Cosmetics: too many substances of concern - WECF France
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BB creams, concealers, mascaras
Cosmetics: too many
substances of concern
Be cautious, especially if
pregnant
Executive summary
© iStock photo
After children’s sunscreens and baby cosmetics, Wecf France releases a survey on cosmetic products.
We made the choice of 3 categories of make-up products, which many women use everyday, and
whose use has not decreased during the Covid-19 pandemic: BB creams, concealers and mascaras.
Despite an extensive regulation at EU level, are these products always free from ingredients
of potential concern for human health, especially pregnant women, known to be particularly
vulnerable?
In May 2021, we purchased 17 BB creams, 15 concealers and 15 mascaras, sold in supermarkets,
perfume stores, drugstores and organic shops. We investigated the ingredients of the 47 products
and surveyed the labels looking for substances of concern for human health and/or ecosystems.
Based on existing scientific literature, we identified 37 substances of concern, including endocrine
disruptors, persistent and bioaccumulative substances, nanoparticles or allergens. We also identified
50 plastic ingredients in a huge number of the 47 products.
We classified the 37 substances of concern in 3 categories: of very high concern, of high concern and
of moderate concern:
of very high
13 substances of very high concern: scientific consensus for classification or known major
concern hazards for human/animal health (CMR, endocrine disruptors, PBT, neurotoxic or with
equivalent levels of concern).
of high 9 substances of high concern: contact allergens, CMR, PBT or suspected EDCs but for which
concern
doubts still exist on classification, and which trigger a precautionary approach.
of moderate
15 substances of moderate concern: trigger harmful consequences for ecosystems or
concern potential risks for allergy, but where existing data require more investigation.
The full report (in French), with a detailed description of each ingredient of concern, is available on:
www.wecf-france.org
2l
teinte 12
AVENE
BB crème
BB crème
JONZAC
Teint divin
teinte nude
CLARINS
teinte claire
Light SPF 30
GARNIER
peaux mates
SPF30 fair 01
CAUDALIE
BOURJOIS
Crème teintée
ERBORIAN
éclat peau nue
teinte medium
Korean Formula
tout en 1 FPS 15
BB crème 6 actions
BB skin Detox Fluide
Hydrance BB-Légère
peau parfaite SPF 10
THE BODY SHOP
Healthy Mix BB Cream
BB creams
Crème teintée minérale
SPF 25 - teinte medium
Effet transparent 5-en-1
BB crème soin perfecteur
COULEUR CARAMEL
anti-fatigue - teinte foncée
Purchased at*
MB 2
PH 7
MB 3
PH 6
GS 7
PH 6
GS 12
P 11
P 10
Number of ingredients of concern
●
Benzyl salicylate
●●
●
●
BHT
●
●
Butylphényl methylpropional
●
Cyclomethicone
●
Cyclohexasiloxane
●
●
Cyclopentasiloxane
●
Dioxyde de titane [nano]
●
●●
●●
●
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Our results: the 47
Ethylparaben
Methylparaben
●
Octocrylene
Zinc oxide [nano]
●●
●
●
●
Phenoxyethanol
products of our survey
●●
●
Benzyl alcohol
●
Bis-EthylhexyloxyphenolMethoxyphenylTriazine
CI 77266 Black 2 [nano]
●
ButylMethoxydibenzoylmethane(Avobenzone)
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
● Dioxyde de titane ou CI 77891**
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl
●● ● ●
Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT)
Silica [nano]
●
●
Talc
●
Benzyl benzoate
●
●
Chlorphenesin
●
Citral
●
Citronellol
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
Drometrizole Trisiloxane
Substances of high concern
Brands in alphabetical order
Ethylhexyl salicylate
Substances of very high concern
Ethylhexyl triazone
Substances of moderate concern
●
Eugenol
●
Geraniol
Hexyl cinnamal
Limonene
Linalool
●
● ● ●
●
●● ● ●
● ●
●
●
●
Parfum/fragrance
Cosmetics: too many substances of concern
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
●
●
●
●
●
●
plastic ingredients
Cosmetics: too many substances of concern
Brands in alphabetical order
Substances of very high concern
Substances of high concern
Substances of moderate concern
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol MethoxyphenylTriazine
ButylMethoxydibenzoylmethane(Avobenzone)
