NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST - CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY - Craenen

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NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST - CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY - Craenen
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

    NAPLES &
THE AMALFI COAST

       CRISTIAN BO NE T TO
      BRENDAN SAINSBU RY
NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST - CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY - Craenen
Contents
   Plan Your Trip                        4
   Welcome to Naples &
   the Amalfi Coast..................4
   Top Sights.............................6
   Eating..................................10
   Drinking & Nightlife...........12
   Shopping.............................14
   Archaeology.......................16
   Architecture & Art............. 17
   Tours & Courses................18
   For Kids...............................19
   Four Perfect Days............. 20
   Need to Know.................... 22
   Naples & the Amalfi Coast
   Neighbourhoods............... 24

Pompeii (p92) JAVEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST - CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY - Craenen
Explore                                    Survival
Naples & the                               Guide                            143
Amalfi Coast                      27       Before You Go................. 144

Centro Storico.................. 29        Arriving in Naples............145

Toledo &                                   Getting Around............... 146
Quartieri Spagnoli............. 51
                                           Essential Information.... 148
La Sanità &
                                           Language..........................152
Capodimonte.................... 65
                                           Index................................. 156
Santa Lucia & Chiaia.........77
Capri Town &
the Isle of Capri................107
                                           Special Features
Sorrento &
the Amalfi Coast.............. 121         Capella Sansevero............ 30
                                           Duomo................................ 32

Worth a Trip                               Museo Archeologico
                                           Nazionale........................... 52
Certosa e Museo
di San Martino....................74       Palazzo Reale.................... 56

Pompeii.............................. 92   Palazzo Reale
                                           di Capodimonte................ 66
Mt Vesuvius....................... 98
                                           Historic Villas.................. 108
Herculaneum
(Ercolano)........................ 100     Positano............................122

Reggia di Caserta........... 104           Ravello...............................128
NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST - CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY - Craenen
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to
Naples & the Amalfi Coast
Naples is raw, high-octane energy, a place of soul-stirring art and pano-
ramas, spontaneous conversations and unexpected elegance. It’s here
that you’ll find Italy’s most intoxicating street life, and many of its most
extraordinary paintings, sculptures and architectural treasures, not to
mention its finest pizza and espresso. Beyond it lies the seraphic Amalfi
Coast, seducer of artists and hopeless romantics for centuries.
NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST - CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY - Craenen
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

                            Top Sights
6

                            Museo Archeologico Nazionale
                            Priceless ancient art and artefacts. p52
Plan Your Trip Top Sights

                                                                                BJANKA KADIC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST - CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY - Craenen
7
                                                Palazzo
L. ROMANO/MUSEO E REAL BOSCO DI CAPODIMONTE ©

                                                Reale di
                                                Capodimonte
                                                Masterpieces in a
                                                Bourbon palace.
                                                p66

                                                                     Plan Your Trip Top Sights
JAVEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

                                                Pompeii
                                                A town frozen in
                                                time. p92

                                                Capella
MARCO CANTILE/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES ©

                                                Sansevero
                                                Extraordinary
                                                sculptures, legend
                                                and alchemy. p30
NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST - CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY - Craenen
8

                                                                   Certosa e Museo di                 Palazzo Reale
                                                                   San Martino                        A treasure-filled royal palace. p56
                                                                   Hilltop monastery treasures. p74

                                                                                                                                            JAVEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Plan Your Trip Top Sights

                            ERIC VALENNE GEOSTORY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

                                                                                                                                            LEONID ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
                            CORTYN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

                                                                   Capri Villas                       Reggia di Caserta
                                                                   Evocative, legend-laced island     Italy’s largest, most breathtaking
                                                                   hideaways. p108                    palace. p104
NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST - CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY - Craenen
9
                        Positano                        Duomo
                        The Amalfi Coast’s photogenic   Naples’ glorious, centuries-
                        protagonist. p122               spanning cathedral. p32
LEOKS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

                                                                                                                     Plan Your Trip Top Sights
                                                                                        MITZO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
NEIRFY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

