LALIBELA & GHERALTA MOUNTAINS ADVENTURE - YELLOWWOOD ...

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LALIBELA & GHERALTA MOUNTAINS ADVENTURE - YELLOWWOOD ...
2019

Lalibela & Gheralta Mountains Adventure
 9 day adventure in Northern Ethiopia to explore the iconic Gheralta
           Mountains and 13th Century rock-hewn churches
                              Sat 16 - Sun 24th Nov 2019
                              Sat 9 - Sun 17th May 2020
                             Sat 19th - Sun 27th Sept 2020
                                             £1299

                                                    All transfers,
                   8 nights, twin   8 Breakfasts,    2 guides,       Intermediate
                       share        8 lunches, 8    plus porters     (4-7hrs /day)
                                       dinners

  Ethiopia is often called the 'Tibet of Africa’ due to its remoteness and
  the natural beauty of its mountain ranges. The Gheralta mountains in
 Tigray Province are not only visually stunning but are also home to over
             30 churches hewn into the rocky mountainsides.
Built at altitude to bring pilgrims closer to heaven and to be hidden from raiding armies that might
head through valleys and villages, their location off the beaten track has ensured that few visitors
      have enjoyed the art and beauty of these constructions, or the pathways to reach them.

  This stunning adventure also includes an introduction to bustling Addis Ababa, and a tour around
    the holy town of Lalibela, home to the UNESCO World Heritage Site’s 13th Century churches
(commonly referred to as The Eighth Wonder of the World) and a centre of Pilgrimage. From here we
      set off to remote Gheralta mountains, for a stunning and unique 5 day trek, camping with
        panoramic views, and meeting friendly local villagers and learning about their culture.

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LALIBELA & GHERALTA MOUNTAINS ADVENTURE - YELLOWWOOD ...
2019

   Itinerary                                        lunch we will drive for a couple of hours to
                                                    our lodge in the Gheralta Mountains for a
                                                    fantastic dinner and a rest before our
   Day 1: Journey begins in Addis                   trekking adventure begins!
   Ababa
   Following your arrival and settling into the     Day 4: Begin Gheralta
   Monarch Hotel, your adventure begins             Mountains Trek
   with a tour of this liveliest of cities          After being dropped off closer to the range,
   including its Cathedral, National Museum         we will immediately ascend to take in the
   and Merkato. In the evening we will watch        magnificence of the area. Today we visit
   traditional musicians and dancers                Yohannes Makudi Rock church, which we
   performing                                                                  view inside,
   different tribal                                                             along with all
   dances in a                                                                  the other
   culture house                                                                churches high
   before dinner at                                                             up in the
   a restaurant                                                                 mountains,
   and a jazz club                                                              before
   or two for any                                                               descending to
   interested                                                                   our campsite
   parties.                                                                     situated in the
                                                                                beautiful Debre
   Day 2:                                                                       Zion valley, with
   Addis                                                                        cactus, olive,
                                                                                sycamore and
   Ababa to
                                                                                eucalyptus
   Lalibela                                                                     trees.

   We hop on our
                                                                                This is the first
   short one-hour
                                                                                day of your trek
   national flight
                                                                                and you will be
   (not included) to
                                                                               walking for
   the historic town of Lalibela where we will
                                                    approx 5 hours to an altitude of 2500m
   begin our guided tour of the ancient 13th
   Century rock-hewn churches, easily the
   most famous of all the monuments across          Day 5: Debre Zion to Giant
   this enormous country. Our professional          Sycamore Tree camp
   local guide will lead us through the intricate
   system of underground passages that              Today we will hike up to view inside the
   link the incredibly beautiful eleven churches    delightful Abuna Abraham rock church,
   in the UNESCO World Heritage Site.               which requires a good climb in order to
                                                    reach it; the views both inside and out are
   Day 3: Lalibela to Gheralta                      simply breathtaking. Tonight we will camp
   Mountains                                        under the biggest sycamore tree in the
                                                    region, a wonderful spot where many of the
   It is a full day’s drive from Lalibela to the    local exotic birds flock to nest in its
   Gheralta Mountains, so instead we will take      branches. We walk through a local village
   a short flight (not included) to the ancient     so will get to try the local beer ‘tala’. You
   capital city of Axum to view its C4th 24m        will enjoy around 4 hours of hiking today, to
   tall granite stele and explore its charming      a max altitude of 2400m above sea level.
   markets and town centre. After a relaxing

