"WE WILL STAY AHEAD OF THE TREND" - INGREDIENTS New ingredients for skin brightening p 22 - COSSMA
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www.cossma.com | E51280 4/2020
INGREDIENTS
New ingredients for
skin brightening
p 22
GREEN CONCEPTS
How much PCR is
possible?
p 36
“WE WILL STAY
AHEAD OF THE
TREND”
Ulrich Issberner, Director
Marketing Personal Care BASF
p 56
Naomi, Anne and Marion
love to share fun, adventure – and values.
Their stories. Your products.
Our Plantacare®
The original APG® from BASF – celebrating 25 years in Europe!
Today’s consumers want performance, safety and sustainability.
Connection with nature is an integral part of people’s lifestyles and
values. Serve these needs and wishes with our 100% plant-based
Plantacare ® range – now celebrating 25 years of outstanding
quality and sustainability success in personal care in Europe.
Every story matters.
carecreations.basf.com
Visit us at in-cosmetics 2020 in Barcelona
March 31 to April 2, booth K50
EDITORIAL
Focus on health!
E
ven if you are not directly affected, unfortunately you can no longer close FOLLOW COSSMA ON:
your eyes to the Coronavirus. It has arrived in many countries and is taking
on ever larger dimensions. Even if the disease is mild, it is still important to
be careful and take the necessary precautions; I try to protect myself with the right
hygiene measures. Industrial hygiene also plays an important role in the cosmet-
ics industry and must evolve continuously. Starting p 42, Joelle Nussbaum speaks www.cossma.com
about the latest book on the subject.
Precaution also includes the cancellation of spring trade fair dates, however compli-
cated it may be for everyone involved. Ultimately, this is a goal we strive for in our
www.linkedin.com/company/cossma-digital
daily work: the health and well-being of all: customers, employees, suppliers and
other business partners. With this in mind, I welcome the decision to postpone trade
fairs in order to slow the spread of the virus.
I wish you all the best.
www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine
Stay healthy!
www.youtube.de/cossmatv
Sincerely yours,
Georg von Griesheim,
Managing Director
www.cossma.com l3
Contents
COSSMA 4/2020
8 MARKETS & 16 Interview with Josefine
Schroeder, BTC Europe:
COMPANIES Waterfree challenge
08 News 18 Michelle Strutton, Mintel:
International product
launches
10 GO FUTURE:
BODYCARE
12 Gabriella Beckwith,
20 INGREDIENTS
Euromonitor: Disruptive or 22 Shyam Gupta, PhD, Bioderm
innovative? Research: Natural skin
brightening
26 Dr Natascia Grimaldi,
Patricio Gabarrón, Infinitec
26 Unlocking
more potential
Activos: Unlocking more
potential
28 Formulations: Masks
30 News Ingredients
32 GREEN CONCEPTS
34 Elfriede Dambacher,
Naturkosmetik Konzepte:
Green is growing
36 John Ferro, Silgan
Dispensing:
Using recycled materials
4l COSSMA 4 I 2020
10–18
Current developments
with body care
48 Experts in precision
42 Joelle Nussbaum, SERVICES
BAV Institute: Be more
3 Editorial
sensitive for hygiene
6 Download List
61 Events Diary
44 PACKAGING 62 Suppliers‘ Guide
46 Isabelle Louis, Arcade Beauty: 65 Advertisers’ Index
Producing more ecologically 66 Preview/Imprint
48 Rosa Porras Mansilla, Viro-
spack: Experts in precision
51 News Packaging
53 Review PCD
55 PERSONALITIES &
PROFILES
40 Managing deviations
55 News: Personalities & Profiles
56 Interview with Ulrich Issberner,
BASF: Setting Trends for 25 years
38 MARKETING
40 Dr Klaudia Brysch, Michael
58 EVENTS
Pfeiffer, Pfeiffer Consulting: 58 Imogen Mathews, In-Cosmetics:
Front cover picture:
Managing Deviations Marketing trends Ulrich Issberner, BASF
www.cossma.com l5
SERVICES
Free Downloads
for subscribers | www.cossma.com/download
CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS: WWW.COSSMA.COM/TV
SIMONA ANTONINI DR ADOLF KLENK DOMINIKA MINAROVIC AND
R&D BolognaFiere, Cosmoprof Head of Research, Dr Kurt Wolff ELSIE RUTTERFORD
about an entire production cycle of a about the latest findings in the effects Co-Founders, BYBI Beauty
product that is sustainable. of caffeine. about their products and why these are
unique.
ALESSANDRO PRESTINI SAM FARMER JULIETTE SICOT-CREVET
CEO of Premi Founder of the eponymous brand VP Business, Development Naturals
about customisation andaward- about his brand that offers unisex alter- and Sustainability, Firmenich
winning creations . native products for teenagers. about the company’s achievements in
sourcing sustainable ingredients.
photo: Kiuikson, Shutterstock.com
LOG IN AND TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE!
On the COSSMA website, we post lots of additional information related to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find more than 1,000
useful additional items to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we
cover; market data and statistics; supplier listings; literature references; scientific articles; product formulations and useful base formulations.
Search for the topics you are interested in at www.cossma.com
6 l COSSMA 4 I 2020 www.cossma.com
Amaze™ Nordic Barley Beautifying by nature The sustainably sourced barley starch is produced without the need of chemical modification and enables clean- labeled cosmetic products, speaking in particular to today’s eco-conscious consumers. Amaze Nordic Barley, a 100% natural visual and sensorial formulation enhancer, reduces shine and greasiness of sun and skin care formulations. It delivers excellence on-hair feel and removability from low whitening dry shampoo conditioners. Request a sample today at personalcare.marketing@nouryon.com Visit us at nouryon.com/personalcare for more product information.
MARKETS & COMPANIES
News
Multiple award-winning
employer
Back to
Cologne
LESS EMISSIONS
AKZONOBEL | This year marks the company’s first “Top MACK BROOKS |
Employer” certifications in both the Netherlands and Chemspec Europe, the
the US. With eight consecutive years in the UK, seven in international exhibition
China and four in Brazil, AkzoNobel continues to build on for fine and speciality
its strong track record of people-driven initiatives. Work-
ing environment, company culture and benefits are some
of the topics considered in the rigorous review by the Top
Employers Institute.
www.akzonobel.com To safe nature, Metsä Board works
hard to reduce emissions.
