Maine Coon's Genetic Health Book - Your

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Maine Coon's Genetic Health Book - Your
Your
Maine Coon’s
Genetic Health Book
Maine Coon's Genetic Health Book - Your
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Congratulations!
You’re about to discover the story of your cat’s history and genetic
health
Thank you for choosing the OriVet Genetic Health Book to uncover the story of Your Maine Coon’s genetic
health.

Congratulations on taking the steps to learn about your cat’s unique nature and to understand her special
health needs. Knowing your cat’s unique genetic makeup is more than a novelty - it is a medical necessity.
Your cat’s breed is her ancestral genetic signature and carries unique health concerns much the same as
her age, sex and lifestyle. We believe that combining this knowledge enables you to provide a lifetime of
excellent care and live a happier life with your friend.

In this book, you will find detailed information specific to Your Maine Coon's health.

It is important to carefully review your entire report and discuss the results with your veterinarian to gain
the most value out of your cat’s Genetic Health Report. Your vet can help you use your report to help better
care for your cat. The next time you visit your veterinarian, consider taking this book with you and ask for
specific screening that may be available for your cat.

Dr. Noam Pik
Orivet Managing director
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Table of contents
Chapter 1   Maine Coon’s breed description, history, temperament and behavior,
            special needs and requirements

Chapter 2   Genetic diseases and inherited disease information specific to Maine Coon

Chapter 3   Caring for your Maine Coon, a lifetime personalised wellness program

Chapter 4   Making your home a cat's paradise

Chapter 5   Cat nutrition

Chapter 6   Dental health
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Maine Coon Traits
                                      The Maine Coonis a large
                                      breed, and is adapted
                                      to hunting in snow and
                                      cold weather.

         The Maine Coon is
         the official state cat
         of Maine, USA.

    The Maine Coon is                   The Maine Coon has a
    also known as the                   long, shaggy coat that
    “gentle giant” due                  requires less care than
    to her relaxed nature.              most long haired cats.

                      Ancestral Genetics
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   Ancestral Genetics

History                     The Maine Coon, also known as the American Longhair, is the
                            official state cat of Maine in the USA. Her origins are unknown, and
                            surrounded in much myth and mystery. Most breeders today accept
                            that the Maine Coon originated when local short-haired domestic cats
                            bred with imported long-haired cats brought be sea-faring traders,
                            possibly Angora-type cats brought by New England seamen, or
                            alternatively long-haired cats introduced by the Vikings. The Viking
                            theory is favoured by those who point to the similarity in appearance
                            of the Maine Coon to the Norwegian Forest Cat, which is also said to
                            descend from the cat that travelled with the Vikings.

                            The Maine Coon has bred naturally in the New England area for
                            hundreds of years, and is specifically native to the state of Maine.
                            Maine Coons were popular at early cat shows in Boston and New
                            York, although it is only quite recently that the breed has undergone
                            planned breeding with pedigrees recorded. The Maine Coon Breeders
A blue silver tabby         and Fanciers Association formed in 1968. Hence much of the natural
mackerel Maine Coon         form and hunting instinct of the original breed has been retained.

General Breed               The Maine Coon has developed to live in a harsh climate, and
                            has a long, heavy coat that is water resistant and glossy. The
Description                 coat is shorter on the head and shoulders, and long on the flanks
                            and belly, often with a thick ruff around the neck. The tail is
                            bushy and the feet are round, large and tufted with fur to help
                            her cope in the snow. The Maine Coon is one of the largest cat
                            breeds, and is tall, muscular and well built. The eyes and ears
                            are quite large, and the ears are well furred and tufted on the
                            inside. A tuft on the point of the ear is also desired. The head
                            is slightly longer than it is wide, with a relatively long, squarish
                            muzzle, and the body is long and rectangular.
          Maine Coon cats
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    Ancestral Genetics

                         The Maine Coon comes in a wide range of colours and patterns,
                         with the exception of the colour-point. Early Maine Coons quite
                         often carried a trait known as polydactylism (which means “extra
                         toes”) and it is thought this may have aided them in snowy
                         weather, helping to keep their feet warm and to walk on top
                         of the snow. This trait has almost disappeared from the breed,
                         as it disqualifies a cat from the show ring.

Breed                    The Maine Coon is sometimes called “the gentle giant” due to
                         her relaxed nature. They are loyal, intelligent cats that enjoy
Temperament              being involved in all the activities going on in the family. They
and Behaviour            are playful and not generally known as “lap cats”. They get
                         along well with other pets, including dogs, as well as children.
                         Males can be somewhat “clownish” in their behaviour, while
                         all are affectionate, and tend to be quite talkative with their
                         distinctive chirping trill.

                         The Maine Coon may be somewhat reserved around strangers.
                         They are independent, but love to play and remain playful
                         throughout their lives. They are also quite trainable, and can
                         learn many “dog-like” tricks and behaviours. They develop
                         relatively slowly, and do not reach their full maturity until they
                         are 4-3 years old.

Requirements             The long, shaggy coat of the Maine Coon is relatively easy to
                         care for, compared to other long-haired breeds. A comb once or
and Needs                twice a week is all that is required, and generally your cat will
                         love the attention! The Maine Coon should be kept indoors, as
                         she retains her well developed natural hunter’s instincts, and
                         will readily roam widely and expertly hunt the local wildlife.
                         She will require lots of play activities to keep her intelligent
                         mind occupied and allow her to express her natural hunting
                         behaviours in a safe way. She should not be left on her own for
                         long periods, and if in a home where this is likely to happen
                         she should have a companion cat for company.
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  Ancestral Genetics

Best Suited to         The Maine Coon will readily suit almost any family situation, as
                       long as her needs can be met.
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                         Genetic Disease
The list of diseases below was generated by reviewing the latest scientific literature. It
does not mean your pet will ever actually contract any of these diseases.

Please Note
The diseases listed are showing INCREASED RISK ONLY and are a result of calculations
comparing your cat›s details to studies published in the world literature on genetic risk
associated with this breed. This offers an opportunity to be on the lookout for these
conditions, diagnose them early, treat more effectively and in some cases even prevent
them.
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   Genetic Disease

Most Common          These are amongst the most common genetic and/or breed-associated
                     diseases and conditions seen in the Maine Coon, or are conditions
and/or Most          that have the most serious impact on the health and welfare of the
Severe Breed-        Maine Coon. It does not cover all the diseases that the Maine Coon
Predisposed          may be prone to.
Conditions
                     1. Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy
                     Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM) is the most common heart
                     condition in cats, with familial (inherited) forms of the disease having
                     been recognised in a number of breeds. The disease in cats is similar
                     to the disease in humans, where more than 120 mutations located
                     on 12 different genes have been shown to be able to cause HCM.
                     Ragdolls, Persians and Maine Coons are amongst breeds with higher
                     than normal rates of disease due to HCM.

