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MALAYSIA:
First-Class Tropical Lifestyle
Opportunities At Amazingly
Affordable Prices
An International Living Australia report
www.ilaustralia.com
Malaysia: First-Class Tropical Lifestyle Opportunities At Amazingly Affordable Prices
An International Living Australia report
Author: Keith Hockton
Editor: Barbara Ross
Designer: Lorie Drozdenko
Cover photos: © Fotolia.com/R.M. Nunes
© Fotolia.com/Marina Ignatova
© Fotolia.com/loca4motion
© Fotolia.com/davidevison
© Copyright 2015. International Living Australia Publishing Ltd., Elysium House, Ballytruckle, Waterford,
Ireland. All rights reserved. No part of this report may be reproduced by any means without the express
written consent of the publisher. The information contained herein is obtained from sources believed to be
reliable, but its accuracy cannot be guaranteed. Registered in Ireland No. 285214.
Table of Contents Introduction............................................................................... 1 Lifting the veil on Malaysia...................................................................................................................................2 Experiencing the emergence of the new Malaysia.............................................................................................2 Malaysia: An Overview......................................................... 4 A brief history of Malaysia....................................................................................................................................5 Today’s political landscape....................................................................................................................................5 Malaysia’s “Father of Modernisation” .................................................................................................................6 Is Malaysia a safe country to live?........................................................................................................................6 Why you should pay attention to Malaysia today..............................................................................................7 Top Areas in Malaysia For Expats Today..........................11 Getting a feel for Kuala Lumpur.........................................................................................................................11 Kuala Lumpur real estate.....................................................................................................................................14 Kuala Lumpur property examples......................................................................................................................14 Rental properties in Kuala Lumpur...................................................................................................................15 Penang Island: A former British outpost...........................................................................................................17 The five best neighbourhoods in Penang..........................................................................................................18 Penang property examples..................................................................................................................................25 Rental properties in Penang................................................................................................................................26 Malacca City: Malaysia’s oldest city...................................................................................................................26 Malacca property examples.................................................................................................................................28 Rental properties in Malacca..............................................................................................................................28 Langkawi Island: Malaysia’s most beautiful island...........................................................................................29 Langkawi’s best beaches.......................................................................................................................................31 Langkawi property examples..............................................................................................................................32 Rental properties in Langkawi............................................................................................................................33 Kota Kinabalu: A resort destination..................................................................................................................33 Kota Kinabalu’s neighbourhoods.......................................................................................................................36 Kota Kinabalu property examples......................................................................................................................38 Rental properties in Kota Kinabalu...................................................................................................................38 Ipoh: Where café culture rules............................................................................................................................39 Ipoh property examples.......................................................................................................................................40 Rental properties in Ipoh.....................................................................................................................................41
The Property Buying Process in Malaysia........................ 42 Transaction costs..................................................................................................................................................43 How to buy a house in Malaysia.........................................................................................................................43 Finding the right attorney...................................................................................................................................44 Visa and Residence Options............................................... 46 Tourist/social visit visas in Malaysia..................................................................................................................46 Malaysia My Second Home Program................................................................................................................46 Work permit visas in Malaysia...........................................................................................................................48 Malaysian Residence Pass....................................................................................................................................48 Obtaining permanent residence ........................................................................................................................49 The Cost of Living in Malaysia............................................. 51 A Malaysian shopping basket.............................................................................................................................52 Malaysian street food...........................................................................................................................................53 Healthcare in Malaysia........................................................ 56 Where to go for the best healthcare in the world.............................................................................................57 Malaysia Insider Tips............................................................. 60 Driving...................................................................................................................................................................60 Moving household goods to Malaysia...............................................................................................................60 Mobile phones.......................................................................................................................................................61 Tipping...................................................................................................................................................................61 Weather..................................................................................................................................................................61 Can I take my pet with me?................................................................................................................................61 Banks and opening an account...........................................................................................................................62 Business hours......................................................................................................................................................62 Government hours...............................................................................................................................................62 Emergency contacts.............................................................................................................................................63 Travelling to Malaysia.......................................................... 65 Getting to and around Malaysia.........................................................................................................................65 Festivals of Malaysia.............................................................................................................................................67 Eat gourmet at street stalls in Southeast Asia’s foodie capital.........................................................................70 An insider’s art-filled tour of Penang.................................................................................................................75 Malaysia Rolodex................................................................. 78 Map of Malaysia................................................................... 84 Map of Southeast Asia......................................................... 85
Introduction
Malaysia is like two countries in one, separated by the South China Sea. It is a former
British colony and the Brits have left an indelible mark, but it’s much more than that, and has
so much to offer. The multicultural peninsula (mainland Malaysia) boasts Malay, Chinese and
Indian influences, while Borneo (east Malaysia) hosts a wild jungle of clouded leopards, pygmy
elephants, granite peaks and remote tribes.
The sultans, headhunters, pirates, and gin-and-tonic-swilling English rubber planters of
the Victorian era have long since gone, but the country remains as colourful and as beautiful
as ever. Beyond the lofty skyscrapers of the capital, Kuala Lumpur, its dramatic canvas is
embroidered with tropical beaches, lush green mountains, dense rainforests, and vivid tea
plantations.
Influences from across Asia and beyond have merged together to create an extraordinary
cross-cultural melting pot of customs, dress, architecture and cuisine. Along with foreign expats
from around the globe, the country is home to Malay, Chinese and Indian Malaysians.
