Dermosoft decalact Range Line of multipurpose active - Evonik Dr. Straetmans
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dermosoft® decalact Range
Line of multipurpose active
Evonik Dr. Straetmans
1
Agenda
Background of the dermosoft® decalact Range
History, Skin Microbiome, Traditionally used ingredients, Research
Composition and Mode of action
dermosoft® decalact MB
dermosoft® decalact liquid MB
dermosoft® decalact deo MB
dermosoft® decalact sebum MB
Summary
2 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
dermosoft® decalact
Range
Background
History
Skin Microbiome
Traditionally used
ingredients
Research
3 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
Selection of alternative preservatives
Multifunctionality of the dermosoft® line
Our
Wetting agent dermosoft®
decalact
pH regulating Masking Range offers
even more….
dermosoft®
Refatting Viscosity
regulating
Antimicrobial
properties
4 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
Let´s talk about
dermosoft®
decalact Range
Line of four
multipurpose active
ingredients
Selected antimicrobial
efficacy
Natural compliant
actives
Highly effective
against different skin
disorders
5 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
The history behind the dermosoft® decalact Range
Since 1993 2012
Antimicrobial efficacy of Innovation prize at the in-
middle chain acyl cosmetics for
lactylates dermosoft® decalact MB
2003 2017
Selected antimicrobial dermosoft® decalact
efficacy against special sebum MB
germs
6 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
Skin Microbiome
Identify
critical
bacteria and • The number of germs on human
found a beings has been estimated at
selective around 1012
solution • Most of them are harmless and help
to keep the skin in healthy balance
(commensal bacteria)
• Some of them might become
harmful and can cause skin
disorders
7 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
From tip to toe
Meet the needs
Malassezia furfur (yeast fungus)
causing dandruff
Feeds from longchain fatty acids
Propionibacterium acnes (gram-positive bacteria)
causing acne phenomena
Diverse nutrients, sebum at hair follicles/ skin pores
Corynebacterium xerosis (gram-positive bacteria)
causing skin malodor
Finds optimal milieu in arm pits
Candida albicans (yeast fungus)
causing candidosis
Mainly found on human mucous membranes
Trichophyton spp. (filamentos fungi)
causing athlete´s foot
Break down of corneal layer by enzymatic processes
8 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
Face the facts
Commonly used traditional systems
Triclosan
Limited to 0.3 % respectively in foot care or deodorants (Annex V to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, entry 25)
Climbazole
As anti-dandruff ingredient in shampoo with a concentration of max. 2.0%
Combination of 3-4 products cannot be considered as safe under the current dosage regulations
Zinc Pyrithione
Can be applied as anti-dandruff ingredient in shampoo with a concentration of max. 2.0%
Selen disulfide
Retail products with warning on the label: „contains selen disulfide. Avoid contact with eyes and irritated skin“!
Pircotone Olamine
Best Performances at pH 6 – 7 We need active ingredients with selected antimicrobial
efficacy that can help to inhibit uncontrolled growth of
undesired germs.
9 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
What is the problem
…with triclosan?
Since 30th July 2015 the selling of leave-on products containing triclosan as preservative is prohibited in the
EU.
Cosmetic application such as oral care, foot care or deodorants (areas where the activity of microorganisms
can cause skin disorders and smell) are exempted.
But: maximum concentration is limited to
0.3 % respectively 0.2% in mouthwashes
Annex V to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, entry 25
10 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHWhat is the problem
…with climbazole?
Currently, Climbazole is listed in Annex V, cosmetics regulation, as preservative with a dosage limitation of
0.5%.
It can also be applied as anti-dandruff ingredient in shampoo with a concentration of max. 2.0%
But: The Scientific Committee of Consumer Safety (SCCS) extended their opinion on the use of Climbazole in
cosmetics. The conclusion:
most combinations of 2 products with Climbazole at the same time can be considered as safe
the combination of 3-4 products cannot be considered as safe under the current dosage regulations.
the SCCS considers the following maximum dosage as safe: 2% Climbazole as anti-dandruff agent in rinse-
off shampoos and 0.2% as cosmetic preservative in leave-on formulations, except cosmetic products that
are applied on the full body area, such as body lotions.
