to every
sale is measuring both feet,” Michelson said.
Savvy kids shoe retailers know how to make kids and parents both smile. Is there a magic price point? “Most [parents]
will pay a little more for quality features.
Our merchandise mix is primarily moderate
price points. Parents expect our products to
last — and will complain if they didn’t get the
expected time out of their shoes,” he said.
How many pairs do most parents buy at a
time? “Most will buy one pair per child at
a time because feet grow,” he said. “Today,
they’ll buy sneakers for everyday use, later
get a pair for a special event, then once
By Suzanne Blecher the warm weather hits, get sandals. When
we sell multiple pairs, it tends to be an
everyday pair plus a special event pair or
Serving the kids market can be tough. seasonal item.”
What style elements are hot? It all depends
And it’s not just that the stock demands are high on age, Michelson said. “The most sought-
(all those sizes!), margins thin and the market after feature is the BOA crank closure for
boys and girls ages 7 years and up. It’s easier
competitive — although all those things can be true. to use than laces and not as youthful as
Velcro. Lights are still popular. Girls 4 to 7
Kids stores have two different sets of customers to years old like shimmer and glitter. Boys like
a touch of pop color — lime, red, orange —
impress: Style-conscious kids, and their features with navy, black, or grey. Girls go for pinks
(and price) obsessed parents. Kids want glitter
and lights; parents want quality leathers, podiatrist
approval, spot-on style and fantastic fit – all in one
shoe. So what does it take to make everybody
happy with shoes that kids actually want to
wear, day after day? We asked three children’s
footwear shops to give us the inside scoop on
what kids and their grown-ups are asking for.
Here’s how they put together a winning package. Michelson’s Shoes
14 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2020 footwearinsight.comand purples, but we also do a lot with sneak- ers that are blue or purple and specifically don’t have any pink.” Which features resonate most with par- ents? “Parents want the shoes to do as much as possible. Waterproof is a require- ment for hiking and winter boots,” he said. “Parents appreciate that we carry extended widths so that their children get a proper fit.” Fit To Be Tied Lori Martin, Owner West Des Moines, Iowa Lori Martin opened Fit To Be Tied in the Valley West Mall almost seven years ago, initially as an exclusive Stride Rite retailer. While she still carries the brand, nowadays New Balance, Asics, Saucony, Chaco, Keen, Native, See Kai Run, Toms and Merrell also fill shoe walls. “We are the only ‘just kids’ shoe store in Iowa, and we carry all Fit To Be Tied widths, so we get customers from Omaha, Kansas City and other surrounding areas,” while, they want something machine wash- time? “Most people buy two pairs at a time, Martin said. The store, she added, also able or with a more flexible sole. Parents typically a day-to-day sneaker and then in gets referrals from local podiatrists, since are very trusting of us and just want a good the fall, a boot. In the spring, it’s a sandal they can fit kids with braces.“Parents come quality shoe,” she said. with the sneaker.” in because they know they won’t have to What style elements are hot? “For younger do a thing on their own,” she said. “We The Perfect Fit girls, light up with an underlying theme handle it.” Lindsay Miller, Owner of unicorns or mermaids is popular. For What are parents looking for? “Parents Parker, Colorado younger boys, it is light up with fun colors. want a good fit for their kids. They want Older boys gravitate more towards a clean- growing room in a good quality shoe,” In the two-and-a-half years that the store has cut, versatile sneaker. Older girls tend to go Martin said. “Their kids have to like the been open, owner Lindsay Miller has seen for whatever the current trends are, such as shoe when it’s on.” parents drawn to her shop for its expertise in shimmer and glitter, while still maintaining a Is there a magic price point? “I’d say our fitting kids. “It also helps that we price match clean and classic look.” average price is $50, [but] if the shoe fits every day in store from the major brand Which features resonate most with parents? very well, at $75, the parent won’t say no,” websites,” she added. The Perfect Fit carries “Waterproof, memory foam, reinforced toes, she said — parents know the increase in brands including Stride Rite, See Kai Run, and