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
Number of ingredients of concern
Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT)
Dioxyde de titane ou CI 77891**
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Butylphényl methylpropional
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl
Dioxyde de titane [nano]
Drometrizole Trisiloxane
CI 77266 Black 2 [nano]
Ethylhexyl salicylate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Ethylhexyl triazone
Cyclohexasiloxane
plastic ingredients
Parfum/fragrance
Zinc oxide [nano]
Benzyl benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl salicylate
Cyclomethicone
Hexyl cinnamal
Methylparaben
Chlorphenesin
Benzyl alcohol
Purchased at*
Ethylparaben
Octocrylene
Silica [nano]
Citronellol
Limonene
Geraniol
Eugenol
Linalool
Citral
BHT
Talc
KIKO
Konscious Vegan P 3 ● ● ● ●
BB Mousse - teinte 05
MELVITA
Nectar de roses
BB crème MB 6 ●● ● ● ● ●
SPF15
teinte rose des sables
NIVEA
BB crème 5 en 1
Hydratation 24H
GS 12 ● ●●● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
FPS 15 - teinte medium
L'OREAL
BB C'est magic
perfecteur de teint 5 en 1
GS 7 ●● ● ● ● ● ● ●
teinte medium foncé
RIMMEL
BB cream beauty balm
Medium 9 en 1 SPF15
GS 13 ●● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●●● ● ● ●
teinte 002
LA ROCHE POSAY
BB crème PH 9 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●● ●
Hydreane SPF 20
teinte medium
SO'BIO ETIC
(Lea Nature)
BB crème perfectrice
GS 7 ● ●● ● ● ● ●
teinte medium
URIAGE
Roséliane
CC Cream
PH 10 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●● ● ●
SPF 30 - teinte universelle
* MB = organic shop - GS = supermarket - PH = drugstore - P = perfume store
** According to tests performed by the French market surveillance authorities (DGCCRF), titanium dioxide not labelled as [nano] often proves to
be made of nanoparticles. If we had performed such tests as part of our survey, showing the presence of [nano] titanium dioxide, we would have
indicated them as being of very high concern in the tables above.
l3Cosmetics: too many substances of concern
Brands in alphabetical order
Concealers Substances of very high concern
Substances of high concern
Substances of moderate concern
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol MethoxyphenylTriazine
ButylMethoxydibenzoylmethane(Avobenzone)
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
Number of ingredients of concern
Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT)
Dioxyde de titane ou CI 77891**
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Butylphényl methylpropional
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl
Dioxyde de titane [nano]
Drometrizole Trisiloxane
CI 77266 Black 2 [nano]
Ethylhexyl salicylate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Ethylhexyl triazone
Cyclohexasiloxane
plastic ingredients
Parfum/fragrance
Zinc oxide [nano]
Benzyl benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl salicylate
Cyclomethicone
Hexyl cinnamal
Methylparaben
Chlorphenesin
Benzyl alcohol
Purchased at*
Ethylparaben
Octocrylene
Silica [nano]
Citronellol
Limonene
Geraniol
Eugenol
Linalool
Citral
BHT
Talc
AVENE
Couvrance
Pinceau correcteur PH 7 ● ●●● ● ● ● ●
peaux sensibles
teinte beige
THE BODY SHOP
Correcteur Eclat P 2 ● ● ●
Peau Nue - teinte light
EYE CARE
Pinceau anticernes
Peau et yeux sensibles -
PH 2 ● ● ●
teinte beige clair
FENTY BEAUTY
Pro Filt'r Anticernes
retouche instantanée
P 2 ● ● ●
teinte 150
GUERLAIN
Anti-Cernes Correcteur
Multi-Perfection
P 3 ● ● ● ●
teinte 05
KIKO
Full coverage
correcteur de teint
P 2 ● ● ●
teinte 01
LANCÔME
Effacernes longue tenue
SPF 30
P 5 ●● ● ● ● ●
teinte beige pastel 01
LAVERA
Natural Cover & care stick MB 8 ● ● ● ●● ● ●●●
teinte ivory 01
MAYBELLINE
(GEMEY)
Effaceur correcteur GS 7 ●● ●● ● ● ● ●
multi-usages
teinte beige nu
* MB = organic shop - GS = supermarket - PH = drugstore - P = perfume store
** According to tests performed by the French market surveillance authorities (DGCCRF), titanium dioxide not labelled as [nano] often
proves to be made of nanoparticles. If we had performed such tests as part of our survey, showing the presence of [nano] titanium
dioxide, we would have indicated them as being of very high concern in the tables above.
