Millennial bug Cosmetics Packaging Packaging - Packaging & Converting Intelligence
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Cosmetics Packaging I N S I G H T
WINTER 2018
Millennial bug
The millennial market is increasing the
importance of brand engagement
Materials • Regulation • Brand protection • Sustainability
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AF-SAMPLING INNOVATIONS-ANUNCIOS-210x286mm+3mm-ENGLISH.pdf 1 11/5/18 11:57
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
The perfect experience SELF-SAMPLING®
for your consumer Introducing customised technology that
does exist. dispenses a single fragrance or make up
sample at the touch of a button.
Let’s discover it together. • EASY only one click!
• NON-INVASIVE consumer choice.
360º • INNOVATIVE experiential solution.
Passionate about Passionate about Passionate about
ideas. full service. impact.
We are experts in We offer a 360 degree We seek to engage
creating innovative approach from design and the consumer
sampling solutions for production, through to the and ensure that
fragrance, beauty and promotion and distribution of sampling delivers
personal care brands. samples to your consumer. amazing results. www.sampling-innovations.com
Passionate
about sampling
Scent labels Sachets Vials Miniatures Make up
Samplinginnovations.indd 1 06/12/2018 11:58
From the editor
On the web... Matthew Rogerson
Keep up with the latest developments Editor
across the packaging industry by visiting
www.pci-mag.com
Growth factors for
the festive season
A
s Christmas rolls ever closer, the VR technology to allow users to try on
cosmetics industry prepares for products prior to purchase or through
one of its highest growth periods partnerships with mobile apps to help improve
of the year. Looking good is big business the reach of products. Consumers can even
Cosmetics Packaging Insight and business continues to be good, with use smart tools as diagnostic experts to help
Winter 2018 consumers willing to pay high amounts and measure the exact make-up of their skin to
EDITORIAL make more effort to source the right cosmetics assist with product choices, rather than relying
Editor Matthew Rogerson
products than ever before, but this comes on the previously used trial and error.
Chief sub-editor Thom Atkinson
Sub-editors Nicholas Kenny, Julian Turner with the downside that there is no loyalty to Inclusive positioning, such as the creation
Senior writer Greg Noone
Feature writers Grace Allen, Tim Gunn
anything less than excellence. of gender-neutral products and advertising
Production manager Steve Buchanan Any product caught overpromising and campaigns to engage the male demographic,
Group art director Henrik Williams
Designer Martin Faulkner under-delivering will quickly be put on notice has grown rapidly across the globe. This trend
through social media and word of mouth, also seeks to create intergenerational and
COMMERCIAL
and without immediate improvements will racially diverse marketing campaigns that
Client services executive Yasmina Jackson
Publication manager Richard Pollard be scrapped equally fast. This is a market that communicate beauty as something that all
Subscriptions marketing manager
Mariella Salerno
can give Kylie Jenner a $1-billion company consumers can possess.
Publisher William Crocker valuation within three years, so the money is Perhaps the most crucial to note is the
there for the right products and the right look. move towards unique experiences, which
So what is driving growth in 2019 in the provides flexible formulations that consumers
Cosmetics Packaging Insight is published by cosmetics sector? There are a number of can alter and reformulate depending on
Compelo, a member of the Audit Bureau of Circulation.
active key trends that have been spotted changes in their lifestyle. Companies have also
John Carpenter House, John Carpenter Street, throughout the year: been working to enhance product packaging
London, EC4Y 0AN, UK
Tel: +44 20 7936 6400 Fax: +44 20 7411 9800 The clean lifestyles trend has incorporated and its ‘shareability’ – offering unique shapes,
www.compelo.com
www.pci-mag.com
beauty foods or supplements that can be colours, and reflective and metallic materials
ISSN 2516-3442 © 2018 Compelo. integrated into the diet to support beauty and that encourage sharing online and assist in
Registered in England No. 09901510.
grooming. This can be achieved by harnessing improving product visibility.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be health food ingredients to develop naturally However cosmetics companies choose to
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic, photocopying or otherwise, beneficial formulations. Single dose products drive growth, listening to consumers remains
without prior permission of the publisher and copyright owner.
that need to be refrigerated and have ‘use by’ the key to looking good and feeling great,
While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the
information in this publication, the publisher accepts no dates can enhance efficacy perceptions. ensuring they have the tools and functionality
responsibility for errors or omissions.
Smart tools continue to dominate cosmetics of product they need in order to intuitively use
The products and services advertised are those of individual
authors and are not necessarily endorsed by or connected with
packaging innovation, whether through using their products and unlock their best selves.
the publisher. The opinions expressed in the articles within this
publication are those of individual authors and not necessarily
those of the publisher.
SUBSCRIPTIONS
Single issue: UK £31 EU €49 US $65 ROW $65
In this issue
One year: UK £48 EU €76 US $99 ROW $100 Page 19: Taking stock of millennials, their purchasing habits in
Two year: UK £77 EU €120 US $158 ROW $159 the beauty sector and effect on the industry.
Subscription hotline: +44 845 073 9607 (local rate)
Page 28: How businesses have been making use of online
Subscription fax: +44 207 458 4032 transparency to increase efficiency, safety and trust in their brands.
Email: cs@compelo.com
Cosmetic Packaging Insight & Innovation Subscriptions, Page 32: A look at the shift towards green consumerism and
Riverbridge House, Ground Floor, South Tower, Anchor Boulevard. the potential benefits for businesses that embrace this trend.
Crossways, Kent DA2 6SL
Printed by Stephens & George Print Group
Visit www.pci-mag.com
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 3
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Contents
In this issue...
Cover story
16
19
Millennials are more likely to trust social media influencers and bloggers than brand claims. Tubes are the new stars in cosmetics packaging.