flexibility of the shoe are always the price will give them a shoe that isn’t going New Balance, Skechers, Keds, Keen, Merrell, go-to things for parents,” she said. “Again, it to wear out. That being said, a bargain Pediped, Bobux, Tsukihoshi, Saucony, Billy goes back to something that is comfortable is attractive. “We do have parents that Footwear, Plae and Under Armour, as well as and durable.” l will just shop our sale tables because they about 20 brands that are seasonal options. know that we have good quality shoes on What are parents looking for? “Price and sale,” says Martin. sustainability would be the biggest elements How many pairs do most parents buy at that we are seeing a trend in, however, our a time? “Most buy one shoe. We are not in customers look for a little bit of everything. a high-end mall.” We stand behind our products knowing that What style elements are hot? “Girls want kids are hard on shoes. We look for shoes glitter. Boys like lights. Girls like rainbows. that offer a variety of elements so that when Boys are simple: On Saturdays, our store they come into the store, we can offer them is like a racetrack with kids running around exactly what they are looking for,” Miller with shoes that are ‘fast.’” said. Which features resonate most with par- Is there a magic price point? “There is not,” ents? “Especially in the winter, parents she said. “We trust the brands that we carry want waterproof shoes. A lot of boy moms for what they set the price at for the value want a more durable shoe where they of the shoe.” won’t blow out the toes. Every once in a How many pairs do most parents buy at a The Perfect Fit footwearinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 15
EASY AS WORK By Cara Griffin
THREE TRENDS TO WATCH IN “ON THE JOB” STYLE.
1. Demand for Thorogood’s Made in USA product has been a “huge part
of the brand’s business for quite some time with union tradespeople,”
according to Bianca Boettcher, marketing manager for Thorogood. She
notes that Thorogood is seeing enough demand for its USA-made products
that the brand has invested in an additional factory (in Maine) to increase
production of its domestic product while still keeping its two Wisconsin
factories at full capacity.
About 80 percent of the brand’s products are made domestically, while
its imported product is “designed to meet certain pricepoints, and allows us
1. MADE IN THE USA to work with factories on more technical designs and constructions,” says
Boettcher.
Styles in the brand’s American Heritage line, such as its Moc Toe
leather boots, not only boast USA-made cred, but also combine style
with performance and safety benefits. Made to be worn on-the-clock or
off, Thorogood’s American Heritage 6” Black Moc Toe Maxwear Wedge
boots, made in Wisconsin, feature a removable shock-absorbing footbed,
a fiberglass shank, a slip-resistant outsole and Goodyear storm welt
construction. l
Thorogood American Heritage 6” Black Moc Toe Maxwear Wedge
2. Wolverine-owned brand Hytest has designed a
collection of work boots around the concept of comfort
on the job, and the line has a name that reflects that
aim. The Hytest FootRests collection of industrial boots
are designed to deliver grip protection, enhanced
breathability, support and comfort. The Mission Nano
Toe 6” Zipper Boot and the Tread Nano Toe 6” Hiker
feature lightweight Xergy anti-fatigue foam midsoles
to absorb shock and return energy, as well as rubber
outsoles that are oil-and slip-resistant for safety.
The FootRests 2.0 Tread Hiker also features abrasion
resistant TecTuff material and a nano, non-metallic 3. LIGHTWEIGHT STYLE
safety toe, while the FootRests 2.0 Mission Zipper Boot
is an athletic-inspired duty boot that’s uniform-ready
and features lightweight and breathable fabric with Red Wing Zero-G Lite Chukka
minimal seams. 3. Red Wing Shoe Co. has launched what it says is its lightest work
Karry Johnson, VP and GM of Hytest, says the brand is collection yet, the Zero-G Lite family of “next-gen work shoes.”
dedicated to equipping workers with “the resources they Red Wing’s Zero-G Lite styles are designed for light-duty industrial jobs
need to get the job done — from the boots on their feet such as warehouse, distribution, light manufacturing, service and office-to-
to the expert safety knowledge and service we deliver.” l floor roles. Modern, casual and super lightweight, styles in the collection are
meant to deliver all-day comfort for workers who are on their feet continu-
Hytest Tread Nano ously — both on the job and outside of work.