                     To date genetic mutations have been characterised in the Ragdoll
                     and Maine Coon and genetic testing is available in these breeds.
                     The mutations are different in the two different breeds, but are both
                     located in the myosin binding protein C gene (MYBPC3). HCM may
                     also occur in these breeds without this particular mutation (i.e. due
                     to a different mutation). The mutations appear to be dominant genes,
                     but with variable penetrance. This means cats with two copies of the
                     mutation tend to have a more severe disease at an earlier age than
                     cats with one copy of the mutation, who may not develop signs of
                     disease until late in life. Large scale studies estimate that the Maine
                     Coon has a prevalence of HCM of approximately 34%.

                     HCM causes abnormal thickening of the heart muscle, and this means
                     that the heart cannot function properly. Thickening of the ventricle
                     of the heart leads to stiffness of the ventricle, and the inability of
                     the ventricle to relax adequately for filling. Blood tends to become
                     “backed up” in the atrium and in the veins of the lungs. Eventually
                     this increased blood in the lungs leads to leakage of fluid into the
                     air spaces, which is called pulmonary oedema. When this happens,
                     the cat has congestive heart failure. As well as congestive heart
                     failure, HCM can lead to arrhythmias (abnormal heart rhythms) and
                     sometimes this can cause sudden death without any prior clinical
                     signs of heart disease being seen. Another uncommon complication
                     of HCM is aortic thromboembolism, where a blood clot forms in the
                     enlarged left atrium and at some point is ejected from the heart and
                     lodges in the aorta - commonly where it narrows and branches to go
                     to the hindlimbs. This leads to a lack of blood flow to the hind legs,
                     and causes paralysis and is very painful. Clots may less commonly
                     lodge elsewhere, such as in the lungs or brain.
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        Genetic Disease

                                  Diagnosis of HCM is based on a cardiac ultrasound (echocardiogram),
     Screening for                and should generally be performed by a specialist. There is no cure
     hypertrophic                 for HCM, although if thickening of the heart muscle is secondary to
     cardiomyopathy:              another disease, such as hyperthyroidism, treatment of the primary
     1. Recommend all             condition may resolve the cardiac condition. Treatment of HCM aims to
     breeding animals undergo     manage signs of congestive heart failure, and reduce the abnormality
     DNA test at or before 1      of muscle relaxation as much as possible. Recent studies have shown
     year of age.
     2. Echocardiography          that calcium channel blockers (e.g. diltiazem) have shown good
     at 1 year of age and         results at improving heart function and blood flow around the body.
     recommend yearly for         Drugs to control arrhythmias are given if needed. Therapy is often
     breeding animals. Also       given to try to prevent blood clots from forming in the heart (e.g.
     perform on any cat with      aspirin), although studies have shown that this treatment is not all
     abnormal auscultation        that effective, and will not get rid of clots that have already formed.
     findings. Consider regular
     screening echocardiogram     This treatment must be monitored carefully, as it can also lead to an
     on any cat if owner is       increased risk of bleeding.
     concerned.

                                  2. Hip Dysplasia
                                  Feline hip dysplasia is considered to have a genetic component,
                                  and seems to be more prevalent in certain breeds, including the
                                  Maine Coon and Persian. Other factors contribute to clinical disease,
                                  for example obesity increases pressure on the hip joints and their
                                  supporting structures and contributes to degenerative joint disease
                                  (DJD, or arthritis) and pain within the joint.

                                  In hip dysplasia the hip joint, which is a ball-and-socket joint, develops
                                  abnormally and the ball of the femur (thigh bone) does not sit as
                                                                   tightly as it normally would within the
                                                                   socket of the pelvis (hip). The socket
                                                                   part of the joint is more shallow than
                                                                   usual, and as a result there is looseness
                                                                   or “laxity” in the joint. This looseness in
                                                                   the hip joint allows the bones to rub on
                                                                   each other, causing the cartilage lining
                                                                   of the joint to be worn away. Once
                                                                   cartilage is lost it cannot be replaced,
                                                                   and when bone is rubbing on bone pain
                                                                   and arthritis results.

                                  Cats are generally good at hiding pain, as they have an instinctive
                                  need to hide disability (and therefore vulnerability) from any potential
                                  predators. A cat with pain from arthritis due to hip dysplasia (or any
                                  other cause) may simply become less active than usual, and rest more.
                                  Often the cat owner may think the cat is simply “slowing down” with
                                  age. Other signs of joint pain may include difficulty getting in and
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     Genetic Disease

                                out of the litter box, which may result in inappropriate elimination,
                                or even constipation. A cat may groom less, or may groom around
                                the hip area more frequently. She may be reluctant to jump up onto
                                furniture or walk up stairs, may limp or show difficulty walking, and
                                may be “grumpier” than normal when touched. She may also eat
                                less and lose weight.

Images from Veazie Vet Clinic                                  Hip dysplasia can be diagnosed with
website 2013                                                   physical examination and x-rays by
                                                               your veterinarian. Hip dysplasia can
                                                               occur at any age, and tends to be seen
                                                               in larger framed cats, and is seen in
                                                               males more than females, although any
                                                               animal may be affected. Radiographic
                                                               studies have estimated the prevalence
                                                               of hip dysplasia in the feline population
                                                               (in the USA) at around 6.6%.

                                                                 Certain breed predispositions are
                                                                 recognised, and a study in Maine
                                Coon cats showed that 50% had evidence of hip dysplasia on x-ray
                                screening. Not all cats with x-ray evidence of hip dysplasia will show
                                any clinical signs of disease, and signs that do occur may range from
                                very mild to severe, debilitating pain. Screening programs for breeding
                                animals are available in several countries, including through the
                                Orthopedic Foundation for Animals in the USA. In Sweden a registry
                                has been kept for Maine Coon cats since 2000, and in that country the
                                prevalence of hip dysplasia in the breed is 32%. This registry has also
                                demonstrated that parents with normal hips produce less offspring
                                with hip dysplasia than do parents with unknown hip score. This
                                underscores the value of screening to reduce the incidence of disease.

                                Treatment of hip dysplasia may include anti-inflammatory medication
                                and supplementation with glucosamine and chondroitin (to help
  Screening for hip             maintain healthy joint cartilage). There are also several options for
  dysplasia:                    surgery available. The most common treatment is to remove the head
  1. X-ray screening (taken     and neck of the femur (the “ball” part of the joint) and allow the
  between 12-24 months
  of age and assessed by        supporting soft tissues to continue to function as the joint. In almost
  a certified veterinary        all cases this will allow the hip to have an almost normal range of
  radiologist) should be        motion, but will get rid of the bone-on-bone contact, which is what
  considered for breeding       causes the pain. The cat will then be able to engage in all of her
  animals. Breeding             normal cat activities.
  registries are available in
  a number of areas.
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        Genetic Disease

                                 3. Spinal Muscular Atrophy
                                 Spinal muscular atrophy (SMA) is an inherited disorder that appears
                                 similar to the disease of the same name seen in humans. It is seen in
                                 Maine Coon cats, and is inherited as an autosomal recessive disorder,
                                 meaning that a copy of the mutation is passed to an affected kitten
                                 from both parents.