6 The global market 15 Drive innovation key legislative topics for the beauty
This GlobalData report brings in the tube market and personal-care industries. Julia
together multiple data sources Viva Packaging Wray reports.
to provide a comprehensive
overview of the global cosmetics 16 Tube takeover 25 Small and sustainable
and toiletries industry. The Tubes have proved to be effective, Exhibitors at ADF & PCD New
report provides percentage and cost-effective, packaging York 2018 were split equally across
share (in 2017) and growth components across the cosmetics packaging and dispensing. What they
analysis (during 2012–22) for and skincare industries for many all had in common was providing
various package materials, pack years, and are increasingly being solutions that offered sustainability,
type, closure type, and primary adopted by other markets. Cosmetics with a focus on challenger brands
outer types based on the volume Packaging Insight selects a number looking to disrupt the market.
sales (by pack units) of cosmetics of products featuring tubes as
and toiletries products. primary packaging components 28 Full transparency
from GlobalData’s pack track Neil Thompson explores how
9 Up close and personal database, and highlights the businesses are discovering new
The growing UK beauty and features that make these products opportunities to boost efficiency,
personal-care market was worth innovative and improvements on safety and trust in their leading labels.
more than £15 billion in 2017. To what came before.
differentiate themselves in this 31 An exciting new way to
glamorous and crowded sector, 19 Marketing that meets promote fragrances
brands have to go beyond being millennial needs Sampling Innovations Europe
aesthetically pleasing because Millennials make up almost a third of
consumers now expect the the world’s population, spending about 32 Rub of the green
‘whole package’. Emma-Jane $200 billion each year, so GlobalData A shift towards ‘green’ consumerism
Batey speaks to a range of beauty Consumer conducted a special report is evident, with 75% of consumers
brands about how they are meeting on millennials and their purchasing believing that living an ethical and
market demands. habits in the beauty sector. sustainable lifestyle is important
in creating a feeling of well-being,
12 Ideas shaped in metal 22 Legislative round-up according to primary research by
Pack-Man From the EU Cosmetics Regulation GlobalData. Ethical and sustainable
to halal certification and REACH, the packaging can now play an
13 A perfect fit 2018 Cosmetics Business Regulatory important role in achieving that
Aarts Plastics Summit covered a broad range of lifestyle and peace of mind.
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 5
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The intelligence > Market analysis
The global
market
This GlobalData report brings together multiple data sources to provide a comprehensive
overview of the global cosmetics and toiletries industry. The report provides percentage
share (in 2017) and growth analysis (for 2012–22) for various package materials, pack
type, closure type, and primary outer types based on the volume sales (by pack units) of
cosmetics and toiletries products.
T
he global cosmetics and toiletries animal welfare organisations to ban High-potential countries
industry was valued at $412 billion animal testing of personal-care products, A total of 50 countries were analysed,
in 2017, led by Asia-Pacific and manufacturers face the challenges of based on a risk-reward analysis, to identify
the Americas, which accounted for value seeking alternative testing methods the top four countries by region. The risk-
shares of 37.6 and 32.4%, respectively. and replacing conventional packaging reward analysis is based on multiple
A falling global unemployment rate and the materials with more sustainable ones. metrics, including market size and growth
consequent rise in disposable income levels The value share of skincare and oral assessment, economic development
are major factors influencing consumer hygiene is forecast to increase during indicators, socio-demographic
spending on personal care. The projected 2012–22, while that of haircare and factors, governance indicators,
global economic improvements, led make-up is expected to remain constant. and technological infrastructure.
by strong growth in Asia’s developing At regional levels, personal hygiene in The top ten high-potential countries –
economies, will drive growth in the Eastern Europe, feminine hygiene in China, South Korea, Brazil, Canada,
cosmetics and toiletries industry. However, Asia-Pacific, and haircare and personal Colombia, the Netherlands, the UK,
with consumers’ rising concerns about hygiene in MEA, are projected to see strong Russia, Poland and Saudi Arabia –
sustainability, and increasing pressure from growth in value shares during 2012–22. accounted for a combined value share of
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The intelligence > Market analysis
40.9% in 2017. China is set to emerge as address specific issues, such as hair fall/ ‘moringa’ and ‘kale’, deemed to be naturally
the fastest-growing market for cosmetics hair loss, dull skin or dark spots, has led to nourishing to skin and hair. Additionally,
and toiletries (C&T) with a projected the emergence of personal-care products regional beauty regimen will drive the use
CAGR of 8% for 2017–22, while Russia with active ingredients, vitamins and of ingredients such as snail essence, yogurt,
was the largest market in Eastern Europe minerals. Distaste for artificial ingredients argan oil, jojoba oil, black pine and wild
with a value share of 42.7% in 2017. has also prompted the rising use of rose to gain clean label positioning.
natural ingredients such as black and The clean label trend will see
Competitive landscape white charcoal, aloe vera, coconut water, continued interest in ‘organic’ and
The global C&T industry is highly rose, honey and lemon, as well as other ‘natural’ tags. Functional claims such as
fragmented, with the top four brands – plant and fruit-based extracts in C&T. ‘pollution protection’ and ‘sweat defence’
Nivea, Dove, L’Oréal Paris and Colgate – Functional claims such as ‘UV will increase, given consumers’ desire for
accounting for a combined value share of defence’, ‘anti-hairfall’ and ‘anti-ageing’ efficient personal-care solutions. Ethical
6.4% in 2017. The overall share of private are being used to make cosmetics and claims such as ‘sustainably sourced’ and
label products in the global C&T industry toiletries appealing to consumers ‘vegan’ will remain in vogue, as brands
increased from 3.2% in 2012 to 3.5% in who seek quick and effective results. try to increase their appeal across a
2017, with value sales reaching $14.42 Producers are also capitalising on diverse user segment.
billion in 2017. Improvements in the ‘free-from’ claims such as ‘cruelty-free’, With growing desire for simple and
quality of private label cosmetics and ‘paraben-free’ and ‘no artificial colours’ clean labelling, the demand for products
toiletries products, coupled with changing to build an ethically and socially with clear on-pack communication will
consumer perceptions of private label, conscious brand image among gain momentum. For instance, using
remain major driving factors of growth. consumers looking for personal-care simple language or recognisable
products that share their ideals. ingredients along with scientific names
Distribution channels As consumers become more savvy (such as Vitamin E for Tocopherol), will
Hypermarkets and supermarkets were the and aware of the numerous complex not only increase product appeal but also
leading distribution channel in the global ingredients used in C&T, they are build trust through transparency.