Toe 6” Hiker “Our customers expect their workwear to have the same style and com-
fort as any shoe they would wear off the job site,” says Kristin Hamilton,
senior product merchandising manager at Red Wing. “Red Wing designed
the Zero-G Lite collection to perform like a work shoe while offering modern
style and all-day comfort. This allows our customers to seamlessly transition
between work, home and anything in-between.”
Zero-G Lite styles range in weight from a low 11.7 ounces to 14.2 ounces
for a single shoe. Other key features include: outsoles that offer slip resis-
tance as well as oil, gas and chemical resistance; EVA footbeds; premium
2. COMFORT ON THE JOB full-grain leather uppers; and safety protection in select styles with low-
profile aluminum safety toes. l
16 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2020 footwearinsight.comWORKPLACE STYLE
By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry and Cara Griffin
Keeping it Real
Mike DeBonis, 37 We asked and what are the top shoes in your and ties, nothing too trendy or cut too
Congressional Reporter for the three work rotation? trimly. Hill reporters are not known for
Washington Post, Washington, D.C. consumers I have two pairs of good shoes, one their fashion forwardness, and I am not
with very brown and one black to go with my breaking the mold.
What is the dress code in your different suits. My brown pair is a Johnston and
workplace? 9-to-5 jobs Murphy cap-toe. I’ve had these for three Denine M. Pezone, 55
I work in one of the most conservative to give us years, and they have this nice, fairly Business Strategist, Self-Employed,
fashion environments that still exists durable rubber sole. And I found this Charlotte, NC
insight on
outside of maybe a law firm. So if I’m very nice black Oxford by Ecco — it’s
the shoes
at the Capitol, I’m in a suit and tie and all business shoe from the top but it has What is the dress code in your
they wear
dress shoes pretty much every day I’m a very nice cushiony rubber sole. And workplace?
there. I’m also an observer of members
for work if I’m in the newsroom where nobody Business casual.
of Congress’ footwear, and in the last
and why they cares, I have any number of trashy What is a typical work day like for you?
year to two years, there’s been a lot
wear what sneakers that I will wear with anything. I work from a home office, but frequently
more men wearing nice-looking sneakers they do. How much do you spend on work shoes? meet clients and customers during the
with suits — they can get away with I’ll spend $100 to $200 — I’m not in day. I usually will take a break at some
it, but we can’t. People might wear Allen Edmonds or Ferragamo territory, point during the day to take a walk and
disgusting, beat-to-hell shoes, but although I should think about making get lunch or just get some fresh air. I
they’re dressy beat-to-hell shoes. my next purchase a nice one. My travel a good deal so, I am in and out
What is a typical work day like for you? general philosophy is buy good shoes of airports a lot.
Sheer steps are an issue. You’re walking and take care of them: I use shoe trees Describe the footwear you wear for
a lot, and 10,000 step days are not religiously, I shine my own shoes, I use work.
unusual. And there are hard floors this moisturizing cream a couple times I wear heels or boots for “work” and
everywhere — marble, tile. There’s a year, and every month or so give it dress. When I need to walk to a meeting,
some carpet in the building, but it’s the old once-over with the old Lincoln I may wear a pair of casual shoes to the
not ever where I stand. When I first Wax. I have to get new heels put on my meeting and then change into business
came here, I was in a carpeted office or shoes every 9 months or so, and I’ve appropriate shoes before I meet with
covering city hall, and at the time I had changed insoles on both of my shoes clients or customers. For work shoes,
a pair of nice leather-soled Johnston multiple times. the most important attributes are fit
and Murphy oxfords. But when I started Where do you buy your shoes for work? and style. For casual work shoes, fit
covering the Capitol, leather soles were I’m always looking around for a and style are the priorities.
