Luci - Unesco World Heritage Sightrunning through 1,000 years of history - Visit Luxembourg
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Luci
Inspiring Travel Stories from Luxembourg
ISSUE 1 / 2020 - ENGLISH
Discover industrial heritage Head for the hills Unesco World Heritage
On the trail of Three friends discover Sightrunning through
sweat and steel the Lee Trail 1,000 years of history
Editorial
Moien and welcome, friends!
I’m often asked what characterises Luxembourg and why
it’s worth coming here. A European capital, urban culture,
fantastic scenery, gastronomic highlights… it’s got everything!
But what impresses me most is the unique range of authentic
experiences that move people and touch their hearts. That’s
the Luxembourg feeling. Luci in a nutshell!
Luci is the new tourism magazine for Luxembourg. Luci
brings you numerous stories about people, ideas and places.
Luci is like the country itself: cosmopolitan, varied, tolerant –
and offering a thousand and one ways to stir your emotions.
I’m sure it will inspire you to want to see the small but
diverse country of Luxembourg for yourself one day. Get
to know the country and its people from up close!
I hope you enjoy your own personal Luci experience!
Dr. Sebastian Reddeker
CEO Luxembourg for Tourism
PS: Did you know that the first recorded reference to
Luxembourg was in 963: Lucilinburhuc, which means
something like “little castle”. The fortress has now gone,
but Luci is here to stay and stands for modern Luxembourg.
3
64
Content 50-52
Open and Diverse
YOUTH HOSTELS
IN LUXEMBOURG
70
All-round feel good sensation
54-57
6-17 The Good Life
Open and Diverse HAUTE CUISINE
WORLD HERITAGE SITE FROM THE FOREST
FOR 25 YEARS Poetic in conception,
34 Sightrunning purist in execution
18-21 58-62
The Good Life Transforming Experiences 58
30
LUXEMBOURG CITY’S YOUNG WINEGROWERS
MUSEUM SMILE Fresh breeze
Art as a stroll in the vines
22-24 64-68
Transforming Experiences The Good Life
BIODIVERSITY VALLEY OF
IN URBAN AREAS THE SEVEN CASTLES
Hugo and the bees Guttland Road Trip
22
26-28 70-75
The Good Life Transforming Experiences
BEER CULTURE EDWARD STEICHEN’S
Craft beer is booming “THE FAMILY OF MAN”
Me, human
30-32 86-88
Transforming Experiences 76-78 Daydream
URBAN ART Transforming Experiences SPECIAL
Make Koler Kooler CROSSING OVERNIGHT STAYS
MUSICAL BORDERS Stay in a fairy tale
34-45 A whole city in sound
Naturally Europe 90-100
ESCAPARDENNE LEE TRAIL 80-85 Transforming Experiences
Walking with friends Daydream MINETT TOUR
BEAUFORT CASTLE On the trail
46-48 Where is Madame? of sweat and steel
Outdoors Passion
WATERSIDE CAMPING 102-112
Let it flow! Carte Blanche 90
MIKE ZENARI
Schueberfouer
114
6 Impressum
4 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 5
Open and Diverse NICE TO MEET YOU
Sight-
running
Luxembourg’s Old Town
has been a World Heritage Site
for 25 years: you can explore
it all on a Unesco walk.
Or you could put on
your running shoes and join
the FatBetty.Run running crew.
Photos MIKE ZENARI
6 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 7
When it was added to the
Unesco World Heritage list
on 17 December 1994, Luxembourg’s
old quarters and fortifications
joined a prestigious list of cultural
and geographical landmarks
that are of universal value and
therefore part of the collective
heritage of humanity.
The Pfaffenthal Panoramic Lift connects
the upper part of the city centre with the
Alzette valley. You get amazing views from
the glass cabin as it stretches a vertical
distance of 71 metres.
8 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 9
Everywhere in the city, you find Luxembourg City, Thursday, It’s easy to make new friends as would otherwise never see,” says
impressive architectural evidence of around 6 o’clock in the evening. you run. “It’s simply more fun doing Nikki. “We’re a sweaty, multicultural
Luxembourg’s strongly defended past. Independent Café is filling up it in a gang!” says Ricky, who has bunch,” says Yves, laughing. “There’s
with lively chatter and an after- been going along for the last two no hierarchy when you run. Your job,
You can even enter and explore the work atmosphere. The first run- years. The run has already spawned your age, your nationality or what
underground tunnels in the Bock cliff, ners are gathering around a big many friendships. languages you know – none of that’s
the so-called Bock casemates. table, most of them wearing the important. Newcomers are always
black crew T-shirt saying “Fat- “I always love going on the FatBetty. right in there as part of the group
Betty.Run”. No matter whether Run,” raves Nikki. “You see the city from the very start.”
it’s raining, snowing or sunny in a quite different way in summer
outside ‒ “the Bettys” meet up from in the winter, there’s always a Upstairs, Irina is freshening up.
every Thursday evening to run new perspective.” The team makes Born in Moscow and a passion-
through the city. First comes the sure that there are some nice ate trail runner, she always looks
run, and then the after-run beer sights on the way – including forward to the run through
– or perhaps two or three. The Unesco sites, of course. Neumün- Luxembourg City. “The town is so
mood is relaxed but a bit wild. ster Abbey in the Grund district varied, the old and new architecture
is a firm fixture on nearly every blend together perfectly,” she says,
One little spark run. “Some of the people who run
with us are only in Luxembourg for
straightening her head torch. She
likes the district of Clausen and
of madness a few weeks and through us they get the Pétrusse valley best. When
to know corners of the city that they it goes dark early in winter, you
They communicate via Facebook,
© DAN THUY
and the group is growing all the
time. The aim is to run together
through Luxembourg as a big,
happy troop, sometimes with
more than 50 people. The proce-
dure is kept as straightforward
as possible. Anyone who wants
to take part can simply turn up
and join the group. Runners can
get changed in the back room at
Independent Café, where val- The runners
uables can also be locked away. meet at Inde-
They run 10 km in about an pendent Café
hour – “it’s easily doable, and you to have a drink
and something
© DAN THUY
can stop and take photos now and to eat, prepare
again,” says Dan, one of the four for the run and
founders of the group. share their
news. There are
sometimes over
The FatBetty.Run is a really 50 runners.
memorable way to experience
the city – they call it “sight-
running”. Participants say that
running together through the
city is a great feeling; an energy
is created that welds the group
more strongly together each
week.
