"HOW TO INNO- VATE WITHIN A LIMITED LIST OF INCI NAMES" - CORONA CRISIS Sudden changes p 8 - COSSMA
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www.cossma.com | E51280 5 / 2020
CORONA CRISIS
Sudden changes
p8
INGREDIENTS
When aging
becomes positive
p 20
“HOW TO INNO-
VATE WITHIN
A LIMITED LIST
OF INCI NAMES”
Joel Mantelin, Vice President
Ashland
p 58
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EDITORIAL
Sudden changes
D
ue to SARS-CoV-2, the whole world seems to becoming dislocated. Govern- FOLLOW COSSMA ON:
ments are trying to contain the spread as quickly as possible with a varie-
ty of measures. These restrictions, however, affect us and our industry very
much. No trade fairs can take place, dates which were scheduled are already being
postponed. In some countries, only those companies which can continue to work
where employees are able to work in homeoffice. Unemployment and econom- www.cossma.com
ic crises threaten. Are there only horror reports left? No, not at all. New dates for
exhibitions are already being communicated, giving a little visibility in an uncer-
tain time. There are companies who have switched theirproduction from person-
al care to desinfectants, supplying their local hospitals. There are also those who
www.linkedin.com/company/cossma-digital
have made their protective equipment available to medical personnel. In private,
music is played on balconies and children paint rainbows on the windows. A ray of
hope, I think. As bad as this pandemic is and as terrible as it is to mourn the many
deaths, these examples of generosity bring our humanity back to light.
Let us continue to stand together, take care of each other and do everything that is
www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine
necessary to fight this virus.
Stay healthy!
www.youtube.de/cossmatv
Sincerely yours,
Georg von Griesheim,
Managing Director
www.cossma.com l3
Contents
COSSMA 5/2020
8 MARKETS & 10 GO FUTURE:
COMPANIES ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
7 News 12 Interview with Francesca
8 Survey: Pascucci, Volker
Sudden changes Rosenberger, DSM:
Conscious Beauty
16 Dr Sarah Christina Pütsch,
Sederma: Colour meets care
28 What skin
microbiome can
20 Interview with Maud Merlini,
Seppic: When ageing
becomes positiv
22 Mélanie Coirier, Pauline
Tinguely-Rouaud, Silab:
Bio inspired
24 Michelle Strutton, Mintel:
International product launches
26 INGREDIENTS
28 Dr Bernd Becker, Molcare
Consulting: What skin
microbiome can
32 Mathias Fleury, Givaudan:
Better sleep - better skin
34 Formulations: Natural Cosmetics
35 News: Ingredients
4l COSSMA 5 I 2020
10–24
Latest launches & trends
for active ingredients
32 Better sleep - better skin
42 Jennifer Barachet, Quadpack: 60 News:
Skin care for all types Personalities & Profiles
44 MARKETING SERVICES
46 Dr Andreas Reinhart, Reinhart 3 Editorial
Rechtsanwälte: Borderline 6 Download List
products: Cosmetics or not?
61 Events Diary
42 Christian Lüke, Düllberg 62 Suppliers‘ Guide
Konzentra: Green lungs
65 Advertisers’ Index
66 Preview/Imprint
50 PACKAGING
52 Market survey: Process tech-
nology, laboratory equipment &
packaging machines
56 Nesrin Hesso, PhD, VMI:
Mixing Tools
36
51 News Packaging
Pumps & Dispensers 53 Review PCD
58 PERSONALITIES &
36 PUMPS & DISPENSERS PROFILES
38 Bernd Genath, Fischerplanning: 58 Interview with Joel Mantelin,
Protects against impurity Ashland: Trend of Trends:
Front cover picture:
41 News: Packaging Biofunctionals Joel Mantelin, Ashland, www.ashland.com
www.cossma.com l5
SERVICES
Free Downloads
More information for subscribers at www.cossma.com
CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS: WWW.COSSMA.COM/TV
ROBIN BIELEFELD CHRISTINE WILD ERWIN SCHUSTER
Purchasing Manager, Börlind Director International Sales, Head of Market Segment
about the company’s latest achieve- Boerlind New Markets and APAC, Geka
ments in sustainable packaging about the company’s latest achieve- about his company’s innovations in sus-
ments in sustainability tain-able packaging
STEFANO MEAZZA TIM EAVES JEAN-YVES BOURGEOIS
CEO of the company Cappardoni CEO, Quadpack CEO, JYB Conseils
about the complexity of recycling and provides background on their about the major changes in the
the company’s most recent acquistions acquisition of the German packaging packaging industry in the past 5 years
company Louvrette
photo: Kiuikson, Shutterstock.com
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Search for the topics you are interested in at www.cossma.com
6 l COSSMA 5 I 2020
MARKETS & COMPANIES
News
REBRANDING
SCHUMACHER PACKAGING | The new pro-
duction site in the English city of Birmingham
is now officially renamed on 1st April 2020.
“Jaffabox Ltd” became “Schumacher Pack-
aging Ltd”. The company acquired Jaffabox,
a manufacturer of various corrugated board
packaging solutions that is also family-run, in
November 2019. At the same time, a genera-
tional shift took place in the family that used
to own the company: Annette Amyes is now
Managing Director in the Birmingham plant Award Eduardo M. Molina (Business Director Innohealth), Dr Lisa
Maus (Global Director Innovation Management Active Ingre-
again dients), Eduardo Muñoz MD PhD (Co-founder of innoHealth),
Juan Carlos Guzman (Director General Evonik España y
Portugal S.A.U. and Managing Director innoHealth)
LIPOID KOSMETIK |
During the annual sus-
tain conference in March
2020, EcoVadis hon-
oured the company for
EXPANSION OF SKILLS
and her brother Mark has the role of Sales its actions in sustainable EVONIK | The company has concluded a purchase agree-
Director. The rebranding of the English plant procurement and Corpo- ment to acquire innovativeHealth Group (innoHealth).
emphasises that customers from the United rate Social Responsibility Head-quartered in Madrid, Spain, innoHealth’s technology
Kingdom can now also access the entire (CSR) with the “Sustaina- platforms screen and combine natural ingredients and
range of solutions offered by the European extracts to generate novel dermocosmetic products with
Schumacher Packaging Group – including synergistic activities. It will be part of Evonik’s Care Solu-
consultation, services and logistics. tions Business Line. This latest acquisition increases the
www.schumacher-packaging.com company’s ability to develop unique and tailor-made active
ingredients and accelerates time to market.
www.evonik.com
NEW FACILITIES
NOURYON | Nouryon and Ineos Nitriles have
The company
received the EcoVadis Stronger position
broken ground on new facilities to be built at award again.
