Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry - Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products
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Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products
Contents
Executive Summary 5 For more information contact:
enquiries@greenpeace.org
Section 1 : Methodology and results 11 Acknowledgements:
We would like to thank the following
people who contributed to the creation
of this report. If we have forgotten
Section 2: Discussion of results in relation to anyone, they know that that our
the stances of major clothing brands 17 gratitude is also extended to them:
Kristin Casper, Jamie Choi,
Tommy Crawford, Steve Erwood,
Marietta Harjono, Martin Hojsík,
Section 3: Conclusions and recommendations 21 Li Yifang, Sara del Rio,
Tony Sadownichik, Melissa Shinn,
Ilze Smit, Dave Walsh
Appendix 1 24 Creative Direction & Design by:
Appendix 2 26 Arc Communications
Appendix 3 Front cover image and product 29
shots, pages 14-15:
References30 © Alex Stoneman / Greenpeace
Back cover image:
© Rachel Corner / Greenpeace
.
JN 387
Published by
Greenpeace International
Ottho Heldringstraat 5
1066 AZ Amsterdam
The Netherlands
Tel: +31 20 7182000
greenpeace.org
Terminology used in this report
Bioaccumulation: the mechanism by which chemicals Persistence: the property of a chemical whereby it does not
accumulate in living organisms and get passed along the degrade in the environment, or degrades very slowly.
food chain. Plastisol: A suspension of plastic particles, commonly
Hormone disruptors: chemicals known to interfere PVC or EVA, in a plasticiser. Used as ink for screen-printing
with hormone systems of organisms. For nonylphenol, images and logos onto textiles.
the most widely recognised hazard is the ability to mimic Surfactants: chemicals used to lower the surface tension of
natural oestrogen hormones. This can lead to altered liquids. They include wetting agents, detergents, emulsifiers,
sexual development in some organisms, most notably the foaming agents and dispersants used in a variety of industrial
feminisation of fish. and consumer applications including textile manufacture.
Note to the reader
Throughout this report we refer to the terms ‘Global North’ and ‘Global South’ to describe two distinct groups of countries.
The term ‘Global South’ is used to describe developing and emerging countries, including those facing the challenges of
often rapid industrial development or industrial restructuring, such as Russia. Most of the Global South is located in South and
Central America, Asia and Africa. The term ‘Global North’ is used for developed countries, predominantly located in North
America and Europe, with high human development, according to the United Nations Human Development Index.* Most, but
not all, of these countries are located in the northern hemisphere.
* United Nations Development Programme (UNDP). (2005). Human Development Report 2005. International cooperation at a crossroads. Aid, trade and security in an
unequal world. Available at: http://hdr.undp.org/en/media/HDR05_complete.pdf
Greenpeace Dirty Laundry 2:
© ALEX STONEMAN / Greenpeace
International Hung Out to Dry
Unravelling the toxic
trail from pipes to
products
Who will rise to
the challenge
and champion
a toxic-free future?
Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products 3
4 Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products
Greenpeace Dirty Laundry 2: Executive
© ALEX STONEMAN / Greenpeace
International Hung Out to Dry Summary
Unravelling the toxic
trail from pipes to
products
Executive
Summary
Detox our clothing, Greenpeace purchased the articles tested from companies’
flagship stores and from other stores authorised to sell
detox our water the branded products. The stores were located across 18
countries from both the Global North and Global South,
Research commissioned by Greenpeace
and articles were purchased during April and May 2011.3
International has revealed that clothing and Product labels show that the articles were manufactured
certain fabric-based shoes sold internationally in 13 different countries, while three items are of unknown
by major clothing brands are manufactured manufacturing origin.4 The clothing sampled was made
using nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs). NPEs from both natural and synthetic fabrics, and included items
– which are used as surfactants in textile designed for men, women and children. A variety of items
– including shirts, jackets, trousers, underwear and fabric-
production - subsequently break down to
based shoes – were tested.
form toxic nonylphenol (NP). Nonylphenol is a
Greenpeace submitted all 78 articles of clothing for
persistent chemical with hormone-disrupting
analysis by a leading independent laboratory, which
properties that builds up in the food chain, and examined them for the presence of NPEs. Where
is hazardous even at very low levels. released untreated, NPEs break down in rivers to form
The investigation involved the analysis of 78 articles of the persistent, toxic and hormone disrupting NP. Even
sports and recreational clothing and shoes bearing the where wastewater treatment facilities are present, they are
logos of 15 leading clothing brands. The 15 brands were: unable to fully breakdown NPEs, and instead only partially
Abercombie & Fitch, Adidas, Calvin Klein , Converse, GAP, degrade them – often even speeding up their conversion
2
G-Star RAW, H&M, Kappa, Lacoste, Li Ning, Nike, Puma, into the toxic NP.