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LALIBELA & GHERALTA MOUNTAINS ADVENTURE - YELLOWWOOD ...
2019

   Day 6: Sycamore Tree to Agoza                    Day 8: Koraro to Addis Ababa
   Camp                                             We will drive from Koraro to visit the world-
   En route we climb Mt. Kemmer (2670m), the        renowned Abuna Yemata Guh rock church
   highest mountain in the Gheralta range           (2580m), carved within a giant sandstone
   affording 360° views of the surrounding          stalagmite. It is not a climb for the faint
   mountains and desert plateau of Tigray. We       heated, requiring simple ropes and a
   enjoy lunch at the top before a gentle but       harness for one particular spot as you
   long descent into the valley. En route we        ascend the giant stalagmite. This being
   will also pass by a tiny rock hermitage          said, the climb is optional (you can decide
   carved into the mountainside before              the day) and our guides are there to help
   reaching our camp in Agoza village, where        you. For those who opt to do the climb, it is
   we will camp in                                                                one of the most
   the grounds of                                                                 incredible
   the local school,                                                              things you will
   chatting with                                                                  ever see!
   the villagers
   that often                                                                    The walk is only
   congregate                                                                    around an hour
   there.                                                                        up and even
                                                                                 less coming
   Today’s walk                                                                  down.
   builds on your
   experiences                                                                   We then drive
   from yesterday                                                                to Mekele
   and will involve                                                              Airport for our
   6 or 7 hours of                                                               flight back to
   trekking.                                                                     Addis Ababa for
                                                                                 our final group
   Day 7:                                                                        dinner at one of
   Agoza to                                                                      the best
                                                                                 restaurants in
   Koraro                                                                       town.
   Camp
                                                    Day 9: Fly out from Addis
   Our hike takes us up to beautiful Abuna
   Gebre Michael rock church carved deep into
                                                    Ababa
   the mountainside (2400m) and adorned
                                                    Leaving the beauty of Ethiopia is going to
   with magnificent frescos. We then follow
                                                    feel all wrong but ‘normal life’ awaits you.
   the priest down a narrow natural defile cut
                                                    Time to plan your next escape!
   through the rock of the mountain which
   leads to our campsite. This is situated in the
   lee of an enormous natural cave with a
   sandy floor for our tents.

   We celebrate with a barbecue of fresh meat
   and beer brought up from the nearest
   village, a campfire and dancing!

   You will be walking for around 5 - 6 hours
   today.

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2019

 Accommodation                                     Facilities
                                                   With the exception of some of the higher
                                                   class hotels in Addis Ababa, hotels generally
 We fully believe in, and practice Responsible     do not have heat or air conditioning. As
 Tourism and use hotels run by locals. We put      nights can be chilly, please bring appropriate
 time and effort into building                                              sleepwear if needed.
 our relationship with
 them to ensure you have                                                   In areas where
 a a great trip.                                                           malaria is a problem,
                                                                           hotel rooms come
 This trip involves both                                                   with mosquito nets.
 hotel and camping
 accommodation.                                                            Electricity: Ethiopia
                                                                           runs on 220V and
 Addis Adaba:                                                              uses 2 round-prong
 Monarch Hotel                                                             plugs (such as those
 (www.monarchaddis.com)                                                    in Europe), so please
 Address: Cameroon                                                         bring suitable
 Street near Edna Mall,                                                    adapters. Away from
 Addis Ababa, Ethiopia                                                     lodges, and hotels,
 Phone: +251 116672480                                                     there is no electricity
 Wifi & Pool                                                               so you should be
                                                                           prepared with extra
 Lalibela:                                                                 batteries or charging
 Jersualem Hotel (http://                                                  capability.
 jerusalemlalibela.com-
 ethiopia.com) or Mountain
 View Hotel, depending on availability.

 Camping (Day 4-7):                                What’s
                                                   Included…
 Camp staff will set up camp and move your
 belongings on with donkeys. We have our
 own chef and drink bottled water. There is a
 camp shower suspended from a tree in a            • 8 nights twin share accommodation
 tent using filtered well/river water. There are     (unless you have paid for a single room)
 no toilet facilities - you need to find a
 suitable spot away from the group and             • All transfers, including airport transfers
 waterways and carry your own toilet paper,
 burning it after use.                             • 8 nights full board accommodation

 Gheralta Mountains:                               • Full guided itinerary which includes at the
 Wukro Eco Lodge                                     minimum, your YellowWood guide and a
 (http://wukrolodge.com)                             Local Guide, plus City Guides and Lalibela
 Phone: +251 344 431247                              guides for certain days of the trip.
 Wifi & Pool
                                                   • Porters and camp staff all ensure that you
 Unless you have booked a single room                are well supported and secure on this
 (supplement of £200), you will be sharing a         holiday.
 twin room with another client (of the same
 gender)

