Pahang - Pahang (Chapter)
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© Lonely Planet
272
Pahang
Holding Peninsular Malaysia’s grandest jungles and bordered by 209km of surfable sandy
beaches and near-perfect tropical islands, Malaysia’s largest state is home to some of the
county’s most accessible outdoor action. Just three hours from Kuala Lumpur you can reach
the primordial national park of Taman Negara, with elusive elephants and tigers hidden
in its tracts of virgin jungle. If you’re coming from Singapore, the bottle-green peaks and
blue waters of Pulau Tioman are only 4½ hours away. Those heading down the east coast
from Terengganu shouldn’t miss a stop at the super-laid-back surf-bum/artist’s haven of
Cherating.
In between these tourism starlets you’ll find off-the-beaten-path gems offering similar
experiences without the crowds. Kenong Rimba National Park sees a fraction of the tourists
and is famous for its many waterfalls, while Tasik Chini – a lotus flower–filled lake encircled
by small Orang Asli villages – is surrounded by pristine jungles filled with the same wildlife
and flora that visitors flock to see at Taman Negara. Those looking for Malaysian culture and
architectural treats should go to Kuala Lipis for its charming old gold rush–era Chinatown,
or Pekan, the seat of the Pahang Sultanate, with its majestic royal palaces and mosque that
contrast with the simple kampung (village) houses in the surrounding area.
HIGHLIGHTS
Hopping from one perfect beach village to the next, diving and jungle trekking on Pulau
Tioman (p274)
Getting wet, muddy and covered in leeches, but loving every minute of it in deep, dark and
undeniably adventurous Taman Negara
(p294)
PAHANG
Staying out half the night at a beach bar
Taman Negara
then curing the morning’s hangover by surf-
ing mellow waves in languorous Cherating Kenong Rimba
State Park
(p289)
Being stared at by curious Pekan (p283) Kuala
Lipis Cherating
locals, who find visitors as interesting as
we find their regal architecture and quaint
kampung houses
Pekan
Floating around the lakes with the lotus Tasik Chini
blossoms then trekking the buzzing un-
touched jungles around Tasik Chini (p288)
Pulau
Exploring the pint-sized Chinatown of Kuala Tioman
Lipis (p302) before delving into the wild
jungles of Kenong Rimba State Park (p303)
TELEPHONE CODE: 09 POPULATION: 1.48 MILLION AREA: 35,964 SQ KMὈὈὈ
lonelyplanet.com PA HA N G • • H i s t o r y 273
0 80 km
PAHANG 0 50 miles
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
Marang
3
KELANTAN Tasik Rantau
Kenyir Abang
Gua
Musang Cave
Gunung Kuala
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
Tahan Dungun
(2187m)
Taman Negara TERENGGANU
Brinchang Kerteh
Tanah Rata
g
eli n
Ringlet Kemasik
8
emb
Kuala
Tahan Kijal
Kenong Kemaman
Sungai T
Rimba
State Park Chukai Teluk Kalung
Kuala Cherating Chendor Point
Lipis Gunung
PERAK Kuala Tapis SOUTH
Benta Tembeling
Seberang (1512m) Gua Balok Beach CHINA
Sungai Charas
Jerantut Lembing SEA
Panching
Sultan Ahmad Beserah
Gunung 64 Shah Airport Teluk Chempedak
Fraser's Kuantan
Hill Raub Benom E8
(2107m)
ὈὈ
2 3
8 Maran
Bentong Kuala Pahang
SELANGOR Mentakab 98 S ungai Pahan
E8 g
Genting Kampung Tasik Pekan
Highlands Lanchang Belimbing
Karak Temerloh Chini
Felda Sunga
Chini i Be
Triang ba
r
KUALA 12
ὈὈ
LUMPUR 10 Nenasi
Tasik
Klang Kajang NEGERI Bera
SEMBILAN 63 Pulau
11 Tulai
Su Kuala
Bahau
nga Pulau
i Rompin Rompin Tioman
Seremban Kuala Tanjung
Pilah Endau-Rompin Gemok
National Park
Endau
Sungai Endau
1 Gemas Segamat
3
Selat Melaka Pulau
Tampin Mersing Besar
(Strait of Melaka) Labis
MELAKA JOHOR
PAHANG
History mid-17th century, Pahang was ruled by
Pahang really emerged as a separate political Johor for 200 years.
