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EE
FR
Desert
storm
87
MCI (P) 020/05/2019
ISSUE JAPAN | OMAN | MONGOLIA
May-Jun NEW ZEALAND MORE
2 0 1 9
CONTENTS M AY - J U N E I S S U E
In the city, to 22
be alone, you
GOLDEN GOBI
go into your Asia’s largest
desert awaits the
apartment. adventurous
Here in the
Gobi, you
simply go
outside.
Photo: Patrick Schneider
A HIGHER LEVEL OF LUXURY IN PHUKET With striking, contemporary design, innovative seaside dining and an unwavering dedication to faultless service, The Nai Harn is taking luxury to new heights. Reinvigorate your senses and revel in this romantic sanctuary by the sea. The Nai Harn Phuket 23/3 Moo 1, Vises Road, Rawai Muang District, Phuket, 83130 Thailand T +66 7638 0200 www.thenaiharn.com
FEATURES
17 28 32
STARRY STARRY NIGHT ARABIAN DESTINATION
Discover New Zealand’s SANCTUARY RAILWAY
spellbinding caverns Spot this alluring Where the journey
oasis in Oman is the destination
18 34
NATURE’S FIERY FURY
Get blown away by the EXPLORING: TOKYO
volcanoes of the world Uncover the Japanese
capital’s wonders
REGULARS
06
HOTELS
14
SHORT BREAKS
30
TRAVEL NEWS
10
EVENTS
29
TRAVEL TIPS
40
DISTRIBUTION
12
GEAR GUIDE
42
SNAPSHOT
SPORTS+
36
Q&A: TIONG JIA EN
37 38 39
CALLISTHENICS ROCK CLIMBING 4X4 SAND BASHING
Hotels
The Living Sands
Photo: Amangiri
Here are some hotels offering the most exquisite desert experiences.
p Amangiri t Scarabeo Camp
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA MOROCCO
Breathtaking sceneries of canyons, An exquisite Moroccan glamping
dunes and desert serve as a sensational experience is the hotel’s specialty. Unique
backdrop for this impressive luxury resort. African woven matting, local Berber rugs
Geometrically constructed to perfection, and mellow-hued interiors recreate an
and embellished with a soft brown colour authentically Moroccan ambience as
Photo: Scarabeo Camp
scheme, this resort complex blends you tuck into delicious traditional cuisine
beautifully and impeccably with the around a cosy communal table. Whether
striking rocky surroundings. Relax in style you choose to explore the scenic
and comfort, in Amangiri’s plush suites, surroundings by bike, buggy, camel or on
after a day out exploring the encircling foot, Scarabeo’s experienced guides make
geological wonders. sure you are in good hands.
› www.aman.com › www.scarabeocamp.com
t Hotel Aire de Bardenas u
SPAIN
This cosy avant-garde accommodation
fashioned in the vicinity of the Natural
Park, is internationally acclaimed for their
Photos: Hotel Aire de Bardenas
novel creative concepts, having racked up
at least twenty six awards for Architecture
and Design. Chief amongst those, are the
photogenic, blissful, brilliantly-conceived
Bubble Rooms - standalone see-through
spherical residences, that are judiciously
positioned within the Bardenas desert
landscape, in a manner vividly reminiscent
of a sci-fi flick.
› www.airebardenas.com
6
t Desert Nights Camp
OMAN
39 gorgeous Bedouin-style tents make
up this sprawling accommodation,
Photo: Desert Nights Camp
plumped right in the thick of the Omani
desert, two hours away from Muscat.
Embrace the rich sands of the Wahiba,
as you explore the nearby picturesque
dunes and wadis. Be mesmerised by
the illusive, exotic atmosphere, under
the gleaming Omani moonlight, as the
campfire burns on.
› www.omanhotels.com
Nara Desert Escape Winds Desert Camp
UAE INDIA
Enter the comfort of individuality Atop the popular Sam Sand Dunes sits
with lovingly curated bespoke desert the charming Winds Desert Camp,
Photo:Three Camel Lodge
experiences. Upon the powdery bringing you a slice of authentic desert
sands of the Arabian desert are its life and a fresh take on your regular
luxurious nomadic tents, the Apache holiday experience. Go back to the
and Touareg, tastefully furnished for basics with the quaint Indian-style Swiss
a cosy home away from home. An tents boasting tasteful Bohemian decor
array of thrills await, from quad- and an outdoor verandah. Relish the
biking to sandboarding, for a action- desert’s vast serenity on camelback
packed day. At night, indulge your - a refreshing escape for weary city-
palate with authentic gastronomic dwellers.
delights by the in-house chef while Three Camel Lodge p › www.windsdesertcamp.com
enjoying the sweeping calm of the MONGOLIA
sands beyond. An eco sanctuary in the heart of the
› www.nara.ae Gobi Desert, the renowned Three
Camel Lodge offers a luxurious twist to
Photo: Winds Desert Camp
traditional Mongolian nomadic living.
Photo: Nara Desert Escape
Each of their 50 lavish tented gers
epitomises extravagant comfort with a
spacious wooden-latticed interior and
spa-like bathroom amenities. Moreover,
with a complete digital disconnect,
Three Camel Lodge provides a true
rustic getaway like no other.
› www.threecamellodge.com
Little Kulala u
NAMIBIA
The rolling Sossusvlei dunes of Namib
Desert is a serenely stunning setting for
the secluded Little Kulala Desert Lodge.
Each thatched ‘kulala’ (with a private
plunge pool) embodies a desert-chic
style of pastel shades, organic fabrics
and textures, effortlessly mirroring the
Photo: Little Kulala
sandy landscape. Little Kulala offers
activities galore, from quad biking and
sunrise balloon safaris to sleeping under
the stars in your very own rooftop
skybed atop the villa!