Ralph Lauren, Uniqlo and Youngor. Detection of NPEs in fabrics is therefore an indicator
that NPEs were used during production, resulting
in increased levels of nonylphenol reaching the
environment; such as in waterways or rivers.
Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products 5
Key findings It is also important to note that the non-detection of
NPEs does not rule out NPEs being used in the production
Of the 78 articles analysed, 52 (two-thirds) tested of a garment, as the finished clothing may have undergone
positive for the presence of NPEs above the limit of thorough washing prior to retailing. This may have washed
detection of 1 milligram NPEs/kilogram material (mg/ out all residues of NPEs from the fabric prior to sale.
kg). (For more detailed results please refer to the Results Such washing would only have further contributed to
section on page 11). NPEs were detected in clothing sold inputs of NPEs/NP into the environment during the
by 14 out of the 15 brands tested, in clothing from 17 out of manufacturing stage.
18 of the countries where the items were purchased, and
in 12 out of 13 of the countries where the products tested Number Number
originated from. Brand
of samples tested positive
The companies whose products tested positive for NPEs
include the major international brands: Abercombie & 3 3
Fitch, Adidas, Calvin Klein, Converse, G-Star RAW, H&M,
Kappa, Lacoste, Li Ning, Nike, Puma, Ralph Lauren, Uniqlo
9 4
and Youngor.
Hung out to dry 4 3
The results of the research clearly demonstrate
that NPEs have been used at some stage in the 6 5
manufacturing processes of clothing bearing the
brands of a number of major international clothing 5 3
companies. These include items bearing the logos of
Adidas and 13 of the other 14 brands examined as part of
this investigation. 2 0
This analysis also confirms that the use of hazardous
chemicals in textile production is not limited to clothing 6 4
products manufactured in China; it is in fact the case
for major-brand articles manufactured in a number of 5 4
countries. The results demonstrate that this is a global
issue tying major clothing brands to toxic pollution released
4 1
by multiple facilities and suppliers and found in multiple
clothing items.
4 4
Furthermore, major clothing brands are making their
consumers unwitting contributors to increasing
levels of hazardous nonylphenol in the environment 10 5
and water bodies of countries where the products
are purchased, as the washing of these clothing items
9 7
can release residual levels of NPEs contained within the
apparel into sewage systems. Although the level of NPEs
in any given article of clothing is small, the sheer volume of 4 3
clothing being sold and subsequently washed means that
the total quantities being released may be substantial.
4 3
The global nature of clothing production and trade also
means that articles containing residual levels of NPEs are
3 3
being imported into countries, such as members of the EU,
where the use of these chemicals in clothing manufacture
has effectively been banned.5 total 78 52
6 Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products
Greenpeace Dirty Laundry 2: Executive
International Hung Out to Dry Summary
Unravelling the toxic
trail from pipes to
products
Clothing and the
global toxic cycle 4) Global exports deliver
clothing containing residual
levels of NPEs to markets
even where these chemicals
are banned in clothing
manufacture.
1) Formulations
containing
nonylphenol
ethoxylates (NPEs)
and other chemicals
are delivered to textile 5) Washing
manufacturers for use releases NPEs
as surfactants. to water treatment
facilities.
6) Water treatment
is generally
ineffective in
2) Lax regulation permits dealing with NPEs,
wastewater discharges essentially only
of NPEs which break speeding up their
down into persistent, breakdown
bioaccumulative and to toxic NPs.
hormone-disrupting
nonylphenols (NPs)
in rivers.
7) Hormone-disrupting
NPs end up in aquatic
systems even in
3) NPs countries where use of
accumulate in the parent compounds
sediments and (NPEs) is banned.
can build up in
the food chain,
such as in fish.
“The problem and the
solution are not only a cause
for local concern. This is a
truly global issue.”
Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products 7
The need for leadership Signs of progress
Irrespective of statements about corporate responsibility, The findings from this analysis build on two earlier studies
the results presented in this study indicate that major published by Greenpeace. The report Swimming in
clothing brands do not currently have adequate policies, Chemicals found that nonylphenol (as well as PFOS, and
practices or control over their production processes other perfluorinated chemicals) were present in fish from
to prevent their supply chains from using and releasing the Yangtze River Delta.6 A more recent study, detailed
hazardous chemicals into the environment, nor to in the Dirty Laundry report, found hazardous chemicals
prevent them from leaving residues of these chemicals in in samples of wastewater discharges from two Chinese
their products. textile processing facilities, the Youngor Textile City
Complex and the Well Dyeing Factory Limited.7 These
The research highlights that the use of hazardous
facilities have links to a number of major international and
chemicals by the textile industry is a widespread
national clothing brands including Adidas, Nike, Puma and
and pervasive problem which international clothing
the Chinese company Li Ning.
brands are currently not addressing adequately.