There are still traces of the British influence too. The rail network, something that the Brits
are famous for, stretches from Singapore in the south to Thailand in the north. It’s first-rate. In
fact, the elegant E&O Express (website: www.belmond.com/eastern-and-oriental-express/), like
its cousin, the revived Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, is part of a new concept in rail travel
that is catching fire all over the world. This train is all about luxury travel married to nostalgia,
and it will take you the length and breadth of Malaysia in style.
Popular expat enclaves include Kuala Lumpur, the heart and capital of Malaysia, Malacca
City, Malaysia’s historic city, George Town, Penang’s bohemian capital, Ipoh, Malaysia’s
tin mining capital, and Kota Kinabalu, the gateway to the Kota Kinabalu National Park, the
Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Reserve and the mighty Mount Kinabalu, one of Southeast Asia’s
UNESCO-listed mountains and the highest in Malaysia.
The relatively weak Malaysian Ringgit (locally called the dollar) is also drawing more and
more property investors looking to take advantage of the MYR2.85 to AU$1 exchange rate, a
trend I think will continue for the next few years.
It’s just a matter of time before the rest of the world catches on, so if you are considering
Malaysia as a second home, or thinking of investing in Malaysia, then now is probably the time
to make your move.
1
Introduction
Lifting the veil on Malaysia
Malaysia is a country like no other, and once you have spent a little bit of time exploring its
cities, its hill stations, its national parks and some of its stunning islands, you’ll want more.
Malaysia has managed to retain its link to its colonial past, with its buildings, which have a
distinctly European feel, and a history that jumps out at you as soon as you arrive.
Few other countries, including Singapore and Burma, have such a distinctly historic feel,
and it’s a feeling that will stay with you long after you leave.
One traveller I met, who had been wandering Malaysia for eight months, said that she was
ready to leave, and looked forward to getting on the plane and heading home. However, as soon
as she was on the plane she wanted to get off, realising that Malaysia had in fact won her over,
and that there was more to see and experience. She’s now been travelling for over a year and,
when she is finished, she may well stay longer.
Experiencing the emergence
of the new Malaysia
I grew up travelling in Southeast Asia, spending time in Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei,
and I then worked in Hong Kong for a while, which allowed me to travel to Taiwan, Korea,
China and the Philippines.
When I moved to live in Malaysia in early 2010, I travelled extensively in Thailand,
Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos, but I’m still of the opinion that Malaysia is the best country in
which to retire to or, at the very least, to spend a good deal of time in.
So after spending most of my life in Southeast Asia, investigating and discovering what it
has to offer, it’s time to remove the veil that continues to mystify Malaysia, and to let the world
discover the realities of this fascinating country
Keith Hockton
International Living Australia’s Malaysia Correspondent
2
Malaysia: First-Class Tropical Lifestyle Opportunities At Amazingly Affordable Prices
About the author: Keith worked in the investment banking arena for most
of his life and retired in Hong Kong in 1998. He then went on a three-year
journey of discovery around Australia, and wrote Atlas of Australian Dive
Sites-Traveller’s Edition, a book about scuba diving your way around Australia.
It was published by Harper Collins in 2003 and is now in its third printing.
He worked for various think tanks in Australia and the U.K. between
2003 and 2009, concentrating on Asian and European country risk, and
finally returned to live in Malaysia in 2009. He had last lived there with his
parents in 1970. He started writing for International Living in 2011, and in the
same year authored Penang—An Inside Guide to its Historic Homes, Buildings,
Monuments, and Parks, already in its second printing, and wrote and co-
directed a documentary titled 1941—The Fall Of Penang, which showcased
on the History Channel in August 2012.
Keith is a fellow of the Malaysian Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society, and
continues to travel and explore Asia at every opportunity. He also mountain
bikes (badly), and consequently knows the Malaysian medical system and its
hospitals well.
Editor’s note: Thank you for buying Malaysia: First-Class Tropical Lifestyle
Opportunities At Amazingly Affordable Prices. The real estate mentioned in
this book was available to buy in September 2014, unless noted as being
under contract or a recent sale. Properties are listed to provide you with a
snapshot of what to expect, and to help you compare one city or region with
another. In many cases, you’ll find that the properties mentioned are still
available when you visit Malaysia, but in others they won’t be. Also, the legal
requirements for property purchase, taxes, customs and immigration are
those in effect in September 2014. Keep in mind that laws may change. Make
sure you check with your attorney or local consulate to verify that you’ve got
the latest information. The exchange rate used throughout this report is MYR
2.85 = AU $1.
3
Introduction
Malaysia: An Overview
Peninsular Malaysia sits pretty much in the middle of Southeast Asia, connected by a bridge
to the island nation of Singapore in the south, and a land border to Thailand in the north. East
Malaysia, on the island of Borneo, is separated from Peninsular Malaysia by the South China
Sea and borders Indonesia to the south, and the tiny oil and gas-rich nation of Brunei to the
north.
Malaysia has its origins in the Malay kingdoms present in the area, but from the 18th
century she became a subject of the British Empire.
The territories on Peninsular Malaysia were first unified as the Malayan Union in 1946.
Malaya was restructured as the Federation of Malaya in 1948 and achieved independence on
August 31, 1957. Malaya united with North Borneo, Sarawak and Singapore on September 16,
1963, with sia being added to Malay to give the new country the name Malaysia. Less than
two years later in 1965, Singapore was expelled from the federation, becoming an independent
nation.
Since independence, Malaysia has one of the best economic records in Asia, with GDP
growing at an average 6.5% per annum for almost 50 years. The economy has been fuelled
by its natural resources, but is expanding in the sectors of science, tourism, commerce and
the fastest-going area of them all, medical tourism. Some one million medical tourists visited
Malaysia last year.