                                                                                        BRENDA KEAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

                        Ravello                         Herculaneum (Ercolano)
                        Terraced gardens and famous     A compact Roman time machine.
                        fans. p128                      p100
NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST - CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY - Craenen
20                                                 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

                                   Four Perfect Days
                                   Day 1                                                     Day 2
Plan Your Trip Four Perfect Days

                                                                                                                               TOMASZ WOZNIAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
                                                                        INU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

                                   Start with a burst of baroque                             Nibble on a sfogliatella from
                                   in the Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo                              Sfogliatella Mary (p61) while
                                   (pictured above; p38), clear                              detouring through Galleria
                                   your mind in the majolica-tiled                           Umberto I (p60) to Caffè
                                   cloister of the Complesso                                 Gambrinus (p62) for morning
                                   Monumentale di Santa Chi-                                 espresso. Catch the nearby
                                   ara (p38), then pay tribute                               shuttle bus to Palazzo Reale
                                   to the magnificent Cristo ve-                             di Capodimonte (p66), a
                                   lato sculpture inside Cappella                            palace crammed with priceless
                                   Sansevero (p30).                                          artworks.
                                   After lunch at Tandem (p41) or                            After a casual lunch at Da
                                   Salumeria (p41), lose yourself                            Luisa (p67), tour the ancient
                                   in ancient mosaics and marble                             Catacombe di San Gen-
                                   brawn at the blockbuster Mu-                              naro (p69), then scale Castel
                                   seo Archeologico Nazionale                                dell’Ovo (pictured above; p82)
                                   (p52) or critique contemporary                            for a sea-and-city panorama.
                                   art at MADRE (p39). If there’s                            Rehydrate at lo-fi waterfront
                                   still time, take in the vainglori-                        bar Al Barcadero (p88) before
                                   ous Duomo (p32) before                                    feasting on seafood at Officina
                                   dinner at Donna Romita (p41)                              del Mare (p86). Alternatively,
                                   or standout pizzeria Concet-                              hit trendy Chiaia for aperitivo
                                   tina Ai Tre Santi (p70). For a                            at Barril (p87) or Cantine
                                   nightcap, hit the bars on Piazza                          Sociali (p88) and dinner at
                                   Bellini (p150).                                           Dialetti (p85).
NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST - CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY - Craenen
21
                                Day 3                                                                 Day 4

                                                                                                                                         Plan Your Trip Four Perfect Days
                                                                   GIANNIS PAPANIKOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
RUI VALE SOUSA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

                                On day three, hop on a hydrofoil                                      Travel back two millennia on
                                to fabled Capri. Turn up before                                       day four at the ruins of Pompeii
                                the day trippers descend                                              (p92), easily reached from Na-
                                and join the local who’s-who                                          ples by Circumvesuviana train.
                                brigade at the emblematic                                             Highlights include the Villa dei
                                square La Piazzetta. Leave the                                        Misteri (p93), home to one of
                                surrounding sophisticated strut                                       the largest, most impressive
                                of shops behind as you head                                           wall paintings from ancient
                                to Giardini di Augusto (p114),                                        times. Lunch at deli-eatery
                                with flower-filled terraces and                                       Melius or Michelin-starred
                                some of the best views on the                                         President (p93) before slurp-
                                island. Enjoy a lazy lunch at                                         ing superlative caffè at Cam-
                                Il Geranio (p115) or È Divino                                         pania’s first specialty-coffee
                                (p115), then head up to Anaca-                                        roastery Campana (p13).
                                pri for a bewitching chairlift                                        Wrap things up with an (in sea-
                                ride to Monte Solaro (pictured                                        son) opera or ballet at Naples’
                                above). The peak can also be                                          world-famous Teatro San
                                reached on foot; one of many                                          Carlo (pictured above; p59) be-
                                beautiful hikes on Capri.                                             fore toasting to your Neapolitan
                                Back in Naples, call ahead                                            sojourn at cognoscenti cocktail
                                to reserve a table at classic                                         den L’Antiquario (p87).
                                Da Ettore (p84) or wine bar
                                L’Ebbrezza di Noè (p84).
22                                               ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

                              Need to Know
                              For detailed information, see Survival Guide p143