11 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHSearching for a natural and effective alternative
Step 1
Determination of MIC (Minimum Inhibitory
Concentration)
Is the lowest concentration of an
antimicrobial that inhibits the growth of a
microorganism on an agar plate
Important to confirm the activity of an
antimicrobial agent against specific
microorganism
First indicator of the activity of an
antimicrobial
12 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHSearching for a natural and effective alternative
Step 1 MIC values of specific fatty acid lactylates in 10% distilled water (Agar
dilution method)
Determination of MIC (Minimum Inhibitory 1
Concentration) 0,9
0,8
0,7
A specific combination of fatty acid lactylates
MIC value in %
0,6
with a chain lenght of C10 and C12 0,5
(dermosoft® decalact MB) is highly efficient 0,4
to fight the selected molds and yeasts 0,3
0,2
0,1
0
C8/C10 C10 C10/12 C12 C8-16 (coco)
Malassezia furfur Corynebacterium xeriosis Trichophyton mentagrophytes
13 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHSearching for a natural and effective alternative
Step 2
In-vitro In-vivo
In vitro & in vivo proven efficacy reduction of reduction of
Malassezia furfur dandruff scales
Proven efficacy for foot care, anti-dandruff
In-vitro
products, blemished skin and intimate reduction of dermosoft® In-vivo
hygiene Trichophyton decalact reduction of
menta- corneocytes
grophythes MB
In-vitro In-vitro
reduction of reduction of
Propioni- Candida albicans
bacterium acnes
14 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHComposition &
Mode of Action
15 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHManufacturing of dermosoft® decalact MB
Beet, sugar cane, Palm kernel oil/
cassava coconut oil
Alkaline saponification
Glycose syrup Fatty acids
Fermentation Distillation
Mixture of Capric-
Lactic acid +
and Lauric acid
Esterification,
subsequent neutralization
dermosoft® decalact MB
16 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHComposition of the dermosoft® decalact Range
dermosoft® decalact Powerful
liquid MB and natural
+ Triethyl citrate ingredients
dermosoft® decalact MB
Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate
dermosoft® decalact sebum
dermosoft® decalact deo
MB
MB
+ Fruit extracts
+ Triethyl citrate
+Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
+ Sage oil
17 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact Range
Mode of action
dermosoft® decalact MB
INCI: Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl
Lactylate
Hydrophilic part
Lipophilic part
18 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact Range Mode of action Due to the amphiphilic structure dermosoft® decalact MB can be integrated into the plasma membrane This leads to a structural change of the lamellar liquid crystall structure Modification of the permeability of the cell membrane The cell membrane looses its barrier function Compounds of the cytosol can diffuse through the membrane 19 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
Antimicrobial activity of wetting agents
What happens if a plasma membrane is exposed to a wetting agent?
Wetting agents with
the help of their
amphiphilic structure
can be integrated into
the plasma
membrane. This leads
to a structural change
of the lamellar liquid
crystall structure …
Source: Blausen.com staff. "Blausen gallery 2014". Wikiversity Journal of Medicine. DOI:10.15347/wjm/2014.010. ISSN 20018762.
20 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHAntimicrobial activity of wetting agents
What happens if a plasma membrane is exposed to a wetting agent?
This structural change
results in a
modification of the
permeability of the cell
membrane…
Source: Blausen.com staff. "Blausen gallery 2014". Wikiversity Journal of Medicine. DOI:10.15347/wjm/2014.010. ISSN 20018762.
21 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHAntimicrobial activity of wetting agents
What happens if a plasma membrane is exposed to a wetting agent?
Compounds of the
cytosol can diffuse
through the membrane
outside the cell …
The cell membrane looses its barrier function
Source: Blausen.com staff. "Blausen gallery 2014". Wikiversity Journal of Medicine. DOI:10.15347/wjm/2014.010. ISSN 20018762.
22 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHAntimicrobial activity of wetting agents
What happens if a plasma membrane is exposed to a wetting agent?
