"HOW TO INNO- VATE WITHIN A LIMITED LIST OF INCI NAMES" - CORONA CRISIS Sudden changes p 8 - COSSMA

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"HOW TO INNO- VATE WITHIN A LIMITED LIST OF INCI NAMES" - CORONA CRISIS Sudden changes p 8 - COSSMA
www.cossma.com | E51280                         5 / 2020

                                   CORONA CRISIS
                                   Sudden changes
                                   p8

                                   INGREDIENTS
                                   When aging
                                   becomes positive
                                   p 20

                          “HOW TO INNO-
                          VATE WITHIN
                          A LIMITED LIST
                          OF INCI NAMES”
                          Joel Mantelin, Vice President
                          Ashland
                          p 58
"HOW TO INNO- VATE WITHIN A LIMITED LIST OF INCI NAMES" - CORONA CRISIS Sudden changes p 8 - COSSMA
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"HOW TO INNO- VATE WITHIN A LIMITED LIST OF INCI NAMES" - CORONA CRISIS Sudden changes p 8 - COSSMA
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"HOW TO INNO- VATE WITHIN A LIMITED LIST OF INCI NAMES" - CORONA CRISIS Sudden changes p 8 - COSSMA
EDITORIAL

Sudden changes

D
        ue to SARS-CoV-2, the whole world seems to becoming dislocated. Govern-                FOLLOW COSSMA ON:
        ments are trying to contain the spread as quickly as possible with a varie-
        ty of measures. These restrictions, however, affect us and our industry very
much. No trade fairs can take place, dates which were scheduled are already being
postponed. In some countries, only those companies which can continue to work
where employees are able to work in homeoffice. Unemployment and econom-                           www.cossma.com
ic crises threaten. Are there only horror reports left? No, not at all. New dates for
exhibitions are already being communicated, giving a little visibility in an uncer-
tain time. There are companies who have switched theirproduction from person-
al care to desinfectants, supplying their local hospitals. There are also those who
                                                                                        www.linkedin.com/company/cossma-digital
have made their protective equipment available to medical personnel. In private,
music is played on balconies and children paint rainbows on the windows. A ray of
hope, I think. As bad as this pandemic is and as terrible as it is to mourn the many
deaths, these examples of generosity bring our humanity back to light.
Let us continue to stand together, take care of each other and do everything that is
                                                                                           www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine
necessary to fight this virus.

Stay healthy!

                                                                                               www.youtube.de/cossmatv
Sincerely yours,

Georg von Griesheim,
Managing Director

                                                                                                           www.cossma.com    l3
"HOW TO INNO- VATE WITHIN A LIMITED LIST OF INCI NAMES" - CORONA CRISIS Sudden changes p 8 - COSSMA
Contents
COSSMA 5/2020

                       8	MARKETS &             10	GO FUTURE:
                          COMPANIES                 ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
                         7   News                  12 Interview with Francesca
                         8   Survey:                  Pascucci, Volker
                             Sudden changes           Rosenberger, DSM:
                                                      Conscious Beauty
                                                   16 Dr Sarah Christina Pütsch,
                                                      Sederma: Colour meets care

                               28   What skin
                               microbiome can
                                                   20 Interview with Maud Merlini,
                                                      Seppic: When ageing
                                                      becomes positiv
                                                   22 Mélanie Coirier, Pauline
                                                      Tinguely-Rouaud, Silab:
                                                      Bio inspired
                                                   24 Michelle Strutton, Mintel:
                                                      International product launches

                                                26 INGREDIENTS
                                                   28 Dr Bernd Becker, Molcare
                                                      Consulting: What skin
                                                      microbiome can
                                                   32 Mathias Fleury, Givaudan:
                                                      Better sleep - better skin
                                                   34 Formulations: Natural Cosmetics
                                                   35 News: Ingredients

4l   COSSMA 5 I 2020
"HOW TO INNO- VATE WITHIN A LIMITED LIST OF INCI NAMES" - CORONA CRISIS Sudden changes p 8 - COSSMA
10–24
                           Latest launches & trends
                           for active ingredients

                                                             32     Better sleep - better skin

                                            42 Jennifer Barachet, Quadpack:                 60 News:
                                               Skin care for all types                         Personalities & Profiles

                                       44 MARKETING                                         SERVICES
                                            46 Dr Andreas Reinhart, Reinhart                 3 Editorial
                                               Rechtsanwälte: Borderline                     6 Download List
                                               products: Cosmetics or not?
                                                                                            61 Events Diary
                                            42 Christian Lüke, Düllberg                     62 Suppliers‘ Guide
                                               Konzentra: Green lungs
                                                                                            65 Advertisers’ Index
                                                                                            66 Preview/Imprint
                                       50 PACKAGING
                                            52 Market survey: Process tech-
                                               nology, laboratory equipment &
                                               packaging machines
                                            56 Nesrin Hesso, PhD, VMI:
                                               Mixing Tools

 36
                                            51 News Packaging
      Pumps & Dispensers                    53 Review PCD

                                       58 PERSONALITIES &
36 PUMPS & DISPENSERS                     PROFILES
   38 Bernd Genath, Fischerplanning:        58 Interview with Joel Mantelin,
      Protects against impurity                Ashland: Trend of Trends:
                                                                                           Front cover picture:
   41 News: Packaging                          Biofunctionals                              Joel Mantelin, Ashland, www.ashland.com

                                                                                                                     www.cossma.com   l5
"HOW TO INNO- VATE WITHIN A LIMITED LIST OF INCI NAMES" - CORONA CRISIS Sudden changes p 8 - COSSMA
SERVICES

                   Free Downloads
                   More information for subscribers at www.cossma.com

       CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS: WWW.COSSMA.COM/TV

ROBIN BIELEFELD                                     CHRISTINE WILD                                      ERWIN SCHUSTER
Purchasing Manager, Börlind                         Director International Sales,                       Head of Market Segment
about the company’s latest achieve-                 Boerlind                                            New Markets and APAC, Geka
ments in sustainable packaging                      about the company’s latest achieve-                 about his company’s innovations in sus-
                                                    ments in sustainability                             tain-able packaging

STEFANO MEAZZA                                      TIM EAVES                                           JEAN-YVES BOURGEOIS
CEO of the company Cappardoni                       CEO, Quadpack                                       CEO, JYB Conseils
about the complexity of recycling and               provides background on their                        about the major changes in the
the company’s most recent acquistions               ­acquisition of the German packaging                ­packaging industry in the past 5 years
                                                     company Louvrette
                                                                                                                                                       photo: Kiuikson, Shutterstock.com

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6 l COSSMA 5 I 2020
"HOW TO INNO- VATE WITHIN A LIMITED LIST OF INCI NAMES" - CORONA CRISIS Sudden changes p 8 - COSSMA
MARKETS & COMPANIES

