"WASTE FOR BEAUTY" ANNA + WILL BRIGTHMAN UPCIRCLE BEAUTY - COSSMA
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E51280
1–2 / 2020
COSMETICS | SPRAY TECHNOLOGY | MARKETING WWW.COSSMA.COM
Anna + Will Brigthman
UpCircle Beauty
“WASTE FOR
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
New approaches in
sun care preservation p. 14
BEAUTY” p. 56
SPOTLIGHT: SAMPLES
A spotlight on green
options for minis p. 36
ANNA BALAGUER
Provital
How to survive
competition
p. 40
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EDITORIAL
SUNNY PROSPECTS?
If you compare global sales of sun care products in 2018 with those in 2013, the striking UPCYCLING
Read on the trend
finding is that in most categories there has been double-digit growth. Since 2013, the of turning food waste into
global sales of sun care products have increased by 16.2%, from 9.04 billion to 10.5 USD. beauty products
from page 42
After-sun and self-tanning products are with 656.5 million USD respectively 563.5 million
USD somewhat smaller. While after-sun products yielded a 17.9% growth and performed
similarly well, self-tanning products yielded a sales increase of 8.7%.
If you want to learn more about the challenges involved in formulating sun care products
as well as on the latest sun care trends and findings, the topic of nano and sustainable
options, industry experts from Merck, from Schülke & Mayr, BASF, consultants from
Skin Xpert and Sun Protection Fascilitator, provide fascinating insights.
Of course, this is not all. We have compiled an interesting range of articles representing
the industry’s latest developments. SUN CARE
Dr Christiane Hanay
We hope that you will find precisely the type of information you are looking for. from SkinXpert provides for-
mulation insights
from page 22
Sincerely yours,
Angelika Meiss
Senior editor, COSSMA
More information at
FOLLOW US ON:
www.cossma.com
www.linkedin.com/company/cossma-digital/ www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine www.youtube.de/cossmatv
www.cossma.com l3
Contents
COSSMA 1–2/2020
8 ARKETS &
M 14 Interview with Susanne
Schmidt, Schülke & Mayr:
COMPANIES New approaches in sun
08 News care preservation
17 Michelle Strutton, Mintel:
10 G
O FUTURE: International product
SUN CARE launches
10 Interview with Alexander Kiel- 18 Interview with Stéphanie
bassa and Valérie Bicard-Ben- Acker, BASF: Eco-conscious
hamou, Merck: The complexity sun protection
of creating sun care products
22 Interview with Dr Christiane
Hanay, SkinXpert:
56
Coffee grounds
Formulation know-how
at its best
for beauty? 26 Interview with Uli Oster-
walder, Consultant:
Sun care update
28 INGREDIENTS
28 Prof Dr Dr Reinhard H.H.
Neubert, Martin Luther
University (MLU) Halle-Wit-
tenberg: How to improve
skin elasticity
4l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020
10–27
Latest insights into
the world of sun care
40 MARKETING
48 The recycling challenge 40 Anna Balaguer, Provital:
How to survive competition
40 VIP of the month
42 Imogen Matthews, Consultant
to In-Cosmetics:
Turning food waste into
beauty products
45 Christine Gallup, Genomatica:
Increasing options for
sustainable choices
48 PACKAGING
48 Interview with Linda Zhang,
Henkel: The recycling challenge
51 Star of the Month: How to Anna Balaguer, Provital,
personalise products at home explains how to survive in
54 A look at ADF and PCD today’s fierce competition
32 Dr Andreas Reinhart, Reinhart
highlights
Lawyers:
59 SERVICES
Front cover picture: Veerle Evens, UpCircle Beauty
Glossary of common 55 Packaging news
ingredient names 03 Editorial
34 Formulations: Face & colour 56 PERSONALITIES & 06 Download List
35 Ingredients news
PROFILES 59 Events Diary
56 Interview with Anna and 62 Suppliers‘ Guide
William Brightman,
36 SPOTLIGHT: SAMPLES UpCircle Beauty: 65 Advertisers’ Index
36 A spotlight on green Coffee grounds for beauty? 66 Masthead Page
options for minis 58 People 66 Preview
www.cossma.com l5
SERVICES
Free Downloads
More information for subscribers at www.cossma.com
CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS:
WWW.COSSMA.COM/TV
TIPS FOR MORE INFORMATION IN FEBRUARY
Embracing the natural tex-
ture of their hair is very
much en vogue with Afri-
can and black consumers
around the globe. What
tailored hair products suit
their texture preferences
and address their specific
hair issues and styling
choices?
ROBIN BIELEFELD CHRISTINE WILD
Purchasing Manager, Director International
Börlind Sales, Boerlind
about the company’s about the company’s
latest achievements in latest achievements in
sustainable packaging sustainability For more information,
search for these topics at
Tailored product solutions for texture prefer-
www.cossma.com
ences of African and black consumers
Top additional information in February
INGREDIENTS: A glacier bacterium tackles the the ageing process of
ERWIN SCHUSTER STEFANO MEAZZA sleep-deprived skin, Mibelle
Head of Market Seg- CEO of the company
ment New Markets Cappardoni PACKAGING: A broadening sustainable choice, Quadpack
and APAC, Geka about the complexity of
COMPANIES: Asita Morgan, Head of Innovation Lab, Cosnova,
about his company’s recycling and the
innovations in sustain- company’s most considers diversity, performance and happiness
able packaging recent acquistions as the main trend drivers
FORMULATION: Peach Peeling Bar, Zschimmer & Schwarz
LOG IN AND TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE!