entity when the Melaka sultanate launched From 1858 until 1863 Pahang suffered a civil
an attack against the Siamese (who had held war brought about by a leadership struggle be-
the region as a dependency since the 14th tween two brothers, Wan Ahmad and Mutahir.
century) in the middle of the 15th century On the death of their father, the sultan, Wan
and installed Mohammad, the eldest son of Ahmad finally won, and in 1887 he became
the Melaka sultan, as ruler. sultan. From then on his role was reduced to
In the 16th century the state became a a largely symbolic position after the British
pawn in the four-way struggle for ascend- forced him to sign a treaty bringing Pahang
ancy between Johor, Aceh (in Indonesia), under the control of a British Resident.
the Dutch and the Portuguese. In a period In 1896 Pahang was one of the four states
of 30 years it was sacked many times, with that became the Federated Malay States. These
its rich, mineral-based economy ruined, its eventually formed the Federation of Malaya
rulers killed or abducted and much of its in February 1948 and finally the Federation
population murdered or enslaved. After of Malaysia, as it is today, in 1963. Kuantan
the decline of the Acehnese empire in the replaced Kuala Lipis as state capital in 1957.274 P U L AU T I O MA N • • O r i e n t a t i o n lonelyplanet.com
Climate flying squirrels, monkeys and fruit bats), but
The temperature in Pahang ranges from 21°C no humans.
to 32°C and average humidity exceeds 82%. Tekek, the island’s main hub, is where
There is rain throughout the year, but the Tioman steps most wholeheartedly into the
wettest months are during the monsoon, from modern world. The island is a duty-free zone
November to February. (cheap beer!) and unsightly duty-free shops
selling mostly alcohol, chocolate and ciga-
National Parks rettes clutter the town’s streets. The airstrip is
Taman Negara (p294), Peninsular Malaysia’s located here as well as 95% of the island’s cars,
greatest national park, overlaps with northern the only bank and a marina that can hold 36
Pahang. Also in Pahang, the smaller 120-sq-km yachts. The rest of the island remains relatively
Kenong Rimba State Park (p303) can be ac- off the technology radar and even finding a
cessed via Kuala Lipis. decent internet connection can be taxing.
And did we mention the diving? Many
Getting There & Away visitors come to Tioman just to dive and it’s
There are airports at Kuantan and Pulau an economical place to get PADI certifica-
Tioman. The railway network in Pahang slices tion. The underwater world around the island
north–south through the centre of the state, remains largely intact, offering some of the
but does not connect with the coast. Route best easily accessible diving and snorkelling
2 links the state capital Kuantan with Kuala in Malaysia.
Lumpur (KL). See the Getting There & Away Bear in mind that everything stocked in
sections in this chapter for details on air, bus shops on Tioman is shipped over from the
and train transport to and from Pahang. mainland and tends to be expensive (except
beer and tobacco), so stock up on essentials,
Getting Around such as mosquito repellent containing DEET
Transport in Pahang is largely by road and (particularly for pesky sandflies), before
boat, as the rail network is limited. See indi- you arrive.
vidual destinations for details on bus and train
transport within Pahang. ORIENTATION
A short stretch of road runs along the western
PULAU TIOMAN side of the island from Berjaya Tioman Beach,
Golf & Spa Resort to the northern end of
%09
Tekek, where it is interrupted by steps before
Tioman Island has a near-Polynesian feel continuing as a path to the end of Air Batang
to it with its heavy-lidded hibiscus flowers, (known as ABC). A 4WD road through the
steep green peaks and turquoise, coral-rich jungle links Tekek with the dozy east coast
waters. At 20km long and 11km wide the is- idyll of Juara.
PAHANG
land is so spacious, and is home to so many Tekek is the island’s largest village and its
secluded beaches, that your ideal holiday administrative centre. The airport is here, as
spot is surely here somewhere. But of course well as well-stocked shops and some pleasant
this is no secret: the island attracts around restaurants.