C&T industry, with a value share of 34.5% increasingly reading product labels. Manufacturers will continue to innovate
in 2017 attributed to the availability of a As many as 42% pay high or very high with new formats, designs and value-added
wide range of personal and beauty care attention to the ingredients used in the packaging features for C&T that enhance
products under one roof. Hypermarkets and beauty or grooming products they buy. user experience. Additionally, consumers’
supermarkets were followed by health and Therefore, it becomes important for desire to reduce household wastage from
beauty stores, which accounted for a value brands to provide ingredient lists, as packaging will spur manufacturers to
share of 16.5% in 2017. Among all the well as allergen information on labels focus on sustainable packaging, such as
regions, Middle East and Africa registered for safe usage. recycled materials and paperboard, as well
the highest sales of C&T products through With busy consumer lifestyles, and as biodegradable plastics.
the hypermarkets and supermarkets rising out-of-home and on-the-go usage,
channel, with a value share of 42.2%. convenient, effective, and single-use Global overview
The improving global economy will spur
Pop-up retail is the new ‘buzz’ in brand consumer spending on C&T. The global
engagement, as companies look to offer consumers C&T industry was valued at $412 billion in
2017, led by Asia-Pacific and the Americas,
the ‘bricks and mortar store’ shopping experience which accounted for value shares of 37.6%
without the high cost of permanent retail spaces. and 32.4%, respectively. An improving
global economy, driven by strong economic
Packaging formats pack formats have gained popularity in growth in emerging markets, and the
Flexible packaging was the most commonly the personal-care industry. subsequent rise in disposable income levels,
used package material in the global C&T C&T manufacturers are also focusing on are the major growth drivers. Skincare
industry, accounting for a 45.4% volume innovations such as spray-on and roll-on was the largest sector with a value share
share in 2017, followed by rigid plastics applicators for effective coverage and of 28.2% in 2017, followed by haircare and
with 38.7%. The use of rigid metal is application for maximum benefit. make-up, which accounted for value
expected to grow the fastest, at a CAGR of shares of 16.9 and 11.5% respectively.
4.0% during 2012–22, followed by flexible Future outlook
packaging at a CAGR of 3.8%. With innovation being vital for success in Growth drivers
the personal-care industry, brands are There are a number of factors influencing
Current scenario incorporating superfoods such as growth in this area:
Increasing demand for high-performance ‘probiotics’ (lactobacillus and ■ High participation of women in
cosmetics that not only nourish but also bifidobacterium), ‘green tea’, ‘algae’, the global labour force (49.5%) will
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The intelligence > Market analysis
continue to support growth in the traceability, which is challenging by virtue economies, including Brazil, Chile,
industry, as women become more of the globalisation of supply chains. Colombia and Mexico, will contribute
appearance-conscious. to the growth of the C&T industry,
■ Rising consumer confidence across Asia-Pacific focus which is projected to record a CAGR
major global markets, coupled Asia-Pacific is projected to record the of 2.4% during 2017–22. Haircare was
with the high-spending habits of fastest value growth during 2017–22. the largest sector, with a value share
millennials who enjoy spending on Asia-Pacific was the largest market in of 19.3% in 2017.
improving appearances, will drive the global C&T industry, with a value Manufacturers in the C&T industry
sales for C&T. share of 37.6% in 2017. are increasingly creating products that
adapt to specific consumer lifestyles.
An increasing number of companies in the For instance, Sweat Cosmetics and
cosmetics and toiletries industry are hopping Tarte Cosmetics launched products
with sweat and water-resistant
onto the ‘green’ bandwagon by packaging their formulations targeted at consumers
products with recycled or recyclable materials. with active lifestyles. Beauty companies
such as The Body Shop and Lush
■ Strong growth in the air travel This was led by China, Japan and Cosmetics, which claim to follow
industry, with international travel South Korea, which accounted for a ethical business practices such as
rising by 6.7% in 2016, and the combined regional value share of 77.8%. fair trade and cruelty-free testing,
subsequent rise in travel retail, The Asia-Pacific market for C&T is are expanding their footprint in Brazil,
remained a major driver for luxury forecast to record the fastest CAGR of indicating growing consumer interest in
brands such as L’Oréal and 5.7% during 2017–22 and remain the sustainable and ethical products.
Estée Lauder. largest market worldwide, with a 41.5%
value share in 2022. Growth is primarily Western Europe
Latest developments driven by the rapidly expanding Growing demand for premium products
The C&T industry is constantly adapting aspirational middle class population and rising image-consciousness among
to changing circumstances: who constantly look for better-quality men are driving value sales in Western
■ An increasing number of companies products. Skincare was the largest sector Europe, which was the third-largest
in the C&T industry are hopping onto with a value share of 43.1% in 2017. market in the global C&T industry with
the ‘green’ bandwagon by packaging In light of rising consumer distrust a value share of 21.9% in 2017. Germany
their products with recycled or of chemical and synthetic ingredients, and the UK were the top two countries for
recyclable materials. For instance, there has been a rise in C&T with C&T in the region, with a combined value
P&G developed a recyclable bottle clean label claims. For instance, L’Oréal share of 39% in 2017.
for its Head and Shoulders line India introduced its Garnier Ultra Blends The region is forecast to record a
and Dior launched Hydra Life in range of haircare with ‘no paraben’ modest CAGR of 1.9% in value terms
lightweight glass packaging. and ‘natural’ tags. ‘Pop-up’ retail is the during 2017–22. Improving eurozone
■ Rising consumer desire for a new ‘buzz’ in brand engagement, as economies and a projected rise in
premium experience is driving companies look to offer consumers consumer confidence will play a
manufacturers to use expensive and the ‘bricks and mortar store’ shopping significant role in revitalising demand
luxurious ingredients, such as gold experience without the high cost of for the industry. Skincare was the
(anti-ageing), caviar (antioxidants), permanent retail spaces. For instance, largest sector with a value share of
and diamonds (micro abrasion) in Lancôme debuted its pop-up store – 24.3% in 2017.