Following the release of Dirty Laundry in July 2011, the
As brand owners, they are in the best position to
international sport lifestyle company Puma committed
influence the environmental impacts of production
to the elimination of all releases of hazardous chemicals
by working together with their suppliers to eliminate
throughout its supply chain by 2020, along with an action
the releases of all hazardous chemicals from the
plan detailing how it would deliver on this commitment
production process and their products. These brands
to be made publicly available within the following
need to take responsibility for the use and release of
eight weeks8. Nike’s subsequent commitment to zero
persistent, hormone-disrupting chemicals into our critical
discharge by 2020 not only adds a commitment to action
and life-sustaining waterways, in both textile-producing
on disclosing its hazardous chemical discharges to the
countries and in the countries where their products are
public but also offers to share its tools with the whole
ultimately sold.
apparel sector, seeking to catalyse a sectoral shift, and
Major brands have a special responsibility to ensure that also supports the goal of systemic societal change.9
their overall environmental policies and performance Greenpeace is calling on all the other brands
are consistent with the brand values they espouse. to eliminate releases of hazardous chemicals
This is something they are currently failing to achieve. throughout their supply chains and from their
A commitment to zero discharge of hazardous products and to convert their words into concrete
chemicals and greater transparency throughout the actions that help bring about a toxic-free world.
supply chain – along with a plan on how to achieve
this – is urgently needed in order to prevent the
further accumulation of hazardous substances in the
aquatic environment, and the resulting build-up in
people and wildlife.
8 Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products
Greenpeace Dirty Laundry 2: Executive
International Hung Out to Dry Summary
Unravelling the toxic
trail from pipes to
products
© WILL ROSE / Greenpeace
Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products 9
01 10 Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products
Greenpeace Dirty Laundry 2: Section
© ALEX STONEMAN / Greenpeace
International Hung Out to Dry one
Unravelling the toxic
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products
Methodology
and results
1
Scope and extent of While still in the store, purchased articles were immediately
sealed in individual clean polyethylene bags.
the research
Transport
The analysis of clothing and certain fabric-based
shoes focused on the quantification of NPE Sealed bags containing the articles were sent to the
Greenpeace Research Laboratories, at the University of
concentrations in the products. This does not
Exeter in the UK, from where they were dispatched for
rule out the possibility that other toxic chemicals analysis.
were used in the production process, or that
traces of other pollutants were present in some Analysis
of the tested articles. Analysis of clothing was commissioned and organised
by the Greenpeace Research Laboratories and was
This research is believed to be the most conducted by an independent accredited laboratory.
extensive analysis of its kind to have been
For the majority of articles, a section of fabric that did not
conducted to date as far as products sold
bear any printing was removed and extracted.
by major clothing brands are concerned,
and certainly with respect to the coverage of From a small number of articles bearing a plastisol print of
an image, logo or text on the surface, the section on which
countries of manufacture and sale.
this item was printed was removed and extracted.
Protocol for purchase, Samples were extracted with an acetonitrile-water mixture
in the ratio 70:30 and then analysed with reversed-
transport and analysis phase HPLC liquid chromatography along with Applied
Biosystems’ API 4000 tandem mass spectrometry
Purchase
(LC-MS/MS).
Greenpeace purchased the articles of clothing that we
tested from companies’ flagship stores and other stores .
authorised to sell the branded products, in 18 countries.
In order to ensure that the branded products purchased
and tested were legitimate branded products, Greenpeace
undertook a number of measures:
• All branded products were purchased from retailers who
have represented themselves as legitimate distributors of
the respective branded products named in this report.
• Greenpeace requested confirmation from each of the
respective brands named in this report as to whether
the branded product tested was purchased via a
legitimate distributor. All stores have been confirmed
as legitimate distributors for the branded products that
we purchased10, with the exception of two stores from
Kappa11 and one from Puma12.
Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products 11Nonylphenol (NP) and Products tested, listed by brand
Nonylphenol ethoxylates
(NPEs) Brand
Number
of samples
Number
tested positive
Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs): NPEs are a
group of man-made chemicals that do not occur
3 3
in nature other than as a result of human activity.