out of the picture. quality pair of shoes at a good price How many different pairs of shoes do
How many different pairs of shoes do at a Nordstrom Rack or Johnston you have in rotation to wear for work
you have in rotation to wear for work and Murphy store or similar. and what are the top shoes in your
When you buy work shoes, are you work rotation?
buying them for work only, or do you I have roughly 20 to 30 pairs of shoes
buy them planning to wear them for that I rotate for work. The style I wear
outside of work occasions as well? will depend on the meetings or events
The shoes I wear to work I also tend to that I attend. If the meeting requires
wear to nicer social occasions. heels, I have a range of pumps from
What could brands do better when Kate Spade, Prada and Jimmy Choo.
designing the type of shoes you need For a more casual environment, I will
for work? wear Stuart Weitzman or Sam Edelman.
Sometimes it can be hard to find a The top three work shoes in my current
dressy, suit-appropriate shoe with a rotation are Cole Hahn boots, Rag &
comfortable sole that isn’t too chunky, Bone booties and Donald Pliner wedges.
“My general but feel like that has gotten easier over Boots are my favorite work style. They
philosophy the past 5 years or so. are usually most comfortable and I can
is buy good How do you describe your personal wear them from work to evening. They
shoes and style — and how important are your are stylish and easy to travel in.
take care of shoes to that look? How much do you spend on work shoes?
them.” American Professional Guy: neat suits in Between $100 to $600 per pair.
Mike DeBonis basic colors, fairly conservative shirts Where do you buy your shoes for work?
18 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2020 footwearinsight.comFor work button-down shirt. I can even get away try on the shoe in person. I live near a
shoes, with a [university-branded] sweatshirt. couple malls, so I’ll find a Clarks store
In terms of footwear, any closed toe or go to a Macy’s, and I’ll shop in a Foot
the most
shoe is OK. No flip-flops. No work boots. Locker or a Champs. I don’t buy online. I
important
What is a typical work day like for you? don’t want to deal with having to return
attributes
The workday depends on whether I have something if the footwear doesn’t fit.
are fit and a game, which sport it is and whether What could brands do better when
style. For it’s taking place inside or outside. For designing the type of shoes you need
casual example, this Friday I’ll wear sneakers for work?
shoes that I to the office to start the day and I’ll So much about shoes these days has
would wear bring a change of clothes and shoes become a fashion element. Companies
between for the basketball game I’m working in are now giving lots of options with
meetings, the evening. If there’s no athletic event colors and styles. Our job is not about
conferences that day, there’s a decent amount of being fashion-forward. As long as it’s a
or travel — physical tasks and activity – setting comfortable shoe, I’m fine with it.
comfort, fit up for games or stuff to do around the How do you describe your personal
and style facilities. There’s not a lot of sitting still. style — and how important are your
are the Describe the footwear you wear for shoes to that look?
Department or specialty stores: I like to priorities. work. My personal style is relaxed comfort.
try on my shoes. However, I have also Denine M. Pezone About 60 percent of the time I’m in How my wardrobe comes together is not
made some purchases online. sneakers. Otherwise, I wear a boat a big priority. On basketball game days
When you buy work shoes, are you shoe or a desert boot and sometimes a I’ll wear something closer to an actual
buying them for work only, or do you dress shoe for meetings or for when I’m business outfit of a nice buttondown
buy them planning to wear them for working a game inside. Comfort is a high shirt, tie and dress pants, and my dress
outside of work occasions as well? priority, because we are fairly active shoes. But in general, I’m wearing a polo,
I buy shoes because I love shoes. Then during our workday and I want my feet khaki and sneakers. No one is walking
I figure out where I will wear them! comfortable. A more comfortable shoe around the athletic department wearing
What could brands do better when makes for a better work experience. some exotic footwear. Our department
designing the type of shoes you need Waterproofing is fine for outside but is not overly concerned with fashion and
for work? I’ll wear a better sock underneath to trends. Socks are actually an important
Footwear could better reflect trends help keep my feet dry. component that relates to my footwear.