10 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 11
sometimes see a whole procession quietly. It was just Dic, alias four “founding fathers” of the run
© RENATA LUSSO
© RENATA LUSSO
of head torches moving along the Stéphane, who’s always good for used to call their 1-in-4-gradient
Bock cliff as the FatBetty.Runners creating a great atmosphere – and (training) hill in Steinsel, the
go past. providing “a little spark of mad- Montée Haute (“Décke Bierg” in
ness”. After Stéphane’s shout on Luxembourgish: “big hill”). And
Then, at exactly 6.45 p.m., they’re the bridge, the pace picks up a bit. “Fat Betty” just sounded a whole
off. The runners start outside Inde- On they go, uphill and down. lot cooler and more personal.
pendent Café, opposite the Almost like the name of a mascot.
neoclassical justice quarter. The
tempo is relaxed as they turn The “big hill” - More and more locals, tourists
left along Boulevard Franklin D. at speed and business people are joining in
Roosevelt. The runners pass the ca- with the FatBetty.Run through the
thedral and the impressive Golden Talking about going uphill, what’s city. Samuel from Manchester has
Lady statue with her laurel wreath, the reason for the name “Fat Betty”? only been in Luxembourg for a few
stood on a 21-metre-high obelisk At first, it doesn’t seem a very months. He thinks it’s great that
on the Place de la Constitution. obvious or appropriate name for the runners are always considerate
Some people are chatting, others a dynamic running crew. But that in setting the pace and that it’s not
are concentrating on the route and little, irritating incongruity is an a competition: “It’s not about racing
their rhythm. integral part of the slightly mad or pacing. It’s about having some ‘run-
concept. “We’re often asked about the fun’ together.”
They soon reach the Adolphe Bridge name as we run through the city with
and dart on to the footbridge our T-shirts on,” says co-founder “Sightrunning”, exercise and shared When the runners
underneath it. Suddenly there’s Guido with a grin. experiences in Luxembourg – it’s as go out in the dark,
a bloodcurdling cry, but no-one simple as that. their head torches
seems particularly scared, some The answer to the puzzle is as
shine in the streets,
people laugh and others smile follows: “Fat Betty” is what the www.FatBetty.Run
sometimes looking
like a string of pearls
made up of little lights.
The old fortified walls built to withstand
a siege are an integral part of the city.
The buildings of the Old Town blend
A trip to the amazingly well with the modern backdrop
Dräi Eechelen of the Kirchberg district in the distance.
Museum near
the Mudam -
© DAN THUY
Museum of
Modern Art,
is a journey
through past
and present.
12 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 13
The 153-metre-long Adolphe Bridge
(or “New Bridge”) ― one of the
longest stone viaducts in the world
― was built in 1900 and links the
upper town and the area around
the train station. The 4-metre-wide
suspension bridge for cyclists Mobility is an important subject
and pedestrians that has been
constructed between the main
in Luxembourg. There is an
arches offers excellent views over ultra modern tram connecting
and down into the Pétrusse valley. the city centre with the Northern
district — just in case you don’t
feel like running there. It’s no
more expensive than running,
because since March all public
transport in Luxembourg is free.
14 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 15
Experience exploring the Pétrusse
valley and the Grund,
port themselves into the
year 1867, just before the
The FatBetty.Runners see a succession of
stunning views as they run along. But you can
Unesco: Clausen and Pfaffenthal fortifications were razed to
experience the same fascination on a more
The Old Town was districts the easy way by the ground. In this virtual
awarded Unesco Unesco Visitor Center: bike, discovering a whole world, coachman Jos tells leisurely walk, for example the Unesco Old
World Heritage Site Unesco is brought to life host of interesting sights his passengers interesting Town and Fortifications walk, or the Bike Tour.
status 25 years ago.
Its inhabitants are at the Lëtzebuerg City at the same time. facts about his town; in
very proud to mark Museum. Unesco Old Town and reality, the visitors are
that anniversary. And www.citymuseum.lu Fortifications walk: In bumping over the cobble-
rightly so! Because in
Luxembourg the mix
Unesco bike tour: just 2.5 km, the Unesco stones in a minibus. It’s a
of past, present and Ride 9.5 km through the walking tour offers an fascinating illusion.
future is just right. city, up and down hills, extraordinary historical www.urbantimetravel.com
experience in less than 90
minutes. It includes:
1. Place de la Constitution
Unesco −
2. Park in the Pétrusse valley where else?
3. Plateau of the Holy
Ghost Citadel Every year on Whit
4. Grund gateway Tuesday, the Hopping
5. Corniche Procession of Echternach
6. Casemates in the Bock cliff transforms the abbey
7. City wall town into a focal point
8. Fëschmaart square and for crowds of pilgrims
St Michael’s Church and rhythmically hopping
9. Grand Ducal Palace people; this is Intangi-
10. Place Clairefontaine ble Cultural Heritage of
11. Cathedral of the Humanity.
Blessed Virgin www.unesco.lu
www.visitluxembourg.com
Casemates: The case-
mates are one of the main
sights in the city of Luxem-
Open and
bourg. With 17 of the diverse
original 23 km preserved,
they are the longest in the Despite appearing such a
world. Over 100,000 visi- peaceful place, Luxem-
tors tour the underground bourg, with its interna-
former fortifications every tional flair and the many
year. languages spoken on
www.lcto.lu its streets, is a modern,
Urban Time Travel: In dynamic metropolis.
the Pfaffenthal district, The current population
you can go on an exciting is over 122,000 and
trip back to the time when rising. The inhabitants
Luxembourg was still a for- come from 164 different
tified town. Urban Time nations; just 29 per cent
© RENATA LUSSO
Travel is a virtual reality are Luxembourgers, all
tour on which visitors use the rest are from other
a VR headset to trans- countries.
16 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 17
The Good Life LUXEMBOURG CITY’S MUSEUM SMILE
Even when just viewed from the
Before you even
street, the picture-perfect, stately set foot in the
Art as
town house casts its spell on you. Villa Vauban
And before you set foot in the with its collec-
Villa Vauban, with its collection tion of paintings,
sculptures, pho-
of paintings, sculptures, pho- tographs and
tographs and other objects, the other objects,
a stroll
surrounding park captures your the surrounding
park captures
heart. Although the building
your heart.
has only been a museum since
2010, its history dates back as far
© GAUVIN LAPETOULE
as 1873, when it was built. Art
lovers will find works from the
17th to the 21st century both in
the lovingly renovated, histor-
© SVEN BECKER
ical part of the Villa and in the
The compact contemporary extension.
capital truly Art outside
makes museum the mainstream
visits a stroll. Material, sound, light – the
Casino Luxembourg - Forum
The so-called d'art contemporain gallery
exhibits vibrant contemporary
“MuseumSmile”
art and nurtures young artists
working well outside the main-
stream. The forum celebrates the
is home artistic creative process with all
its risks and experiments, put-
to seven ting the spotlight on the creators
themselves. Cool workshops,
museums, enthralling conferences and
courses provide inspirational the Luxembourg-Grund quar- The Casino Luxembourg -
a mile that access to art. And occasionally
dancing to a rock, pop and elec-
ter – digital and multimedia
kiosks also tell the city’s exciting
Forum d'art contemporain,
a place for social gatherings
forms a smile,
for city leaders in the 19th
tro beat during the Night of the history. An especially interesting century, today celebrates
Museums. part of the museum this year is the creative process with
and not just The Lëtzebuerg City Museum
the Unesco Visitor Center. This
is the place to immerse oneself
all its risks and experiments
and puts the spotlight on
the creators themselves.
when plotted brings more than 1,000 years
of the city’s history to life. "The
in Unesco world heritage history,
its significance and distinctive
on the map. Luxembourg Story" exhibi-
tion is particulary well worth
features. Kiosks, some of them
interactive, display the historic
seeing. In addition to numerous Old City and fortifications. If
Photo ERIC CHENAL
exhibits – from photographs to you look out of the window you
statues, to old cash registers and can compare the models and
gloves made of leather tanned in drawings directly with reality.