                                 The disease affects the nerve cells in the spinal cord that travel to
                                 skeletal muscle of the body (trunk) and legs. These nerve bodies are
                                 lost in the first few months of life, leading to weakness and wasting
                                 of the muscles of the body. Signs are generally first seen at 15 - 17
                                 weeks of age, and initial signs include weakness in the hind legs
                                 and a very fine tremor in the muscles. Kittens will tire easily and will
                                 develop an odd gait, with a swaying in the hindquarters. By 5 months
                                 of age they are generally too weak to jump, and examination reveals
                                 that muscles of the limbs and body are reduced in size.

                                 The condition is progressive, and initially worsens quite quickly,
                                 however it is not painful and generally not fatal. The condition generally
                                 stabilises with the cat suffering a variable degree of weakness and
     Screening for spinal        loss of mobility. Cats are not incontinent, but can have a restricted
     muscular atrophy:           range of mobility and exercise intolerance. Affected cats are disabled
     1. Genetic testing of       and with care and lifestyle changes are able to live comfortably
     all breeding animals        indoors. There is a genetic test available for this disease, and breeding
     recommended prior           animals can be tested to ensure two carriers are not mated, which
     to entering breeding        will prevent affected kittens from being produced.
     program (e.g. at 4 months
     to 1 year of age).
                                 4. Patellar Luxation
                                 Luxation means dislocation, and patellar luxation refers to a dislocating
                                 kneecap. The patella (kneecap) is a bone that normally sits at the
                                 front of the stifle joint (knee) in a groove at the end of the thigh
                                 bone (or femur). The patella is embedded in a ligament that joins
                                 the quadriceps muscle of the thigh to the lower leg bone (the tibia).
                                 The patella helps keep this ligament in place while the muscles are
                                 working and the knee is bending and straightening because it stays
                                 in the bony groove of the femur (called the trochlear groove).

                                 With patellar luxation, the patella is able to move out of this groove
                                 during straightening of the joint. This usually happens in cats because
                                 the trochlear groove is too shallow or sometimes if the patellar
                                 ligament is attached to the tibia off centre and pulls the patella
                                 sideways. Usually the patella luxates towards the inside (or towards
                                 the opposite leg), which is called medial luxation.
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   Genetic Disease

                           Patellar luxation can occur rarely in any breed of cat, but is more
                           common in the Devon Rex, Abyssinian, Maine Coon and Bengal, and
                           is thought to have a genetic component in these breeds. It is also
                           seen more commonly in association with hip dysplasia. Signs may
                           start to develop commonly around 4-6 months after birth. Patellar
                           luxation causes lameness because the cat cannot bend its knee
                           while the patella is out of place. This may cause the cat to walk with
                           her back leg out to the side, or run with a skipping step for a short
                           period. Most affected cats learn to kick their leg out to the side to
                           snap the patella back into place. Once this happens they can walk
                           normally again.

                           Patellar luxation can be graded from 1 to 4, with grade 1 being mild
                           and grade 4 being most severe.
                           Because the movement of the luxating patella wears away at the edge
                           of the trochlear groove (i.e. the bone) the condition leads to painful
                           arthritis over time. Once arthritis develops, it cannot be reversed. The
                           loss of the bone of the groove also generally means that the patella
                           will luxate more easily over time, and so will slip out of place more
                           and more often. Patellar luxation also predisposes the knee to other
                           injuries, especially cruciate ligament rupture.

                           Grade 1 patellar luxation may be tolerated by a cat for many years
                           without problems, however surgical correction is recommended for
                           the other grades. The sooner surgical correction is performed, the less
                           likely a cat is to develop painful arthritis as she ages. The outcome
Screening for patellar     with surgery if it is undertaken before the development of arthritis
luxation:                  is generally excellent, however if arthritis is already present in the
1. Examination and         joint it may continue to progress, even after surgery is performed.
manipulation at 6 months   Luxating patella is diagnosed by manipulation by your veterinarian,
of age.                    and grading is made with the assistance of x-rays. Radiography also
2. Reassess at 12 months   assists in assessing any other changes or problems in the joint.
+/- radiography if
required.
                           5. Cystic Renal Disease
                           Polycystic kidney disease (PKD) is an inherited disease that affects the
                           kidneys. PKD is thought to be the most prevalent inherited disease in
                           cats. PKD is an autosomal dominant disease that is seen in Persians,
                           Persian-related breeds, and cats with Persian ancestry. Various studies
                           and surveys have reported around 36% of Persians are affected by
                           PKD. However it is believed that this prevalence is now decreasing
                           due to the availability of a genetic test for the disease in this breed,
                           and due to concerted efforts by breeders to reduce the prevalence
                           of the disease amongst their breeding stock.
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        Genetic Disease

                                  In some other breeds, a similar disease has been recognised, but
                                  genetic studies have shown that this type of cystic renal disease is
                                  not caused by the same genetic mutation as PKD recognised in the
                                  Persian and related breeds. For example, in the Maine Coon, studies
                                  have not been able to locate a common genetic mutation in cats
                                  affected with renal cysts. In this breed there may be only a single
                                  cyst in one kidney, or multiple cysts that tend to be relatively small.
                                  This is obviously different to the disease in Persians, where the entire
                                  kidney can become filled with a lot of sometimes very large cysts,
                                  with very little normal kidney remaining.

                                  Whereas PKD will lead to kidney failure in many affected cats, cystic
                                  renal disease in non-Persian breeds does not necessarily cause any
                                  clinical renal disease. Sometimes it may lead to chronic renal failure,
                                  but it may not, as the cysts in the kidney either do not become big
                                  enough to damage enough of the kidney tissue, or there is only a
                                  single cyst in one kidney and the other kidney is functioning normally.
                                  When renal failure occurs, it causes the common signs of increased
                                  water intake and increased urination, weight loss, decreased appetite,
                                  loss of condition, dehydration and intermittent vomiting.

                                  Cystic renal disease is diagnosed by ultrasound of the kidneys to
     Screening for cystic         demonstrate cysts. There is no genetic test as yet for breeds other
     renal disease:               than the Persian and Persian-related breeds. Repeat ultrasound may
     1. Ultrasound screening of   be required in some cases, however most cats will have cysts apparent
     kidneys at 10-12 months      by the age of 1 year. At this time is would be recommended to not
     of age.                      breed affected animals, although the mode of inheritance is not yet
     2. Repeat screen may be      understood.
     indicated at 18-24 months
     of age.
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Other Conditions     These conditions are also seen with a higher than usual incidence in
                     the Maine Coon. These conditions may not be as common as those
Which Are Less       covered in more detail above, or may have less of an impact on the
Common or Less       cat’s health and welfare when they occur. This is not a complete list
Devastating In the   of every disease that the Maine Coon may experience.
Breed
                     Combined factor I & XI deficiency
                     Polydactyly (extra toes)
                     Merosin deficient myopathy
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     Caring For Your Maine Coon
17

Caring for your Maine Coon

Caring for your              So, now you know a little bit more about your breed of cat!
Maine Coon                   Cats are wonderful companions, as any cat owner knows. There is
                             nothing quite like the comfort of a purring cat curled up on your
                             lap. Cats certainly are individuals, each with their own personality
                             and quirks that we, as their carers, must accommodate. All cats are
                             creatures of habit, and thrive on routine and familiarity. We need to
                             avoid upsetting the routine of our feline friends as much as possible,
                             or run the risk of any one of a multitude of stress and anxiety related
                             problems and illnesses.

