"CREATING A SUSTAINABLE CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE" - ADDITIVES Sustainable stabilisation p 34 - COSSMA
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www.cossma.com | E51280 4/2021
ADDITIVES
Sustainable
stabilisation
p 34
PACKAGING
The challenge
of eco-design
p 48
“CREATING A
SUSTAINABLE
CUSTOMER
EXPERIENCE”
Dr Marko Grozdanovic,
Senior Vice President,
BASF Personal Care Europe
p 54
For Anna, Naomi, and Carl, living in the
city and being connected to nature are
not mutually exclusive. They live and
love a green life.
Their stories. Your products.
Our commitment.
Life-loving consumers want to trust in a bright and life-friendly
future. To satisfy these inner needs we are deeply committed
to achieving greater sustainability. BASF’s Care Creations ®
will support your sustainability strategy with ingredients that are
ecologically sourced, conserve resources or help avoid negative
environmental or social impact. Promise.
Every story matters.
carecreations.basf.com/sustainability
EDITORIAL
Positive changes
Not one day goes by when the topic of “sustainability” cannot be found in the media.
Although it’s always present, it’s never becomes monotonous. The cosmetics industry FOLLOW COSSMA ON:
in particular is constantly finding new ways to optimise the sustainability of the entire
production chain. For example, both manufacturers and customers pay a lot of attention
to the biodegradability of the ingredients. However, even some degradable components
break down into microplastics, which are known to cause great damage in the world’s
oceans. That is why scientists are working on harmless active ingredients from ecological www.cossma.com
sources and on boosters that ensure that fewer active ingredients are required. Since this
is a very extensive topic with many facets, we have dedicated our current “Go future”
from page 8 to it.
Sustainability in the cosmetics industry also means avoiding excessive consumption of
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raw materials, optimising production processes and transporting in such a way that the
carbon footprint of the product and company is as low as possible.
The good news: A lot is happening here right now that will help us to protect our earth
and our future!
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Stay healthy!
Sincerely yours,
www.youtube.de/cossmatv
Ramona Dreher
Senior Editor COSSMA
www.cossma.com l3
Contents
COSSMA 4/2021
8–21
Trends in organic, green or
natural cosmetics
7 MARKETS & 14 Improve biodegradability:
Fabienne Bizeray &
COMPANIES Wendy Xu, Dow
07 News
16 New ways with solid bars:
Dr Barbara Olioso, The Green
8 GO FUTURE: Chemist Consultancy
GREEN COSMETICS
18 Out of the sea:
10 The science behind clean Dr Inez Linke, oceanBasis
cosmetics: Ute Wollenweber,
care-and-science 21 International product
launches:
Michelle Strutton, Mintel
22 INGREDIENTS
24 Precise delivery of actives:
Daniel Pando, PhD, Nanovex &
Dr Jörg Oliver Schmitz,
MC Beauty Science
28 High standards:
Silke Langer, Univar Solutions
34 Stabilising
system
30 Formulations: Masks
31 News Ingredients
4l COSSMA 4I2021
24 Precise delivery of actives
38 Choosing the right additives: 58 Paving the way for the future:
Jennifer Hermitage, Cornelius Interview with Reiner Engert &
Bastian Cammann,
Klapp Cosmetics
60 News: Personalities & Profiles
40 MARKETING
42 Safety report of cosmetic
products: Sandra Haßler, Lemikos
SERVICES
44 Getting more climate friendly:
3 Editorial
Dip Ing (FH) Katrin Steinbach, as
Easy as That 6 Download List
61 Events Diary
62 Suppliers‘ Guide
46 PACKAGING 65 Advertisers’ Index
48 The challenge of eco-design: 66 Preview/Imprint
Malgorzata Chomiuk
52 Digital printing:
48 The challenge of eco-design
Michael Kamman, Digitran
54 PERSONALITIES &
PROFILES
32 ADDITIVES 54 Sustainability in all areas:
34 Sustainable stabilisation: Interview with Dr Marko Front cover picture:
Dr Marko Grozdanovic, Senior Vice President,
Alessa Huneke, CFF Grozdanovic, BASF BASF Personal Care Europe
www.cossma.com l5
SERVICES
Free Downloads
for subscribers | www.cossma.com/download
CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS: WWW.COSSMA.COM/TV
CHRISTOPH KNOKE DR CHRISTINA ZECH ÉLIE PAPIERNIK
Managing Director Germany, Managing Director, Faber-Castell Founder & CEO, Centdegrés
Information Resources Cosmetics explains the main challenges of meet-
explains how the cosmetics company’s talks about market trends and the solu- ing the requirements of sustainability in
E-commerce panels work. tions to answer them. the field of premium beauty products.
ANDREW MCDOUGALL DOMINIKA MINAROVIC & SAM FARMER
Global Beauty Analyst, Mintel ELSIE RUTTERFORT Founder, eponymus brand
explains the results of a Mintel study Co-founders, BYBI Beauty talks about his brand that offers
on consumer trust in the beauty explain why DIY products and their own various unisex alternative products for
industry. brand don’t compete with each other. teenagers.
photo: Kiuikson, Shutterstock.com
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Search for the topics you are interested in at www.cossma.com
6 l COSSMA 4I2021 www.cossma.com
MARKETS & COMPANIES
News
NEW CORPORATE IDENTITY AND DESIGN
SCHWAN COSMETICS | Just in time for the start of a new year, Schwan
Cosmetics has unveiled its new brand identity and logo. The launch marks
the introduction of a new brand purpose called “Mindful Beauty”. The new
positioning represents the company’s mindset and wholistic approach
towards connecting consumer and market needs into meaningful solu-
tions. With its new visual identity, Schwan Cosmetics want so present
itself as modern and authentic. The new logo in red embodies a visual
connection to the Schwan-Stabilo Group.
www.schwancosmetics.com
ADVERTISEMENT
Nathalie Dickeli,
Manging Director/
CEO is responsible for
the Superga Beauty
India subsidiary.
Expansion to India What is Essential?