METSÄ BOARD | The producer of
premium fresh fibre paperboards, got its
Chemspec Europe emissions reduction targets approved by
returns to Cologne. the Science Based Targets initiative as
being consistent with the levels required
chemicals, returns to Co- to meet the goals of the Paris Agreement.
logne for its 35th edition. The Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi)
From 27 – 28 May 2020, is a collaboration between CDP, the
renowned manufacturers United Nations Global Compact, World
and suppliers present Resources Institute (WRI) and the World
their latest products, ser- Wide Fund for Nature (WWF).
vices and research find- www.metsaboard.com
ings to a dedicated audi-
For AkzoNobel it is crucial for the business ence of industry experts.
to treat the employees with respect. www.chemspeceurope.com
INVESTMENT
PIRAMAL GLASS | The global specialist in design, production and decoration of niche glass
packaging announces an investment of US$ 42 Million in its greenfield project in Jambusar,
Gujarat, India. The expansion plan includes one new furnace with seven new manufacturing
lines. A plant catering primarily to high-end specialty spirit, food and beverage and pharma-
ceutical markets primarily for exports to countries in Asia, Europe and the US. Mr. Vijay Shah (in front), Vice Chairman, Piramal
www.piramalglass.com Glass Ltd at the Groundbreaking Ceremony.
photos: Akzo Nobel, Mack Brooks, Metsä Board, Piramal Glass, Optima
Positive annual report
OPTIMA | The packaging group has closed out 2019
with a total turnover of more than 400 million euros.
Optima generated more than 85 percent of its sales
abroad with 2,450 employees working around the
globe. Since March 2019, the group has a new subsid-
iary – Rianta Packaging Systems. The inauguration of
the CSPE Center and the logistics center last year set
out Optima’s strategy for the future. For the company,
In July 2019, Optima officially inaugurated the new logistics center 2020 is all about Interpack.
with its new infrastructure and cutting-edge IT technology. www.optima-packaging.com
8l COSSMA 4 I 2020 www.cossma.com
RUBRIKTITEL
News
Stephenson invested in production methods to
strengthen the personal care division.
Investing in production methods
STEPHENSON | The soap base and speciality ingredients
manufacturer Stephenson is continuing to expand by
investing in production methods at its UK headquarters. The
family-owned business has invested over £750,000 in upgra-
ding its Durosoft production facilities, with the objective of
producing more technically advanced and improved natural
products. Stephenson delivers tailor made solutions for per-
sonal care brands and manufacturers worldwide.
www.stephensonpersonalcare.com
S K I N M I C R O B I O TA
The invisible key to beautiful skin
Scientific discoveries for innovative
dermocosmetic concepts
Microflora balancing cosmetics
Dubai to strengthen status as regional beauty capital
at the 25th edition of Beautyworld Middle East.
Discover our new active ingredients:
BIG EVENT FOR A Balance skin microbiota
photos:: Stephenson, Messe Frankfurt Middle East
STRONG MARKET Support beneficial bacteria
MESSE FRANKFURT MIDDLE EAST | Hosting more than Protection of skin microflora
1,800 exhibitors across six product segments the 25th edition
of Beautyworld Middle East will run from 31 May to 2 June
at Dubai World Trade Centre. Leading distributors of beauty
brands are eyeing up the Middle East market which has been
tipped to grow by 6.4 per cent (CAGR) over the next five
years.
www.beautyworldme.com Distributed by
IMPAG Import GmbH
Fritz-Remy-Straße 25 IMPAG Group Country Offices
D-63071 Offenbach am Main Switzerland / Zurich – www.impag.ch
Phone: + 49 (0) 69 850 008 - 0 Germany /Offenbach – www.impag.de
Fax: + 49 (0) 69 850 008 - 90 France / Nancy – www.cossma.com
www.impag.fr l 9
E-Mail: kosmetik@impag.de Poland / Warsaw – www.impag.pl
Web: www.impag.de Austria / Vienna – www.impag.at
10 l COSSMA 4 I 2020
www.cossma.com
photos:VGstockstudio/Shutterstock.com
photo: Lucky Business/Shutterstock.comGO FUTURE
Bodycare
Disruptive or innovative?���������������������������������������������������������������������������p 12
Waterfree challenge ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������p 16
International launches ���������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 18
www.cossma.com l 11Disruptive or innovative?
Markets | Having high market shares now is no longer a guarantee for playing a
leading role in personal care in future. Gabriella Beckwith explains, how renovators,
innovators and disruptors assert their influences.
photos and figures: author; anon_tae/Shutterstock.com
U
oday’s leading beauty brands comers really disruptive? This article
are increasingly under threat explores disruption in the context of
from smaller disruptive play- emerging beauty and personal care
ers. New opportunities, arising from brands, with a focus on Europe, the
changes in consumer behaviour, are Middle East and Africa. It delves into
now often being met by new, beauty innovators in local markets
AUTHOR: fast-growing insurgent brands or lo- that have identified and catered to a
Gabriella Beckwith, Senior Analyst –
Beauty & Fashion, Euromonitor, London, cal businesses with a closer connec- gap in their market and evaluates
United Kingdom, www.euromonitor.com tion to their customers. Are these up- how disruptive these brands are
12 l COSSMA 4 I 2020 www.cossma.comGO FUTURE: BODYCARE
We
encourage
all kinds
of beauty.
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
within their local market. With the word ‘disruption’ being
so influential today across so many industries, Euromonitor
has built a framework around the concept, in order to help
identify and explain what disruption is.
Renovation has a main purpose of re-establishing a brand
within the category it has traditionally served. Innovation is
more transformational, leading to the creation of new sub-
categories.
Lastly, disruption is where a company invents an entirely new
category or market. It is about reconceptualising the market,
creating consistent engagement and being consumer-centric,
often delivering a product or service that meets needs con-
sumers weren’t even aware they had. It’s about leading fear-
lessly, acting boldly and quickly, and not being tied down by
layers of bureaucracy.
While renovation and innovation help companies and indus-
We
tries to evolve, disruption is transformative.
So, who has the power to disrupt? Essentially the answer is
anyone, but Euromonitor has divided that into three catego-
ries
• Insurgents: Small but dynamic, fast-growing brands who
believe that
tend to steal market share from bigger players.
taking care
is taking
action.GO FUTURE: BODYCARE
NN EXAMPLES OF LOCAL INNOVATIVE • Incumbents: Well-known large cal brands, disruption has been
BRANDS FROM WESTERN EUROPE: multinationals who already hold slower to take off, particularly as
Renovator: Bilou, Germany significant market share and re- markets such as Russia and the
A vegan hair care and shower sources, often using incubation as Ukraine remain characterised by
range launched by popular a strategy when aiming to dis- price-sensitive consumers due to
German YouTuber Bianca rupt. fluctuations in disposable income.