4lCosmetics: too many substances of concern
Brands in alphabetical order
Substances of very high concern
Substances of high concern
Substances of moderate concern
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol MethoxyphenylTriazine
ButylMethoxydibenzoylmethane(Avobenzone)
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
Number of ingredients of concern
Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT)
Dioxyde de titane ou CI 77891**
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Butylphényl methylpropional
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl
Dioxyde de titane [nano]
Drometrizole Trisiloxane
CI 77266 Black 2 [nano]
Ethylhexyl salicylate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Ethylhexyl triazone
Cyclohexasiloxane
plastic ingredients
Parfum/fragrance
Zinc oxide [nano]
Benzyl benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl salicylate
Cyclomethicone
Hexyl cinnamal
Methylparaben
Chlorphenesin
Benzyl alcohol
Purchased at*
Ethylparaben
Octocrylene
Silica [nano]
Citronellol
Limonene
Geraniol
Eugenol
Linalool
Citral
BHT
Talc
L'OREAL
Accord Parfait anti-cernes GS 2 ● ● ●
soin yeux - teinte ambre
Dr PIERRE RICAUD
Touche 0 défaut
anticernes correcteur
P 4 ●● ● ● ●
teinte moyen
LA ROCHE-POSAY
Toleriane Pinceau correcteur
sans parfum allergy tested-
PH 3 ● ● ● ●
teinte peaux mates
SEPHORA
Best skin ever anticernes P 2 ● ● ●
teinte 26
VICHY
Dermablend SOS Cover Stick
SPF 25
PH 2 ● ●
teinte opal
YVES ROCHER
Anti-cernes
Haute couvrance lumière
P 5 ●● ● ● ● ●
teinte beige 150
* MB = organic shop - GS = supermarket - PH = drugstore - P = perfume store
** According to tests performed by the French market surveillance authorities (DGCCRF), titanium dioxide not labelled as [nano] often proves to
be made of nanoparticles. If we had performed such tests as part of our survey, showing the presence of [nano] titanium dioxide, we would have
indicated them as being of very high concern in the tables above.
l5Cosmetics: too many substances of concern
Brands in alphabetical order
Mascaras Substances of very high concern
Substances of high concern
Substances of moderate concern
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol MethoxyphenylTriazine
ButylMethoxydibenzoylmethane(Avobenzone)
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
Number of ingredients of concern
Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT)
Dioxyde de titane ou CI 77891**
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Butylphényl methylpropional
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl
Dioxyde de titane [nano]
Drometrizole Trisiloxane
CI 77266 Black 2 [nano]
Ethylhexyl salicylate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Ethylhexyl triazone
Cyclohexasiloxane
plastic ingredients
Parfum/fragrance
Zinc oxide [nano]
Benzyl benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl salicylate
Cyclomethicone
Hexyl cinnamal
Methylparaben
Chlorphenesin
Benzyl alcohol
Purchased at*
Ethylparaben
Octocrylene
Silica [nano]
Citronellol
Limonene
Geraniol
Eugenol
Linalool
Citral
BHT
Talc
AVENE
Couvrance Mascara
PH 0
haute tolérance
teinte brun
BOURJOIS
Mascara effet Push Up
Volume Glamour
GS 3 ● ● ● ●
wonder black
CHANEL
Le Volume Révolution
de Chanel
P 4 ● ● ● ● ●
teinte Noir 10
CLINIQUE
Mascara High Impact
Effet cils liftés
PH 3 ● ● ● ●
teinte Noir
COULEUR CARAMEL
Mascara Perfect Volume MB 3 ● ● ●
Extrême - teinte Noir
DIOR
Diorshow Waterproof
Mascara volume sur-mesure
P 3 ● ● ● ●
teinte Bleu Azur
EYE CARE
Mascara haute tolérance
PH 0 ●
yeux sensibles
teinte Noir
KIKO
Darker blackest volume & P 4 ● ●● ● ●
colour intensifier mascara
LAVERA
Volume Mascara MB 4 ● ●●●
teinte Noir 01
* MB = organic shop - GS = supermarket - PH = drugstore - P = perfume store
** According to tests performed by the French market surveillance authorities (DGCCRF), titanium dioxide not labelled as [nano] often
proves to be made of nanoparticles. If we had performed such tests as part of our survey, showing the presence of [nano] titanium dioxide,
we would have indicated them as being of very high concern in the tables above.
