Full of flavours - Croatian Eno-Gastronomy - Don t fill your life with days, fill your days with life.
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
Croatian Eno-Gastronomy
Full of flavours
Don´t fill your life with days, fill your days with life.
photo by ivo pervan
discover your story at croatia.hr
Croatia Eno-Gastronomy
Introduction
Croatia, Gastronomic Princess of the Mediterranean and Europe 4
The country of culinary diversity 10
Why enjoy Croatia? 12
Regions (Gastronomy, Health, About wine)
List of regions 14
1_Istria 16
2_Kvarner 24
3_Lika_Karlovac 32
4_Dalmatia_Zadar 38
5_Dalmatia_Šibenik 44
6_Dalmatia_Split 50
7_Dalmatia_Dubrovnik 56
8_Slavonia 64
9_Central Croatia 72
10_Zagreb 78
About wine and special subjects
About wine_Croatia – a small country for great wines 86
Olive oils_Benefits of olive oil 88
Water_Water is life 90
Ecological products 92
Information
Basic information about Croatia 94
c ontents
Offices of the Croatian National Tourist Board 95
Acknowledgements 96
4
c roatia, Gastronomic Princess of the Mediterranean Veljko Barbieri and Europe In the mid nineties, during the rescue excavations in Starograd- nonian influences, it condenses a soupy experience of goulash sko Polje (old town field) on the island of Hvar, grape and olive and stews with a special kaleidoscope of vegetables and spices, seeds were found in one of the funeral urns. Researchers specu- and of course wine, without which this unique dish can neither lated that this was a common residue of agricultural crops from be prepared nor enjoyed. The dish can be spiced during cooking the 4th or 3rd century BC as it was thought that both cultures or later adjusted to taste when already seated at the table, with were connected to the arrival of the Greeks and the establish- spices and wine such as Slavonian Traminac or Klikun, indige- ment of their colonies on the eastern coast. The seeds were sent nous red and white noble Riesling from the cellars of the old Sla- to the Research Institute of the Old Culture in Phoenix, Arizona vonian Ilok, Vukovar and Osijek, Đakovo and Vinkovci. If shep- to be carbon tested and the results were a surprise to everyone. herd’s stew and Slavonian wines combine to create a trademark, The seeds of the vines and the olive trees were in fact from the then the best Slavonian culinary product is certainly kulen. This 9th or 8th century BC, that is from the time before the Greek dried sausage with hot pepper, made from the best parts of pork colonisation. They date from the time of the Illyrian rule over meat, is unsurpassed in these parts of the European continent. the island and the Dalmatian coast. So the Illyrians, the war- The sausage is always accompanied by excellent wines. like but disunited lords of our coast, inland and islands, also Osijek, the capital of Slavonia which neighbours Vukovar, and grew grapes and olives back in the ancient times and equally in particular Đakovo and Vinkovci are also the capitals of stews, enjoyed wine and food, which they seasoned with olive oil. Later pork and poultry, especially duck. As they are hugged by the two chronicles tell of great feasts and festivities at the Illyrian kings’ great rivers, the Drava and the Danube, they also offer a menu palaces, which of course continued over the Greek, Hellenis- of fresh water fish, giving them special culinary flair. Fish stews tic period, in the already forgotten Symposion, banquet in Issa, and Catfish perkelt (perkelti can be made with all sorts of meat, Faros, Tragurion, Salons, Epetion, Epidaurus, and Korkyra (then diced and stewed with peppers, onions and potatoes), like Hun- the Greek island of Korčula). The feasts and festivities continued garian ones but more dense and aromatic, are usually followed over a few centuries later when Rome finally gained control of by fish broth, dried fish or fish sausages, while the fried carp, all these areas, expanding its cosmopolitan culture, cultivation probably under the influence of the Ottoman Empire, is served and wine production and bringing its tremendous cuisine based with đuveč – oriental rice with vegetables. When Vinkovci’s on olive oil. So, thanks to the findings in the small ceramic urns horseradish soup arrives on the table first, it is usually followed from Starogradsko fields, our knowledge about the history of by Baranja’s perkelt and the main course, Đakovo’s pork stuffed the Mediterranean culture of crop farming has shifted to the with smoked meat or ham, vegetables and tongue. All the dishes early ancient world. Therefore the question of whether there is have a strong and desirable smell. Finally, a variety of thirty or so a genuine Croatian gastronomy and Croatian oenology, insepa- traditional Slavonian cakes usually served at weddings mark the rably linked with Croatia, is pointless really, because they are end of every major culinary and wine festival. This short menu is both clearly identified as small, but separate parts, sometimes accompanied of course by Eastern and Baranja wines, for many even more clearly recognisable than areas more famous for gas- of which the taste was directly influenced by Hungary, from the tronomy and oenology. It is difficult to find in Europe, on such great vineyards and cellars in Vilanju near Pečuh, or those im- a small territory as today’s Croatia, so pronounced an intermin- mediately along the border in the Hungarian part of Baranja. gling of central and southern European, particularly Mediter- In the western part of Slavonia, this theme builds on the ex- ranean, civilisations and culinary and oenological tradition. It tensive dining experiences of immigrants and natives. So it is would be more than presumptuous to compare Croatian cuisine difficult to deny the roasted poultry filled with quince com- and Croatian wine culture with the cuisine and wine traditions pote, accompanied by red Frankovka or Portugizac, their Ger- of larger nations, but the very diversity and traditions of Croatia man, Austrian and Czech origins. Bean stew and sarma (pickled identify it as a separate gastro entity. cabbage leaves stuffed with minced beef) are of Bosnian and If we tried to follow Croatia’s geographical and cultural traces Turkish origin, while the unique horse sausages and horse meat, by going on a journey through time and tastes, and if we start- which in Italy has disappeared from the menu, come from the ed from the eastern Croatian borders, we would first meet the Apennines. The highlands and hills are rich in small and big Croatian northeast and northwest, their true oenological and game, and there is an abundance of fish from rivers and ponds. gastronomic accents associated with strong cultural influence, The culinary simplicity and elegance distinguishes perch in sour radiating from Western and Central Europe, from the Frankish cream as the finest dish of Western cuisine, followed by carp Empire to the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. Formed in such a and ‘drunk’ carp baked in butter, fat and wine, poured over gastro melting pot, in Eastern Slavonia, the most interesting dish with golden wine from the vineyard. This is a true wine region, is definitely shepherd’s stew. Deriving from Hungarian and Pan- marked by the famous Roman Vallis Aurea or Golden Požega introduction 5