SUPERGA BEAUTY | The company announces
the opening of a subsidiary in New Delhi,
India in March 2021. According to their own Univar Solutions has designed an equation to help you to perfect
your essential product range with best in class specialty ingredients.
statements Superga Beauty India is committed
The Essentials includes unique formulations to help you to carve out
towards 100% Fair Trade. The principles of fair
a space in the hearts and minds of your consumers for years to come.
trade allow manufacturers to help fight poverty
Experience our newest concept at univarsolutions.com/essentials
by guaranteeing minimum prices for producers
and a decent level of income for themselves
and their family, without being restricted by
competition rules.
www.supergabeauty.com
000012783 Univar PC Advert - The Essentials - Cossma - Big Island - Q1 2020 - Final.indd 1 02/03/2021 12:23
ECOLOGICALLY AWARDED
LESSEBO PAPER | The “Lessebo Recycled” that was launched in 2019 has now been awarded with the
EU Ecolabel. The uncoated FSC recycled (FSC-C021923) paper series made from sorted waste from Europe
claims to match very high sustainability standards and is available in two shades. The award is an eco-label
for environmental quality and is only given to products that meet high environmental standards throughout
their entire life cycle: from raw material extraction to production, sales, and disposal. It promotes the circular
economy by encouraging manufacturers to generate less waste and CO2 during the manufacturing process.
www.lessebopaper.com
www.cossma.com l7
GO FUTURE
Green
cosmetics
The science behind clean cosmetics ���������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 10
Improve biodegradability���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 14
New ways with solid bars���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 16
Out of the sea������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ p 18
International launches �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 21
photo: paulynn/Shutterstock.com
8l COSSMA 4I2021 www.cossma.com
www.cossma.com l9
GO FUTURE: GREEN COSMETICS
The Science Behind
Clean Cosmetics
Research | Consumers
are increasingly
demanding natural
cosmetics. To fulfil these
wishes, formulators have
to consider a lot. The
origin of the ingredients
and their ecological
harmlessness as well as
the safety of the products
are important factors.
S
NN Ute Wollenweber, ince 2020 everything is diffe- etc. “The Clean & Sustainable Beauty
Founder and General Manager, rent: Due to the pandemic the Agenda, 2021” published in the Feb-
care-and-science, Bonn, Germany, consumers’ perspectives chan- ruary issue of Global Cosmetic Indus-
www.care-and-science.com ged into a increased awareness of the try cites Euromonitor1,2 and lists up
photos: photos: thanmano, Gorodenkoff/Shutterstock.com
world we are living in: Natural cosme- among others the following points
tics and sustainable concepts often which should be kept in mind for
summarised as “clean cosmetics” cosmetic producers:
became even more important than • Development of sustainable
before the outbreak of Covid-19. products
“Clean” can describe a product as well • Recycling
as the way to produce it. The meaning • Sustainable sourcing
of it is complex because there is no • Waste
clear definition and it means different Next to Euromonitor, Mintel too
things to different people: Natural, stresses its forecast for 2021 trends on
organic, vegan, green, cruelty-free the “Beauty Eco-lution”3. The move-
10 l COSSMA 4I2021 www.cossma.comS K I N I F I C AT I O N O F
HAIR ROUTINE
Hair Therapy Inspired by Skin Care
ment to natural and sustainable products includes qua-
lity over quantity and the increase of lifetime value. Holistic scalp treatment
Anti-aging hair care
Green base
As mentioned before, top trends are driven by claims Deep moisturization
such as natural, organic etc. These characteristics start
Natural conditioning
at the choice of the raw materials. Next to the organic
origin of the chosen ingredients, long transportation Sensitive hair care
around the world should be avoided and therefore local
sources of the products preferred provided by regional
Cleansing
distributors. Ideally, the raw materials should be har- Hair scrub
vested under natural conditions and fair business with
the involved farmers. A re- or upcycling product
obtained from production waste would even be an
added benefit. Distributed by
IMPAG Import GmbH IMPAG Group Country Offices
Fritz-Remy-Straße 25 Switzerland / Zurich – www.impag.ch
D-63071 Offenbach am Main Germany /Offenbach – www.impag.de
Phone: + 49 (0) 69 850 008 - 0 France / Nancy + Paris – www.impag.fr
E-Mail: kosmetik@impag.de Poland / Warsaw – www.impag.pl
Web: www.impag.de Austria / Vienna – www.impag.atGO FUTURE: GREEN COSMETICS
Claim Beauty and Personal Care Consumer Health Besides that, surfactants with sul-
phate moiety are discredited in per-
#1 Natural Natural
sonal care products due to the draw-
#2 No Parabens No GMO
back of being aggressive to the hair,
#3 Fragrance Free No Artificial Preservatives
scalp, and skin. So, the number of
#4 No Silicone No Artificial Flavours sulphate-free shampoos on the
#5 No Sulphates No Artificial Colours market has grown significantly
during the past few years and formu-
table 1: Leading clean label claims in “Beauty and Personal Care” and “Consumer
lation chemists combine mild sur-
Health”, 2019; source: Euromonitor product claims and positioning4.
factants with other ingredients like
thickeners to provide gentle formulae
Importance of efficacy choice of emulsifiers and/or sur- with a fine and dense foam.
The efficacy of active ingredients factants. Green emulsifiers contain
moved deeper into the scientific app- either natural oils or organic waxes Gellants and thickeners
roach. Claims as anti-inflammatory, or are based on them. Nowadays, the When it comes to greener techno-
health-boosting, and support of the natural origin of the emulsifiers, logy, the need of the market reaches
skin barrier function are very pro- emollients, and surfactants like na- out to solve issues regarding the envi-
minent. Now “health is the key” and tural oils and waxes becomes more ronment like microbeads in our
the claims of cosmetics shifted from important and replace the long- oceans. Although acrylates have a
anti-ageing demands to restoration or chained derivatives based on small contribution to the microplas-
support of healthy skin. The raw mate- petroleum. tics contamination, the debate grew
rials incorporated into cosmetic for- The long alkyl chain frequently disproportional related to other
mulae should deliver both transpa- is esterified with natural OH-donors industries. Consequently, acrylate
rency when it comes to ingredient like glycerine or sugars. Often the polymers were discredited a couple of
sourcing and compliancy with ethical emulsifiers (and the entire formula) years ago even if their performance
labels5. The complete life cycle of a are claimed as “edible” due to their as gellants and thickeners and the
product should be known, and the origin in food applications. resulting skin feel in cosmetic formu-
industry must think about harmoni- Polyethylenglycol (PEG)-based sys- lations is well-known and not easy to
sing standards and regulation. The tems are considered skin permeation obtain with alternative gellants.