These compounds belong to a broader group of
chemicals known as alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEs), 9 4
chemicals most widely used as surfactants, including
in formulations used by textile manufacturers. Once 4 3
released to wastewater treatment plants, or directly
into the environment, NPEs degrade to nonylphenol.13
Due to concerns about their hazardous properties, 6 5
there have been restrictions on the use of NPEs in
some regions for almost 20 years.14 5 3
Nonylphenol (NP): NP is manufactured for a
variety of specialised industrialised uses, including 2 0
the manufacture of NPEs. Following use, NPEs
can break back down into the NP from which they
were produced.15 NP is known to be persistent, 6 4
bioaccumulative and toxic, and is able to act as a
hormone disruptor.16 NP is known to accumulate 5 4
in the tissues of fish and other organisms, and
to magnify (be found at ever increasing levels)
through the food chain.17 NP has also recently 4 1
been detected in human tissue.18
4 4
In some regions, the manufacture, use and release of
NP and NPEs have been regulated for many years.
For example, NP and NPEs were included on the first 10 5
list of chemicals for priority action towards achieving
the OSPAR Convention target of ending discharges,
9 7
emissions and losses of all hazardous substances
to the marine environment of the north-east Atlantic
by 2020.19 NP has also been included as a ‘priority 4 3
hazardous substance’ under the EU Water Framework
Directive.20 Furthermore, within the EU, since January
4 3
2005 products containing greater than 0.1% of NP
or NPEs may no longer be placed on the market,
with some minor exceptions principally for closed- 3 3
loop industrial systems.21 However, the restriction on
treated textile products imported from outside the EU
total 78 52
has yet to be developed. Elsewhere, NP and NPEs
have very recently been included on the list of toxic
chemicals severely restricted for import and export in
China, which means that their import or export across
China’s borders now requires prior permission, though
their manufacture, use and release are not currently
regulated in China.22Greenpeace Dirty Laundry 2: Section
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Products tested, listed by the countries in which
Results and interpretation
they were purchased Regarding the 78 articles analysed:
Country of Number Number • 52 (two-thirds) tested positive for the presence of NPEs
Purchase of samples tested positive above the limit of detection of 1 milligram NPE/kilogram
material (mg/kg);
Argentina 4 4
• Levels of NPEs in plain fabric ranged from just above the limit
of detection up to 1100 mg/kg. One plastisol printed image
Austria 4 2
sample was found to contain NPEs at 27000 mg/kg.
China 10 7 • Clothing from all brands but one (GAP, two samples)
contained NPEs above the detection limit;
Czech Republic 4 1
• Clothing from 12 of the 13 countries of manufacture
Denmark 3 2 contained NPEs above the detection limit (the exception
being Tunisia, one sample);
Finland 1 1
• Clothing purchased in 17 out of the 18 countries
Germany 7 4 contained NPEs above the detection limit (the exception
being Sweden, two samples).
Italy 4 3
A summary of results is presented in the adjacent tables.
Japan 5 3
Netherlands 5 3
Levels of NPEs
The presence of NPEs in a product indicates it
Norway 2 2 was used during the manufacture of the product.
However, the level of NPEs in the articles is not
Philippines 4 2 indicative of the amount of NPEs used during
manufacture. It is possible that NPEs are washed out
Russia 4 4 from materials during manufacture, resulting in a low level
of NPEs in the final product. Therefore, a finished article
Spain 4 3 found to contain a low level of NPEs could have been
manufactured using far more NPEs than a finished article
Sweden 2 0 that was found to contain a higher level.
Switzerland 6 5 This study cannot indicate the extent to which NPEs are
used in the manufacture of articles for each brand as a
Thailand 4 4 whole. Similarly, no estimate can be made of the extent
to which NPEs are used in textile manufacture in each
UK 5 2 producing country as a whole. Nonetheless, the results
clearly indicate that the use of NPEs is widespread
total 78 52
throughout the international textile industry and
during the production of items for a host of major
international clothing brands.
More detailed results showing the variety of articles
analysed are contained in Appendix 1.
Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products 13Implications for wearers
The levels of NPEs detected in all articles are not known
to constitute any direct health risk to the wearers of the
clothing (for more information about NPEs and NP please
see page 13).
Some of the branded products analysed for this report.
ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ADIDAS NIKE UNIQLO
tx11074 tx11005 tx11027 TX11065
H&M PUMA CONVERSE LI NING
TX11078 tx11015 TX11033 tx11018
LACOSTE G-STAR
tx11056 TX11061
CALVIN KLEIN YOUNGOR CALVIN KLEIN KAPPA
tx11049 tx11039 tx11050 TX11053
14 Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to productsGreenpeace Dirty Laundry 2: Section
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H&M LI NING CALVIN KLEIN YOUNGOR
TX11072 tx11021 tx11048 tx11038
G-STAR NIKE KAPPA RALPH LAUREN
TX11064 tx11028 TX11055 tx11043
PUMA ADIDAS
tx11010 tx11008
RALPH LAUREN ABERCROMBIE & FITCH CONVERSE UNIQLO
tx11045 tx11073 TX11036 TX11068
Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products 15© ALEX STONEMAN / Greenpeace
02
16 Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to productsGreenpeace Dirty Laundry 2: Section
International Hung Out to Dry two
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Discussion of results in
relation to the stances of
2
major clothing brands
Many of the major clothing brands whose Given recognition of the need for cessation of releases of
products were tested in this analysis have NP in the EU, and the different restrictions a number of
countries have imposed on NP and NPEs, it is surprising
public policies restricting the presence of
that none of the brands mentioned in this report require
some hazardous substances in their products. their suppliers to eliminate the use of these chemicals in
Regarding pollution arising from their supply production. This is despite many of the brands having
chain, these policies are often limited to only recognised the hazards of NPEs/NP, and other dangerous
ensuring that suppliers comply with local chemicals, and placing restrictions on their presence in
standards – most of which rarely consider the their products.
discharge of the hazardous and persistent The most effective way to ensure that no hazardous
chemicals highlighted in this report. chemicals are present in clothing products,
while also ensuring there are no releases during
Several brands mentioned in this report regulate the manufacture, is to require the elimination of the use
presence of NPEs/NP and other chemicals in their of hazardous chemicals in production.
products, though so far, only two have committed to
require the elimination of their releases throughout their It is clear that leading clothing brands have not yet
supply chain and products.23, 24 made sufficient efforts to eliminate the use and release
of hazardous chemicals during production or to ensure
At present, none of the brands have established that these chemicals are not present in products sold to
mechanisms for accountability that would require their the consumer. While some brands are now beginning
suppliers to publicly disclose their use or discharge of to engage and show leadership on this issue, most of
hazardous substances. This study provides an opportunity them still lack even a commitment to zero discharge
for the brands to be transparent and publicly reveal where of hazardous chemicals and the accompanying
the products tested have been manufactured and where implementation plan and clear timelines for elimination.
NPEs and NP have been used and released in their supply Given the urgency of the situation, the risk these hazardous
chains. Greenpeace is calling on the brands to work with chemicals pose and the responsibility these global brands
all their suppliers, to disclose and eliminate all releases of have towards their customers and the environment – it is
hazardous chemicals. clear that this needs to change.
One example where the need for elimination and
substitution of hazardous chemicals has been recognised
is by the EU in its chemical management law REACH.25
This constitutes the best system currently in force to
protect the environment and human health against the
various adverse effects resulting from the use of hazardous
chemicals. Yet it is partly due to the fact that REACH has
not been fully implemented, and that it is yet to fully cover
imported products, that there are still loopholes that allow
NP to be released into environment in the EU, for example
via imported items containing residues of NPEs, such
as clothing.
Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products 17:
Lacoste states
not have
“
Abercrombie
& Fitch states: Lacoste does CSR
f
a statement o orts
“
p p
Adidas states
: Sustainability is a policy but su rvation
o n se
is to become global initiative that we crocodile c
ng for over
“
Our strategy projects: “Usi odile as
ons company feel strongly about at
a zero-emissi Abercrombie & Fitch
c
78 years a cro OSTE
L A C
by: and we stand by our a logo, the
environmenta
l supports
- Embedding in everything continued commitment brand actively d by
cte
best practice to environmental projects sele guard or
sa fe
we do sustainability and the GEF to species
rt a in
environmenta
l compliance efforts. protect ce
alligators,
”
- Maximising of crocodile,
ins vials now
efficiency ga Abercrombie & Fitch27
caiman or ga nction
g
and harnessin xti
in danger of e would
- Supporting io n fo r a lo ss
our people’s
pass and whose
e biological
”
greener p la n e t. jeopardise th habitat
”
eir
te26
balance of th
Adidas websi areas.
s kit28
Lacoste pres
18 Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to productsGreenpeace Dirty Laundry 2: Section
International Hung Out to Dry two
Unravelling the toxic
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“
We recognise that
our supply chain
processes impact
the environment.