Ineos’ site in Cologne, Germany. The units will AZELIS | The company is thrilled to announce that it has
produce raw materials for Nouryon’s readily signed an agreement to acquire 100% shares of CosBond,
biodegradable chelates, used in detergents bility Leadership Award” a Chinese specialty chemicals and food ingredients
and other industries. The plants are due to in the category “Small to distributor. Headquartered in Hong Kong, it has offices
be completed in 2021 – 2022. Demand for Medium Enterprises” as
chelates has increased strongly following the “Best Performer Heavy
European ban on phosphates in consumer Manufacturing”. Evon-
automatic dishwasher detergents. Chelates in ik has already received
home and personal care applications are more Gold Status for its CSR
sustainable than the phosphates they replace. activities four times in a
www.nouryon.com
row since 2015.
www.lipoid-kosmetik.com
Azelis acquires CosBond and strengthens position
in Chinese personal care market.
and warehouses in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Guangzhou and
Beijing and represents over 30 renowned global principals,
predominantly in personal care industry, followed by fla-
At Ineo’s site in Cologne, Germany, vour and fragrance, food and nutrition and fine chemistry.
new facilities will grow. www.azelis.com
www.cossma.com l7
MARKETS & COMPANIES
Sudden Changes
Crisis | In only a few weeks, the SARS-Cov-2 went
from a few infections to a global pandemic. Social
as well as business life have changed completely.
How are the companies coping?
Xavier Susterac, senior vice presi-
dent Personal Care Europe, BASF
“We are currently experiencing great
teamwork and the will to keep up the
production of personal care products for
daily needs. Our European sites are still
operating. However, we are experiencing
issues with the supply of some raw mate- Hans Bohnen, chief operating of-
rials and challenges due to logistics or re- ficer and director, Global Emer-
photos: creativeneko/Shutterstock.com, companies
duced personnel. Deliveries may be de- gency Management, Clariant
layed, and we may not be able to serve all “In response to the current developments
requested volumes. Despite all this, we are the Clariant Global Emergency Management
supporting local medical institutions at sev- (GEM) organisation has issued a strong recom-
eral sites by donations of sanitizers.” mendation that office workers in Europe, Middle
East and Africa, North America and Latin America
work from home or by a split office approach (A/B
group shifts). In India the government ordered a
complete shutdown. In Asia-Pacific most sites are
running, and remote work is recommended. In
China, our employees have returned to the office
since 30 March, with the obligation of wearing sur-
gical masks.”
8l COSSMA 5 I 2020 www.cossma.comMARKETS & COMPANIES
Staffan Sjöberg, public relation manager, Iggesund
“We are determined to keep production running. Any symptoms qual-
ify employees for paid sick leave. Also, we limited access to production
area, and increased cleaning and disinfection. Basically, we try to min-
imise any manual handling of our products. There is clearly a strong de-
mand for paperboard – even in a crisis. We are keeping our customers informed
on product safety in real time.”
Matteo Moretti, president, Lumson
“Lumson has adopted all possible measures to
prevent the spread of the virus: the use of PPE,
sanitisation of the workplace, temperature checks, re-
organisation of shifts and non-essential departments,
‘smart working’. It also supplied all members of staff
with high-protection masks. Lumson donated 2,000
protective suits to Ospedale Maggiore di Crema and Tim Eaves, CEO, Quadpack
supplied masks and medical scrubs to civil protection “With empathy, transparency
services. We are living through difficult days, both from and a spirit of collaboration we face
the human and work-related point of view, but I’m sure the coronavirus crisis. Communication
that with the contribution of everyone, we’ll be able to is key, and we are keeping all stake-
make it through”. holders updated 24/7. We are all in this
together! Most office staff are working
from home and our German factories
are operating with special safety meas-
ures. We are seeing a level of collabo-
ration never seen before. I am proud
to see how the Quadpack family is
facing the current challenges.”
Tony Veer, CEO, The Box
“Both from a personal and
business point of view, we take
as low a risk as possible. This
means very few personal contacts and
cleaning everything. When you enter,
there is a spray to disinfect your hands.
Also, we have given surgical masks to
employees, family and friends. We keep Rosa Porras Mansilla, marketing and
the physical distance of 1,5 m minimum communication manager, Virospack
all the time. With our team, we try to do “Since the beginning of the pandemic, we
damage control, by serving and support- took all the necessary security measures to
ing our customers even better than be- protect our employees – with extreme disinfection in
fore. Sometimes even at better prices, to our facilities, conditioning sections, and common areas
keep the business going for everybody. guaranteeing greater distances between workers, post-
We have started suggesting to our cus- poning international trips, or avoiding unnecessary
tomers that they use flatter tins, that fit contacts by having office staff work from home. Keep-
in the mailbox, so they can send products ing these security measures, we have maintained our
at low cost to people who stay at home.” activity and continued to meet delivery deadlines. Un-
fortunately, to curb the high spread of Covid-19, the
Spanish government has decided to close all non-
essential business activities from 30 March until 14 of
April – at least.”
www.cossma.com l9GO FUTURE
Active
Ingredients
Conscious beauty��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 12
Colour meets care������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 16
When aging becomes positive���������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 20
Bio inspired������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ p 22
International launches ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 24
photos:Africa
photo: Business/Shutterstock.com
LuckyStudio/Shutterstock.com
10 l COSSMA 5 I 2020 www.cossma.comwww.cossma.com l 11
GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
Conscious Beauty
Ingredients | The demands customers have on their skin care
products have changed. Those who buy anti-aging products are INTERVIEW
getting younger and younger. Francesca Pascucci and Volker
Rosenberger also talk about other trends and innovative solutions. photos and figures: Garnet Photo/Shutterstock, author
NN Francesca Pascucci COSSMA: What are the most sig- ables, but also cosmeceuticals –
global marketing manager nificant consumer trends in non-invasive but high efficacy, pre-
Skin Care skincare now? mium skincare solutions. At the
same time, though, demand for
Francesca Pascucci: We’ve carried cleaner, natural, and socially and
Volker Rosenberger out a couple of in-depth market environmentally responsible skin-
global marketing manager studies in the past 18 months and care is also growing. Look at the
Skin Care, both DSM,
can now see strands from two key momentum of vegan beauty for
Kaiseraugst, Switzerland,
trends coming together. There’s the example.