Malaysia is a federation of 13 states and three federal territories that are divided between
two regions. Eleven states and two federal territories are in Peninsular Malaysia, and the other
two states and one federal territory are in east Malaysia (Borneo). Each state is divided into
districts, which are then divided into sub-districts.
Governance of the states is divided between the federal and the state governments, with
different powers reserved for each; federal government has direct administration of the federal
territories. Lower-level administration is carried out by local authorities, which include city
councils, district councils and municipal councils.
4
Malaysia: First-Class Tropical Lifestyle Opportunities At Amazingly Affordable Prices
The 13 states are based on historical Malay kingdoms, and nine of the 11 peninsular states,
known as the Malay states, still retain royal families. The king of Malaysia is elected from the
nine rulers to serve a five-year term. He alone appoints governors, who serve a four-year term
for the states without monarchies, after consultations with the chief minister of that particular
state.
Each state has a state legislative assembly and its own written constitution. Sabah and
Sarawak have considerably more autonomy than the other states, most notably having separate
immigration policies and controls, and a unique residence status.
A brief history of Malaysia
Traders and settlers from India and China arrived in Malaysia as early as the 1st century,
establishing trading ports and coastal towns. Their presence resulted in strong Indian and
Chinese influence on the local cultures, and the people of the Malay Peninsula adopted the
religions of Hinduism and Buddhism. Considering they were already animists, it made for a
colourful future.
Islam arrived in the Malay Archipelago via Arab and Indian traders in the 13th century. It
arrived gradually and became the religion of the elite before it spread to the commoners. Islam
in Malaysia was influenced by previous religions.
In 1511, the state of Malacca was conquered by Portugal, after which it was taken by
the Dutch, and finally the British in 1786. By 1826, the British directly controlled Penang,
Malacca, Singapore and the island of Labuan.
The Japanese invaded in 1941, which seemed to foster an atmosphere of nationalism, which
had been simmering just below the surface since the British left in 1941. The writing was on
the wall, and in 1948 the Malayan Emergency began. It lasted from 1948 to 1960 and involved
a long, anti-insurgency campaign by Commonwealth troops. It was a war, but the U.K. cleverly
called it an “emergency” so that farms and business affected could claim from their insurance
companies if necessary.
Independence from the U.K. was granted in 1957, and the Federation of Malaysia was
officially declared on August 31, 1963.
Today’s political landscape
The politics of Malaysia takes place in the framework of a federal representative democratic
constitutional monarchy. The king is head of state and the prime minister is the head of
government.
5
Malaysia: An Overview
The federal government and the 13 state governments exercise executive power. Federal
legislative power is vested in the federal parliament and the 13 state assemblies. The judiciary
is independent of the executive and the legislature, though the executive maintains a certain
level of influence in the appointment of judges to the courts.
However, since the March 8, 2008 general election, the media’s coverage on the country’s
politics has noticeably increased. A trend, largely due to the digital era, that will continue.
Malaysia’s “Father of Modernisation”
Mahathir bin Mohamad was born July 10, 1925. He held the post of prime minister for
22 years, from 1981 to 2003, making him Malaysia’s longest-serving prime minister. During
Mahathir’s tenure, Malaysia experienced a period of rapid modernisation and economic growth,
and his government initiated a series of bold infrastructure projects.
He was a dominant political figure—still is in many ways, even though he is retired—
winning five consecutive general elections and holding off all of his rivals for the leadership of
the United Malays National Organisation, Malaysia’s largest political party (UMNO).
For his efforts to promote the economic development of the country, Mahathir has been
granted the nickname of Bapa Pemodenan or the Father of Modernisation.
Mahathir’s official residence, Sri Perdana, where he resided from 1983 to 1999, was turned
into a museum with the name Galeria Sri Perdana (website: www.malaysiavacationguide.com/
galeria-sri-perdana.html). In keeping with the principle of heritage conservation, the original
design and layout of the Sri Perdana has been preserved.
Is Malaysia a safe country to live?
Malaysia is ranked the 33rd safest country in the world in which to live by the 2014 Global
Peace Index, compared to Australia, which is ranked 15th, the United States 101st, and the U.K.
47th.
Women who I spoke to said they felt entirely safe in Malaysia and wouldn’t think twice
about being out on their own in any of the capital cities late at night or early in the morning.
It’s an extremely safe country to travel around, whether you are alone or with your family,
and all I would add is don’t do anything here that you wouldn’t do at home (walking down dark
alleyways at night, for instance). Always follow your instincts; it’s one of the main reasons that
we have them.
6
Malaysia: First-Class Tropical Lifestyle Opportunities At Amazingly Affordable PricesWhy you should pay attention
to Malaysia today
You may well be asking yourself: why now? After all, Malaysia has been around for a long
time, and it’s one of Southeast Asia’s most developed countries. That’s all good and well but,
for me, living in Malaysia comes down to a few important factors. In no particular order, they
are:
Safety and security
Crime in Malaysia manifests in various forms, like all countries, but it’s a safe country by
comparison to many, and is rated one of the safest countries, if not the safest, in Asia, after
Japan and Singapore.
With respect to petty crime, Malaysia is like most of Asia: the poor steal from the rich, and
often, the rich steal from each other. (And in case you’re wondering, Asians don’t distinguish
between Australians, North Americans or Europeans.) We are neither rich nor poor in their eyes
but different. As foreigners, you can’t vote and therefore can’t influence policy or race relations,
and in my opinion it’s a good place to be. That gives you a certain amount of anonymity.