While we do not
have direct control H&M states:
“
over our suppliers,
vendors and service We apply the
providers, we [...] seek precautionary
ur
to have our suppliers principle in o ork
m e n t w
environ
and vendors meet a d o pted a
and have
our environmental approach
requirements with preventative ution of
it
respect to wastewate with the subst micals.
r o u s c h e
hazard
”
treatment, hazardous
us
chemicals, air quality H&M Conscio
”
inability
and recycling. Actions Susta
30
Phillips-Van Heusen, Report 2010
owners of the
Calvin Klein brand,
Environmental Statem 29
ent
Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products 19© ALEX STONEMAN / Greenpeace
03
20 Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to productsGreenpeace Dirty Laundry 2: Section
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Conclusions and
recommendations
3
Key conclusions • Major clothing brands are making consumers of their
clothing unwitting contributors to increasing levels
• The problem of toxic pollution from textile of hazardous nonylphenol in the environments of
manufacturing is pervasive and extensive countries where the products are sold, including
across producer countries. The textile industry where the parent groups of chemicals (the NPEs) have
is responsible for unknown but potentially been banned. This is because washing will release
significant quantities of hazardous chemicals residual levels of NPEs in clothing into sewage systems,
such as nonylphenol accumulating in the aquatic and ultimately contribute to increasing levels of NP in the
environment. environment. Although the level of NPEs in any given
• Irrespective of statements about corporate responsibility, article of clothing is small, the sheer volume of clothing
the results presented in this study indicate that major being sold and subsequently washed means that the
clothing brands currently do not have adequate total quantities being released may be substantial.
policies, practices or control over their supply • Irrespective of the relatively small number of samples
chains in respect of the use of hazardous included in the analysis, this research highlights that the
chemicals. They must do more to prevent toxic use of hazardous chemicals by the textile industry is a
chemicals from reaching the environment in both widespread and pervasive problem that the international
textile-producing countries and countries where clothing industry is currently not addressing adequately.
their products are sold. The problem is by no means
limited to major brands but these companies have • These findings presented within this study are likely
significant leverage over their suppliers. Major brands to be just the tip of the iceberg, with the problems
also have a special responsibility to ensure that their associated with the release of hazardous chemicals
overall environmental policies and performance are not only limited to NPEs and NPs but a great number
consistent with the brand values they espouse. This is of hazardous substances currently used by the textile
something they are currently failing to achieve. industry.
Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products 21Recommendations Above all, these companies need to act as leaders
and innovators. The problems associated with the use
Toxic pollution has to be dealt with in all countries. and release of hazardous chemicals within the textile
Hazardous chemicals continue to be used and released, industry will not be fixed by severing ties with one or two
contaminating our waterways and threatening our polluting suppliers, or by eliminating one or two hazardous
livelihoods and our future. As influential actors implicated chemicals. The solutions are to be found in working
as part of a broken system, brands have a responsibility together with suppliers to bring about systematic
to act now. change in the way brands and businesses create their
Greenpeace is calling on the brands identified in this products. Such action requires vision, commitment
report to become champions for a toxic-free future by and a desire to improve upon the current approach to
eliminating all releases of hazardous chemicals from chemical management. Every brand and supplier has
their supply chains and their products. Specifically, this the responsibility to know when and where hazardous
entails establishing clear company and supplier policies chemicals are being used and released up and down their
that commit their entire supply chain to shift from the use supply chain and to strive to eliminate them.
of hazardous to safer chemicals, accompanied by a plan of It will therefore be through their actions – not their
action containing clear and realistic timelines. words – that these brands can become genuine
Effective policies to eliminate the use and release of all champions of a toxic-free future and agents of
hazardous chemicals across companies’ entire supply positive change.
chains should be based on a precautionary approach
to chemicals management, and account for the whole
product lifecycle and releases from all pathways. The time to act is now.
To be credible, these policies need to be accompanied www.greenpeace.org/detox
by a plan of implementation, containing clear timelines
and recognising the need for mechanisms for disclosure
and transparent chemicals management, based on the
right-to-know principle31. Steps, such as knowing which
hazardous chemicals their suppliers use and release, being
transparent and accountable by making this data publicly
available, and prioritising the more hazardous chemicals for
immediate elimination are fundamental to demonstrating
real and substantial action in the shift towards championing
a toxic-free future.
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Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products 23Appendix 1
78 products tested from 15 brands.