Claßen, offering diverse • Local brands: Brands that disrupt Skin care has experienced the big-
flavours such as ‘Tasty on a local scale in their home gest surge in innovative brands,
Doughnut’. market, due to their close connec- boosted by demand for high-quality
tion to consumers. natural brands. Compared to West-
Innovator: Beautonomy, ern Europe, the natural trend is at
UK Market in Western Europe an earlier stage of development,
Face and eye palettes. Custom- The top five beauty and personal meaning opportunity remains for
ers can personalise both the care players in Western Europe make niche natural brands to enter the
product and the packaging up 38% of the total market value. scene.
used and then sell the end Most of the top players have experi- In Hungary for example, Deciem’s
result on the Beyutonomy mar- enced flat or declining value share The Ordinary saw a powerful debut
ketplace for commission. in recent years, under the emergence in 2018, known for its simple formu-
of smaller insurgent brands ap- lae and ingredient transparency.
Disruptor: Lesielle, Spain proaching consumers directly with Niche unisex fragrances are also per-
Personalised skin care at an “authentic” messaging and unique forming well, particularly among af-
affordable price. Lesielle’s product propositions. fluent Eastern European consumers
device allows consumers to Multinationals are being challenged searching for more authenticity and
make their own skin care at by newcomers responding to de- individuality.
home, adapting to individual mand for natural and efficacious Internet retailing is also gaining mo-
needs on different days. beauty products, success stories in- mentum in Eastern Europe, again
cluding Germany-based Dr Barbara boosting the rise of niche brands.
Sturm and UK’s The Inkey List. This is particularly key in larger mar-
Colour cosmetics also faces pressure kets, where the in-store availability
from smaller disruptors. In Euro- of smaller brands in remote areas is
monitor’s Beauty Survey, the per- limited. Czech based online retailer
NN EXAMPLES OF LOCAL INNOVATIVE centage of respondents in Europe Notino has been expanding its pres-
BRANDS FROM THE MIDDLE EAST who would prefer an “on-trend, ence, launching into Russia in 2019,
AND AFRICA: new-to-me brand” colour cosmetics while Sephora also launched into
Renovator: Joviality, Egypt brand over a previously used brand, Russia last year, increasing the avail-
Products are made from 100% has increased year on year since ability of niche brands.
natural ingredients. They are 2015.
produced in Egypt, and contain Drugstores have performed well in Markets in Middle East
inter-esting flavours such as the last years, fuelled by retailers and Africa
Apple Cinnamon and Ylang enhancing their beauty offerings. Among all regions, the Middle East
Ylang. Boots in the UK revamped its beauty and Africa is the most fragmented.
sections, while German drugstore Disruption in the region is diverse,
Innovator: Portia M, dm launched its private label brand predominantly due to differences in
South Africa 183 days, bringing new innovations ethnicities, beauty standards and in-
Caters to the skin care chal- to market every 183 days to target come levels. Domestic players tend
lenges faced by African young experimental consumers. to have a large presence, with the
women. Contains locally Internet retailing is the fastest grow- top five beauty and personal care
sourced Marula oil a familiar ing channel in the region, driven by players contributing just 30% of to-
ingredient passed down beauty retailers such as Feelunique tal value sales in the region.
through generations.. and Cocopanda, and online giants Hair care is the largest and most dy-
Amazon and Zalando, all of which namic category here. African con-
Innovator: Fré, Israel are expanding their beauty offers. sumers are turning towards smaller
Products are formulated specif- niche brands that can offer person-
ically for wom-en who work Market in Eastern Europe alised products, due to the feeling
out, with the unique position- The top five beauty and personal that multinationals fail to offer prod-
ing “sweat beautifully”. Prod- care players in Eastern Europe make ucts suited to one’s individual hair
ucts are also 100% vegan and up 35% of the total market. Despite type. Similarly, tailor-made skin care
cruelty free. a growing interest for niche and lo- and colour cosmetics brands are
14 l COSSMA 4 I 2020 www.cossma.comGO FUTURE: BODYCARE
NN EXAMPLES OF LOCAL INNOVATIVE
BRANDS FROM EASTERN EUROPE:
Renovator:
Beauty Bomb, Russia
Bright, bold and affordable
make-up, targeting a digital-
35th International Exhibition for
ly-savvy younger audience. Fine and Speciality Chemicals
Strong use of online promotion,
with the brand philosophy
being beauty without rules. Koelnmesse, Cologne, Germany
Innovator:
27 – 28 May 2020
One Ingredient, Poland
High-quality natural products
with minimalistic formulas, fea-
turing a high content of snail
slime, the active ingredient.
Interesting packaging design
and ecological approach.
Disruptor: [n]fibrecare,
Czech Republic
The first Czech high-tech dry
sheet face masks, made with
nanofibres. The brand’s
ground-breaking technology
has generated much media
attention.
Europe’s No 1 trade fair
for the fine and speciality
gaining popularity, especially those catering to African com-
plexions, such as Pauline cosmetics in Kenya. Fragrances chemicals industry
have traditionally been engrained in the culture of many
Middle Eastern countries. Niche luxury scents are contin- Chemspec Europe 2020 is the place to be: Find bespoke
uing to grow in the region, with well-known brands like solutions & innovative substances for your enterprise and
Huda Beauty. take your networking to the next level
Supermarkets dominate the region’s beauty landscape,
while internet retailing does not even fall into the top six • custom synthesis
• pharmaceuticals Top conferences and workshops
channels. The presence of online retailing is much stronger
offer valuable insights into
in the Middle East. We can expect changes as technology • fine chemicals ongoing R&D projects!
advances and social media’s influence rises. Already in • chemical intermediates Agrochemical Lecture Theatre
South Africa we are seeing changes, such as Superbalist,
• agrochemicals Chemspec Careers Clinic
who recently launched a beauty shop on their website.
• paints & coatings Pharma Lecture Theatre
These local brands draw success from their ability to trade
on local knowledge, understand the needs of their local • green chemicals Regulatory Services
consumers, and create something unique to their home • household & industrial Lecture Theatre
market. Looking back at the framework, renovation and cleaning RSC Lecture Theatre
innovation help companies and industries to evolve, • bio-based chemicals Innovative Start-ups
through novel formats, ingredients, new ways of engaging • biocatalysts
with consumers and so on. • cosmetics
While disruption is meant to be transformative, it’s about
• electronic chemicals
creating real value for the consumer, and meeting needs
• and much more
they might not have been aware they had. Disruptors see
beyond the rules of the market and put consumers at the
centre of everything they do. Q
Get your ticket now:
www.chemspeceurope.com
Organisers: Mack Brooks Exhibitions LtdGO FUTURE: BODYCARE
waterfree Challenge
Inter view
Ingredients | In order for meet consumers’ demand for zero-waste
products, waterfree formulations have become a sustainable alternative
in personal care. Josefine Schroeder explains the rapid development.