trend of “clean beauty” is the new enhancers. They may penetrate into Therefore, the cosmetics industry
industry standard6: Clean beauty the intercellular regions of the stra- nowadays offers a selection of poly-
turned into consumers’ demands and tum corneum and solubilise lipid saccharides and polyesters available
concerns especially triggered during components7. on the market which show a compa-
the Covid-19 pandemic. Therefore, these systems are under rable performance. Examples for
discussion regarding their skin irri- acrylates-alternatives are plant-based
Changes in tating potential, and the variety biodegradable ingredients like xanthan
selection of functionals of emulsifiers, emollients, and sur- gum or other gums, starch derivatives,
The selection of the raw materials for factants without ethoxylation is or ingredients of mineral origin, like
a natural formulation starts with the increasing. bentonite (clay).
Natural preservatives
The key role of preservatives is to
prevent microbial contamination.
Ideally it shows high antibacterial
activity but remains safe for human
use and for the environment. Since
the beginning of this millennium,
cosmetic formulators are facing the
need for effective alternative preser-
vatives to parabens and phenoxy-
ethanol. Now the trend moves on to
molecules with surfactant properties
which reduce the surface tension, dis-
rupt the bacterial cell walls, and there-
fore prevent their growth.
Cationic surfactants like ethylhexyl-
figure 1: Top Trends Expected to impact beauty and personal care; source: glycerin (EHG) or other glycerin
Euromonitor “Voice of the Industry”, “Beauty and Personal Care”4 ethers possess added benefits like
12 l COSSMA 4I2021 www.cossma.comGO FUTURE: GREEN COSMETICS
conditioning, moisturising, and focus on lean formulae. The INCI Improved sustainability is the key. It
emollient properties. Final formula- declaration very often shrinks to the includes the use of safer solvents as
tions with these glycerin derivatives basic ingredients necessary to obtain well as renewable ingredients to
can be labelled as “preservative-free”. a formulation with proven efficacy obtain biodegradable and green for-
Most of them are obtained from and nice skin feel. Usually, influen- mulae and eco-friendly, recyclable,
plant-based sources, an additional cers promote formulae with a maxi- and refillable packaging and a
plus for the clean final formula. mum of ten ingredients and formu- high-energy efficiency during the
Another interesting cationic compo- lation chemists go back to the entire production, to obtain a holistic
nent is ethyl lauroyl arginate with basics – the shorter the INCI declara- clean beauty product.Q
antimicrobial activity particularly tion, the better.
against the microorganisms Malasse- The pandemic is turning the world References
zia furfur (Dandruff), and Propioni- upside down which has impacting 1 The Clean & Sustainable Beauty Agenda 2021: Global
Cosmetic Industries, Febr 2021 issue, pp. 28-36
bacterium acnes (acne formation). It influence on the Personal Care indus-
2 Euromonitor International’s Voice of the Industry
is produced from the natural ingre- try. As the present and future during Sustainability Survey, conducted in June 2020;
www.portal.euromonitor.com
dients lauric acid and L-arginine and Covid-19 leaves us insecure, custo-
readily biodegradable8. It possesses mers are seeking clear and transpa- 3 Mintel’s 4 Global Beauty Consumer Trends of 2021,
Cosmetics & Toiletries Newsletter, Febr., 1st, 2021
a broad-spectrum activity against rent solutions and pay more attention
4 Health and Beauty in the Coronavirus Era, Euromonitor
bacteria (gram positive and nega- to environmental impact. The International, July 2020
tive), yeasts, and moulds and due to demand for clean cosmetics is not 5 Why “Clean” Beauty Doesn’t Mean “Safer” – Yet;
its cationic nature, it holds conditio- new but is now a global necessity. Cosmetics & Toiletries Newsletter, Jan., 19th, 2021
ning properties, too. Cosmetic chemists must carefully 6 Clean Beauty, COSSMA, Aug., 21st, 2020
choose the raw materials incorpo- 7 Nonionic Surfactants: Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Ethers
Short ingredients list rated into the final formula. The out- and Fatty Acid Esters as Penetration Enhancers, Percu-
taneous Penetration Enhancers – Chemical Methods in
Penetration Enhancement, Casiraghi et al., pp. 251-271,
The movement to natural and sus- come very often is minimalist formu- Springer, 2015
tainable products involves “quality lations with herbal ingredients
8 Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate HCl for Natural Preservation,
over quantity” and consumers now incorporated and inspired by food. Cosmetics & Toiletries, Dec. 2011
ADVERTISEMENT
METAL SHELL
PACKS
A luxury image for your brand
virospack.com
www.cossma.com l 13GO FUTURE: GREEN COSMETICS
Improve Biodegradability
Sunscreen | In the current discussion about environmental friendliness in cosmetic
products, the requirements for sunscreens are also increasing. Since many of the filters
on the market enjoy the dubious reputation of not being easily degradable, one way to
lessen the environmental impact of these products is to use boosters.
NN Fabienne Bizeray, tion against harmful Ultraviolet (UV) filters. Fewer UV filters leads to im-
Global Strategic Marketing Director, exposure is the innovative booster proved sensory experience and can
Dow Corporate, Midland, MI, USA microcrystalline cellulose1. contribute to reduced greasiness/tacki-
www.dow.com UV exposure is the primary root cau- ness, which is important for con-
se for non-biological skin ageing and sumer adoption. But some of those in-
cancer, and increased awareness of gredients are not biodegradable and
NN Wendy Xu, sun/UV damage has driven the ra- some are considered microplastics.