their cosmetics products. ‘Holiday Wonders’ – at Changi Airport European consumers are highly
in Singapore (open from 6 October 2017 conscious of the social and ecological
Future inhibitors to 10 November 2017). impact of products they purchase. In
With governments focusing on reducing response to this, companies such as
the environmental impact of cosmetics, The Americas Weleda and P&G launched products
manufacturers might be required to alter The Americas emerged as the second- packaged with recycled materials.
their product formulations. For instance, the largest global market for cosmetics and With the male beauty segment
Swedish Government plans to introduce toiletries, with a value share of 32.4% growing at a rapid pace, an increasing
legislation to reduce the use of substances in 2017. The region was dominated by number of companies are launching
such as triclosan and triclocarban in the US, with a value share of 52.6%, male-specific products. For instance,
cosmetics as they are harmful to the where increasing income levels is L’Oréal partnered with the celebrity
environment. As consumers seek more driving premiumisation in the market. David Beckham on a men’s grooming
information about the products they use, On the other hand, the expanding brand called House 99, which launched
companies must focus more on ingredient middle-income population in developing in the UK in February 2018.
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Insight > Materials
Up close and
personal
The growing UK beauty and personal-care market
was worth more than £15 billion in 2017. To differentiate
themselves in this glamorous and crowded sector,
brands have to go beyond being aesthetically pleasing
because consumers now expect the ‘whole package’.
Emma-Jane Batey speaks to a range of beauty
brands about how they are meeting market demands.
B
eauty products across all price and product quality, we have been
points are expected to be careful to balance a very clean, vintage-
effective, but now consumers apothecary type of look while keeping
demand that they are equally appealing certain Japanese elements, like the
and efficacious. People are savvy about Japanese language symbols in the
what they put on their skin, with logo, as well as using the original
ingredients, packaging and the products Yu-Be orange colour that can be seen
themselves coming under increasing throughout the product line.”
scrutiny – and rightly so. No brand Graham then discusses how the surge
deserves an easy ride, particularly when in popularity for Asian beauty products
it comes to the highly competitive has bolstered Yu-Be’s success. “The
beauty sector. recent interest in Korean products,
as well as the ongoing interest in
The beauty of packaging other Asian beauty products,
Take Japanese skincare company Yu-Be: especially for skin and hair,
its reputation as an ‘only available in gives us a great opportunity
Japan’ brand has been a valuable to educate shoppers about
element in its packaging and growing our long history in Japan,
popularity globally. For many years, and our high-quality and
the company’s famous multipurpose, effective products.
vitamin-enriched skin cream was a “We will continue
special gift purchased by travellers to develop new,
visiting Japan; so when a Japanese-US quality skincare
businessman decided to import it, he
had the determination to ensure that the
brand remained exclusive, keeping
its iconic status alive.
Yu-Be sales and marketing
director Matthew Graham
says, “Yu-Be celebrated its
60th anniversary in 2017,
and our famous Yu-Be
Moisturizing Skin Cream is
one of Japan’s longest and
bestselling skin products.
In order to convey a
sense of Japanese history
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Insight > Materials
Alpha-H’s packaging emphasises the elegance of its products and protects premium ingredients.
products to beauty salons and skin supporting green and Earth-friendly
clinics, and also has a retail offering; brands, and products that have a
the company’s range includes minimal impact on the environment.
supersized and deluxe minis. Brands are, therefore, becoming
“We need to ensure that our more socially responsible with their
packaging protects our powerful formulations, manufacturing and
Yu-Be’s packaging pays homage to its active ingredients, such as glycolic packaging. Our packaging is clean,
Japanese roots and its exclusivity in the country.
acid, while also securing the potency minimal and functional, and we are
products in Japan and bring them of our most delicate ingredients, always looking for ways to reduce our
to market as we always have. In including vitamins, antioxidants, and footprint on planet Earth, without
January 2018, we launched the Yu-Be flower and fruit acids,” explains Tom being overpackaged or overhyped.”
Advanced Formula Pure Hydration Ogden, European business manager at
Cream, which is made without Alpha-H. “Our ethlylene vinyl alcohol Affordable luxury
any camphor extract or paraben (EVOH) tubes are also UV-coated, The demand for feel-good products in
preservatives. The packaging will be providing excellent barrier protection the beauty sector is high across all price
very similar to the original; however, to oxygen and humidity to preserve the points, with the expectation that efficacy
we will be using green for the colour active ingredients inside. Our EVOH comes as standard. For leading UK-based
scheme instead of the original orange, tubes and high-density polyethylene colour-cosmetics manufacturer Pascalle
so customers can distinguish the two bottles are recyclable.” Cosmetics, its ability to develop and
different creams from each other.” The new Alpha-H Liquid Gold manufacture a wide range of contract-fill
Another pioneering skincare Firming Eye Cream is a great example and private-label cosmetics puts it at the
brand, Alpha-H, uses its packaging to of ‘responsible, functional luxury’, with apex of quality and affordability.
represent the ‘simplicity, understated its unique and precise application “We pride ourselves on having 30
elegance and sustainability’ of the through a cool-touch metallic years’ plus experience in cosmetic
product within. It provides professional applicator. Ogden notes that design and manufacturing. We work with
“sustainability and packaging are international retailers and independent
major areas in the beauty sector that brands, offering full project management
are undergoing change. People are to design, develop and create cosmetics
ranges that are manufactured here at our
factory in Stoke on Trent,” states Emma
Dodd, business development manager.