                             In this guide we will outline some of the basic information that
                             will help you provide your cat with the care they require for a long,
                             happy and healthy life. We will focus on the very specific nutritional
                             needs of the cat, and we will also look in particular on the care and
                             requirements of the indoor cat. Responsible pet ownership means
                             that we must ensure that our cat is not just regularly fed, but that
                             she is safe, happy, healthy and protected from harm at all times.
                             Contrary to some commonly held beliefs, cats do not need to roam
                             to be happy. Indeed, a cat spends around 18 hours a day sleeping,
                             and is perfectly happy living an indoor life, especially if raised this
                             way from kitten hood. Studies have shown that the average lifespan
                             of an indoor cat is over 12 years, while that of an outdoor cat is less
                             than 5 years.

                             Outdoor cats are exposed to many risks, including traffic, dogs, the risk
                             of injury from other cats, the risk of exposure to infectious diseases
                             (such as FIV), as well as the risk from poisons (whether intentional
                             or not), snakebite and malicious injury from humans. Less than 5%
                             of cats that end up in shelters return to their homes, and less than
                             30% will be rehomed with another family. Almost all animal health
                             professionals and animal welfare experts agree that cats should be
                             housed indoors, due to the much greater health and welfare benefits.
                             For further information on responsible pet ownership,              . An
                             indoor cat can still explore the outdoors, either with the provision
                             of a cat run, or by training to use a harness and lead. This will be
                             covered in more detail later.

                             Healthy Cat Plan

                             We have looked at some of the more common and/or severe diseases
                             that your breed of cat may be prone to, and we will also look at how
                             you and your vet can plan together a preventative health initiative
                             to reduce the risks of your cat developing any of these illnesses, or
                             if she does to ensure that it is detected as early as possible, so that
                             it can be treated early with as little impact on your cat’s quality of
                             life as possible. Remember, just because these diseases are more
                             common in your breed does not mean she will necessarily go on to
                             develop any of them, it is just an increase in risk.
18

 Caring for your Maine Coon

Recommended schedule
for taking your Maine Coon to see your vet
 AGE                       What The Vet Does                                 Diseases Tested For                                                  Other Things Done At This Visit
 6-9 weeks                 Full examination.                                 Kitten eye exam.                                                     Weigh, assess body condition
                           First vaccination for core                        Check for heart murmurs.                                             and growth rate.
                           feline vaccines.                                  Hearing test in white kittens.                                       Discuss nutrition and kitten
                           Check and treat parasites.                                                                                             care.
                                                                                                                                                  Discuss kitten kindy classes.
 12-13 weeks               Full examination.                                 Recheck eyes.                                                        Weigh, assess body condition
                           Revaccinate all kittens every                     Check for heart murmurs.                                             and growth rate.
                           3-4 weeks until 16 weeks of                                                                                            Kitten classes held between
                           age.                                                                                                                   12-14 weeks.
 16-17 weeks               Full examination.                                 Recheck eyes.                                                        Weigh, assess body condition
                           Final kitten vaccination                          Check for heart murmurs - fully investigate                          and growth rate.
                           should occur at minimum age                       any murmur present.                                                  Discuss ongoing nutrition
                           of 16 weeks.                                      Check for patellar luxation.                                         needs.
                           Ensure parasite control plan                                                                                           If required prepare for
                           in place.                                                                                                              desexing - e.g. blood tests,
                                                                                                                                                  DNA testing, blood typing,
                                                                                                                                                  retroviral testing.
 12-26 weeks*              Full examination.                                 Examine teeth, joints etc fully whilst under                         Weigh, assess body condition
                           Desexing is undertaken at                         GA.                                                                  and growth rate.
                           some time up to 6 months of                       Consider DNA testing - eg HCM,SMA.                                   Discuss ongoing nutrition
                           age.*                                                                                                                  needs.
 1 year                    Annual full examination.                          Eye check, heart check - consider                                    Weigh, assess body condition.
                           1st booster vaccination for                       echocardiography annually.                                           Discuss ongoing nutrition
                           core vaccines.                                    Hip dysplasia screening +/- patellar                                 needs.
                           Discuss non-core vaccine                          screening.
                           requirement with your vet                         Consider renal ultrasound.
                           (e.g. FIV).
 2-7 years                 Annual full examination.                          Consider retinal check - for hypertension.                           Weigh, assess body condition.
                           Core vaccines recommended                         Check heart.                                                         Discuss ongoing nutrition
                           to be given no more than                          Consider renal ultrasound 18-24 months.                              needs.
                           every 3 years (your vet will
                           discuss your cat’s individual
                           needs).
 7-10 years                Annual full mature cat                            Consider retinal check - for hypertension.                           Weigh, assess body condition,
                           examination.                                      Check heart.                                                         muscle score.
                           Continue with individualised                      Minimum data base collection annually -                              Assess movement and
                           vaccination plan as discussed                     CBC, Biochem panel, UA, faecal +/- T4, BP.#                          cognition.
                           with your vet.                                                                                                         Discuss ongoing nutrition
                                                                                                                                                  needs for mature cat.
 10-15 years               Full senior cat examination                       Add to minimum data base T4 and BP,                                  Weigh, assess body condition,
                           every 6 months.                                   continue annually. #                                                 muscle score.
                                                                             Check heart.                                                         Assess movement and
                                                                             Nutritional assessment.                                              cognition.
                                                                                                                                                  Discuss ongoing nutrition
                                                                                                                                                  needs.
 15+ years                 Full geriatric cat examination                    Continue minimum data base annually. #                               Weigh, assess body condition,
                           every 6 months.                                   Check heart.                                                         muscle score.
                                                                             Nutritional assessment.                                              Assess movement and
                                                                                                                                                  cognition, sleep cycle etc.
                                                                                                                                                  Discuss ongoing nutrition
                                                                                                                                                  needs.

* Due to council laws in some Australian states, desexing before 3 months is required for reduced registration   Blue: This is the time when your cat is a kitten, a true child!
fees, and hence may be requested more commonly than previously. Female cats can come into oestrus by             Green: This is when your cat is an adolescent, or young adult.
4 months of age, and many studies have shown no adverse health effects due to early desexing, however            Yellow: This is when your cat is an adult.
                                                                                                                 Orange: This is when your cat is considered a “mature” (or middle-aged) cat.
your vet will assess the risks to your cat on a case-by-case basis.                                              Red: This is the time when your cat is a “senior”.
                                                                                                                 Purple: This is when your cat is considered to be “geriatric” (an old-timer!).
# As recommended by American Association of Feline Practioners Senior Care Guidelines (2008).
19

 Caring for your Maine Coon

   Checked                          √ Details

Note there can be some overlap in the ages at which your cat moves through the different life stages, just as there is for people. These coloured stages are a guide only.
20

     Cat’s Paradise
21

       Cat's Paradise

                                  A new cat or kitten in the house is a wonderful time, full of fun and new
Making Your Home
                                  discoveries for both your feline friend and you. However, there are several
a Cat’s Paradise                  essentials that you are going to need, to ensure that your cat settles in to
                                  her new indoor home happily and with as little stress as possible.