                                                                                                                     News
REBRANDING
SCHUMACHER PACKAGING | The new pro-
duction site in the English city of Birmingham
is now officially renamed on 1st April 2020.
“Jaffabox Ltd” became “Schumacher Pack-
aging Ltd”. The company acquired Jaffabox,
a manufacturer of various corrugated board
packaging solutions that is also family-run, in
November 2019. At the same time, a genera-
tional shift took place in the family that used
to own the company: Annette Amyes is now
Managing Director in the Birmingham plant         Award                        Eduardo M. Molina (Business Director Innohealth), Dr Lisa
                                                                               Maus (Global Director Innovation Management Active Ingre-
                                                  again                        dients), Eduardo Muñoz MD PhD (Co-founder of innoHealth),
                                                                               Juan Carlos Guzman (Director General Evonik España y
                                                                               Portugal S.A.U. and Managing Director innoHealth)
                                                  LIPOID KOSMETIK |
                                                  During the annual sus-
                                                  tain conference in March
                                                  2020, EcoVadis hon-
                                                  oured the company for
                                                                               EXPANSION OF SKILLS
and her brother Mark has the role of Sales        its actions in sustainable   EVONIK | The company has concluded a purchase agree-
Director. The rebranding of the English plant     procurement and Corpo-       ment to acquire innovativeHealth Group (innoHealth).
emphasises that customers from the United         rate Social Responsibility   Head-quartered in Madrid, Spain, innoHealth’s technology
Kingdom can now also access the entire            (CSR) with the “Sustaina-    platforms screen and combine natural ingredients and
range of solutions offered by the European                                     extracts to generate novel dermocosmetic products with
Schumacher Packaging Group – including                                         synergistic activities. It will be part of Evonik’s Care Solu-
consultation, services and logistics.                                          tions Business Line. This latest acquisition increases the
www.schumacher-packaging.com                                                   company’s ability to develop unique and tailor-made active
                                                                               ingredients and accelerates time to market.
                                                                               www.evonik.com

NEW FACILITIES
NOURYON | Nouryon and Ineos Nitriles have
                                                  The company
                                                  received the EcoVadis        Stronger position
broken ground on new facilities to be built at    award again.
Ineos’ site in Cologne, Germany. The units will                                AZELIS | The company is thrilled to announce that it has
produce raw materials for Nouryon’s readily                                    signed an agreement to acquire 100% shares of CosBond,
biodegradable chelates, used in detergents        bility Leadership Award”     a Chinese specialty chemicals and food ingredients
and other industries. The plants are due to       in the category “Small to    distributor. Headquartered in Hong Kong, it has offices
be completed in 2021 – 2022. Demand for           Medium Enterprises” as
chelates has increased strongly following the     “Best Performer Heavy
European ban on phosphates in consumer            Manufacturing”. Evon-
automatic dishwasher detergents. Chelates in      ik has already received
home and personal care applications are more      Gold Status for its CSR
sustainable than the phosphates they replace.     activities four times in a
www.nouryon.com
                                                  row since 2015.
                                                  www.lipoid-kosmetik.com

                                                                               Azelis acquires CosBond and strengthens position
                                                                               in Chinese personal care market.

                                                                               and warehouses in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Guangzhou and
                                                                               Beijing and represents over 30 renowned global principals,
                                                                               predominantly in personal care industry, followed by fla-
At Ineo’s site in Cologne, Germany,                                            vour and fragrance, food and nutrition and fine chemistry.
new facilities will grow.                                                      www.azelis.com

                                                                                                                            www.cossma.com   l7
"HOW TO INNO- VATE WITHIN A LIMITED LIST OF INCI NAMES" - CORONA CRISIS Sudden changes p 8 - COSSMA
MARKETS & COMPANIES

                 Sudden Changes
                 Crisis | In only a few weeks, the SARS-Cov-2 went
                 from a few infections to a global pandemic. Social
                 as well as business life have changed completely.
                 How are the companies coping?

Xavier Susterac, senior vice presi-
dent Personal Care Europe, BASF
“We are currently experiencing great
teamwork and the will to keep up the
production of personal care products for
daily needs. Our European sites are still
operating. However, we are experiencing
issues with the supply of some raw mate-            Hans Bohnen, chief operating of-
rials and challenges due to logistics or re-        ficer and director, Global Emer-
                                                                                                                           photos: creativeneko/Shutterstock.com, companies

duced personnel. Deliveries may be de-              gency Management, Clariant
layed, and we may not be able to serve all          “In response to the current developments
requested volumes. Despite all this, we are         the Clariant Global Emergency Management
supporting local medical institutions at sev-       (GEM) organisation has issued a strong recom-
eral sites by donations of sanitizers.”             mendation that office workers in Europe, Middle
                                                    East and Africa, North America and Latin America
                                                    work from home or by a split office approach (A/B
                                                    group shifts). In India the government ordered a
                                                    complete shutdown. In Asia-Pacific most sites are
                                                    running, and remote work is recommended. In
                                                    China, our employees have returned to the office
                                                    since 30 March, with the obligation of wearing sur-
                                                    gical masks.”

8l   COSSMA 5 I 2020                                                                                      www.cossma.com
MARKETS & COMPANIES

                                               Staffan Sjöberg, public relation manager, Iggesund
                                               “We are determined to keep production running. Any symptoms qual-
                                              ify employees for paid sick leave. Also, we limited access to production
                                             area, and increased cleaning and disinfection. Basically, we try to min-
                                           imise any manual handling of our products. There is clearly a strong de-
                                       mand for paperboard – even in a crisis. We are keeping our customers informed
                                       on product safety in real time.”

                 Matteo Moretti, president, Lumson
                “Lumson has adopted all possible measures to
             prevent the spread of the virus: the use of PPE,
            sanitisation of the workplace, temperature checks, re-
           organisation of shifts and non-essential departments,
           ‘smart working’. It also supplied all members of staff
           with high-protection masks. Lumson donated 2,000
           protective suits to Ospedale Maggiore di Crema and                                           Tim Eaves, CEO, Quadpack
           supplied masks and medical scrubs to civil protection                                      “With empathy, transparency
           services. We are living through difficult days, both from                         and a spirit of collaboration we face
           the human and work-related point of view, but I’m sure                            the coronavirus crisis. Communication
           that with the contribution of everyone, we’ll be able to                          is key, and we are keeping all stake-
           make it through”.                                                                 holders updated 24/7. We are all in this
                                                                                             together! Most office staff are working
                                                                                             from home and our German factories
                                                                                             are operating with special safety meas-
                                                                                             ures. We are seeing a level of collabo-
                                                                                             ration never seen before. I am proud
                                                                                             to see how the Quadpack family is
                                                                                             facing the current challenges.”

Tony Veer, CEO, The Box
“Both from a personal and
business point of view, we take
as low a risk as possible. This
means very few personal contacts and
cleaning everything. When you enter,
there is a spray to disinfect your hands.
Also, we have given surgical masks to
employees, family and friends. We keep                         Rosa Porras Mansilla, marketing and
the physical distance of 1,5 m minimum                         communication manager, Virospack
all the time. With our team, we try to do                      “Since the beginning of the pandemic, we
damage control, by serving and support-                        took all the necessary security measures to
ing our customers even better than be-                         protect our employees – with extreme disinfection in
fore. Sometimes even at better prices, to                      our facilities, conditioning sections, and common areas
keep the business going for everybody.                         guaranteeing greater distances between workers, post-
We have started suggesting to our cus-                         poning international trips, or avoiding unnecessary
tomers that they use flatter tins, that fit                    contacts by having office staff work from home. Keep-
in the mailbox, so they can send products                      ing these security measures, we have maintained our
at low cost to people who stay at home.”                       activity and continued to meet delivery deadlines. Un-
                                                               fortunately, to curb the high spread of Covid-19, the
                                                               Spanish government has decided to close all non-
                                                               essential business activities from 30 March until 14 of
                                                               April – at least.”