18 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 19The National Museum of Histo- or miracle of science, this is a place
© CHRISTOF WEBER
After extensive
ry and Art – MNHA provides a where all can learn together and
renovations
the central "historical sweep" of archaeological solve mysteries – possibly accom-
exhibition rooms finds on Luxembourg territory panied by experts in one of the
of the National from the Stone Age, Bronze Age many on site courses or outdoor
Museum of
History and
and Iron Age, via the Gallo-Ro- excursions.
Art are largely man era to the Middle Ages. A
hidden under the historical and visual highlight is the The view of the upper and lower
refurbished Fish enormous mosaic from the Roman town from the large green expanse
Market square.
villa of Vichten, built around 240 of the Dräi Eechelen park is worth
A.D. And just how creative are the a visit and some souvenir photos
Grand Duchy’s craftsmen? Aficio- in its own right. This is where the
© GAUVIN LAPETOULE
nados of beautiful things will for historic, imposing Fort Thüngen,
example discover art deco treasures whose venerable walls and subter-
from the Villeroy & Boch ceramics ranean passageways accommodate
factory and furniture from indige- the museum, can be discovered one
© ANRI SALA
The Mudam ̶ Museum nous craft workshops. A Benz Velo, casemate at a time. From the very
of Modern Art invites you belonging to the industrialist Paul first second, one is immersed in
to discover contemporary Wurth, is the first vehicle licensed history, moving from the Middle
and avant-garde art in a
magnificent structure.
in Luxembourg back in 1895. And Ages to the 20th century, past orig-
just how seductive a gaze Mrs. inal documents and uniforms, coats
Condé Nast or silent film star Pola of arms and weapons. Without a
Negri were able to muster for the doubt, in these surroundings, the
camera at the dawn of the 20th journey is the destination. The Dräi Eechelen
century has been captured by Ed- More art and Museum, with
ward Steichen – on display in the Beauty museum highlights
its permanent
"Fortress, History,
contemporary art galleries.
The ancient Fort everywhere Identity" exhibi-
tion is in the
Thüngen is a
fascinating place, Nature at close The Mudam – Museum of Modern
As part of Inter-
national Museum
collectors of con-
temporary art. This
restored reduit of
the Fort Thüngen.
now home to the
Dräi Eechelen quarters Art brings cosmopolitan flair to the Day, more than 40 year it is from 18 to
In the background
stands the
Museum. capital and for architectural reasons museums in Lux- 22 November in the Mudam, designed
Outsized plants, animals from the alone has long since been an icon. embourg open their Victor Hugo Hall. by celebrated
architect Ieoh
© GAUVIN LAPETOULE
past or those one doesn’t see every Aesthetes will revel in browsing the doors free of charge Anyone with the Ming Pei.
day – the National Museum of museum boutique or lingering in on Luxembourg stamina can do the
Natural History, or "Naturmusée" the café created by French design- Museum Days. An rounds of all the
in Luxembourgish, is a place of dis- ers Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec. ideal opportunity to capital’s museums
covery and surprises. This begins in A weekend visit is particularly discover the Grand during the Night of
the reception area when you need enjoyable when brunch extends to Duchy’s extraordi- the Museums on 10
to look twice to realise that the a family feast or meal with friends. nary museum her- October.
bearded Stone Age man "Loschi" Every Wednesday evening there are itage. This year the Luxembourg
on the sofa isn’t real, or when you live concerts to dance to, perfor- weekend lands on 16 Card: Visitors can
marvel at the gigantic dandelion mances to applaud or conferences and 17 May. enjoy free or reduced
suspended from the ceiling. Fasci- to listen to. A permanent exhibit is Luxembourg Art access to more than
nating, colourful worlds don’t just the pseudo-Baroque garden fountain Week in autumn 60 museums and
reveal themselves here to curious by Luxembourg artist Su-Mei Tse, involves interna- tourist attractions
children; an excursion turns out to from which black ink bubbles, flows tional galleries and countrywide for 1, 2
be informative fun for all the fam- and drips. is always a magnet or 3 days.
ily. Whether evolutionary history www.museumsmile.lu for aficionados and www.luxembourgcard.lu
20 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 21Transforming Experiences BIODIVERSITY IN URBAN AREAS
“Even with the small distances bet- The bees of Limpertsberg are an
ween them, each district has its very assortment of academics, eccentrics
own range of flora. This comes out in and creative types. Consequently,
the honey made on the rooftops and the honey from this hood was never
Hugo
in gardens of the city’s neighbour- going to be plain. The clusters of
hoods.” Through 80 or so beehives fragrant cream to yellow flowers
and approximately 4 million of some 180 linden trees planted
bees, local beekeeper Hugo Zeler here give the summer honey a
supports bees and biodiversity notable minty taste. Along with an Each beehive produces an aver-
and the
in urban areas. Whether the bees abundance of chestnut trees, and age of 20kg of honey and houses
anything between a few thousand
choose linden trees, privet hedges, many public and private parks and
bees in low season and 50,000 in
rapeseed crops, home gardens or gardens, its honey has a multi-laye- the high seasons of spring and
city parks, the city’s varied vege- red character. early summer.
tation produces a palette of honey
bees
flavours.
"Hunnegkëscht" is all about sus-
tainable agriculture, conserving
urban biodiversity and quality
local products. Everyone can assist
pollinating insects by decorating
balconies or gardens with certain
herbs and flowers but for those
who want to get really involved,
Each Hugo rents out beehives mainly to
companies around town interested
Luxembourg City in participating in a sustainability
project, learning about bees, pro-
neighbourhood moting biodiversity, and acquiring
their own delicious honey.
has a distinct Vibrant vegetation
essence - in terms Bonnevoie has been growing into
of its characteristic the capital’s alternative, under-
ground district for some time.
people and places The buzz here is all about its
independent shops, restaurants
but the diversity and cultural offering that reflects
the variety of bees that call this
of its natural colourful neighbourhood home. Its
community makes it vibrant, and
surroundings too. more importantly where bees are
concerned, as does its vegetation!