190,000 visitors annually looking for their
dream beach. Fortunately holidaymakers INFORMATION
are absorbed subtly and the island retains a It is advisable to get money in Mersing be-
pristine feel within its plethora of authentic fore coming to Tioman, although travellers
village smiles. cheques can be cashed at the Berjaya Tioman
The permanent population on Tioman is Beach, Golf & Spa Resort and there’s a money-
small, with just a handful of small kampung changer at the airport – but rates are poor.
dotted around the coast. These villagers have There’s a small post office not far north of the
retained a wonderfully untainted vibe. Even Babura Seaview Resort in Tekek.
after all the years of being descended on There are numerous public phones at
by hundreds of thousands of tourists, they Tekek, Air Batang (ABC) and Salang, but
still extend a warm welcome. The moun- many are in disrepair. Only Telekom cards
tainous jungle of the interior is home to a can be used for calls, on sale at shops around
spectacular array of flora and fauna (think the island.ὄὄὄὄ
lonelyplanet.com P U L AU T I O MA N • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s 275
0 5 km
PULAU TIOMAN 0 3 miles
Pulau Tulai
(Coral Island)
Bukit Kerayung
Kecil (390m)
Bukit Kerayung
Besar (409m)
Kampung Salang
Beach Kampung
Salang
Jetty
ὄὄ
Monkey Bay
Monkey
Beach Kampung
Panuba (537m)
Panuba Bay
Jetty
Kampung
Air Batang Bay Air Batang
ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄ
(ABC)
Kampung
Jetty Dungung
Mosque
Jetty Bukit Parang
Pulau Marina Panjang (488m)
SOUTH
Rengis Airport
Jetty Kampung CHINA
Tekek
To Tanjung Gemok (55km)
Berjaya SEA
Tioman
Beach, Golf Waterfall
Bunut & Spa Resort Barok
Beach Kampung
Juara Jetty
Mentawak
Kampung Gua Teh Angin
Paya (945m)
Waterfall
Melina Beach
Resort
ὄ ὄ
Gunung Kajang
(1038m)
Kampung
Jetty Genting
Japamala Bukit Seperok
Resort & Spa (958m)
Nipah Nenek
Semukut
(690m)
Batu Sirau
(753m) Waterfall Kampung
Asah
Mukut
To Mersing (51km) Jetty
PAHANG
Bank Simpanan Nasional (Tekek; h6am-midnight) There is good snorkelling off the rocky
Has the island’s only ATM, which takes Visa and MasterCard. points on the west coast of the island, par-
Poliklinik Komuniti Tekek (%419 1880) For medical ticularly those just north of ABC, but the
services. best snorkelling is around nearby Pulau
Tioman Information Centre (hclosed 1 Nov-28 Feb) Tulai, better known as Coral Island. Some
Each beach has an information centre kiosk at the foot of wreck diving is available at the sites of the
its jetty, but these are rarely open. Even when open they famous WWII HMS Repulse and HMS Prince
only sell ferry and taxi boat tickets (at poor rates). of Wales. The sea, however, can be very rough
during the high monsoon season (November
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES and December).
Diving & Snorkelling There are so many dive centres on Tioman
Tioman is one of the most popular places for (with more opening all the time), it’s impos-
diving in Malaysia as it offers good visibility sible for us to list every operator. Snorkelling
and a variety of marine life at easily accessible equipment for hire is easy to find (masks and
sites (about 20 around the island). It’s also one snorkels are typically RM10 per day) at many
of the few places in the country where you have places around the island. PADI courses are
a good chance of seeing pods of dolphins. priced competitively (credit cards accepted276 P U L AU T I O MA N • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s lonelyplanet.com
FRAGILE PARADISE
Tioman fascinates biologists because its relative isolation has generated flora and fauna that
markedly deviate from mainland species. Most creatures are elusive, but you have a good chance
of seeing monitor lizards, long-tailed macaques, giant black squirrels and sea eagles, and you
may even spot some of the island’s reclusive mouse deer.