                                                                                                                    www.cossma.com   l9
GO FUTURE

 Active
 Ingredients
 Conscious beauty��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 12
 Colour meets care������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 16
 When aging becomes positive���������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 20
 Bio inspired������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ p 22
 International launches ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 24

                                                                                                                                                         photos:Africa
                                                                                                                                                         photo:        Business/Shutterstock.com
                                                                                                                                                                 LuckyStudio/Shutterstock.com

10 l COSSMA 5 I 2020                                                                                                                    www.cossma.com
www.cossma.com   l 11
GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Conscious Beauty
Ingredients | The demands customers have on their skin care
products have changed. Those who buy anti-aging products are                           INTERVIEW
getting younger and younger. Francesca Pascucci and Volker
Rosenberger also talk about other trends and innovative solutions.                                                            photos and figures: Garnet Photo/Shutterstock, author

            NN Francesca Pascucci             COSSMA: What are the most sig-         ables, but also cosmeceuticals –
                  global marketing manager    nificant consumer trends in            non-invasive but high efficacy, pre-
                  Skin Care                   skincare now?                          mium skincare solutions. At the
                                                                                     same time, though, demand for
                                              Francesca Pascucci: We’ve carried      cleaner, natural, and socially and
                  Volker Rosenberger          out a couple of in-depth market        environmentally responsible skin-
                  global marketing manager    studies in the past 18 months and      care is also growing. Look at the
                  Skin Care, both DSM,
                                              can now see strands from two key       momentum of vegan beauty for
                  Kaiseraugst, Switzerland,
                                              trends coming together. There’s the    example.
                  www.dsm.org/personalcare    trend for medical beauty, with peo-    In a nutshell, thanks to digital tech-
                                              ple willing to embrace cutting-edge    nology, people are becoming more
                                              science and technology to achieve      knowledgeable and more discerning
                                              the looks they desire. This covers     about what goes into their skincare
                                              cosmetic procedures, such as inject-   products. Today’s consumers want

12 l COSSMA 5 I 2020
GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

                                       nised as a “clean” option. What’s            ucts around the age of 47; today, the
                                       more, their design and production            average age is 26. Having noticed
                                       process is highly sustainable, and           this trend, we spoke with consum-
                                       they also meet the criteria for vegan        ers via our Consumer Insights Hub
                                       products.                                    and it became clear that many
                                       At DSM we use molecular model-               younger women assume they will
                                       ling, a tool new to cosmetics. Ini-          age facially in a similar way to their
                                       tially from the world of pharma, mo-         mothers. Some even told us that
                                       lecular modeling identifies the              where they could see mimic and ex-
                                       potential structural features behind         pression lines on their own faces,
                                       a molecule’s biological activity and         their mothers had developed more
                                       takes this as the basis for creating         defined wrinkles.
                                       effective skin care actives. We begin        We found this interesting so decided
                                       by designing and modelling biolog-           to carry out a new study involving
                                       ically relevant molecules in silico,         both women in the 50-65 age group
                                       synthesize them, then test small li-         and in the 21-35 age group, some
                                       braries of compounds to identify the         who were actual mothers and
                                       most effective. This technique re-           daughters, using a tripeptide1. This
                                       duces costs and development time.            active is proven to reduce the ap-
                                       It also helps us understand how              pearance of mimic wrinkles by help-
                                       products perform at the molecular            ing the skin to relax from within.
                                       level, giving us further insights into       Our latest findings show that it can
                                       how different skin actives work              also help delay the progression of
                                       within the skin.                             mimic wrinkles if used at an earlier
                                                                                    stage in life.
                                       Do you see any new potential
                                       for peptides in the anti-ageing              What have been your most excit-
                                       market?                                      ing developments in the field of
                                                                                    skincare?
                                       Francesca Pascucci: One manifesta-
                                       tion of the medical beauty trend is          Volker Rosenberger: We all know that
                                       that information-savvy younger               dealing with dry skin can be an up-
to understand exactly how and why      generations are proactively seeking          hill battle. It’s important to use good
individual actives and ingredients     preventive anti-ageing solutions,            facial and body moisturizers, but it’s
work on the skin. On top of this,      much earlier stage. Baby boomers             equally important to find a proper
broader environmental, health, and     used to start using anti-ageing prod-        cleansing product. The problem is
societal concerns are also influenc-
ing decision making. They require
transparent information about how
sustainably and ethically different
ingredients are sourced or pro-
duced, too. We call this phenome-
non “Conscious Beauty”.

What kind of skincare solutions or
technologies could respond to
these trends?

Francesca Pascucci: Synthetic, small
molecular weight peptides tick most
of the “Conscious Beauty” boxes.
These active compounds have a
known mode of action and deliver
proven results by working within
the skin and mimicking its natural
processes. This makes them an ex-
cellent response to the medical                   figure 1. The comparison between expression
beauty trend, and they are recog-                 marks among daughters and mothers.

                                                                                                                     www.cossma.com   l 13
GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

                                                                                                                       ‘natural glow’ that comes with a
                                                                                                                       suntan, and the appearance of fresh-
                                                                                                                       ness and well-being you have just
                                                                                                                       after a holiday, is something people
                                                                                                                       prize highly. It gives them a confi-
                                                                                                                       dence boost, so they feel they can
                                                                                                                       go without make up, and also has
                                                                                                                       strong associations with looking
                                                                                                                       healthy.
                                                                                                                       Consumers would like to have this
                                                                                                                       look all year round. Although
                                                                                                                       self-tanning products and make-up
                                                                                                                       are options, the results tend to be
                                                                                                                       superficial and don’t look always
                                                                                                                       authentic.
                                                                                                                       Tanned skin is an outcome of mela-
                                                                                                                       nin synthesis, which is a line of de-
                                                                                                                       fence against photo-ageing. So, we
                                                                                                                       decided to see if a peptide could
              figure 2. Result after four weeks in-vivo study with a tripep-tide
                                                                                                                       stimulate the tanning process at the
                                                                                                                       same time as protecting the skin.
              that cleansing can strip moisture                   immediately increase skin hydration                  Our new Pentapeptide3, has a spe-
              from your skin, impair skin barrier                 for 24 hours. We also found that,                    cial amino acid sequence and is a
              function and impact the skin micro-                 even with frequent showering, it                     highly selective agonist of Melano-
              biome balance, leaving skin rough                   helps reinforce the skin’s barrier                   cortin Receptor-1 (MC1R).
              and tight, or maybe even reddened,                  while protecting against dryness.                    We chose it from a library of more
              scaly and itchy. In one of our recent               Francesca Pascucci: We see that pep-                 than ne hundred peptides both for
              surveys, consumers said they want                   tides are appealing to consumers                     its MC1R activation efficacy and
              to find a way to overcome these is-                 because they work with skin’s nat-                   ability to strengthen skin’s natural
              sues and that they are looking for                  ural processes and boost them from                   defences from within, which it does
              effective skin cleansers that also                  within. The results they bring are                   by reducing oxidative stress and
              provide instant and long-lasting                    very effective too, so we’ve been                    boosting DNA repair.It has been
              moisturization after use.                           looking for new applications beyond                  proven ex-vivo and in-vivo, with
              We have carried out some new stud-                  the anti-ageing market.                              clinical tests showing that it pro-
              ies with a natural moisturizer re-                  From speaking to consumers via our                   motes a visible glow and provides a
              nowned for its moisture-magnet                      Consumer Insights Hub, and based                     healhty complexion in just five days.
              properties. Our findings prove that                 on a survey of more than 6,000 re-                   These results are long-lasting too,
              common skin cleansing formula-                      spondents men and women across                       with the benefits still visible at ten
              tions containing this Moisturizer1                  the globe, we’ve learned that the                    and twenty days.

              figure 3. In vivo the pentapeptide delivers visible healthy tone in just five days with long-lasting effect.