Violent crime against foreigners is less frequent in Malaysia. However, pickpocketing and
burglaries are common in landed properties (houses with land) but are non-existent in condos.
Other types of non-violent crime include credit card fraud and motor vehicle theft, but these are
not directed solely at foreigners, and the rate at which they frequent is less than in Australia,
North America and Europe.
A great lifestyle
There is a large expat community in Malaysia, and a lot of organisations have started up
over the years to keep the expat community involved and busy. Associations like the Masons
and Rotary Club are well represented, and in Penang alone there are five charters. There are
numerous cat and dog rescue services too, and they are always looking for volunteers, as well
as a plethora of orphanages and schools looking for expats to teach basic English.
There are lots of associations to choose from, and most expats are members of multiple
organisations. In Penang, there is the Irish Association, the German Association, Alliance
Française, the Swiss Association and the International Women’s Association, to name a few. It’s
a place where you and the people around you can do something different every day of the week
or just do nothing at all.
There are numerous balls that take place throughout the year too, including the St Patrick’s
7
Malaysia: An OverviewDay Ball, the German/Swiss and French Association Ball and the Australian Defence Ball, all
of which are well attended. Penang, like Kuala Lumpur, has a plethora of great restaurants,
good cafés, and amazing street stalls to keep your taste buds occupied for at least the next
decade. Some of the street stalls in Penang are known to be the best in Southeast Asia and don’t
open until midnight or 1 a.m. You’ll be surprised to hear that even at that time in the morning,
you will have to line up and wait your turn to savour their delicious wares.
Malaysia also offers you the chance to reinvent yourself. That is, the opportunity to start
over...find a life partner...start a business...or live the life you’ve always dreamed of, whatever
that may be.
A central location within Southeast Asia
The other thing I love about Malaysia is its central locality and the ease at which you can
fly, drive, train or ferry your way to pretty much any Southeast Asian destination.
Thailand is just a two-hour drive from Penang; Singapore just a three-hour drive from Kuala
Lumpur (KL); and Bangkok a short, 55-minute flight from KL International Airport. Cambodia,
Laos and Burma are all on your doorstep, and from Kuala Lumpur the exotic island of Bali is a
short, inexpensive trip. The Philippines are just a little further.
Malaysia is a great location and, on the whole, flights are generally inexpensive. AirAsia
(website: www.airasia.com), Firefly (website: www.fireflyz.com.my) and Malaysian Airlines
(website: www.malaysiaairlines.com) are good options when country-hopping in Southeast
Asia.
Friendly people and fascinating cultures
They say that Thailand is “the Land of Smiles” but the Malaysian people are certainly the
friendliest people that I have encountered in Southeast Asia.
Malaysia is married to quite a few cultures, but several in particular have had a lasting
influence on the country. Chief among these are the Malays, closely followed by the Chinese
and the Indians. These three groups are joined by a dizzying array of indigenous tribes, many
of which live in the forests and coastal areas of Borneo. Although each of these cultures have
maintained their traditions and community structures, they have also blended together to create
contemporary Malaysia’s uniquely diverse heritage.
The first Chinese settled in and around Malacca, and gradually adopted elements of
Malaysian culture. They intermarried with the Malay community and coined the words babas
and nonyas, which produced a set of practices, beliefs and arts, combining Malay and Chinese
traditions, and created an entirely new culture.
8
Malaysia: First-Class Tropical Lifestyle Opportunities At Amazingly Affordable PricesChinese who arrived in mid-19th century, to work in the tin and rubber industries, have
preserved their culture much more carefully. A city like Penang, for example, can often give
one the impression of being in China rather than in Malaysia. In fact, planeloads of Chinese
tourists from mainland China arrive daily to witness largely what has been eradicated from
parts of their homeland, that being the numerous temples and kongsis (clan halls) that exist here
in their thousands.
Another example of Malaysia’s extraordinary cultural exchange is the Malay wedding
ceremony, which incorporates elements of Hindu traditions from southern India. It’s not
surprising, as there is evidence of Indians having settled in Malaysia long before the Malays. In
this instance, the bride and groom dress in gorgeous brocades, sit in state, and feed each other
yellow rice with hands painted with henna. Muslims have also adapted the Chinese custom of
giving little red packets of money (ang pow) during Hari Raya (two religious celebrations—one
to mark the end of Ramadan and the other to celebrate Abraham’s sacrifice). These particular
packets are green and have Arab writing on them.
You can go from a Malaysian kampung (village) to a rubber plantation worked by Indians to
a Chinese kongsi (clan house) in Penang, and feel that you’ve travelled through three nations.
In cities like Kuala Lumpur, you’ll find everyone in a lovely blend. In one house, a Chinese
opera will be playing on the radio; in another they’re preparing for Muslim prayers; in the next,
the daughter of the household readies herself for classical Indian dance lessons; and in the next,
a European family will be watching football on TV.
Perhaps the easiest way to begin to understand the highly complex cultural interaction in
Malaysia is to look at the open-door policy maintained during religious festivals. Although
Malaysia’s different cultural traditions are frequently maintained by self-contained ethnic
communities, all of Malaysia’s communities open their doors to members of other cultures
during a religious festival—to tourists as well as neighbours. Such inclusiveness is more than
just a way to break down cultural barriers and foster understanding. It is a positive celebration
of a tradition of tolerance, which has, for millennia, formed the basis of Malaysia’s progress.
Malaysia is a stunning, exciting, inexpensive, enjoyable country in which to live, and my
only regret is that I didn’t come sooner.