…. and foreign
molecules can diffuse
through the membrane
into the cell …
The cell membrane looses its barrier function
Source: Blausen.com staff. "Blausen gallery 2014". Wikiversity Journal of Medicine. DOI:10.15347/wjm/2014.010. ISSN 20018762.
23 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHAntimicrobial activity of wetting agents
Synergism of wetting agents and other antimicrobial actives
Not only lipophilic acid
can penetrate into the
cell…
…but also the
hydrophylic salt…
… which speeds up
the process of energy-
depletion.
Source: Blausen.com staff. "Blausen gallery 2014". Wikiversity Journal of Medicine. DOI:10.15347/wjm/2014.010. ISSN 20018762.
24 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact Range
Natural antimicrobial efficacy against various skin disorders
Oily and
Deo
blemish skin
Anti
Anti- dermosoft® decalact
Athlete´s
dandruff Range foot
Female hygiene
25 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHThe Products 26 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
dermosoft® decalact MB
Natural replacement for triclosan and
climbazole
Multipurpose active ingredient
Anti-Dandruff, Athlete´s foot
In vivo proven efficacy
ECOCERT/ COSMOS approved
INCI: Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate
27dermosoft® decalact MB
The natural replacement for triclosan and climbazole
Characteristics of dermosoft® decalact MB
Appearance At 25° C viscous amber liquid
characteristic odour
INCI Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate
Recommended dosage
rinse off 0.5 – 2.0%
leave on 0.5 – 1.0%
pH - range of application 4.0 – 6.5
pH - optimum of activity 4.5 – 5.5
Regulatory Status Registered in EU, US, Japan, Korea.
GMO-status non-GMO
Application Emulsions and rinse-off products
Efficacy spectrum G+ G- Y M
very good sufficient insufficient
Natural compliant YES
28 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHProof of Performance 29
dermosoft® decalact MB
Performance vs. Dandruff
Malassezia furfur is responsible for development of dandruff
Target of anti-dandruff products:
Removal of loose corneocytes
Sebum control
Control of Malassezia furfur
Chemical actives used against dandruff: While the optimum
Zn-Pyrithione limited solubility, no transparent shampoos pH for scalp and
hair is at ~5.5,
Selenium disulfide discoloration Piroctone Olamine
needs a pH of 7 to
Piroctone Olamine petrochemical origin, light sensitive achieve its best
performance!
30 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact MB
In vitro Performance vs. Dandruff
In vitro reduction of Malassezia furfur in shampoo
A: Shampoo formulation pH 4.3
B
B: Shampoo formulation pH 5.3
A
1000000
Plate count [cfu/ml]
100000
10000 2% dermosoft® decalact MB pH 4.3
1000 0.75% Octopirox pH 4.3
100 Placebo pH 4.3
10
1
2% dermosoft® decalact MB pH 5.3
0
30 0.75% Octopirox pH 5.3
60
120
Time [min] 240 Placebo pH 5.3
360
dermosoft® decalact MB is comparable to Piroctone Olamine at pH 5.3 (B) and has a superior performance at
pH 4.3 (A) which is the more suitable pH for shampoo formulations
31 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact MB
In vivo Performance vs. Dandruff
Evaluation of anti-dandruff efficacy of a shampoo formulation with dermosoft® decalact MB in comparison to a benchmark
shampoo with Piroctone Olamine and a placebo formulation
Panel size: 3 groups each of 20 volunteers
Using Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Placebo (pH 5.3)
Using Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with 2% dermosoft® decalact MB pH (pH 5.3)