14 l COSSMA 5 I 2020                                                                                                                           www.cossma.com
What are your latest findings in the field of the facial mi-
crobiome?

Volker Rosenberger: The skin microbiome has a lot of reso-
nance with consumers interested in more natural approaches
to skin care. As a beauty concept it’s certainly gaining trac-
tion; you only need to look at the growing number of cos-
metic products making specific reference to it, and the many
launches of prebiotic, probiotic and postbiotic ingredients.
There are still many questions to explore, though, about
how the skin interacts with its microbiota and which as-                             Slow Age
                                                                              für sensible Haut
pects of these interactions are most relevant to the world of
skin care. At DSM, we’ve combined our knowledge and ex-
pertise in skin microbiology and skin science in a unique
epidermal microbiome beauty approach4 which focuses on
the interplay between the epidermis and the skin microbi-
ome in order to explore new ways to preserve, reinforce,
and restore healthy skin at its root.
                                                                   Schützt vor den schädigenden
In 2018, for the first time in a single clinical study, our sci-     Einflüssen des EXPOSOMS
entists demonstrated a link between changes in the compo-
sition of the skin microbiome and changes in normal, dry                    auf die Haut.
and oily skin. This research focused on three bacterial spe-
cies which have an important impact on these skin condi-             ❖ Sichtbar weniger Entzündungen.
tions (Cutibacterium Acnes, Staphylococcus Epidermidis
and Corynebacterium Kroppenstedii) and their distribution                ❖ Sichtbar weniger Falten.
on skin before and after application of one of three actives
in our current portfolio5. Our study found that treatment
                                                                        ❖ Sofortige Hautberuhigung.
with these actives could have a beneficial effect on the skin
barrier in normal, dry and oily skin. These effects were as-
sociated with changes in levels of one or more of the three
                                                                    00                         028
bacteria.

What potential do you see in the skin microbiome for the
development of new ingredients?

Volker Rosenberger: It is a real opportunity for innovation.
Our findings so far certainly point to promising potential
for next generation skin care. We also see potential in pro-
biotic skincare solutions. Last year DSM took an investment
in and began collaborating with S-Biomedic, working with
live bacteria to develop products and treatments for skin
disorders and has developed a programme focusing on ac-
ne-prone skin. In terms of the market, all the evidence from
our trends research suggests that the microbiome will be-
come a skincare segment in its own right. Several of DSM’s
actives have been tested against these criteria and awarded
this quality mark. We’re delighted with this, because as
well as providing formal recognition of our innovation in
                                                                   ❖ Beugt Exposom induzierter Zellalterung vor.
this field, “Microbiome Friendly” is a label end consumers
will be able to relate to. As this segment becomes more es-              ❖ Reduziert neurogene Entzündungen.
tablished, it’s also reassuring for our customers that DSM is
ready, with microbiome skincare solutions.Q
                                                                               ❖ Stärkt die Hautbarriere.
                                                                           ❖ Bringt das Mikrobiom wieder ins
References                                                                          Gleichgewicht.
1. Syn-Ake
2. Pentavtin
3. Syn-Glow
4. Epibiome Beauty

                                                                                                        ...
5. Oxy 229 PF, Syn-up and Alpaflor Alp-Sebum

                                                                   Besuchen Sie uns auf der
                                                                                                       ��
                                                                   in–cosmetics in Barcelona          �
                                                                       am Stand M58!                    �IOTECHNOLOGIES

                                                                   www.greentechgmbh.de              GREENTECH
GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Colour meets care
Ingredients | Nowadays, it’s no longer enough for make-up to
perfect the skin’s appearance on the surface. Customers expect
active ingredients to care for their skin at a deeper level. Dr Sarah
Pütsch explains what is suitable for use in colour cosmetics.
                                                                                                                                    Photos and figures: Jag_cz/Shutterstock.com, author

                                                     C
             NN Dr Sarah Christina Pütsch,                   olour cosmetics have gained     mous potential, popularity and mar-
                  technical marketing lead, Croda,           enormous popularity and         ket strength.Lip and facial make-up
                  Nettetal, Germany,                         further growth of this market   were the most dynamic segments
                  www.sederma.com                    is projected for the coming years       with the highest growth projected
                                                     (SpecialChem, 2017). Currently,         within the next five years (Euromon-
                                                     South Korea as the trend setter for     itor International, 2019).
                                                     colour cosmetics and a lot of beauty    With consumer demand for make-up
                                                     trends from this country have entered   with skin care benefits increasing,
                                                     the Euopean market. In 2017, about      there are numerous opportunities for
                                                     two thirds of all cosmetic products     cosmetic manufacturers to promote
                                                     launched in South Korea were colour     the hybridisation of make-up and
                                                     cosmetics, emphasizing their enor-      skin care. The concept is high per-

16 l COSSMA 5 I 2020
GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

forming make-up, going beyond sim-        acid, have a structure like hyaluronic                            Another active offering excellent
ply covering and concealing to really     acid fragments. They stimulate the                                moisturising benefits and which can
taking care of the skin.                  neosynthesis of the skin`s own hya-                               be easily incorporated into powder
For example, due to the increasing        luronic acid and helps to deliver op-                             make-up is “Vegesome moist 24” that
concerns about environmental ag-          timal moisturising and viscoelastic                               is a powder composed of hollow par-
gressions, make-up could act as an-       properties by sustaining its turnover.                            ticles from Lycopodium clavatum,
other layer of protection through the     Furthermore, they increase the syn-                               which are filled with an extract of
incorporation of active ingredients,      thesis of elastin and smoothe the                                 Imperata cylindrica possessing mois-
which would provide hydration and         skin`s microrelief within a few weeks                             turising properties. The active ingre-
protection against pollution. In addi-    of application by reducing fine lines                             dient is progressively released to pro-
tion, consumers are constantly striv-     and wrinkles (figure 1).                                          cure moisturising effect lasting at
ing for a more natural look.

Colour and hydration
For make-up products, skin hydration
is an essential element to achieving
a flawless, healthy-looking skin. One
hydrating active facing the trend
around hyaluronic acid, is “Optim
Hyal”. Since the half-life of hyalu-
ronic acid is less than one day and its
synthesis decreases with age, it is
essential to trigger the hyaluronic
acid renewal. Products with oligosac-
                                          Figure 1: After only one month of twice daily application of a cream containing 3% “Optim hyal”, the skin`s microrelief is
charides from acetylated glucuronic       smoothened and the skin appears healthy and well hydrated.