This is thanks to the many gardens
Photos RAMUNAS ASTRAUKSKAS
in the district full of privets, as
well as the particular flora along
the River Alzette.
22 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 23Busy business
How to spot
Kirchberg’s bees maintain a fast- the queen bee,
paced modern lifestyle. These amongst all those
cultured bees work hard and other worker
work out, but also like a good
dose of world-class music and
have a weakness for modern art.
bees? She is
almost always
larger, but often
only slightly. The
Tr a m s m u s é e
Some may find it surprising that real distinction is
the longer abdo-
the honey from the rooftops
Museum
men and legs. She
s
Tram and Bu
of the capital’s booming busi- also moves with
ness district, also home to the purpose!
EU and academic institutions,
should have such strong notes of
the countryside. Marked by the
neighbouring rapeseed crops, the
bees’ Kirchberg honey reminds us
of the fields that lay here not long
before the extensive and ongoing
expansion of the city.
Although in its prime, the capi-
tal's thriving commercial district
Gasperich-Cloche d’Or currently
offers a sweet, floral acacia honey.
While buildings are popping up
all over, the area will also soon
be home to the city's largest park.
This means that lots more trees
and plants will be sprouting up
forming a lush natural environ-
ment, keeping the bees happy
and adding further aromas to
the nectar.
Golden rule: Never move a beehive.
Or if you must, then either less than 30cm
www.hunnegkescht.lu or more than 3km! The Tramsmusée invites you 63, rue de Bouillon | L-1248 Luxembourg
to dive into the fascinating Open Thursday from 1.30 p.m. to 5.30 p.m.
and Saturday, Sunday and official holidays
past, present and future
from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
of public transport in The museum will remain closed on 1.11,
Luxembourg with motor 25.12, 26.12 and 01.01 as well as
cars and buses restored the Christmas school holidays.
to perfection, as well as a Visits possible by appointment.
Free entry
display of many models on a
Tel: +352 47 96 23 85
1:8 scale and a rich exhibition tramsmusee@vdl.lu | www.vdl.lu
experience. GPS: 4935’57’’ N, 606’11’’ E
24 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURGThe Good Life BEER CULTURE
“Excitingly different beers”: that’s The former railway station in Bech
what Antoine Biasino and Joe is now home to the “Echternacher Under the name “Stuff”,
Craft beer
Hallack-Wolff from Steinsel are Brauerei”, so where there used to Joe Hallack- Wolff (left) and
Antoine Biasino (right) brew
introducing, according to their be passengers getting on and off beers that taste of honey and
banners. That’s why, at their brew- trains, there is now beer brewing in ginger, among other flavours.
ery, called “Stuff” (Luxembourgish
© BIRGIT PFAUS-RAVIDA
is booming
for “lounge”), they make beers
flavoured with, among other
things, honey and ginger and with
unusual names like Zingy, Rev-
olution IPA and Black Widow.
Joe and Antoine produce both
classic and experimental beers.
The pair, who met in a bar in
Belgium, embarked on their craft
beer adventure in 2015. “Someone
in the bar was complaining about the
In recent years, beer, so we got the idea of brewing
our own,” recalls Joe with a grin.
more and more people To begin with, they used a 50-litre
brew kettle in Antoine’s mother’s
have started making garage, but nowadays their vessels
contain 300 litres; the produc-
craft beers with tion facilities have taken over
the whole basement of the house
special flavours.
and further expansion is planned.
Antoine even gave up his job in a
© SVEN BECKER
bank for the “Stuff” project, and
In Luxembourg too, Joe has done an extra training
course to become a Master Brewer.
new, smaller stars Pale ale, IPA, wheat beer, Bock,
are appearing in stout and many others: at Craft
Corner in the Bonnevoie dis-
“beer heaven” trict of Luxembourg City, a wide
range of craft beer both “Made in
At Craft Corner in
the district of Bon-
alongside the Luxembourg” and from all over
the world, is served in bottles or
nevoie in Luxem-
bourg City, Olivier
major breweries. on tap from twelve pumps. The Schaul serves twelve
© SVEN BECKER
draught craft beers
menu at Craft Corner changes from Luxembourg
Photo RENATA LUSSO
every day. In the early evening, the and all over the
corner bar fills with people enjoy- world.
ing a refreshing after-work beer
accompanied by a substantial cold
platter or other snacks. The bar
also serves homemade lemonade
and, of course, last but not least,
its own beer from the “Bounewe-
ger Brauerei”.
26 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 27gleaming brew kettles. “We want it
to be simple and high-quality, classic
but still a craft beer,” says brewery
had his pilot’s licence in his pocket,
he couldn’t get the idea of making
beer out of his head. Pol made his
their beers in the café just across
the road. BRASSERIE NATIONALE
VISIT AND BEER TASTING
owner Pol Wesner, who actually first attempts in the cellar of his They have been making craft beer
comes from a wine-growing family. home in Bech, and today he runs at the “Béierhaascht” in Bascharage
So how did he get involved in the the Echternacher Brauerei with his since 2002. This is where “Lëtzebéi-
!
To visit
world of beer? “I went to pilot train- father alongside a qualified master er” is brewed. The site belongs to
ing school in Austria. I discovered the brewer. So far, they make pale ale, the Meyer family of butchers, who
beers there and I thought they tasted wheat beer and “Märzenbier”, a decided they wanted to make more
fantastic – better than anything I’d typical type of beer from Bavaria. of their business. So now there’s
ever tried before,” he recalls. Once he Among other places, you can drink a butcher’s shop and a beer shop
there, plus a restaurant, hotel and
© JONATHAN GODIN
the “studio” of the Master Brewer,
Guy Majerus. He studied for his
Master Brewer qualification in
Ulm in Germany. He still feels he
owes a great deal to the German
beer-making tradition. “Even though
it is permitted under our brewing
laws, I don’t add any flavouring such
as orange peel or ginger to the beers.”