www.dsm.org/personalcare trend for medical beauty, with peo- In a nutshell, thanks to digital tech-
ple willing to embrace cutting-edge nology, people are becoming more
science and technology to achieve knowledgeable and more discerning
the looks they desire. This covers about what goes into their skincare
cosmetic procedures, such as inject- products. Today’s consumers want
12 l COSSMA 5 I 2020GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
nised as a “clean” option. What’s ucts around the age of 47; today, the
more, their design and production average age is 26. Having noticed
process is highly sustainable, and this trend, we spoke with consum-
they also meet the criteria for vegan ers via our Consumer Insights Hub
products. and it became clear that many
At DSM we use molecular model- younger women assume they will
ling, a tool new to cosmetics. Ini- age facially in a similar way to their
tially from the world of pharma, mo- mothers. Some even told us that
lecular modeling identifies the where they could see mimic and ex-
potential structural features behind pression lines on their own faces,
a molecule’s biological activity and their mothers had developed more
takes this as the basis for creating defined wrinkles.
effective skin care actives. We begin We found this interesting so decided
by designing and modelling biolog- to carry out a new study involving
ically relevant molecules in silico, both women in the 50-65 age group
synthesize them, then test small li- and in the 21-35 age group, some
braries of compounds to identify the who were actual mothers and
most effective. This technique re- daughters, using a tripeptide1. This
duces costs and development time. active is proven to reduce the ap-
It also helps us understand how pearance of mimic wrinkles by help-
products perform at the molecular ing the skin to relax from within.
level, giving us further insights into Our latest findings show that it can
how different skin actives work also help delay the progression of
within the skin. mimic wrinkles if used at an earlier
stage in life.
Do you see any new potential
for peptides in the anti-ageing What have been your most excit-
market? ing developments in the field of
skincare?
Francesca Pascucci: One manifesta-
tion of the medical beauty trend is Volker Rosenberger: We all know that
that information-savvy younger dealing with dry skin can be an up-
to understand exactly how and why generations are proactively seeking hill battle. It’s important to use good
individual actives and ingredients preventive anti-ageing solutions, facial and body moisturizers, but it’s
work on the skin. On top of this, much earlier stage. Baby boomers equally important to find a proper
broader environmental, health, and used to start using anti-ageing prod- cleansing product. The problem is
societal concerns are also influenc-
ing decision making. They require
transparent information about how
sustainably and ethically different
ingredients are sourced or pro-
duced, too. We call this phenome-
non “Conscious Beauty”.
What kind of skincare solutions or
technologies could respond to
these trends?
Francesca Pascucci: Synthetic, small
molecular weight peptides tick most
of the “Conscious Beauty” boxes.
These active compounds have a
known mode of action and deliver
proven results by working within
the skin and mimicking its natural
processes. This makes them an ex-
cellent response to the medical figure 1. The comparison between expression
beauty trend, and they are recog- marks among daughters and mothers.
www.cossma.com l 13GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
‘natural glow’ that comes with a
suntan, and the appearance of fresh-
ness and well-being you have just
after a holiday, is something people
prize highly. It gives them a confi-
dence boost, so they feel they can
go without make up, and also has
strong associations with looking
healthy.
Consumers would like to have this
look all year round. Although
self-tanning products and make-up
are options, the results tend to be
superficial and don’t look always
authentic.
Tanned skin is an outcome of mela-
nin synthesis, which is a line of de-
fence against photo-ageing. So, we
decided to see if a peptide could
figure 2. Result after four weeks in-vivo study with a tripep-tide
stimulate the tanning process at the
same time as protecting the skin.
that cleansing can strip moisture immediately increase skin hydration Our new Pentapeptide3, has a spe-
from your skin, impair skin barrier for 24 hours. We also found that, cial amino acid sequence and is a
function and impact the skin micro- even with frequent showering, it highly selective agonist of Melano-
biome balance, leaving skin rough helps reinforce the skin’s barrier cortin Receptor-1 (MC1R).
and tight, or maybe even reddened, while protecting against dryness. We chose it from a library of more
scaly and itchy. In one of our recent Francesca Pascucci: We see that pep- than ne hundred peptides both for
surveys, consumers said they want tides are appealing to consumers its MC1R activation efficacy and
to find a way to overcome these is- because they work with skin’s nat- ability to strengthen skin’s natural
sues and that they are looking for ural processes and boost them from defences from within, which it does
effective skin cleansers that also within. The results they bring are by reducing oxidative stress and
provide instant and long-lasting very effective too, so we’ve been boosting DNA repair.It has been
moisturization after use. looking for new applications beyond proven ex-vivo and in-vivo, with
We have carried out some new stud- the anti-ageing market. clinical tests showing that it pro-
ies with a natural moisturizer re- From speaking to consumers via our motes a visible glow and provides a
nowned for its moisture-magnet Consumer Insights Hub, and based healhty complexion in just five days.
properties. Our findings prove that on a survey of more than 6,000 re- These results are long-lasting too,
common skin cleansing formula- spondents men and women across with the benefits still visible at ten
tions containing this Moisturizer1 the globe, we’ve learned that the and twenty days.
figure 3. In vivo the pentapeptide delivers visible healthy tone in just five days with long-lasting effect.
14 l COSSMA 5 I 2020 www.cossma.comWhat are your latest findings in the field of the facial mi-
crobiome?
Volker Rosenberger: The skin microbiome has a lot of reso-
nance with consumers interested in more natural approaches
to skin care. As a beauty concept it’s certainly gaining trac-
tion; you only need to look at the growing number of cos-
metic products making specific reference to it, and the many
launches of prebiotic, probiotic and postbiotic ingredients.
There are still many questions to explore, though, about
how the skin interacts with its microbiota and which as- Slow Age
für sensible Haut
pects of these interactions are most relevant to the world of
skin care. At DSM, we’ve combined our knowledge and ex-
pertise in skin microbiology and skin science in a unique
epidermal microbiome beauty approach4 which focuses on
the interplay between the epidermis and the skin microbi-
ome in order to explore new ways to preserve, reinforce,
and restore healthy skin at its root.