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2019

    & What’s not                                   Coffee
                                                   Coffee lovers will be delighted as Ethiopian
                                                   coffee is some of the best in the world - it
  Flights                                          was discovered in Ethiopia and is deeply
  Visas                                            engrained in the culture of the country,
  Insurance                                        playing a huge role in social gatherings, as
  Airport Taxes                                    the unique “coffee ceremony” is performed.
  Tips
  Alcoholic drinks                                 The coffee ceremony starts with green
  Souvenirs                                        coffee beans, which are washed and then
                                                   roasted over a fire. The roasted, smoking

  Food & Drink                                     beans are passed around to ensure the
                                                   guests take in the pleasing aroma. The beans
                                                   are then ground and boiled with water in a
  The staple of every Ethiopian meal is injera,    traditional Ethiopian coffee pot, called a
  a spongy, pancake-like bread made from the       ‘jebena’. Three rounds (known as ‘abol’, ’t’ona’
  local grain, ‘teff’ (gluten free!) which is      and ‘bereka’) of coffee are served in small
  mixed with water and allowed to ferment.         cups while incense is burned over the fire.
  This gives it a slightly sour taste (not         Popcorn may be served. Coffee and tea may
  dissimilar to sour dough bread). It is cooked    be served with a lot of sugar, so those who
  on a flat plate over a fire and is laid on a     prefer it without or who would like to add
  large platter with the main dish on top. Small   their own are advised to order it without
  pieces of injera are then torn off and used to   sugar (yaleh sukwar).
  pick up bite-size portions of the main dish.
                                                   Alcohol
  Dishes eaten with injera include a variety of    A variety of local Ethiopian beers are
  meat (beef, lamb and chicken), stews (known      available as well as some locally-made red
  as ‘wat’, they may be spicy or mild), lentils    and white wines. Other locally-made
  and vegetables.                                  alcoholic beverages include ‘tella’, a local
                                                   beer made from various grains, ‘tej', local
  Some international cuisine is available in       honey wine, or mead, and ‘areki’, a hard liquor
  Addis Ababa but less so outside of the           made from maize.
  capital, though basic European dishes are
  available and pasta is generally found
                                                   Special diets
  everywhere. Guests are advised to drink
  bottled water to avoid any stomach               Please inform us of any special dietary
  discomfort during their stay. Soft drinks are    requirements prior to booking. Vegetarians
  wide-spread as well as fresh fruit juices.       will have no problem to find suitable options
                                                   but a wide variety might not always be
  We will have our own chef with the group         available.
  when we are camping, who rustles up
  delicious local fare.                            Coeliacs and other intolerances can also be
                                                   provided for and we can communicate with
                                                   you individually and prepare to make sure
                                                   you have the right food throughout your trip.

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2019

Date & Time                                      This ensures you the perfect balance of
                                                 information and support on your trip, with
                                                 your Ethiopian guides offering insight into
The Ethiopian calendar is based on the           local life and customs, as well as routes
Julian, not Gregorian calendar, so is around 7   during hiking, whilst your Yellow Wood guide
years behind the familiar UK calendar.. It       ensures the smooth running of your
consists of 13 months – 12 of 30 days and a      adventure.
13th month with 5 days (6 days in leap year).
The Ethiopian year 2003 started on
September 11, 2010 in the Gregorian
calendar and was a leap year, meaning the
                                                 Your Group
Ethiopian year 2004 started on September         Your group will be any number from our
12, 2011. September 11, 2019 will ring in new    minimum group size of 4, up to a maximum
year 2012 in Ethiopia.                           of 12 clients. This number works really well
                                                                                 with the ratio
Ethiopia time                                                                    of guides,
is 3 hours                                                                       and ensures
ahead of                                                                         the optimum
GMT (East                                                                        level of
Africa Time),                                                                    service to
and is                                                                           you during
generally                                                                        your
based on the                                                                     adventure.
rise and
setting of the                                                                    We get
sun. For                                                                          clients
example,                                                                          booking
07:00                                                                             alone, as
Western time                                                                      couples and
is Ethiopia’s                                                                     in small
01:00am                                                                           groups of
(approx.                                         friends. If you have a group of friends or
sunrise and the start of a new day), while at    family who are interested in having their own
noon it is 06:00am Ethiopian time. Most          customised trip, then please let us know and
Ethiopians translate their time into Western     we can cost it for you.
time when speaking English, but it is best to
confirm if time given is “Ethiopian or
European” to avoid confusion.
                                                 Am I fit
Guiding                                          Enough?
                                                 You are visiting the mountainous areas of
Supporting you on your holiday will be a
                                                 Ethiopia and your itinerary involves hiking/
minimum of 2 experienced, approachable
                                                 trekking over rough terrain (see Itinerary for
and knowledgeable guides’ one from the UK
                                                 details). To get the most of out of this
YellowWood team, and an in-country local
                                                 adventure, you need to be a regular walker
guide. On some days, we will be joined by
                                                 and in good physical condition. You do not
additional local experts to help give us
                                                 need to be experienced in trekking, however.
expert information and guidance.
                                                 The hiking is at the natural pace of the
                                                 group, with regular stops.