› www.wilderness-safaris.com
7
EDITOR’S
NOTE
OUR TEAM
AN ADVENTURE TO EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Low Mei Fang
REMEMBER CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Orland Punzalan
DIGITAL MEDIA & OPERATIONS
A
s we venture into the second the Beijing Railway Station, the Trans- MANAGER
Adrian Rosario
half of the year, Sports+Travel Mongolian route on the Trans-Siberian WRITING & DIGITAL
takes you for a ride with our Railway takes you towards Moscow in a Cheryl Kho
Sands issue. From a blazing scenic train ride through the continents. Julia Lachica
Livia Taslim
hot expedition to some of Discover the city of Tokyo in a new Phua Jun Han
the world’s most active volcanoes to the light by jogging around this iconic busy
awe-inspiring Gobi Desert, we take you to metropolis. Weave through the bustling
PUBLISHER
experience the scorching places of Mother streets on an urban run - a worldwide
NATIVIS PTE LTD
Earth. social campaign that motivates you to 20 Maxwell Road #08-01Q
To start off, journey into the labyrinth explore the cityscape with a pair of running Maxwell House, Singapore 069113
Tel +65 6909 5290 / +65 6429 0729
that is the Waitomo Caves of New Zealand. shoes.
www.sportsandtravelonline.com
Wander through the maze-like caves and Lastly, try out something new in your enquiry@sportsandtravelonline.com
discover the shafts and underground workout regimes as we introduce you to
SPORTS+TRAVEL LIMITED
rivers that are illuminated by the native the basics of rock climbing, callisthenics,
Rm. 1104 Crawford House
Arachnocampa luminosa, the New Zealand and the extremities to do in Asia’s sand 70 Queen’s Road Central,
glowworm. dunes. Hong Kong
Tel +852 2861 8746
If you seek something much more With that, we hope you stay inspired
enquiry@sportsandtravel.com.hk
heated, maybe visiting active volcanoes and motivated to discover the wonders
may just be your thing! Venture to the of the world and its myriad activities. We’ll
famous Mount Bromo of Indonesia or the be back with more stories to keep you ADVERTISING SALES
snow-capped volcano of Iceland, Hekla. inspired for your next travels. Until then, GENERAL SALES ENQUIRY
sales@sportsandtravelonline.com
We give you a list of volcanoes from stay bold and adventurous!
around the world that might just blow your SG+HK
mind with its beauty and thrill! Eish Sandhu
Hylda Low
Away from the hustle and bustle of the Joshua Ng
city, take a trip to Oman’s Wadi Bani Khalid. Surbhi Tiwari
200km from Muscat, this oasis paradise is Low Mei Fang
Editor
lined with vibrant date palms and earthy
editor@sportsandtravelonline.com CONTRIBUTORS
brown sand with a lagoon that dazzles Tiong Jia En
shades of emerald and turquoise all year
round.
For this issue’s cover story, we bring you
SPECIAL THANKS
Tourism Authority of Thailand
into the congruous topography of the Gobi
Ministry of Tourism, Indonesia
Desert. Beyond its barren and monolithic Mega Water Sports
terrain, Mongolia’s Gobi Desert offers lush Bintan Resorts
TLM Foot-Knee-Back-Arm Orthotics
forests, rocky mountains, frigid glaciers,
Centre
and breathtaking canyons. Check out Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau
Mongolia’s alluring anomaly on page 22! ...and many, many others!
Ever been on a voyage where the
journey is the destination? Starting from DISCLAIMER
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MCI (P) 020/05/2019
ISSUE JAPAN | OMAN | MONGOLIA
May-Jun
2 0 1 9
NEW ZEALAND MORE
and depictions contained herein are the
INSTAGRAM properties of their respective trademark and
Cover: Freestyle sand surfing at copyright owners.
sunset. Photo by Wallenrock. @sportsandtravelsg
Colour separation and printing by Stamford
Press Pte Ltd. Singapore MCI (P) L014/04/2019
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Call 04-955 8181
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EVENTS JULY
SINGAPORE 26-29 2019 Davis Cup Asia Oceania
Group III
Venue: OCBC Arena Hall 1-3
7 OxFitt Run 2019
Venue: Marina Barrage
Category: 21km
Category: Tennis
MAY 20-21 2019 International
30 2019 OCBC Cycle National Road
Championship—Individual Time
Championship Cup
Venue: National Stadium
25 AIA GLOW Festival 2019
Venue: Palawan Green, Sentosa
Trial Category: Football
Venue: Tanah Merah Coast Road
Island
Category: Cycling
Category: Yoga, 5km Run
26 National Vertical Marathon 2019
Venue: Suntec City Tower One
Category: Skyscraper Run
JUNE
1-2 OSIM Sundown Marathon 2019
Venue: F1 Pit Building
Category: 5km, 10km, 10km
Team of 4, 21.1km, 42.195km
15 STGR Uglow Marathon
Venue: Coney Island
Category: 10km, 21km, 42km
REGIONAL
MAY
18 The Great Wall Marathon
Venue: Yin and Yang Square
Category: 8.5km, 21.1km, 8-9 Laguna Phuket Marathon
Venue: Laguna Grove
42.195km Category: 2km, 5km, 10.5km,
Country: Tianjin, China 21.1km, 42.195km
Country: Phuket, Thailand AUGUST
26 The Thunder Dragon Marathon 4 Khmer Empire Marathon
Venue: Udumwara Resort
Category: 21.1km, 42.195km 16 Phnom Penh International Half
Marathon
Venue: Angkor Wat
Category: 3km, 10km, 21km,
Country: Bhutan Venue: In front of Royal Palace 42km
Phnom Penh Country: Siem Reap,
Category: 3km, 10km, 21.1km Cambodia
26 Jeju International Tourism
Marathon
Country: Phnom Penh,
Cambodia
Venue: Gujwa Life Sports Park,
Gimnyeong Beach
11 Manulife Da Nang International
Marathon 2019
Category: 10km, 21km, 42km
Country: Jeju, South Korea
JULY Venue: Da Nang
Category: 10km, 21km, 42km
Country: Da Nang, Vietnam
7 Hulu Langat Marathon 2019
JUNE Venue: Hulu Langat
Category: 42km
SEPTEMBER
Country: Hulu Langat, Malaysia
2 Lanzhou International Marathon
Venue: Gansu International 7-8 International Bintan Marathon
Convention and Exhibit Center
Category: 5km, 21.1km 21 Pattaya Marathon 2019
Category: 3.5km, 10.5km,
Venue: Lagoi Bay
Category: 42.195km, 21km,
42.195km 21km, 42km 3km
Country: Gansu, China Country: Pattaya, Thailand Country: Bintan, Indonesia
10ADVERTORIAL
The Pattaya Marathon 2019
GETTING THERE:
Fly Thai Airways,
Singapore Airlines,
Cathay Pacific, Scoot
or Jetstar from
Singapore Changi
Airport to Bangkok
Suvarnabhumi Airport,
C ome 21st July, Thailand’s charming surroundings. This scenic route is one that will before taking a 2-hour
beachside city will unveil the long-awaited take your breath away, quite literally. bus ride into Pattaya.