                                  1. The Litter Box
                                  There are a number of types of litter box available, ranging from a basic
                                  pan type, up to automatic self-cleaning boxes and litter boxes designed
                                  to look like furniture items. Most cats will do fine with your basic plastic
                                  pan type of litter box (also known as a litter tray, see Fig 1). Some cats
                                  prefer the added privacy of covered litter boxes (see Fig 2), however many
                                  will not use these as they feel trapped by them, and they do also require
                                  more frequent cleaning, as odours tend to build up within them, which
                                  may cause a cat (with her very sensitive sense of smell) to avoid using one
                                  altogether. Some cats prefer to stand up to wee, and in this case a litter
                                  box with tall sides is needed. This type of litter box may also be preferred
                                  with a cat who loves to dig and throw litter all over the place while in the
                                  litter box. A tall-sided litter box can easily be made by purchasing a large,
                                  smooth-sided storage box (without wheels) and cutting out a doorway in
                                  one end. This option also has the advantage of being roomier for your cat
                                  to move around in. Be sure to smooth off the edges of the door once you
                                  have cut it out – your cat will thank you for having such a spacious, well
                                  designed bathroom! (See Fig 5a & 5b).

Fig 1. Basic pan-type litter tray      Fig 2. Covered litter box         Fig 3. Litter box concealed as furniture

Fig 4. Automatic self-cleaning box Fig 5a. Make your own high-                 Fig 5b. Or you can buy a high-
                                       sided litter box from a storage         sided litter box
                                       box – plenty of room, less mess
22

     Cat's Paradise

                           2. Litter
                           Various types of litter are available, and the type you use will largely
                           depend on your cats’ preference. Avoid scented litters, as these are likely
                           to be unwelcome to you cats very highly developed sense of smell. Also
                           avoid litters that tend to leave dust, as these may lead to respiratory
                           problems. Clumping litters should not be used for young kittens; if they
                           are accidentally ingested they can lead to intestinal blockage and possibly
                           death. Clumping litters may allow waste to be more easily removed from
                           an adult cat’s litter tray, or a quieter and less sharp litter, such as recycled
                           paper pellets, may be preferred. Offer several different types to see what
                           your cat prefers. Cats are creatures of habit, and in general you should
                           stick with one that your cat is happy with. Regardless, the litter box should
                           have waste cleaned from it at least twice a day, and should be completely
                           emptied and thoroughly cleaned at least once a week. Do not use bleach or
                           ammonia containing cleaners on the tray – bicarb soda or a mild detergent
                           will clean the tray and will not leave a smell behind that may put your cat
                           off using the tray in future! Just make sure you clean the tray/s thoroughly
                           and rinse all traces of detergent off them.

                           3. Food and Water
                           Your cat’s food and water bowls should be located in another “safe” place
                           (quiet and out of high traffic zones) well away from the litter box area.
                           Nobody wants to eat where they poop! Some cats can also be funny about
                           drinking where they eat, so it is a good idea to have several water bowls at
                           various locations around the house. We will discuss food and cat nutrition
                           separately later, but food bowls should be clean for each meal, and water
                           bowls cleaned with a small amount of detergent, rinsed thoroughly and
                           refilled each day. This prevents bacteria from building up on the inside
                           walls of the water bowl and fouling the water.
                           Bowls should be wide enough that a cat can drink freely without her
                           whiskers touching the sides of the bowl. Whiskers are sensory organs,
                           used by cats for navigating in the dark and helping them to orientate and
                           kill their prey with one bite. They are very sensitive to touch, and some
                           cats do not like the feeling of them touching the sides of the bowl, and

      Fig 6. Ceramic water fountain               Fig 7. Stainless steel food bowls
23

      Cat's Paradise

                                this may lead them to be reluctant to drink. Plates are sometimes a better
                                option than bowls for feeding. Ensure that bowls are not too big if you
                                have a kitten, so that she can easily reach her food and water, and that if
                                she falls in she can easily get out (of a water bowl).

                                All bowls should be slip resistant and heavy enough that they are hard
                                to tip over. Some cats like to play in their water when drinking, and it is
                                important that they cannot tip over the water bowl when doing so. These
                                cats may do very well with an automatic drinking fountain, as they seem
                                attracted by the constantly moving water, which may encourage them to
                                drink more. Ceramic fountains are also easy to clean and almost all varieties
                                come with filters for removing dust and dropped hair from the water (Fig. 6).

                                The best types of bowls for food and water are heavy ceramic or stainless
                                steel. Stainless steel is an excellent surface and can help keep water cool
                                in summer, but can be prone to tipping over, so ensure it has a well seated,
                                slip resistant base (Fig. 7). Plastic tends to develop microscopic cracks, and
                                these can harbour bacteria, which will resist cleaning. This can lead to a
                                skin condition similar to blackheads on your cats chin. If using plastic ware,
                                ensure that you replace it frequently. A rubber “cat dinner mat” under the
                                bowls also helps prevent bowls moving, and catches any spills.

                                                 4. Cat Furniture
                                               Scratching is a natural behaviour for cats. It helps them to
                                               remove the old outer sheath from their claws, and stretches
                                               out their tendons and muscles. Scratching also leaves
                                               scent marks, which helps them to mark their territory. You
                                               cannot stop a cat from scratching, but by providing her
                                               with scratching furniture, you can ensure that she does
                                               not tear up your expensive couch or carpet! Some cats
Fig. 8. Cardboard scratching pad               prefer to scratch vertically (up a post) while others like to
                                               scratch horizontally (along the floor). Scratching furniture
                                               for cats comes in a large range of styles, and to suit all
                              budgets. At the bottom of the range there are “over the door” hanging
                              mats and cardboard mats for the floor (Fig. 8). These are great if you are
                              limited for space, or on a tight budget. You can even make your own out
                              of old cardboard boxes (see this link for a great               ).

                                You have probably seen the traditional scratching post (Fig. 9), which often
                                comes covered in either carpet or sisal rope. Note that woven sisal fabric
                                tends to be a bit more “claw-friendly” than the rope, and I have certainly
                                known plenty of cats that refuse to use their nice new scratching post,
                                simply because they don’t like the sisal rope on it!

Fig. 9. Woven Sisal
Scratching Post
24

      Cat's Paradise

                            There is now a huge variety of cat furniture available that not only caters to
                            the feline need to scratch, but also provides climbing and perching options
                            for your cat, as well as hiding spaces. These are often referred to as cat
                            trees or cat condos, and are the top of the range in cat furniture (Fig. 10).
                            Always ensure any cat furniture has a solid, heavy base and is not easy to
                            tip over. A cat perch, or elevated resting area, is another important piece
                            of cat furniture. Often placed near a window where a cat can look out and
                            watch the world go by, a perch provides the cat with somewhere where
                            she can rest up high, where she will feel safe, and look down on what is
                            going on around her. Of course, a cat tree is not necessary to provide this
                            requirement – a blanket or towel on top of a wardrobe or bookcase works
                            just fine as well!