“Pascalle also owns six cosmetics
brands that are available to purchase
globally, including our entry price point
Miss Beauty London collection to our
mid and premium ranges MeMeMe and
Beauty Pie ensures that its packaging is as environmentally friendly as possible. Kubiss,” she adds.
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CPI003_105_Materials.indd 10 06/12/2018 11:31Insight > Materials
The MeMeMe brand offers high-end
premium formulations that create Hygiene on the go
‘gorgeous and distinctive cosmetics at Kruidvat Solait Facial Treatment Serum delivers moisturisation and cooling for sun-
an affordable price’. Dodd continues, parched skin. The cardboard box contains seven 2ml glass ampoules of serum, giving
“Our passion at MeMeMe lies within a premium feel to this private-label brand. The convenient minis can be used at any
creating gorgeous, feminine and spirited time for instant relief.
Little Dome Hollywood Star toothpaste comes in a rigid plastic ball with pump
cosmetics for our customers. We are a
dispenser. It is visually striking compared with the usual tubes, there is no screw cap to
celebration of individualism, believing lose, and the pump ensures it is mess-free and dispenses the correct amount.
that the best in beauty and design Schick Hydro silk refill razor blades are offered in a multipack unit with a hook for
should be affordable, and adored in every hanging in the bathroom. Rather than a rigid plastic compartment box, the perforated
container means individual blades can be torn off for use on the go, and the heat-
girl’s handbag. Mixing the themes of
sealed, flexible-film cover protects the razors’ moisturising strips.
mythology, romance and the bohemian Waterless Gillette Venus is a premium disposable razor sold in single packs. There
spirit, MeMeMe is a brand that prides is a lubricating soft gel built into the squeezy bottle handle, which is dispensed onto the
itself on the quality of its formulations skin from a sponge pad. The small, handy pack is made of firm plastic casing with a
board backing card for total visibility.
and unique approach.”
The new cream from Pacific Shaving is unusual as it comes in a resealable, flexible
Packaging plays an important role pouch. Each pouch holds 40 water-soluble mini pods, more typically used in laundry
in establishing its identity. “MeMeMe detergents, to control dosing, save the mess of foams and oils, and to allow small
features black and cream-themed high- amounts to be carried around with no canister or bottle needed.
end componentry, and the MeMeMe Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask to Clear Pores is an example
of creative primary and secondary packaging working together. The outer packaging
signature pattern and cherub feature is a cardboard box with an image of the standard tube at the front and cut-out holes
heavily on the packaging as well. at the back. Inside, there is a blister pack of four tear-off pods, each with 5ml of the
Many items in the range are presented face mask, which protrude out of the holes. Showing off the pods adds intrigue for
in cardboard packaging to create a the shopper, and the blister pack, with its sealed tear-off plastic film, keeps the
product fresh.
unique look and feel,” affirms Dodd.
She then concentrates on trends and Inclusive beauty
how the beauty brand is meeting them, Sleek Lifeproof Foundation is packaged in a standard plastic squeezy tube with a
saying, “We are seeing trends across twist-off lid at the base. Its design is simple and the product is visible through the
transparent section. The neutral black, white and grey colours of the tube remove
cardboard palettes, and are developing
any suggestion of gender. This marries with the brand’s campaign against gender
contour and highlight palettes in bias – offering the same product to all people and not labelling it as ‘for men’ or
card palettes that feature spot using pink tones for women.
UV to respond to the trend, which Making the current trend of facial tissue masks applicable to men has been
achieved subtly, highlighting the use of soothing botanicals for shaven skin, and M
complements our existing card lipstick
Skin Care’s Men’s Facial Sheet Mask for post-shave cooling does just that. The
case, eye palettes and blush boxes.” pastel blue hue with stark typography doesn’t appear to be aggressively ‘for men’
but is delicate and calming to match the product.
Beauty revolution Preserve Triple Razors are reusable handles with two blade cartridges in a carry
There is one fresh beauty brand that case. The key aspect being that the razor handle itself is rigid plastic from recycled
yogurt pots, while the PET, rigid display clam case is made from 100% post-
is breaking the mould: Beauty Pie was consumer waste. The paper information leaflet encourages recycling and is printed
founded by well-known business with soy inks. It is branded for men and women, which is rare in this sector, and is
pioneer Marcia Kilgore – who is deemed BPA-free and not tested on animals.
as “beauty royalty” by the Guardian’s Jecca Correct and Conceal Palette is unisex and comes in an elegant, neutral
design. The pack is intended for use by transgender individuals but uses sleek,
Sali Hughes – and is rapidly gaining simple colours and designs in its packaging to help it appeal to any person wanting
evangelical fans due to its innovative to wear concealer as part of their daily make-up routine or to cover blemishes.
buyers’ club. The premise is clear, says
a Beauty Pie spokesperson who adds,
“At Beauty Pie, our mission is to bring brands so appealing, while making the plastic jars, and we’ve chosen plant-
our members the world’s best beauty company luxurious and affordable. based inks and recyclable board for our
products at a totally transparent factory “We’re a team of beauty product cartons,” explains the spokesperson.
cost. No mumbo-jumbo. No middlemen. obsessives who have worked in the Innovations in beauty packaging
No mark-ups.” beauty industry for aeons. We’re working show that it pays to think outside
That complete transparency is clearly to make our packaging as ecologically the box. Consumers are increasingly
represented on Beauty Pie’s website: a conscious as possible. Too much demanding that what they put on their
£20 lipstick costs just £2.24 to members, cosmetic packaging ends up in a landfill, face is kind to the world around them;
with £1.61 of that accounting for the and the more complex the componentry, from the ingredients used to how
product and packaging. Its dynamic the less easily it can be broken down for packaging tells the brand’s story,
black and white packaging retains the recycling. We don’t use over-the-top skincare and beauty products must go
distinctive look that makes luxury beauty fancy caps, metal cladding or rigid way beyond just being effective.