photo: Kiuikson, Shutterstock.com
TIM EAVES JEAN-YVES BOURGEOIS On the COSSMA website, we post lots of additional information related to the top-
CEO, Quadpack CEO, JYB Conseils ics covered in the magazine. You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items
provides background about the major to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients
on their acquisition of changes in the packag- and finished products that we cover; market data and statistics; supplier listings;
the German packaging ing industry in the literature references; scientific articles; product formulations and useful base for-
company Louvrette past 5 years mulations. Search for the topics you are interested in at www.cossma.com
6 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020 www.cossma.com
MARKETS & COMPANIES
News New
OF THE
Month
s
Brand acquisition Packaging THRIVING AGAIN: SKIN CARE
PROCTER & GAMBLE | In order to comple- acquisition IKW | Pro-
ment its female grooming portfolio, which jected annual
HOFFMANN NEOPAC |
includes the Venus, Braun and joy brands, sales 2019 of
With the acquisition of
Procter & Gamble plans to acquire Billie beauty care
their metal packaging
Inc., a subscription-based, direct-to-consumer products in
body care brand with natural-focused razors Germany
which are appealing to Millennial and Gen Z grew by 1.8%
consumers. to 14 billion
www.pg.com, https://mybillie.com
Euros. As in
the previous
year, the two
best-selling
product Known for ist botanical expertise
Production site for
internationalisation categories showed the strongest growth. Consumers spent
3.3 billion Euros for skin and face care products. This is a
partner CM Packag- plus of 3.3% against 2018. Sales of hair care products rose
ing, Hoffman Neopac by 3.5%to 3.2 billion Euros. Sales of oral and dental care
now has a production products went up by 1.6% to 1.6 billion Euros.
site in the EU in the met-
A slight increase was recorded in sales of decorative cos-
al sector.
metics (+0.3% to 1.8 billion Euros).
www.hoffmann-neopac.com
Shaving products for Millennials www.cmpackaging.nl Source: www.ikw.org, www.iriworldwide.com
ai157544944129_ad Mix kerascalp hydrafence 210 145 mm COSSMA enero 2020 copia.pdf 1 04/12/2019 9:50:42
ADVERTISEMENT
photos: xxxx XXXX xxxxx XXXXXX xxxxxxxx
8l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020 www.cossma.com
www.provitalgroup.com
RUBRIKTITEL
News
New beauty giant
NATURA | The new group’s brands now include Natura, The
Body Shop, Aesop and Avon making it part of the world’s
fourth-biggest pure-play beauty company, reaching more than
200 million consumers worldwide through multiple channels. The
group will have annual gross sales above US$10 billion, 6.3 mil-
lion representatives and consultants, 3,200 stores and a presence
in more than 100 countries.
www.avonworldwide.com
PARTNERSHIP
SCHWAN COSMETICS | Schwan Cosmetics
and Revieve have established a partnership
to enable end consumers to digitally find the
beauty products that are just right for their
skin type with all its specificities.
The technology’s real-time analysis of the
shopper’s selfie includes skin radiance, eye
colour and pigment variance. An algorithm
then connects the individual skin profile with
product recommendations to find best avail–
Finding products
simply digitally able skin care and beauty products.
www.schwancosmetics.com
photo: BVladimir Gjorgiev (shaving), CM Packaging (production site), Pauline Fabry, Revieve, Ipag Collection (face), Shutterstock.com
10th anniversary
BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG | This year
from April 25–26, BEAUTY FORUM
LEIPZIG will be celebrating its 10th anni-
versary. The multi-faceted trade show for
beauty professionals with its more than
400 exhibitors and brands is an event
to look forward to, especially as it offers a broad selection of
extremely informative educational seminars. Another thing to look
forward to are the championships.
On the occasion of the show’s 10th anniversary, day tickets are available for only 10 Euros
at the ticket presale which starts on January 28 at www.beauty-fairs.de/leipzig
Fascinating exhibition with 400 exhibitors and brands
www.cossma.com l9
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
More interview
questions at
www.cossma.com
web code: 100349
Multifaceted
insights
Interview | Alexander Kielbassa and Dr Valérie
Bicard-Benhamou from Merck present the latest
findings in HEV, blue light and IR exposure, explain
how to overcome challenges involved in formu-
lating sun care products and point out the options
available for creating sustainable products.
Designua (skin), (Kraska (bottles), Magnetix (light spectrum), Maridav (lead photo), Shutterstock.com
10 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020 www.cossma.comGO FUTURE: SUN CARE
NN Interview with: What are the latest ingredient
Alexander Kielbassa, Scientific Associate Director findings in this field?
Dr Valérie Bicard-Benhamou, Scientific Associate
Director, Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany VB: We have investigated in two
www.merckgroup.com ex-vivo models and at two differ-
ent wavelength ranges (IR-A and
HEV), different products from dif-
ferent origins and light protection
COSSMA: What are the most im- impact of visible (and de facto the strategies: we tested ingredients
portant trends in the use of sun HEV range) and IR may be strong. which play a role in the first de-
filters? Another source of blue light is fence line as they prevent radia-
electronic devices: computers, tion from entering the skin, for
Alexander Kielbassa (AK), Scientific mobile phones, tablets. example Eusolex T-AVO. In the sec-
Associate Director, Merck: In addi- RADIATION ond defence line which causes a
tion to the trend of ever-increasing How important is protection All solar radi- responsive action in case some ra-
UV protection levels, pleasant and from HEV, blue and IR light ac- ation leads to diation should nonetheless enter
the formation of
fast application, attractive formu- cording to you? the skin, we tested three ingredi-
radical oxygen
lation formats, and good skin ents, two of them were antioxi-
species (ROS)
compatibility of the selected UV VB: Appropriate and controlled dants, the natural Emblica extract
filter combination all play an im- doses of HEV and IR may be ben- and the synthetic RonaCare AP.
portant role. eficial for solving different skin The third ingredient was the nat-
Mineral-based UV filters such as issues, however a protection in the ural cell protector RonaCare Ec-
our company’s Eusolex T and UV-Ti- HEV and IR ranges is definitely toin. And finally, we also tested
tan products have a great advan- needed. the selftanner Dihydroxyacetone.
tage here and are increasingly Although the general public be- The five ingredients tested all pro-
used. In addition, compatibility of lieves that photoprotection is Even though vided strong performance and
ingredients with environmental mainly a matter of UV protection, infrared (IR) radi- protection of human skin explants
aspects is becoming more impor- all solar radiations lead to the for- ation has the after IR-A/HEVL irradiation, thus
tant. mation of radical oxygen species lowest energy its providing a broad protection band
(ROS) and the excess of free radi- contribution to the in the solar spectrum. This protec-
What have been the latest find- cals in skin contributes to prema- solar spectrum tion was shown on multi-bio-
reaching human
ings in High Energy Visible ture skin ageing as well as wrin- chemical parameter levels: in the
skin amounts to
light (HEV), blue light and In- kling. case of the blue light ex vivo
about 45%
frared (IR) light exposure? Visible light and especially high study, MMP1, oxidised proteins,
energy visible light trigger pro-in- opsin-3 and 8-OHdG were posi-
Dr Valérie Bicard-Benhamou (VB), flammatory cytokines, different tively impacted after the applica-
Scientific Associate Director, Merck: matrix metalloproteinases expres- tion of our actives on the human
Protection of the skin against HEV sion, or oxidation of proteins and explants. In the case of the IR-A
light and IR light are other strongly these markers all play a role in study, tropoelastin and MMP-1
emerging trends for cutting-edge accelerating skin ageing, as de- were positively impacted by the
sun care products. noted by sagging skin, inflamma- Excess of free application of the different ingre-
Scientists showed how the skin tion, wrinkles as well as skin tone radicals in skin dients on irradiated human ex-
encounters stress on a daily basis issues due to hyperpigmentation contributes to plants.