                            Fig. 10a. Cat tree/condo                  Fig. 10b. Cat tower

Cat Perch – with internal                                  Numerous websites advertise cat furniture
hiding areas                                               like those shown above, a popular site in
                                                           Australia is Funky Cat Feline Furniture – see
                                                                       but a search for cat furniture
                                                           or scratching posts will turn up plenty of
                                                           options to look at.

                                                           A scratching post should be provided for
                                                           each cat in the house, and is best located in
                                                           communal/living areas, or in thoroughfares
                                                           leading to where the cat’s food and litter
                                                           is located (e.g. in the hall).
25

      Cat's Paradise

                             5. The Bed
                             You will need to decide from the start whether you want your cat or kitten
                             to sleep in your bed or in her own bed. If you are happy to share your
                             bed, that is fine, but just remember that your cute new kitten will go on
                             to be a fully grown cat and will be sharing your bed for possibly 15 or
                             more years. The cat is a notorious bed hog, and many also make excellent
                             alarm clocks, ready with a purr and polite poke to the face if you happen
                             to sleep through breakfast time. If you decide you do not want to share
                             your bed with your cat, you need to provide her with her own bed right
                             from the start. Remember that cats are creatures of habit, and changes in
                             routine can lead to problems with stress and anxiety.

                                       You can buy a cat bed, but remember your cat will be just as
                                       happy with a warm blanket or fleece in a box. Cats love to be
                                       warm and snug, and kittens especially may need an extra source
                                       of warmth in their bed at first. Some cat beds come with an inbuilt
                                       heating pad (Fig. 11) – ensure that any heating source does not
                                       heat above 41°C, as a cat’s skin is much more sensitive to heat
                                       damage and burning than ours. Never use a running electric
                                       blanket to warm a kitten, as this can lead to nasty burns. If you
                                       need to provide a young kitten with heat, a wheat pack can be
                                       warmed in the microwave and placed underneath her blankets
                                       to provide somewhere warm to curl up to. Otherwise place her
Fig. 11. Heated cat bed by             bed near a heating vent so that the air around her does not get
Kitty Kat Relax                        too cold.
(low level heat; 28°C)
                             6. The Retreat/Refuge
                             All cats need to have somewhere they can retreat to and feel safe. This
                             should be in a quiet room away from the main traffic areas of the house,
                             where they have a safe and warm resting area. They should also have food,
                             water and litter available in this room, as well as a perch, and children
                             should be taught not to follow cats into the refuge area. Each cat should
                             have her own refuge area to which she can retreat and where she will
                             not be disturbed.

                             7. Environmental Enrichment
                             Cats do need exercise. Although they spend much of their time sleeping,
                             they do become bored, just as we do, if they have nothing to stimulate
                             them, and exercise is also important for their health and to help avoid
                             obesity. There are a multitude of toys available to entertain cats with,
                             and again, you can make cat toys out of the simplest household items.
                             Cardboard boxes are a favourite with many cats, as are aluminium foil
                             balls, ping pong balls and pipe cleaners or feathers tied to a piece of string
                             and pulled along the floor for them to chase. Some cats prefer “bird-like”
                             toys, for example swatting at airborne toys, while others are happiest with
26

      Cat's Paradise

                               “mouse-like” toys that they can chase around on the ground. It is also a
                               good idea to have a variety of toys and to change between different toys
                               periodically for variety. It is important to make time to play with your cat
                               each day, and this will provide you will some good bonding time with your
                               cat as well as good exercise for her.

                                              Tunnels, scratching posts and climbing furniture are all great
                                              ways for cats to get some exercise whilst having fun, especially
                                              in a multi-cat household. However, not all cats will get along
                                              and want to play with each other, and if this is the case you
                                              will need to spend time with each one individually, giving
                                              them their own special “me” time for play and exercise.

                               There are a wide variety of products now available for cat entertainment
                               when you cannot be at home. DVDs can be purchased that are designed
Tunnels are great to play in   to attract the attention of cats (e.g. swimming fish,             ). The choice
and many cats love them        for today’s cat lover is virtually never ending, and is only limited by your
                               imagination.

                               You may also wish for your cat to be able to experience the great outdoors
                               once in a while. Many companies now provide various types of cat runs,
                               which are designed to let your cat explore the back yard in complete safety
                               (Fig. 12). You can also build your own cat run. With some nylon mesh a
                               balcony, veranda or the side of a yard can easily be enclosed so that your

Feathers are popular toys
to chase

                               Fig 12. A balcony enclosure by Cat Walk City
27

Cat's Paradise

                 cat is able to explore the outdoors without being able to wander and get
                 into trouble.                 also installs cat runs and balcony enclosures for
                 renters, which can be dismantled without leaving damage to the property.

                 Any outdoor enclosure should always have a shaded area for your cat to
                 rest in. Cats, just like us, can be affected by sunburn and can also develop
                 skin cancers. This tends to occur where the hair is thinnest, on the nose,
                 eyelids and ears, for example. Again, with cat enclosures, modular cat runs
                 and DIY projects of this type, you are only limited by your imagination. As a
                 student I purchased a cheap aviary shed at a second hand shop, furnished it
                 with tree stumps, a pot of cat grass and a couple of hand-made cat perches,
                 and my cats had a great little shaded outdoor run for less than $200.

                 A DIY cat enclosure at the front of a house using nylon mesh and steel
                 cabling from CatNets.com.au, which the cats access from a window.
                 See lots more cat enclosure ideas at the

                 You can also train a cat to walk on a lead with a harness (Fig. 13). Cats
                 generally will not “go for a walk” as a dog does, but they can go out and
                 explore the outdoors with you this way, and get a bit of extra exercise.
                 Training cats to a harness and lead is generally easiest when done as a
                 kitten. Some cats are just anxious about new things, and don’t cope well
                 with this, however many cats will do great if you take the training slowly.
                 Often the more outgoing breeds take to this training the best (e.g. a
                 Burmese). Like anything with cats, never force them to do something they
                 are not comfortable doing. See the following
28

     Cat's Paradise

Fig 13. Cat harness and
bungee leash

                          Many people associated with cats will recommend that indoor cats have a
                          pot of “cat grass” available. Cat grass generally refers to the common oat,
                          although often wheat or barley is also sold at cat grass. Various theories
                          have been proposed as to why some cats like to eat young grass, but to
                          date there is no scientific validation as to why cats eat grass. It does not
                          appear to be a requirement for their health, but it probably does no harm
                          in small amounts either. Some cats will eat grass and then vomit, so this
                          is something to watch for if you are introducing cat grass into the house.
                          Usually cats will just nibble at the grass from time to time.
                          Catnip is a separate plant, distinct from cat grass, and is an herb from
                          the mint family. The leaves and stem contain nepetalactone, the main
                          active ingredient in catnip essential oil. Catnip produces a “high” in cats
                          that respond to it, and acts via special receptors located in the olfactory
                          epithelium. Hence it acts via the cat’s sense of smell, not by the cat eating
                          it. Not all cats respond to nepetalactone, and it is thought that the response

                          Cat grass                              Catnip (Nepeta cataria)
29

Cat's Paradise

                 is inherited as a dominant trait in cats. Estimates vary widely, but suggest
                 that 10 – 40% of cats do not respond to the effects of catnip. This is believed
                 to be higher in cats in Australia and Asia, where as many as 60% do not
                 respond to catnip. Kittens also will not respond to catnip until between
                 3 – 6 months of age, and often show an aversion to catnip when young.