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2019
 Walking is in the heat and over rough
 terrain.                                         Travel
 You will be carrying just a day pack and         Your YellowWood adventure starts at the
 bottle of water (bottled water)                  airport in Addis Ababa. We understand that
                                                  arriving into an unfamiliar airport can be

 Training
                                                  very daunting, so we aim to give you as
                                                  much information her as possible to help
                                                  you prepare.
 As with all active holidays, the fitter you
 are the more you                                                           Finding
 can relax and                                                              flights
 enjoy the
 stunning route,                                                             Flights are not
 and the better                                                              included in the
 you can cope                                                                cost of your
 with challenges                                                             holiday, and
 such as the                                                                 whilst we are
 outside elements.                                                           happy to help
                                                                             advise you,
 Clients are                                                                 responsibility for
 advised to get in                                                           booking the
 as much regular                                                             correct flights
 walking/ short                                                              rests with you.
 runs before the                                                             We recommend
 trip as                                                                     that you use a
 convenient.                                                                 comparison tool
                                                                             when searching
 NB: If you have                                                             for flights, such
 bought new                                                                  as: momondo or
 hiking boots for                                                            skyscanner.
 this adventure,
 this is the right time to wear them in, not on
                                                  Foreign Travel Advice
 the trip itself.
                                                  For the latest travel advice from the Foreign
                                                  & Commonwealth Office including security

 Start & End                                      and local laws, plus passport and visa
                                                  information, check www.gov.uk/foreign-
                                                  travel-advice.
 Monarch Hotel (www.monarchaddis.com)
 (+251 116672480)

 In Country Contacts
 Abeba Tours:
                                                  Airport &
 From abroad: +251 927819331
 In country: 091 927819331
                                                  Arrival Info
                                                  Bole International Airport (Addis Ababa)
 YellowWood Adventures:
                                                  has reassuringly tight security measures
 Sam McManus +44 (0)7742869969
                                                  and for this reason they do not allow any
                                                  non passengers into the airport.

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Fortunately, the Monarch Hotel has a small
booth inside the airport so all you need to do
is head to the booth and tell them you are a     Domestic Flights
hotel guest with YellowWood, and they will
organise your shuttle transfer straight to the   All domestic flights are operated by
hotel (transfer of 20mins).                      Ethiopian Airlines, unless prior arrangement
                                                 has been made for special charter flights.
Before you head to the Monarch desk
however, you have a couple of jobs to do!        This trip involves Internal flights as follows
                                                 (not included):
1. Purchase your Visa on arrival, if you
   haven’t already got an e-visa: the visa       Addis Ababa to Lalibela (Day 2)
   desk is clearly signposted (see later         Lalibela to Axum (Day 3)
   section for detail)                           Mekele to Addis Ababa (Day 8)

2. Exchange Currency: The easiest is             Domestic flight baggage allowance is as
   probably to use the ATM in the arrivals       follows:
   lounge, however there is also a bank to
   change money near immigration and             Checked baggage must not exceed 20kg,
   baggage claim (see later section on           whether in one bag or combined for 2 bags;
   Currency Exchange). For convenience, we       Excess weight will be charged at the rate of
   would recommend changing currency at          40ETB/kg.
   the airport rather than doing this in Addis
   Ababa.                                        Carry-on baggage must not exceed 7kg,
                                                 excluding personal handbags or purses,
Toilets can be found in the arrivals lounge.     laptop, reading material or other special
                                                 carry-on items.

Hotel Arrival                                    Special arrangements can be made for
On arrival at the Monarch hotel, you should
                                                 photographic equipment. Liquids may be
head to reception. You will be greeted by
                                                 taken in carry-on luggage and are not
your guide at the hotel, and will be welcome
                                                 required to be in a zippered plastic bag.
to settle into your room.

                                                 For Domestic arrivals, again, we are not
You will be heading to a local restaurant for
                                                 permitted inside the terminal so our rep will
lunch and a trip briefing, once everyone has
                                                 be outside in the parking lot
arrived.

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Climate &                                        Despite generally moderate temperatures,
                                                 it’s important to remember that Ethiopia sits

Weather                                          close to the Equator, making the sun very
                                                 strong. It is therefore recommended to use
                                                 high-factor sunscreen and wear a hat.
Known as the Roof of Africa, much of
Ethiopia sits in the highlands, between
1800-2400m (5900-7900 feet). This keeps
the climate temperate with warm sunny days
                                                 Health
and cooler nights. In the south the weather is   With proper precautions, visitors to Ethiopia
warmer, but the nights may still be cool.        can enjoy a healthy stay. Please ensure you
                                                 inform your guides if you have medical
There are two main rainy seasons; the            conditions they need to be aware of, or if you
shorter rainy season, known as ‘belg’, which     feel unwell during the trip.
happens in the highlands generally between
February and April, and the longer rainy         For the most up to date information on
season, known as krempt, from June –             vaccinations and medical advice for travel,
September.                                       please go to https://travelhealthpro.org.uk -
                                                 a very comprehensive website providing up-
In the south, the rains generally fall April -   to-date and reliable information for the
June with some chance of rain later in the       traveller, travel industry and health
year, October/                                                               professionals.
November.