52 items found above detection limit. (NPEs; mg/Kg)
Reference NPEs Sample Country, City, Country of Kind of
(mg/kg) Code purchase purchase manufacture product
Abercrombie & Fitch 1100 TX11073 Japan Tokyo China Jeans shorts
Abercrombie & Fitch 39 TX11074 Denmark Copenhagen China T-shirt
Abercrombie & Fitch 18 TX11075 UK London Cambodia T-shirt
Adidas 18 TX11003 Thailand Bangkok Thailand Polo shirt
Adidas 14 TX11005 Norway Oslo China Dress
Adidas 2.0 TX11008 Italy Rome Thailand Football shirt
Adidas 1.1 TX11077 Switzerland Berne Philippines Tracksuit trousers
AdidasGreenpeace Dirty Laundry 2: Appendix
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The articles indicated by this colour bore
a plastisol print of an image, logo or text.
For these articles, this was this section
that was removed and extracted.
Reference NPEs Sample Country, City, Country of Kind of
(mg/kg) Code purchase purchase manufacture product
KappaAppendix 2 78 products tested from 15 brands manufactured in 13 countries. 52 items found above detection limit. (NPEs; mg/Kg) Country of NPEs Brand Country of NPEs Brand manufacture (mg/kg) manufacture (mg/kg) Bangladesh 41 G-Star RAW 190 Youngor (8 out of 11) 13 G-Star RAW 19 Youngor
© ALEX STONEMAN / Greenpeace Greenpeace Dirty Laundry 2: Section
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28 Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to productsGreenpeace Dirty Laundry 2: Appendix
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Appendix 3
78 products tested from 15 brands purchased in 18 countries.
52 items found above detection limit. (NPEs; mg/Kg)
Country of NPEs Brand Country of NPEs Brand
purchase (mg/kg) purchase (mg/kg)
Argentina 29 Calvin KleinReferences
1 Jobling S, Reynolds T, White R, Parker MG & Sumpter JP (1995). A Environment of the North-East Atlantic, OSPAR Commission, London: 1 p.
variety of environmentally persistent chemicals, including some phthalate OSPAR (1998). OSPAR Strategy with Regard to Hazardous Substances,
plasticisers, are weakly estrogenic. Environmental Health Perspectives OSPAR Convention for the Protection of the Marine Environment of the
103(6): 582-587; Jobling S, Sheahan D, Osborne JA, Matthiessen P North-East Atlantic, OSPAR 98/14/1 Annex 34: EU (2001). Decision No
& Sumpter JP (1996). Inhibition of testicular growth in rainbow trout 2455/2001/EC Of The European Parliament And Of The Council Of 20
(Oncorhynchus mykiss) exposed to estrogenic alkylphenolic chemicals. November 2001 Establishing The List Of Priority Substances In The Field Of
Environmental Toxicology and Chemistry 15(2): 194-202 Water Policy And Amending Directive 2000/60/EC, Official Journal L 249 ,
17/09/2002: 27-30
2 All communications concerning Calvin Klein products have been
conducted with Philips van Heusen Corporation, the owners of the Calvin 15 OSPAR (2004) op cit.
Klein brand. The four Calvin Klein products tested in this report are licensed
by PVH to Warnaco. 16 Jobling et al (1995) op cit; Jobling et al (1996) op cit.
3 Clothing was purchased in 18 countries: Argentina, Austria, China, the 17 OSPAR (2004) op cit.
Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, Germany, Italy, Japan, the Netherlands, 18 Lopez-Espinosa MJ, Freire C, Arrebola JP, Navea N, Taoufiki J,
Norway, the Philippines, Russia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Thailand and Fernandez MF, Ballesteros O, Prada R & Olea N (2009). Nonylphenol and
the UK. octylphenol in adipose tissue of women in Southern Spain. Chemosphere
4 Clothing was manufactured in 13 countries: Bangladesh, Cambodia, 76(6): 847-852
China, Egypt, Indonesia, Malaysia, Pakistan, Philippines, Sri Lanka, 19 OSPAR (1998). OSPAR Strategy with Regard to Hazardous Substances,
Thailand, Tunisia, Turkey and Vietnam. Three items of were of an unknown OSPAR Convention for the Protection of the Marine Environment of the
country of manufacture. North-East Atlantic, OSPAR 98/14/1 Annex 34
5 EU (2003). Directive 2003/53/EC of the European Parliament and of the 20 EU (2001) op cit.
Council of 18 June 2003, amending for the 26th time Council Directive
76/769/EEC relating to restrictions on the marketing and use of certain 21 EU (2003) op cit.