                               Language                  Daily Budget
                               Italian
                                                         Budget: Less than €100
Plan Your Trip Need to Know

                               Currency                  Dorm bed: €15–30
                               Euro (€)                  Double room in a budget hotel: €50–110
                               Visas                     Pizza or pasta lunch/dinner: €15
                               Generally not required    Bus, metro or funicular ticket: €1.10
                               for stays of up to 90     Return train ticket to Pompeii: €5.60
                               days (or at all for
                               EU nationals); some       Midrange: €100–200
                               nationalities need a      Double room in a midrange hotel: €80–180
                               Schengen visa.            Lunch and dinner in a local restaurant: €25–50

                               Money                     Three-day Artecard pass: €21
                               ATMs at Naples’           Return express-train ticket to Pompeii: €11
                               Capodichino airport
                               and major train           Top end: More than €200
                               stations; widely          Double room in a four- or five-star hotel: €150–450
                               available in towns and    Top restaurant dinner: €50–120
                               cities. Credit cards      Hydrofoil to Capri: €21.50 (one-way)
                               accepted in most
                               hotels and restaurants.   Advance Planning
                               Mobile Phones             Two months before Book your hotel and any
                               Local SIM cards can       tickets for the Teatro San Carlo.
                               be used in European,      One month before Book any cooking courses
                               Australian and some       and email the Biblioteca Nazionale to organise
                               unlocked US phones.       access to its ancient papyri.
                               Other phones must be      One to two weeks before Email the Museo
                               set to roaming.           delle Arti Sanitarie for an English-language
                               Time
                                                         tour of the Farmacia Storica degli Incurabili.
                                                         Book tickets to the Cappella Sansevero and
                               Central European Time
                                                         tables at higher-end restaurants, especially on
                               (GMT/UTC plus one
                               hour)
                                                         Capri and the Amalfi Coast in high season.
Walking Tour                                                  c
A World Heritage Wander
Naples is a city of hidden wonders, legend and                                                                    Walk Facts
contrasts, and no corner of the city illustrates this                                                             Start Port’Alba; mDante
more than the centro storico. Thread your way                                                                     End Duomo; mPiazza
from Port’Alba to the Duomo through a heady,                                                                      Cavour
evocative maze where ancient ruins rub shoulders
                                                                                                                  Length 1.8km; 2½ hours
with bohemian bars and boutiques, enigmatic
sculptures and frescoes, and the odd secret
cloister.

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121
Explore Y
Sorrento &
the Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s most bewitching
destinations. Mountains plunge into the sea in a nail-
biting vertical scene of crags, cliff-clinging abodes and
verdant woodland. From precipitous Positano to lofty
Ravello, its string of fabled towns read like a Hollywood
cast list. Its western gateway is Sorrento, a handsome
clifftop resort that, despite the package tourism,
retains its seductive southern soul.

Sorrento’s bustling heart is Piazza Tasso, with many
of the town’s sights in the streets of the centro
storico (p134) directly to the west of it. These include
the Basilica di Sant’Antonino (p136) and the Museo
Bottega della Tarsia Lignea (p135). The town’s best
bathing spot, Bagni Regina Giovanna (p135), is also to
the west, though further out of town. East of Sorrento,
both the Amalfi Coast jewels of Positano (p122) and
Ravello (p128) can be tackled as day trips, though it’s
worth spending a night in each to slow down the pace
and properly soak up their charms.

 Getting There & Around
 L Circumvesuviana trains run to Naples via Pompeii
 and Ercolano.
 J SITA Sud buses serve Naples and the Amalfi
 Coast, leaving from the bus station across from the
 Circumvesuviana train station.
 N Sorrento is the main jumping-off point for Capri
 and also has ferry connections to Naples and Amalfi
 coastal resorts during the summer months.