Pattaya Marathon to runners from all walks Be prepared for sweltering heat punctuated These buses depart
of life all over the world. Join thousands of with rainy showers characteristic of Pattaya’s every hour from
participants for a most rewarding run on one of fickle climate, which will make for an eventful 5.30am to 10.00pm.
the most beautiful marathon routes through the experience! As the event begins before dawn,
stunning east coasts of Thailand. it affords the surreality of watching the dark sky
Beginning on the golden sands of Central come awash with the first rays of dawn.
Festival Pattaya Beach, you’ll be cutting a path While the entire Pattaya Marathon course
along Pattaya’s shoreline, passing some of her clocks a challenging 42km, the event offers
iconic landmarks including Pattaya City Hall more manageable distances as well including
and Walking Street and crossing the hilly, rocky the 3.5km, 10km and 21km races. As one of
terrains of the great highlands. the most inclusive marathons in Thailand, it
There is nothing quite as refreshing as the welcomes wheelchair users to join in the fun as
rhythm of your pounding feet as you drink well at the 42km wheelchair marathon - a true
in the sights and sounds of novel, unfamiliar celebration of the inclusive spirit of sports.
11GEAR
the
GUIDE
Hi t
Outd oor s
RIMOWA X BANG &
OLUFSEN: BEOPLAY H9i
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signature RIMOWA › The Planet Traveller
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FITBIT- VERSA LITE EDITION
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Stages tracking, 15+ goal-based exercise modes,
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12EAGLE CREEK MIGRATE
WHEELED DUFFEL 110L
Rest easy knowing you’re doing your part for the
environment. Constructed of bluesign® approved material,
the duffle is made out of the water repellent 900D heavy-
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packing needs with its heavy duty construction.
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THE NORTH FACE- SAFIEN
MID GTX®
A max-comfort hiker with a shock-absorbing
midsole, the Safien Mid GTX® uses a new
method of construction to integrate a molded
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upper, providing ultimate protection on the trail.
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OAKLEY® MERCENARY
Rooted in performance and wrapped with a new
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TRIAGE FITNESS- THE PULSER
The Pulser is your ultimate self-massage foam roller.
It is built to deliver maximum powered vibration to
relieve muscle pain, improve overall body mobility and
accelerate muscle recovery. The optimised vibration
gives a pulsating deep tissue massage in the comfort
of your own home. The Pulser is a truly versatile fitness
tool. It can be used for warming up, cooling down,
recovering as well as rehabilitation.
› www.triagefitness.com
› S$159.00
13Short
Breaks
Take a Bintan Explore the
largest island of
Break
Indonesia’s Riau
Archipelago.
By Cheryl Kho
THE REVITALISED BINTAN of today is relishing its
new lease of life. Only an hour’s ferry ride out from
Singapore’s Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal, a fresh
weekend jaunt - a blissful blend of luxurious comfort
and rousing adventure - awaits the weary metropolitan. Aboard the Doulos Phos
From the Bandar Bentan Telani Slated to open in June this year,
Ferry Terminal, the regal form of the Doulos Phos will unveil 104 plushly
Doulos iconic Doulos Phos Ship Hotel is refurbished guest cabins across four
Phos
absolutely striking. decks, each furnished with tasteful
The Having sailed the high seas for decor drawing from different time
Residence close to a century, this legendary periods throughout her rich history.
Bintan
liner held the Guinness World Of these, the swankiest is the
Record of the ‘oldest active ocean- Master Mariner Suite, with a private
going passenger ship’. outdoor jet spa and alfresco
Gurun The private anchor-shaped isle dining under the stars, while the
Pasir on which she is now dry berthed Experience Cabins, on the other
Busung
will play host to a hive of activity: hand, afford a more rugged,
from a pool bar and beach club to adventurous stay in volunteer crew
Tanjung a piano lounge and spa complex. quarters.
Pinang
Photo: Doulos Phos
14Photo: Bintan Resorts
Luxury at The Residence Bintan
Along the eastern shores of the island,
nature meets luxury in The Residence
The Sand Dunes of Gurun Pasir Busung
Bintan, a lavish tropical oasis. Golden
stretches of beach skirt the edges of its
stylish beachfront villas overlooking the Today’s digital natives will narrow
cyan waters of the South China Sea. in on Gurun Pasir Busung, a former
Their warm wooden interiors sand quarry but now an Instagram
epitomize a sophisticated tapestry of hotspot for the picturesque rolling
contemporary style and traditional contours of its sand dunes.
Indonesian aesthetics. Located along the western coast
Indulge in the flavours of the of the island, this is an unexpected
Indonesian Archipelago at its Rica Rica, Sahara-esque desert landscape of
relax with a cocktail at the Pool Bar or mellow beige and brown shades
Photo: Bintan Resorts
revitalise the mind, body and senses at amid Bintan’s tropical surroundings.
The Spa by ila. Photo opportunities at this
Beyond the resort, the great outdoors curious site abound as you navigate
awaits discovery, from exhilarating the curvatures of the sloping terrain
water and beach sports to a kayaking and the banks of the encircling
expedition through thick mangrove. crystal blue lagoon.
Local Culture at Tanjung Pinang
Within the colourful Tanjung Pinang, the early morning
yields the buzz of the bargain at its traditional wet markets
lined with wooden crates of meats and fresh produce.
Explore teeming alleys, where trishaws zig-zag through
rows of shophouses and street vendors showcase
everything from dried seafood to antique ceramics.
At dusk, Rimba Jaya lights up, a sprawling central with
Photo: Bintan Resorts
a diversity of gastronomic exploits from night market grills
to bars and hipster cafes.
Within this maze is Akau Potong Lembu, a makeshift
open-air hawker centre, boasting affordable, authentic
local delights sold out of pushcarts - every foodie’s
wildest dream.
15Ever encountered the
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Our feet is the foundation TLM Foot-Knee-Back-Arm or exercising.
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Starry Starry Night The
Glowworm
Cave
Thousands of magical glowworms,
unique to New Zealand, illuminate
the spellbinding cavern.
By Phua Jun Han
GETTING THERE
The caves are
located on the North
Island, an hour
away from Hamilton,
and approximately
two hours south of
Auckland, by car.