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 11
CPI003_105_Materials.indd 11 06/12/2018 11:31Company insight
Ideas shaped in metal
Specialising in custom metal packaging production, with a focus on the luxury cosmetics
industry, Pack-Man is taking steps to ensure its operations are as eco-friendly as possible.
P
ack-Man, founded in 2014, specialises in custom metal
packaging production, and its work is defined by its
precision. To maintain its production standards and
ensure quick turnaround, product design, processing and finishing
are done entirely in-house. The company’s agile supply chain
allows it to complete limited to large volume orders and it is
a certified, preferred supplier to major brands in the luxury
cosmetics industry.
One step forward The TK520 treatment method produces sturdier and more lustrous
In 2017, Pack-Man integrated the revolutionary TK520 aluminium aluminium that is also 100% recyclable.
treatment method into its manufacturing process. This gives its injection into its manufacturing processes. Pack-Man’s eco-
products a premium finish, superior tensile strength and an infinite friendly operations are certified compliant with applicable
array of colour options. TK520 aluminium is sturdier and more environmental standards and legislation, generating zero waste
lustrous than untreated aluminium, and is also 100% recyclable. water and particle emissions. By 2020, its operations will be
In 2019, the company will be launching its inventive ‘Skincare’ powered partly by solar energy and alternative energy sources.
range of packaging.
Create clean Further information
Pack-Man
Pack-Man opened its green factory in September 2018 to meet www.pack-man.fr
increased demand and to fully integrate anodizing and plastic
Packman.indd 3 15/11/2018 14:10
12 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com
CPI003_Pack Man.indd 12 06/12/2018 11:52Company insight
A perfect fit
Aarts Plastics produces packaging and its components for the high-end cosmetics industry.
A
arts Plastics has been creating items for the prototype item can produced along with a pilot mould
high-end cosmetic space for decades. The (for injection projects) if requested, ensuring a limited run
success of the company lies in its vast can be set to test production prior to full release. After the
experience in product and mould development, its testing phase has been concluded, the full mould
attention to upcoming trends in the market and, of can be developed, and depending on the project
course, some of the finest assembly and finishing requirements, can be completed as a single cavity,
techniques in the business. These factors, combined multicavity or multicavity stack mould.
with high-volume robotic production, makes Aarts Some of the more popular decoration options
Plastics a perfect fit for many cosmetic brands. the company offers include metallisation, lacquering
Aarts offers the luxury cosmetic market a small and, of course, industry standard hot-stamping
standard range, but the company’s secret weapon and screen-printing.
is its custom development division, which caters From 2019, the company will invest in a high-
to numerous fragrance and cosmetic companies Aarts works in the high end. speed digital printing unit. This single-pass full-
all over Europe. From perfume caps to powder colour printing unit can be used for flat and domed
compacts, and outstanding design to the selection of the highest- surfaces like caps and compacts. With regard to technical expertise
grade materials, Aarts makes sure that the development of new and design capabilities, Aarts is a name that is swiftly becoming
packaging concepts runs smoothly and efficiently. inextricable from luxury cosmetic and fragrance packaging.
For most pieces, the process the company uses to convert an
idea into a physical reality is the hallmark of its renown. Starting
with an engagement with the client to define exact parameters for Further information
Aarts Plastics
the project, a brief is developed that will lead to the actual design www.aartsplastics.nl/uk
phase. Once a 3D model has been generated and approved, a
• Triple AAA
• Production partner for bespoke
cosmetic packaging
• Smart production solutions
• Most advanced moulding techniques
• High volume robotic production
Aarts Plastics BV – Vijzelweg 8 · 5145NK Waalwijk The Netherlands •www.aartsplastics.nl · info@aartsplastics.nl • phone +31 416 332959
Aarts.indd 3 13/11/2018 13:10
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 13
CPI003_Aarts Plastics.indd 13 06/12/2018 11:51Viva Packaging.indd 1 07/12/2018 09:57
Company insight
Drive innovation
in the tube market
Synergy and in-house production are watchwords in almost every industry, but Viva
Packaging believes it has mastered the way it implements both into its production process.
V
iva Packaging manufactures life cycle. When elaborate graphics are
injection-moulded squeezable printed onto an IML, it is important to
tubes with in-mould labels. Its protect the artwork, as the tube is going
main markets are the ones for personal- to be filled and then passed through a
care products, haircare and skincare, but distribution process, and may even end
other markets, such as food or industrial up in a purse or handbag.
products like car finishing products, are
also showing keen interest. Environmentally friendly tubes
Global brands are looking for for the circular economy
synergies, and having three global Traditionally, tubes are manufactured
production locations is a key benefit for with the sleeve and shoulder produced
Viva and its customers. Global brands separately and then welded together, and
can produce uniform products across the cap is usually sourced externally.
different locations, close to their markets. Using Viva’s IML technology, the
With production facilities in Asia, North sleeve, shoulder and decoration are
America and Europe, Viva can provide created in one manufacturing step –
consistent packaging products across by injection-moulding with IML –
different territories. and Viva manufactures all components
Viva’s PP IML tubes return to their original shape rather than
Viva helps brands differentiate wrinkling or deforming, resulting in a higher perceived value. in-house. Every component is moulded,
themselves through their tubes. printed and assembled in the same
Competition is tough and brands are looking for better-quality plant, and Viva controls the supply chain of the caps, which has
graphics, better shelf impact and to be at the forefront of innovation. a big impact on its throughput times.
Viva’s R&D department is working hard to develop future solutions Life-cycle analysis (LCA) of Viva’s tubes – taking resin sourcing
that brands will need, such as dual chamber tubes, tubes made from into account along with the amount of energy spent to produce a
recycled material and special applicator tubes. This is what Viva tube, all the way through to the finished tube – shows that the Viva
stands for: driving the innovation in the tube market at the speed of injection-moulded tube with in-mould label saves, on average, up to
light. Its strong family ownership structure, with very short decision- 35% of the energy used in production compared to any competing
making processes, is the key to its ability to grow quickly. technology. Retailers are asking suppliers what they can contribute
in terms of sustainability and Viva can help them with its 100%
Brands and portfolio recyclable PP IML tubes.