 Sorrento Map on p132
View of Amalfi Coast from Ravello (p128) J AV E N / S H U T T E R STO C K   ©
Top Sight        A
Positano
Deluxe, dramatic Positano is the Amalfi Coast’s         Tourist Office
pin-up, its vertiginous houses tumbling down to         %089 87 50 67
the sea in a cascade of sun-bleached peach, pink        www.aziendaturismo
and terracotta. Its steep streets and steps are no      positano.it
less photogenic, flanked by wisteria-draped ho-         Via Regina Giovanna 13
tels, smart restaurants and fashionable boutiques.
                                                        h8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat,
Yet, despite its celebrity status, a southern-Italian   to 2pm Sun May-Sep,
holiday feel lingers, from its crumbling stucco to      reduced hours rest of year
its pizza-chowing sunbathers.
156                               ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

        Index                                              See also separate subindexes for:
                                                           5 Eating p158
                                                                    pxxx
                                                           6 Drinking p158
                                                                      pxxx
                                                           3 Entertainment p158
                                                                           pXXX
                                                           7 Shopping p159
                                                                      pXXX

        A                           Basilica di Santa        shopping 117          Certosa e Museo di
                                       Restituta 33          sights 108-11, 114       San Martino 74-5
        accessible travel           Basilica di                                    Chiaia 77-89, 78, 80-1
                                                             transport 107
            148-9                      Sant’Antonino       car travel 148            drinking 87-8
        accommodation 144-5            136
                                                           Casa dei Vettii           entertainment 88
        airports 145-6              Basilica Santa Maria       94, 96                food 84-7
        Amalfi Coast 121-41,           della Sanità &
                                       Catacombe di        Casa del Fauno 94         shopping 88-9
            132-3
                                       San Gaudioso 69     Casa del                  sights 82-4
           drinking 139-40                                     Menandro 96
                                    bathrooms 151                                    transport 77
           food 137-9                                      Casa del Poeta
                                    Battistero di San                                walks 78-9
           shopping 140-1                                      Tragico 94
                                       Giovanni in                                 Chiesa & Chiostro
Index

           sights 122-31, 134-7                            Casa del Tramezzo di
                                       Fonte 33                                       di San Francesco
           transport 121
                                    Biblioteca                 Legno 103              136
        Anfiteatro 97                  Nazionale 57        Casa dello Scheletro    Chiesa del Gesù
        aperitivi 13, 88            boat travel 148            101                    Nuovo 38
        archaeological sites &      Borgo Orefici 48-9,    Casa di Nettuno e       Chiesa della Certosa
            ruins 16, see also                                 Anfitrite 102          75
                                       48
            individual sites                               Castel dell’Ovo 79,     Chiesa di San
                                    bus travel 141, 147
        architecture 17                                        82-3                   Domenico
                                    business hours 149
        area codes 151                                     Castel Nuovo 60-1          Maggiore 38-9
                                                           Catacombe di San        Chiesa di San
        art 17, 83                  C
        ATMs 150                                               Gennaro 69             Giovanni a Mare
                                    Capella di San         cell phones 22, 151        49
        B                              Gennaro 33          Centro Storico 29-47,   Chiesa di San Pietro
                                    Cappella Sansevero         34, 36-7               a Maiella 35
        Bagni Regina                   30-1, 35                                    Chiesa di Santa
                                                             drinking 44-6
           Giovanna 135             Capodimonte 65-71,                                Maria Assunta
                                                             food 41-4
        baroque art 17                 68                                             123
                                                             itineraries 34-5
        Barrel Arches 103             food 70-1                                    Chiesa di Santa
                                                             shopping 46-7            Maria del
        Basilica di San               shopping 71
           Lorenzo                                           sights 30-3,             Carmine 49
                                      sights 66-7, 69-70        38-40
           Maggiore 35                                                             Chiesa di Santa
                                      transport 65           transport 29             Teresa a
                                    Capri Town 107-17,       walks 34-5               Chiaia 79
          Sights 000                   112-13              Certosa di San          Chiesa di Sant’Eligio
          Map Pages 000               drinking 117             Giacomo 114            Maggiore 49
                                      food 115-17
157
Chiesa di Santo            drinks 12, 13             Grotta Azzurra 115          food 70-1
    Stefano 114            driving, see car travel                               shopping 71
Chiesa e Chiostro          Duomo (Naples)            H                           sights 66-7, 69-70
    di San Gregorio            32-3, 35                                          transport 65
    Armeno 35, 40                                    Herculaneum
                           Duomo (Sorrento)              (Ercolano) 100-3,    La Torretta di
children, travel               136-7                                              Mergellina 91
                                                         102
    with 19
                                                     highlights 6-9           language 152-3
Chiostro Grande 75         E                         hiking, see also walks   lesbian travellers 150
Cimitero delle
    Fontanelle 69          electricity 150             Positano 127           LGBT travellers 150
climate 144                emergencies 150             Ravello 131            limoncello 12
clubs 13                   entertainment,            history 16               Lungomare 83
                               see individual        holidays 150-1           Lupanare 96
cocktails 13                   neighbourhoods,
coffee 12, 13                                        horse riding 99
                               Entertainment                                  M
Complesso                      subindex              hydrofoil travel 148
    Monumentale di         Ercole (Hercules) 53                               MADRE 39-40
    San Lorenzo            etiquette 149
                                                     I                        Marina Chiaiolella
    Maggiore 39                                      Il Vallone dei Mulino       119
Complesso                  F                             135-6                Marina Corricella
    Monumentale di                                   immigration 151             119
    Santa Chiara 38        family travel 19
                                                     Isle of Capri 107-17,    Marina Grande 134
cooking courses 18         fashion 15
                                                         112-13               Mercato 48-9, 48
   Naples 85               ferry travel 148
                                                        drinking 117          Mergellina 90-1, 90