Valley, which extends all the way to the fa- butchers’ guilds of Europe, the body that has mous Kutjevo vineyards and cellars, and the ruled their city for two centuries. hills that surround the very Požega highlands, For them were prepared old Varaždin rajžleci Kamensko and the slopes of Papuk. It seems (an old dish made of veal stomach), pâtés that everything around here evolved around made from livers and poultry, and veal shank and exists because of wine, while the wine in wine and cream, as well as stuffed goose and culinary flagship of Western cuisine is and duck breast in gingerbread dough. In not conceivable without their top varieties, one whole day of feasting, according to the already mentioned Traminac, Riesling, books neatly written by Varaždin’s butcher’s Chardonnay, Cabernet and Šipelj. Every meal guild, back in 1693, these gourmet masters, is followed with a carefully selected wine, cre- about thirty of them, consumed no less than ating a special gastro-oenological circle. one whole calf, four pigs, a dozen pounds of Adjacent to Slavonia are Moslavina, Posavina cooked beef, a few chickens, pigeons, turkeys, and Banovina. Their original cellars ripen geese and ducks, along with a brace of rabbits, Škrlet, Moslavac, Kraljevina, Frankovka and wild birds, lots of sausage, exactly 22 hens, a the whole range of afore-mentioned Euro- few ox tongues on skewers and a bunch of pean white and red wines. The cellars have snails. If you leave out the desserts, it is noted old cauldrons and the area is famous for roast that on this ancient day, a few hundred litres meat platters from these, which are more of wine was drunk, and if the accounts are to ancient than the open-fire baked meat and be trusted, exactly 360 litres, but that is, to sausages in fat, pepper and, of course, wine, tell the truth, an unbelievable amount. adding more recently various vegetables and However, those are extremely delicious and baked beans. Rabbit, poultry and game stew nicely decorated menus depicting palaces are boiled in pans over a fire. Here, geese and and bell-towers of the historical Croatian ducks can be seen roasting on a spit, especial- capital, but also of Međimurje’s capital. ly during St. Martin, when the saint is said to The wine from nearby Međimurje Štrigova come and baptise the young wine. is poured into glasses, the wines gurgle and Podravina is proud of its festive tables, clinking of the goblets full of indigenous which offer marinated meat preserved in Međimurje Pušipel and golden Muškat lard and diced bacon, which connects the blend with aromas and flavours of excellent province with Međimurje, Croatia’s land of and original dishes listed in the famous 17th fairy tales. In the mist rising over its rivers, century cookbook from the palace of the forests, groves, fields and vineyards one can Zrinski family in Čakovec, in which for each listen to a song from enchanted creatures recipe, the original baroque culinary experi- from Međimurje’s mythology. The creatures ence is explained. The dishes were cooked sneak through the flavours of ducks and geese in the kitchens of this powerful family and roasted in their own fat, meat from tiblica (a relied equally on European influences, espe- bowl characteristic of the Međimurje region cially those from Italy, Hungary and Austria, used to prepare meat dishes) and pork in sour Germany, Portugal and even Spain. cream, wine and mushrooms, fish from the Zagorje, Zagreb’s entrance hall, scattered Drava and Mura rivers, especially the famous villages spread over hills is home to baked trout in red wine, which along with a dozen and fried chicken, turkey with dumplings, kinds of Međimurje pastry, swell on the ta- strong flavoured soups made with poultry bles looking like stuffed dwarfs. Everyone is and mushrooms, venison in wine sauces, seated or lying on tables, and next to them cooked smoked meat served with a stew of pushing through come the gourmets and beans and pumpkin, sauerkraut and net- drunkards of old from Čakovec, town of the tle soup, which accompanied the famous Zrinski family and Varaždin, a Baroque cen- garlic sausage and black pudding, sausage tre of northern Croatia, an urban centre and seasoned with garlic and blood. It is also the former Croatian capital. They are proud an ancient oenological area whose exquisite members of one of the most famous baroque varieties such as Riesling, Graševina (a sort 6
of Riesling), Traminac and Šipon inspire From here, from nearby Lika and Gorski
with a fresh dry taste. Zagorje’s pork ten- Kotar region, a whole food and wine world
derloin with dried plums marinated in im- emanates and it seemed that it lived as an an-
ported Chardonnay – a recipe recorded in cient legend hidden in the ancient forests, the
16th century gourmet menus – is a bridge purest Croatian riverbeds and old fortresses
to the menus of the Croatian capital of Za- and cities. The entire area is dominated by
greb. the city of Karlovac, a military center of
Old Agram (an old historic restaurant in the Krajina streching from Ozalj to Rijeka and
green part of Zagreb serving local food and the Croatian Primorje coast, whose kitchen
good wine) is a respected cultural and ur- breathes originality, not only from Austro-
ban representative of Central Europe. From Hungarian influences but also the influences
its kitchens and wine cellars the tradition of those in Samobor that were left behind by
emerges at every step. The palate and taste of Napoleon’s soldiers with their town as well as
Zagreb reflect revised Austro-Hungarian flair, rural menus from simple egg and flour soups,
but they also reflect centuries long cultural thick soup with mushrooms and meat soup,
and oenological experience from Zagorje and Dugoreška’s dish, roasted and cooked meat,
closer Turopolje which normally protects the shank, breast and ham, traditional rabbit
province from the centre, cities like Zagreb in sauce with cloves. They are followed by
from its former metropolises such as Vienna. dishes from a rich fish menu, because this is
Of course it is not surprising to anyone that an area bordered by the clearest Croatian riv-
Zagreb’s tables are full of minced or fried and ers Kupa, Retina, Korana and Dobra, mainly
breaded meat steaks, preceded by the famous inhabited with pike and perch, catfish and
Zagreb’s ajngemahtes, soup with poultry or carp. There are also porridge and vegetable
veal with root vegetables and peas, and finally stews or beans, fungi, mainly highly prized
Provincial Cordon Bleu, veal, pretentiously mushrooms such as vrganj and lisičke, home-
stuffed with ham and cheese. It is as if Zagreb made noodles in imaginative sauces, pies,
wants to emphasize the superiority of its pro- bazlamača (a simple cake made of corn flour,
vincialism, as it is really more interesting than eggs, cottage cheese and cream, typical of Za-
its culinary Viennese model. A special place gorje and Međimurje), kuglof and cakes.