                                                                           Malaria
Addis Ababa has a                                                          There is no malaria
moderate climate                                                           in Addis Ababa
throughout the                                                             and in many
year, ranging from                                                         places in the
20-28°C                                                                    northern highlands
(68-83°F), and                                                             (with the
cooler during the                                                          exception of Bahir
rainy season, from                                                         Dar), as the
10-20°C                                                                    malaria-carrying
(50-69°F).                                                                 mosquitoes do not
                                                                           travel to higher
The mountainous                                                            altitudes,
regions, including                                                         generally above
the Simien                                                                 1800-2000m.
Mountains and the
Bale Mountains,                                                             Malaria is present
can drop to near                                                            in lower-lying
freezing at nights                                                          areas, however, so
when at high                                                                proper precautions
altitudes and                                                               should be taken.
during the rainy                                                            The only
season. Visitors,                                guaranteed way not to contract malaria is to
and especially trekkers, should dress in         not get bitten by a malaria-carrying
layers.                                          mosquito.

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Suggested ways to avoid contracting malaria         important to know that public restrooms may
include:                                            offer a different scenario. Squat toilets may
                                                    be all that is available, and toilet paper is
• Sleeping under mosquito nets (provided in         rarely provided. Guests are advised to always
hotels where malaria is present)                    carry their own supply of toilet paper with
                                                    them to public facilities. Pocket tissues
• Using insect repellent and wearing long           (known locally as “soft”) are widely available
trousers and long-sleeved shirts                    and are a convenient and discreet option.

• Taking a prescription anti-malarial drug          Altitude Sickness
(atovaquone/proguanil aka Malarone,                 The highest peaks in the Simien Mountains
doxycycline and mefloquine are                      are over 4000m, which can
recommended; chloroquine is NOT an
effective anti-malarial in Ethiopia)                be difficult for people coming from lower
                                                    altitudes. While we do our best to create an
Water                                                                               itinerary that
Water should                                                                         allows for
always be                                                                            some time for
boiled or                                                                            acclimatising,
treated before                                                                       altitude
drinking.                                                                            affects
Alternatively,                                                                       everyone
bottled water                                                                        differently,
is always safe                                                                       and varying
and is widely                                                                        degrees . It is
available on                                                                         not foreseen
your holiday.                                                                        that you will
You should be                                                                        have problems
cautious when                                                                        with altitude
eating raw                                                                           on this
vegetables or                                                                        adventure as
salads that                                                                          our maximum
may have been                                                                     altitude is
washed in local water. Food should always be        around 2700m, however, if you experience any
eaten freshly cooked. Remember the traveler’s       of the following symptoms while trekking,
mantra: “Boil it, cook it, peel it or forget it.”   make sure to inform your guide and try
                                                    descending to a lower altitude as soon as
Medical Treatment                                   possible.
Hospitals vary greatly in quality throughout
the country and private hospitals or clinics        • Headache
are generally preferable. In the unlikely           • Fatigue or weakness
situation where you require Medical input, you
will be advised by your group guides.               • Dizziness or lightheadedness
Recommended hospitals in Addis Ababa                • Nausea or vomiting
include: St. Gabriel Hospital, Bethzatha
                                                    • Excessive shortness of breath
Hospital and Myunsung Christian Hospital
(Korean Hospital).                                  • Persistent rapid pulse

                                                    • Peripheral oedema (swelling of feet, hands
Public toilet facilities                              or face
While the hotels that we use offer us good
facilities with Western-style toilets, it is

Lalibela & Gheralta Mountain Adventure                                                           10
Social and                                        living. Sleeveless tops, mid-length skirts2019
                                                  longer shorts are generally acceptable, but
                                                                                             and