Application Scientist, pid growth of this market, projecting For the past few years, global sun
Dow Corporate, Midland, MI, USA, to reach $24.9 billion by 2029. UV fil- care brands have been searching dil-
www.dow.com
ters and Sun Protection Factor (SPF) igently for biodegradable alternatives
boosters are essential for UV protec- that still meet performance targets.
tion. However, these ingredients are fa- An innovative microcrystalline cellu-
cing heightened regulatory scrutiny lose was introduced to the market to
D
elivering sustainable and high- due to health and environmental con- close this gap with strong perfor-
performing sunscreens is a ma- cerns, resulting in bans and deselec- mance while meeting demands for
jor challenge faced by the glo- tion by brand owners and regulatory sustainability and biodegradability.
bal sun care industry. For the past agencies like the FDA. Finding sun- The SPF booster offers a high effi-
few years, sun care brands have been screen ingredients that are both sustai- ciency to enable enhanced sun pro-
searching diligently for biodegradab- nable and high performing is a challen- tection with fewer UV filters, and a
photo: Yulia.Panova/Shutterstock.com
le alternatives, but until this point ge the industry continues to face.2,3 strong sustainability profile,
hardly any sustainable materials including
have also succeeded in meeting per- The challenge with UV filters • 100% renewable carbon
formance targets. A highly efficient SPF boosters are traditionally utilised • Natural origin index of 0.97 based
and eco-friendly solution that add- to improve UV blocking efficacy of on ISO16128 norm
resses the key need of the global sun UV filters, thereby enabling high SPF • Readily biodegradable according
care industry for better skin protec- products with lower dosage of UV to OECD 301F
14 l COSSMA 4I2021GO FUTURE: GREEN COSMETICS
• Bio-derived from PEFC-certified
wood pulp to allow responsible
sourcing of raw materials.
How the booster works
The booster is utilising a light scatte-
ring mechanism with UV scattering
attributed to its particle size and refrac-
tive index (1.51-1.56). Scattering of
the harmful UV light can increase the
optical path length inside the sun-
screen film, resulting in a higher
probability for the UV light to be ab-
sorbed or strongly backscattered by
the UV filters. To enable the optimal
performance, it is recommended to
add this specific microcrystalline cellu-
lose to the continuous phase of the figure 1: Sunscreens flow curve
formulation and apply homogenisation
to ensure uniform and continuous
coverage of the booster in the sun- example, a formulation based on by the complexity of formulation
screen film. Additionally, it provides organic UV filters with 1% usage. By chassis such as water-in-oil and
multifunctional benefits such as adding microcrystalline cellulose to water-in-silicone system. This versa-
thickening and superior shear thin- the formulation, it delivered 36% tility fits the diverse needs and pre-
ning, further reducing usage of non- SPF boost in the in vivo SPF tests, ferences of global consumers by
biodegradable rheology modifiers. compared to the 10-18% boost ensuring skin protection and envi-
The rheological behaviour of sun- reached by leading non-biodegra- ronmental benefits. This innovative
screens containing this specific micro- dable market offerings. Such high bio-derived and bio-degradable SPF
crystalline cellulose was analysed efficiency allows 30 - 40% reduction booster allows consumers to rebuild
using flow curves. As shown in of UV filters to achieve similar UV the confidence in sun care products
figure 1, the data points were fitted protection by using only 1% of the and drives further usage of sun care
to the Power-Law Fluid equation eco-friendly booster. products for enhanced skin protec-
with R2 values close to 1: η=K·γ n-1 Through careful formulation process tion, thus opening the door to new
Where η is the viscosity, K is the flow design, this material succeeded in a possibilities in sun care for formula-
consistency index, γ is the shear rate, wide range of sun care product for- tors and consumers. Q
and n is the flow behaviour index. mats. The use level that enables the
References:
For a shear thinning fluid, n is < 1. optimal performance was 1.5- 2% in
1 Sun-Spheres Bio SPF Booster
Smaller n indicates higher degree of a variety of formulations. Such ver- 2 https://www.statista.com/statistics/812522/sun-care-
market-value-global
shear thinning. satility is not easy to achieve as the 3 https://www.imperialdist.com/seizing-suncare-
The n value of a sunscreen made boost efficiency can be compromised solutions
with 4.5% microcrystalline cellulose
and no other thickeners was only
0.02, which was ten times less than ADVERTISEMENT
the traditional acrylate copolymer
thickener, “Aculyn 38”. When used
in a sunscreen with the presence of
3% “Acu-lyn 38”, the booster low-
ered the n value by 50%, outperfor-
ming the benchmark. The superior
shear thinning enables good spread-
ability and sprayability within con-
sumer products.
Performance
Both in vitro and in vivo studies have
been conducted for sunscreen formu-
figure: Dow
lations based on organic UV filters as
well as inorganic UV filters. For
www.cossma.com l 15GO FUTURE: GREEN COSMETICS
New ways with Carrefour jumping on the band-
wagon with key messages such as
“zero plastic waste”, “recyclable
packaging”, “94% plant based” and
solid bars Cosmos organic.
Market attractiveness
One of the reasons that they look so
attractive to consumers is because,
Less water | Solid cosmetics, mostly in the packaging-wise, they are straight-
form of bars, are not only on the rise in hair forward and guilt-free. The bars are
usually packed in a simple cardboard
care. What are the advantages and where are box that is very easy to recycle and
possible pitfalls in development? Dr Barbara actually does get recycled, as the
photos: Space_Cat, Indre Pau, Bogdan Sonjachnyj/Shutterstock.com
Olioso gives an insight into the background. infrastructure is well developed for
cardboard.