NN Josefine Schroeder, COSSMA: In the last years water- significantly contributed to the
fotos: author, Ellistar/Shutterstock.com
Senior Technical Expert free formulations have become a greater use of waterfree formulations.
Personal Care, BTC Europe, growing trend in the personal care With a world population projected to
Monheim am Rhein, Germany, industry. Why? reach the mark of 10 billion by 2050,
www.btc-europe.com water will become an even scarcer
Josefine Schroeder: The growing in- source. As a result, companies in the
terest in sustainable products and the personal care industry have been
increasing awareness for re- looking into new ways to reduce wa-
source-friendly technologies have ter consumption while at the same
16 l COSSMA 4 I 2020GO FUTURE: BODYCARE
time finding innovative solutions to ter and that are easy o process. We
meet the increasing demand for skin also used different types of sur-
and hair care products.Figures from factants in order to obtain optimal
the year 2019 show that in Germany, foaming and cleansing while mini-
for example, consumers spent 3.3 bil- mising skin sensivity and abrasion.
lion Euros on skin and face care – The balance between the different
3.3% more than in 2018. We experi- ingredients’ ratios in the formulation
ence a rising demand with our is crucial for the outcome.
customers in the last years, especially
for personal care products wich are Which ingredients are best, and
more sustainable. which are less suitable? All ingredients of solid products should
Waterfree formulations without en- have a high level of solubility in cold water.
vironmentally harmful packaging All ingredients should have a high
have therefore become a suitable al- level of solubility in cold water. In
ternative in the personal care indus- addition, a surfactant like Sulfopon
try. At BTC Europe, we are already 1214 G is well suitable for waterfree
offering our customers waterfree formulations due to its good cleans- Equally important is the abrasion of
product solutions. Our recent product ing and foaming performances. Cat- the product, for example: soap bars.
collection – our Solid Collection – for ionic conditioning agents like De- If the consistency of the final bar is
example, has been created in coop- hyquart A-CA are well suited for too firm, the cleansing effect is di-
eration with our colleagues from achieving better combing. minished. Here, the mixture of differ-
BASF and was presented at the last Waxes with a high melting point are ent waxes generates the right amount
Sepawa in Berlin. The idea was to highly effective since they are resist- of abrasion.
create a collection of products based ant to high temperatures. This prop- When producing hair care products
on waterfree formulations such as erty is extremely important for prod- like shampoo bars, cationic condi-
easy foaming shampoos, solid condi- ucts distributed mainly in southern tioning agents are essential to an ef-
tioners, cream shower bars and more. countries where higher outside tem- fective formulation. Since human
peratures prevail. Cegesoft HF 62, for hair is negatively charged, cationic
example, is a cosmetic wax compo- conditioning agents are indispensa-
nent consisting of hydrogenated veg- ble delivering a good combing per-
etable oil that is used as solid emol- formance.
lient and for the stabilisation of many
solid products. How do waterfree formulations
On the contrary, diluted ingredients correspond to diluted formulations
are not conducive to waterfree for- in terms of performance?
mulations since they influence emul-
sification properties, stability and In order to compare our solid sham-
abrasion. A high amount of emol- poo and conditioner bars with tradi-
lients compromises the foaming be- tional systems like liquid shampoos
To obtain an optimal dispersion, the right havior as it generates an emulsions, and conditioners, we made test trials
ratio between wax and surfactants is which inhibits foam formation. on the conditions of combing wet
necessary.
and dry hair of diluted shampoo and
Are there any special conditions conditioner bars. Wet and dry comb-
that need to be considered regard- ing can be reduced via cationic ingre-
ing waterfree formulations? dients like Dehyquart Guar. The de-
What are the main challenges with gree of cationization influences the
waterfree formulations? The ratio between the waxy part and hair smoothness and the electrostatic
the surfactant part is important. The repulsion.
Choosing the right ingredients is es- amount of the wax should always be For the consumer, this becomes ob-
sential to waterfree formulations. higher than the amount of surfactant vious in reduced combing.
When we produced the different in order to obtain an optimal disper- The dilution of the bars was impor-
solutions for our collection, for ex- sion of the product. tant to gain the same active ingredi-
ample the easy foaming shampoo or For an optimal performance, the spe- ent content – the amount of cleansing
the solid conditioner, we used ingre- cific kind of surfactant as well as its substances in the surfactant – as tra-
dients that have the same properties ratio in the formulation are important ditional applications. The tested
as those used in conventional, di- for generating a high amount of products showed the same or an even
luted formulations. We chose sur- foam, thereby providing a good better performance than traditional
factants that quickly dissolve in wa- cleansing effect. systems. Q
www.cossma.com l 17GO FUTURE: NEW IDEAS
Product development | This month Mintel is highlighting body care
products. Latest research concludes that brands with a clean, green narrative
and the safe and effective reputation of dermocosmetics can reach more
consumers.
O
ver the next five years the transformation of white to brown
A-Beauty will take off in the adipocytes, while offering thwarting Herbivore
West, charged by the popu- recurrence by slowing the entry of The oil retails in
larity of holistically healthy lifestyles glucose into fat cells. The concentrate a 30 ml bottles.
and natural, sustainable products. also contains hyaluronic acid with a
Ayurveda bodycare will be embraced smoothing, moisturising effect, and
by Europeans and Americans who features a floral scent of iris, rose and
want clean beauty solutions that im- jasmine to charm the senses. It has a
prove mind and body. pink gel texture with an immediate
cold effect that actively contributes
Say “no” to dimples to the slimming efficiency.
The range of Laboratoires Lierac
Body-Slim includes “Concentré Cry- Moisture for sensitive skin
oactif Cellulite Incrustée” (Embed- The brand d Program offers products
ded Cellulite Cryoactive Concentrate) for sensitive skin that are non-irritat-
that has been designed to tackle en- ing. With strictly selected ingredients
crusted cellulite, and visibly soften the formulations do not use alcohol,
the curves, while diminishing bulges fragrances nor paraben. The “Balance
and smoothing dimples. Its active Care” range aims to prevent water
caffeine complex is said to stimulate and oil imbalance. Available as part
destocking, while WTB System trans- of this is “Emulsion II”, described vitality. The products are said to fea-
forms white storage fat cells into fat as a lightweight, silky-smooth for- ture intoxicating scents and luxuri-
brown adipocytes. It is also devel- mula that continuously moisturises ous textures to provide a little indul-
oped with the active ingredient an- and nourishes skin, repairs skin’s mi- gence for enjoyable rituals. They are
ti-relapse Pro-Irisine, to stimulate the cro-damage and strengthens its tex- free from animal cruelty, synthetic in-
naturally produced irisin, boosting ture. The easy-to-spread, non-acne- gredients, and are retailed in recycla-
genic formula with low irritation is ble and reusable packaging. Availa-
also said to prevent and improve dis- ble as part of the brand is “Emerald
comfort such as stinging, itchiness Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Deep Mois-
and redness, while also defending ture Glow Oil”, featuring ingredients
Laboratoires Lierac d Program skin from reccurring roughness. such ascannabis sativa seed (hemp)
Caffeine complex with Emulsion II is free of oil, shiitake mushroom and ashwa-
cryolipolysis mechanisms. alcohol, fragrances Pure natural power gandha root help to calm skin and
and preservatives.