                                                                                                       Index
   Ravello 129             food 10-11, 15, see
                               also individual          food 115-17           metro travel 146-7
   Sorrento 137
                               neighbourhoods,          shopping 117          Minori 131
costs 22, 149-50
                               Eating subindex          sights 108-11, 114    mobile phones 22, 151
crafts 15
                           Foro 93                      transport 107         Molo Luise 91
credit cards 150
                           Franco Senesi 123         Isola di Vivara 119      money 22, 149, 150
Cristo velato 31
                           frescoes 31, 54           Italian language 152-3   mosaics 53
currency 22
                           funicular travel 147-8    itineraries 20-1         motorcycle travel
                                                        Borgo Orefici 48-9,      148
D                          G                                                  Mt Vesuvius 98-9
                                                           48
dangers, see safety                                     Centro Storico        Munthe, Axel 111
                           Galleria Borbonica
Decumano Massimo               82                          34-5, 35           Museo Archeologico
   102                                                  Chiaia 78-9, 78          Nazionale 52-5,
                           Galleria Lia Rumma
design 15                      83                       Mercato 48-9, 48         55
desserts 10                Galleria Umberto I                                 Museo Bottega della
                                                        Mergellina 90-1, 90
disabilities, travellers       60                                                Tarsia Lignea 135
                                                        Positano 127
   with 148-9              Gallerie d’Italia –                                Museo Correale di
                                                        Ravello 131              Terranova 135
discount cards                 Palazzo Zevallos
   149-50                                               Santa Lucia 78-9,     Museo del Corallo
                               Stigliano 59-60
                                                           78                    Camo 131
                           galleries 17
drinking 12-13, see                                     Vomero 72-3, 72       Museo delle Arti
                           gardens 114, 129
    also                                                                         Sanitarie 40
                           gay travellers 150        L
    individual                                                                Museo di
    neighbourhoods,        Giardini di Augusto
                                                                                 Capodimonte 67
    Drinking subindex          114                   La Sanità 65-71, 68
                                                                              Museo Pignatelli 82
158