that we see today in athleisure and How many different pairs of shoes do For working hockey games, I’ll wear a
be more varied and appropriate for you have in rotation to wear for work wool sock because I’m in an ice rink,
multiple uses such as going from the and what are the top shoes in your whereas for a football game in the cold
gym to casual to dress. work rotation? weather, I’ll put on a thicker sock and a
How do you describe your personal I have seven or eight shoes in rotation. sock with a good cushioning since I’m on
style — and how important are your My top three types of shoes are my feet for eight hours. For basketball
shoes to that look? basketball or running sneakers, business I like my Stance socks: they’re fun but
Shoes are one of the most important casual styles and a typical dress shoe. not outwardly showy. l
aspects of my wardrobe! My style Right now I’m wearing a grey Nike Air
tends to be more fashion-forward. I Zoom Pegasus 36 sneaker. I also have
follow runway trends and launches a couple pair of Clarks desert boots in
of the luxury brands and often rotation — one is blue suede and the
buy what is currently being shown other is brown suede. They stand out
in that season. I still like to dress Comfort is a a little bit but they’re not as flashy. And
up to go to work. I love a great high priority, I have a Calvin Klein dress shoe that is
pair of wool pants, a cashmere because we a black leather laceup.
sweater and a pair of boots. These are fairly How much do you spend on work shoes?
are staples in my wardrobe. active during If I’m spending on a nicer, dressier
our workday business-type shoe, I’ll spend $150
Will Stitilis, 26 and I want tops — and less is better. I don’t want
Assistant Director Marketing & my feet to break the bank.
Community Relations, Princeton comfortable. Where do you buy your shoes for work?
University Athletics, Princeton, NJ A more I don’t have to buy my Nike sneakers,
comfortable which is a very nice perk of my job. [Ed.
What is the dress code in your shoe makes Note: Princeton’s Athletic Department is
workplace? for a better sponsored by Nike.] But for my other
There is no official dress code, but work shoes, most often I look online first
business casual is generally accepted. experience. to see what I like and then I’ll go to
A polo and khakis is fine, or khakis and Will Stitilis a store to buy the footwear. I like to
footwearinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 19The
New
to
Shoes That
Work Around
the Clock
By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry / What to wear to the office? Anything you want. When it comes to workday footwear, the
only rules are what looks good — and keep you comfortable for a day doing it all. These fall ’20 styles run the gamut:
sleek boots and booties, animal prints of all species, sneakers, loafers and everything in between. What do they have
in common? Dialed-up comfort and sharp looks. Trust them: They’re Professionals. / Photography by Frank James
20 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2020 footwearinsight.comStacked heel booties are a smart choice for office-to- after style. Sleek silhouettes, luxe materials and Western embellishments are at home anywhere you take them. From top: Blowfish’s double-zipper boot with ruched vamp; Halsa’s mixed-material look with buckle; metallic bootie with back zip from Chocolat Blu.
These iconic leather boots for him and her are comfort workhorses that will carry you through the day without breaking a sweat. The fact that they’re eye-catching styles in refreshingly just- south-of-expected colors is the icing on the cake. From Left: Dansko’s clog boot with buckle detail for women; Timberland’s heritage leather 4-eye boot for men.
Are leopard and tiger the new neutrals?? We say yes. A more casual workplace means a chance to get wild, and these next-level sneakers have animal attraction to spare. From top: Multitextured sneaker with removable insole from Remonte; patent and leather throwback running look from Geox; Earth’s tiger stripe knit slip-on.
For a go-with-it-all look, you can’t beat the classic Chelsea boot in two classic twin-gore colorways. Stylish and sophisticated, it’s man’s best bet Monday through Friday, and Saturday and Sunday too. From left: Burnished leather boot from Spring; Waterproof ankle boot in deep brown from Rieker.
Fresh takes on snakeskin in cool colors elevate any outfit — at any heel height. Pick your poison: These styles are the antidote to boring looks. From top: Vionic’s sleek smoking style; Lifestride’s round-toe ballet flat; Fly London’s chunky-heeled pump.
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