when exposed to different wave- effects. premature skin These findings show that the on-
length bands in the solar spectrum IR radiation has the lowest energy ageing and set of ageing may be delayed and
wrinkling
including not only UV light but but its contribution to the solar photoageing damages may be
also visible light and especially spectrum reaching human skin is slowed down.
the HEV range, as well as the about 45% and there may be an As there is a broad choice of effi-
longer wavelengths in infrared; impact on the integrity of the ex- cient ingredients that can circum-
scientists have also made clear tracellular matrix. vent harmful effects of HEV and
that dam-’age within the different
skin layers may also stem from
these stressors.
The main source of HEV and IR
light is natural sunlight itself; in-
“Current trends include protecting
deed, visible and infrared light
represent about 90% of the solar
the skin against HEV light and IR light”
spectrum. Therefore, the biological Dr Valérie Bicard-Benhamou, Scientific Associate Director, Merck
www.cossma.com l 11GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
“Properly using sun care is sustainable by claiming SPF and UVA; e.g.
eco-certified Eusolex T-S, Eusolex
itself as it sustains human skin health” T-AVO and RonaCare Zinc Oxide.
Apart from this, there is a wide
Alexander Kielbassa, Scientific Associate Director, Merck range of cosmetic ingredients and
cosmetic actives which follows
natural sourcing or is even organ-
ically grown with clean and “soft”
IR-A light, consumer needs and UV filter combinations available, manufacturing steps, without crit-
preferences can fully be taken into so that some of the formulation ical impurities and which are bio-
consideration. challenges can be overcome. Pho- degradable or of mineral origin.
tostabilisers, SPF boosters and
VISIBLE LIGHT
What are the challenges when skin-feel enhancers help to create Could you please provide us
and especially
formulating sun care products? pleasant formulations. Very fa- with some examples?
high energy visible
vourable are Titanium Dioxide UV
light trigger e.g.
AK: The first challenge is to find filter grades of the Eusolex T and pro-inflamma- VB: The mineral-based UV filters
effective UV filter combinations UV-Titan range. They are transpar- tory cytokines, we already mentioned. Sustaina-
for a well-balanced UVA and UVB ent on the skin and are very strong different matrix bility is also an issue in the field of
protection, which act synergisti- SPF and UVA boosters when com- metalloprotein- micro plastics, micro plastic beads
cally in order to keep formulation bined with organic UV filters. ases expression, in particular. A sustainable alter-
costs low and to reach the in- Thus, they keep the total UV filter or oxidation of native to plastic beads are the fully
tended SPF/UVA level. concentration on a low level. An- proteins inorganic RonaFlair functional fill-
Another challenge is to avoid the other beneficial ingredient is the ers. Another option for formulating
infringement of innumerable antioxidant Oxynex ST Liquid for sustainable or clean beauty sun
third-party IP of UV filter and in- sensitive active ingredients. It care is the bio-produced cell pro-
gredient combinations. acts as a photostabiliser for UV tection factor RonaCare Ectoin with
And last but not least, achieving filters and improves the long-term its eco-certification. It acts against
a stable and photostable formula- UV protection level while acting UVA-triggered premature skin age-
tion, fully solubilised or dispersed as a solvent for the UV filters. At ing. Other options include the
solid actives and UV filters. The the same time, this multi-purpose skin-firming RonaCare Poppy Seed
Photoprotection
formulator has to avoid incompat- ingredient even works as an an- Extract, the natural-based Oxynex
is not only a matter
ibilities of ingredients and this for ti-pollution active ingredient for and Emblica as antioxidants, the
of UV protection
the entire storage period. So, in- cross-over sunscreens with skin algae extract RonaCare RenouMer
deed, the number of challenges care claims. for anti-ageing and moisturising
involved is high. properties, and finally the natural
How do sun care and sustaina- anti-inflammatory active RonaCare
How can these challenges be bility go together? Bisabolol nat.
overcome? As sun care includes self-tanning,
AK: Please allow me to start with, also our company’s Dihydroxyace-
AK: Formulating sun care products sun care and properly using sun tone is COSMOS-registered and
is something for specialised com- care is already sustainable – sus- NATRUE-compliant.
Much more
panies and of course for experi- tainable, as it sustains human skin
research is
enced formulators. It definitely health, if the skin is not exces- What biodegradable solutions
needed to substan-
does not fit the recent cosmetic sively exposed to sun irradiation. tiate a claim like
are there for sun care?
trend of “Do it yourself cosmet- With respect to the sustainability “reef-friendly” for
ics”. Reports and blogs about “DIY of ingredients: There are various UV filters and sun AK: Many ingredients typically
sunscreens” have been published sun care products, brands and eco care products used for sun care are readily bio-
on the web, but this is not recom- labels available in the field of nat- degradable. Alternatives include
mendable at all. ural sun care. As they systemati- emollients, emulsifiers, polymers,
At least in Europe there are cally exclude synthetic sub- waxes, stabilisers and many cos-
enough permitted inorganic, or- stances, only inorganic UV filters metic actives of natural origin. Of
ganic and encapsulated UV filters, can be used for achieving and course, there are substances and
cosmetic ingredients which are
“natural UV absorbers” and read-
ily biodegradable but they have no
approval to be used as UV filters
in sun care formulas or to claim
Visible and infrared radiations represent about 90% of the solar spectrum SPF or UVA levels. UV filters used
12 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
for human application for cosmetics YOUNGER SKIN OLDER SKIN
in EU or OTC in the USA need to be
approved after extensive approval
processes and only a relatively man-
ageable number of ingredients has
this approval.