is dedicated to agramerski ričet made of beans Across the boundaries of Gorski Kotar and
and barley with smoked meat and veal soup, the Ogulin part of Lika, there with Ogulin
refined foods and pâtés made of poultry and at its centre famous for its array of home-
game, and with them good old tenderloin made breads, smisovnica (a type of multigrain
in wine, and at the feast’s end- the original bread), bread with onions and dry meat spe-
Zagreb cherry strudel, which was adopted by cialties from deer and bear, various kinds of
Viennese cuisine too. meat with Ogulin’s renowned cabbage and
Roasted young boar out of the oven, also vegetables and game dishes from nearby
bathed in wine, and cooked ox tails with Josipdol: deer, venison, boar, rabbit, pheas-
homemade Samobor mustard, as well as fa- ant, quail and snipe, Lika’s roasted lamb and
mous organic chicken dishes, lead us to an- baked potatoes under the bell, as well as an
other baroque Croatian capital, the old town excellent selection of cheeses such as indig-
of knights – Samobor. Known for its excellent enous Tounj’s cheese (smoked cheese from
meat menus in which along with the dishes Tounj, Lika) and škripavac (a type of haloumi
already mentioned there is a proud smell of cheese) and mature cheese spreads, served
grilled pork and grilled pork chops, then old with a cornflour bread or bread baked from
Samobor catfish soup with cream and white the flour of seven different grains ...
wine, stuffed breast of veal and shank from However, this is just a list of various foods
the oven, the strudels and pastry, especially from the area and they are followed by an
cream cake (kremšnita), served with dessert army of cakes that wake up the taste buds,
wine, Samobor Bermet and wines from near- while this gastronomic power is accompanied
by Žumberak and its vineyards. by the honour guard of wines from Vivod-
introduction 7
insko, Ozalj, Ogulin, Duga Resa, Draganići All this along with the inevitable asparagus in with Raina’s Riesling, Muscatel, Traminer, Spring, with Autumn chestnuts and truffles, Chardonnay, Franconia, and the especially particularly the white ones, strong-smelling celebrated ice harvested wines, an oenological and with a distinct taste, like the Istrian cui- tradition. sine itself, which has managed to turn all With those highlighted ancient highland those imported techniques and know-how dishes and wines nowhere else in Croatia into its own culinary expression. Istrian cu- does one get the feeling that time has stood linary expression is not only felt in Liburnia, still than in the regions of Istria and Dalma- an area at the foot of Učka, in its dishes fla- tia. These two regions stand out as special voured with Spring and Summer asparagus features of Croatia, the authentic life and and cherries, with famous Autumn chestnuts gastronomic ambience which have admit- from Lovran, but also on the islands of Cres, tedly drawn their inspiration from their ex- Lošinj and Rab, whose soil also contains the emplars especially Venice, but they knew how seeds of ancient varieties, notably the original to build on them with the strength of their žlahtina (an authentic Croatian white wine). own culinary knowledge and experience. We This, in parallel embraces the individual civi- can begin with Istrian minestrone and jotas, lization, oenological and gastronomic tradi- thick soups made of dried/smoked meat and tions which are based on lamb and goat, beans, Istrian žgvaceti with venison or lamb while the deep sea whispers tales of big crabs, (a pasta dish with meat stew), various sauces clams and fish. from famous Istrian truffles and asparagus, But, if on the journey through time and which are poured over Istrian fuži (homemade tastes, we try to come up with the menu that pasta) and pljukanci (homemade tortellini), consists of a complex series of passages of very similar to old medieval macaroni, or to time, then it is best to look for it in Dalma- season fine risottos. tia. In Dalmatia, one can still feel the dawn Pazin’s famous roasted turkeys with sour ap- of civilization from which the Mediterrane- ples are baked in the oven, and along with an cuisine originates. Its cuisine is so gentle pears and fruit, sausages and smoked pork and classically basic, refined, but sometimes loin on gradele (a type of grill used along the old fashioned in the modern culinary sense, Croatian coast for grilling meat, mainly fish), as a mirror of the old Mediterranean. Fish, along with fish, clams and big crabs in risot- shellfish and crabs of all kinds, prepared in tos with truffles, sophisticated lešade (a tra- various ways: baked, boiled in marinades ditional light meal consisting of cooked fish – na buzare (cooked in wine in seashells)- served with boiled vegetables and fish soup) which all derive from Dalmatia or cooked and brujeti (fish cooked in wine) in which the in the famous Dalmatian brujeti, seemingly taste of wine and olive oil permeate as gifts similar to the Venetian broéti and Provencal of the Istrian soil, with mixed fish and crabs bouillabaisses. Followed by vegetables dish- from Istrian waters. These products of sea and es, often mixed beans like French cassoulet land, along the banks of their coastal towns or and preparations made from cabbage, lamb at the foot of their hills and mountains over and goat meat, giblets or ancient pirjanci ( a which guard famous Istrian castles, are served type of meat stew) such as famous pašticada, in various šugovi (juices or sauces made of to- in its composition of ancient and Byzantine mato or seafood) dominated by the famous origin, but with a strong Dalmatian empha- Greek Malvasia imported by the Venetians, sis. but which in Istria has surpassed its role mod- Culinary courtesy is included that province els. In addition to imported Merlot, there is in the Mediterranean culinary kaleidoscope also the indigenous red Istrian Teran with made up of ancient sea urchins and raw fish, a bitter and strong taste and fragrant color roast from under metal or ceramic bells, from which the famous Istrian Teran soup, unique bread cakes filled with salted fish from seasoned with cloves and served with toasted the island of Vis in which it is easy to rec- bread, is made. ognize its ancient Greek origin. Here we dis- 8
cover the ability of inheritance – in Neolithic (meatballs) of mutton are baked, while in lamb tripe, classical tripe and Brač vitalac (a the inland the Sinj’s arambašići, a domes- tripe type of food made on the island of Brač), tic version of the Turkish-Bosnian sarma goat or lamb meat and giblets on the spit, and compete with its Ottoman model. Then the good old tinguli with venison and poultry, original Dalmatian inland varieties such as also from Apennine roots, various seafood white Zlatarica and honey or red Trnka are casseroles like Hvar’s broth, which even in its served on a table. On the islands the famous own name reveals links with Greece, continu- cheeses, such as Pag’s and Silba’s and young ing the long tradition of Hellenic and Byzan- sheep’s and goat’s cheeses, accompany al- tine presence. Since olden times the fish in mond and carob cakes, ravioli, fritters and Dalmatia is roasted on a grill or a spit, like cheese pies, Carnival cakes which arrived sardines on the islands, while octopus tenta- in the area with a carnival from Venice and cles, cuttlefish and squid are filled with their were embodied within the strong local tradi- own flesh, sometimes pieces of shrimps or tion. pršut (prosciutto) – the best smoked ham of In the cuisine of the Dubrovnik Republic the Mediterranean. Dried fish and salted fish, the biggest impression on travellers left a was exported for centuries, but also prepared green pasta of kale, cabbage and kaštradina, for festive occasions in dishes similar to today’s pasta Ragusei dei Verdi, as they were called codfish bakalar (a cod fish). But, Venice has by the Apennine’s gastronomes, then clams also enjoyed the Dalmatian kaštradina, dried and oysters from Mali Ston Bay, which