Cultural Norms                                    people should always cover up with a shawl or
                                                  longer clothes when visiting a church or other
                                                  religious site. Miniskirts, crop-tops and short-
Ethiopian culture is quite unique and there       shorts should all be avoided. While wearing
are some things first-time travellers to the      comfortable clothes is a priority while
country will need to observe. Most Ethiopians     travelling, it is recommended to avoid
are either Christian (with the majority being     excessively torn, tatty or shredded clothing.
Ethiopian Orthodox, followed by Protestant)
or Muslim. Most people, regardless of their       Affection
religion are very devout and conservative in      Public displays of affection are not seen in
their lives. We offer the following tips and      most areas of Ethiopia and can be
guidelines:                                       embarrassing to locals. We suggest you
                                                  refrain from kissing, holding hands (man/
Smoking                                           woman) or engaging in any other forms of
Smoking is still something of a taboo in          affection in public. Male/male hand-holding is
Ethiopia and is generally frowned upon. While     quite common in Ethiopia and is a sign of
few men may smoke in public in urban areas,       friendship. It is also important to note that
women certainly do not and it may attract         homosexuality is illegal in Ethiopia; if same-
strange looks or blatant comments to “stop        sex couples share accommodation it must be
smoking”. Smokers may best be advised to          in twin accommodation (2 beds).
smoke in designated areas or in private.
Please make sure to dispose of your butts in a    Garbage
proper way. Many restaurants, hotels, bars, etc   Proper disposal of garbage is still not
allow smoking inside.                             common practice in Ethiopia, however, we
                                                  hope that you will set a good example and
Drinking & Drugs                                  respect the environment of Ethiopia by
Drinking is acceptable, but it is always          holding on to your garbage until it can be
advised to drink in moderation and try to         disposed of properly. If a local accompanying
avoid blatant public displays of intoxication.    you throws garbage on the ground, we
All drugs, narcotics, etc, including cannabis,    suggest you pick it up (or ask them to, kindly)
are illegal, and often unknown in rural areas.    and explain why it is better to dispose of it in
Narcotics should not be sought after or used.     a proper place (so we can enjoy beautiful
                                                  Ethiopia!)
Chat
Also known as ‘qat’, chat is a mildly-            Standards
stimulating leaf that is chewed, similar to the   Ethiopia is fast developing but does not have
coca leaf in South America and the betel leaf     all Western luxuries. Food items may not be
in Asia.                                          available on menus, electricity might go out
                                                  and water may stop working (to name a few).
This is often done socially amongst friends,      While this may be frustrating after a long day,
but you may also see people go about their        when the only thing on your mind is a hot
daily work while chewing chat. Chat is legal in   shower, for example, it’s important to
Ethiopia, but is illegal in many Western          remember that these minor inconveniences
countries and should not be brought out of        are short-lived and relatively small in
the country.                                      comparison with the daily challenges in the
                                                  life of the average Ethiopian.
Clothing
Ethiopians generally bare much less skin than     Please try to accept these challenges as they
Westerners and do their best to look their        come with the territory of adventure!
best, despite often meagre standards of

Lalibela & Gheralta Mountain Adventure                                                        11
2019
 Begging                                           a fee (1-5 Ethiopian birr) to take their
 Despite its cultural richness, Ethiopia           photos. You should always negotiate the
 remains one of the poorest countries in the       price before taking a photo. You may, of
 world, with a significant percentage of its       course, opt not to take a photo if you don’t
 population living in poverty. This has led to a   agree with the price, terms or practice.
 large number of beggars and street-
 dwellers, particularly in Addis Ababa. Giving     Tipping
 money to these beggars                                                 There is no obligation to
 unfortunately supports                                                 tip, however, it is a nice
 the practice. We                                                       gesture to reward good
 therefore advise guests                                                service. Whilst the
 to support a local                                                     tourism industry
 organisation instead of                                                sometimes results in an
 giving handouts of                                                     expectation of such a
 candy, pens and clothes                                                reward, a tip is
 to street children.                                                    ultimately your decision
                                                                        and is not mandatory,
 NB: giving handouts or                                                 so should be considered
 making purchases while                                                 a bonus.
 in a vehicle is illegal
 throughout Ethiopia,                                                   The challenge is that
 and the driver is subject                                              there are no standard
 to a ticket if he or any                                               tipping guidelines to
 of the passengers are                                                  offer, but consider the
 caught.                                                                following points:

 Highland Frenzy:                                                         •In many restaurants, a
 Highland was the first                                                  10% service charge is
 bottled water in Ethiopia, and its name has        often added. While this is meant to go to
 become synonymous with the plastic                 the staff, it is often unclear if that actually
 bottles, which are highly coveted. The             happens. Giving a few extra birr for good
 “Highland frenzy” involves children running        measure is acceptable.
 after fast-moving vehicles hoping that
                                                   • In small cafes, 1-2 birr or some spare
 plastic bottles will be thrown out to them.
                                                     change is an appropriate tip for a small bill
 This creates a very dangerous situation of
                                                     (for coffees, etc).
 children running in front of the vehicles with
 dire consequences. We therefore ask our           • For local guides for a day, the average is
 guests to refrain from the practice of giving       probably between $5-$10.
 plastic water bottles to children, but rather     • For drivers and guides who are with you for
 leave them with a hotel or restaurant, where        an extended time, the average is probably
 they will be distributed properly.                  between US$10-20/day.