The list of permitted UV filters inclu-
des biodegradable or readily biode-
gradable substances such as Ethylhe-
xyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Methoxy-
cinnamate or Benzophenone-3, but
these substances are controversially
discussed for other reasons. Biodeg-
radability does not apply to ingredi-
Excess of free radicals in skin contributes to premature skin ageing and wrinkling
ents and UV filters of mineral origin.
What options are there for UV pro- A recent publication on Octocrylene shown effects. In a study by Mitchel-
tection in compliance with reef by Pawlowski et al. discusses that, more, concentrations of organic UV
safety? due to the poor water solubility and filters, hormones and surfactant deg-
high surface adsorption properties of radation products were analysed
AK: This is an important but very some UV filters, concentrations around Hawaii, among others in
controversially discussed topic cur- measured in the ocean or sea can be coral tissue, but without linking this
rently, because there is no full and severely flawed. directly to toxic effects.
scientifically sound comparison be- It will still take considerable time be- In the field of inorganic UV filters, a
tween the different UV filters. So far, fore validated methods are available study of Corinaldesi and Italian uni-
there are no methods available to for assessing complex ecosystems versities showed that Eusolex T-2000
specifically assess effects on coral such as that of coral reefs. We face a does not affect corals.
reefs. At this moment, the only pos- lengthy period where comparing re- In conclusion, although it would be
sible comparison is based on availa- sults from various experiments leads beneficial to develop reef-friendly UV
ble data such as aquatic toxicity and to high speculation as to which UV filters or sunscreen formulations, cur-
biodegradation. A real grading of UV filters are least toxic to coral reefs. rent knowledge is too limited for a
filters is nevertheless difficult as they Last but not least, UV filter exposure serious attempt to do so. Instead,
have a low aquatic toxicity but poor might be only a minor aspect that claiming to be reef-friendly by avoid-
biodegradability or a good biodegra- needs to be evaluated to understand ing the use of the two UV filters
dability but higher aquatic toxicity. coral bleaching, the results from pol- banned in Hawaii, Benzophenone-3
None of the permitted UV filters has yps expelling algae. and Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,
a truly positive profile for both It is generally accepted that increased and substituting them by other min-
aquatic toxicity and biodegradation. sea-water temperature due to global eral-based or organic UV filters not
Since good UV protection means pro- warming is the main cause for this touched by this ban, is unfortunately
tection against UVA and UVB light, phenomenon as shown by Baird et al. a current trend.
there is a need to rely on a complex Moreover, apart from UV filters, sev- Much more research is needed to
combination of UV filters. Limiting eral other major factors might trigger substantiate such a claim in the fu-
the number of permitted UV filters coral bleaching: excessive UV radia- ture or even to determine if any
further restricts manufacturers and tion, ocean acidification, rising sea newly developed UV filter substances
choices critically. level, physical destruction, mass tour- are indeed more reef-friendly while
Much more future research is needed ism in general, bacterial/viral patho- at least equally safe for humans.
to specifically assess toxicity on coral gens as well as environmental pollut- With animal testing bans in place,
reefs. Numerous parameters need to ants. developing new UV filter substances
be considered in order to develop a Based on in situ and laboratory ex- and having these approved by au-
validated method and to be able to periments, some researchers such as thorities without conducting animal
understand if and how UV filters dif- Danovaro postulated an effect of cer- tests is nearly impossible.
fer in their effects. Amongst others, tain UV filters as one of the reasons Our company currently closely fol-
analytical measurements need to be for disturbing the symbiosis of polyps lows the developments in evaluating
carefully considered in order to be and algae. The relevance of these ef- products’ toxicity to coral reefs and
able to link effects observed in labo- fects observed in the laboratory for will keep the product portfolio as is
ratory test systems to concentration the overall process of coral bleaching until more robust scientific data be-
measurements in the ocean and inves- is not known. Moreover, only a few comes available, justifying another
tigations of coral reefs as ecosystems. UV filters e.g. Benzophenone-3 have decision. Q
www.cossma.com l 13GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
New approaches in
sun care preservation
Interview | Preserving sunscreens can be complex and challenging. Susanne
Schmidt from Schülke & Mayr explains how to master these challenges and
provides insights into traditional and alternative preservative systems.
14 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
NN Interview with: cacy. Here we focussed on the ra-
Susanne Schmidt, Product Development tio of oil to water phase as a func-
Manager, Business Line Personal Care tion of the SPF value and its
Schülke & Mayr, Norderstedt, Germany influence on the concentration of
www.schuelke.com the preservation system in the
same formulation matrix.
We expected that formulations
with higher SPF would need
COSSMA: What has to be taken also have a strong impact on prod- higher amounts of preservative,
into account in order to pre- uct development. They lead to a and this was not always the case.
serve sunscreens adequately? restricted use of controversial in- When there is less water in formu-
gredients and make formulators lations with a high oil content,
LIMITED CHOICE
Susanne Schmidt, Product Develop- shift towards the use of softer this can also lead to a reduced
The pH value of a
ment Manager, Schülke & Mayr: De- preservation or other non-tradi- microbiological susceptibility.
formulation may
veloping sunscreens is often more tional solutions. limit the choice of
This means that from a certain
challenging than other skin care usable preserva- ratio of oil to water phase, the use
products as it requires an experi- Why is it more difficult to pre- tive actives of preservatives decreases again.
enced formulator with detailed serve formulations with higher
market knowledge. Various re- SPF levels? What options are there for pre-
quirements must be taken into serving sunscreen products?
consideration and a comprehen- The proportion of the oil phase in
sive knowledge in the fields of an emulsion increases with higher As mentioned before, market de-
chemistry, galenics, methodology, sun protection factors. Most mod- mands and formulation require-
measurements, regulations and ern, non-traditional preservatives ments on preservation restrict the
patents is essential. Choosing a such as aromatic alcohols are less choice of preservative actives
specific preservation method has soluble in water, where the micro- listed in Annex V of Regulation
Many organic
only played a minor role in the bial activity happens, and tend to (EC) No. 1223/2009 on Cosmetic
acids such as
past. Due to public controversies, migrate to the oil phase. As such, benzoic acid and
Products. Frequently used pre-
regulatory changes and a trend an emulsion with a higher ratio of sorbic acid need servative actives are aromatic al-
towards using modern, non-tradi- oil to water phase may require a a lower pH in cohols, short-chain parabens and
tional preservative systems, pres- higher concentration of preserva- order to work as organic acids insofar as they are
ervation must be considered at the tives. Furthermore, it is common preservatives compatible with the formulation.