also mutton or goat meat with Dalmatian cab- celebrated this small southeastern state and bage. Castrati dalmati (Dalmatian kaštradina) its cuisine. These are only small fragments and Cavoli dalmati (Dalmatian cabbage) were of the great courses illustrated by rožate and equally valued as were tongues cooked with renaissance pepper biscuits with honey and cloves and coriander, and above all, the pots ammonia or, in the culinary world, a famous of beans and cabbage already mentioned, cake Makarana made of almonds, eggs and which along with many other native foods the famous Maraschino liqueur, which in- have outgrown their culinary horizon. spired even Giacomo Casanova in his amo- According to historians, the emperor Dio- rous adventures, or at his writing desk. cletian himself before his death cultivated As a final fragment of one never completed cabbage in the vicinity of the palace in Split, menu, created in a split between epochs, renaissance gastronomes like Platin and which, from dish to dish, from wine to Scappi praised Dalmatian game in wine, ol- wine, married the gastronomy of Croatia ive oil, lemon and rosemary. In the deltas of and Croatian oenology. Dalmatian rivers the brujeti of eels and frogs Sometimes the main idea about the Croatian are cooked, they are followed by crayfish in cultural, oenological and gastronomic re- mint and tomatoes salsa. In the Spring, off gions may have been misunderstood, es- the Dalmatian tables glide snails in hot pep- pecially after close examination of Balkan per sauce, asparagus and artichokes prepared culinary habits. However, the gastronomic in dozens of ways smelling nicely in pots and variety of dishes and menus, native and im- pans. Dalmatia is a land of mountain and is- ported wine varieties, similarities and dif- land lamb and goat, veal, pork and smoked ferences, influences and originality, slowly meat, of which the traditional roasting and started to merge in the same way that spices lešade with salsa, capers and coarse salt are and ingredients match in good food, food prepared. with wine, and the region and its history During harvesting of the famous native wine combine in the original flavors and odors. varieties such as Plavac Mali – decisive and Such a menu and wine list which reflect dominant wine of Croatia, as well indig- our common heritage, Croatian cuisine and enous as Kaštela’s Crljenka and Primošten’s Croatian oenology offer a small but distinct Babić, Šibenik’s Debit, islands’ Pošip, Parča, and valuable opportunity for study and dis- Bogdanuša, Vugava or Maraština, polpete covery of the Mediterranean and Europe. introduction 9
g astronomy
The country of culinary diversity Željko Žutelija
In Europe it is hard to find a country in which, in such a small oils in the world, Pag’s cheese, Slavonian kulen (hot sausage), Is-
area, so much diversity exists as in Croatia. Its geographically trian Boškarin (less known type of beef originating from Istria),
curved shape, like a horseshoe, demonstrates many distinc- truffles and asparagus, Dalmatian chard, arugula, artichokes,
tions and peculiarities that distinguish the north-western re- broad beans, mišancija (Dalmatian mixed herbs) and other
gion, belonging to Central Europe, from the southern, more types of vegetables, smoked ham and bacon from the Dalmatian
Mediterranean area. Both areas are linked with modern high- hinterland, naturally bred Zagorje turkey, rich wildlife and wild
ways enabling travel between them of just a few hours. berries, potatoes from Lika and Međimurje’s cabbage, rarities
The historical turbulence, geographic and climatic features, like butarge (salted and dried fish roe, a rare and precious delicacy),
diversity of cultural heritage, the details of original traditions, dried fish eggs, or dried tabinja (a rare fish) which many con-
customs and habits, the varied characteristics of rural and ur- sider more tasty than dried cod – these are the ingredients on
ban localities, all contribute to the wealth of Croatia’s culinary which the best Croatian gastronomy is based and which, thanks
diversity. But in this relatively small area, these differences are to tourism, has become well known in Europe and worldwide.
often very strongly intertwined, often to the extent that the The development of gastronomy has been strongly supported
original cuisine is unrecognisable and subject to influence and by tourism development, and the partnership of these two dis-
cross-fertilisation from one region to another, from rural to ciplines influenced the re-appraisal of the gastronomy and wine
urban and from traditional to a new contemporary context. culture and its adaptation to modern conditions and needs.
The gastronomic culture of Croatia is undoubtedly one of the Our long neglected cuisine has finally become a treasured and
most interesting and richest in Europe, primarily because it properly valued occupation, and more and more young and
unites the richness of Central European, Mediterranean and educated people get drawn to catering, hospitality, agricul-
Eastern cuisine, but also because it is based on an extremely ture, fisheries, orchards and vineyards. They are conscious that
healthy food. Refined European gastronomy connoisseurs will this is a potentially lucrative part of the Croatian economy in
recognize on the plates of the Croatian cuisine achievements of which demand is on an upward curve.
the former rulers of its regions, fromVienna to Istanbul and Ven-
ice, but also a precious legacy of people’s cuisine, developed in Precious heritage
conjunction with the modest possibilities of individual regions. As in a theatre of the absurd, many historical misfortunes on
Croatian soil in modern conditions turned into a national cu-
Essentiality and originality linary advantage. When the conquerors of its regions in the
Regardless of whether it is anchovy, which is considered a changed historical and social circumstances retreated, they left
food resource of Dalmatia, livestock on the Dalmatian islands behind a valuable gastronomic culture, which today, we have
and inland, wildlife in the mountain and the lowland part as a legacy. When, due to the political and social climate, we
of Croatia or forest fruits in the woodlands of the country, were not developing as fast as today’s highly developed Eu-
Croatia’s gastro culture has always been developed in harmo- ropean countries, our regions, for a variety of reasons, were
ny with the climate of the region and, of course, the mate- spared from ecological disruption and pollution, inevitable ac-
rial wealth of the population. The necessity and originality of companiments of rapid development, which in turn promoted
many regional people’s cuisines today, in modern conditions, the production of healthy food.
are one of the strongest assets of the national cuisine. Croatia A country that is capable of offering on the same menu grilled
has turned its ecological preservedness into an unforeseen cu- dishes with an oriental tradition of preparation, sea fantasy
linary advantage. dishes which summarize the best Mediterranean ways of pre-
Croatia is a country of healthy food, originating mainly from paring seafood and imaginative pasta as well as Wiener schnit-
the greenery of naturally preserved landscapes untouched by zel and strudel along with many irresistible folk dishes of in-
the harmful effects of excessive industrialization. Because of digenous origin – such a country does not have to worry about
that, many Croatian culinary delights are unique in Europe its culinary future.
and the rest of the world. The anticipated development of tourism is an additional ac-
celerator for widespread recognition of Croatian gastronomy
Culinary rarities and of one of the most attractive European cuisines, all accom-
Mali Ston’s oysters Ostrea edulis, islands’ lamb, a wealth of fresh- panied by a growing range of premium wines which follow the
water and marine fish, shellfish and crabs, one of the best olive development of Croatian gastronomic culture.