Herbivore is said to provide safe, non- soothe irritations. According to the
toxic and effective products that use manufacturer, it provides skin with
the power of nature to deliver tangi- rich moisture and glow, all in a light-
ble results. The highly concentrated weight and quick-absorbing formula.
formulas feature ethically-sourced, It is free from THC and CBD. Q
and certified organic active ingre-
dients, plant-based food-grade cold
pressed oils, steam distilled thera-
peutic grade essential oils, vitamins, AUTHOR:
photos: Mintel
minerals, GMO-free soy wax and nat- Michelle Strutton, Global
Research Manager Beauty & Per-
ural preservative Leucidal from rad- sonal Care, Mintel, London, UK,
ish root ferment to restore skin to its www.mintel.com
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20 l COSSMA 4 I 2020
www.cossma.com
Africa Studio/Shutterstock.com
photos:Aquarius
photo: Studio/Shutterstock.comINGREDIENTS
Natural skin brightening ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 22
Unlocking more potential����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 26
Formulations: Masks ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 28
www.cossma.com l 21Research | Many
consumers ask for skin
lightening products for
their anti-ageing skin care.
Scientists are continuing
to work on new active
ingredients. Here is an
overview of the current
status
Natural Skin Brightening
kle-free skin. With chronological age- skin. For example, the efficacy of
ing, dark spots, skin pigmentation, such ingredients can be significantly
freckles, and other visually percepti- reduced, or even lost, if they pene-
ble skin disorders, they often require trate too deeply or not at all into skin
treatment with skin lightening prod- or fail to reach their biological site of
ucts. Modern science has focused on action in optimal quantities. Sun-
AUTHOR:
Shyam Gupta, PhD, Bioderm Research, this omnipresent consumer desire to screens, for example, must not pen-
Scottsdale, Arizona, USA, www.biodermre- open new opportunities for market- etrate too deeply into the skin. Oth-
search.com
ers and formulators worldwide. erwise, their efficacy would be
New ingredients or improving visual compromised and skin irritation
appearance of skin are constantly de- would increase. Skin whitening and
M
other Nature blessed man- veloped. This article focuses on new brightening agents, however, must
kind with a skin that pro- skin brightening ingredients, discov- penetrate skin to reach tyrosinase-ac-
photo: aslysun/Shutterstock.com
vides a multitude of func- ered in the past five years. tive cellular layers.
tions: from protection from For these ingredients to deliver their Any antioxidant or anti-inflammatory
environemntal adversities to the ex- function optimally, innovative topical agent can also function as a skin
pression of beauty. For the expression delivery systems are required to trans- brightening agent. The efficacy of
of beauty, consumers desire young- port such ingredients to reach their such ingredients can be maximized
er-looking, vibrant, supple and wrin- targeted biological site of action in by formulating via appropriate deliv-
22 l COSSMA 4 I 2020INGREDIENTS
ery systems. This requires a consid- some discolouration under their nor- chemical species. For example, hy-
eration of both the physical and mal storage conditions. droquinone and arbutin can function
chemical properties of such ingredi- Additionally, the presence of oxidiz- via both mechanisms: they can block
ents. ing metals such as Fe, Cu, and Ni, tyrosinase antagonistically or reduce
even in trace amounts, can lead to melanin colour (eliminating double
Reaching the right skin layer discolorations from reddish brown to bond conjugation in melanin’s chem-
For example, popular skin brighten- bluish green tints in topical formula- ical structure). In this regard arbutin,
ing agents, hydroquinone, kojic acid, tions. Usually, the greater their antiox- a glycoside of hydroquinone, is first
and arbutin, are fairly water soluble idant or skin brightening efficacy the converted into hydroquinone in vivo,
(5.0 – 6.0 g/100 mL). The use of such faster this discolouration. This leads which then carries out its dual func-
ingredients in formulations for rinse- to ever-present formulation chal- tion as hydroquinone.
off products, such as a suntan, sun- lenges with such ingredients. Hy- Ideally, a truly elegant new skin
screen, bar soap, or body wash, can droxyphenyl ingredients, including brightening ingredient should func-
lead to significantly reduced skin flavones, isoflavones, and flavonoids, tion by the above two mechanisms
brightening benefits. In the case of are better formulated in an acidic pH without imparting any undesirable
sunscreens formulations, which must range (preferably 5.5 to 6.5), as their after effects, such as skin irritation
not penetrate deep into skin, skin degradation is faster under pH con- caused by hydroquinone, which has
brightening ingredients may not ditions higher than 8.0. The inclusion caused regulatory concerns in several
reach tyrosinase active centres in ef- of appropriate metal chelating agents international markets.2 In general,
ficacious concentrations. is also recommended. A carefully the incorporation of more than one skin
In case of bar soap or body wash planned protocol for formulation sta- brightening ingredient in a formulation
products such brightening agents bility, efficacy, and safety gives best is more beneficial in producing the
may simply get washed off when results for developing an efficacious desired skin lightening effect than a
rinsing the body after body wash ap- consumer acceptable product adapt- single ingredient on an equal weight
plication, resulting in an insufficient able for international markets. basis, especially if such ingredients
deposit on skin. Formulations de- provide their biochemical function
signed for leave-on or night-time use New skin brightening via different pathways.
of such ingredients can provide ingredients
greater efficacy. Researchers, formulators, and mar- Brightened horizon for
keters are always focused on “what anti-ageing skin care
Problem of stability and is new and exciting”. An unquench- A non-comprehensive listing of re-
discolouration able search for skin brightening in- cently discovered skin brightening
Formulation stability is another con- gredients and technologies has en- agents is provided in Table 1.3 A
cern. A large number of skin bright- sued since Elizabethan era.1 In number of these ingredients may not
ening ingredients contain a hydroxy-, practical terms, this effort has been be commercially available at this
dihydroxy-, or polyhydroxyphenyl successful via the pursuit of two basic time, which signals an opportunity
chemical backbone. Such chemical biochemical mechanisms: oxidase and for ingredient manufacturers, formu-
compositions – besides being yellow monooxygenase functions. This can lators, and marketers worldwide.