BENEATH THE VERDANT SLOPES of delicately. Reflecting sparkling bluish hues
Waitomo, North Island, lie an intricate off the ceiling, the scene is immensely
network of subterranean wonders. Within captivating. Amidst the radiant darkness,
the labyrinthine maze of shafts and the spectacle is exceedingly enthralling.
Photo: Karora
underground rivers, the Glowworm Grotto Behold the Glowworm Grotto.
twinkles wondrously; in spectacular and The tour boat sails beneath a lucid
awe-inspiring fashion. display of vivacious shimmers.
While the existence of the caves were Arachnocampa luminosa, (or New
known to the local Maoris for years, the Zealand glowworms), dot the overhead
area was generally uncharted until a Maori felicitously titled charming limestone ridges. Bioluminescent, as a result of the
tribal chief extensively traversed the site and formations. The Banquet Chamber, resides luciferase enzyme acting upon luciferin,
stumbled upon the glimmering chamber. in the middle portion. they emanate a cerulean gleam. Scattered
The Glowworm Cave, is a segment The Cathedral, the caves’ tallest and sprinkled across the rocky roof, the
of the entire Waitomo Caves network, chamber, and renowned for flaunting collective brilliance against the shadowy
and consists of three levels. The upper beautiful acoustics, is lodged in the lower backdrop, is vividly reminiscent of a
section features the refreshingly exquisite region. dreamy night sky – perhaps even more
Catacombs, Tomo and The Pipe Organ, Close by, a stream of water flows mesmerising.
17Nature’s
Elemental pits of
flames and fire.
By Phua Jun Han
FieryFury
THE PROSPECT OF TRAVERSING
AN ACTIVE VOLCANO is certain to
send a blaze down your spine. Yet, the
coadunation of the unprecedented thrill
of facing the incendiary elements, and
the unparalleled rustic grace of Earth’s
creations, is a smouldering experience
like no other.
Photo: Petr Novak
18FEATURE
t STROMBOLI
Italy
Situated off the Sicilian Coast, this
volcanic island is poised entrancingly
and majestically, in near-symmetrical
fashion. The smoke billows daintily;
there is constant moderate volcanic
activity. Towering at 924m above sea Photo: Sara Marlowe
level, the view of the Tyrrhenian Sea
from above is vividly resplendent.
Visitors seeking to reach the
peak have to follow guided tours,
which are available between March
and October, and typically begin in
the late afternoon. At the summit,
witness the lava compellingly spew p MOUNT BROMO
out of the crater in relative proximity, Indonesia
with your naked eye; the encounter Named after the Hindu god of creation, Brahma, this legendary
is simply surreal. Against the dreamy Indonesian volcano is a colossal presence. Part of a sprawling
night-sky, the scene is phenomenal. complex that encompasses Mount Semuru, Mount Batok and
several other mountains, the entire landscape is breathtakingly
electrifying. The journey on foot to the summit takes
approximately 2 hours. Alternatively, opt for horseback rides that
bring you close to the volcano. Brave a length of “Sea of Sand”,
pass by a sacred Hindu temple, and scale a stretch of upward
ascent, before you reach the vast Bromo boiling crater. Within,
pillars of smoke swirl; there is a faint sulphurous scent – the raw
force of Mother Nature is palpable.
t KAWAH IJEN
Indonesia
East Java is home to one of Earth’s most astounding experiences.
In the bank of Ijen’s crater, wicked blue flames dance delightfully
Photo: Candra Firmansyah
and tantalisingly – a consequence of the combustion of sulfuric
gases. Only noticeable in darkness, keen explorers would have to
begin their two hour long journey up the 2799m frame just after
midnight, then embark on a forty-five minute descent (equipped
with a gas mask) into the crater. Nearby, a toxic green-hued lake
sizzles in ominous mien, highly acidic due to the reaction with
hydrogen chloride gas. Dripped with an air of terrestrial deviltry, the
whole compound makes for extraordinary viewing.Sigurbjornsson
Photo: Borkur FEATURE
Photo: Guillaume Baviere
p HEKLA
Iceland
Snow-capped and mighty, it is dignifiedly
beautiful from afar. But the volcano is
often dubbed “The Gateway to Hell”;
it is one of the Nordic country’s most
active, and most destructive. The base is
accessible by a 4x4 drive, and the 7km
hiking route up to the wintry rim leads
one to terrific views of South Iceland.
During spring, skiing trails are open
around the crater, giving rise to skiing
and snowboarding opportunities down
the nival slopes. Given the cataclysmic
reputation though, and a forecasted long-
overdue eruption, fearless adventurers
have to be fully aware of the risk, and
consistently retrieve up-to-date news.
u CERRO NEGRO
Nicaragua
Translating to Black Hill in English, Central America’s
youngest volcano sports a gravelly and dusty façade.
The steep terrain is lined with fine volcanic sand –
suitable conditions for an exhilarating activity unique
CAUTION to the site: volcano boarding. Group tours take you
Photo: Beth and Anth
Due to the hazardous nature of such on an arduous hour-long climb up to the top, under
endeavours, travellers are advised the relentless sun, where a visibly steaming crater
to strictly follow all regulations and awaits you. From there, there is only one way down:
safety guidelines set in place by
on a sturdy (volcano!) board. Geared up with orange
local authorities. Flouting such rules
prison-like tracksuits and visors, the swift whizzing
might mean placing yourselves, and
others, in unwarranted danger. descent can be beguilingly fast – speeds can reach up
to 95km per hour.
20Golden
GOBI
Across two countries sits Asia’s largest
desert, where a sandstorm of unbridled
adventure awaits.
By Cheryl Kho
Photo: Yang Shuo
22MONGOLIA FEATURE
THINK DESERT and you invariably of distinctive topography makes for Gurvansaikhan ‘Three Beauties’
conjure up a desolate picture of a most rewarding expedition for National Park, the largest in
parched earth, barren terrain and the offbeat traveller. Mongolia, where city-dwellers
vast swathes of monolithic sand A journey off the beaten path are grateful for the unparalleled
dunes - not a soul in sight as far as lies ahead as your off-road Russian serenity presented.
the eye can see. Mongolia’s Gobi jeep trundles bumpily along. The park’s beautiful Yolyn Am
Desert proves an unexpectedly Fresh out of Ulaanbaatar with Gorge, typically a hallmark of
refreshing anomaly to this dreary your trusty driver at the wheel, lusher settings, is a peculiar find
conjecture. rolling green plains peppered with out here in the desert. Along the
From lush saxual forests and grazing livestock come into view 2km walk from the parking lot to
rocky mountains to frigid glaciers - a welcome change from the the gorge, catch a glimpse of the
and tranquil canyons, its plethora thronging congestion of the city. diverse wildlife that make this area
This empty alien landscape their home - from grazing herds of
comes to life in the Gobi shaggy yak to Argali sheep.