Investment potential
If you’re thinking of opening a business, Malaysia may be the place for you. Whether you
want to invest in an existing business or set up your own, Malaysia allows you to do just that
and the investment potential here is limitless.
Here are eight reasons why investing in Malaysia is a good idea:
9
Malaysia: An Overview1. Malaysia has one of the best gross national income growth rates in Asia, as well as
one of the most consistent GDP growth rates in the world. GNI averaged MYR 159.29
billion (AU$55 billion) from 2005 to 2014, reaching an all-time high of MYR 200.4
billion (AU$70 billion) in the fourth quarter of 2014. Malaysia is one of only 13
economies in the world to have sustained a growth rate of 7% or more for 25 years.
2. When it comes to ease of doing business, Malaysia is the 18th most competitive
economy in the world—according to the World Bank’s Doing Business 2015 report—
well ahead of Taiwan, Japan and Switzerland. It’s also the 23rd best country when it
comes to obtaining credit, and number five when it comes to investor protection.
3. Malaysia is one of the top emerging market destinations for foreign direct investment
in the world too. In 2012, it made up 3.2% of Malaysia’s gross domestic product. In
2013, that figure jumped to 3.7%.
4. Malaysia is ranked third in the world as a global services location, and has maintained
that position every year since 2004.
5. Malaysia historically has low inflation rates compared to other developing countries
in Asia. Historically, most of these countries have average inflation rates that are 36%
higher than Malaysia’s.
6. Kuala Lumpur has the third lowest rent and consumer price index, the fourth lowest
cost of business occupancy, and seventh lowest tax rate in the world.
7. Malaysia has a conducive environment for business, has investor-friendly incentives
and tax policies, excellent infrastructure, a supportive financial sector, and political
stability.
8. Malaysia is ranked 36th in the world for the availability of quality labour and market-
ready talent, surpassing most Southeast Asian countries.
10
Malaysia: First-Class Tropical Lifestyle Opportunities At Amazingly Affordable PricesTop Areas in Malaysia
For Expats Today
You’ve heard me say that Malaysia is exciting and diverse, with a wide array of living
options and lifestyles. In this section, you’ll discover what it’s all about. We’re going to take a
tour around the country and look into some of the prime locations that are drawing expats here
today.
Let’s start with the nation’s capital.
Getting a feel for Kuala Lumpur
©IL/Eoin Bassett
Malaysia’s capital is a mix of modern and traditional life.
11
Top Focus Areas in Malaysia For Expats TodayUsually abbreviated to “KL”, Kuala Lumpur, which translates as “Muddy River” in Malay,
is Malaysia’s capital. It is fast becoming a favourite for travellers looking for great restaurants,
cool cafés, stylish bars and great shopping. Its airports, highways and the user-friendly
monorail is more modern than in many Western cities, and the city is clinically clean.
Dominated by the twin Petronas Towers, once the tallest freestanding buildings in the world,
the city centre is getting a new high-rise skyline. But along with its mosques, churches and
temples, its mock Tudor buildings from the British colonial era still stand tall. The most famous
of these is the Royal Selangor Club, which was established in 1884. It’s known locally as the
Spotted Dog, due to a member in the 1930s who used to tie her Dalmatians up outside while
she was in having lunch.
Conveniences in this area abound, especially around the heart of the city known as the
“Golden Triangle”. Internet cafés, English bookstores, cinemas, international-standard hospitals
and schools, and branches of Western supermarkets such as the U.K.’s Tesco and Singapore’s
Cold Storage. If you hanker for Scandinavian furniture, IKEA are here too. And if you like
night markets, 24-hour restaurants, and street stalls that serve a variety of food, you will be
happy here for a very long time because KL has its fill of them.
Although Kuala Lumpur is more expensive than other parts of Malaysia, it is the capital—
and capitals invariably are. In 2012, Swiss Bank UBS surveyed 71 comparable cities in the
world, from London to Jakarta (they conduct this survey every three years). Kuala Lumpur was
rated the 11th cheapest place to buy an identical basket of 122 goods and services.
Green districts, where monkeys often frolic by the roadside, surround this busy city
centre. It’s not uncommon in these areas to hear that monkeys have raided someone’s condo
and emptied their fridge. One couple that I spoke to said that they arrived home to find
three monkeys sitting at their kitchen table, eating the contents of their fridge. One monkey
apparently had a carton of milk in his hand while the others an apple and a pear. They said the
look of surprise on the monkey’s faces, as they came through the door, was priceless.
KL’s population is around 1.6 million, and swells to 5.7 million if the metropolitan area is
included. The suburbs of Ampang, Mont Kiara, Damansara Heights and Bangsar are popular
expat haunts, and Petaling Jaya, where I lived as a child, is also becoming popular. All of
these districts have their own malls, restaurants and entertainment, and it’s not unusual for KL
residents to bypass the city when they leave of a Friday afternoon.
With KL’s multicultural makeup, you can expect a full calendar of celebrations year-round.
The city’s Chinese residents greet their New Year in February with gold and scarlet, and
everyone enjoys the lion dances, acrobats and firework displays. Shops hold draws for lucky
red ang pow envelopes crammed with money. Diwali, the Indian community’s Festival of
Lights, is celebrated at the end of October. And then there’s Thaipusam, when over a million
12
Malaysia: First-Class Tropical Lifestyle Opportunities At Amazingly Affordable PricesHindu devotees form a procession and walk the 14.5 kilometres to the mysterious Batu Caves.