Liquid cosmetics packed in plastic
NN Dr Barbara Olioso,
S
olid cosmetics, such as solid bottles need to be properly disposed
MRSC, The Green Chemist shampoos, have great poten- of at the end of their use, with only
Consultancy, Wells, UK, tial for innovation in our a small percentage getting properly
https://thegreenchemist.com industry during this age of climate recycled as the quality of plastic
change. The trend started in the UK, recycling infrastructure is very much
with Lush’s vision of reducing plastic location dependant.
waste, and saving many millions of Another interesting characteristic of
plastic bottles. this type of solid product is that they
Now it is a mainstream trend with tend to be much more concentrated or
companies such as Garnier and active than their liquid counterparts,
16 l COSSMA 4I2021 www.cossma.comGO FUTURE: GREEN COSMETICS
With a good base formulation, solid shampoos, Good drying and proper storage after use are important
for example, can also be lathered well. for the microbial safety of a cosmetic bar.
so they are lighter to ship around, order to assess the long-term micro- issues. Solutions to this go from
saving on CO2 emissions that are bial safety, as the standard protocols recommending storage of the bar in
linked to the transport of the finished are designed for liquid products. its original box once dry, to selling
product to the consumer or the In the handbook on cosmetic preser- reusable boxes or tins to the user.
stores. vation1 there are a few interesting With the current pandemic, where
hygiene is of an even a greater con-
cern for the consumer, in a domestic
“Good storage also helps to keep the fragrance environment and with a little bit of
collaboration, these products can
in the bar for longer.” promote sustainable innovation, and
be presented to the premium as well
Dr Barbara Olioso as mass market in the cosmetic
sector.
They might even inspire the packa-
Shelf life of solids multifunctional ingredients that are ging industry to develop new mate-
In terms of performance, there are in a solid format that could be used rials that are easier to recycle for the
some really good bases available (for for this application to boost microbial consumers.Q
example isethionates bases), that are safety.
mild, have good foaming properties Once the bars are being used, they
and hold their shape over time. With are more difficult to differentiate
regard to challenge testing, different from one another and they need to References:
testing protocols need to be used in be left to dry to avoid microbial 1 Handbook for Cosmetic Preservation, Dr Barbara Olioso
ADVERTISEMENT
About Nature
The fascination of nature is higher than ever be-
fore and consumers are craving for natural and
nature inspired fragrances which support the ex-
pected mental benefits. Sustainability means re-
sponsibility for humanity and nature, for products
and firms, for present and future. Besides natu-
ral raw materials, at Düllberg Konzentra, it´s the
technologies that enable us additionally to create
products of exceptional purity and quality. It´s the
creativity that goes into developing natural frag-
rances, it´s the expertise and passion with which
our employees ensure our customers´ success.
Düllberg Konzentra.
The essence of nature.
www.cossma.com l 17
www.duellberg-konzentra.deGO FUTURE: GREEN COSMETICS
Out of the sea
Seaweed active ingredients | Many active
ingredients from the sea are known to be particu-
larly effective. Algae are also such power packs,
because they can filter and store many trace
elements from seawater – and by the way, algae
from sustainable management can contribute to
environmental protection.
M
NN Dr Inez Linke, arine algae are not only an singly important suppliers of active
Managing Director, oceanBasis,
alternative resource to pro- ingredients for medical products and
photos: oceanBasis
Kiel, Germany,
duce food and feed ingre- cosmetics. Recent studies reveal phar-
www.oceanbasis.de
dients as well as biochemicals and maceutically interesting substances
biofuels, but they are also increa- that exhibit previously unknown
18 l COSSMA 4I2021 www.cossma.comGO FUTURE: GREEN COSMETICS
antitumor mechanisms of action and the environment. Cultivated algae that the human body needs. At the
antiviral properties. are also characterised by high same time, they are organically
Of the more than 11,000 known standards of quality control and bound so that the body can use them
species of marine algae, approxi- cleanliness. well. More than 80 different sub-
mately 50 species, mainly brown and Worldwide, more than 30 million stances can be detected in algae.
red algae, have been used industri- tons of algae are already cultivated
ally to date. annually in aquacultures, so far Algae ingredients and
Marine algae have an important func- mainly in Asia. In Europe, especially their effects
tion for the marine environment, pro- in Scandinavia, the number of Sea minerals (potassium, calcium,
viding an important habitat for algae farms is growing rapidly. Cur- magnesium, sodium, chloride, etc.)
numerous marine species. Brown rently, more than 110t of seaweed is and trace elements (copper,
algae can form huge underwater already grown annually in over 400 selenium, chromium, zinc, iron,
forests and thus produce com- farms in Norway. iodide, strontium, etc.) stimulate
parable amounts of oxygen to tro- Unlike land plants, algae do not have the metabolism, promote blood
pical rainforests. They also bind roots through which they absorb circulation and maintain the skin’s
CO2, absorb excess nutrients, and nutrients and water. Instead, they natural moisturising factor (NMF).
thus sustainably improve water absorb minerals and trace elements Due to the stimulated metabo-
quality. directly from seawater over their lism and improved oxygen uptake,
entire surface and can store them in the detoxification functions of
Cultivation of algae very high concentrations. the skin can be promoted, and
It is therefore extremely important to Therefore, they have the highest waste products can be better
use algae from sustainable wild nutrient density of all plants. One removed.
collection – and even better from sus- kilogram of fresh algae contains The most important minerals po-
tainable aquaculture. This not only marine active ingredients from tassium, sodium and chloride regu-
conserves natural stocks, but also around 10,000 litres of seawater. late the water balance of the cells and
has a proven positive impact on Algae contain all the trace elements improve the function of the skin
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barrier, i.e. the marine minerals
sustainably increase the moisture con-
tent of the skin.
Magnesium also strengthens cell
metabolism; iodide promotes blood
circulation. The skin appears
plumper and smoother. The stron-
tium and selenium salts contained
in seawater have a positive soothing
effect on inflammatory skin
diseases.
Approximately 20 amino acids (pro-
tein building blocks, e.g. histidine,
isoleucine, lysine, methionine, tryp-
tophan, glutamic acid) provide
building blocks for the metabo-
lism, prevent dehydration, and have
a refatting effect, strengthening
the supporting tissue of the
epidermis. Laminaria is one of the brown algae that is used to extract active ingredients in cosmetics.