Schützt vor den schädigenden
In 2018, for the first time in a single clinical study, our sci- Einflüssen des EXPOSOMS
entists demonstrated a link between changes in the compo-
sition of the skin microbiome and changes in normal, dry auf die Haut.
and oily skin. This research focused on three bacterial spe-
cies which have an important impact on these skin condi- ❖ Sichtbar weniger Entzündungen.
tions (Cutibacterium Acnes, Staphylococcus Epidermidis
and Corynebacterium Kroppenstedii) and their distribution ❖ Sichtbar weniger Falten.
on skin before and after application of one of three actives
in our current portfolio5. Our study found that treatment
❖ Sofortige Hautberuhigung.
with these actives could have a beneficial effect on the skin
barrier in normal, dry and oily skin. These effects were as-
sociated with changes in levels of one or more of the three
00 028
bacteria.
What potential do you see in the skin microbiome for the
development of new ingredients?
Volker Rosenberger: It is a real opportunity for innovation.
Our findings so far certainly point to promising potential
for next generation skin care. We also see potential in pro-
biotic skincare solutions. Last year DSM took an investment
in and began collaborating with S-Biomedic, working with
live bacteria to develop products and treatments for skin
disorders and has developed a programme focusing on ac-
ne-prone skin. In terms of the market, all the evidence from
our trends research suggests that the microbiome will be-
come a skincare segment in its own right. Several of DSM’s
actives have been tested against these criteria and awarded
this quality mark. We’re delighted with this, because as
well as providing formal recognition of our innovation in
❖ Beugt Exposom induzierter Zellalterung vor.
this field, “Microbiome Friendly” is a label end consumers
will be able to relate to. As this segment becomes more es- ❖ Reduziert neurogene Entzündungen.
tablished, it’s also reassuring for our customers that DSM is
ready, with microbiome skincare solutions.Q
❖ Stärkt die Hautbarriere.
❖ Bringt das Mikrobiom wieder ins
References Gleichgewicht.
1. Syn-Ake
2. Pentavtin
3. Syn-Glow
4. Epibiome Beauty
...
5. Oxy 229 PF, Syn-up and Alpaflor Alp-Sebum
Besuchen Sie uns auf der
��
in–cosmetics in Barcelona �
am Stand M58! �IOTECHNOLOGIES
www.greentechgmbh.de GREENTECHGO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
Colour meets care
Ingredients | Nowadays, it’s no longer enough for make-up to
perfect the skin’s appearance on the surface. Customers expect
active ingredients to care for their skin at a deeper level. Dr Sarah
Pütsch explains what is suitable for use in colour cosmetics.
Photos and figures: Jag_cz/Shutterstock.com, author
C
NN Dr Sarah Christina Pütsch, olour cosmetics have gained mous potential, popularity and mar-
technical marketing lead, Croda, enormous popularity and ket strength.Lip and facial make-up
Nettetal, Germany, further growth of this market were the most dynamic segments
www.sederma.com is projected for the coming years with the highest growth projected
(SpecialChem, 2017). Currently, within the next five years (Euromon-
South Korea as the trend setter for itor International, 2019).
colour cosmetics and a lot of beauty With consumer demand for make-up
trends from this country have entered with skin care benefits increasing,
the Euopean market. In 2017, about there are numerous opportunities for
two thirds of all cosmetic products cosmetic manufacturers to promote
launched in South Korea were colour the hybridisation of make-up and
cosmetics, emphasizing their enor- skin care. The concept is high per-
16 l COSSMA 5 I 2020GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
forming make-up, going beyond sim- acid, have a structure like hyaluronic Another active offering excellent
ply covering and concealing to really acid fragments. They stimulate the moisturising benefits and which can
taking care of the skin. neosynthesis of the skin`s own hya- be easily incorporated into powder
For example, due to the increasing luronic acid and helps to deliver op- make-up is “Vegesome moist 24” that
concerns about environmental ag- timal moisturising and viscoelastic is a powder composed of hollow par-
gressions, make-up could act as an- properties by sustaining its turnover. ticles from Lycopodium clavatum,
other layer of protection through the Furthermore, they increase the syn- which are filled with an extract of
incorporation of active ingredients, thesis of elastin and smoothe the Imperata cylindrica possessing mois-
which would provide hydration and skin`s microrelief within a few weeks turising properties. The active ingre-
protection against pollution. In addi- of application by reducing fine lines dient is progressively released to pro-
tion, consumers are constantly striv- and wrinkles (figure 1). cure moisturising effect lasting at
ing for a more natural look.
Colour and hydration
For make-up products, skin hydration
is an essential element to achieving
a flawless, healthy-looking skin. One
hydrating active facing the trend
around hyaluronic acid, is “Optim
Hyal”. Since the half-life of hyalu-
ronic acid is less than one day and its
synthesis decreases with age, it is
essential to trigger the hyaluronic
acid renewal. Products with oligosac-
Figure 1: After only one month of twice daily application of a cream containing 3% “Optim hyal”, the skin`s microrelief is
charides from acetylated glucuronic smoothened and the skin appears healthy and well hydrated.
www.cossma.com l 17GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
least two hours, while the empty cap-
sules can absorb excess sebum from
the skin surface to mattify the com-
plexion.
In vivo experiments performed with
twelve female volunteers with a
mean age of 45.9 years showed that
the application of a powder contain-
ing 1% of the active ingredient en-
hances skin moisturisation within
one hour after application. This ef-
fect is better and more prominent
two hours after application. Skin
moisturisation was significantly im-
proved in comparison with the pla-
cebo and skin roughness was visibly
reduced.
“Vegesome moist 24” works well as
an ingredient to be formulated in
powder make-up, such as bronzing
powders, face powders or eye
shadow, providing an exceptional
velvety touch together with im-
mediate moisturising and mattifying
properties.
Concealing and reducing
wrinkles
Focusing on the increasing consumer
demand for anti-ageing products to
allow dignified and graceful ageing,
a novel powder has been designed
for colour cosmetics applications.