TO BRING:
• Versatile clothing, from
summer attire to fleece
jackets, for the climate of
extremes
• A bandana to protect
your orifices from the
dust
• Wet wipes, for the lack of
showers, and toilet paper
• Insect repellant against
relentless desert flies
23Catch the solitary bearded vulture Who knew a desert could house a slates of sand measure about 12
or the Mongolian Yol swooping glacier? kilometres wide and more than a
above its eponymous valley, which Metres-thick sheets of ice 100 kilometres long, reaching up to
you can navigate either on foot or span the shadowy pockets of the an impressive height of 800 meters.
on horseback. The white scrapes on deep canyon where sunshine Even for avid hikers, hiking up
the ravine’s craggy rock faces are cannot reach, making for a chilly one of the most spectacular dunes
the only hint of the area’s wild ibex but fulfilling hike. Wind your way in the world is a feat unlike no
which are as elusive as quicksilver through the 8km-long valley, other. The loose powder is a literal
and a rare sight. exploring its clandestine ice tunnels ‘two steps forward, one step back’
Icy water runs through this carved in melted glacier, to the affair as you sink into the mounds
narrow cleft in the Zuun Saikhan other end of the gorge from where with every footfall. From the sandy
mountains in a steady trickle. your driver can pick you up en route summit, the vista before you is
During the rainy season, the sluice to the park’s next wonder. incredible, profoundly peaceful and
of rainwater down the precipice What greater music than the more than worth the uphill effort.
creates a cascading waterfall that songs of the sand? As the dry winds A sea of smooth sand spreads out
feeds the stream within the gorge. send the fine grains shuffling, the in every direction, its unblemished
Flanked by pebble beds and sheer melodic reverberation of the famed golden surface tousled in ripples
towering cliffs up to 200 metres Khongoryn Els Singing Dunes is from the wind’s caress.
high, the stunning valleyed Yolyn ice the resounding theme song of Nothing prepares you for the
field is a picturesque sight to behold. the national park. These massive arrestingly beautiful panorama of the
24MONGOLIA FEATURE
smooth dunes yonder melting into and comfortable lodging. In return, it
the yellows and pinks of the glorious is customary to come bearing small
desert sunset. gifts like pocket knives or flashlights and
Nearby sits the White Pearl of sweets or toys for the children.
Gobi, the traditional Mongolian ger, A rosy-cheeked nomadic family
from which a muffled din emanates: emerges, all smiles, in a flurry of excited
Flanked by
the bleating of sheep, the grunting welcomes warmly reminiscent of a
of yaks and the busy commotion of home away from home.
pebble beds and colourful family life.
Amid these vast flatlands,
Pulling back the felt sheepskin
door flap and stepping inside, the
sheer towering the quaint cluster of tents is an
extraordinary sight, lined with
sweet warmth is gratifyingly assaulting.
Framed by a structured wooden lattice
cliffs up to 200 crates of peculiar yellowish globs of supporting the soft tent walls, the ger is
drying aaruul (traditional dried curd surprisingly sturdy and spacious within,
metres high, the cheese), a strong-tasting medley telling of its inherent practicality against
of sweet and sour for cast iron the elements.
stunning valleyed stomachs. Once seated cross-legged on
Yolyn ice field is a
The Mongolian nomad families the ger floor, receive the offered
of the Gobi are one of the friendliest traditional Suutei Tsai, a peculiar
picturesque sight and most hospitable people,
especially to passing sojourners.
brew of Mongolian salty milk tea - a
gastronomic exploit in itself that
to behold. They readily provide rich meaty fare travellers either love or hate. Even if the
tang makes you wrinkle your nose, take
at least a sip out of
Photo: Einar Fredriksen
respect.
Nothing
screams back-
to-basics like
an authentic
Mongolian
homestay
experience with
these modest
families. Here,
TO DO:
• Get a local driver from learn the ways of
Ulaanbaatar city - a the nomads, from
cheaper and safer
alternative to booking
online
• Ask to meet the driver
before embarking
on your trip to check
English proficiency and
experience
• Check the sturdiness of
their vehicle upfront as
well as spare tires and
shocks
• Ensure the driver has
and is capable of using a
map and a GPS unit
• Buy a prepaid card with
free data from the city
to stay connected in the
wilderness
• Prepare for hours-long
van rides with music,
cards, carsick medication
and pillows.
25FEATURE MONGOLIA
milking their livestock to taking apart warrants at least a day’s worth of
and reconstructing the ger. Relish the exploration on camelback - truly a
quality headspace as you relax beneath quintessential desert experience.
an inky, star-strung night sky unsullied With the bumpy camel ride
by the city’s lights. behind you, you may relish the
Even learn to use the rickety smoother journey back in the trusty
outhouse, a little more than a sheltered van as you bid the lovely family
hole in the ground that is sure to paint goodbye.
city sanitation in a new light for us As the UNESCO-declared largest
urbanites. dinosaur fossil reservoir in the
Dotted around the gers are specks world, the Gobi unveils the ultimate
of brown: grazing native Bactrian playground for paleontologists and
camels which never fail to fascinate. those of us who simply want to
To the Mongols and their wayfaring glimpse remains of these monstrous
origins, they are livestock or modes storied reptiles.
of travel. To the unversed, they make Enter Bayanzag and its Flaming
for gentle companions and thrilling Cliffs as dubbed by paleontologist
Instagrammable rides for which the Roy Chapman Andrews who made
nomad families are happy to saddle the phenomenal discovery of the
you up. first dinosaur eggs in the world. The
Perched upon the back of the brick-red hues of rock sediments
hairy creature,
flush between its
two distinctive
humps, is a fresh
Gobi-style take on
transportation as
you sway along to
its rhythmic gait.
Photo: Einar Fredriksen
The expanse of
the Khongoryn
Els Singing Dunes
here make for a distinctive Martian
landscape, its rocky valleys dotted
with thorny saxaul shrubbery.