6lCosmetics: too many substances of concern
Brands in alphabetical order
Substances of very high concern
Substances of high concern
Substances of moderate concern
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol MethoxyphenylTriazine
ButylMethoxydibenzoylmethane(Avobenzone)
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
Number of ingredients of concern
Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT)
Dioxyde de titane ou CI 77891**
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Butylphényl methylpropional
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl
Dioxyde de titane [nano]
Drometrizole Trisiloxane
CI 77266 Black 2 [nano]
Ethylhexyl salicylate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Ethylhexyl triazone
Cyclohexasiloxane
plastic ingredients
Parfum/fragrance
Zinc oxide [nano]
Benzyl benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl salicylate
Cyclomethicone
Hexyl cinnamal
Methylparaben
Chlorphenesin
Benzyl alcohol
Purchased at*
Ethylparaben
Octocrylene
Silica [nano]
Citronellol
Limonene
Geraniol
Eugenol
Linalool
Citral
BHT
Talc
MAYBELLINE
(GEMEY) GS 3 ● ● ● ●
Colossal Big shot
teinte Extra Noir
RIMMEL
Scandal Eyes on demand GS 2 ● ● ●
Volume - teinte Noir
LA ROCHE-POSAY
Toleriane
Mascara extension
PH 1 ● ●
teinte Noir
SEPHORA
Size Up Mascara P 1 ● ●
teinte Ultra Noir
YVES ROCHER
Mascara Intense
Métamorphose
P 1 ● ●
teinte Noir
ZAO
Mascara Aloe vera MB 0
teinte Noir
* MB = organic shop - GS = supermarket - PH = drugstore - P = perfume store
** According to tests performed by the French market surveillance authorities (DGCCRF), titanium dioxide not labelled as [nano] often proves to
be made of nanoparticles. If we had performed such tests as part of our survey, showing the presence of [nano] titanium dioxide, we would have
indicated them as being of very high concern in the tables above.
l7Cosmetics: too many substances of concern
Our main results
• 31 products out of 47, more than 80% contain at least one ingredient of very high concern.
• On the 37 substances of concern we identified, 7 are endocrine disruptors of very high concern.
• 36 products contain plastic ingredients.
• BB creams are the most problematic category, with one of them containing 13 substances of concern.
• The organic cosmetics of our survey rank above non-organic ones.
Our main demands
• Ban ingredients which we identified as of very high concern.
• Establish a pictogram, similar to the one displayed on alcohol, to warn pregnant women of the presence in
cosmetics of ingredients suspected of being of concern for human health, in particular endocrine disruptors.
• Ensure the correct labelling of nanoparticle ingredients.
• Substitute plastic ingredients.
Our tips
• Avoid substances which we identified as of very high concern, especially if you are
pregnant or plan to become pregnant.
• Prefer organic products and/or with labelling or logos which bring a guarantee
on the absence of certain ingredients of concern.
• Avoid cosmetics which contain endocrine disruptors, nanoparticles, allergens,
plastics, etc.
• Be cautious with perfumed cosmetics, which may contain allergens non
indicated on the packaging. In case of allergies, carefully read the label to find
potential fragrance allergens and better choose cosmetics for sensitive skin and/
or perfume-free.
• Do not buy a product if you cannot read the ingredients list: ingredients of
certain cosmetics of our survey, such as concealers or mascaras are sometimes
not readable, which prevents consumers from making an informed choice.
• Do ask questions to retailers at the time of purchase; This can contribute to a
faster substitution of certain ingredients of concern.
• Avoid using too many cosmetics together and everyday, to limit the so-called
“cocktail effect”.
• Remove your make-up at the end of the day, to allow the skin to breathe.
• More information in our pocket guides available on
www.wecf-france.org
The full report (in French), with a detailed description of each ingredient of concern, is available on:
www.wecf-france.org
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