very beginning of the develop- to use high amounts of polar oils Today, more and more multifunc-
ment of any product. This holds in sunscreen formulations to sol- tional ingredients are being used
particularly true for sunscreens. ubilise crystalline UV filters e.g. for product protection, which,
avobenzone or benzophenone-3 among other functions, may also
For what reason is the choice of or disperse the mineral UV filter have antimicrobial support or en-
suitable preservative systems in zinc oxide and/or titanium diox- hancing effects on traditional pre-
sunscreen formulas limited? ide. A higher polarity of the oil servatives.
phase may increase the migration
The pH value of a formulation of actives into the oil phase. UV FILTERS Are there any traditional pre-
may limit the choice of preserva- Some organic servative actives for sunscreen
tive actives that can be used. Sun- Do formulations with higher UV filters, such as products that are not controver-
screen formulas such as emul- SPF require higher amounts of avobenzone, are sial?
photos: Maxx-Studio (products), Stockyimages (lead photo), Shutterstock
sions often require a neutral pH, preservatives? not compatible
due to UV filters such as zinc ox- with formaldehyde Yes and no. There is a wide range
ide, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic Our company has challenge-tested releasers of actives available from Annex V.
acid and/or thickener systems several sunscreen formulations More than half of the listed sixty
used for stabilisation. For this rea- based on organic and/or inorganic substances and their families are
son, organic acids such as benzoic UV filters for antimicrobial effi- rarely used due to technical is-
acid, sorbic acid etc., which need
a lower pH in order to work as
preservatives often cannot be
used. Furthermore, some organic
UV filters, such as avobenzone,
“When developing sun care products, the appropriate
are not compatible with formalde-
hyde releasers. On the other hand,
preservation must be considered right from the start”
market trends and social media Susanne Schmidt, Product Development Manager, Business Line Personal Care, Schülke & Mayr
www.cossma.com l 15GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
“It is more challenging to develop sunscreens
than other skin care products”
Susanne Schmidt, Product Development Manager, Schülke & Mayr
sues. Actives which are especially hibit a certain antimicrobial effect One very good option is using
widely used come under review but provide a different primary chelating agents. They enhance
for various reasons. function. the antimicrobial effect by weak
On the one hand, we face public Due to their antimicrobial efficacy ening the cell membrane of some
controversy based on safety con which tends to be rather limited, PRESEVATIVES microorganisms. Chelating agents
cerns accompanied by emotions higher levels of use-concentration Most modern, are typically used in sunscreen
and on the other hand, it is also a are needed. non-traditional formulation to avoid discoloration
common process of the EU Com However, combining antimicro preservatives are by UV filters. As expected, our
mission to reassess cosmetic in bial stabilisers in an intelligent less soluble in tests on sunscreens have shown
gredients from a toxicological and way with other factors reducing water, where the that tetrasodium EDTA provides a
microbial activity
legal point of view on a regular the contamination risk such as preservative-boosting effect when
happens
basis. For this reason, we cannot GMP production can achieve a used in higher levels (0.2% active
exclude any discussion per se. sufficient protection against mi matter). Furthermore, tetrasodium
These days the most important croorganisms. glutamate diacetate led to compa
traditional preservative active for In addition, multifunctional addi rable results in our tests.
sunscreen products is phenoxy tives are used as boosters for pre
ethanol, which has been reas servatives to allow lower concen Which combinations of preserv-
sessed by the EU Commission to trations or to ensure a sufficient atives or multifunctional addi-
be safe at max. 1% for all cosmetic efficacy within the maximum dos tives with antimicrobial effect
applications and all age groups. age permitted. are suitable to achieve a
Of course, it is always important well-protected sunscreen prod-
Are antimicrobial stabilisation to prove the effectiveness of the uct?
blends less effective than tradi- protection system with the help of The proportion
tional preservation systems? a microbiological challenge test. of the oil phase Our company tested different sun
in an emulsion screen formulations with various
increases with
Antimicrobial stabilisers, fre How can the antimicrobial ef- organic and/or inorganic UV filter
higher sun protec-
quently called multifunctional ad fect of preservative systems or systems. We offer various blends
tion factors
ditives, are substances which ex alternative blends be enhanced? based on preservative actives as
well as multifunctional additives
to protect sunscreens. Challenge
tests have proven combinations of
aromatic alcohols with glycols or
boosters to be effective. These ac
tives have been chosen to meet
the market and formulation re
quirements and are widely ac
cepted.
The soft preservative blend Euxyl
Multifunctional PE 9010 based on phenoxyethanol
ingredients may boosted by ethylhexylglycerin has
also have antimi- shown a good activity in sun
crobial support
screen products. Multifunctional
or enhancing
additive blends such as Sensiva PA
effects on tradi-
tional preservatives
40* and Sensiva SC 10** are also
suitable combination partners for
product protection. Q
In the past, the choice of a preservation method * phenylpropanol, propanediol and caprylyl glycol
for sun care products played only a minor role **caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin
16 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020 www.cossma.comGO FUTURE: SUN CARE
Product development | Michelle Strutton presents a selection of More product information at
www.cossma.com
sun care products recently featured on the company’s GNPD*. web code 100350
A
s the global clean beauty with a tab claimed to provide an easy
movement continues to grow application and to block 97% UVA
and evolve, natural storylines and UVB rays. FILMOR
are a firm favourite. Sun care is a part It is said to provide stable sun protec- In contrast to sunscreens, the film is
claimed to offer stable protection
of the larger narrative, and brands tion while protecting sensitive skin
need to respond and emphasise their against external stress.
natural, clean and aquatic-safe cre- The soft, non-shiny and waterproof
dentials. film is suitable for any skin tone,
Going forward, those brands likely to keeps skin smooth by evaporating
succeed are those which choose to sweat and provides long-lasting ad-
leverage growing eco-demands, ad- hesion.
dress inclusivity to attract younger It can be used with foundation and
consumers, appeal to consumers’ retails in a pack which ccontains a
wellbeing needs and take account of total of 24 units.