Vitamins (e.g. A, B2, B12, C, D, E and
K, folic acid) and antioxidant poly-
phenols protect the skin from nega- the skin can retain moisture for processes. These active ingre-
tive environmental influences as well longer in cosmetics. dient extracts can be readily in-
as free radicals and thus prevent pre- The various groups of substances corporated into a variety of cosmetic
mature skin aging. work synergistically together and formulations for face and body
Special algae sugars (e.g. alginate, thus moisturise the skin particularly applications to produce cleansing
fucoidan, laminarin) act as active effectively, supply the cells with products, skin care creams, active
ingredient carriers and have a par- energy, activate cell metabolism and ingredient serums and bath
ticularly moisturising, regenerating, promote regeneration and cell additives.
and firming effect on the skin. renewal. Marine cosmetic products can be
Antioxidants such as polyphenols used to combine various facial and
strengthen the skin’s resistance Algae in cosmetics body treatments into a thalassic
with their protective properties. To access the diverse active treatment. These include body
Extremely effective moisture binders, ingredients of marine algae, effective scrubs, face masks and body wraps,
which prevent the algae from drying holistic algae extracts are pro- baths, facial and full body massa-
out at low tide, also ensure that duced using various extraction ges. The treatments have a regene-
rating, vitalising, toning effect
and offer relaxation for face and
body. The skin’s own protective
mechanisms are strengthened and
resistance to negative environ-
mental influences is improved.
Conclusion
In summary, seaweed with its nu-
merous synergistic ingredients has
great potential for healthy active cos-
metics. In addition, the cultivation of
marine algae has a positive effect on
the marine environment and – since
it binds CO2 – also has a positive
impact on the climate. Therefore,
algae active ingredients from sus-
tainable aquaculture are among the
promising raw materials for the
future, which will hopefully gain
Harvest from a sustainable algae farm in Europe. more and more importance.Q
20 l COSSMA 4I2021 www.cossma.comGO FUTURE: GREEN COSMETICS
Product development | Organic, green and natural cosmetics are the focus
of the Mintel highlights this month, because consumers are increasingly
demanding these products. This trend has been apparent for a number of
years, but has took up speed during the months of the Corona pandemic.
E
ven during Covid-19, the natu- (Anti-Pollution Leave-in Spray),
ral and sustainable movement described as a lightweight protec- Shiseido
has remained a core trend tive mist, claimed to shield strands A makeup container
within the beauty and personal care from atmospheric pollution and heat that is made from
sector, and natural and organic op- damage whilst significantly increa- a 100% vegetable
polymer.
tions are mainstream in many beauty sing protection against UV stress and
markets. Global market leaders con- helping protect against colour fading.
tinue to launch ranges that come It is formulated with: polysaccharide
close to the 100% natural ingre- matrix, tara tannins and organic sun-
dient ideal and feature a high share flower sprout extract, panthenol,
of organic ingredients, meaning green tea extract and amino acids.
such options will eventually become Suitable for hair with a tendency for
the norm. In response, natural and grease, this product is vegan, free
organic specialists are looking to from gluten, parabens, sulphates, sili-
position themselves at an even higher cones, phthalates and mineral oil.
ethical level, to set themselves apart
as the superior, trusted option. Natural only
La Bouche Rouge is a brand of eco-
Protective mist friendly and humanist French luxury
The Grow Gorgeous Defence range cosmetics. It includes “Le Sérum Noir
is described as an anti-pollution hair Mascara”, which is described as the based materials and not plastic. The
care routine claimed to prevent and world’s first glass mascara, featuring product contains 99% natural origin
counteract the effects of free radi- a serum formula that tends to lashes, ingredients, is free from microplas-
cal and particle damage, for ra- while embellishing them, being ideal tics and petrochemical derivatives to
diant, healthy-looking hair. Included for strong, glamorous lashes. Simul- ensure volume and care. pack, fea-
is “Schützendes Leave-in Spray” taneously serving as a mascara and turing a no leather sleeve and an
lash care, it contains carnauba wax to infinitely recyclable metal cap. It is
coat lashes while preserving all their available in the shade Noir.
suppleness, and provide a streng-
thening effect. Thanks to the com- Biodegredable polymer
Grow Gorgeous La bouche rouge bination of castor fibres and jojoba In Japan, Shiseido has worked with
Protects the hair Mascara and nourishing oil, it is said to provide volume and Kaneka to produce ‘world-first’
from negative eyelash serum combined spectacular definition, from the very makeup containers using PHBH, a
external influences. in one product.
first application, while enhancing biodegradable 100% plant-based
lash growth. Its natural formula is polymer that is naturally broken
designed to provide excellent hold down in oceans, dirt etc. “AquaGel Lip
all throughout the day, and is easy to Palette” is the first launch using the
remove. It features a brush describe material. Q
as the first brush in the world made
without microplastics, composed in-
stead of caster plant fibres. It features
the wiping ring, the piece situated at
photos: Mintel
the tip of the glass, to allow to ob- Michelle Strutton,
Global Research Manager
tain the right amount of mascara on Beauty & Personal Care, Mintel,
the brush, being crafted from plant- London, UK, www.mintel.com
www.cossma.com l 2122 l COSSMA 4I2021
www.cossma.com
photo: Lukas Gojda/Shutterstock.comINGREDIENTS
Precise delivery of actives����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 24
High standards��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 28
Formulations: Masks������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ p 30
www.cossma.com l 23INGREDIENTS
Precise
delivery of actives
Liposomes | Liposomes are used so that active ingredients can penetrate exactly into the
skin layer intended for them and act there. Daniel Pando and Dr Jörg Oliver Schmitz talk
about their different capabilities depending on the size and composition of the Liposomes.
NN Daniel Pando, PhD, The first liposomes were developed 1223/2009 on cosmetic products it is
CEO, Nanovex Biotechnologies, in the 1960s in the University of Cam- no nanomaterial. Liposomes nor-
Llanera, Spain, bridge laboratories by Professor mally have sizes slightly larger than
www.nanovexbiotech.com Bangham. His initial objective was to 100 nm (means: not nanomaterial).
disperse lipophilic compounds Even if they are below this size, they
(encapsulated in liposomes) in would still maintain their non-nano-
NN Dr Jörg Oliver Schmitz, aqueous solutions. In 1986, impressed material status since they are soluble
Technical Support, MC Beauty by their results, the laboratories of and biodegradable.