                                                                                                                                                                www.cossma.com   l 17
GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

              least two hours, while the empty cap-
              sules can absorb excess sebum from
              the skin surface to mattify the com-
              plexion.
              In vivo experiments performed with
              twelve female volunteers with a
              mean age of 45.9 years showed that
              the application of a powder contain-
              ing 1% of the active ingredient en-
              hances skin moisturisation within
              one hour after application. This ef-
              fect is better and more prominent
              two hours after application. Skin
              moisturisation was significantly im-
              proved in comparison with the pla-
              cebo and skin roughness was visibly
              reduced.
              “Vegesome moist 24” works well as
              an ingredient to be formulated in
              powder make-up, such as bronzing
              powders, face powders or eye
              shadow, providing an exceptional
              velvety touch together with im-
              mediate moisturising and mattifying
              properties.

              Concealing and reducing
              wrinkles
              Focusing on the increasing consumer
              demand for anti-ageing products to
              allow dignified and graceful ageing,
              a novel powder has been designed
              for colour cosmetics applications.
              This eco-designed ingredient is a
              pure lyophilised plant cell culture ex-
              tract of Leontopodium alpinum
                                                          Figure 2: Before using pure lyophilised plant cell culture of Leontopodium alpinum and after two months of application of a
              (Edelweiss), which can be easily in-        loose powder containing 0.03%.

              corporated into make-up powders to
              provide anti-ageing benefits. It exerts
              a lifting effect to the skin, especially
              around eyes and lips, can reduce fine       around eyes and lips. In addition, due                           as the butterfly-bush, responds to the
              lines and wrinkles and significantly        to its antioxidant properties, it pro-                           specific beauty concerns of olive
              enhances the skin isotropy.                 vides protection against pollution                               complexions. These are associated
              A clinical study confirmed that the         and sun damage.                                                  with skin phototypes III to V and
              application of a loose powder con-                                                                           need specific care, since they tend to
              taining 0.03% of “Majestem drypure”         Luminosity of the skin                                           be hypersensitive and are prone to
              for two months leads to a visible re-       Regarding the consumers` desire for                              inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
              duction of fine lines and wrinkles          a more homogenous and more lumi-                                 Due to its anti-oxidative, anti-inflam-
              and smoothing of the skin texture           nous complexion, a plant cell culture                            matory and pigmentation control
              (figure 2). The skin appears lifted         extract of Buddleja Davidii, known                               properties, the active ingredient “Am-
                                                                                                                           berstem” reduces inflammatory hy-
                                                                                                                           perpigmentation, dullness and red-
                                                                                                                           ness. It also reinforces the skin barrier

            “Skin Hydration is an essential element to                                                                     and improves hydration.
                                                                                                                           A clinical study confirmed that it

             achieve flawless, healthy-looking skin.”                                                                      fades dark areas and reduces skin
                                                                                                                           redness. Most of the volunteers per-
             Dr Sarah Christina Pütsch, technical marketing lead, Croda International                                      ceived a decrease in the intensity of

18 l COSSMA 5 I 2020                                                                                                                                             www.cossma.com
Photos: AdobeStock: Valua Vitaly, BillionPhotos.com, FotolEdhar
Figure 3: Before and after twice daily application of a lip balm containing
1% “Volulip” for one month.

dark areas and found their skin to be more luminous and                                                                                         TURN
                                                                                                                                                TRENDS INTO
well moisturised. The active ingredient can be incorporated
into any type of facial care, make-up, sun and after-sun
products.

                                                                                                                                                BUSINESS!
Sebum regulation is also an essential aspect for end con-
sumers to mattify their complexion. Women, as well as men,
strive for an even complexion without uncomfortable skin
shine caused by excess sebum flow.
An active ingredient, “Evermat”, that associates Enantia
chlorantha extract and oleanolic acid decreases the sebum                                                                                       More than 400 suppliers present
production and refines the skin grain. By inhibiting the
5a-reductase activity it provides a reduction in sebum flow
                                                                                                                                                the latest trends in ingredients,
and consequently a less oily skin. Furthermore, it reduces                                                                                      manufacturing, packaging and
skin shine as well as the pore size, thus refining the skin
texture. The reduction in sebum flow and skin shine is no-
                                                                                                                                                service.
table: the skin is mattified and the pore size is visibly re-
duced. The active ingredient is suitable for any type of facial
care product to reduce skin shine, dilated pores or oily skin
and can be incorporated into foundations, camouflage
creams or make-up fixing and mattifying sprays.

Lucky Lips
Another popular and dynamic make-up segment is lip
make-up. For that, every conceivable colour can be com-
bined with an active ingredient that hydrates the lips and/
or provides a volumizing effect. “Volulip”, a combination
of Portulaca pilosa extract and a dioxygenated peptide can
improve the lip texture and exerts a plumping effect. In vivo
studies revealed a visible impact on the lip shape and cur-
vature. After one month of application, an increase of the
lip volume, hydration and softness could be seen
(figure 3).
There is a broad range of high-performance active ingredi-                                                                                                  International trade show of the
ents with numerous proven skin care benefits that can                                                                                                       cosmetics supplying industry
easily be incorporated into make-up products. They respond
to the current demands of end consumers for make-up prod-
ucts that not only cover the skin but bring multi-purpose,
                                                                                                                                                30.09. - 01.10.2020, MOC MUNICH
caring properties, which deeply and visibly improve the
skin`s condition and appearance for a flawless, natural and                                                                                     www.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair
glowing complexion.                                       Q
GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

           INTERVIEW

                  When aging becomes positive
                  Trends | The generation over 50 no longer occupies a marginal position in the
                  cosmetics industry. Good and healthy aging are the key words today. Maud
                  Merlini talks about what this target groups wants and what its skin needs.
                                                                                                                                photos: Martina Ebel, Damsea/Shutterstock.com, author

             NN Maud Merlini                   COSSMA: The view of the topic of        brands are now talking about “slow
                  inspirational marketing,     “anti-ageing” has changed. What         ageing” and “ageing well”, in the
                  manager, Cologne, Germany,   exactly is different now?               press. Young women are also making
                  www.seppic.com                                                       a little more room for their elders
                                               Maud Merlini: In the past ten years,    (fifty years and above).
                                               the perspective of the cosmetics in-    This is the pro-age trend, which we
                                               dustry on the topic of “anti-ageing”    interpret as a move away from the
                                               has changed quite a bit. Trends agen-   beauty ideal that was defined by eter-
                                               cies advise to accompany ageing,        nal youth.