Guy Majerus prefers a classic pale
ale. He is pleased that in general
“the art of beer-making is being talked A UNIQUE BREWERY EXPERIENCE
about and appreciated again today”. THROUGH TWO CENTURIES OF HISTORY :
Long conveyor belts, towering and Welcome by a professional guide
impressively illuminated tanks,
€15
complete walls of beer crates: the Guided tour through the brewery
/PERS
© SVEN BECKER
Guy Majerus, biggest brewery in Luxembourg Tasting session of 100% natural beers
master brewer is the “Brasserie Nationale”, the
at the “Béier- Souvenirs
umbrella brand and production Free for children under 16
haascht”, which
is a craft brewery, site for the two leading brands, Duration : 2h (tasting included) Languages : LU / FR / DE / EN / CN
restaurant, Bofferding and Battin. Bofferd-
traditional ing is a family business now in its
butcher’s shop
and eco-friendly tenth generation. The traditional
hotel, all in one. company in Bascharage has been in
existence for over 250 years. But it
also sometimes breaks new ground,
for example with Funck-Bricher,
a type of beer that dates from the
18th century, then disappeared in PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND RESERVATION:
Pol Wesner actually the 1970s and has now been revived
comes from a wine- • Visits on reservation from Monday to Saturday
growing family. He made as a vegan organic beer. For an
(without reservation on Saturdays at 3 p.m.)
his first attempts at insight into how beer is produced
beer-making in his cellar at the brewery, you can go to the • Booking by telephone : + 352 23 63 64 - 217
at home; now he runs the or on our website: www.brasserienationale.lu
modern visitor centre. There are
“Echternacher Brauerei”
in the former railway guided tours, beer tastings and, of • Access by : — Personalized transport service possible
station in Bech. course, beer and souvenirs to buy. • Enjoy food and drinks at our partner “An der Brauerei”
28 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG
2 Boulevard J-F Kennedy, L-4930 BASCHARAGE, Grand-Duché de LuxembourgTransforming Experiences URBAN ART
© ALAIN WELTER
“Make Koler Kooler” was actually only
Make Koler
supposed to be Alain Welter’s degree
project ― but now it just keeps on
getting bigger. No sooner had one
farmhouse had its wall sprayed then
Kooler
the next one wanted a painting too.
The story continues!
© BIRGIT PFAUS-RAVIDA
In Kahler (Koler in Luxembourgish) there is
graffiti on every corner — and everyone in the
village is delighted. That’s because the man wielding
the spray can is one of them: the 26-year-old
illustrator Alain Welter launched the
“Make Koler Kooler” campaign. His aim was
to introduce urban art to his home village.
Photos RENATA LUSSO
Lost in Kahler? No problem, just take
a look at the map sprayed on the wall.
The owner of the house, Victor Betz (left),
loves it: “I end up talking to lots of people
who are driving past.”
© LUSSEMBURGHINA
30 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 31Other urban art Skatepark, Luxem-
bourg-Hollerich. The site
hot spots: of the former abattoir is a
meeting place for skaters and
Place du Théâtre, Luxem- urban artists from all over
bourg City. The mural “One City the area. The face of the skate
– One World” by Joël Rollinger park changes all the time.
is almost 140 m2 and consists
© VDL
of numerous individually made
aluminium plates.
© FRÄNK MUNO / VDL
Your retreat www.pidal.lu
Take it easy! The owner of
this house wanted to send a nearby
message to drivers who drive
too fast through the village. Swimming pool 37, Rue des Prés
Fitness
Sauna L-7246 Helmsange
© YVES WELTER
Wellness (Walferdange)
Seawater basin
Ettelbrooklyn. The town of
Ettelbruck in the north of Lux- Gastronomic restaurant Tel: +352 33 91 72-1
embourg has picked up on the
concept which started with the
youth movement and has made
street art its trademark – for ex-
ample, this work by the French
artist Mantra. The Ettelbrook-
lyn Street Fest party takes place Rotondes, Luxembourg-
every year in September – col- Bonnevoie, lies directly behind
ourful, cool and multicultural. the central station. “Ready to
Play?” is a giant urban game,
© STADT ETTELBRÜCK
created by Jens Merkl, Ulrich
Blum, Jean-Claude Pellin and
In the clutches of art: designed by Alain Welter.
Alain Welter and one of
© ROTONDES / ANDRÉ GONNER
the three ravens. Ravens
also feature in the
village’s coat of arms.
32 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURGNaturally Europe ESCAPARDENNE LEE TRAIL
Walking
Head for the hills!
Luxembourg too has dizzying
with
ridge walks, spectacular cliffs,
lush meadows, whispering forests and
upland plateaus. The 52-kilometre-long
friends
Lee Trail in the north of the country
is the first section of the long-distance
Escapardenne Trail which crosses
the border into Belgium.
Three friends explored it together.
Photos ALFONSO SALGUEIRO
34 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 35The trail takes walkers up steep
paths and along narrow rocky
ridges through the wooded
valleys of the Sûre and Wiltz.
It starts in Ettelbruck and
finishes in Kautenbach. There
are a number of viewpoints
to discover along the way,
such as the view from the
Gringlee of the loop in the
River Sûre, and Lipperscheid.
The three stages of the Escapardenne
Lee Trail can be easily accomplished
in three days by experienced walkers.
So they sling their rucksacks on
their backs and off they go.
Disappear, leave behind their busy
everyday lives, immerse themselves
in an outdoor adventure in the Éislek.
36 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 37The symbol for the Escapardenne The three friends are keen hikers “Priedegtstull” (pulpit in English) detour to the campsite, you can en-
and love being outdoors. Alfon- viewpoint, where St Willibrord is joy another fine view of Bourscheid
Lee Trail is a white wave on a
so Salgueiro, 49, is a freelance said to have preached to the faith- Castle towering over the landscape,
blue background. “Lee” means photographer who has been living ful. From up here, they get their with the Sûre in the foreground.
“rock”. In Luxembourg there are in Luxembourg since 2001. Josh first picture-postcard view of the Today there is a light mist hanging
lots of villages and place names Dauphinee from Canada, 38, is River Sûre as it winds through the over the river. No wonder that the
incorporating that word – doing the Lee Trail today for the green valley. After that, the Lee French writer Victor Hugo painted
especially in the north of the first time. Ciarán Mackin, 36, Trail continues to climb steeply, the castle in 1871 - castles, mist and
from Ireland, is looking forward passing over a high plateau and romance go hand in hand!
country and in Luxembourg’s to getting to know the Lee Trail, then down again, past the village
Little Switzerland, which can be quite adventurous in of Michelau.
the Mullerthal. places, with his friends. “We’ll see Second stage:
if I’m fit enough,” says Ciarán. The next picture-postcard view Napoleon and
comes at the end of this stage of
First stage: the walk, a view of Bourscheid the Finger of God
Castle from the Gringlee, the
postcard views “green rock”. In Luxembourg The second stage is probably the
there are lots of villages and place- most strenuous part of the trail,
and steep climbs names, especially in the north of covering over 19 km and climb-
the country and in the Mullerthal, ing more than 900 m. Starting at
Ups and downs are the order of which incorporate the word “lee”, the campsite, the hikers cross the
the day right from the start. After meaning “rock”. Last stop: Boursc- railway line and walk across a steep
a croissant in Ettelbruck, the heid-Moulin. If you make a short slope, past the village of Bourscheid
friends start the walk in a leisure-
ly style, passing the memorial to
the famous General Patton, a key
figure in the Battle of the Bulge.