to orange in colour – are also good either prevent melanin formation by In several articles both natural and
antioxidants. They naturally tend to blocking tyrosinase (tyrosinase inhib- synthetic skin whitening agents have
discolor in the presence of air and/ itors) or reduce existing melanin pig- been reviewed.4
or light. This is not unexpected, as ment (or melanin precursor biochem- A natural product, bis(4-hydroxyben-
most antioxidants do tend to produce ical intermediates) to a decolourised zyl)sulfide, extracted from a Chinese
NN SKIN BRIGHTENING AGENTS
Dihydroxyphenylethyl glycine n-Butylresorcinol trans-Cafferoyl stearate bis-ethylhexanoate
Hydroxycinnamic acid Asiaticoside Norartocarpetin Azaresveratrol
Phenylethyl resorcinol Metformin Eupafolin Hydroxychalcone
Panduratin, Isopanduratin Afzelin Catechin Ovatodiolide
Galangin Glabridin Rengyolone Gnetin C
Asterina pectinifera Polyarginine Citrus press-cakes Raspberry Ketone
Gastrodia elata 6-O-Cafferoylarbutin Gingerol Ramalin
Hoelen extract Acanthoic acid Octaphlorethol Glyceollin
p-Hydroxybenzyl alcohol Guggulsterone Cyclohexanediol
www.cossma.com l 23INGREDIENTS
It is remarkable that none of the na-
ture-based skin brightening ingredi-
ents have matched the efficacy of
hydroquinone in a formulated cos-
metics product. This may be due to
its unique ability to perform both
reduction and oxidation steps effi-
ciently via hydroquinone/quinole/
quinone redox pathway.14
Many new and exciting whitening
actives have been developed in the
past five years; their discovery often
aided by computational modelling
techniques. These new actives, cou-
pled with tailor-made delivery sys-
In the laboratory, the effects of tyrosinase inhibitors are still being researched tems, can help marketers, formulat-
ers and ingredients suppliers
worldwide find innovative solutions
for enhancing the customer’s topical
herbal source, Glastrodia elata, has Since this is a sulfhydryl peptide the beauty. Q
shown exceptional tyrosinase inhibi- odour contribution to formulations is
References
tion properties superior to kojic unknown as it is not yet commer- 1. Blay, The Journal of Pan African Studies, vol. 4, (2011). ht-
tp://www.academia.edu/602086/Skin_Bleaching_and_
acid.5 In practical formulations the cially available. Global_White_Supremacy_By_Way_of_Introduction.
development of off-odours due to its 2. S. Gupta, Beauty Brightened: New Skin Brightening Ingre-
dients, GCI, 30 – 32 (2014).
sulfide bond may have to be ad- Identification with modern tools 3. Zolghadri et al., A comprehensive review on tyrosinase in-
hibitors, J Enzyme Inhib Med Chem. 2019 Dec;34(1):279-
dressed, since this molecule is easy Computational modelling has be- 309. DOI: 10.1080/14756366.2018.1545767;
Pillaiyar et al., Skin whitening agents: medicinal che-
to manufacture commercially by sim- come a successful tool in the identi- mistry perspective of tyrosinase inhibitors, J Enzy-
me Inhib Med Chem. 2017 Dec; 32(1):403-425. DOI:
ple synthesis. fication of potential new tyrosinase 10.1080/14756366.2016.1256882; Lee et al., Natu-
ral, Semisynthetic and Synthetic Tyrosinase Inhibitors,
It is worthy to note that most prior inhibitors. DMY has been reported to J Enzyme Inhib Med Chem, 31 (1), 1-13, 2016;DOI:
10.3109/14756366.2015.1004058; Kanlayavattanakul,
studies of tyrosinase inhibition have inhibit tyrosinase. Molecular model- Plants and Natural Products for the Treatment of Skin Hy-
perpigmentation – A Review, Planta Med 2018; 84(14):
been carried out with mushroom ty- ling found that this ingredient inter- 988-1006; DOI: 10.1055/a-0583-0410.
rosinase. In a recent study the use of acted with amino acid residues 4. Chen et al., Discovery of highly potent tyrosinase inhi-
bitor, T1, with significant anti-melanogenesis ability by
recombinant human tyrosinase for Tyr78, His85, and Ala323, occupying zebrafish in vivo assay and computational molecular
modeling, Sci Rep. 2015 Jan 23; 5:7995. DOI: 10.1038/
screening purposes has been more the active site leading to the inhibi- srep07995.
5. Mann et al., Inhibition of Human Tyrosinase Requires Mo-
predictive. The introduction of a new tion of tyrosinase. This study may lecular Motifs Distinctively Different From Mushroom Ty-
rosinase, J Invest Dermatol, 138 (7), 1601-1608 Jul 2018;
skin brightening agent, isobuty- provide a new method for screening DOI: 10.1016/j.jid.2018.01.019.
lamido thiazolyl resorcinol (Thiami- tyrosinase inhibitors.9 In another 6. Dilokthornsakul et al., The Clinical Effect of Glutathione
on Skin Color and Other Re-lated Skin Conditions: A Sys-
dol) resulted from this research.6 study, computational modelling tematic Review, J Cosmet Dermatol, 18 (3), 728-737 Jun
2019; DOI: 10.1111/jocd.12910; Sonthalia et al., Glutathi-
Although it is a synthetic ingredient, showed validamycin to be a potent one for skin lightening: a regnant myth or evidence-based
verity?, Dermatol Pract Concept. 2018 Jan 31; 8(1):15-
it offers an insight into the biochemi- tyrosinase inhibitor by binding at 21. DOI: 10.5826/dpc.0801a04. eCollection 2018 Jan.
7. Shen et al., Novel Tyrosinase Inhibitory Peptide Wi-
cal mechanisms by which skin bright- HIS85, HIS244, GLU256, HIS259, and th Free Radical Scavenging Abili-ty, J Enzyme In-
hib Med Chem, 34 (1), 1633-1640 Dec 2019; DOI:
ening can be achieved for future ASN260 of the tyrosinase active-site.10 10.1080/14756366.2019.1661401.
research. Similar computational modelling has 8. Fan et al., An Inhibition Mechanism of Dihydromyrice-
tin on Tyrosinase and the Joint Effects of Vitamins B 6,
Glutathione has long been proposed been successful in evaluating tyrosi- D 3 or E,Food Funct, 8 (7), 2601-2610 2017 Jul 19; DOI:
10.1039/c7fo00236j.
as a skin whitening natural tripeptide nase inhibition by several Chinese 9. Wang et al., The effect of validamycin A on tyrosinase:
Inhibition kinetics and computational simulation, Int J
ingredient. However, controversy has medicinal plant extracts.11 Biol Macromol, 55, 15-23 Apr 2013; DOI: 10.1016/j.ijbio-
mac.2012.12.040.