20 l COSSMA 5 I 2020
GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

                                          acceptance can be seen, for example,      aging. Our extract from the red sea-
                                          in the rehabilitation of certain signs    weed Asparagopsis armata protects
                                          of aging such as “happy wrinkles” or      the skin from endogenous stress us-
                                          silver hair. Consumers also expect        ing a unique approach; it controls
                                          fewer overpromises and more realis-       contagious ageing (in vitro). Ageing
                                          tic benefits from brands.                 leads to an excess of senescent cells
                                          When we look closely at women             characterised by functional and mor-
                                          aged 50 years and over, they form a       phological modifications. These cells
                                          significant and increasing demo-          also produce a “Senescence Messag-
                                          graphic group for the beauty market,      ing Secretome” (SMS), affecting
                                          with a real purchasing power. What        neighbouring young cells and accel-
                                          do they want? They expect products        erating the signs of ageing. The ex-
                                          designed specifically to answer to        tract of Asparagopsis armata regu-
                                          their changing skin conditions, for       lates the impact of SMS in order to
                                          example related to menopause.             reduce the contagious aging effect on
                                          Also, when we take a look at younger      young cells. It protects young cells
                                          consumers we observe that they            from senescence induced by SMS.
                                          change their attitude towards ageing
                                          and start using anti-ageing products      “Healthy ageing” instead of “an-
                                          earlier. Indeed, a study conducted in     ti-ageing” - what does this mean
                                          the UK reports that among 5,000           for customers’ care routine and
                                          women, 62.4% think now that “an-          way of life?
                                          ti-age” consists of “preventing” the
                                          effects of skin ageing2, rather than      In terms of way of life, “healthy age-
                                          trying to correct them.                   ing” having a more holistic approach
                                                                                    to beauty. For example, consumers
                                          Which active ingredients are cur-         are aware of a connection between
                                          rently setting trends and what are        diet and appearance and pairing up
                                          they doing?                               traditional cosmetics with edible
                                                                                    products can be a great opportunity.
                                          Facing these new consumers expec-         To support brands in this direction,
                                          tations, brands must both adapt their     we can offer a patented complex of
                                          marketing speech and change their         plant-based ceramides that maintains
                                          strategy of active choice to enter in a   a healthy skin with moisturizing and
                                          “pro age” strategy.                       antioxidant action, for both topical
                                          Some brands work on a less negative       and edible applications. Of course,
                                          approach towards ageing by promot-        the basic trio routine – cleanser, se-
                                          ing fewer corrective benefits, such as    rum, cream – is here to stay, but
If the ideal of beauty for women          improving complexion glow and con-        beauty supplements can enrich cus-
over 50 is no longer perfect, youth-      cealing skin tone imperfections.          tomer’s skin care routine.         Q
ful skin, what do they expect from        To value women over 50 years old –
their care products now?                  formerly side-lined in the cosmetics
                                          sector – brands can design products       References
                                                                                    (1) Philips Global Beauty survey – 2017, with more than
We notice that the perception of          specifically for mature skin. With             10,000 women.

beauty has shifted over the years and     age, skin loses its integrity. The me-    (2) ‘Skin Thinking’ study conducted on 4,963 British
                                                                                         women aged from 18 to over 60 years (2018)
tends toward a more emancipated           tabolism slows down and it doesn’t
vision. For instance, in 2017, a study    allow the skin barrier to be main-
revealed that among more than             tained anymore. When this occurs,
10,000 women questioned, 70%              the skin loses both moisture and
think that beauty is something that       firmness; it becomes dehydrated and
you define yourself1.                     wrinkles appear. Centella asiatica is
One of the first expectations is a        a trendy ingredient to care for mature
change in the communication of            skin as it can regenerate the natural
brands on anti-ageing products. Age-      skin barrier. For those who look to
ing is inevitable; women are fighting     protect the youth capital, antioxidant
less and less against time flying. They   ingredients are commonly used.
                                                                                    The extract of red seaweed Asparagopsis
claim the right to be beautiful and       However many brands are also look-        armata helps to protect younger cells from
feel well, whatever their age. This       ing for new approaches in preventive      senescence.

                                                                                                                                        www.cossma.com   l 21
GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

                                                         Bio inspired
                                                         Research | Probiotics are well known for having a
                                                         positive influence on health. Recently, scientists set
                                                         their focus on postbiotics, their bioactive metabolites.
                                                         Following the natural model with jojoba, scientists have
                                                         achieved special results for dry skin.

            NN Mélanie Coirier                           biotechnologies to bioguide the pro-         gredients that selectively stimulate
                  communication officer                  duction of a natural postbiotic capable      the growth and/or activity of “good
                                                         of addressing dry skin issues using a        bacteria” that may improve the
                                                         biomimetic approach.                         health of the host;
                                                                                                    • Postbiotics, literally “after the pro-
                  Pauline Rouaud-Tinguely                Definition of pro- pre- and                  biotic”, are non-viable bacterial
                  Innovation Management                  postbiotics                                  products or bioactive metabolites
                  project leader, both Silab, Saint      From the scientific discoveries on the       generated by probiotic microorgan-
                  Viance, France                         human microbiota appeared the no-            isms which bring benefits to the
                  www.silab.fr                           tions of probiotics, prebiotics and          host.
                                                         postbiotics. The knowledge of the pre-     First described and used for the treat-
                                                         cise terminology is very important for     ment of intestinal disorders and gen-

             O
                        ver the past ten years, scien-   those who decide to work on these          eral health, the concepts of probiotics
                        tists have made enormous         new concepts. Here are some key defi-      and resulting postbiotics are now oc-
                        progress in the understanding    nitions, according to the literature and   curring in cosmetic industry4.
              of the role of the microbial flora on      the World Health Organisation
              health. This progress has led to the       (WHO)1, 2:                                 From bio-inspiration to
              emergence of new therapeutic strate-       • Probiotics are living microorgan-        bioconversion
              gies based on the use of probiotics           isms such as Lactobacilli or Bifido-    The most well-known probiotic be-
                                                                                                                                               photos and figures: New Africa/Shutterstock.com, authors

              (defined as good bacteria), and more          bacteria that, when administrated       longs to the genus Lactobacillus. For
              recently of postbiotics, a set of bioac-      in sufficient quantities, have posi-    the development of its new care prod-
              tive metabolites produced by probiot-         tive effects on the host’s health.      uct for dry skin, Silab’s research teams
              ics. First related to the food industry       They are more commonly known            got specifically interested in Lactoba-
              and gut health, these microorganisms          as “good bacteria”. It is very impor-   cillus (L.) arizonensis a plant probi-
              are now an area of research in the            tant to notice that a new term          otic highly adaptable to desert cli-
              cosmetic industry. As one of the first        called paraprobiotic recently ap-       mates. Indeed, it colonises jojoba, a
              companies, Silab became interested            peared and refers to dead or lysed      shrub growing in extreme drought
              in the idea of transposing their bene-        microorganisms3;                        conditions, such as those of the Ari-
              ficial effects to the skin. The company    • Prebiotics, literally “before the pro-   zona desert. In order to ensure its
              thus applied its expertise in mastering       biotic”, are non-digestible food in-    survival, this good bacterial species