        N                       Pompeii 92-7, 95         shopping 14-15, see     Toledo Metro
                                Port’Alba 35                also individual          Station 60
        Napoli Sotterranea                                  neighbourhoods,      top sights 6-9
                                Positano 122-7, 125
           40-1                                             Shopping subindex
                                Procida Island 118-19,                           Toro Farnese 53
        nightlife 12-13                                  shrines 43
                                   118                                           Torre-Museo 129
                                                         SITA buses 141          tourist information 151
        O                       public holidays 150-1
                                                         Sorrento 121-41,        tours 18
        opening hours 149       Q                           132-3
                                                                                 train travel 146-7
                                                           drinking 139-40
                                Quartieri Spagnoli                               transport 23, 145-8
        P                                                  food 137-9
                                   51-63, 58
        palaces 17                drinking 62-3
                                                           shopping 140-1        V
                                                           sights 134-7
        Palazzo dello             entertainment 63                               vacations 150-1
           Spagnolo 69-70                                  transport 121
                                  food 61-2                                      Via Giordano 73
        Palazzo Mannajuolo                               Spiaggia del Fornillo
                                  shopping 63               124                  Via Partenope 79
           79, 82
                                  sights 52-7, 59-61     Spiaggia di Chiaia      Via Scarlatti 73
        Palazzo Murat 123
                                  transport 51              119                  Vico San Domenico
        Palazzo Reale 56-7
                                                         Spiaggia Grande 124          Maggiore 35
        Palazzo Reale di        R                                                Villa Cimbrone 130
           Capodimonte
           66-7                 Ravello 128-31, 130      T                       Villa Comunale 79,
                                                                                      83-4
        Palazzo Sanfelice 70    Reggia di Caserta        taxes 14
                                                                                 Villa Comunale Park
        Parco di                   104-5                 taxis 148                    137
Index

           Capodimonte 67       Rocco, Gregorio          Teatro Grande 97        Villa dei Misteri 93
        Parco Nazionale del        Maria 43              Teatro San Carlo 59
           Vesuvio 99                                                            Villa Jovis 109, 111
                                                         telephone services
        Parco Reale 105         S                            22, 151
                                                                                 Villa Lysis 109
        passports 151                                                            Villa Maria 79
                                safety 151               Terme Femminili 103
        pasta 10                                                                 Villa Rufolo 129
                                Salto di Tiberio 111     Terme Maschili 101
        Piazza Bellini 35                                                        Villa San Michele di
                                Santa Lucia 77-89,       Terme Stabiane 93-4          Axel Munthe 111
        Piazza dei Martiri 79      78, 80-1              Terra Murata 119        villas 17, 108-11
        Piazza Duomo              drinking 87-8          theft 151
           130-1                                                                 visas 22, 151
                                  entertainment 88       Thomas Dane
        Piazza Olmo 119                                                          Vomero 72-3, 72
                                  food 84-7                  Gallery 83
        Piazza Umberto I 114                             Tiberius, Emperor 111
        Piazza Vanvitelli 73
                                  shopping 88-9                                  W
                                  sights 82-4            time 22
        Piazzetta del Leone                              tipping 150             walks
                                  transport 77
           91                                                                      Borgo Orefici 48-9,
                                  walks 78-9             Toffini Academy 85
        pickpocketing 151                                                            48
                                Santa Maria del          toilets 151
        Pio Monte della            Castello Circuit                                Centro Storico
                                                         Toledo 51-63, 58
           Misericordia 38         127                                               34-5, 35
                                                            drinking 62-3
        pizza 10, 11            Scala 131                                          Chiaia 78-9, 78
        planning 22-3                                       entertainment 63
                                seafood 11                                         Mercato 48-9, 48
                                                            food 61-2
                                Sede degli Augustali                               Mergellina 90-1, 90
                                                            shopping 63
                                   101                                             Positano 127
            Sights 000                                      sights 52-7, 59-61
                                Sedile Dominova                                    Ravello 131
            Map Pages 000                                   transport 51
                                   136
159
  Santa Lucia 78-9, 78    La Campagnola 33         Trattoria Mangia e       Centro di Musica
  Vomero 72-3, 72         La Cantinaccia del           Bevi 43-4               Antica Pietà de’
                              Popolo 138           Trattoria San               Turchini 63
weather 144
                          La Capannina 117             Ferdinando 57        Music on the Rocks 123
websites 144
                          La Conchiglia 119        Vero GastroBar 42        Spazio Intolab 45
wine 13
                          La Pignasecca 60         Viva Lo Re 101
                          La Stanza del Gusto      Zi’Ntonio 138-9
5 Eating                      53                                            7 Shopping
                          Le Arcate 109            6 Drinking               Anna Matuozzo 91
Ai Monti Lattari 60
                          L’Ebbrezza di Noè                                 Asad Ventrella:
Al Grottino 116               84-5                 Al Barcadero 88              Contemporastudio
Antica Cantina            Lo Sfizio 109            Ba-Bar 87                    88-9
    Sepe 71
                          Martucci 105             Bar dal Cavaliere 119    Bottega 21 46, 140
Antica Osteria Da
                          Next2 126                Bar Internazionale 127   Carthusia I Profumi di
    Tonino 85
                          ’O Sfizio 42             Barril 87                    Capri 117
Antica Pizza Fritta
                          Officina del Mare 86     Bollicine 140            Ceramiche Maria
    da Zia Esterina
                          O’Puledrone 137          Cafè Latino 140              Grazia 124
    Sorbillo 61-2
                          Osteria della            Caffè dell’Epoca 44      Da Costanzo 117
Antica Pizzeria e
    Trattoria al ’22 61       Mattonella 61        Caffè Gambrinus 62       E. Marinella 79
AZZ! 138                  Pasticceria              Caffè Mexico 63          Fratelli D’Angelo di
                              Mennella 85                                       Donato 49
Babel 129                                          Cantine Sociali 88
                          Pasticceria                                       Kiphy 47
Casa Mele 126                                      D’Anton 139