The sea around Tioman is home to dolphins, occasional migrating whale sharks, shoals
of exotic fish, and green and hawksbill turtles. A total of 233 species of fish and 183 species of
coral flourish in the waters around Tioman.
Fortunately Tioman is a marine park, with strict rules protecting marine life. The island has,
however, long been propelled down the road of commercialisation and the accompanying
environmental degradation has been substantial. The huge new marina at Tekek has angered
environmentalists who see it as an unnecessary luxury that threatens coral reefs and other marine
life. It is also argued that the large visitor numbers can only further alter the personality of Tioman
and overstretch its limited resources. However, the most noticeable impact on the island is that
of global warming, which has affected the health of some of the corals.
at most) – expect to pay about RM1000 for second jetty) where a sign says ‘Trek ke Kg.
a four-day PADI open-water course and Juara 7km’. Follow the concrete path, pass-
RM100 for fun dives. It’s easy to shop around. ing the mosque on your left, and then around
Note that some dive schools shut during the a weed-covered cyclone fence, veering to the
monsoon season. Some established centres: right and onto a small footpath. Boulder steps
B&J (%419 5555; www.divetioman.com) Has a diving continue intermittently for most of the way
pool in ABC. to the top. You’ll cross streams, and go deep
DiveAsia (%419 1654; www.diveasia.com.my) Tends to into an awesome jungle full of giant trees with
offers the lowest price open-water courses and fun dives; buttressed root systems that nearly eat up the
in Salang, Tekek and ABC. path, bright coloured butterflies and, less
Eco-Divers (%419 1250; www.eco-divers.net) cheerfully, mosquitos and horse flies.
Sunrise Dive Centre (%419 3102; www.sunrisedive If you lose the trail, follow the power lines
centre.com) In Juara, it has easy access to the less-visited overhead. Near the top of the hill, you pass
east coast sites. a small waterfall that’s tapped for drinking
Tioman Dive Centre (www.tioman-dive-centre.com) At water so you’re not supposed to swim in it.
Tekek, it has a stellar reputation. Shortly after making it over the top of the hill,
the trail merges with the concrete 4WD track
For information and advice for safe and respon- that drops steeply into Juara. About 1km be-
sible diving, see p84. Other activities on Tioman fore Juara a small unmarked path on the right
PAHANG
include rock climbing; travellers can ask for leads to another waterfall where you can take a
more information at Sunrise Dive Centre. dip. Just watch out for the terrapin – it bites!
You’ll see more wildlife here than in most
Cross-Island Walk of Malaysia’s national parks, including black
By walking across the island from Tekek to giant squirrels, long-tailed macaques, brush-
Juara (around 7km), you can really get a feel tailed porcupines and – if you’re incredibly
for the richness of the spectacular interior. lucky and out at dawn or dusk (with a torch
While not too strenuous, parts of the walk of course) – the endangered, nocturnal bin-
are steep, and hiking in tropical heat can be turong (bear cat). Watch out for snakes: 25
taxing. Carry plenty of water. species including the king cobra and retic-
There are two ways to get across the island, ulated pythons have been recorded on the
via the paved 4WD track or on a jungle trail. island. The walk takes from 1½ to three hours.
The paved road begins just southwest of the A car back from Juara will cost around RM90.
airport and, though relatively shady, you won’t If returning or setting out on foot, be wary of
see much besides trees and will have to watch entering the jungle after around 4.30pm, as
out for vehicles. Much better for walking is you can get lost in the dark. During the mon-
the hiking trail that starts about 1km north of soon season, the path can be very slippery, so
the main jetty in Tekek (or 200m south of the wear shoes with a good grip.Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels P U L AU T I O MA N • • S l e e p i n g , E a t i n g & D r i n k i n g 277
Other Walks of accommodation that is very popular with
Much of the west coast is open to walking, but Singaporean weekenders, but they get little
trails can be difficult to follow and are often business during the week. All of the above are
very overgrown during the low season; again, serviced by ferries from Mersing.