22 l COSSMA 5 I 2020
GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

(= probiotic) bio converts molecules                                                    at the cell level all support cosmetics
of its host into bioactive metabolites,                                                 benefits.
more commonly called postbiotics.                                                       Indeed, the results of in vivo tests
This ability to modify its metabolism to                                                demonstrated that after 28 days of
its environment provides it with a re-                                                  twice-daily application to the face of
markable adaptation capacity and is                                                     Caucasian volunteers with dry skin,
the reason for its nickname of “natu-                                                   active molecules at 1% maintain the
ral metabolic engineer”.                                    before treatment            microbiota’s equilibrium and revital-
In this context, Silab’s team decided                                                   ises renewal of the cutaneous barrier.
to use its historical expertise in bio-                                                 Hydration is improved (+16.2%) and
technologies and microbiota in order                                                    complexion radiance is revived, as
to reproduce in-house the specific nat-                                                 shown by increased reflection by the
ural environment of L. arizonensis. As                                                  skin (+7.4%; P < 0.01). This dual
expected, adding jojoba to the culture                                                  hydrating/complexion booster effect
medium has mimicked the existing                                                        was also seen on the face of Asian
                                                          after treatment +16.2%
partnership between this bacterium                                                      volunteers, to a significant degree.
and its substrate, thus allowing to bi-      Effect on hydration of the skin of
oguide the production of postbiotics         Caucasian volunteers (hands).              Conclusion
rich in active molecules of cyclic poly-                                                With science as its driver for innova-
ols-type.                                                                               tion, Silab combined its expertise in
Interestingly, these molecules were          modelling mimicking dry skin, which        mastering natural products, biotech-
specifically identified by analytical        enabled it to demonstrate the altera-      nologies and microbiota to develop a
laboratory as highly interesting due to      tion of the skin barrier function and      biosinspired, natural active ingredi-
their biomimetic action and particu-         to prove that its active ingredient re-    ent. This patented biotech active
larly their ability to improve the qual-     activates its integrity. More precisely,   (INCI name: Maltodextrin and Lacto-
ity of dry skin. Indeed, these cyclic        this was done by developing a novel        bacillus Ferment) is recommended in
polyols (identified through a metabo-        in vitro 3D model of reconstructed         all care products for dry skin, availa-
lomics study by UPLC-MS/MS) are              epidermis subjected to a water stress,     ble as a powder without preservatives
osmoregulating molecules known to            induced by incubation in an atmos-         (recommended amount: 0.1 to 1%)
play a fundamental role in adjusting         phere of 40% humidity (vs. 82%) for        and compliant with international cos-
osmotic pressure in plants. In drought       three consecutive days.                    metic regulations (Europe, United
conditions, they participate in maintain-    Through this modelling study, the          States, Japan, China, etc.).Q
ing the water status of the plant, in turn   postbiotic was proven to boost the
                                                                                        References
contributing to preserving its active        mechanisms inherent in establishing an
metabolism. Such metabolites present         effective barrier function, thereby lim-   1. Watson RR, Preedy VR. Probiotics, Prebiotics, and Synbiot-
                                                                                            ics: Bioactive Foods in Health Promotion. Academic Press.
a suitable molecular profile to treat        iting the effects of epidermal dehydra-        940 pp. (2015)

skin dryness.                                tion, with the improvement of the dif-     2. Patel RM, Denning PW. Clin. Perinatol. 40(1):11. (2013)
Produced at industrial scale, the su-        ferentiation process and epidermal         3. de Almada CN, Almada CN, Martinez RCR, Sant’Ana AS.
pernatant was used as natural raw            cohesion and the activation of the li-         Trends Food Sci. Technol. 58:96. (2016)

material to concentrate active mole-         pid cement formation. These actions        4. Markowiak P, Śliżewska K. Nutrients. 9(9): (2017)

cules by a patented process.

                                                                                                                                   ADVERTISEMENT
A natural solution
Dry skin is a common disorder that is
marked by several symptoms includ-
ing discomfort, excessive desquama-
tion and the appearance of unsightly
irregularities. These manifestations
are the result of an alteration of the
skin barrier function, caused by a
number of factors (deterioration of
the epidermal differentiation and co-
hesion, defect in the formation of the
lipid cement and transepidermal wa-
ter loss).
To determine the efficacy of the ob-
tained active ingredient on dry skin,
the company developed an in-house

                                                                                                                                               www.cossma.com   l 23
GO FUTURE: NEW IDEAS

Product development | This month, Mintel presents active ingredients. Many
Manufacturers currently focus on certain ingredients that have a strong
potency and different effects on the skin.

              N
                       owadays, most customers
                       expect products that prom-
                                                         CeraVe                                    BRTC
                       ise quick and clearly visible
                                                         Dermatologically developed:               The peeling pad features
                results. Therefore, new and well-        “Resurfacing Retinol Serum”.              two different sites.
                known ingredients are researched
                and used accordingly.

                Help for irritated skin
                The “Doctor Babor Pro” range in-
                cludes BA Boswellia Concentrate,
                which is claimed to provide a calmer
                and more even complexion, enhan-
                cing the barrier function of irritated
                skin, thanks to Boswellia extract with
                anti-inflammatory effects. The vegan
                and pH optimal product is free from
                fragrance and synthetic colourants.

                Vitamin booster
                La Roche-Posay “Pure Vitamin C10
                Serum” is described as an anti-wrin-     even and refined, while the skin re-      Intense cleaning
                kle, antioxidant renovating serum        gaining its full radiance. It features    As a part of the BRTC “Multi-Vital 10
                that makes skin feel instantly softer,   a light, fast-absorbing texture at a      System” range, the “V10 Peeling Pad”
                more hydrated and glowing, while re-     physiological pH that leaves a vel-       is described as a purifying moistu-
                ducing wrinkles and fine lines. The      vety, non-greasy finish. Suitable for     rer that helps remove dead skin,
                serum is said to make skin texture       sensitive skin, it is formulated with     while supplying essence to instantly
                and tone appearing more uniform,         the key ingredients pure vitamin C        restore radiance. Formulated with
                                                         and the peptide neurosensine.             centella asiatica extract, PHA and
                                                                                                   bergamot fruit oil, the pads have
                                                         The power of ceramides                    completed skin irritation tests. The
                                                         CeraVe “Resurfacing Retinol Serum”        pad features two sides for different
Dr Babor Pro                 La Roche-Posay              contains three essential ceramides        functions: bumpy embossing, for se-
Bosswelia extract with       The serum is suitable       (1, 3 and 6-11), encapsulated reti-       bum control, exfoliation, makeup re-
anti-inflammatory effects.   for sensitive skin.         nol, licorice root extract and niacina-   mover and soft, smooth cotton, for
                                                         mide said to reduce the appearance        moisturising, smoothing, and texture
                                                         of post-acne marks and pores, restore     improvement.                      Q
                                                         the protective skin barrier and im-
                                                         prove skin smoothness. The patented
                                                         MVE technology provides controlled
                                                         release of ingredients. The serum is
                                                         also claimed to brighten, resurface
                                                         the skin for a refined appearance and                   NN Michelle Strutton,
                                                                                                                      global research
                                                         a healthy look without causing dry-                          manager Beauty & ­
                                                                                                                                               photos: Mintel

                                                         ness. The non-comedogenic and der-                           Personal Care,
                                                         matologically developed product is                           Mintel, London, UK,
                                                         free from parabens and fragrance.                            www.mintel.com

24 l COSSMA 5 I 2020                                                                                                          www.cossma.com
COSSMA HAS THE ANSWER.
    STAY UP-TO-DATE.

           WWW.COSSMA.COM/BLUE

  GLOBAL TRENDS IN PACKAGING,
 INGREDIENTS AND DISTRIBUTION.
26 l COSSMA 5 I 2020
   www.cossma.com
                       photos:SUWIT
                       photo:         Studio/Shutterstock.com
                               Africa NGAOKAEW/Shutterstock.com
INGREDIENTS
What skin microbiome can ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 28
Better sleep - better skin������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 32
Formulations: Natural cosmetics �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 34

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What skin microbiome can
Research | More and more cosmetics ingredients want to improve
the skin by effecting the skin microbiome. But what is the micro-
biome and how is it composed? Dr Bernd Becker gives an overview.

             NN Dr Bernd Becker                      been developed by targetting skin's          Without contest, the skin microbi-
                  MolCareConsulting,                 microbiome.                                  ome is a full player in our beauty and
                                                                                                                                           Photos: Kateryna Kon, solar22/Shutterstock.com

                  Wiesent, Germany,                  The microflora, or microbiota as we          well-being. But how do we assess
                  www.molcare-consulting.com         call it more precisely, is in fact the as-   this? How do we evaluate the impact
                                                     semblage of microorganisms present           of a cosmetic active ingredient or a
                                                     in a defined environment.                    finished product for consumers on
                                                     The human microbiota is composed             the stratum microbium?