As is tradition, bodies, cheeks and tongues are pierced with metal hooks and skewers (called
vel).
During Christmas, the shopping malls have no religious symbols, but they’re stuffed with
Santa, fake snow and Christmas trees galore. And there’s no escaping Valentine’s Day either.
Malaysians love celebrations of every kind, and there are officially more than 130 different
holidays and festivals every year.
Not even counting the rest of Asia, KL’s residents have a fabulous choice of holiday escapes
within Malaysia itself. There are frequent flights to the exotic islands of Penang, Langkawi,
Sipadan and Tioman Island. The historical port town of Malacca (Malaysia’s oldest town)
is only a two-hour drive away, and Singapore is only a little further down the south-coast
highway.
Due to its cooler climate, the Cameron Highlands are popular with weekend golfers
looking to tee off among the tea plantations and strawberry farms. This is also where American
millionaire Jim Thompson, famous for being one of the founding members of the OSS (the
Office of Strategic Services, which was the predecessor of the CIA) in World War II, and
reinvigorating the Thai silk industry, disappeared in March 1967. He went out for a walk one
day and was never heard from again, and you can still stay in the cottage that he rented before
he disappeared.
If gambling
is your bag then
the hill resort
of the Genting
Highlands,
Malaysia’s
answer to Vegas,
is a mere one-
hour drive.
Known as the
“Fun City Above
the Cloud”,
©iStockPhoto.com/kokkai
the Genting
Highlands
has the only
legal land-
based casino in
The Genting Highlands is known as the
Malaysia. “Fun City Above the Cloud” and has a legal casino.
13
Top Focus Areas in Malaysia For Expats TodayKuala Lumpur real estate
AAlthough foreigners can own freehold landed properties and apartments above MYR 1
million ($350,200), in KL’s centre and poshest suburbs, finding anything below that is pretty
much impossible (for more on the property buying process in Malaysia, see page 42). That
being said, I have included properties below the minimum level based on the fact that if you
own a business in Malaysia, something that isn’t that hard to establish, you can buy properties
in your business name for less; effectively for the same price as Malaysians.
Property prices have risen in the last year and, if forecasts are correct, they’ll continue to do
so. A portal for many of the city’s agents, www.iproperty.com.my, has thousands of properties
priced between MYR 300,000 ($105,000) and MYR 4 million ($1.4 million).
Rates for quality condos can drop below $1,496 per square metre in satellite towns such as
Petaling Jaya (around 11 kilometres from KL central) and in the outer reaches of suburbs such
as Ampang. Keep in mind that although these areas are cheaper, there is a reason for this, and
it’s primarily to do with the distance and traffic during rush hour. Although only 11 kilometres
away, those 11 kilometres can take up to one hour to cover at peak times. Something to keep in
mind.
Monthly maintenance fees for condos can be as low as $35, but the typical condo property
favoured by expats has lots of facilities such as a swimming pool, tennis court, etc. This can
increase the monthly fees, so the fee for a 304-square-metres unit with those facilities would be
approximately $126.
Kuala Lumpur property examples
• A one-bedroom, one-bathroom condo in the Azelia Residence in Sri Damansara.
Covering 111 square metres, it is within easy access of the centre of Kuala Lumpur
and the international airport. This condo also has air conditioning, a kitchen with built-
in cabinets, and one car space. It’s close to shopping, restaurants and international
schools. Building amenities include a swimming pool, gym, a barbecue area, sauna,
tennis courts, minimarket and a playground. Price: MYR 580,000 ($203,100).
• The Westway One, in Desa ParkCity, offers apartments with up to six bedrooms
with bathrooms, spacious living and dining areas, and two or three car spaces per
apartment. Facilities here include a swimming pool, gym, shared Jacuzzi, tennis
courts, a function room, meeting rooms and a jogging track, all set within impeccably
landscaped gardens. The development also has a spacious lobby, garden water features,
an infinity pool, a gym, tennis courts, a barbecue area and changing rooms. Peace,
tranquility and privacy are all on offer here, while still being close to all that the city
has to offer. Price: starting at MYR 750,000 ($262,650).
14
Malaysia: First-Class Tropical Lifestyle Opportunities At Amazingly Affordable Prices• In the impressive Azelia Residence building, located just five minutes from the heart of
KL in Sri Damansara, there’s a three-bedroom, three-bathroom condo with 125 square
metres of living space. The condo comes fully furnished, and building amenities
include a gym, an infinity swimming pool, a multipurpose hall, and an intercom and
panic button to the guardhouse. Building amenities include a swimming pool, gym,
a barbecue area, sauna, tennis courts, minimarket and a playground. Price: MYR
950,000 ($332,700).
• A ground-floor, four-bedroom, five-bathroom apartment in Mont Kiara. This
279-square-metre, fully renovated apartment is partly furnished and includes a sofa
set, TV, fridge and a washing machine. It also features a fully fitted kitchen with
marble, tile floors and a car porch. Shared amenities include a car, an Olympic-sized
swimming pool with cascades, a fully equipped gym, tennis courts and a running track.
Price: MYR 2,500,000 ($875,500).
Rental properties in Kuala Lumpur
You’ll find a whole range of rentals in Kuala Lumpur. How much you pay will depend on
where you decide to rent and your proximity to the city centre.
• A three-bedroom, two-bathroom, partly furnished apartment near Sri Petaling. It is
close to public transport and local amenities. Rent: MYR 700 ($245) per month.
• A three-bedroom, two-bathroom condo on Genting Court in Setapak. With 121 square
metres of living space, it comes partly furnished, and has the use of a shared pool,
gym, minimarket, playground, 24-hour security and covered parking. Rent: MYR
1,500 ($525) per month.