Their destination for the day is Alfonso, Josh
Bourscheid-Moulin, where they and Ciarán
intend to dine. in front of an
information
panel showing
As they walk through the quiet a map and in-
woods, climbing gently, the men teresting facts.
get chatting. Josh always pursued You can rotate
the individual
a lot of outdoor activities in his sections, but
native Canada. Ciarán, the Irish- somehow none
man, loves that there are so many of it makes
forests in Luxembourg. “It’s not like sense. It‘s a
question of
that in Ireland,” he says. Then the perspective:
men walk along in companionable walk around to
silence again. They enjoy the tran- the other side
of the sign,
quillity of nature – and the climbs and suddenly
are getting steeper. Every so often, the map looks
Alfonso stops, whips out his cam- right. That
era, sets up his tripod and snaps gives them the
first laugh of
leaves, mushrooms, trees, tiny the day.
details and expansive views. An
old-fashioned sign that fascinates
Alfonso points the way to the
38 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 39to the first spectacular stopping hikers with it. The three friends are the young at heart: the “Klang-
place, “Napoleonsbeemchen” a bit out of breath by now, but still wee”, a themed sound trail with
(Napoleon’s Tree) on the high in good humour. Josh gets up and 17 different stopping points. It
plateau, also called “Napoleons- climbs a little way up the rock be- begins in the centre of the village.
knäppchen” (Napoleon’s Mound). low the finger. It looks dangerous, Some of the objects can be played
The wind whistles around the pla- but he comes back safe and sound. with sticks, whether borrowed or
teau, because, apart from the tree improvised out of pieces of wood.
and the viewing platform, there The next viewpoint is another Josh and Ciarán have great fun at
is nothing to stop it. The original peculiar geological formation. The the very first stop: if you hit the
tree was planted in 1811 in honour crumbling layers of slate are like flat metal shape hard, it makes
of the Emperor Napoleon, but it puff pastry. If you scramble over all kinds of crazy sounds – elec-
was felled by the Nazis in 1940. them, you come to the Molberlee: tronically. It even plays a German
In 1941, the people of Bourscheid a narrow, 500-metre-long path hiking song, which is very appro-
secretly planted a new tree – the along a ridge, with the bare rock priate. There are also some more
lime that still stands there today. falling away steeply on either side. contemplative sound games, such
Alfonso and Ciarán gaze into the The Luxembourg Ardennes at their as an impressive wooden struc-
distance. The sprawling view is best. Many different species, some ture, at the top end of which a
amazing, with fields and meadows of them rare, grow around the wind chime moves gently. It’s very
creating a picturesque tapestry. Molberlee, including blueberries, meditative. You also see families
called “Molbier” in Luxembour- with children here, because you
Back in the forest, they focus on gish. They gave the ridge its name. can walk the 6 km Klangwee sepa-
the walk again: it’s a steep climb, Again, the men enjoy the peace rately from the Lee Trail.
with safety barriers in places and and quiet – until a mountain biker
you have to watch where you put whizzes past. So thrill-seekers come Alfonso, Josh and Ciarán leave From the “Priedegtstull”,
your feet. The path takes them on here too... The second stage finishes the instruments behind and the you get one of the postcard
past the Rouschtert viewpoint to in the village of Hoscheid. Lee Trail takes them on through
the “Doigt de Dieu”, a rock that is the Schlinder valley. Here they
views of the Lee Trail:
supposedly shaped like the finger find St Michael’s chapel, which the Sûre, winding through
of God. Alfonso is glad to have Third stage: has an air of romantic solitude – the green valley.
his wide-angle lens, so he can fit sound trail and as does the ghost village of Ober-
the whole of the unusual feature schlinder, where no one lives any
into his photo. Meanwhile, Josh thirsty work more. There used to be 20 houses,
lies in the shade of the “finger”, but now only two remain, and The three friends enjoy a well-deserved
and Ciarán considers with a grin From Hoscheid to Kautenbach, the last residents moved away in picnic on the Hockslee. Sausage, ham,
which of God’s fingers it might it’s just 15 km. There’s a special 1948 – after the privations of the cheese, bread, some water to drink –
be and what God is trying to tell highlight here for children and Second World War. Even before happiness can be so simple.
the Battle of the Bulge, many of
the residents had emigrated to
the USA.
The second
stage is The third stage also lives up to
probably
expectations in terms of spectac-
the most
strenuous part ular viewpoints. They have walked
of the trail, more than 50 km. Down below, a
covering over train goes by and stops at the sta-
19 km and
climbing more
tion in Kautenbach – the end of
than 900 m. the walk. Not much further now.
The sun is going down, and they
walk quickly down the hill.
40 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 41The 52 km walk is classed as a
“Leading Quality Trail –
Best of Europe”. It winds through
a varied, picturesque and unspoilt
landscape, where you can slow down
and let your mind wander.
If you make a short detour to
the Bourscheid-Moulin campsite,
you can enjoy a fine view of
Bourscheid Castle towering
over the landscape, with the
River Sûre in the foreground.
42 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 43Escapardenne Highlights: Kautenbach
Hoscheid
The three friends have walked
more than 50 kilometres and
Lee Trail: General Patton memo- Schlindermanderscheid drink a well-earned beer in
rial, Ettelbruck. Address:
Goebelsmuhle front of a rustic wooden pod
2,000 m of combined Avenue J. F. Kennedy, Lipperscheid
ascent and descent L-9053 Ettelbruck Bourscheid-Moulin at the Kautenbach campsite.
over 52 km Bourscheid Castle
Bourscheid
To friendship!
Stunning viewpoints (off the route) Michelau
Certified as a “Leading Napoleonsknäppchen
The Lee Trail is on unsurfaced paths,
with less than 20 per cent of the way
Quality Trail – Best of viewpoint. The highest
asphalted, so you need to wear suitable Europe” point on the trail
walking clothes and comfortable boots. Outstanding landscapes View of the loop in Erpeldange
The signposts: a white the Sûre from the Gring-
wave on a blue back- lee, Lipperscheid.
Ettelbruck
ground; the same as those Parking at the Hotel
on the Escapardenne Éislek Leweck in Lipperscheid
Trail, signposted in both Near-alpine ridge,
directions the Molberlee, Hoscheid
Hockslee panoramic
Three stages: viewpoint, Kautenbach
1. From Ettelbruck to Bour-
scheid-Moulin: 17.8 km Practical
Category: difficult information:
2. From Bourscheid-Moulin
to Hoscheid: 19.3 km Free parking at the
Category: difficult railway stations in Ettel-
3. From Hoscheid to bruck and Kautenbach
Kautenbach: 14.6 km For train and bus
Category: moderate services, see
www.mobiliteit.lu
Upon arrival in Kauten- Take a good supply
bach, ambitious walkers of food and drink with
can go straight on to you as there are not
the Escapardenne Éislek many places to stop
Trail, which starts from for refreshments along
there. Both are classed as the way
“Leading Quality Trail – “Walking without
Best of Europe” and the luggage” service available
combined length is 158 For detailed
km. In Luxembourg, the information, maps etc.:
long-distance trail is never Tel.: (+352) 29 04 04 1
far from the railway line, info@escapardenne.eu
so it is readily accessible, www.escapardenne.eu
winding its way through
the Ardennes range, and
is a magnet for energetic
walkers looking for un-
spoilt nature.