take lots of water. Trickier places to get to include Juara, a
The easiest accessible jungle walk of rea- quiet beach community flung out on the east
sonable distance (about 3.5km) is between coast, while even more isolated bliss can be
ABC and Salang. This trail mostly runs inland found at the luxurious Japamala Resort and
from the coast (no sea views) and is not well Spa on the southwest coast. Budget options
marked so it’s easy to get lost, but it does lead are strung out along the remote south and
to some excellent empty beaches. Climb up southwestern beaches.
to Bamboo Hill Chalets at the northern end The island is inundated with arrivals from
of ABC bay for a 10-minute hike over the June to August and during Chinese New Year,
next headland to Panuba Bay. From there it’s when accommodation becomes tight. For the
another 40 minutes through the rainforest rest of the year, it’s a buyer’s market and during
to Monkey Beach, before the trail continues the monsoon season (November to February)
from the far end of the beach across the next the island is almost deserted. You can gen-
headland to the white-sand beach at Monkey erally find accommodation from January to
Bay. You could stop and turn back here, mak- February, although some places (especially the
ing it a good day walk, or continue on for the pricier options) shut up or undergo repairs for
more brutal and long, steep climb over the the entire monsoon season.
headland to Salang. This trail should not be Budget accommodation largely comprises
attempted during the monsoon season when small wooden chalets and longhouse rooms
it’s miserably muddy and the trail becomes (all in poor condition), typically with a bath-
nearly impossible to follow. The whole route room, fan and a mosquito net. Air-con rooms
takes about three to four hours if you don’t with hot showers are more expensive. Most
lose the trail. operations have larger family rooms for those
It’s an easy 30-minute walk south from with children, and many have restaurants.
Tekek to Berjaya Tioman Beach, Golf & Spa
Resort, either by the road or by rock-hopping Berjaya Tioman Beach, Golf &
around the headland at low tide. From there Spa Resort
you can walk through the golf course. Just This huge resort (%419 1000; www.berjayaresorts
before the telecommunications tower there .com; d RM330-710; as) has a vast number of
is a trail to the deserted beach of Bunut. rooms, ranging from chalets and blocks of
From the end of the beach, the occasion- fully furnished suites to entire villas, but re-
ally faint trail continues over the headland tains enough charm to entice repeat visits.
to Paya, from where you can walk south Most rooms are chalet-style with air-con, in-
PAHANG
to Genting – the trail is easy to follow and house movies and classically designed fur-
there are houses along the way where you nishings, but the facilities and activities are
can ask directions. the standout attractions. These include a golf
Heading north from Tekek, you can walk course, tennis courts, a dive centre, a football
all the way to ABC, and boat transport to pitch, children’s playground, donkey rides,
the beaches can be arranged at most of the amusement arcade, a delightful strip of beach
guesthouses in ABC or Salang, if you don’t (but the swimming dries up at low tide), two
want to walk back. swimming pools (one with great water slides),
From Mukut in the south of the island four restaurants and a beach bar. Up to 50%
(reached by boat from Genting), a popular discounts apply during slack months in the
trek leads to the waterfalls near Asah. monsoon season (November to February).
Look for deals in Mersing. This is the only big
SLEEPING, EATING & DRINKING resort of this kind on the island.
Accommodation on Tioman is largely strung
out on the easier-to-reach west coast, with Tekek
most Western tourists flocking to Berjaya Tekek is Tioman’s commercial and transport
Tioman Beach, Golf & Spa Resort, Tekek, hub. While the central part of town, with its
Salang and ABC. Paya and Genting have lots unsightly twin jetties, characterless marina278 P U L AU T I O MA N • • S l e e p i n g , E a t i n g & D r i n k i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
and shabby duty-free shops isn’t scenic, the atmosphere. The beach here is usually best
village is getting gussied up a bit with a large at the southern and northern ends, although
paved waterfront promenade bordered with the sands are constantly shifting so this is
coconut palms. The best part of Tekek, how- changeable. Most of the beachfront is rocky
ever, is the beach that runs wide and golden with little sand.
at the far south of town and is arguably one All the following chalets have attached
of the island’s best. cold-water bathrooms, fans and mosquito
All accommodation options lie close to nets unless otherwise noted. Air-con is often
each other on the excellent southern beach. available in pricier options.