Using Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with 0.75% Piroctone Olamine pH (pH 5.3)
Application: three times a week for 4 weeks
Checks: baseline (t0) and after 4 weeks (t4) of treatment
Reduction of dandruff scales by weight
Number of corneocytes > 0.5 mm² adhering to a D-Squame disc
32 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact MB
In vivo Performance vs. Dandruff
Reduction of dandruff scales by weight after 4 weeks (t4) ** p ≤ 0.01 highly significant
10%
0%
Average reduction in %
-10% -6.0%
-20%
-24.6%** -24.3%**
-30%
-40%
-50%
Placebo 2.0 % dermosoft® decalact MB 0.75 % Piroctone Olamine
dermosoft® decalact MB and Piroctone Olamine significantly reduce the weight of dandruff scales after 4 week
treatments
33 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHNumber of corneocytes measured with a D-Squame disc
D-Squame is a transparent adhesive disc directly applied on the scalp and corneocytes
remained attached
The disk was then pressed onto the black control card
Quantity of corneocytes larger than 0.5 mm2 adhering to the D-Squame disc was calculated
Increasing scaliness level
34 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact MB
In vivo performance vs. Dandruff
Number of corneocytes after 4 weeks (t4) > 0.5 mm² adhering to a D-Squame disc
10%
*** p ≤ 0.001 highest significant
0%
-2.1%
-10%
Average reduction in %
-20%
-30%
-40% -36.2%*
-40.0%***
-50%
Placebo 2.0 % dermosoft® decalact MB 0.75 % Piroctone olamine
dermosoft® decalact MB significantly reduces the number of corneocytes after 4 weeks of treatment
35 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact MB
In vitro performance vs. Athlete´s foot
In vitro test against Trichophyton mentagrophytes in foot cream (pH 5.4)
1000000 dermosoft® decalact MB 1.0%
dermosoft® decalact MB 0.6%
100000 Triclosan 0.3%
Climbazol 0.4%
Plate count [cfu/ml]
10000 Placebo
1000
100
10
1
0 6 12 18 24 30 36 42 48 54
Time [h] 60 66 72
dermosoft® decalact MB shows best performance against Trichophyton mentagrophytes
36 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact MB
In vitro performance vs. Blemished Skin
In vitro test against Propionibacterium acnes in face cream (pH 4.45)
The use of
salicylic acid is
10000000 restricted at 0.5%
1000000
100000
0.5% dermosoft® decalact MB
Plate count (cfu/g)
10000 0.3% Triclosan
1000 0.5% Salicylic Acid
Vehicle control
100
10
1
Inoculum
0 min
60 min
Time (min) 120 min
360 min
dermosoft® decalact MB effectively reduces Propionibacterium acnes. Activity comparable to commonly used
active ingredients.
37 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact MB - Prove the facts: Multifunctional Performance
Foam stability of 1% surfactant in water
20
18
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
Start 1 min 2 min 5 min
1,0% SLES 1% dermosoft® decalact MB 0,5%SLES + 0,5% dermosoft® decalact MB
Only dermosoft® decalact MB improves the foam stability in surfactant based formulations
38 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact liquid MB
Low viscous active blend containing
triethyl citrate
Boosted efficiency
Easy-to-handle
Anti-Dandruff, Athlete´s foot, Female
hygiene
ECOCERT/ COSMOS approved
INCI: Sodium Caproyl/
Lauroyl Lactylate; Triethylcitrate
39dermosoft® decalact liquid MB
The low viscous blend
Characteristics of dermosoft® decalact liquid MB
Appearance Clear, yellowish to brownish liquid
INCI Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate; Triethylcitrate
Recommended dosage 0.7 – 1.2%
pH - range of application 4.0 – 6.5
pH - optimum of activity 4.5 – 5.5
Regulatory Status Registered in EU, US, Japan, Korea.