dangerous substances and preparations (nonylphenol, nonylphenol
ethoxylate and cement), now entry number 46 of annex 17 of COMMISSION 22 MEP (2011). List of Toxic Chemicals Severely Restricted for Import and
REGULATION (EC) No 552/2009 of 22 June 2009 amending Regulation Export in China（2011). Ministry of Environmental Protection (MEP), The
(EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council on People’s Republic of China.
the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals http://www.crc-mep.org.cn/news/NEWS_DP.aspx?TitID=267&T0=10000
(REACH) as regards Annex XVII. Official Journal L 164. 26.6.2009: 7-31 &LanguageType=CH&Sub=125
6 Brigden K, Allsop M & Santillo D (2010). Swimming in chemicals. 23 Following the release of the first Dirty Laundry report in July 2011, the
Greenpeace Research Laboratories, GRL-TN 07/2010 available at http:// international sportlifestyle company Puma committed to the elimination of all
www.greenpeace.to/publications/swimming-in-chemicals.pdf releases of hazardous chemicals from throughout its supply chain by 2020,
along with an action plan detailing how it would deliver on this commitment
7 Greenpeace International (2011). Dirty Laundry. Unravelling the corporate to be made publicly available within the following 8 weeks. The commitment
connections to toxic water pollution in China, available at http://www. can be viewed at: http://safe.puma.com/us/en/2011/07/puma-is-
greenpeace.org/dirtylaundryreport committed-to-eliminate-discharges-of-hazardous-chemicals-2/
8 Puma’s commitment is available at http://safe.puma.com/us/en/2011/07/ 24 Nike’s subsequent commitment to zero discharge by 2020 not only adds
puma-is-committed-to-eliminate-discharges-of-hazardous-chemicals-2/ a commitment to action on disclosing its hazardous chemical discharges
to the public but also offers to share its tools with the whole apparel sector,
9 Nike’s commitment is available at http://www.nikebiz.com/media/ seeking to catalyse a sectoral shift, and also supports the goal of systemic
pr/2011/08/17_zero_discharge.html societal change. Nike’s commitment is available at http://www.nikebiz.com/
10 Youngor did not respond to our letter. Greenpeace however, has media/pr/2011/08/17_zero_discharge.html
substantial information that the store where we bought the products from is 25 Regulation No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the
an authorised dealer. Council of 18 December 2006 concerning the Registration, Evaluation,
11 These two stores are in Bangkok and Vienna. They both represented Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH)
themselves as authorised Kappa retailers. To further ensure we had 26 https://afcares.anfcorp.com/anf/intranet/site/afcares/sustainability
purchased and tested legitimate Kappa branded products, Greenpeace
made repeated communications to Kappa’s head office in Turin, Italy. 27 Adidas Group (2011) “Green company”. http://www.adidas-group.com/
However, over several weeks, Kappa neither confirmed nor denied the en/sustainability/Environment/green_company/default.aspx
authenticity of these stores with regards to the Kappa branded products.
28 http://www.hm.com/filearea/corporate/fileobjects/pdf/en/CSR_
12 While a trademark dispute, between Puma AG and the Spanish REPORT2010_PDF_1302846254219.pdf
distributor Estudio 2000, is under litigation, Puma does not recognise
the Madrid Studio 2000 store, where we purchased the Puma branded 29 http://www.lacoste.com/library/download/pdf/LACOSTE_presskit_
products we tested, as a legitimate distribution outlet for its products. en.pdf
Estudio 2000 claims the products currently sold in this store were 30 http://www.pvh.com/pdf/environmental_policy.pdf
manufactured by Puma AG.
31 The ‘right to know’, in the context of workplace and community
13 OSPAR (2004). Nonylphenol/nonylphenol ethoxylates, OSPAR Priority environmental law, is a term commonly used to refer to the legal principle
Substances Series 2001, updated 2004, OSPAR Convention for the (or recognition of this principle) whereby the individual has the right to know
Protection of the Marine Environment of the North-East Atlantic, OSPAR about the environmental hazards - including chemicals - to which they may
Commission, London, ISBN 0-946956-79-0: 20 pp. http://www.ospar.org/ be exposed in their daily life. More specifically, community right-to-know
documents/dbase/publications/p00136_BD%20on%20nonylphenol.pdf aims to allow members of the public greater access to environmental
14 PARCOM (1992). PARCOM Recommendation 92/8 on nonylphenol- information held by companies or public authorities, thereby increasing the
ethoxylates, OSPAR Convention for the Protection of the Marine transparency and accountability of both.
30 Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to productsGreenpeace Dirty Laundry 2:
© ALEX STONEMAN / Greenpeace
International Hung Out to Dry
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©Greenpeace / xxx
Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Out to Dry Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products 31Greenpeace International
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