                                                   • For other service providers (shoe-keepers,
 Photography
                                                     priests, scouts, etc), tips might range from
 Please ask before taking a photograph of
                                                     a few birr to a few USD per day, depending
 any person. Many people will happily oblige,
                                                     on the nature of their service.
 but others may not want their photos taken,
 and that should be respected. In some areas,      The above guidelines are for individuals and
 in fact, cultures believe that photographing      small groups; larger groups might consider
 women, camels or other people or animals          giving more if they wish and feel the person
 will in fact put a curse upon the                 performed above and beyond expectations.
 photographed subject. People might ask for

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2019

Safety and                                        Finances
Security                                          Currency
                                                  Ethiopian currency is the birr, available in
Ethiopia remains a very safe country for          notes of 1, 5, 10, 50 & 100. Coins are
travellers. There are, however, some basic        available in 5, 10, 25 and 50 cents (or santim)
precautions to consider for safe travels.         and 1 birr (though the latter are not used so
                                                  if you do end up with one, consider it a
Always watch your belongings and beware of        souvenir!
pickpockets, especially in large crowds.
Particularly in Addis Ababa (most notably         Ethiopia is a cash economy and you will not
the ‘mercato’ and near to the stadium),           be able to use cards in most places.
pickpockets operate in large numbers. Use
common sense and keep all money in a              Exchange
money belt and all valuables in your hotel        US$, Euros and GB£ can all be easily
safe.                                             exchanged at banks. For US$, please bring
                                                  notes that are series 2000 or later and for
Crimes that do happen are often crimes of         larger bills eg $100, series 2006 or later are
opportunity, so it is advisable not to walk       even better. Older notes were more easily
around with mobile phones, i-pods or other        counterfeited and so many banks will not
tempting valuables out in the public eye.         change them.

                                                  You can change money at Bole International
While Addis Ababa is a very safe city, guests
                                                  Airport. Keep your receipts for ATM
should of course be sensible and vigilant.
                                                  transactions if you think you may need to
                                                  change back your birr to foreign currency
As a tourist, you can certainly expect a lot of
                                                  before leaving Ethiopia as you will need to
attention on the street. Although on
                                                  present this to make the transaction. NB-
occasion, this can feel like a hassle or
                                                  sometimes AT receipts are not available (the
harassment, it is rarely an actual threat.
                                                  ATM should notify you before you finalise
                                                  the transaction).
Walking in the city alone during the day is
still very safe, but we do not recommend          We have reports that airport exchange
walking alone in dark areas at night. We also     service are unwilling to change bills of less
do not recommend going to local coffee            than 100 birr, and that they require a
ceremonies with strangers. You will be given      minimum of 1000 birr to change the money
further advice on this during your holiday        to foreign currency.
briefing.

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2019

We are often asked how much money you
should bring with you on your trip - this is      Stay in Touch
hard for us to answer as it is often a personal
choice re budget, however we would advise
                                                  Phone
having more available rather than less. We        Ethio Telecom is the sole provider of phone,
would suggest a budget of an equivalent of        mobile and internet services. Progress is
£50 cash/day, which will cover you for            being made but connections may sometimes
snacks,                                                                          be disrupted,
alcoholic                                                                        slow, or
drinks, tipping                                                                  altogether
and souvenirs.                                                                   impossible!
You could have
                                                                                 International
this cash in
                                                                                 mobile phones
£GBP or in US
                                                                                 may or may
$ which can be
                                                                                 not work
exchanged as
                                                                                 depending on
required- as
                                                                                 your provider,
well as having
                                                                                 for either
local currency
                                                                                 making or
available.
                                                                                 receiving calls
ATMS                                                                             and/or SMS
                                                                                messages, and
(Visa &
                                                  there is often no mobile signal in rural areas
Mastercard)                                       and the mountains. For emergencies
There is one at Bole International Airport as
                                                  however, your Yellow Wood guide has a local
well as being available in Addis Ababa and a
                                                  SIM card which works in the areas you are
few other locations. However, it is best not
                                                  visiting.
to rely on ATMs outside of the capital as
they may be out of order or empty of cash.
                                                  International phone calls and fax services
Credit cards: Visa and Mastercard can be
                                                  are available in Addis Ababa and in various
used for cash advances at Dashen Bank
                                                  locations around the country.
branches throughout the country and United
Bank in the Hilton in Addis Ababa. Few hotels
or other merchants accept credit cards, and       Internet
                                                  Internet cafes are widespread, with varying
when they do there is often an additional
                                                  connection speeds (often not broadband).
service charge.