GMO-status non-GMO
Application Emulsions and rinse-off products
Efficacy spectrum G+ G- Y M
very good sufficient insufficient
Natural compliant YES
40 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact MB and Triethyl Citrate - a smart combination Triethyl citrate known to inhibit the esterase activity of bacteria Triethyl citrate resolves into ethanol and citric acid, when hydrolyzed by enzymatic process Development of dermosoft® decalact liquid MB Citric acid lowers pH and inhibits further pH-dependent enzyme activity favors the activity of dermosoft® decalact MB which has its optimal efficacy at pH 4 – 5.5 41 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
dermosoft® decalact liquid MB
In vitro performance in Female Hygiene
In vitro challenge test against Candida albicans in surfactant base
800000
Surfactant base with 2% dermosoft®
700000 decalact
600000 Surfactant base with 0.4% Climbazol
Plate count (cfu/g)
500000
Surfactant base Placebo
400000
300000
200000
100000
0
Inoculum
0
0.5
Time (h) 3
12
24
dermosoft® decalact MB effectively reduces Candida albicans
42 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHThe composition of dermosoft® decalact liquid MB
Sodium Known antimicrobial efficacy of
Caproyl/ dermosoft® decalact MB
Lauroyl
Lactylate
dermosoft® decalact liquid MB
dermosoft® TEC eco for better
Triethyl
handling and even boosted activity
Citrate
43 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact deo MB
Strong deodorant effect
Efficient reduction of
Corynebacterium xerosis
In-vivo proven 24-hours efficacy
Low use concentration - cost
effective
ECOCERT/ COSMOS approved
INCI: Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate;
Triethylcitrate; Salvia Officinalis (Sage)
Oil
44dermosoft® decalact deo MB
The low viscous deodorant blend
Characteristics of dermosoft® decalact deo MB
Appearance Yellowish to brownish liquid
INCI Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate; Triethyl Citrate; Salvia Officinalis
(Sage) Oil
Recommended dosage 0.3 – 1.0%
pH - range of application 4.0 – 6.5
pH - optimum of activity < 5.0
Regulatory Status Registered in EU, US, Japan, Korea.
GMO-status non-GMO
Application Emulsions and rinse-off products
Efficacy spectrum G+ G- Y M
very good sufficient insufficient
Natural compliant YES
45 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact deo MB
Mode of action
dermofeel® TEC eco
1 • Triethyl Citrate
• Inhibits esterase activity of
bacteria
Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil
2 • Astringent
• Anti-inflammation
Salvia Officinalis dermosoft® decalact MB
(Sage) Oil • Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl
3
Lactylate
• Physically acting
antimicrobial
46 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHClaiming Trends: „Free from…“ … Aluminium
Most common metal of the earth‘s crust (not in pure form)
In food and articles of daily use
Cosmetics contribute to aluminium intake
> 25 aluminium compounds used in the cosmetic industry
Most widely used:
Aluminium Chlorohydrate (ACH)
antiperspirant active
(antitranspirant)
Side note on terminology:
Deodorant: prevents body odour (by fighting
microorganisms)
Antiperspirants: prevents sweating (by blocking sweat
glands)
47 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHClaiming Trends: „Free from…“ … Aluminium The critics Suspected to cause or support diseases like cancer, Alzheimer‘s No scientifically verified evidence available The current situation High media attention Growing consumer awareness What is not known? Proportion dermal vs. oral intake Bioavailability of compounds Tolerable intake and consequences 48 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
Proof of
performance
49dermosoft® decalact deo MB
In vitro deodorant Performance
In vitro reduction of Corynebacterium xerosis
1000000
100000
plate count [cfu/ml]
10000
1000
100
10
Placebo
1 Triclosan 0,3%
0 Ethylhexylglycerin 0,5%
2
4 decalact 0,3%
time [hours]
6
dermosoft® decalact deo MB reduces Corynebacterium xerosis as good as Triclosan and Ethylhexylglycerin
50 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact deo MB
In vivo performance - Sniff test
Comparative assessment of deodorant efficacy of a deo roll on formulation with dermosoft®
decalact deo MB in comparison to a benchmark deo roll on formulation with 0.5%
ethylhexylglycerin
Study design: Randomized half side test
Panel size: 20 volunteers
Application: daily for one week
Checks: Olfactomeric expert grading of odor intensity
- initial value (t0), 6 h (t1) and 24 h (t2) after first application
- 6 h (t3) and 24 h (t4) after last application
51 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact deo MB
Sniff test after first application
1= not detectable
2= low ** p ≤ 0.01 highly significant
4 3= detectable *** p ≤ 0.001 highest significant