It is admittedly a staggering
experience to be standing amid
a graveyard of our monstrous
predecessors from millennia ago.
Rummage around for some fossils
and bones in a Jurassic Park-
esque fantasy as you envisage the
fearsome reptiles that used to walk
the earth.
Navigate the contours of these
Photo: Marcin Konsek
ochre ridges for a truly scenic hike,
where the sweeping views vary
from every angle. At sunset, the fiery
shades truly burn bright, bathed in
the rich glow and juxtaposed against
the flourishing green of the valley
below.
26Here, learn the ways of the
nomads, from milking their
livestock to taking apart and
reconstructing the ger.
GETTING THERE:
Notable flag carriers like
Air China, Singapore
Airlines and Cathay
By this point, you will inevitably purges. The remaining three are and history
Pacific offer connecting
be well-acquainted with the faithful dedicated to a stage in Buddha’s - a crucial flights to Chinggis Khaan
four-wheel ride as your driver takes life - childhood, adolescence and conclusion to International Airport
turns out of nowhere, recognising adulthood - each of which is home your complete of Mongolian capital
invisible direction markers in to myriad monuments waiting to be Gobi desert city Ulaanbaatar. From
the seemingly homogeneous discovered. escapade. the city, you can hire a
wilderness. Entrance to the grounds is free, a A final van private local driver
Northbound toward the outskirts definitive cue to roam the premises journey to to bring you into Gobi
of Gobi brings a welcome change of and soak in hallowed heritage. the beat of via four-wheel
scenery from peaceful multifarious Marvel at artefacts like tsam masks, Mongolian
drive.
nature to the colourful town of thangka paintings, and revered 18th- country
Kharkhorin, the former capital of the century sculptures at every turn. The music takes
Mongol empire. Its prime landmark, entirety of the walled compound is you back toward the hustle and
Erdene Zuu Monastery, was the first, lined with 108 (a sacred number to bustle of Ulaanbaatar city. There is a
largest and oldest surviving Buddhist Buddhists) stupas - religious relics conflicting ambivalence to this: the
monastery in Mongolia. harbouring symbolic meaning. lovely respite of modern luxury and
In its heyday, it was a picture of Today, the monastery remains connectivity yet the hectic return
majesty, housing up to 1000 monks the preserved centrepiece of to fast-paced civilisation a sharp
and more than 60 temples, most of Kharkhorin for an eye-opening contrast to the idyllic charm of the
which were destroyed in religious glimpse into ancient Mongol culture Gobi Desert.
27FEATURE OMAN
Arabian
Photo: Andries Oudshoorn
Sanctuary
TIP:
Oman’s Wadi Bani Khalid hides in plain sight. By Phua Jun Han Do note that
Oman’s official religion
THE BEAUTY OF AN OASIS always lies in is Islam. Don’t hesitate to
take a dip in the revitalising
the form of contrast: miles and miles of
waters, but do so while
arid landscape and sprawling baking brown
adequately covered up –
sand, then a sudden sharp dash of paradise- it is a form of
like vibrancy. respect.
The Wadi is precisely one such haven.
About 200 km from the capital Muscat,
amidst the colossal plains of barren land
Photo: Richard Bartz
(envision the Empty Quarter in the country’s
South-West, with the towering sand dunes),
the valley emerges like a rare polished
diamond, virtually out of nowhere.
Rocky, grainy slopes flank the sides.
In the middle, the emerald-green waters
dazzle. Exquisite date palms line up placidly.
The turquoise lagoons entice. Given the
year-round high temperatures, the prospect of a cosy Strong swimmers and adventure-seekers will fancy Wadi Bani
Khalid
dip is ever so inviting. The lower basins are larger but exploring the Kahf Maqal underground caves, once a
busier; the upper pools are perhaps less accessible, but shelter for bandit-evading travellers.
not as crowded and equally invigorating nonetheless. The golden Wahiba Sands down south. The dusty
Nizwa Fort, west side. Amongst the sweltering,
burnt, sepia complexion of the fascinating
Sultanate, the Wadi Bani Khalid exists, as a
brilliant visual and spiritual retreat – while
still remaining in the thick of the arenaceous
action.
GETTING THERE: The Wadi is located about 3
Photo: John Crane
hours away from Muscat and 2 hours from Sur. Given
the relative distance, do explore the possibility of
combining the trip to the oasis, with a desert night
camping experience. Many agencies offering such
adventures operate in the vicinity of the ravine.
28TRAVEL TIPS ››
Ready to embrace the gorgeous golden sand? This list is crafted to optimise
your trip to the desert, whether with a guide, or as a solo sojourner.
By Phua Jun Han
DRINK WATER DESERT SURVIVAL
The golden rule for any adventure, TECHNIQUES
but especially, especially essential in No, I’m not jinxing it, but in the
the desert. With the temperatures unlikely event of an emergency,
possibly rising to above 40°C in the being equipped with desert
day, and the unforgiving sun beating survival knowledge will come in
down on you, it is necessary to handy. Or at least read up some
keep your bodies hydrated. A great basic survival skills beforehand.
guideline would be to bring along Some quick tips. 1. Be on the
at least 4 litres of water a day per move at night, when it is cooler,
person. Also, while there might while you rest in a shade during
be water sources out there, you the day. 2. If water is scarce,
really don’t want to be relying avoid consuming too much
on the unpredictable for food, as you could get even
something so crucial. thirstier as a result. 3. If lost,
it is best to at least find
SKIN PROTECTION Northing, choose which
With the blazing sun rays direction would best lead you
shining on you, protection to help, then move and stay in
from the heat of the sun is that single orientation.
critical. The worst thing that
could happen is a painful sunburn CAMEL RIDING
ruining your vacation. You might Chances are, you will likely find
want to wear a thin, loose-fitting, yourselves riding a camel. Here
long-sleeved shirt, to protect your is one key pointer. Sway with the
arms. And definitely bring along a camel. Their gait is irregular, and
hat, scarf, a pair of sunglasses, lip intermittent, great for the sandy
balm and sunscreen. climate, but rough and unnatural
for the rider. Instead of attempting
NIGHT-TIME EQUIPPING to resist, move together with the
The desert is known for the camel. It might be awkward and
spectrum of extreme counterintuitive at first, but by
temperatures, swelteringly going along with their motion, the
hot in the day, and really expedition would be much steadier
cold at night. If your desert and more fluid.
adventure lasts for an
extended period of time,
be sure to also bring along
clothing and gear appropriate
for the desert night weather.