Viva supplies to brands like John Frieda, REN Skincare, Clearasil and The tube is made from one single resin – Polypropylene No. 5 –
L’Oréal – as well as to strong, creative and green brands like Pacifica which means at the end of its life cycle it can be recycled without
and Desert Essence, which have found the perfect fit with Viva’s having to separate tube and cap. A traditional tube is made from
impacting graphics through a very sustainable tube packaging different materials. The cap, tube and shoulder are made from
(which requires up to 35% less energy to produce and is 100% different resins, with the label made from yet another material,
recyclable, with closed loop initiatives initiated with retail). and it is often nearly impossible to separate these components
As customers embrace Viva’s IML tubes, they discover the from the tube for recycling.
advantages of the more rigid and high-end feel of PP IML tubes. Viva uses a high degree of post-consumer recycled (PCR)
These tubes bounce back to their original shape rather than material for the tube sleeve, and up to 100% for the caps used on its
wrinkling or deforming, giving them a higher perceived value, and tubes. The disadvantages of PCR material – discoloration, only being
the packaging looks untouched during the tubes’ entire life cycle. available in darker colours – are neutralised by the use of IML labels
IMLs are printed on a flat surface, enabling Viva to print almost covering the entire tube body with decoration.
any type of graphic – flexo, offset, silk screen, cold foil and many
more – on its state-of-the-art printing press. This hybrid printing Further information
press combines these options and achieves the most striking Viva Packaging
www.viva-healthcare.com
graphics on the in-mould label. Viva goes even further, ensuring the
frank.vandenkieboom@vivapackaging.be
tube is resistant and graphics appear new during the tube’s entire
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 15
CPI003_Viva Packaging.indd 15 06/12/2018 11:54Insight > Materials
Tube
takeover
Tubes have proved to be effective, and cost-effective, packaging components across the
cosmetics and skincare industries for many years, and are increasingly being adopted by
other markets. Cosmetics Packaging Insight selects a number of products featuring tubes
as primary packaging components from GlobalData’s pack track database, and highlights
the features that make these products innovative and improvements on what came before.
U
biquitous and more than fit for
purpose, tubes have long been
a mainstay in the cosmetics
and skincare markets, but their rise to
innovation superstars has been a more
recent trend. The following products
have been chosen from GlobalData’s
pack track database as being a major
improvement and innovation, and
having a tube as a primary packaging
component. All of these products have
been launched over the past six months.
Etude Corporation: four-tipped,
pen-style applicator
South Korea’s Etude Corporation has
launched its brow marker tint with
a four-tipped, pen-style applicator. The
company claims that its smudge-proof
formula will last for two to three days.
Packaging construction consists
of a matt-printed cartonboard carton
with straight tuck ends; inside is an
injection-moulded brown plastics, pen-
style rigid tube with silver-coloured
and printed decoration.
The key innovation in this product
is the four-pronged applicator for
eyebrow tint colour. A multi-tip
marker-type applicator helps to
give a natural, hair-like look very
quickly; however, it is difficult to
draw very fine lines. The pen-
type pack is easy to hold
and use, and can be carried
discreetly in a handbag for
use on the go. The integral
applicator enhances the
16 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com
CPI003_104_Tubes.indd 16 06/12/2018 11:27Insight > Materials
pack’s suitability for on-the-go touch- for touching up grey roots at the hairline squeeze the tube to start product flow into
ups since no additional tools are and on eyebrows. It claims that the “self- the brush. Replacing the screw cap will
required. The pack requires no priming adjusting colour technology blends to automatically return the base of the brush
for use, though it may be necessary to match any hair colour” and that the to its original position and stop the flow.
shake the pen to aid colour flow into product is free from peroxide, parabens, The automatically activated pull-push
the applicator tip. ammonia, harsh chemicals and permanent applicator eliminates direct hand contact
dyes. The product comes in an injection- with the product, resulting in a quick, clean
Bliss: Fab Girl Sixpack moulded black plastics rigid tube with and hygienic usage experience.
Bliss has launched a major tube a crayon-type colour stick at one end, The pack is inverted for presentation
innovation into the skincare market with covered by an injection-moulded black and storage, and stands on its cap. Gravity
its Fab Girl Sixpack, core-forming gel, plastics snap-on cap. Although Tru Tone means that the product naturally falls
which it claims has a “powerful blend in India has previously sold a solid stick towards the closure ready for dispensing.
of six core-stimulating ingredients” that touch-up colour, this is the first stick-type The tube is quite tall and slender, so
“helps visibly tone, tighten and firm” the product with an integral blending sponge it fits comfortably in the hand for easy
abdominal area. on the market. application. The flexible tube format
The gel is housed in an injection- The actual size of the stick is illustrated means that once the cap has been opened,
moulded white plastics airless pump on one side of the outer pack so that it is easy to squeeze out the mask on to
dispenser tube with three-colour printed consumers are not deceived by the larger the brush and skin.
decoration around the body. The product carton. This brand’s range also includes
also contains a bi-injection moulded Root Touch-up Magnetic Powder in a Hard Candy: Sheer Envy
plastics closure with spring-activated handy compact-style pack with pull-out primer stick
pump dispensing mechanism and an sponge applicator. One end of the pack In make-up, Hard Candy has created its
injection-moulded clear plastics friction-fit features coloured powder, compressed into Sheer Envy primer stick, which it says
over-cap with moulded node to close off a solid stick format that can be applied prepares the skin for “flawless make-up
the dispensing aperture. directly to the hair roots, while the other application” and to have a cooling effect.