• A fully furnished studio apartment with 39 square metres of living space, in the city
centre, would be perfect for a single person or a couple. It’s close to public transport,
and the building has a gym, Jacuzzi, swimming pool, business centre, covered parking
and 24-hour security. Rent: MYR 2,500 ($875) per month.
• A two-bedroom, two-bathroom condo in the Taman Melawati area of the city. With
102 square metres of living space, this property comes partly furnished, and building
amenities include a sauna, gym, barbecue area, swimming pool, wading pool, jogging
track, landscaped gardens and 24-hour security. Rent: MYR 2,500 ($875) per month.
• In the heart of the city, with views of the prestigious Bukit Bintang area, there’s a two-
bedroom, two-bathroom, fully furnished apartment with 114 square metres of living
space and a fully equipped kitchen. The apartment also shares an additional swimming
pool, a barbecue area, a gym, playground, wading pool, and comes with two covered
parking spaces. Rent: MYR 8,500 ($2,977) per month.
15
Top Focus Areas in Malaysia For Expats TodayDurian—The stinky fruit that tastes heavenly
When in Malaysia, you should try a slice of durian—a prickly brown
fruit that can weigh up to seven kilograms. Regarded by many people in
Southeast Asia as the “king of fruits”, the durian is distinctive for its large
size, strong odour and thorn-covered husk.
Some people regard the durian
as having a pleasantly sweet
fragrance; others find the aroma
overpowering and revolting. The
smell evokes reactions from deep
appreciation to intense disgust,
and has been described as rotten
onions, turpentine and raw sewage.
© iStockPhoto.com/szefei
The persistence of its odour has
led to the fruit’s banishment from
the majority of hotels and public
transportation in Southeast Asia.
Most airlines in Malaysia will not The prickly fruit has been banned
allow you to carry it onboard if you from many public places.
are flying domestically, and it’s a
definite no-no when flying internationally too. The smell is so strong that on
a recent visit to Malaysia, U.S. President Barack Obama was refused entry to
Air Force One due to the fact that he had just eaten some durian.
Personally, I like durian. I like its flavour but I don’t like its texture— it’s very
similar to baked custard—and for that reason alone I won’t seek it out, but I
do eat it when offered it by local friends.
During durian season, Singaporeans drive all the way to Penang Island
(608 kilometres) to taste the best fruit that Malaysia has to offer. If they like a
fruit from a particular tree, they book the tree, and its entire harvest, for the
following year. That way they know that next year, when they make the trip,
they will have the tastiest durians available.
Maybe there’s something wrong with my nose, because it smells
appetising enough to me.
16
Malaysia: First-Class Tropical Lifestyle Opportunities At Amazingly Affordable PricesPenang Island: A former British outpost
©IL/Eoin Bassett
Penang is an old British outpost known as “the Pearl of the Orient”.
Many foreign retirees opt for a new life on Penang Island, a 50-minute flight from Kuala
Lumpur. It’s also accessible by a 13-kilometre-long road-bridge, and a ferry from the mainland
that runs 24 hours a day. A second bridge was completed in mid-2014.
One of the oldest outposts of the former British Empire, Penang delivers 285 square
kilometres of tropical treasures. A lush, mountainous island oozing history and heritage,
Victorians christened it “the Pearl of the Orient”. It lies anchored on the Spice Route, just off
Malaysia’s west coast, a mere two-hour drive from the borders of southern Thailand.
Around 41% of the island’s 600,000 inhabitants are of Chinese descent. From the Snake
Temple to mooncakes and elaborately decorated clan houses, their culture and traditions survive
intact. As do those of Penang’s Malay and Indian communities.
George Town is Penang’s capital. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008, it’s one of
Asia’s most likable cities. Blending old and new, modern high-rises encircle streets packed with
mansions, shop-houses and Chinese clan houses.
Temples have roofs glinting with porcelain tile work, most of which was imported from
Malacca. The Clan Jetties are a real oddity and unique to Penang Island. This is where you will
find the floating stilt homes of Chinese fishing families who arrived at the same time as Captain
Francis Light, who founded the island in 1786. Each jetty represents a particular surname, for
example Tan, Chew and Yeoh, and when the Chinese landed in Penang you had to land on the
jetty bearing your name. It was actually a good system, as you were then forwarded to a clan
17
Top Focus Areas in Malaysia For Expats Todayhouse that would feed and clothe you, give you lodging, and probably even a job.
There’s plenty in Penang for colonial history buffs and foodies too, but Penang also delivers
first-rate hospitals, international schools and Western-style shopping. And good beaches are
on George Town’s doorstep. A 75-cent bus ride takes you past upmarket Gurney Drive to Batu
Ferringhi’s golden sands. Gurney Drive’s promenade is a favourite spot to catch well-to-do
locals promenading at night and at weekends, and there are a few of the old grand mansions on
view.
People from Penang are called Penangites, and food is always on their mind. If they are
eating breakfast, they are thinking about lunch. If they are eating lunch, they are thinking of
an afternoon snack. You get the picture. There’s a dazzling array of stalls and restaurants,
selling delights such as charcoal-baked crabs, salt-baked prawns, and Penang’s signature fried
flat noodle dish, char koay teow. It’s cooked using sweet dark soy sauce, bean sprouts, garlic,
onions, Chinese sausages, prawns, chilli and squid. People drive from miles around just to
sample it.