Minimally consider adding
a warm blanket, insulation
socks and a jacket to your
packing list.
29TRAVEL NEWS
Battle of the Skies Singapore remains on top!
According to the Henley Passport Index, Singapore remains in
the top spot together with Japan and South Korea. Passport
holders from these three countries have a visa-free or visa-
on-arrival access to 189 destinations.
Scoot suspends flights to four cities
Due to weak demand and shortage in aircrafts, Scoot has
suspended flights to Lucknow, Kalibo, Quanzhou and Male.
All flights to these places are served by the airline’s Airbus
A320 aircraft.
Scoot currently flies to Lucknow, Kalibo and Quanzhou
three times weekly, and Male four times weekly.
Not sure where to go or where to start your travels?
Start by looking at these flight tickets to the
countries we’ve featured for this issue!
MONGOLIA › Take a trip down to Mongolia! Flight tickets start from $1,567, given
that you will need to have a stop over Beijing if you take Air China. Singapore Airlines
also flies to Mongolia, having to stop over Hong Kong then transferring to MIAT.
NEW ZEALAND › Get a direct flight to Auckland via Air New
Zealand for $885! If you would like to stop over Brisbane for a
short while, Singapore Airlines has a flight that does just that!
OMAN › Start your journey to Oman by flying with
Emirates for $835. Or fly with Qatar Airways for $865
with a layover at Doha.
RUSSIA › Depart Singapore with Singapore Airlines and arrive at
Moscow starting at $1,547! LOT Polish Airlines also flies to Moscow,
having to layover at Warsaw, for $1,226.
JAPAN › Take flight to Tokyo this June holidays starting
at $953 with Japan Airlines. Or head over to the land of the
rising sun via Delta Airlines starting at $926!
*Terms and Conditions apply for all offers
30PRIVATE AND TAILOR MADE TRANS-SIBERIAN TOUR SPECIALISTS.
The Trans-Siberian Travel Company is the leading specialist for
the greatest train journey on earth - The Trans-Siberian Railway
running across China, Mongolia and Russia. Whether beginning
your journey in Beijing, Vladivostok, Moscow or St Petersburg
we have a trip for you using both public trains and luxury private
tourist services. Contact us now for planning advice to get your
epic rail adventure started!
info@thetranssiberiantravelcompany.com
www.thetranssiberiantravelcompany.com
+44 (0) 20 8816 8925 Scan to start your journey!FEATURE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY
Destination
Photo: k\Kyle
Taylor
Railway
Embark on the longest train ride
ever, where the journey IS the
destination. By Cheryl Kho
THE CLICK-CLACK of wheels on tracks
quickly becomes the soundtrack to your
railway voyage, as the locomotive chugs
steadily in a meandering fashion. Nizhny
The appeal of this unorthodox escapade Novgorod
- sequestered within the four walls of a little Suzdal Perm RUSSIA
Moscow
cabin, as scenery flashes past - may be lost
on many. But the Trans-Mongolian route on
Omsk
the legendary Trans-Siberian Railway is sure
to give travel an epic twist you won’t forget. Tomsk
The busy Beijing Railway Station is where
it all begins, a hive of activity for travellers
passing through. Stepping aboard the
westbound train toward Moscow, the narrow
passageway yields, on either end of each
car, a communal washroom and a free hot KAZAKHSTAN
water dispenser for all your instant food and
beverage needs.
A wave of claustrophobia may hit as
you enter your four-berth ‘hard sleeper’
compartment. With upper and lower beds
along each side of the wall and a large
window overlooking the vast outdoors, it is
time to get acquainted with your homely
living quarters for the days to come.
The most precious commodity en route
is the uninterrupted headspace the peaceful
journey presents, as you watch the world
go by through your window, past grassy
flowered meadows, lush forests and fleeting
glimpses of the Great Wall of China in a
distance.
The second day of train life brings you
into the southern stretches of Mongolia
and the swathes of ochre plains of Gobi
Desert. As the flat terrains get tired, recline
with headphones and a good paperback
to drown out the rumble of the train or the
ruckus from the next cabin.
Ulaanbaatar is an exotic stopover for a Catamaran ride, Perm The Urals, Russia
nomadic adventure into the desert beyond.
As the train clambers through Mongolia
into the gloomy dusk, the cabins light up TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY in NUMBERS
with activity as its occupants emerge for an
9289 kilometres 8 time zones
evening dose of vodka over a hearty game of
87 cities past 7 days aboard
poker and sobering conversation.
16 Russian rivers 2 continents
There is something magical about
32The Kremlin, Moscow Lake Baikal, Russia Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
the convergence of unlikely friends from
around the globe into a railway cabin. One
of the most treasured memories will be the
human connection with your new travel
companions exchanging enrapturing tales of
Krasnoyarsk
life all over the world.
Awake the next day to the crystalline
surface of Lake Baikal unruffled by all but the
Irkutsk tendrils of morning mist as the train skirts its
watery edges beneath your window. Irkutsk
Ulan Ude is the gateway to this ‘Pearl of Siberia’, the
world’s largest, clearest and deepest lake.
Trek a scenic route along the Great Baikal
Trail or try snowmobiling and ice-biking.
Ulaanbaatar While dramatically photogenic all year round,
MONGOLIA it is especially so in winter as streaks of white
criss-cross the glassy frozen surface and
carve clandestine grottoes in the ice.
Gobi Desert From the restaurant car, grab some
Russian tea and schnitzels as you drink in the
Beijing gleaming ripples on the glorious Yenisei River.
Entering Siberian landscapes, the flavour of
CHINA idyllic countryside briefly unfolds before your
eyes amid quaint wooden cottages, winding
dirt paths and wispy birch trees.
In sharp juxtaposition to the rural comes
looming buildings and vivid onion-domed
churches, the first hint of Perm city, painted
against the backdrop of the silhouetted Ural
Mountains.
A spirited metropolis with a wild side to
discover, Perm conceals its wintry secret,
the mysterious Kungur Ice Caves, within
its magnetic river-centric haven, boasting
Photo:Mike
Stenhouse
serene catamaran tours and the thrill of
whitewater rafting.