the popularity of evolving product
and claim opportunities for skin mi- Hydrating de-tanning gel
crobiome health. Lass Naturals After Sun De-Tan Gel is
Poor usage and consumer confusion designed to hydrate and de-tan skin,
continue to plague the sector, brands helping it retain moisture, and pro-
can help educate by creating an im- mote healing, while lightening blem-
mersive hands-on experience for sun ishes, and leaving skin clear and ra- Kids sun spray with
care that is educational, fun and Ins- diant. natural filters
tagrammable. The non-greasy gel for all skin types In the UK, the Acorelle Nature Sun
and the entire body is for fast and range is formulated with cold-pressed
Ultra-thin film blocks effective relief from UVA and UVB karanja oil from the pongolote tree,
UVA and UVB rays damage such as hyper-pigmentation offering a natural UV filter that is in-
In Japan, Filmor UV Block Film M Size and sun burn. visible on the skin and free from pho-
is a transparent seven-micron film to-sensitisers. Kids Sun Spray SPF 50
Translucent mineral powder is formulated with pure mineral fil-
for a sun-burn free scalp ters for protection against UVA and
In the UK, Supergoop! Poof 100% UVB rays in a natural way. It con-
Mineral Part Powder SPF 45 is a non- tains antioxidant-rich organic karanja
greasy, translucent, virtually unde- oil to strengthens the skin’s protec-
LASS NATURALS SUPERGOOP!
Non-greasy gel for Virtually undetectable tectable powder with 100% mineral tive barrier, as well as Api Oleo Aktiv,
fast and effective relief powder for scalp and hair actives, which fight UV rays without composed of pollen, propolis, cur-
from sun damage irritating sensitive skin or messing cuma extract and raspberry seed oil,
up the hair to keep the scalp sun- to nourish the skin. Q
burn-free. * Global new products database
The weightless, powdery formula is
packed with vitamin C to provide
antioxidant protection and with sil-
ica, which gently absorbs excess oils.
The product is said to be non-come- AUTHOR:
Michelle Strutton
dogenic, non-irritating and aller-
Global Research Manager
photos: Mintel
gy-tested. Beauty & Personal Care
It is free from parabens, synthetic fra- Mintel, London, UK
www.mintel.com
grance, or oxybenzone.
www.cossma.com l 17GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
Eco-conscious sun protection
Interview | Stéphanie Acker from BASF talks about consumer trends in sun care,
BASF’s new EcoSun Pass methodology and the benefits of nano UV filters.
NN Interview with: COSSMA: What are the most im- trends include for example improved
Stéphanie Acker, Senior Technical portant product trends in sun care protection across the entire UVA and
Manager Sun Care, BASF at present? UVB spectrum, additional protection
Grenzach, Germany against visible blue light as well as
www.carecreations.basf.com Stéphanie Acker, Senior Technical Man- and lighter, more pleasant formula-
ager Sun Care, BASF: Major market tions.
18 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
We are increasingly seeing and ad- Absolutely – it’s all a matter of using market. It is based on the latest sci-
dressing another trend: consumer de- and balancing the right ingredients. entific findings, which improves reg-
mand for products with improved To assess the environmental impact ulatory acceptance.
environmental compatibility and, of the UV filters used in sunscreen
more generally, for more sustainable formulations, our company has de- Which criteria are covered by your
products is on the rise. veloped the EcoSun Pass. This meth- assessment tool?
We expect this trend to continue or odology was created to provide a tool
even accelerate since public discus- for assessing UV filters more holisti- The eight criteria covered by our
sion is focused on environmental is- cally. It is based on internationally evaluation method include bioaccu-
sues. These include as adverse ef- recognised criteria and takes into ac- mulation, biodegradation and Log
fects on corals and marine life, count eight different parameters. Pow, endocrine suspicion, toxicity to
endocrine disruption, and bioaccu- From what we know, it is the first terrestrial organisms, toxicity to sed-
mulation. scientifically sound and transparent iment-dwelling organisms, and acute
system to rank and thus potentially and chronic aquatic toxicity, i.e. the
Do sun care and sustainability go improve the environmental impact of intrinsic capability of a substance to
together? a given formulation available on the cause damage to aquatic organisms
www.cossma.com l 19GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
transparently, regardless of the
supplier. This means that poten-
tial improvements to the UV filter
mixture may or may not involve
our ingredients.
One approach to formulating sun-
screens with improved environ-
mental compatibility is to select
the most efficient UV filters with
better environmental profiles and
use the lowest possible concentra-
tions. This also makes formula-
tions as light as possible without
compromising performance.
What potential do you see for
natural sun care products?
For all UV filters – whether they
are considered natural or not –
What are the effects of sunscreens on corals, marine life, endocrine disruption and bioaccumulation? regulatory hurdles have become
extremely high to the point that it
is almost impossible to get regula-
tory approval for new ingredients.
after short-term or long-term ex- that meet the demands of Since sunscreens claim to have a
posure. Each substance is as- eco-conscious consumers? health-related benefit, they are all
signed a specific environmental CONSUMERS assessed by the same standardised
ranking. require products It enables us to advise formulators ISO in-vivo and in-vitro methods.
All eco-ranked substances in a with improved as early as possible in the devel- Of course, this also applies to nat-
given formulation are then rated environmental opment stage on which UV filter ural filters, since how natural a
on an open-ended scale, starting compatibility combinations are best suited for filter is says nothing about its ef-
at zero for ingredients with the their application – in the interests ficacy or safety. Besides, natural-
worst possible performance. of both the consumer and the en- ness can be defined differently.
We created an algorithm to calcu- vironment. As well as considering The EU positive list contains no
late the effect of a sunscreen for- The evaluation environmental factors for individ- UV filters which are natural by our
mulation on the environment that tool assesses wide- ual UV filters, it provides a com- understanding of the term, mean-
takes the eight parameters into ac- ly-used UV filters, prehensive environmental evalu- ing there is currently no natural
count for each UV filter. The Eco- regardless of the ation for the entire filter system sunscreen on the market that pro-
Sun Pass value for any given for- supplier within a sunscreen product. This vides significant protection.
photos: Denis Belitsky (lead photo), Irina Markova (sea), Tio2_Kateryna (nano), Shutterstock.com
mulation is normalised for its sun enables our customers to evaluate
protection factor to prevent sun- their sunscreens based on all the What are the latest findings on
screens being rated as poor be- relevant environmental aspects the impact of sunscreens on
cause of their high efficacy and The EcoSun Pass and allows for the eco-friendliest coral reefs?