10gastronomy 11
f or health
Why do you
enjoy Croatian
gastronomy? Olja Martinić
The geographical position of Croatia has determined its tra-
ditional cuisine. The Mediterranean diet with the domination
of high-quality olive oil is a form of diet that the indigenous
population, but also numerous guests prefer. The long tradi-
tion of tourism in Croatia spontaneously led to achieving high
standards when it comes to the truth and quality of food; and
culinary culture is the greatest ally of all those who for what-
ever reason, choose Croatia for their holiday.
Croatian gastronomic culture is a kind of collage that along
with a primarily Mediterranean diet has elements of Eastern
cuisine and very recognizable elements of the cuisine from the
central, so-called continental Europe.
A rich variety of domestic products and a wide range of tra-
ditional dishes have stubbornly resisted modernization and
stereotyped patterns of eating, which led to the preservation
of the methods of food preparation that do not degrade the
nutritional ingredients in food. But, that’s not all.
The coast, which stretches over 6000 kilometres, is a natural
salt room and everyone, who spends their holidays on the Adri-
atic, really enjoys a sort of salt therapy or halotherapy. Posolica
(sea salt deposits) generated by the winds colliding with the
sea surface and driven by the same wind disperses over the
coastal zone and affects the soil composition and the chemi-
cal components of the flora and fauna. If we add to this the
diet based on local produce and seafood, you are guaranteed
to have the perfect holiday with balanced meals of highly nu-
tritional properties.
On the other hand, continental Croatia is full of rivers and
lakes and the perfect destination for those who want to be
surrounded by nature. It cultivates a large number of crops
that represent a rich diet in culinary and nutritional terms.
The richness of the soil, abundant water supplies and optimum
climate are the reason why farming is based on tradition with
very little technological innovations.
12for health 13
1 istria
virgin olive oil, truffles,
smoked Istrian ham, boškarin
meat (meat of indigenous
Istrian cattle), wild
asparagus, goat and sheep
cheese, homemade pasta
(fuži, pljukanci), maneštra (thick
vegetable soup), a variety of central 9
game dishes, pork loin and
sausages with sauerkraut, croatia
stew with dumplings, seafood turkey with dumplings
– fish (sole!), crustaceans (mlinci), free range
(crabs!) and shellfish from chicken, rooster or baby
the Lim canal, Labin’s krafi, chicken, home-cooked
wines Malvasia and Teran ... ham, chops, pork neck
and pork loin, beans
dalmatia 6 split with turnips, sauerkraut
plenty of fish from the sea, broth, with smoked meat, black
k va r n e r 2 lamb, beef stew with dumplings, Sinj’s pudding with potatoes
and sauerkraut, cabbage
famous Kvarner shrimp – raw, arambašići, frogs legs, ham and bacon,
soparnik, olive oils, vitalac (a traditional rolls (sarma), cabbage
briefly baked, na gradele (on the with square pasta, beans
grill),in a stew, added to risotto dish from the isle of Brač, made of
either goat’s or lamb’s innards), lamb with cabbage, creamy
or pasta, islands’ lamb, goat and pumpkin soup, cheese
sheep cheeses, šurlice (home- tripe, goat, citrus fruits, artichokes
with broad beans, Vis bread, fritters and sour cream, cornflour
made pasta with eggs), mineštra, bread, Međimurje pie,
deer, frogs, snails, dormice, wild and kroštule, cherries, jujubes, figs,
carob, Imotski’s cake, Vis hib (minced wines: Riesling, Pinot
berries and an abundance of Noir, Moslavac Škrlet ...
edible mushrooms, strudels and meat made of figs, brandy and
cakes, fritters and kroštule (Angel aromatic herbs usually served on
wings), Rab’s cake, Lovran’s special occasions), varenik (delicacies
chestnuts, Vrbnik’s žlahtina made with grape must), wines: Mali
(wine) ... Plavac, Dobričić’s Pošip, Vugava and
Bogdanuša ...
lika 3 k a r l ova c
river (trout) and sea fish, well known
Lika potatoes, basa, catfish and škripavac
cheese (similar to haloumi), smoked
cheese, sauerkraut with meat (dried
or fresh) and sausages, lamb, venison,
mushrooms, berries (blueberries, wild
raspberries, blackberries) apples, pears,
prunes and nuts, local honey, donuts, Lika
dalmat i a 4 z a da r plum brandy, Gegić wine ...
Pag’s cheese and lamb, broad
beans and artichokes, Swiss dalmatia 7 dubrovnik zagreb 10
chard, arugula, zucchini, Ston’s oysters, butarga, squash, on Zagreb’s table you can find food
cauliflower, broccoli, vegetables from Konavle fields and from Mediterranean, Slavonia,
tomatoes and all the rest Neretva river delta, olive oil, green Zagorje, Prigorje, but also from
from Zadar’s hinterland, menestra, macaroni with meat sauce, neighbouring countries: beef or
islands’ olive oil, oily and fish, lobsters, shrimps or prawns, veal soup with homemade noodles,
white fish, grilled fish, boiled Žrnovski’s macaroni, eels, frogs, ajngemahtes (Croatian chicken
fish or in a stew, marinated tangerines, birds such as coots, chowder), stews of cabbage and
and salted oily fish, sardines arancini, flan, kotonjata, mantala, leeks, ričet (barley porridge boiled
and tuna, prosciutto, Nin’s Prošek (Croatian dessert wine), wines: with beans), broach, fried chicken,
pork, Maraschino and cherry Plavac Mali, Pošip, Malvasija from stuffed peppers, sarma (minced meat
maraska, wines: Debit and Dubrovnik, Grk and Maraština ... rolls wrapped in sour cabbage leafs),
Maraština ... pig tripe, beans with sausages, lamb’s
lettuce, beetroot, Samobor’s cream
cake, poppy cakes, sweet rolls, wines:
Kraljevina and Portugizac ...