Beijing Railway Station Gobi Desert, Mongolia With the hubbub of Perm behind
you, it is onward into colourful Moscow,
TIP Russia’s soulful cultural epicentre, in all of its
The painstaking details of your trip, from stopovers historical glory. After the digital disconnect
and the accompanying separate tickets to on the rails, pulling into Moscow’s imposing
compartment type and class, may be best handled Yaroslavski station is like rejoining civilisation,
for you by a travel agent to cover all bases. albeit coupled with a tinge of bittersweet
wistfulness at journey’s end.
33FEATURE JAPAN
Exploring: TOKYO
We create a route for the
casual urban jogger, keen to
explore Japan’s capital in a
whole new light.
By Phua Jun Han Itsubi Park
THERE IS SOMETHING uniquely ASAKUSA
different, as you revisit the city’s allure –
on a pair of running shoes. ASAKUSA
Dengama Museum
URBAN RUNNING
Photo: Emi Moriya
Now a worldwide social campaign, this Tawaramachi
Dandelion Chocolate
sport is the discovery of a city’s urban Factory & Café
landscape, usually in a close-knit group, Kuramae
aptly dubbed urban running crews. It Handmade chocolate Torinji
store, produced on-site.
is hardly about setting personal bests, KAMINA
Convention & Visitors
but more about the company, the thrill
of weaving past the uncharted and
the untrodden, while embracing street
Photo: Tokyo
culture.
Gonaenji Bureau
EXPLORING TOKYO
The bustling Japanese capital is an YOMAGA
amalgamation of wonders, destined Kaminarimon
to fascinate any traveller. Cutting-edge Grandiose temple gate.
conceptions mesh flawlessly with
convention; the contemporary blends Dandelion Kakimori
Chocolate
soulfully amongst the time-honoured.
START
Over in Eastern Tokyo, the region Maito
around the Kuramae and Asakusa
District is splashed with old-world
vibes. Just across the Sumida River that An air of festivity
flows adjacent to the precincts, stylish Tako Kimura Maito Design Works, pervades the streets.
Shoten
high-rise buildings soar spiritedly, visible Kuramae There is palpable
inland. ≈ KURAMAE Textiles atelier and clamour and frenzy.
As you race around the This balmy and laid-back boutique, employing Forget the glitz and
neighbourhood, bask in the area’s locale is home to several the kusakizome dyeing glamour of the modern
refreshingly modern construct, and trendy cafes and local technique (plant-based sky-high city and
distinctively old-school aura. Whizzing creative boutiques. dyes). embrace the ebullient
past the sprawling skyscrapers, through The enclave sports a razzmatazz of the
the nostalgia-infused streets and pleasant, inviting outlook; Kakimori Shitamachi’s bazaar-like
amongst the quaint, artisan shops, all pastel-dyed walls and Speciality stationery esprit.
within close proximity to each other, doors, delicately adorned shop; their made-to-
the experience is certain to confound storefronts and clean, order notebooks are Kaminarimon
and astound. minimalist interiors add extremely popular. A gigantic red lantern
Whilst this route was curated for the an alluring texture to the is poised regally, in
sightseeing runner, if you are heading district. ≈ ASAKUSA between several
off to Tokyo, but not intending to strain Remarkably redolent domineering pillars
your body, do not hesitate to follow the Dandelion Chocolate of “Old Tokyo”, the that stand securely in
track as a walking guide! Factory & Café Kuramae entire district is teeming guard. The kanji etching
Handmade chocolate store, with tradition and translates to “thunder
produced on-site. sentimentality. gate” in English.
34Kimishowota
Edo Shitamachi
Traditional Crafts
Photo:
Museum
Don Quijote Hanayashiki Hanayashiki
Asakusa Amusement Amusement Park
Park
Japan’s oldest
Visitors Bureau
Convention &
Marugoto
Photo: Tokyo
Nippon theme park. Sensō-ji
Taito Riverside
Buddhist temple; Sports Center
Senso-ji hallmark of Asakusa.
ROX
Tokyo
Hotarudo Hoppy Street
Sumida
Denbouin Park
Street
Tokyo Municipal
Yonoya Industry & Trade
Kushiho SUMIDA
HERITAGE
Kaminarimon HANAKAWADO MUSEUM
Gate
Kototoi
Bridge
RIMON R
DA RIVE
S UMI
Ushijima
Shrine
Tokyo Skytree
Sumida 634m tall television
Park
broadcasting tower.
Visitors Bureau
Convention &
ATA Asahi Beer Catch marvellous Tokyo
Photo: Tokyo Convention
Photo: Tokyo
HQ cityscape views from
the two Observation
Decks.
& Visitors Bureau
Asahi Beer Honjo-
Headquarters Azumabashi
Operations centre
of the Japanese
beverage company. Don Quijote Asakusa
Popular discount chain
store. Tokyo
Skytree
20th century charm, the Sumida Park
Denbouin Street Marugoto Nippon playground’s positioning Riverside park with
Passageway vividly Modern shopping at that exact turf, within gorgeous cherry
reminiscent of the Edo- compound. Classy an antiquated district, is blossom views during END
era with many speciality façade; odd placement, utterly felicitous. the season. Honjo Tax
stores selling traditional again. Office 2 Chome
crafts. Sensō-ji Asahi Beer
Edo Shitamachi Said to have been Headquarters
Yonoya Kushiho Traditional Crafts founded in the year 628, The headquarters
Along Denbouin-dori, Museum this temple is dedicated comprises of two
producing boxwood Museum showcasing to Kannon Bodhisattva, structures. The larger Tokyo Skytree
combs since 1717. the best of Edo arts and Lord of Compassion. Asahi Beer Tower From the other bank
crafts. resembles a golden beer of the river, lingering
Tokyo Hotarudo ≈ ACROSS THE mug, with the white in the backdrop of
Vintage goods and Hanayashiki SUMIDA RIVER roofing replicating beer the historical Asakusa
antiquities up for grabs. Amusement Park Leave behind the foam. The iconic smaller neighbourhood, this
Established since 1853, retro flavour and be Asahi Beer Hall has a modern architectural feat
Asakusa ROX this compactly arranged hurled into the modern shape of a beer glass, is a glorious reminder of
Retail complex. Curious, funfair is a gleaming era where glossy, with an odd flame-like the Japanese capital’s
given the surrounding dose of retro charm. architectural behemoths structure perched on mighty technological
olde worlde atmosphere. Strikingly evocative of rise in dazzling fashion. top. progress.
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