filter concentration. The higher provides a compre- consumer product to be brought
the EcoSun Pass value for a for- hensive environ- onto the market. This issue has been discussed
mental evaluation
mulation, the more environmen- The methodology does not apply widely in the media. However,
of the entire filter
tally friendly it is. only to our company’s products; it there is only very limited data
system within a
sunscreen product
works entirely independently of available on the potential effects
How does this tool help manu- our product portfolio. All wide- of sunscreens on coral reefs. More
facturers formulate sunscreens ly-used UV filters are assessed research needs to be done to de-
velop a meaningful test setup to
investigate corals. Corals react
very sensitively to a variety of en-
“Our EcoSun Pass helps assess widely-used vironmental parameters such as
increased water temperatures and
UV filters, regardless of the supplier” pollution, as well as physical
stress. More research is required
Stéphanie Acker, Senior Technical Manager Sun Care, BASF to understand if and to what ex-
20 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
“Due to regulatory hurdles it has become almost impossible
to get regulatory approval for new ingredients”
Stéphanie Acker, Senior Technical Manager Sun Care, BASF
tent UV filters cause damage to ties, including chemical structure, increasingly wary of all nano par-
coral reefs, to draw the right con- molecular weight, solubility and ticles – a trend driven by the ten-
clusions and ultimately protect polarity, as well as melting point. dency of consumer organisations
the entire reef community better. Both the organic and inorganic and journalists to denigrate prod-
nano filters in our portfolio are More research ucts containing nano particles.
Another issue debated in public very unlikely to penetrate the skin. needs to be done When consumers spot the manda-
is the topic of nanoparticles. With particle sizes starting be- to develop a mean- tory (nano) indication in the in-
What’s the actual problem here? tween 20 and 500 nanometers, ingful test set-up gredients list of any particular
they are vastly bigger than other to investigate product, they are more likely to
According to a definition used by common UV filters which are not corals leave it on the shelf and buy an-
the European Union, nanomate- classified as nano because they are other product instead.
rial means materials with 50 per- soluble in oil or water. In compar-
cent of insoluble particles in the ison to other cosmetic ingredients, What are the advantages of
range between 1 and 100 nanom- nano particles are quite large. nano-sized UV filters?
eters. That means filters are clas- Another fear centres on the acute
sified as ‘nano’ exclusively due to and chronic inhalation toxicity of For particulate UV filters such as
particle size. There are several spray applications. Both acute and MBBT, TBPT, ZnO and TiO2, we
nano filters on the market – inor- chronic inhalation toxicity tests HOW NATURAL can prove that efficacy increases
ganic ones such as zinc oxide are required by the EU Scientific a UV filter is, says with decreasing particle size – and
(ZnO) and titanium dioxide Committee on Consumer Safety nothing about its at the same time, smaller particles
(TiO2), and organic ones such as (SCCS) to confirm safety in spray efficacy or safety have a reduced white-painting ef-
methylene bis-benzotriazolyl te- applications. With a ban on ani- fect. This means that nanoparti-
tramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) mal tests in place, it is virtually cles allow us to formulate more
and tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT). impossible to prove products are effective, lighter, and more trans-
harmless regardless of filter size. parent sunscreens.
One widespread fear is that na- For some widely-used UV filters, Moreover, nanoparticles have a
no particles easily penetrate the whether nano or not, only acute very beneficial triple effect: they
skin and cause undesirable ef- inhalation tests are available. Get- reflect and scatter light due to
fects. ting approval for spray applica- The data avail- their particulate nature. The struc-
tions would be impossible today. able on the poten- ture of organic particles allows for
tial effects of
However, percutaneous absorp- Despite their vastly different prop- the highest absorption which
sunscreens on
tion depends on several proper- erties, consumers are becoming makes them more efficient than
coral reefs are
very limited
inorganic particles.
What would forgoing nanopar-
ticles mean for sunscreen man-
ufacturers?
Nano-sized filters are highly effi-
cient and do not need to be dis-
solved in water or oil. Replacing
them with oil-soluble filters would
The EU posi- require more emollients, making
tive list does formulations heavier and oilier.
not contain any It would also become more diffi-
natural UV filter cult to formulate highly effective
formulations generally, and for-
mulations would be harder to sta-
Nanoparticles help to formulate more effective, bilise.
lighter, and more transparent sunscreens Q
www.cossma.com l 21GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
More information at
www.cossma.com
web code: 100351
Formulation know-how
at its best
Interview | Formulating sun care products is a complex matter.
Dr Christiane Hanay discusses the trends and challenges in sun
filter usage as well as free from products, clean beauty sun care
and natural and reef-safe solutions.
22 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
NN Interview with: We cannot really talk about short- plained to sunscreen manufacturers
Dr Christiane Hanay term trends in this context due to the and distributors as well as consumers.
Managing Director time-consuming approval process of
SkinXpert, Erlinsbach UV filters. When formulating a new What challenges are involved
Switzerland sunscreen product, it is very impor- when formulating sun care prod-
www.skin-xpertch.ch tant to know about the underlying ucts?
photochemistry, the scientific litera-
ture and potential side reactions in There are a number of challenges.
order to avoid undesired side effects First of all, marketing requires an in-
such as phototoxic and photoallergic creasing number of claims on a sun-
reactions which may be caused by screen product.
COSSMA: What are the latest scien- combining new raw materials which Then, more and more substances re-
tific findings in sun care? do not belong in a sun care product. quired for the development of a sun
If we talk about preferences in the care product are discredited. As con-
Dr Christiane Hanay, Managing Direc- selection of UV filters, customers of- sumers become more highly sensi-
tor, SkinXpert: The core message still ten ask for octocrylene and ethylhexyl tised and insecure, they prefer to see
is that the protection of the skin methoxycinnamate (EHMC)-free for- an increasing number of substances
against UVB and UVA II and I radia- mulations. Additionally, especially in excluded from their sun care product.
tion is the major intended use for sun the DACH-region there is a strong re- Last but not least, the regulatory re-
care because the overwhelming ma- quest to avoid potential endocrine quirements for a sunscreen product
jority of melanoma skin cancers are disruptors (ED) such as benzophe- and approval status of UV filters vary
attributed to UV damage. none-3 (oxybenzone), 4-MBC, ho- from region to region
Additionally, a multitude of interest- mosalate, EHMC (octinoxate), benz- All this makes the galenic systems
ing studies during the past few years ophenone-4/5. more complex, more fragile during
have shown that a high amount of If we cannot use octocrylene any their product life cycle and an impor-
free radicals are produced in the vis- more, we will lose the most impor- tant endpoint, such as water resist-
ible light region as additional source tant triplet quencher for the photo ance, are even more difficult to
of oxidative stress and photoageing. stabilisation of the UVA filter Butyl achieve.