dalmatia 5 šibenik
white and oily fish (anchovy,
mackerel and tuna), shellfish
(lobster), mussels (scallops),
8 slavonia
freshwater fish (carp, perch, catfish),
Miljevac’s ham, bacon, and various
kulen (sausage), kulen’s seka sausage,
kinds of sausages, excellent cheese
homemade sausages, bacon, crackling,
from mišina (traditional cheese
geese and ducks, deer, various species
making methodology of this region),
of mushrooms, fruit and vegetables, red
bread (kruh ispod peke), lamb and
peppers, salenjaci (traditional Slavonian
kaštradina with cabbage, beef stew
cookies made with pork fat), walnut
with homemade gnocchi, soparnik
cake, poppy seed cake, various types
(mangold pie), beans, pasta, veal,
of cakes, gingerbread, honey cakes,
turkey and rooster in the oven
medvjeđe šape (bear paw shaped cookies),
(krušna peć – bread oven), olive oils,
vanilla cookies and peaches, plum
grapes and herbal brandy, wines:
brandy, wines: Riesling, Traminac and
Babić, Maraština and Debit ...
Frankovka ...
1410
1 istria zagreb
kvarner central
2
croatia
ČAKOVEC 9
VARAŽDIN
KOPRIVNICA
KRAPINA
BJELOVAR
VIROVITICA
ZAGREB
OSIJEK
RIJEKA
PAZIN KARLOVAC POŽEGA
SISAK
SLAVONSKI VUKOVAR
BROD
PULA
GOSPIĆ 8
slavonia
3
5
lika ZADAR
karlovac
š i b ednailkm a t i a
ŠIBENIK
SPLIT
dalmatia
zadar
4
6 DUBROVNIK
d a ls m
p lai tt i a
d u b r o vdnailkm a t i a
7
15Istria is a land
of wine, olives,
truffles and
welcoming hosts
1
istria1 From a terra incognita, Istria was transformed into
the Promised Land in a very short period of time. It became
the leader of regional development and an example of
gastronomic and oenological achievements, becoming a role
model for many other areas in Croatia. How did the unknown
develop into the Promised Land?
In Mediterranean, but also wider Euro-
pean relations, Istria is branded as the area
of wines, olives and truffles, superior gas-
tronomy, developed wine culture, authentic
model of agritourism and traditionally suc-
cessful coastal tourism in towns such as Pula,
Rovinj, Poreč, Umag, Novigrad and many
smaller places. How did Istria transform
into a region of very attractive living and a
growing economy, recently becoming popu-
lated not only by people from other parts of
Croatia, but a growing number of foreigners,
too?
It turned its least populated and somewhat
forgotten, and green countryside of Istria,
into its strongest and most go-ahead natu-
ral resource. The essence of the development
philosophy of this region and Istria’s future
is based on it. The initiators of the strate-
gic development of Istria were the first to
realise that the inner part of this peninsula
represents the hidden treasure yet to be dis-
covered. They figured out that the successful
development of coastal tourism will largely
Did you know? depend on reviving the neglected parts of
Central Istria.
A white truffle (Tuber Many old olive groves and vineyards were
magnatum Pico), of 1.31 kg, restored. Large areas of deserted land were
found by Giancarlo Zigante
planted with young olives and vines, fruits
in the River Mirna valley on
the 2nd November 1999,
and vegetables. The inhabitants recognised the
is recorded in the Guinness value and potential of this extremely fertile red
Book of World Records. It Istrian soil and a high quality base for devel-
was 19.5 cm long, 12.4 cm opment of contemporary agriculture was soon
wide and 13.5 cm high. It developed. Focusing mainly on olive produc-
was eaten at the Marino tion and wine growing, it led the revival of the
wine cellar at Kremenje, at
gastronomic and oenological scene.
a gala dinner held on the
12th November 1999.
Small family-run wine cellars and taverns
revitalised traditional recipes, and the Moto-
vun Forest with its Mirna River and black
and white truffles became one of the most
17visited and famous forests in Europe. The elite gastronomic ditions and they now provide visitors with superior comfort
offer now includes seasonal specialities: meat of boškarin, while offering authentic food, faithfully reflecting the identity
indigenous Istrian cattle weighing up to one ton, and wild of this region and its rich gastronomic heritage.
asparagus. Country farms and restaurants offer Istrian pro- The gastronomy was developed on the foundations of centu-
scuitto of extraordinary quality, home- made sheep and goat ries-old tradition, modernised with new recipes and imagina-
cheese, home-grown eggs, home-made pasta, traditional pick- tive combinations featuring both Mediterranean and Central
led foods, honey, vegetables grown in village gardens, various European cuisines.
venison dishes, pork cutlets (ombolo or zarebnjak) and sausages Istrian olive oils win most prizes in all important world festi-
with pickled cabbage, žgvacet (stew or moussaka) with gnoc- vals and competitions, while Istrian wines receive high marks
chi, veal prepared under čripnja (steel or clay dish), Istrian red from world-renowned wine experts and critics in respected
wine soup with olive oil, salt, pepper and toasted bread, crabs professional wine journals.
from the Pula local waters served with salad, sweet ravioli à la Wine and olive trails give impressive insights into the regional
Labin, tea cakes (cukerančići), etc. wealth, while festivals (such as Vinistra in Poreč, Open Days
Istrian estates (stancije) were reconstructed, preserving the for visitors all over Istria and Days of Olive Oils in Vodnjan)
authentic architectural characteristics of ancient building tra- give a strong incentive for faster and more quality development
18The former flight of the population from
the countryside turned into an emigration
exodus, has now changed into a mass and
ongoing return. First-class olive-growers,
wine makers, winegrowers, oenologists and
caterers, are becoming valued entrepreneurs.
Small family-owned hotels win the highest
awards in the hotel industry category on a
regular basis. Refurbished estates are being
equipped for the highest standard of tour-
ism. The white truffle (Tuber magnatum),
found in the Motovun Forest, entered the
Guinness Book of World Records, as a rar-
ity, being the largest, precious tuber ever
found in the World (1.31 kg). Goat cheeses
from the Kumparička estate stand shoulder
to shoulder with world renowned cheese
products. Oysters and mussels from the Lim
Channel will impress discerning gourmets.