4= strong
5= extremly strong
***
3
Intensity of sweat odour
**
***
2
1
0
initial value (t0) after 6 hours (t1) after 24 hours (t2)
deo roll on with 0.5% dermosoft® decalact deo MB deo roll on with 0.5% ethylhexylglycerin (Benchmark)
The effect of dermosoft® decalact deo MB after 24 hours is superior (significant) compared to Ethylhexylglycerin
(not significant) proven in this controlled sniff-test
52 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact deo MB
Sniff test after 1 week application
4
1= not detectable ** p ≤ 0.01 highly significant
2= low *** p ≤ 0.001 highest significant
3= detectable
4= strong
5= extremly strong **
3
Intensity of sweat odour
*** ***
2
1
0
initial value (t0) after 6 hours (t3) after 24 hours (t4)
deo roll on with 0.5% dermosoft® decalact deo MB deo roll on with 0.5% ethylhexylglycerin (Benchmark)
The 24 h effect of dermosoft® decalact deo MB after a week is significant while Ethylhexylglycerin has failed to
achieve this quality
53 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact deo MB
Sniff test - Odor reduction
1,8
Reduction of odor intensity= odor
after – odor before application
Reduction of odor intensity in comparison to t(0)
1,6
1,4
1,2
1
0,8
0,6
0,4
0,2
0
deo roll on with 0.5% dermosoft® decalact deo MB deo roll on with 0.5% ethylhexlglycerine
6 hours (t1) 24 hours (t2) 6 hours (t3) 24 hours (t4)
dermosoft® decalact deo MB shows the best results in reducing sweat odor
54 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft®
decalact sebum MB
Natural multitalented active ingredient
blend
Tackles the signs of skin imperfections
Acts against several factors simultaneously
In-vivo proven activity
Mild to the skin
COSMOS approved
INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate; Sodium
Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate; Glycerin; Serenoa
Serrulata Fruit Extract; Juniperus Communis Fruit
Extract
55dermosoft® decalact sebum MB
The low viscous blend
Characteristics of dermosoft® decalact sebum
Appearance Clear, amber liquid
INCI Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate; Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate; Glycerin,
Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract; Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract
Recommended dosage 2.0 %
pH - range of application 4.0 – 6.5
pH - optimum of activity < 5.0
Regulatory Status Registered in EU, US, Japan, Korea.
GMO-status non-GMO
Application Emulsions and rinse-off products
Efficacy spectrum G+ G- Y M
very good sufficient insufficient
Natural compliant YES
56 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHCauses for blemish-prone skin
Infected, inflamed skin, Blemished skin
redness and spots
Sebum overproduction
Infection with bacteria,
e.g. Propionibacterium acnes
Dilation of skin pores
Clogging of pores and formation
of comedones
Accumulation of oil and dead skin cells
57 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHThe composition of dermosoft® decalact sebum MB
INCI Name Common name Function
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate dermofeel® G 10 L Mild cleansing
Sodium Caproyl/ dermosoft® decalact MB Antimicrobial
Lauroyl Lactylate
Glycerin Moisturizing
Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Saw Palmetto Fruit Extract Antiseborrheic,
Extract skin conditioning
Juniperus Communis Fruit Juniper Fruit Extract Antimicrobial, antioxidant,
Extract anti-inflammatory
Ingredient selection based on:
scientific literature review, in-vitro and in-vivo in-house screening and cosmetic formulation know-how.
58 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHProof of
performance
59 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact sebum MB
In-vivo reduction of sebum production
t0 28 days
Visioscan®/Sebufix® technique
Vehicle control Improvement
over vehicle
28%***
dermosoft®
decalact sebum
Total decrease 62%***
*** p≤ 0,001 highest significance
dermosoft® decalact sebum MB significantly reduced the sebum production - skin becomes less greasy and less
shiny
60 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact sebum MB
In-vivo reduction of visible skin pores
VISIA® technique
t0 dermosoft® 28 days dermosoft®
decalact sebum decalact sebum
Reduction of
visible dilated
pores
Reduction in total:
17%***
Improvement
over vehicle Panelist No.23
control: 8%**
** p≤ 0,01 highly significant
*** p≤ 0,001 highest significance
dermosoft® decalact sebum MB significantly reduced the number of dilated pores - skin becomes smoother and
more even
61 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact sebum MB
In-vivo reduction of comedones
VISIA® technique
t0 dermosoft® 28 days dermosoft®
decalact sebum decalact sebum
Clearly visible
reduction of
comedone-, and
pimple-formation
after 28 days.