shrouded its real efficacy.7 Despite of A recombinant enzyme complex has 10. Gao et al., Predicting Tyrosinase Inhibition by 3D QSAR
this, it should be noted that even a been proposed as the next generation Pharmacophore Models and Designing Potential Tyro-
sinase Inhibitors From Traditional Chinese Medicine Da-
0.2% use of this ingredient in a top- skin whitening agent. However, its tabase, Phytomedicine, 38, 145-157 2018 Jan 1; DOI:
10.1016/j.phymed.2017.11.012.
ical skin care product can lead to commercial viability is yet un- 11. Shin et al., Effective Melanin Degradation by a Syn-
ergistic Laccase-Peroxidase Enzyme Complex for Skin
sulphur odours which are unaccept- known.12 Moreover, its practical for- Whitening and Other Practical Applications, Int J Biol
Macromol, 129, 181-186 2019 May 15; DOI: 10.1016/j.
Photo: Nawanit/Shutterstock.com
able to the customer (practical expe- mulation may pose skin delivery ijbiomac.2019.02.027.
rience of this author). challenges.13 As mentioned earlier, a 12. Shin et al., Development and evaluation of topical for-
mulations for a novel skin whitening agent (AP736)
Dihydromyricetin (DMY), a new pep- proper delivery system is required for using Hansen solubility parameters and PEG-PCL poly-
mers, Int J Pharm, 552 (1-2), 251-257 2018 Dec 1; DOI:
tide that is structurally related to glu- most topical skin brightening agents 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2018.09.064; S. Gupta, Topical deli-
very of skin care ingredients, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol
tathione, has shown tyrosinase inhi- to assure both their physically stabil- 129, No. 8, 26 – 39 (2014).
13. Chen et al., Unveiling characteristics of dye-bearing
bition via a mechanism unrelated to ity and their targeted delivery into microbial fuel cells for energy and materials recycling:
Redox mediators, Int J Hyd Energy, Volume 38, Issue 35,
that of glutathione.8 the skin.13 22 November 2013, Pages 15598-15605.
24 l COSSMA 4 I 2020 www.cossma.comCAN YOU KEEP A SECRET? Find out more and visit us at in-cosmetics global, 31 March – 2 April 2020, Barcelona, Booth N20 Contact us for more information: care@zschimmer-schwarz.com
Unlocking more potential
Formulation | Although currently in great demand in cosmetics,
Cannabidiol is quite chemically unstable. A study about effectiveness
while embedded in capsules seems promising. Here are the results.
Activys capsules have been selected cytes treated with arachnoids acid
among the delivery system platforms (20 microM) and figure 1C refers to
available for encapsulating the active sebocytes treated with arachnoids
ingredient and granting its dispersion acid (20 microM) and CBD oil bal-
in water-based formulae as well as ance at 0.02%. Lipids are stained by
protecting it from premature oxida- oil red. When sebocytes are treated,
AUTHORS:
Dr Natascia Grimaldi, Area Sales Manager, tion. lipogenesis induced by arachnoids
Patricio Gabarrón, Efficacy and Safety More in details, these are lipid-based acid is dramatically inhibited.
Manager, Infinitec Activos, Barcelona, Spain, capsules, made of polyunsaturated A semi-quantitative analysis has
www.infinitec.es
fatty acids (PUFAs). Because of their been also performed: The combina-
composition, they are more flexible tion of actives is able to reduce the
than conventional capsules, resulting induced lipogenesis by a 33%.
D
ifferent actives are nowadays in improved penetration. Further-
available for oily skin treat- more, a unique feature is that it is an Anti-inflammatory ability
ment, but most of them just active-per-se capsule; upon penetra- As discussed above, activys capsule
work either on sebum production, or tion, the capsule is metabolized and has the unique feature to be ac-
inflammation or have antibacterial or CBD is released. tive-per-se. It shows anti-inflamma-
Photos: Kimberly Boyles/Shutterstock.com, author
anti-mycotic activity. Cannabidiol tory activity, and enhances CBD ac-
(CBD) can both regulate sebum pro- Sebum control tivity. In order to assess this, we have
duction and exhibit anti-inflamma- The ability of CBD in combination performed gene expression analysis,
tory activity. with capsules to inhibit excessive se- targeting specific genes involved in
Unfortunately, it is a highly lipophilic bum production has been demon- the inflammatory process.
molecule and suffers of chemical in- strated by oil-red assay. For this The study has been performed using
stability, undergoing oxidation. Be- study, there was used arachnoids human keratinocytes (HaCaT) as
cause of this, it is important to use acid as lipogenesis enhancer. Figure skin cell model and human follicle
appropriate vehicles for unlocking 1A refers to not treated sebocytes dermal papilla cells (HFDPC) as scalp
CBD potential. (control), figure 1B refers to sebo- cell model. The capsules have dis-
26 l COSSMA 4 I 2020INGREDIENTS
fig 1: Oil-red assay (A) non-treated sebocytes; (B) sebocytes treated with 20 microM arachnoid acid; (C) sebocytes treated with 20 microM
arachnoid acid and 0.02% of CBD oil balance.
played significant anti-inflammatory
effects both on HaCaT and on HF- Product Critical Microorganisms
DPC, by reducing the inflammation Concentration
of a 40% average. S. Aureus M. Restricta M. Globosa
CBD Oil Balance MIC 0.005% 0.2% 0.2%
Microflora balancing MBCINGREDIENTS
MORE INFORMATION
ONLINE
You can access the details of each
formulation at www.cossma.com
webcode 100362.
Masks
Formulations | They are more than just a treatment. A lot of consumers love
maks for the concentrated active ingredients they feel on their skin while they
enjoy a little break – at home or in the cosmetic studio. We present a selection
of formulations and ingredients suppliers that provide a comprehensive look
at the latest innovations in the market.
Mild Jelly Shower Gel Dry Peel Off Mask – Superwoman Hydrating and purifying clay Mask
Azelis Eckart Roelmi HPC
Happy Natural Day Shower Gel Repair Hair Mask Bamboo Glow – Purifying Black Peel-off
BASF GfN Selco Mask
Peel Off Mask Gold Color Changing Clay Mask Safic Alcan
BASF Kobo
photo: Prostock Studio/Shutterstock.com
Conditioning Mask with vegetable oils.