Science, Idstein, Germany Christian Dior developed the first
www.mcbeauty-science.com cosmetic product based on lipo- Changes in technology
somes. The presence of liposomes in The technology today is absolutely
other fields has grown year after year not the same as that of the ‘60s or
while they have evolved in the most ’80s. Although the concept and the
innovative laboratories. Liposomes base (phospholipids) are similar, lipo-
L
iposomes are systems able are currently used in various fields, somes have evolved (and will con-
to encapsulate cosmetic actives. of which the most prominent are tinue to do so) in terms of composi-
Because of their protection medicine, cosmetics, and food. tion and manufacturing methods,
photo: Fotaro1965/Shutterstock.com
and vehiculation capacity, lipo- among others.
somes increase the effectiveness of What is a liposome? Such is its evolution that a large part
the cosmetic actives. Recent develop- A liposome is a spherical nanovesicle of the new drugs which are being
ments in the formulation of lipo- formed mainly by phospholipids, developed for the future are based on
somes allow a more precise which adopt a lipid bilayer structure this technology. The current lipo-
target-oriented delivery than ever when they are in aqueous disper- somes are quite different to those
before in cosmetic history. sions. According to EC Regulation developed by Bangham in the 1960s.
24 l COSSMA 4I2021 www.cossma.comINGREDIENTS
Main advantages in cosmetics
The most important advantages are
the protection of the encapsulated
compound, preventing its degrada-
tion, and the ability to transport and
release it in the target skin layers,
increasing the payloads efficiency. In
case of the latest developments,
another big advantage is the increased
precision of target oriented modern
liposomes which allows for more effi-
cient use of actives, thus reducing the figure 1: Structure of a a liposome.
amount needed to achieve a desired
efficacy, and consequently reduces
undesired side effects. Other advan-
tages are the possibility of dispersing variants. Regarding its composition, of phospholipids, such as HLB (Hydro-
lipophilic compounds in aqueous the fundamental compound is phos- philic-Lipophilic Balance), CPP
phases and the masking of odours pholipids. These compounds can be (Critical Packing Parameter), the
and colours, among others. In addi- incorporated either using lecithin charge and nature of its polar group
tion, the liposome composition re- (which contains between 50-70% and the length and saturation of its
pairs the protective barrier and con- phospholipid mixtures) or using pure non-polar tail, must be taken into
tributes to maintaining hydration. phospholipids. account for the development of an
It should be noted that there is a effective product.
Several types of liposomes wide variety of phospholipids avai- In addition, the use of other
Considering both its composition and lable for liposome development in compounds such as stabilisers (cho-
its morphology, we can find many cosmetic applications. Key parameters lesterol is the most used) and,
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www.cossma.com l 25INGREDIENTS
depending on the release strategy,
other lipids such as ceramides, addi-
tives that improve the flexibility of
lipo-somes or their penetration into
the skin, and compounds that modify
surface charge, among others, are
highly recommended to achieve the figure 2: Types of liposomes.
best results.
Regarding their morphology, there
are several types of structures de-
pending on the lamellarity (number
of lipid bilayers), their disposition
and the size of the liposome, the
most common being the following:
Where SUV (Small Unilamellar Vesi-
cles) are small liposomes with a figure 3: Deliveries with specific cosmetic targets.
single lipid bilayer, MLV (Multi-
Lamellar Vesicles) are multilayered
and the most used in cosmetics, LUV
(Large Unilamellar Vesicles) are penetration enhancers are the most extracts, among others. It should be
larger monolayer liposomes and common strategy. noted that it is possible to encapsu-
MVV (MultiVesicular Vesicles) where Different pictures of liposomes used late several of these compounds,
we can find smaller liposomes on deep, surface, hair and follicle even if they are of different nature, in
trapped within larger ones. delivery are shown in figure 3. The the same liposome.
liposomes used in these experiments
Selection of composition are marked with a red fluorophore Amount of encapsulation
The selection of the composition and (rhodamine) to track the penetration. The amount to encapsulate is a very
other parameters related to its mor- The pictures prove the great specifi- important parameter to be consi-
phology (size or lamellarity, among city of these systems in reaching the dered, since it is closely related to the
others) depends on the compound to target layer/area. encapsulation efficiency.
be encapsulated, on the skin layer Although each case is different, the
where this encapsulated compound Variety of options concentration of the active to be encap-
must be released and on the cosmetic Most of kinds of compounds can be sulated should be lower than 50% of
product where liposomes will be encapsulated by liposomes. There are the liposome concentration.
dispersed. logical limitations, such as the size of Exceeding this amount leads to low
For example, for a surface delivery, the compounds to be encapsulated encapsulation efficiency and, there-
large liposomes (MLV or LUV) are (compounds larger than liposomes, fore, the majority of the active would
used, containing, in addition to phos- such as probiotics, cannot be encap- be unencapsulated.
pholipids and cholesterol, other sulated). Liposomes can encapsulate
lipids which contribute to deliver the both lipophilic compounds (within Possible uses
encapsulated compound on the most lipid bilayers) and hydrophilic com- Liposomes are stable in aqueous
superficial layers of the skin. On the pounds (in the aqueous spaces in the media. This means that they can be
other hand, for deeper deliveries, centre of the liposome or between the added to any formula with an
liposomes of a smaller size (MLV or bilayers). Furthermore, compounds of aqueous phase: gels, emulsions, or
SUV) containing compounds that different nature can be encapsulated: double emulsions, among others. On
improve membrane flexibility and molecules, peptides, proteins, or the other hand, liposomes should not
be added in pure oily media since
because of the lipophilic nature, they
Facts about liposomes would dissolve.
If liposomes have been developed
figures: Indermal/nanovex Biotechnologies
Myth Reality
It is a nanomaterial No because it is biodegradable, soluble, and normally greater than 100 nm. using the right formulation and manu-
It might be argued that the only common aspect since 1980 is the presence facturing process, they can resist:
They have not evolved
of phospholipids in the formulations. • Aequos solutions with detergents
Absolutely. As an example: There are more than 40,000 patents using differ- or less than 20%(v/v) ethanol
All liposomes are similar
ent liposomes. • A broad pH range: 3ADVERTISEMENT AGRANA.COM
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The natural upgradeINGREDIENTS
High standards
Makeup | The demands have changed in recent
months due to the pandemic and the new work
situation associated with it. Non-staining makeup
and, at the same time, caring products that should
be produced as sustainably as possible, are the trend.