Panelist No.11
dermosoft® decalact sebum MB is effective against skin imperfections such as comedones
62 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact sebum MB
In-vivo reduction of bacterial growth
VISIA® technique t0 dermosoft® decalact sebum 28 days dermosoft® decalact sebum
UV-visible
accumulation of
porphyrines
Reduction in total:
20%*
Improvement Panelist No.6
over vehicle Propionibacterium acnes
control: 9%* • Lives on fatty acids secreted by sebaceous glands
• Form metabolic intermediates:
porphyrines indicator for bacterial growth
* p≤ 0,05 significant
*** p≤ 0,001 highest significance
dermosoft® decalact sebum MB significantly reduced the bacterial infection inside the pores
63 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact sebum MB
In-vivo reduction of skin redness
t0 dermosoft® decalact sebum 28 days dermosoft® decalact sebum
VISIA® technique
Reduction of
skin redness
Reduction in
total: 23%***
Improvement
over vehicle
control: 12%***
Panelist No.21
Inflammations are caused by oxidative stress and the growth of bacteria
via the production and release of pro-inflammatory cytokines.
*** p≤ 0,001 highest significance
dermosoft® decalact sebum significantly reduced the redness of the skin, as it prevents skin inflammation
64 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact sebum MB
No negative effects on skin hydration
Corneometer® technique Values for the cheek
70
High transepidermal water loss
60
causes low moisture levels in the
SC-Hydratation [CE]
skin and can lead to rough pimples. 50
Even oily skin needs moisture!
40
30
20
10
0
t0 t2
dermosoft® decalact sebum Vehicle
dermosoft® decalact sebum MB does not negatively affect the TEWL – skin moisture remains the same
65 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHdermosoft® decalact sebum MB
In-vivo proven efficacy
dermosoft®
decalact sebum MB 28%***
Dosage: 2% Sebum
vs. hydrogel formulation production
12%*** 8%**
Skin Visible skin
redness dermosoft® pores
decalact sebum
MB
* p≤ 0,05 significant +plus: no negative effects
9%*
** p≤ 0,01 highly significant
*** p≤ 0,001 highest significance
11%* on the TEWL
Bacterial
Reduction compared to hydrogel formulation Comedones
without active ingredient (vehicle control) growth
66 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHSummary 67 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
Line of multipurpose active ingredients - dermosoft® decalact range
INCI Dosage Optimum Selected animicrobial Application
efficacy at pH efficacy against
dermosoft® Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl 0.5 – 2.0 % 4.0 – 5.5 Malassezia furfur, Trichophyton Anti-Dandruff, Foot Care
decalact MB Lactylate spp., Epidermophyton
floccosum
dermosoft® Sodium Caproyl/ 0.7 – 1.2 % 4.0 – 5.5 Malassezia furfur, Anti-Dandruff, Foot Care,
decalact liquid MB Lauroyl Lactylate; Triethyl Trichophyton spp., Intimate Hygiene
Citrate Epidermophyton floccosum,
Candida albicans
dermosoft® Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl 0.3 – 1.0 %dermosoft® decalact dermosoft® decalact deo
liquid MB for: MB for:
- Female hygiene - Deodorants
dermosoft® decalact MB for:
(Triethyl Citrate – for more (Sage Oil – for optimized
convenience and boosted deodorant efficacy & Triethyl
antimicrobial efficacy) Citrate – for easy handling and
- Anti-dandruff additional deodorant activity)
- Anti Athlete’s foot 0.7 – 1.2% 0.3 – 1 %
(Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate - for selected dermosoft® decalact sebum MB Selected composition
of powerful and
for:
antimicrobial activity) natural ingredients
- Oily and blemished prone skin tailor-made
solutions for different
(Fruit Extracts – for sebum regulation, boosted undesired skin
0.5 – 2 % antimicrobial efficacy and reduction of skin disorders.
redness & Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate – known
from our dermofeel® G 10 L as a mild surfactant)
2%
69 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbHThe dermosoft® decalact Range
Multifunctionality
Selected
antimicrobial
activtiy
Natural actives
In vitro and in
vivo proven
efficacy
70 | Public | April 2019 | dermosoft® decalact range | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH71
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