This eco-designed ingredient is a
pure lyophilised plant cell culture ex-
tract of Leontopodium alpinum
Figure 2: Before using pure lyophilised plant cell culture of Leontopodium alpinum and after two months of application of a
(Edelweiss), which can be easily in- loose powder containing 0.03%.
corporated into make-up powders to
provide anti-ageing benefits. It exerts
a lifting effect to the skin, especially
around eyes and lips, can reduce fine around eyes and lips. In addition, due as the butterfly-bush, responds to the
lines and wrinkles and significantly to its antioxidant properties, it pro- specific beauty concerns of olive
enhances the skin isotropy. vides protection against pollution complexions. These are associated
A clinical study confirmed that the and sun damage. with skin phototypes III to V and
application of a loose powder con- need specific care, since they tend to
taining 0.03% of “Majestem drypure” Luminosity of the skin be hypersensitive and are prone to
for two months leads to a visible re- Regarding the consumers` desire for inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
duction of fine lines and wrinkles a more homogenous and more lumi- Due to its anti-oxidative, anti-inflam-
and smoothing of the skin texture nous complexion, a plant cell culture matory and pigmentation control
(figure 2). The skin appears lifted extract of Buddleja Davidii, known properties, the active ingredient “Am-
berstem” reduces inflammatory hy-
perpigmentation, dullness and red-
ness. It also reinforces the skin barrier
“Skin Hydration is an essential element to and improves hydration.
A clinical study confirmed that it
achieve flawless, healthy-looking skin.” fades dark areas and reduces skin
redness. Most of the volunteers per-
Dr Sarah Christina Pütsch, technical marketing lead, Croda International ceived a decrease in the intensity of
18 l COSSMA 5 I 2020 www.cossma.comPhotos: AdobeStock: Valua Vitaly, BillionPhotos.com, FotolEdhar
Figure 3: Before and after twice daily application of a lip balm containing
1% “Volulip” for one month.
dark areas and found their skin to be more luminous and TURN
TRENDS INTO
well moisturised. The active ingredient can be incorporated
into any type of facial care, make-up, sun and after-sun
products.
BUSINESS!
Sebum regulation is also an essential aspect for end con-
sumers to mattify their complexion. Women, as well as men,
strive for an even complexion without uncomfortable skin
shine caused by excess sebum flow.
An active ingredient, “Evermat”, that associates Enantia
chlorantha extract and oleanolic acid decreases the sebum More than 400 suppliers present
production and refines the skin grain. By inhibiting the
5a-reductase activity it provides a reduction in sebum flow
the latest trends in ingredients,
and consequently a less oily skin. Furthermore, it reduces manufacturing, packaging and
skin shine as well as the pore size, thus refining the skin
texture. The reduction in sebum flow and skin shine is no-
service.
table: the skin is mattified and the pore size is visibly re-
duced. The active ingredient is suitable for any type of facial
care product to reduce skin shine, dilated pores or oily skin
and can be incorporated into foundations, camouflage
creams or make-up fixing and mattifying sprays.
Lucky Lips
Another popular and dynamic make-up segment is lip
make-up. For that, every conceivable colour can be com-
bined with an active ingredient that hydrates the lips and/
or provides a volumizing effect. “Volulip”, a combination
of Portulaca pilosa extract and a dioxygenated peptide can
improve the lip texture and exerts a plumping effect. In vivo
studies revealed a visible impact on the lip shape and cur-
vature. After one month of application, an increase of the
lip volume, hydration and softness could be seen
(figure 3).
There is a broad range of high-performance active ingredi- International trade show of the
ents with numerous proven skin care benefits that can cosmetics supplying industry
easily be incorporated into make-up products. They respond
to the current demands of end consumers for make-up prod-
ucts that not only cover the skin but bring multi-purpose,
30.09. - 01.10.2020, MOC MUNICH
caring properties, which deeply and visibly improve the
skin`s condition and appearance for a flawless, natural and www.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair
glowing complexion. QGO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
INTERVIEW
When aging becomes positive
Trends | The generation over 50 no longer occupies a marginal position in the
cosmetics industry. Good and healthy aging are the key words today. Maud
Merlini talks about what this target groups wants and what its skin needs.
photos: Martina Ebel, Damsea/Shutterstock.com, author
NN Maud Merlini COSSMA: The view of the topic of brands are now talking about “slow
inspirational marketing, “anti-ageing” has changed. What ageing” and “ageing well”, in the
manager, Cologne, Germany, exactly is different now? press. Young women are also making
www.seppic.com a little more room for their elders
Maud Merlini: In the past ten years, (fifty years and above).
the perspective of the cosmetics in- This is the pro-age trend, which we
dustry on the topic of “anti-ageing” interpret as a move away from the
has changed quite a bit. Trends agen- beauty ideal that was defined by eter-
cies advise to accompany ageing, nal youth.
20 l COSSMA 5 I 2020GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
acceptance can be seen, for example, aging. Our extract from the red sea-
in the rehabilitation of certain signs weed Asparagopsis armata protects
of aging such as “happy wrinkles” or the skin from endogenous stress us-
silver hair. Consumers also expect ing a unique approach; it controls
fewer overpromises and more realis- contagious ageing (in vitro). Ageing
tic benefits from brands. leads to an excess of senescent cells
When we look closely at women characterised by functional and mor-
aged 50 years and over, they form a phological modifications. These cells
significant and increasing demo- also produce a “Senescence Messag-
graphic group for the beauty market, ing Secretome” (SMS), affecting
with a real purchasing power. What neighbouring young cells and accel-
do they want? They expect products erating the signs of ageing. The ex-
designed specifically to answer to tract of Asparagopsis armata regu-
their changing skin conditions, for lates the impact of SMS in order to
example related to menopause. reduce the contagious aging effect on
Also, when we take a look at younger young cells. It protects young cells
consumers we observe that they from senescence induced by SMS.
change their attitude towards ageing
and start using anti-ageing products “Healthy ageing” instead of “an-
earlier. Indeed, a study conducted in ti-ageing” - what does this mean
the UK reports that among 5,000 for customers’ care routine and
women, 62.4% think now that “an- way of life?
ti-age” consists of “preventing” the
effects of skin ageing2, rather than In terms of way of life, “healthy age-
trying to correct them. ing” having a more holistic approach
to beauty. For example, consumers
Which active ingredients are cur- are aware of a connection between
rently setting trends and what are diet and appearance and pairing up
they doing? traditional cosmetics with edible
products can be a great opportunity.