             D
                     eodorants were the first cos-   of a large diversity of bacteria, yeasts,    In our company we master both skills
                     metic products developed to     fungi and other viruses, and their to-       equally, with a particular know-how
                     influence our skin micro-       tal number is estimated to be 10,000         on cutaneous microbiota sample col-
              biota, reducing axillary malodours     different species8.                          lection, as well as proprietary data-
              liberated by decomposition of          Microbes on our skin also communi-           bases of genes that are exploited with
              apocrine sweat. In addition, new       cate with our body9, and in particular       home-made bioinformatics pipelines.
              therapies to treat atopic dermatitis   play an important role in our im-            Indeed, after many years spent in
              or rosacea, or even dandruff, have     mune system10.                               developing procedures and databases

28 l COSSMA 5 I 2020                                                                                                      www.cossma.com
INGREDIENTS

to explore soil and gut microbiomes,     colon is obligatory for many healthy        The complete list of
our focus is now on skin meta-           and pleasant issues. A healthy colon        references you find at
genomics techniques13, 14.               is necessary for a good body mass           www.cossma.com
                                         index, happy feelings and also good         web code: 100381
Impact of colon's microbiota on          skin, leading to a glowing complex-
the skin                                 ion, fewer pustules, full hair, less al-
The passage between colon and skin       lergic reactions and the alleviation of
is well known. The skin does not stop    many skin diseases.                        These increased androgens lead to
at the lips; the skin of the face con-   With the lips the skin is not only         an increase in sebum expressing in
tinues inward throughout the com-        putting over the skin of the face and      greasy skin and hair. Simul-
plete digestive system. Skin and the     backing the mouth but is covering          taneously, the follicles are blocked by
colon mucosa are in direct and tight     as mucosa the complete digestive           terminally differentiated dead kerat-
connection.                              tract. The skin as well as the colon       inocytes, the horn cells, which causes
Of interest is the flora of the colon.   mucosa define the borderlines be-          a black head.
The microbiota of the colon not only     tween our environment and our bod-         Microbiota from the skin flora, par-
decides about a thick or thin body       ies, the inside protecting us from         ticularly the so-called Propionibacte-
but very often about the health          harmful impacts outside.                   rium acnes proliferate very rapidly
status, as well.                                                                    and provoke an inflammatory reac-
The colon's “long arm” reaches far       The rise of acne                           tion of the follicle15.
inside, influencing nearly every or-     Acne is a disease of the sebaceous         The compounds of the skin flora are
gan of the body. The colon behaves       glands with purulent pustules and          permanently changed and regularly
like a helpful and outgoing friend in    blackheads. This skin disease is           complemented, for example by shak-
a lot of ways.                           provoked and continued by many             ing hands.
The microbiota produces messenger        factors.                                   Microbiota are regularly exchanged
molecules and hormones and also          During adolescence there is an in-         between humans. Just the incredibly
coach the immune cells. The healthy      crease of androgens in the blood.          large number and diversity of micro-

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“The skin is a dynamic ecosystem inhabited by                                                             Regulatory T (Treg) cells play a crit-
                                                                                                          ical role in establishing and maintain-

 bacteria, archaea, fungi and viruses.”                                                                   ing immune homeostasis in periph-
                                                                                                          eral tissues. In the colon, the
Dr Bernd Becker, MolCare Consulting                                                                       commensals themselves facilitate
                                                                                                          generation of peripherally induced
                                                                                                          Treg cells that are critical for proper
                                                                                                          immune homeostasis.
                                                                                                          A defined period of neonatal life is
              organisms on our skin protect against           products. Many studies have demon-          characterised by an abrupt influx of
              harmful pathogens.                              strated, that polyphenols effectively       highly activated regulatory T (Treg)
                                                              absorb harmful substances, for exam-        cells into neonatal skin.
              Colon and inflammation                          ple free radicals, and support and          During this developmental window,
              Inflammation is a very important                increase the intrinsic protection           the host-commensal relationship in
              function of the immune system. It               mechanisms of the skin against              the skin relies on a unique treg cell
              protects against pathogens, trying to           sunlight (UV-radiation), delaying the       population that mediates tolerance to
              enter the body.                                 formation of wrinkles and senile            bacterial antigens18.
              It is an interesting observation, that,         lentigo.
              before diseases and strong inflamma-            Polyphenols help with their dichotomy       The Microbiome and
              tions occur, there is a decrease of             between their biotransformation to          Anti-ageing
              bacterial diversity often weeks,                their metabolites and modulation of         A study published in 2017 by Han
              months or even years before the dis-            colon`s microbiota to improve               describes the influence of the micro-
              ease occurs.                                    health16.                                   bial composition on ageing. They
              Harmful bacteria can spread more                Most of the polyphenols pass to-            found that certain bacterial genes
              easily and suppress protecting micro-           gether with the food into the small         and compounds can slow the
              biota. Correlation has been found be-           intestine without being absorbed.           progression of tumors and the accu-
              tween neurodermitis, allergies and              They reach the colon and influence          mulation of Amyloid-beta, a com-
              diabetes. It has been shown that, dur-          the colon's microbiome17, leading to        pound associated with Alzheimer’s
              ing normal ageing, the colon’s flora            reciprocal connection and interaction       disease. The study’s researchers posit
              deteriorates to an impotent and tedi-           between polyphenols and the colon           that, eventually, slowing down the
              ous monoculture.                                microbiome.                                 ageing process entirely may be pos-
                                                              The skin is a site of constant dialog be-   sible with supplements derived from
              What polyphenols can achieve                    tween the immune system and com-            gut bacteria21.
              for the skin                                    mensal bacteria. The skin is the inter-     The skin is a dynamic ecosystem in-
              Polyphenols are secondary com-                  action area between commensal skin          habited by a lot of different skin
              pounds from plants responsible for              microbes fundamental to skin phys-          microbes (bacteria, archaea, fungi
              the colour, taste and smell of food             iology and immunity.                        and viruses) which are fundamental
                                                                                                          to skin physiology and immunity.
                                                                                                          The skin is replete in diverse and un-
                                                                                                          usual lipids not found elsewhere in
                                                                                                          the body22, 23.
                                                                                                          Some of these lipids, such as sapienic
                                                                                                          acid, have antimicrobial activities,
                                                                                                          while others, such as triglycerides,
                                                                                                          are then metabolised by microbes
                                                                                                          into free fatty acids and di- and
                                                                                                          monoglycerides that can be bioactive
                                                                                                          against other microbes or stimulatory
                                                                                                          to host cells24, 25.
                                                                                                          Sanford and colleagues showed that
                                                                                                          short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs) pro-
                                                                                                          duced by microbes colonising the
                                                                                                          skin's surface lead to the inhibition
                                                                                                          of the histone deacetylase (HDAC)
                                                                                                          activity. It is known from microbes
                                                                                                          that populate the intestinal tract pro-
                                                                                                          duce high levels of SCFAs that inhibit
              One factor that can trigger acne is an imbalance in the skin microbiome.                    HDAC activity26-28.

30 l COSSMA 5 I 2020                                                                                                              www.cossma.com
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