If we combine the Istrian gastronomic and
oenological features with the beauty of the
almost untouched countryside of the penin-
sula, its coast and islands, and in particular,
the Briuni National Park and Učka Park
of Nature, it becomes obvious that Istria
presents one of the most attractive Euro-
pean regions. It moves away from the idea
of terra incognita, coming closer to being
a land of truffles, wines, olives and help-
ful, warm hosts, who will proudly offer the
wealth of the Istrian soil and traditional
heritage to their guests. On the other hand,
Istrian restaurants, most of which preserved
the romantic atmosphere of the old taverns,
compete in the quality and diversity of their
offer. Some of them match the high achieve-
ments of the European catering industry.
The most popular of them are the Giannino,
San Rocco, Monte, Milan, Blu, Pepenero,
Morgan, Batelina and Vodnjanka.
By many of its geographical features, Istria
will remind you of Provence or Tuscany.
Culture in the revived Istrian towns, such as
Motovun, Grožnjan, Buzet, Grimalda and
Svetvinčenat, contributed to the popularisa-
tion of Istria as an unmissable cultural desti-
nation. The shows at the Ulysses Theatre in
Brijuni, film festivals in Pula and Motovun,
summer concerts in Grožnjan and the Am-
phitheatre in Pula are internationally recog-
nised cultural events, positioning Istria on
the cultural map of Europe.
of wine-growing, wine production and ol- Istrian gastronomy offers a wide palette of the
However, the majority of visitors are de-
ive growing. Malvasia became a wine trade most diverse delicacies; from fuži with truf-
lighted with Istria because of its wine, olives
mark of Istria, recognised in a wider region. fles (home-made Istrian pasta), venison and
and truffles – its brand-making features. The
New generations of viticulturists and wine- boškarin with pljukanci (home-made Istrian Istrian gastronomy, with its brave mix of the
growers systematically improve the quality type of gnocchi), asparagus fritaje (a type traditional and avant-garde, offers its guests
offering of this important Istrian brand. of omelette), pasta, proscuitto smoked and memorable specialities, allied with wines of
dried in the original Istrian manner, bacon the Istrian climate, affirmed and recognised
and other meat products, to sea specialities; in the international wine arena. These are
fish, crabs and shells from the Lim Channel. the reasons for touring Istria with plenti-
Guests of the Istrian estates are Extraordinary biodiversities, mountain rang- ful gastronomic and oenological curiosity,
es from Učka to the Mirna River valley and armed with sufficient patience to discover
offered delicacies which reflect the coastal belt all packed into the relatively new and so far unknown pleasures in the
the identity of the region. small Istrian territory. This is an inexhaust- hidden corners of this beautiful, promised
ible source for the creation of an imaginative land, and to satisfy the highest hedonistic
gastronomic and wine offering. criteria.
1_istria 19h ealth
Istria is a Croatian region, surrounded by
the sea, thus its cuisine is mostly based on
the fruits of the sea. Change of seasons and
the Mediterranean climate, as well as the
conditions at sea, dictate the type of sea-
food to be chosen at a given time. Plenty of
fresh fish and famous shrimps are available
for most of the year and they are a perfect
choice for a healthy heart, particularly the
Omega 3 fatty acids, obtained from sea-
food which protect the heart and vascular
system.
Zinc (Zn), the mineral found amply in sea-
food, is of vital importance for the immune
system. The amount of zinc in the body is
related to vitality and replacement of lost
energy; revitalisation.
Shells, limpets and fish are surely the pri-
mary choices in Istria, for they are full of
minerals.
Exotic taste and an extravagance of truffles
are a temptation for all those ready for a
gastronomic adventure.
A strong point in the gastronomy of Istria is
made by olive oil, which presents a perfect
choice for energy and good health.
g roceries
Goat cheese
Brill
Truffles
Istrian proscuitto
d ishes
Fritaja (a type of omelette)
Pljukanci (home-made Istrian
pasta) with asparagus and
truffles
Bitter orange cake
Bouillabaisse (brudet) of dry-
smoked octopus
Fried shark
20wi n e s
Istria is the largest peninsula in Croatia region where we find an equal distribution
and its most western winegrowing region. of continental and Mediterranean varieties.
Its geographic position is excellent, and is Many of them achieve supreme results and
almost fully surrounded by the sea. It has a significantly contribute to the fullness of Is-
mild Mediteranean climate, with significant trian wine’s nose and taste.
continental influences. This area is also very
interesting and diverse from the geopolitical Istrian varieties and their wine
view; it is situated within three states, be-
Until the middle of the last century, red va-
tween the east and the west, in touch with
rieties prevailed in Istria. Today, the leading
many different peoples and on a crossroads
variety in the assortment is the Istrian Mal-
of different cultures. Its rich and turbulent
vasia, a white variety dominant in all wine-
history, Istria nowadays uses to its advantage
growing fields. It belongs to the large group
– it is a multi-cultural environment, open
of malmseys, with some fifteen varieties of
and progressive in many segments of human
different characteristics. They are found all
life and work.
over the Mediterranean, and their common
All of that had its impact on the develop-
name often relates them to Greece, i.e. its
ment of vineyards and wine-growing, the
historic port of Monemvasia in the Pelopon-
history of which dates far into ancient
nesus. Still, all the research indicates that this
times. It is thought that the first vine was particular malvasia is unique and it is most
brought by the Greek colonists, several cen- probably the indigenous Istrian variety. It
turies before Christ. Istrian viticulture was has been grown in Istria for centuries, and
developing through the centuries and its its sudden rise happened after WW II, with
peak occurred at the end of the 19th century, the increase of interest in white wines. It is
together with other parts of Croatia, before a polyvalent variety, used for production of
the appearance of the vine-pest. Today, Istria all types of wine, from sparkling to soft, des-
is one of the most important Croatian wine- sert wines. The quality of the wine strongly
growing areas. Wine is not only an impor- depends on the growing circumstances, and
tant agricultural product, but also an inte- particularly the quality of the soil. The best
gral part of the tourist offer. As proof of this, varieties of malvasia come from high terrains
everyone who comes to Istria by car can see; and soft, flysch grounds. We find it in all
after passing the 5 km long tunnel through quality categories – from table to supreme
the Učka Mountain, one of the first signs: wines. Nonetheless, the vast majority of
Istria – the land of good wine. malvasia comes from dry wines from ordi-
nary picking, with a discrete, pleasant type
Wine-growing fields and produc- of aroma, which reminds us of the locust
tion conditions flower, and is of good constitution with a
full, balanced taste. It represents the basis of
Istrian vineyards are situated in three wine-
production and is the base wine for almost
growing areas – western, central and eastern all Istrian wine makers.