Travellers cheques                                Speeds will generally not match what may be
accepted at some banks but please bring           the norm in most Western countries. Full
your original receipt of purchase as well as      outages are also common and may last
your passport in order to cash them and note      some time (eg several days). Please do warn
that there may be a service charge. They          relatives and friends that you may not
can’t be used to pay for goods in retail shops    respond to emails etc due to internet issues,
- only to be changed at the bank.                 so that they don’t worry.

                                                  Post
                                                  Ethiopia’s service is reliable, although it can
                                                  be slow. Post offices are generally open M–F
                                                  from 08:30 - 17:00/18:00, plus some are

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2019
open Sat mornings, but desks may close at
16:00 and during lunch times.                     Insurance
EMS (Expedited Mail Service) is generally         Holiday insurance is essential for all Yellow
quicker and more reliable, though more            Wood Adventures. Unfortunately anyone
expensive, and is able to be tracked.             without insurance is not able to take part in
                                                  the holiday so please make sure you arrange
                                                  cover. We recommend sorting your

Visas                                             insurance when you book so that if you have
                                                  problems during the run up to your holiday,
                                                  and need to cancel, you are covered.
A Tourist Visa, valid for 30 day ($50) or 90
days (US$90) can be purchased at Bole
                                                  Prior to the holiday, we will ask you to send
International Airport by Tourists holding
                                                  us details of your insurer, policy number, 24
passports from any of the following “tourist-
                                                  hr emergency assistance contact details and
generating” countries.
                                                  the name, address, and telephone numbers
                                                  of your NOK or persons to be notified in the
Argentina, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil,
                                                                                  event of an
Canada, China,
                                                                                   emergency.
Czech
Republic,
                                                                                Your insurance
Denmark,
                                                                                needs to cover
Finland,
                                                                                you for hiking /
France,
                                                                                trekking with
Germany,
                                                                                the following
Greece, India,
                                                                                fairly standard
Ireland, Israel,
                                                                                inclusions:
Italy, Japan,
Kuwait,
                                                                                •Medical
Luxembourg,
                                                                                Expenses
Mexico, the
Netherlands,                                                                    •Repatriation
New Zealand,
                                                                                •Helicopter
Democratic
                                                      rescue & Air ambulance
People’s Republic of Korea (North Korea),
Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of Korea       Some clients also like to ensure they have
(South Korea), the Russian Federation,            the following optional items:
Slovakia, South Africa, Spain, Sweden,
                                                  •   Cancellation cover
Switzerland, Thailand, United Kingdom,
United States of America.                         •   Loss or damage to property

Nationals from all other countries must
obtain a visa BEFORE arrival from the
nearest embassy.

If you want to save time on arrival at Bole
Airport, you can apply for an e-visa at
https://www.evisa.gov.et/#/home

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2019

  How to Book                                    monies are placed directly into a trust
                                                 account so your funds are 100% protected
                                                 at every stage of your adventure.
  1. Our website holds detailed trip
     information and availability options, so    Client monies stay in the TTA account until
     booking can be made online via the trip     the end of your trip or can be released prior
     adventure page.                                                       to that, to pre-
     We use a secure                                                       defined
     World Pay                                                             suppliers, on the
     service for online                                                    condition that their
     payments.                                                             services are
                                                                           financially insured
  2.    If booking more                                                    through the TTA’s
       than 3 months in                                                    Supplier Failure
       advance of your                                                     Cover system.
       departure date,
       a £200 non                                                         As part of our
       refundable                                                         membership
       deposit is                                                         contract we are
       payable. The                                                       obliged to maintain
       remainder is due                                                   a high standard of
       no less than 3                                                     service to you by
       months before                                                      the TTA’s Code of
       the departure                                                      Conduct.
       date.
                                                 • We have full Tour Operators Professional
  3.   You will receive payment confirmation       and Public Liability Insurance with
       from WorldPay and the Travel Trust          specialist brokers Tasker & Partners Ltd.
       Association (TTA) as well as an email
                                                 • We carry out risk assessments on all of
       from YellowWood Adventures.
                                                   our holidays to ensure we have thought
                                                   through every detail
  4. As your adventure draws closer,
     YellowWood will send you a detailed         • We employ staff with the correct
     information pack and Packing List.            experience and skills to ensure you have a
                                                   safe and fun trip, and have a thorough
  5. Should you have any questions about           training programme each season
     your holiday or the booking process, then
     please don’t hesitate to get in touch:      • We comply with the legislation and
     email: info@yellowwoodadventures.com          Tourism Code for the countries we work in.
     phone: +44 (0)2078460197

  Financial
  Protection
  YellowWood Adventures Ltd is a member of
  the UK’s Travel Trust Association (TTA) –
  www.traveltrust.co.uk – whereby all client

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