Facing these new consumers expec- To support brands in this direction,
tations, brands must both adapt their we can offer a patented complex of
marketing speech and change their plant-based ceramides that maintains
strategy of active choice to enter in a a healthy skin with moisturizing and
“pro age” strategy. antioxidant action, for both topical
Some brands work on a less negative and edible applications. Of course,
approach towards ageing by promot- the basic trio routine – cleanser, se-
ing fewer corrective benefits, such as rum, cream – is here to stay, but
If the ideal of beauty for women improving complexion glow and con- beauty supplements can enrich cus-
over 50 is no longer perfect, youth- cealing skin tone imperfections. tomer’s skin care routine. Q
ful skin, what do they expect from To value women over 50 years old –
their care products now? formerly side-lined in the cosmetics
sector – brands can design products References
(1) Philips Global Beauty survey – 2017, with more than
We notice that the perception of specifically for mature skin. With 10,000 women.
beauty has shifted over the years and age, skin loses its integrity. The me- (2) ‘Skin Thinking’ study conducted on 4,963 British
women aged from 18 to over 60 years (2018)
tends toward a more emancipated tabolism slows down and it doesn’t
vision. For instance, in 2017, a study allow the skin barrier to be main-
revealed that among more than tained anymore. When this occurs,
10,000 women questioned, 70% the skin loses both moisture and
think that beauty is something that firmness; it becomes dehydrated and
you define yourself1. wrinkles appear. Centella asiatica is
One of the first expectations is a a trendy ingredient to care for mature
change in the communication of skin as it can regenerate the natural
brands on anti-ageing products. Age- skin barrier. For those who look to
ing is inevitable; women are fighting protect the youth capital, antioxidant
less and less against time flying. They ingredients are commonly used.
The extract of red seaweed Asparagopsis
claim the right to be beautiful and However many brands are also look- armata helps to protect younger cells from
feel well, whatever their age. This ing for new approaches in preventive senescence.
www.cossma.com l 21GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
Bio inspired
Research | Probiotics are well known for having a
positive influence on health. Recently, scientists set
their focus on postbiotics, their bioactive metabolites.
Following the natural model with jojoba, scientists have
achieved special results for dry skin.
NN Mélanie Coirier biotechnologies to bioguide the pro- gredients that selectively stimulate
communication officer duction of a natural postbiotic capable the growth and/or activity of “good
of addressing dry skin issues using a bacteria” that may improve the
biomimetic approach. health of the host;
• Postbiotics, literally “after the pro-
Pauline Rouaud-Tinguely Definition of pro- pre- and biotic”, are non-viable bacterial
Innovation Management postbiotics products or bioactive metabolites
project leader, both Silab, Saint From the scientific discoveries on the generated by probiotic microorgan-
Viance, France human microbiota appeared the no- isms which bring benefits to the
www.silab.fr tions of probiotics, prebiotics and host.
postbiotics. The knowledge of the pre- First described and used for the treat-
cise terminology is very important for ment of intestinal disorders and gen-
O
ver the past ten years, scien- those who decide to work on these eral health, the concepts of probiotics
tists have made enormous new concepts. Here are some key defi- and resulting postbiotics are now oc-
progress in the understanding nitions, according to the literature and curring in cosmetic industry4.
of the role of the microbial flora on the World Health Organisation
health. This progress has led to the (WHO)1, 2: From bio-inspiration to
emergence of new therapeutic strate- • Probiotics are living microorgan- bioconversion
gies based on the use of probiotics isms such as Lactobacilli or Bifido- The most well-known probiotic be-
photos and figures: New Africa/Shutterstock.com, authors
(defined as good bacteria), and more bacteria that, when administrated longs to the genus Lactobacillus. For
recently of postbiotics, a set of bioac- in sufficient quantities, have posi- the development of its new care prod-
tive metabolites produced by probiot- tive effects on the host’s health. uct for dry skin, Silab’s research teams
ics. First related to the food industry They are more commonly known got specifically interested in Lactoba-
and gut health, these microorganisms as “good bacteria”. It is very impor- cillus (L.) arizonensis a plant probi-
are now an area of research in the tant to notice that a new term otic highly adaptable to desert cli-
cosmetic industry. As one of the first called paraprobiotic recently ap- mates. Indeed, it colonises jojoba, a
companies, Silab became interested peared and refers to dead or lysed shrub growing in extreme drought
in the idea of transposing their bene- microorganisms3; conditions, such as those of the Ari-
ficial effects to the skin. The company • Prebiotics, literally “before the pro- zona desert. In order to ensure its
thus applied its expertise in mastering biotic”, are non-digestible food in- survival, this good bacterial species
22 l COSSMA 5 I 2020GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
(= probiotic) bio converts molecules at the cell level all support cosmetics
of its host into bioactive metabolites, benefits.
more commonly called postbiotics. Indeed, the results of in vivo tests
This ability to modify its metabolism to demonstrated that after 28 days of
its environment provides it with a re- twice-daily application to the face of
markable adaptation capacity and is Caucasian volunteers with dry skin,
the reason for its nickname of “natu- active molecules at 1% maintain the
ral metabolic engineer”. before treatment microbiota’s equilibrium and revital-
In this context, Silab’s team decided ises renewal of the cutaneous barrier.
to use its historical expertise in bio- Hydration is improved (+16.2%) and
technologies and microbiota in order complexion radiance is revived, as
to reproduce in-house the specific nat- shown by increased reflection by the
ural environment of L. arizonensis. As skin (+7.4%; P < 0.01). This dual
expected, adding jojoba to the culture hydrating/complexion booster effect
medium has mimicked the existing was also seen on the face of Asian
after treatment +16.2%
partnership between this bacterium volunteers, to a significant degree.