Silke Langer gives an insight into the status.
NN Silke Langer, creating a need to redefine beauty What’s Trending
Senior Marketing Manager BPC, and personal care trends with indoor More consumers want colour cosme-
Univar Solutions, Essen, Germany, use and self-care front of mind1. tics and skincare products with nat-
www.univarsolutions.com ural or organic ingredients without
Consumer Consciousness sacrificing long-lasting performance.
Conscious consumerism is influen- With the rise of virtual at-home work
cing this “new now” as consumers and hygienic concerns, beauty for-
change to a lifestyle that emphasises mulators are adapting products to
clean, natural beauty and essential meet lighting and long-lasting needs.
personal care. Increasingly, beauty Laptop camera definitions require
C
olour cosmetics fatigue, stay- and personal care consumers are light coverage, achieved with con-
at-home measures during the looking for tangible, measurable be- cealer and tinted moisturisers or clas-
Covid-19 pandemic and retail nefits from their purchases that sup- sical foundations. This supports the
store closures are shifting retail port environmental and sustainable acceleration of convenient, multi-
buying behaviour. Each year brings causes. This trend will accelerate in functional hybrid products and the
new product development with little the post-Covid-19 world, and con- resurgence of makeup with sustai-
differentiating the latest launches, sumers will mainly look at the ethical nable solutions. Consumers require
photo: JAYANNPO/Shutterstock.com
and consumers are becoming more credentials or clean label principles convenient and speedy rituals in the
environmentally conscious about of their colour cosmetic purchases “new now” that create looks fo-
purchasing less to reduce plastic before making a choice. Conscious cused on healthy skin and sheer
waste and support sustainability ini- consumerism is also driven by the coverage.
tiatives. As a result, by the end of global health crisis’s economic and “Long-lasting” claims became a more
2020 the global beauty industry expe- emotional impact, which continues significant trend in 2020. According
rienced a 10% decline in value, to take its toll. to Mintel, the long-lasting effect
28 l COSSMA 4I2021INGREDIENTS
is essential for lip and eye makeup. more options to develop make up capabilities can be designed. With a
Long-lasting claims rose in impor- formulations in the future. bio-based emollient6 a satin light
tance as hygiene concerns impacted Today’s latest ingredients fulfil feeling in a makeup formulation can
on-the-go use of makeup. The man- consumer demand for more sustain- be developed beside the effect of
datory use of facemasks dramatically able bio-based or biodegradable enhancing the stability and an
affects the transfer and smudging of solutions. improved colour pigment hold.
colour cosmetics, resulting in the
desire for long-lasting and no-transfer Film former for long lasting Texturisers
products. make up Which format is needed, a liquid
With a new product launch2, a long fluid or a cream? Which is the pack-
Formulating for the “new now” lasting and comfortable to wear film aging format, a tube, pump, or a jar?
How to formulate the best natural former is introduced which can Using natural based texturisers origin
base solutions can be a challenge for achieve superior water and sebum of polysaccharides 7 with many
every formulator for several reasons: repellence, excellent film integrity talents to build the viscosity or sta-
makeup products need to be easily and rub-off resistance, which trans- bility of a formulations and adding
applied and have a long-lasting per- late into long-lasting benefits. The aesthetic benefits like smoothness,
formance with a nice pigment disper- new film former contains a carrier shine, or moisturising.
sion, while keeping skin in a healthy system of 100% derived from renew- Another new texturiser and emulsion
condition. The right choice of a film able feedstock’s, improving the nat- stabiliser for cosmetics based on
former with superior water and urality content score with a potential citrus peel fibres from the pectin pro-
sebum repellence and rub off re- of up to 60% following ISO 16128 for duction side stream can be used for
sistance is needed. Non-occlusive substances. bio cosmetic and natural base end
and keeping skin hydrated and formulations.
smooth is a key element. Sensorial enhancer The combination of biodegradable
Each formulator knows how difficult An ultra-smooth feel can be designs and derived from 100% natural origin
it is to choose the right ingredients with Fluid a blend of an ultra-high (in accordance with ISO 16128) citrus
for the best sensorial performance viscosity dimethiconol in C13-15 peel fibres with sclerotium gum,
to have the best spread ability and alkane 3 bioderived, inherently resulted in the creation of a textu-
low tackiness combined with a primary biodegradable carrier. riser8, designed specifically for skin-
smooth feeling on the skin. Con- Another sensorial enhancer4, a sili- care for to achieve a quick breaking
sumers additionally look for a great cone elastomer, smoothens the skin texture, long lasting freshness and
gloss and shine for a makeup product and improves skin imperfections. cooling effect, none tacky and satin
to leave them confident and selfie The advantage of low levels in D4, skin feel. Q
ready. If all the key elements are D5 and D6 and being formulated in
achieved, consumers are staying with a bio-based carrier, allows cosmetic References:
the makeup offering and loyal to the formulations to develop a higher na-
1 Colour Cosmetics: Inc Impact of Covid-19, UK,
brand and the willingness of repur- turality content (ISO 16128 eligible July 2020
chase is high. content up to 70%). 2 Dowsil Fa Peps Silicone Acrylate by Dow
3 Dowsil PMX-1508
Bio based and natural derived ingre- Beside smoothness powdered and
4 Dowsil El-Tips
dients are on a new scope of con- matte finish are needed in makeup 5 like C*EmTex
sumers’ minds. New ingredients with formulations (graphs 1 and 2), with 6 like BioEstolide
higher levels of bio-based content are polysaccharide extracted from corn 7 like the texturizing architect Actigum VSX 20
8 FiberDesign Sensation
getting into the market and allow and modified5 high oil-absorption
graphs and table: Univar Solutions
graphs 1 and 2 show sensory profile on skin before and after absorptions.
www.cossma.com l 29You can also read