Istria. The whole peninsula is characterised Chardonnay, white and grey Pinot are world-
by vast differences in its landscape – its vine- known varieties, with excellent results in
yards are situated at all altitudes, from sea- Istria. The specific climate of Istria has a
level to 400 m above the sea. Climate is also favourable impact on the characteristics of
diverse. The average annual temperature in the wine, and they mature into wine of full
Poreč and Pula is high (13 – 14 °C), with a and medium strength, but aromatic with a
moderate amount of rainfall (of about 850 balanced taste. The same qualities can be
mm/year). Central Istria experiences a more noted with white sauvignon. This environ-
significant influence from the continental ment provides for its flavour to be fully ex-
climate and thus, the average annual tem- pressed. In comparison to the colder parts
perature in Pazin is just above 11 °C, with of the continent, where sauvignon varieties
a significantly higher amount of rainfall are lighter, with an intensive flowery flavour,
(>1000 mm/year). But, besides these large the wine here is fuller and the bouquet is
differences in environmental conditions, more complex. The white Muscat wine holds
the most significant and notable difference a specific place within the assortment. It is
is in the soil particularly and obviously its usually found here under the name Muscat
colour. Istria is thus often divided into the Momjanski (named after the area in which
Red (red soil, terra rossa), and White (flysch it is found, Momjanština). In particular,
soil, terre biance). It is the diversity of the Momjan, a picturesque place in Western
environmental conditions that leads to the Istria, has a tradition of cultivating this par-
high number of grape varieties being suc- ticular variety, and is known for production
cessfully grown in this area. Istria is a specific of some of the best Croatian dessert wines.
1_istria 21These are usually much flavoured, semi- to the French Gamay. Still, genetic research sia Alba and Alba barrique, Grimalda, ex-
sweet or sweet wines, produced from regu- has discarded this hypothesis, and has es- cellent Cuvée Chardonnay, Sauvignon and
lar picking or some traditional procedures tablished that this variety is identical to Istrian malvasia) and Kozlović (with Santa
typical of the production of dessert wines. Frankovka (a dark-skinned variety), i.e. the Lucia, from the location of the same name,
In this way, the grapes are usually left on Blaufrankisch or Lemberger variety. It gives is one of the most sought after malvasias,
the vine to become over ripe, possibly un- good, red wine, of moderate fullness and and semi-sweet Momjanski Muscat in the
til the end of October or November, or are colour, very appropriate for everyday use category of dessert wines), but also Coron-
additionally dried after picking. Teran (or with many Istrian traditional dishes. The ica and Trapan, who have been attracting
Terrano) is the leading red variety in Istria. Muscat Ruža of Poreč is a local synonym for world attention lately with their malvasias.
It gives usually well coloured, aromatic a more famous Austrian Rosenmuskateller or There are also the Pilato, Degrassi, Arman
wine, pleasant and fresh, with a tart taste. the Italian Moscato Rosa, an old variety of and a dozen other less known, but percep-
The best Teran wine is produced in central rather particular features; it gives excellent, tive wine makers.
Istria, around Motovun. In good years, and mostly dessert wine, whose bouquet re- The largest producers are the Agrolaguna
with moderate vinification, these wines are minds us of roses. The wines are semi-sweet and Istravino. They offer many varieties of
among the best this variety can give. Refosk or sweet, of very intensive bouquet, mod- wine of moderate price and good and excel-
(refosco) is a type of variety close to Teran, erately coloured and of full taste, balanced lent quality (particularly Merlot and Caber-
and was therefore considered for that wine and with very long ending. Besides the vari- net Sauvignon of the Agrolaguna, and Ter-
for a long time. Still, they differ. Refosk is eties mentioned above, which form the ma- an Dajla of the Istravino). It is important to
less prominent, but gives wine of similar jority in the vineyards of Istria, we can also mention also the wine maker Roxanich and
characteristics and is also considered a na- mention draganela, brajdenica, opačevina, Franco Arman, whose wines have recently
dolcin, duranija, surina and some other va- been positioned among the best Istrian ter-
tive variety and a trade mark of red Istrian
rieties, which are today almost forgotten. an wines. Some of the best Croatian spar-
wines.
They are not used separately, but as part of a kling wines are produced in Istria, under
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and
mixed, mostly old plantations. We consider the name of Misal, where we find several
Merlot are world-known varieties, and they
them the native varieties and measures have sparkling wines produced in a traditional
are widespread in Istria where they achieve
been taken lately to revitalise them. procedure of bottle fermentation. Besides
excellent results and are used on their own
the usual varieties of chardonnay and red
or as a cuvée. They are grown all over the pe-
Principal producers pinot, produced in the traditional, cham-
ninsula, but the best vineyards are found in pagne method, the native Istrian varieties
the western, warmer part, close to the sea. According to many indicators, Istria is one are also being vinificated, making those
The largest plantations are around Poreč. of the leading Croatian wine-growing re- wines rather specific and interesting.
Their wines are full, medium strong, well gions. The number of producers is on the The Association of Vine and Wine Growers,
coloured and with a discrete, distinctive rise, and the areas covered with grape-vines Vinistra, is largely responsible for the devel-
flavour. Red Pinot is less well represented, are expanding. Most of them are located in opment of vine-growing and wine making
but it gives good wines. They are fuller and western Istria and the majority are small in Istria. They organise regular exhibitions
of better colour than those from inland. It wine cellars, companies and family farms. of wine, Vinistra, (at the beginning of
gives the best results in the production of During the 90s of the last century, a new May) and the international competition,
Istrian sparkling wines, together with Char- Istrian wave started from here. A few young The World of Malvasia, which is a sort of
donnay and Istrian malmsey. Hrvatica (a producers started production in a new, a world championship of wine produced
woman of Croatia) is a less represented va- modern way and have quickly risen to the from different malvasias. They have initiat-
riety. It is considered an indigenous variety, Croatian peak. They are successful on the ed the programme Malvasia IQ, the system
gives a good crop and its wine is in the mid- world markets today and their products for awarding a specific marking IQ (Istrian
dle quality range. Borgonja is another vari- are often given excellent marks and receive Quality) to the best malvasias. In this way,
ety considered as autochthonous, although, awards. Among them, distinguished are the they promote and raise the quality of the
for a while, it was thought to be identical Matošević (with famous, recognised malva- most important Istrian wine.
22You can also read