                                                                                                     Index
                              Poppella 71                                   La Bottega di Brunella
C’era Una Volta 127                                Il Birraiuolo 62-3
                          Pescheria Mattiucci                                   124
Chalet Ciro                                        Jamón 44
                              86                                            La Botteguccia de
    Mergellina 91                                  La Pergola 140
                          Pizzeria Da Franco                                    Giovanni 124
Cibi Cotti 91                                      L’Antiquario 87
                              138                                           La Parissienne 117
Concettina Ai Tre                                  Libreria Berisio
                          Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo                            La Scarabattola
    Santi 70-1                                         45-6
                              41                                                46-7
Da Emilia 137                                      Palazzo Venezia
                          Pizzeria Starita 71                               Limonè 47
Da Ettore 84, 87                                       Napoli 45
                          President 93                                      Livio De Simone 89
Da Luisa 67                                        Shanti Art Musik
                          Raffaele Buonacore                                MAC Ceramics 47
Da Salvatore 129                                       Bar 45
                              116                                           Mattana Design 89
Di Matteo 33                                       Spazio Nea 44
                          Ristorantino                                      Mercatino di
Dialetti 85                   dell’Avvocato 86-7   Superfly 45                  Antignano 73
Donna Romita 41           Salumeria 41             Syrenuse Bar 140         Mercato di Porta
Donna Rosa 127            Scaturchio 57            Taverna Anema e              Nolana 49
È Divino 115-16                                        Core 117             Omega 71
                          Serafino 43
Friggitoria Vomero 75                              Ventimetriquadri 73      Piazzetta Orefici 49
                          Sfogliatella Mary
Gay-Odin 43                   61                                            Riot Laundry Bar 73
Gelateria David 137       Soul & Fish 138          3Entertainment
                                                                            Scriptura 47
Il Geranio 115            Tandem 41                Associazione Scarlatti   Stinga 141
Inn Bufalito 139          Trattoria Castel            88                    Talarico 63
La Cambusa 126                dell’Ovo 86          Bourbon Street 63        Terrerosse 141
160                                      ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

              Our Writers
                                               Cristian Bonetto
                                               Cristian has contributed to more than 30 Lonely Plan-
                                               et guides to date, including New York City, Italy, Venice
                                               & the Veneto, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Denmark,
                                               Copenhagen, Sweden and Singapore. Lonely Planet
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                                               world, including The Telegraph (UK) and Corriere del
                                               Mezzogiorno (Italy). When not on the road, you’ll find
                                               the reformed playwright and TV scriptwriter slurping
                                               espresso in his beloved hometown, Melbourne.

                                               Brendan Sainsbury
                                               Born and raised in the UK in a town that never merits
Our Writers

                                               a mention in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire),
                                               Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning
                                               in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty
                                               until he was 19. Making up for lost time, he’s since
                                               squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious
                                               existence as a writer and professional vagabond. In
                                               the last 11 years, he has written more than 40 books
                                               for Lonely Planet about places ranging from from
                                               Castro’s Cuba to the canyons of Peru.

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