Unisex Tissue Mask Matte Lite TF6 Seppic
Biesterfeld MMP
Snow Glitter Peel Off Mask Mango Hair Mask
In the Mai issue, we will be focusing on formulations for
CLRC Spezialchemie NRC natural and organic cosmetics. In June, formulations for
sun care for all skins and all over the body will take cen-
tre stage. All of the information published here has been
Scoobable Hair Soufflé Fresh scalp revival mask carefully assembled. Neither the publishers nor the de-
Croda Provital velopers of these formulations can accept responsibility
for their safety or accuracy.
28 l COSSMA 4 I 2020 www.cossma.comADVERTISEMENT INGREDIENT HIGHLIGHT
In the BELSIL® eco manufacturing
process, the use of fossil-based raw
materials is compensated 100% by
biomethanol from renewable resources.
photo: Wacker Chemie AG
BELSIL® ECO
Beauty meets Sustainability
T
he push for sustainability Instead of standard methanol, for in- Highly Diversified: the Product
is about more than just stance, the biomethanol used in this Range
good intentions these days product has been obtained exclusively
– it’s part of our company’s strat- from renewable raw materials such as Sustainably manufactured BELSIL®
egy and a component of our over- straw, grasses, sugar beets or other eco is available as a silicone for use
all corporate responsibility. In light plant residues. TÜV continuously in make-up, skin care, hair care and
of ambitious climate goals, dwin- monitors this manufacturing process hairstyling products. Find the
dling fossil-based resources and and the use of biobased raw materials. right BELSIL® eco product below:
a growing global population, man- BELSIL® eco: DM 0.65, DM 5, DM 10,
ufacturing processes that minimize Easy to Use – Identical Results DM 20, DM 50, DM 100, DM 350,
environmental impact are increas- DM 1000, DM 60.000, GB 1020 and
ingly becoming a deciding factor You can use BELSIL® eco without TMS 803.
on the market. BELSIL® eco is making any changes to your formula-
a powerful response to these devel- tion or production process. As a true Visit us at in-cosmetics Global 2020,
opments. drop-in solution, BELSIL® eco can Barcelona, booth S 60!
simply be used in place of classic BEL-
Inspected and certified SIL® – neither the product formulation
nor its performance has changed.
The creation of BELSIL® eco was Even though it is made with renewa-
motivated by a powerful drive for bles, BELSIL® eco is chemically iden-
raw materials that preserve our nat- tical to its classic counterpart, offering Wacker Chemie AG
ural resources. To that end, BELSIL® you an efficient, verifiable option for Hanns-Seidel-Platz 4
eco has been certified by Germany’s more environmentally friendly pro- 81737 Munich, Germany
TÜV technical inspectorate accord- duction and for achieving your inter- Email: info@wacker.com
ing to exacting standards. nal sustainability objectives. www.wacker.com/belsileco
www.cossma.com l 29INGREDIENTS
News New
OF T H E
s
Happy Birthday Month
BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG
BEAUTY FORUM | This year BEAUTY
FORUM LEIPZIG celebrates its 10th anni-
versary. From April 25 to 26 attendees will
find a varied program and more than 400
exhibitors and brands from all sectors of
professional skin care. The diverse specialist
and supporting program includes scientific
congresses on the topics of podiatry and
anti-aging, practical workshops, informative
company presentations and treatments as
well as exciting championships and enter-
taining make-up and hair shows in the trade
fair calendar.
www.beauty-fairs.de/leipzig
INFLUENCE ON THE Natural Emulsifier
SKIN MICROBIOME GATTEFOSSÉ | The natural and
PEG-free O/W emulsifier “Emulium
Mellifera MB” bases on the trans-
CLR | Skin microbiota plays a largely
positive, but sometimes detrimental formation and functionalization
role for skin. “CutiBiome CLR” was of natural waxes; a patented
developed to anticipate on the ambiv- technology developed by Gattefossé
alence of members of the skin micro- oleochemists. From beeswax and
biota implied in the loss of skin health, jojoba wax, the wax butter obtained
for instance Cutibacterium acnes. It is by esterification and interesterifi-
said it is fully abolishing the film form- cation brings a unique sensoriality
ing activity and significantly inhibiting and moisturizing properties to this
the growth of C. acnes I-A1. Sebum, emulsifier, so the company. Flexible,
comedones, pustules and pimples are promises to allow the creation of a
reduced dramatically. wide range of textures.
www.clr-berlin.com www.gattefosse.com
photos: BEAUTY FORUM, CLR, Lipoid Cosmetic
NEW EXTRACT
LIPOID KOSMETIK | “Blossom Honey Pro” is an extract based on organic acacia
honey that is refined for cosmetic use. Its composition with more than 200 bioactive
compounds promises to nourish and supply energy to enhance skin cell proliferation
and activity. It should moisturize powerfully through increased water attraction and
storage. It enhances skin volume and plumps it by generating osmotic pressure, says
the company.
www.lipoid-kosmetik.com
30 l COSSMA 4 I 2020 www.cossma.comINGREDIENTS
News
INNOVATION AWARD
INOLEX | The company received the Innovation Award for its “AminoSensyl Amino Lipid
Platform” during the Home and Personal Care Ingredients (HPCI) Exhibition and Conference
in Mumbai, India. The “HPCI Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards” recognize outstanding
innovations from the cosmetics amongst others. Launched in 2019, the portfolio includes
“AminoSensyl HC” for hair care, and “AminoSensyl SC” for skincare.
www.inolex.com
ADVERTISEMENT
Knowledge is power.
Information is liberating.
Education is the premise of progress.
Today’s consumers are looking for honest claims and
traceable ingredients. Univar Solutions selection of
ingredients featured in Clean by Design includes the
best innovations to help create an enjoyable texture
while having a low impact on the environment.
Sustainable solutions for
Come and experience our newest concept at proof toothpaste
in-cosmetics Global 2020 on booth AH 70!
OMYA | “Omyacare S 75-KP” and “Omya-
care S 95-KP” minerals now are approved
by Ecocert organization for natural raw
materials. The certificate confirms that both
ingredients are natural, environmentally
friendly and sustainable. Omyacare particles
sourced from natural calcium carbonate can
be used as cleansing agents with different
grades of abrasiveness that adjust the colour,
viscosity and texture of toothpaste and rinse
off applications, says the company.
www.omya.com
INSTANTLY ILLUMINATED SKIN
GIVAUDAN | The company developed “Skin Care Highlighter”, a trans-
forming gel dedicated for the cheekbones. This microbiomefriendly skin
photos: Inolex, Omya, Givaudan
perfecter highly concentrated in active ingredients to instantly illuminates
the skin for a natural look, says the company. The “Skin Care Highlighter”
Infused by six active ingredients: upcycled vetiver roots, Vetivyne Flash-
white Unispheres, Brightenyl, Yogurtene Balance, Unitamuron H-22,
Cristalhyal.
www.givaudan.com
www.cossma.com l 31You can also read