Other interesting applications of closures end has a small sponge applicator to blend Primer stick is an injection-moulded
with integral massage devices include the colour for a more natural look. The dual- opaque rigid white plastics tube with twist-
Voltaren pain-relief gel (laminate tube with ended stick format means that there is no up dispensing actuator; it is divided in half,
push-pull type closure); Nivea firming need for the consumer’s hands to come so the top part forms a friction-fit lid, and
shower gel (HDPE bottle with massage into direct contact with the colour, making the bottom part has a twist-up dispensing
head that has adjustable firmness); and a usage quick, clean and easy. The format is mechanism (rotating the lower part pushes
H20 Plus Aquafirm skin-firming gel (PP ideal for use on the go or when travelling the inner product barrel upwards) and
bottle with roller-type massager). and the stick can be carried easily in a direct-printed decoration over the tube
In this product, the main feature is the handbag, pocket or make-up bag. (graduated pearlised blue to white and back
airless tube with integral massage head to blue) with the product name at the front
incorporated into the pump dispenser Yes To: Superblueberries printed with metallised effect.
actuator. The pump closure does not sleeping mask A portable twist-up tube format for
require priming for use (twisting open, Another US innovation, this time from make-up primer is a new and exciting
for example) and the pack is ready to use Yes To, which has launched a skincare development, and what generates
as soon as the over-cap has been removed: and beauty range this year, all of which the major improvement rating for the
just invert the pack and press the massage have been considerable improvements innovation factor. An easy to hold, stick-
head firmly on to the abdominal area to in the sector. The latest is its Yes To type pack format makes the product
dispense a blob of gel. This format allows Superblueberries sleeping mask with instantly ready to use and easy to apply
quick, simple, one-handed dispensing Greek yogurt and probiotics. The product directly to the face. This convenient-for-
while the massage head means that gel is packed in a plastics laminate tube with applying format is perfect for on-the-go use
can be applied cleanly without using straight-end seal and an injection-moulded and would be easy to carry, for example, in
fingers. The gel dispenses repeatedly white plastics push-pull type closure with a handbag. The applicator stick means that
while the massage continues to work. purple-coloured soft brush applicator. product contact with fingers is minimised,
This format could have application in The use of a tube with brush-on which reduces the risk of potential mess.
the wider personal-care market or the application for a sleeping mask is unusual
household-care sector – for cleaning for the category. The brush-on application Tonymoly: Painting
products or stain removers, for example. extends portability of the product so it can Therapy Pack
be easily used on the go or out of the home. South Korea’s Tonymoly has brought fresh
Everpro: Beauty Gray Away As the cap is unscrewed, it pulls up the innovation to the facial-care market with
Everpro in the US has developed Beauty base of the brush and unlocks the tube the Painting Therapy Pack, a black-clay
Gray Away, a temporary hair-colour stick ready for use. The consumer needs to face mask with bamboo charcoal that
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 17
CPI003_104_Tubes.indd 17 06/12/2018 11:27Insight > Materials
Dove: DermaSpa
PÜR’s easy-to-use Joystick
exfoliator and toner. Unilever is one of the world’s leading
brand companies, and Dove is one of
its pillar brands. It’s launched DermaSpa,
a gift set that contains body lotion in an
oval PE flexible tube with straight-end
seal and an injection-moulded, pearlised
dark-blue head, along with hand cream,
also in an oval PE flexible tube with
straight-end seal and injection-moulded,
pearlised dark-blue head.
The two tubes have rather different
surface feels, with that of the hand
cream having a softer touch, while
the body lotion is rather matt and feels
slightly rough.
Avon: Anew Reversalist Infinite
Effects Night Treatment Cream
Another major cosmetics player using
tubes to enhance its packaging is
Avon, which has released the Anew
Reversalist Infinite Effects Night
Treatment Cream. This two-phase,
anti-wrinkle night cream comes in an
injection-moulded black PP rigid tube
with metallic-red printed decoration
to the body and a spring-loaded pump
dispensing closure to either end.
In consumer trials, Avon incorporated
Cambridge Design Partnership’s ‘dialog’
helps to extract impurities and break extremely dry skin in need of maximum smart-technology miniature sensors into
down dead skin cells – it’s recommended hydration). The colour of the cap and top packs to confirm whether consumers
for helping to control sebum and oil. of the tube matches the colour of the actually followed instructions to rotate
Packed in a printed opaque PP product, and is different for every variety. the usage of the two products. Pack
laminate flexible tube with straight-end contains sufficient product for at least
seal and injection-moulded head, there PÜR: Joystick eight weeks’ usage, based on using two
is a comprehensive range of masks PÜR has developed the innovative to three pumps per night.
with various colours and formulas/ Joystick, an “all-in-one” deep-pore The stand-out innovation in this
functions in the same packaging type, cleansing stick said to have an product is the double-ended pump
but with different colour codes. They exfoliator and toner that “foams on claimed to deliver “the world’s first
can be “blended depending on the contact to instantly draw out dirt, rotational anti-wrinkle night cream”. The
skin condition”. oil and impurities with charcoal and two-part product is intended to be used
The pack design introduces the Moroccan lava clay”. in weekly rotation, with phase one used
element of fun and encourages The major improvement is the use of for one week, then phase two for a week,
consumers to experiment, similar to a twist-up tube for extended portability. then back to phase one and so on. The
a painter mixing their colour palette. The format offers increased consumer double-ended tube makes it easy to
Blending different varieties changes convenience for applying the product see which product one should be using,
the colour of the product. The compared with flexible tubes or unlike side-by-side presentations or
following suggestions are listed on the pouches. Slender stick-type pack format separate packs where one could easily
manufacturer’s website: black and pink is easy to hold for use and has good forget which stage of the treatment is in
become grey (for easily irritated, oily portability for taking on the go or use. The consumer just has to remember
skin), yellow and pink become orange travelling. Product contact with fingers to flip the pack over at the start of each
(for easily irritated dry skin), white and is minimised, improving the hygiene week. The two-in-one format is handy for
yellow become lemon (for dull, dry skin), aspect of application and reducing home storage and convenient for taking
and yellow and blue become green (for potential mess. on the go.
18 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com
CPI003_104_Tubes.indd 18 06/12/2018 11:28You can also read