and its substrate, thus allowing to bi- Effect on hydration of the skin of
oguide the production of postbiotics Caucasian volunteers (hands). Conclusion
rich in active molecules of cyclic poly- With science as its driver for innova-
ols-type. tion, Silab combined its expertise in
Interestingly, these molecules were modelling mimicking dry skin, which mastering natural products, biotech-
specifically identified by analytical enabled it to demonstrate the altera- nologies and microbiota to develop a
laboratory as highly interesting due to tion of the skin barrier function and biosinspired, natural active ingredi-
their biomimetic action and particu- to prove that its active ingredient re- ent. This patented biotech active
larly their ability to improve the qual- activates its integrity. More precisely, (INCI name: Maltodextrin and Lacto-
ity of dry skin. Indeed, these cyclic this was done by developing a novel bacillus Ferment) is recommended in
polyols (identified through a metabo- in vitro 3D model of reconstructed all care products for dry skin, availa-
lomics study by UPLC-MS/MS) are epidermis subjected to a water stress, ble as a powder without preservatives
osmoregulating molecules known to induced by incubation in an atmos- (recommended amount: 0.1 to 1%)
play a fundamental role in adjusting phere of 40% humidity (vs. 82%) for and compliant with international cos-
osmotic pressure in plants. In drought three consecutive days. metic regulations (Europe, United
conditions, they participate in maintain- Through this modelling study, the States, Japan, China, etc.).Q
ing the water status of the plant, in turn postbiotic was proven to boost the
References
contributing to preserving its active mechanisms inherent in establishing an
metabolism. Such metabolites present effective barrier function, thereby lim- 1. Watson RR, Preedy VR. Probiotics, Prebiotics, and Synbiot-
ics: Bioactive Foods in Health Promotion. Academic Press.
a suitable molecular profile to treat iting the effects of epidermal dehydra- 940 pp. (2015)
skin dryness. tion, with the improvement of the dif- 2. Patel RM, Denning PW. Clin. Perinatol. 40(1):11. (2013)
Produced at industrial scale, the su- ferentiation process and epidermal 3. de Almada CN, Almada CN, Martinez RCR, Sant’Ana AS.
pernatant was used as natural raw cohesion and the activation of the li- Trends Food Sci. Technol. 58:96. (2016)
material to concentrate active mole- pid cement formation. These actions 4. Markowiak P, Śliżewska K. Nutrients. 9(9): (2017)
cules by a patented process.
ADVERTISEMENT
A natural solution
Dry skin is a common disorder that is
marked by several symptoms includ-
ing discomfort, excessive desquama-
tion and the appearance of unsightly
irregularities. These manifestations
are the result of an alteration of the
skin barrier function, caused by a
number of factors (deterioration of
the epidermal differentiation and co-
hesion, defect in the formation of the
lipid cement and transepidermal wa-
ter loss).
To determine the efficacy of the ob-
tained active ingredient on dry skin,
the company developed an in-house
www.cossma.com l 23GO FUTURE: NEW IDEAS
Product development | This month, Mintel presents active ingredients. Many
Manufacturers currently focus on certain ingredients that have a strong
potency and different effects on the skin.
N
owadays, most customers
expect products that prom-
CeraVe BRTC
ise quick and clearly visible
Dermatologically developed: The peeling pad features
results. Therefore, new and well- “Resurfacing Retinol Serum”. two different sites.
known ingredients are researched
and used accordingly.
Help for irritated skin
The “Doctor Babor Pro” range in-
cludes BA Boswellia Concentrate,
which is claimed to provide a calmer
and more even complexion, enhan-
cing the barrier function of irritated
skin, thanks to Boswellia extract with
anti-inflammatory effects. The vegan
and pH optimal product is free from
fragrance and synthetic colourants.
Vitamin booster
La Roche-Posay “Pure Vitamin C10
Serum” is described as an anti-wrin- even and refined, while the skin re- Intense cleaning
kle, antioxidant renovating serum gaining its full radiance. It features As a part of the BRTC “Multi-Vital 10
that makes skin feel instantly softer, a light, fast-absorbing texture at a System” range, the “V10 Peeling Pad”
more hydrated and glowing, while re- physiological pH that leaves a vel- is described as a purifying moistu-
ducing wrinkles and fine lines. The vety, non-greasy finish. Suitable for rer that helps remove dead skin,
serum is said to make skin texture sensitive skin, it is formulated with while supplying essence to instantly
and tone appearing more uniform, the key ingredients pure vitamin C restore radiance. Formulated with
and the peptide neurosensine. centella asiatica extract, PHA and
bergamot fruit oil, the pads have
The power of ceramides completed skin irritation tests. The
CeraVe “Resurfacing Retinol Serum” pad features two sides for different
Dr Babor Pro La Roche-Posay contains three essential ceramides functions: bumpy embossing, for se-
Bosswelia extract with The serum is suitable (1, 3 and 6-11), encapsulated reti- bum control, exfoliation, makeup re-
anti-inflammatory effects. for sensitive skin. nol, licorice root extract and niacina- mover and soft, smooth cotton, for
mide said to reduce the appearance moisturising, smoothing, and texture
of post-acne marks and pores, restore improvement. Q
the protective skin barrier and im-
prove skin smoothness. The patented
MVE technology provides controlled
release of ingredients. The serum is
also claimed to brighten, resurface
the skin for a refined appearance and NN Michelle Strutton,
global research
a healthy look without causing dry- manager Beauty &
photos: Mintel
ness. The non-comedogenic and der- Personal Care,
matologically developed product is Mintel, London, UK,
free from parabens and fragrance. www.mintel.com
24 l COSSMA 5 I 2020 www.cossma.comCOSSMA HAS THE ANSWER.
STAY UP-TO-DATE.
WWW.COSSMA.COM/BLUE
GLOBAL TRENDS IN PACKAGING,
INGREDIENTS AND DISTRIBUTION.26 l COSSMA 5 I 2020
www.cossma.com
photos:SUWIT
photo: Studio/Shutterstock.com
Africa NGAOKAEW/Shutterstock.comINGREDIENTS
What skin microbiome can ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 28
Better sleep - better skin������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 32
Formulations: Natural cosmetics �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 34
www.cossma.com l 27INGREDIENTS
What skin microbiome can
Research | More and more cosmetics ingredients want to improve
the skin by effecting the skin microbiome. But what is the micro-
biome and how is it composed? Dr Bernd Becker gives an overview.
NN Dr Bernd Becker been developed by targetting skin's Without contest, the skin microbi-
MolCareConsulting, microbiome. ome is a full player in our beauty and
Photos: Kateryna Kon, solar22/Shutterstock.com
Wiesent, Germany, The microflora, or microbiota as we well-being. But how do we assess
www.molcare-consulting.com call it more precisely, is in fact the as- this? How do we evaluate the impact
semblage of microorganisms present of a cosmetic active ingredient or a
in a defined environment. finished product for consumers on
The human microbiota is composed the stratum microbium?