44 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 45Outdoors Passion WATERSIDE CAMPING
Nature waking up, birdsong in
© BIRGIT PFAUS-RAVIDA
the peace of the morning. Perhaps
a trout will bite, or a pike? You
can enjoy being close to the water
like this at many of Luxembourg’s
campsites, for example in the Éislek
region at the Bissen campsite near
Heiderscheidergrund, at Camping
du Nord near Goebelsmühle or
Camping Toodlermillen near Tadler.
In the Müllerthal valley there is
the peaceful Wies-Neu campsite
near Dillingen or Camping de la
Rivière near Reisdorf. Anglers
Anglers are welcome guests at the
can be found here throughout the campsites along the rivers. Here is one
season. trying his luck in Bourscheid.
Of course, campsites right beside
water also have much more to
offer. Stand-up paddle boarding in
Rosport and kayaking in Dillingen
are just as popular as mountain
biking and hiking. Most of the
campsites are very close to the
extensive network of footpaths that
criss-crosses the Grand Duchy and
extends beyond its borders. If you
Let it flow!
like, you can also use your campsite
as a base for exploring the country
by car or on public transport – free
of charge since March – because
Camping near water always
has a particularly soothing,
The Moselle, the Sûre, the Our, the Alzette relaxing effect – as shown here
at the Val d’Or campsite.
– all these rivers are wonderful places
to unwind. And what could be more relaxing
than emerging from your tent or caravan
at sunrise, seeing a slight haze over the water
and casting your fishing line?
Photos MARCO LAGEMAAT
46 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 47© CAMPING VAL D’OR
© CAMPING WIES-NEU
© CAMPING DU NORD
nowhere is so far away that it cannot
There’s also lots of fun be reached on a day trip. Among
to be had on the water many other attractions, you can visit
around the campsites,
Vianden Castle, the abbey town of
building dams or kayaking.
Echternach or, of course, the capital,
Luxembourg City; there are equally
well-equipped campsites every-
where. Or you and your family can
simply stay on one of the more than
80 campsites, soaking up the beauty
of nature and enjoying the excellent
facilities. If you do not have a tent,
caravan or campervan or you would
like a bit more comfort, there are
many kinds of other fun accom-
modation options, such as giant
converted wine casks, pods, tepees,
or cosy chalets like those at the
Bleesbruck campsite near Diekirch
© CAMPING BISSEN
in Luxembourg’s Ardennes region
or at the Route du Vin campsite
in Grevenmacher, right beside the
River Moselle. There, you can also
buy yourself a nice bottle of local
wine to enjoy outside your tent in
the evening, watching the sunset.
Further information Visit us all year round in Beaufort and be enchanted by the
Renaissance castle & Medieval castle
www.camprilux.lu
Watersports and sailing school
on the Upper-Sûre Lake
in Lultzhausen
www.basenautique.lu
Pumped-storage hydroelectric 24, rue du Château L-6313 Beaufort Luxembourg | T. (+352) 83 66 01 | contact@beaufortcastles.com
power plant in Vianden
www.seo.lu
BEAUFORTCASTLES.COM
48 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURGOpen ond Diverse YOUTH HOSTELS IN LUXEMBOURG
The times when several over-
night guests had to share a
All-round feel
spartan room and a single toilet
off a corridor are long gone.
Nowadays, with their choice of
different room sizes, fair prices
good sensation
and a fully comprehensive offer-
ing, including nutritious meals
in the Melting Pot restaurants,
youth hostels are an attractive
alternative to hotels and other
types of accommodation. “We
also have business guests leav-
ing our city youth hostels in the
morning, sporting a suit, headed
for Kirchberg”, says Peter Hengel,
Director of the Luxembourg
Youth Hostel Association. “But Action writ large:
of course families and groups are The Echternach
still our main clientèle”, he adds. sports youth hostel
boasts a trampoline
in addition to a
Community 14m-high climbing
wall. The nearby lake
The Remerschen youth hostel was built
by the top architects’ team Hermann &
affords relaxation,
experience fun and games.
Valentiny on the remains of a former
nunnery. Its dredged pond makes the
small winegrowing village a popular
There are currently nine youth destination for bathers in its own right.
hostels in Luxembourg. Most of Anyone in search of outdoor peace and
quiet will feel at ease in the "Haff Réimech"
them are ultra modern and very
nature reserve, where they can learn
well equipped. Each has its own
Having fun with
interesting facts about fauna and flora in
unique features – be it a climb- the Biodiversum nature reserve centre.
ing wall or indoor playground.
friends and family, What all have in common is
a philosophy that can best be
climbing, walking, described as an "all-round feel
good sensation". Facilitators
playing table tennis, organise events such as sightsee-
ing, themed walks or climbing
experiencing nature tours, with the educational as-
pect ever-present alongside fun
or city life side by and the community experience.
Sustainability and environmen-
side – the youth
tal protection feature promi-
nently within all youth hostels
and are much more than just
hostels offer all a fleeting trend. A fridge was
installed in Hollenfels selling
that and more. surplus cooked food from the
hostel at low prices to avoid it
Photos YOUTH HOSTELS LUXEMBOURG being thrown away.
50 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 51There are beehives in Esch-sur-
Alzette and the capital, as well
as in Marienthal close to the
Hollenfels youth hostel, with the
honey available for purchase in
the hostel shops.
Eco awareness
Many of the country’s youth
Photo: Mim Bloes
hostels, those in the capital
and Schengen for example, are
popular choices even among
locals for a quick and simple,
tasty and low cost weekday
lunch. Likewise with the food
at the youth hostels, a holistic
and sustainable philosophy is
now gaining traction. As far
as possible, care is being taken
Welcome TO the Upper Sûre
The youth hostel in all culinary aspects only to
Nature Park, the water region
in Luxembourg
City, with its large
use regional, seasonal, fairly of Luxembourg!
Tourism and nature protection, an harmonic interaction.
1
terrace with the
produced and traded products.
The Upper Sûre Nature Park comprises 5 communes and is situated
old town as a When overnight guests set off around the Upper Sûre Reservoir. This lake supplies 70 % of the
backdrop, is also on an excursion, there is no new Luxembourgish households with drinking water and is therefore
popular among plastic bottle in their lunch especially protected. Enjoy the diverse and harmonic landscape with its
locals – for a low huge diversity in flora and fauna.
cost and simple packet; instead there are stops
lunch. along the way where they can
An architectural highlight is the
house in Esch-sur-Alzette in the
refill their own bottles or bottles Hartelijk welkom in het
south of the country, right next to purchased at the hostel. And so natuurpark Boven-Sure, 2
the railway station and close to the
vibrant scene of Esch-Belval with the
each stay broadens awareness, by
osmosis so to speak, without any
de waterregio van Luxemburg!