The five best
neighbourhoods
in Penang
Just two hours south of the
Thai border and a four-hour drive
from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia’s
capital, Penang Island is a very
special place to live. Steeped in
history, it’s home to Southeast
Asia’s first colonial hill station,
a plethora of early 19th century
mansions, and traditional Chinese
shop-houses. If it sounds good
to you, and it should, then where
should you look when considering
living here? Here’s my guide to
Penang’s best neighbourhoods...
George Town: In the north
east of the island is Penang’s best-
known district George Town, the capital of the island. It’s where you’ll find most of the island’s
hospitals, art galleries, museums, antique shops, café culture, and some of Malaysia’s oldest
18
Malaysia: First-Class Tropical Lifestyle Opportunities At Amazingly Affordable Prices©IL/Eoin Bassett
A UNESCO heritage designation has increased the popularity of George Town.
colonial administrative buildings. Penang International Airport is a leisurely 40 minutes’ drive
farther south.
In the last few years, central George Town has morphed into an eclectic mix of spruced up
colonial buildings, renovated shop-houses, hip nightclubs, backpacker hostels and five-star
hotels. Love Lane, Chulia Street, Penang Street, Campbell Street and Muntri Street are pretty
much where everything happens. It’s two and a half square kilometres of pure energy. Penang
Lane, just opposite the world-renowned E&O Hotel, is where most of the nightclubs are based.
Seven nights a week, this clubbing capital rocks like no other in Malaysia. Renovated shop-
houses in this area start at around $630,755.
Real estate prices have shot up since George Town got a UNESCO heritage designation
in 2008, but you’ll find good-value rentals throughout. A renovated, 185-square-metre shop-
house in one of the more popular streets like Muntri or Armenian, with its own traditional open
courtyard inside, sells for $4,758 per square metre. However, you can rent that same house
19
Top Focus Areas in Malaysia For Expats Todayfor just $9.15 per square metre, which makes buying difficult. If interested in buying, then the
question you should ask is if there is still capital gains to be made when prices have risen so
quickly over the last few years.
South and west of the centre you’ll find un-renovated shop-houses for half the price of those
in the centre. There’s a more industrial, edgy feel around here, but it won’t be that way for long,
and right now there’s good value to be had.
You don’t need a car in George Town, as your favorite cafés, restaurants, food markets and
convenience stores are all within walking distance. The expats who live here want city living
with a big-village feel, and that’s exactly what they get. At night there is little traffic, and
getting to know you neighbour, while sipping a gin and tonic on your balcony or in a local bar,
is a given.
Pulau Tikus: A few kilometres northwest of George Town is the bustling, upmarket area
of Pulau Tikus. This is my favourite neighborhood and where I live now. Pulau Tikus has its
fair share of mansions, bungalows, colonial buildings and high-rise condos on Gurney Drive.
But it also has leafy suburbs and is home to Penang’s Botanic Gardens, which were established
©Creative Commons/Marufish
Pulau Tikus is an upmarket area of Penang.
20
Malaysia: First-Class Tropical Lifestyle Opportunities At Amazingly Affordable Pricesaround 1865. There’s also a wet market where you can buy vegetables, fruits and meats, and
pretty much everything else that you need, at local prices. There is even an organic stall, which
is very popular with expats, and just down the road there is an organic store that sells bags of
produce.
This area was once home to Penang’s early Burmese population, and there are at least three
large Buddhist temples, set in acres of landscaped gardens, a short walk from where I live. The
streets in this neighbourhood are wide, there are lots of trees, and it’s a lovely area to wander at
leisure.
You’ll find reasonably priced apartments around here. Just a few minutes’ walk from the
market, a 186-square-metre apartment sold recently for $307,800. It has views of Penang Hill, a
swimming pool, a gym, two car spaces and 24-hour security. You can rent that same apartment
for just $1,135 a month. The Botanic Gardens are just a three-minute drive away, and Gurney
Plaza and Gurney Paragon (two of the ritziest shopping malls on the island), which has its own
IMAX movie theatre, are a seven-minute stroll away.
Tanjung Tokong: A little farther north, and closer to the ocean, this area is going through a
major transformation. One of the oldest inhabited areas on the island, the expats who live here
are wealthy captains of industry or retired. Traditional Chinese and Malay fishing communities
are also scattered along its coast, offering a tantalising juxtaposition. There is even a seminary
sitting on the hill that has been there since the early 1900s.
Here, the owners of the E&O Hotel chain have built Straits Quay, a luxury development
and marina on reclaimed land. A 158-square-metre apartment, facing the marina and mainland
Malaysia, costs $492,000. A 278-square-metre house, with its own pool and 24-hour security,
is a mere $1.5 million. All the houses and condos either have, or include the use of, a state-of-
the-art gym, a car space or three, and 24-hour security. It’s the closest thing that Penang has to a
gated development, and it’s a very popular area for wealthy expats and locals alike.
Within walking distance of Straits Quay is a newly built Tesco superstore, and numerous
bars and restaurants. Just minutes down the road is Penang’s first shopping centre, Island Plaza
, and Cold Storage, one of the biggest, well-established and most popular supermarkets on the
island.
For bargains, look for older properties. Locals rarely buy them, preferring new construction,
so large, older apartments in good areas like this one are very good value. For instance, there’s
an older block of apartments called Mutiara Villa, near the shopping centre, where you can
buy an 111-square-metre apartment for $206,300. It has sea views, a swimming pool and a car
space.
Tanjung Bungah: Farther north, on the ocean but in an area that extends back to the hills,
21
Top Focus Areas in Malaysia For Expats TodayYou can also read