                 Catnip generally induces rubbing and rolling behaviour in cats (for an
                 example, see           ), although some may become hyperactive, or become
                 aggressive and growl if approached. Catnip affects a number of wild cat
                 species as well as domestic cats. The effect will usually last around 10
                 minutes, after which time there will be a period of refractoriness, where
                 the cat will not respond again for 1 - 2 hours. Catnip is not harmful to your
                 cat, and they will not overdose on it – when they have had enough they
                 will leave it alone. You can grow catnip and offer small pieces to your cat
                 once in a while, or you can dry the leaves for use in toys. Many toys for
                 cats now will contain dried catnip, as an added attractant. Catnip is also
                 reported to repel cockroaches and mosquitoes, as well as rats and mice,
                 who supposedly will avoid places where it grows. Picked or dried catnip
                 loses potency over time, and will need to be replaced regularly.

                 A Word about Kittens

                 We have mentioned kittens above, but there is some information that
                 is important to cover specifically if you are bringing home a new kitten.
                 Apart from a warm bed, litter type and feeding, which we will cover in
                 Cat Nutrition, we also need to discuss the differences in kitten behaviour
                 and protecting your kitten from injury.

                 Kittens are very playful, and if they were with their mother and littermates
                 they would play fight a lot, as this is how they learn the skills of hunting. They
                 would also learn something called “bite inhibition” from their littermates
                 and mother, because if they hurt one of their feline family, this other cat
                 would let them know. A littermate would cry out and stop playing with
                 them, and their mother would discipline them if they were too rough with
                 their biting. It is very tempting for us to “play rough” with a small kitten,
                 however as this kitten grows bigger, they can very easily draw blood with
                 their sharp teeth and claws. It is confusing for your kitten if you play rough
                 with her initially, only to yell at her or stop allowing her to play with you
                 as she grows. You should decide early if you wish to allow your kitten to
                 engage in play fighting with you. Alternatives are soft toys provided for her
                 to “attack”. Some people wear gardening gloves so that they are protected
                 from their kitten’s teeth and claws.
30

      Cat's Paradise

                              Be aware that play fighting is a normal behaviour for kittens, and some
                              will lie in wait for you and “attack” you from a hiding space. Aggressive
                              posturing is a normal learning phase for kittens, as can be seen in this
                              video (           ).

                              Always remember that kittens are small and easily injured. They are also
                              quick and can have a tendency to get under your feet! If your kitten wants
                              to climb onto higher furniture, provide objects to allow her to get up and
                              down in a stepwise manner, as large jumps may injure her growing joints
                              and bones. Kittens are curious by nature, and learn by exploring and
                              experiencing their world. Do not try to stop a kitten climbing – rather,
                              ensure your kitten has a safe environment to climb and explore in.
                              This is also the time where your kitten will be most open to training for
                              things such as walking on a harness and lead, going in a carry box to “Kitten
                              Kindy”, and learning to have her teeth brushed (          ).
                              All activities should be introduced as fun exercises, and you should never
                              scold your kitten if she is nervous or apprehensive about a new activity
                              – this will just reinforce that it is something unpleasant that she does not
                              want to do. Have patience and use treats, and always give your kitten a
                              safe retreat to go to if she is unsure.

                              A kitten kindergarten is a great place for your kitten to learn social skills,
                              begin training and gain confidence (Fig. 14). This is just as important for cats
                              as it is for dogs. You will also learn how to go about successfully training
                              your kitten. Generally these classes will only run for 2 or 3 weeks, as kittens
                              are only really open to this kind of social activity between around 7 and
                              14 weeks of age. “Kitten Kindy” is one Australian program designed by
                              veterinary behaviour specialist Dr Kersti Seksel. Contact your local vet or
                              the Australian Small Animal Veterinary Association (ASAVA) to see if there
                              is a Kitten Kindy at a clinic near you. These programs are now very popular
                              in the USA. You can read more about

Fig 14. Kittens at kindergarten class
31

Cat Nutrition
32

     Cat Nutrition

Cat Nutrition        The first thing that we must remember is that the cat is a strict carnivore,
                     and so relies upon nutrients found solely in animal tissues to meet her
                     specific nutritional requirements. The cat has evolved eating a diet of
                     mainly small rodents, as well as birds and small lizards, and in her natural
                     desert environment would typically have eaten 8 - 10+ small meals a day.
                     This diet was high in protein, contained a moderate amount of fat, and
                     was low in carbohydrate (see table 1).

                     Table 1. Ideal/Natural Cat Diet
                                                   (% of calories)
                     Protein                               More than 50
                     Fat                                   30 - 40
                     Carbohydrates                         < 10
                                               (% of diet, approx.)
                     Moisture                              60 - 70
                     Calcium                               1.2
                     Phosphorus                            1.0
                     Fibre                                 1.2

                     More and more specialists in feline internal medicine now recommend
                     feeding cats a diet of canned (moist or wet) cat food, and NOT dry
                     kibble. There are three main reasons why dry food is not considered an
                     appropriate food for cats:

                     1. The water content is too low (most important!).
                     2. The carbohydrate content is too high.
                     3. The type of protein is inappropriate (i.e. plant-based instead of animal-
                     based protein).

                     Without looking at specific brands of canned cat foods, think in terms of
                     the broad principle that ANY canned food is better than ANY dry food.

                     Many cat food companies (and some vets) will tell you that all wet food
                     diets will lead to dental disease and that you must feed dry food to avoid
                     this - in their natural environment this is not how cats clean their teeth!
                     Cats keep their teeth clean mainly by tearing into fresh meat, with a
                     smaller contribution from crunching the bones of the occasional larger
                     kill (Most small kills such as mice are eaten virtually whole). A cat’s saliva
                     is also well designed to keep her teeth clean, if her diet is appropriate
                     for her as a carnivore. Feeding occasional large pieces of cooked meat
                     (without bones) is one way to help keep your cat’s teeth clean. We will
                     cover dental health more later.
33

Cat Nutrition

                Dogs, being omnivores like us, do require some meat protein in their diet,
                but they have evolved essentially as scavengers, and are able to utilise
                nutrients found in plants as well as animals. Cats are very different to
                dogs. They lack many of the enzymes and metabolic processes within
                the body that allow dogs to process nutrients from plants. Cats are also
                unable to make for themselves many of the essential nutrients that
                dogs can synthesise within their bodies - such as essential amino acids,
                vitamins, and fatty acids. An example of this is vitamin D - cats cannot
                convert vitamin D to its active form in the skin with exposure to UV light
                from the sun, as dogs and people do. They must eat active vitamin D,
                which is found in animal tissues.