Toerisme en milieubescherming, een harmonisch samenspel.
Rockhal, University campus and a
pedagogical finger wagging. Het natuurpark Boven-Sure omvat 5 gemeentes en ligt rondom
wealth of shops, bars and restaurants.
het stuwmeer van de Boven-Sure. Dit meer belevert 70 % van de
With its palette of red hues, its façade luxemburgse huishoudingen met drinkwater en wordt daarom bijzonders
reflects the "Land of the Red Rocks". www.youthhostels.lu beschermt. Geniet U ook van het veelvoudige en harmonische landschap
met zijn grote soortverscheidenheid van flora en fauna.
1 Interactive Nature Park exhibition
Interactieve natuurpark tentoonstelling
2 Textile museum (Cloth factory), Tourist
Information and shop with local products
Textielmuseum, toeristische informatie en een
winkel met regionale produkten 3
3 Nature discovery tours with the solar boat on the lake
Natuur ontdekkings bootvaarten met de zonneboot op het Book now!
stuwmeer Reservieren Sie jetzt!
52 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG
15, rue de Lultzhausen L-9650 Esch-sur-Sûre T. (+352) 89 93 31-1 info@naturpark-sure.lu www.naturpark-sure.lu Naturpark ÖewersauerThe Good Life HAUTE CUISINE FROM THE FOREST
René Mathieu is in his element chefs in his team as well is: the
in the forest. Within the first 30 forest beckons! For Mathieu, the
metres, he has plucked four or five plant hunter and gatherer, each Mathieu is a
Poetic in
edible treasures from the forest season has its own appeal. Many native of Bel-
floor redolent with the fragrance plants taste best in spring and gium, a gradu-
ate of the “hard
of fresh earth. And the constant summer, but the autumn also school” of haute
refrain is: “Here, try this!” Deftly has treasures in store. And in the cuisine, cooking
he divides the narrow stem into winter? The chef patrols the frozen in prestigious
conception,
kitchens before
several tasting portions. It has a fallen leaves in search of especially
coming to Lux-
herb-like taste, fresh, reminiscent beautiful fir branches to decorate embourg some
of a familiar vegetable – and for his dishes. 15 years ago.
good reason: “That is wild celery,”
purist in
the head chef in the historic
Château de Bourglinster reveals.
Upon conclusion of the herb
hunt, Mathieu will have presented
execution
a good dozen plants and herbs,
very different parts of which
will subsequently end up on the
plate: sometimes he uses the sweet
bitterness of the bracken fern root
to lend aroma, sometimes flowers,
leaves or stems are used.
Woodland walk
In the historic Bourglinster Castle,
a stone’s throw from Luxembourg’s It is seldom the obvious possi-
ble uses that interest the chef:
capital, René Mathieu conjures up woodruff, he explains for example,
can taste very similar to tonka
beans, heather can be reduced to a
star quality cuisine to enchant jus, which goes wonderfully with
pumpkin. And hazelnut leaves?
his guests. Plants and vegetables play Together with button mushrooms,
pear and hazelnut, they make an
the leading role – against a backdrop absolutely fantastic mille-feuille.
of imaginative stories in which The woodland walk is integral to
René Mathieu’s culinary philos-
the forest has a very special part. ophy. Several times a week and
every day in summer he goes on
Photos LÊMRICH the hunt through the hollows of
the meadows and woods surround-
ing the castle. Or he stops at some
of his favourite haunts on his way
into work early in the morning.
The regular mantra for the young
54 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 55It was in the restaurant “La Distill- combine on a plate. At some
Obviously, playing
with expectations is
erie” in picturesque Bourglinster point he had the inspiration, he
part and parcel of this. Castle, approximately 17 kilo- who “loves to invent stories”, for a
For example, anyone metres east of the capital, that dish about perfume. For Mathieu
who suddenly has an the chef found the right venue for at least, playing with aromas is Upon conclusion
entire flowerpot set of the herb hunt,
before them on the delivering his vision of a “cuisine an everyday experience in the
Mathieu will have
table correctly végétale”: “I use a lot of vegetables kitchen. The chef is constantly presented a good
surmises that, in and herbs,” René Mathieu explains, developing edible creations with dozen plants and
addition to the plant herbs, very diffe-
“but I don’t dispense entirely with a fragrance reminiscent of their
and flowers with a rent parts of which
creamy filling, the fish and meat.” Instead, he simply namesake, and which also tastes of
will subsequently
soil is edible as well. reverses the usual proportions on their essences. end up on the
The answer to the the plate – turning the side dishes plate.
mystery: roasted black
breadcrumbs.
into the main courses. As such, it For René Mathieu, working in the
can easily happen that guests sam- kitchen enjoys equal esteem with
ple several completely plant-based his forest walk and pondering
dishes at once, despite having what it might be possible to create
ordered the regular menu. from the individual ingredients.
His cuisine is purist in execution,
but poetic in conception. “Food is
Aroma symphony simple, but it comes down to imple-
mentation!” Then, the head chef
In selecting his ingredients, he sets says, it can be downright magical.
great store by regional products,
which he purchases from nearby www.bourglinster.lu
farms and gardens. Herbs and
plants come from the nearby forest,
only the fish has to come from Bel-
gium, where a friend of Mathieu’s Cook like a chef
runs a fishery, and what is caught is
what is used, as the chef is at pains In Kachen magazine
to stress: for him there is no such (in English: “Cooking”),
thing as bycatch; a good meal can aficionados of sophisticated
be made from everything. and typical national cuisine
will find a comprehensive
The Michelin Guide inspectors range of recipes and articles
regularly award Mathieu’s cuisine on specialities, trends and
a star and attest to his “masterful personalities. The magazine
technique”, with which he conjures is published online and as
up wonderful surprises on his a seasonal print edition in
guests’ plates. The Belgian King and three languages (German,
Queen visited recently, and Angela French, English).
Merkel as well, the chef explains, www.kachen.lu There are often
Products from music festivals,
has twice had dinner in the castle Want to become creative
other worlds of craft markets,
pleasure inspire with its wonderful views. in the kitchen and buy the weddings and other
the Michelin- best regional ingredients? celebrations going
starred chef, such He likes to sketch ideas for new Visiting one of the country’s on here. The building
as the creations is open to visitors
he enhances
dishes with crayons. This gives him numerous weekly markets is
upon application.
with evocative an impression of how the ingredi- the way to go. www.chateaubourg-
perfumes. ents’ colours, shapes and textures www.maart.lu linster.lu
56 LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG 57You can also read