D
eodorants were the first cos- of a large diversity of bacteria, yeasts, In our company we master both skills
metic products developed to fungi and other viruses, and their to- equally, with a particular know-how
influence our skin micro- tal number is estimated to be 10,000 on cutaneous microbiota sample col-
biota, reducing axillary malodours different species8. lection, as well as proprietary data-
liberated by decomposition of Microbes on our skin also communi- bases of genes that are exploited with
apocrine sweat. In addition, new cate with our body9, and in particular home-made bioinformatics pipelines.
therapies to treat atopic dermatitis play an important role in our im- Indeed, after many years spent in
or rosacea, or even dandruff, have mune system10. developing procedures and databases
28 l COSSMA 5 I 2020 www.cossma.comINGREDIENTS
to explore soil and gut microbiomes, colon is obligatory for many healthy The complete list of
our focus is now on skin meta- and pleasant issues. A healthy colon references you find at
genomics techniques13, 14. is necessary for a good body mass www.cossma.com
index, happy feelings and also good web code: 100381
Impact of colon's microbiota on skin, leading to a glowing complex-
the skin ion, fewer pustules, full hair, less al-
The passage between colon and skin lergic reactions and the alleviation of
is well known. The skin does not stop many skin diseases. These increased androgens lead to
at the lips; the skin of the face con- With the lips the skin is not only an increase in sebum expressing in
tinues inward throughout the com- putting over the skin of the face and greasy skin and hair. Simul-
plete digestive system. Skin and the backing the mouth but is covering taneously, the follicles are blocked by
colon mucosa are in direct and tight as mucosa the complete digestive terminally differentiated dead kerat-
connection. tract. The skin as well as the colon inocytes, the horn cells, which causes
Of interest is the flora of the colon. mucosa define the borderlines be- a black head.
The microbiota of the colon not only tween our environment and our bod- Microbiota from the skin flora, par-
decides about a thick or thin body ies, the inside protecting us from ticularly the so-called Propionibacte-
but very often about the health harmful impacts outside. rium acnes proliferate very rapidly
status, as well. and provoke an inflammatory reac-
The colon's “long arm” reaches far The rise of acne tion of the follicle15.
inside, influencing nearly every or- Acne is a disease of the sebaceous The compounds of the skin flora are
gan of the body. The colon behaves glands with purulent pustules and permanently changed and regularly
like a helpful and outgoing friend in blackheads. This skin disease is complemented, for example by shak-
a lot of ways. provoked and continued by many ing hands.
The microbiota produces messenger factors. Microbiota are regularly exchanged
molecules and hormones and also During adolescence there is an in- between humans. Just the incredibly
coach the immune cells. The healthy crease of androgens in the blood. large number and diversity of micro-
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COSSMA gives you all the information you need for
taking decisions in your daily business.
www.cossma.com/shopINGREDIENTS
“The skin is a dynamic ecosystem inhabited by Regulatory T (Treg) cells play a crit-
ical role in establishing and maintain-
bacteria, archaea, fungi and viruses.” ing immune homeostasis in periph-
eral tissues. In the colon, the
Dr Bernd Becker, MolCare Consulting commensals themselves facilitate
generation of peripherally induced
Treg cells that are critical for proper
immune homeostasis.
A defined period of neonatal life is
organisms on our skin protect against products. Many studies have demon- characterised by an abrupt influx of
harmful pathogens. strated, that polyphenols effectively highly activated regulatory T (Treg)
absorb harmful substances, for exam- cells into neonatal skin.
Colon and inflammation ple free radicals, and support and During this developmental window,
Inflammation is a very important increase the intrinsic protection the host-commensal relationship in
function of the immune system. It mechanisms of the skin against the skin relies on a unique treg cell
protects against pathogens, trying to sunlight (UV-radiation), delaying the population that mediates tolerance to
enter the body. formation of wrinkles and senile bacterial antigens18.
It is an interesting observation, that, lentigo.
before diseases and strong inflamma- Polyphenols help with their dichotomy The Microbiome and
tions occur, there is a decrease of between their biotransformation to Anti-ageing
bacterial diversity often weeks, their metabolites and modulation of A study published in 2017 by Han
months or even years before the dis- colon`s microbiota to improve describes the influence of the micro-
ease occurs. health16. bial composition on ageing. They
Harmful bacteria can spread more Most of the polyphenols pass to- found that certain bacterial genes
easily and suppress protecting micro- gether with the food into the small and compounds can slow the
biota. Correlation has been found be- intestine without being absorbed. progression of tumors and the accu-
tween neurodermitis, allergies and They reach the colon and influence mulation of Amyloid-beta, a com-
diabetes. It has been shown that, dur- the colon's microbiome17, leading to pound associated with Alzheimer’s
ing normal ageing, the colon’s flora reciprocal connection and interaction disease. The study’s researchers posit
deteriorates to an impotent and tedi- between polyphenols and the colon that, eventually, slowing down the
ous monoculture. microbiome. ageing process entirely may be pos-
The skin is a site of constant dialog be- sible with supplements derived from
What polyphenols can achieve tween the immune system and com- gut bacteria21.
for the skin mensal bacteria. The skin is the inter- The skin is a dynamic ecosystem in-
Polyphenols are secondary com- action area between commensal skin habited by a lot of different skin
pounds from plants responsible for microbes fundamental to skin phys- microbes (bacteria, archaea, fungi
the colour, taste and smell of food iology and immunity. and viruses) which are fundamental
to skin physiology and immunity.
The skin is replete in diverse and un-
usual lipids not found elsewhere in
the body22, 23.
Some of these lipids, such as sapienic
acid, have antimicrobial activities,
while others, such as triglycerides,
are then metabolised by microbes
into free fatty acids and di- and
monoglycerides that can be bioactive
against other microbes or stimulatory
to host cells24, 25.
Sanford and colleagues showed that
short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs) pro-
duced by microbes colonising the
skin's surface lead to the inhibition
of the histone deacetylase (HDAC)
activity. It is known from microbes
that populate the intestinal tract pro-
duce high levels of SCFAs that inhibit
One factor that can trigger acne is an imbalance in the skin microbiome. HDAC activity26-28.
30 l COSSMA 5 I 2020 www.cossma.comYou can also read