                Cat Food - What to Feed?

                So what should we really be feeding our cats? With the widespread use of
                the internet and the ready access to a wealth of information it provides,
                the question then arises as to what information is accurate and reliable?
                There are a vast number of websites claiming to have “expert” opinion on
                what to feed cats, how to make food for cats, and even how to feed cats
                a vegan diet! Being an obligate carnivore means that the cat is obligated
                to eat meat to get the nutrients that she needs to survive and thrive. Be
                careful of misleading internet sites on this topic, however well-meaning
                they may be. For a good, detailed discussion on cat nutrition if you would
                like further information on the topic, please see the articles written by Dr
                Lisa A. Pierson at www.catinfo.org or speak to your vet.

                The first question we need to address is commercial food vs. homemade
                diets. The formulation of a homemade diet that is complete and balanced
                for the cat is very challenging, for the following reasons:
                • The cat has very specific and complex nutritional requirements, due
                     to the fact that the cat is unable to make sufficient amounts of many
                     nutrients for herself.
                • Nutrients, especially vitamins and minerals, need to be present in the
                     correct ratios to one another.
                • The diet must be palatable (that is, the cat must like the taste of it
                     and want to eat it).
                • Nutrients such as thiamine can easily be lost by cooking, or by using
                     certain ingredients such as raw fish or “pet mince” - which may
                     contain sulphur dioxide, a preservative that destroys thiamine.
                • Spoilage and bacterial contamination can easily occur without correct
                     preparation and storage.

                If you have a strong desire towards home cooking for your cat, Dr Pierson
                does have some information on this on her website. We will not cover it
                here, as it generally is too difficult to do well for most cat owners.
34

     Cat Nutrition

                     Commercial Cat Foods

                     Commercial cat foods do vary widely in their quality, but with a little care
                     you can obtain a decent range of food that is of good quality and that
                     your cat will enjoy. Cats can become very attached to the flavour of fish,
                     to the exclusion of all other foods. However, many feline nutritionists do
                     not recommend feeding fish to cats. Certainly you should not feed raw
                     fish to cats, as raw fish contains thiaminase, which destroys the essential
                     B vitamin thiamine. Cooking the fish inactivates the thiaminase, but may
                     also destroy the thiamine. Also, fish may contain certain chemicals (called
                     PBDEs) which have possible links to hyperthyroidism in cats.

                     So the basic things that we need to look at in the cat food we buy is the
                     protein level in a food, the type of protein that is present (i.e. to ensure
                     that the protein comes from animal sources, not grain or vegetable) and
                     that it is fully balanced with all the vitamins and minerals that our cat
                     requires.

                     The easiest way to choose a good cat food is to check the ingredient
                     list and pick one that does not contain grains or cereals, contains
                     protein from animal sources such as chicken, turkey or duck (try to
                     avoid fish all the time), preferably does not contain by-products, is
                     a tinned (wet) food and is complete and balanced. Some companies
                     will publish additional information on their website, which can be
                     useful to help you select a good quality food.
35

Cat Nutrition

                Grain free cat food tins are available in the supermarket if you look.
                Beware that many may contain fish and/or by-products. By-products are
                the parts of the animal that are not meat, and may include things like
                feet, beaks, feathers etc. Hence foods containing animal by-products do
                not contain proteins with as high a quality as those that do not contain
                by-products

                Lastly, always ensure that the food is fully balanced. This will be stated
                on the label somewhere, and if there is no statement that the food is
                complete and balanced for the growth and/or maintenance of cats, then
                you must assume that it is not a complete food for cats, and should only
                be used occasionally (as an example: Fancy Feast Royale/black label, VIP
                Fussy Cat Fresh Mince are not a complete and balanced foods for cats).

                How much should I feed?

                In Australia good quality canned cat food comes in a variety of sizes,
                ranging from 85g single serve tins or pouches up to 375g tins or larger.
                Adult cats require between 150 - 250 kcal per day (kcal is short for
                kilocalories, commonly referred to simply as calories). An 85g single serve
                tin of cat food may contain, on average, 60 - 80 kcal. Many companies will
                publish the calorie content of their foods on their website. Alternatively
                you can refer to published tables, or contact the company directly for this
                information.

                For a list of the nutritional profiles of some Australian tinned cat
                foods, see the attached table of Canned Cat Foods (Appendix I).

                Because the amount of food that a cat needs varies depending on the
                cat’s diet, activity level, age, size and genetic factors, the best way to feed
                your cat is to feed enough to maintain your cat in an ideal body condition.
                This means using the above calorie requirements, or the feeding guide
                provided by the cat food manufacturer as a starting guide, but adjust
                how much you feed to ensure that your cat is not over or underweight.
                You can check with your vet if you are unsure how to check this, but your
                cat should have good muscle coverage over her bony points (head, hips,
                back etc), with a definite but minimal layer of fat under the skin. The ribs
                should be easy to feel, but not sticking out.

                Cats normally would eat many small meals a day. The closer you can
                replicate a cat’s normal pattern of eating the better, so an adult cat should
                be fed a minimum of 2 - 3 times a day (More is better if you are able to
                do so). Always give each meal fresh, do not leave out old food or keep
                uneaten food to be fed later - it is great for breeding bugs and the food
                will quickly spoil.
36

     Cat Nutrition

                     Kittens and Nutrition

                     While kittens do not specifically require a special diet compared to
                     adult cats (just more of it for their size), kitten food often has a higher
                     quality of protein in it (i.e. less or no grains or vegetables) and hence can
                     sometimes make a better food for cats of all life stages. Kittens have a
                     smaller stomach capacity, and a shorter intestinal length and capacity to
                     process food, and need to be fed more often than adult cats. Start off by
                     feeding a kitten 6 - 8 times a day, and then start to reduce the number
                     of meals after your kitten is around 4 months old. By 1 year of age your
                     kitten can generally be eating an adult number of meals. If your kitten
                     does not eat an entire meal, do not put it in the fridge for later. It should
                     be thrown out and fresh food should be given at the next meal. Bacteria
                     start to breed quickly on food and spoiled food can cause tummy upsets
                     and diarrhoea.

                     Mature Cats

                     It is worth noting that cats have another notable difference from dogs
                     and other animals in that once they get older, they actually require more
                     energy in their diet. This happens from around 8-10 years of age onwards,
                     and occurs for several reasons. Their appetite may also start to wane as
                     they age. It is important as your cat is getting older to be watching for
                     weight loss and signs of reduced appetite, and ensure that your cat has
                     regular health checks with your veterinarian. Older cats may require more
                     frequent meals, and may require further encouragement to eat, such
                     as warming of the food to make it more appealing. In order to ensure
                     she receives enough protein and energy, your vet may even prescribe a
                     specific diet for your cat as she ages.
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