About 50% of the total skin oxidative Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM, On the other hand, if the formulation
burden is generated by visible light. avobenzone). Of course, we could is not stable or has unpleasant sen-
In 2019, claims for sun care products stabilise BMBM with the help of sory or inferior protection properties,
continued to diversify and now also BEMT or alternatively, replace BMBM the consumer will not buy it a second
include protection against radicals with DHHB. These new approaches time.
and full light technology. lead to new UV filter platforms in
Due to the specific sunscreen bans of formulations and other issues such What sun care ingredients are cur-
oxybenzone and octinoxate in Palau as the cost of the finished product. rently controversial and why?
and Hawaii, uncertainty about the en- Together with the high testing costs
vironmental impact of sun care prod- required in the development of a new The UV-Filters benzophenone-3 (oxy
ucts is rising and the “reef-safe” claim sun care product, this is in drastic benzone), 4-MBC, homosalate,
has become popular in many regions. contrast to the extremely low sales EHMC (octinoxate), benzophe-
An important new step to monitor prices in the market, especially in none-4/5 are in the list of potential
photos: Supinskaya Glashchenko (sun hat), TierneyMJ (lead photo), Shutterstock.com
the behaviour of sunscreens on the Germany. It is important to realise endocrine disrupters (ED). The col-
human body in vivo is the possibility that it is challenging and needs a lections of data for the SCCS are par-
of visualising the sun protection film high development experience to tially completed. It will be very inter-
on the skin by UV photography. manage the contradictory require- esting to see what evidence further
Finally, in 2019 we saw very impor- ments. This simple example shows studies will find.
tant and ground-breaking progress that conscious decisions are required Titanium Dioxide is proposed as
concerning SPF measurement test in a situation in which compromises CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic or re-
methods, primarily the Hybrid Dif- must be made. This must be ex- protoxic) Cat. 2 classification under
fuse Reflectance Spectroscopy
(HDRS). This is a true milestone in
the direction of non-invasive in vitro/
in vivo SPF testing with validated re-
sults. Preparations are under way to
turn it into an ISO standard.
“The claim ‘free from preservatives’
What are the most important
should not be used any more”
trends in the use of sun filters? Dr Christiane Hanay, Managing Director, SkinXpert
www.cossma.com l 23GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
CLP (classification, labelling and lecular size of soluble UV filters, Many systems used for the purpose
packaging). The risk is associated “nano” is big for sunscreens. of microbiological stabilisation are
with inhalation of the respirable However, for consumers the dec- naturally surface active, they can
part of TiO2 particles. laration “nano” tends to mean disrupt and destabilise the colloi-
It is proven that no other route of hazardous and risk-filled. The UV dal liquid-crystalline gel network.
exposure causes carcinogenicity ABOUT 50% filters with “nano” declaration do For example, glyceryl caprylate
hazard for that raw material of the total skin not penetrate into the skin and are also acts at the oil/water interface.
oxidative burden
(RAC – Risk Assessment Commit- not bioavailable. Levulinic acid salt requires a pH of
is generated by
tee). The MBBT dispersion (Tinosorb M, less than 5.5 and is therefore not
visible light
Therefore, this classification is an Parsol Max) contains decyl glyco- suitable for sunscreen formula-
issue under CLP and not for cos- side which promotes a shift of the tions in which PBSA is to be used.
metics in its application in sun- hydrophilic/lipophilic balance of It is important to take all this into
screens, except for sun sprays. the formulation. MBBT must also consideration before product de-
be declared as nano and can cause velopment, otherwise the entire
What problems have to be con- a whitening of the formulation at system might have to be rede-
sidered when choosing the ap- higher concentration levels. signed later.
propriate UV filters? TBPT-dispersion (Tinosorb A2B)
Stabilising or contains decyl glycoside and must What do you think of free-from
Choosing a UV filter platform replacing BMBM be declared as nano. claims in sun care products?
will increase costs
which largely avoids potential Polysilicone-15 is not silicone-free.
critical issues is probably the big- Only a few UV filters remain with- In the high and very high SPF/
gest challenge. out critical issues, such as Ethyl- UVA-PF segment, fulfilling all re-
UV filters without any concerns hexyl Salicylate (EHS), Ethylhexyl quirements becomes more diffi-
are virtually non-existent. Oc- Triazone (EHT), Diethylhexyl But- cult. This also includes the free-
tocrylene, homosalate, ethylhexyl amido Triazone (DBT), BEMT (Ti- from claims, which are restricted
methoxycinnatate are all in the nosorb S), Diethylamino Hydrox- and part of the technical document
preliminary ED list. ybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate on cosmetic claims.
Fulfilling all
The water-soluble UVB-filter Phe- (DHHB). However, the symmetri- Customers request free-from
requirements
nylbenzimidazole Sulfonic acid becomes increas-
cal and asymmetrical triazines claims, such as octocrylene-free,
salt forms a radical under UV. ingly difficult in have very poor solubility in many ethylhexyl methyoxycinnamate
The UVA filter Butyl Methoxy- the high and very solvents. (EHMC, octinoxate)-free, non-
dibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) high SPF/UVA-PF nano etc. Substitutions for other
must be photo-stabilised. segment What is the challenge when you discredited ingredients, such as
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxides want to claim preservative-free? EDTA, PEG/PPG containing raw
as UV-filters must be declared as materials, silicones and mineral oil
“nano”. It is important to empha- The claim free from preservatives are available.
sise that, in comparison to the mo- should not be used any more. In order to optimise the effective-
ness of a sunscreen product with
the lowest possible total amount of
UV filter, it is necessary to take ac-
tive decisions based on criteria
such as effectiveness, performance,
safety, stability.
What aspects are important for
clean beauty in sun care?
Clean beauty cosmetics have
emerged as a result of a change in
values in Western society. Clean
beauty is the new positive version
of free-from. Some strict clean
beauty standards exclude the use
of synthetic UV filters.
ICADA has issued a black list of
about 3,000 ingredients that are
viewed as critical. Thus, the poten-
UV filters without any concerns are virtually non-existent tial ED list mentioned above is ex-
24 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020 www.cossma.comYou can also read