Babura Seaview Resort (%419 1139; d incl breakfast Internet can be found at Double Ace Shop (per
RM60-100, chalets/sea-view d incl breakfast RM152/170; a) hr RM10; h9am-10.30pm) next to Nazri’s II and at
This very Chinese place offers ageing long- a few guesthouses.
house fan rooms and a selection of newer, Johan’s Resort (% 419 1359; dm/chalets/f
freshly painted rooms and chalets with air- RM15/30/130) The two four-bed dorms here up
con and hot-water bathrooms. Though right the hillside are clean and good value, while
on a lovely stretch of beach, no effort has the chalets are exactly the same as all the other
been made to take advantage of the sea view. cheapies on the beach. The advantage here is
The Tioman Reef Divers dive shop (www that some of the chalets face the sea and the
.tiomanreefdivers.com) is located here, as well good beachside restaurant is reliably open
as the recommended Babura Seaview Chinese from about 8am to 10pm. It’s north from the
Restaurant, which has fresh seafood (meals jetty right before Nazri’s II.
RM25) and chilled beer. My Friend’s Place (%419 1150; r RM25) Busy, so-
oSwiss Cottage Resort (%419 1642; long- cial and priced a hair lower than the competi-
house d RM75-110, chalets RM78-140; a) The rooms tion, this is a clean place with all rooms facing
to nab here are the seaview chalets (RM120) the garden. The restaurant is just as popular
directly on the beach, which have breezy bam- and serves good food. It’s south of the jetty
boo and wood interiors alongside colourfully right before Mokhtar’s Place.
painted walls and comfy deck furniture. Other South Pacific (%419 1176; chalets RM30) Just
options are nestled in a shady back garden, north of the jetty, this simple, family-run and
but all exude a beachy colonial style and are clean place offers laundry, shows films in the
clean and great value. The on-site Tioman evening, and has a restaurant and a small li-
Dive Centre (www.tioman-dive-centre.com) brary of secondhand books. The pricier cha-
has an excellent reputation. lets are by the sea and all come with a shower
Chinese Sarang Seafood (%013-706 6484; meals and mosquito net.
RM20; hlunch & dinner) Near Babura Seaview Mawar Beach Chalets (%419 1153; chalets RM30)
Resort, this spot does a particularly tasty Just south of the jetty, the chalets here are
sizzling hotplate bean curd (RM8) and the same as everywhere else, but run in a row
PAHANG
serves beer. facing the beach. The restaurant has tables
Tioman Cabana (hcafe 9am-6pm, bar 8pm-2am) on the sand.
This hotchpotch beach bar at the north of Mokhtar’s Place (d RM30-45, tr RM55; ai)
the southern beach also acts as a cafe and tour There’s a very mellow family vibe going on
operator offering bike rentals, internet and a at this quiet spot. Cheaper bungalows are set
slew of sports activities. Friendly Ray’s Dive back from the beach under pleasant shady
(%019-330 8062) is right next door. trees and all rooms are spacious and clean,
Ari’s Café (h9am-late) A reggae style bar though ageing. Internet is available (when it’s
tucked on the mountain side not far from working) for RM10 per hour.
the trailhead to ABC, this friendly place can oABC Bungalows (%419 1154; d chalets
prepare packed lunches (around RM6) for RM50-150; a) Swing on a hammock overlook-
the trek over to Juara and has a chilled-out ing the sea and a lovely section of beach at the
atmosphere. north end of ABC. With a couple of chalets al-
most on the beach, accommodation is spread
Air Batang (ABC) over pleasant, well-tended grounds. Marked
ABC is Tioman’s main backpacker hang- by a huge durian tree, a decent beachfront
out with a less flashy beach than at Salang, restaurant out the front rounds it off. The
but with a more down-to-earth kampung large, pricier air-con chalets come with hotBook your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels P U L AU T I O MA N • • S l e e p i n g , E a t i n g & D r i n k i n g 279
water, sea views, hot shower, freezer and tea- including an outrageous vegetarian aloo ghobi
and coffee-making facilities. (potato and cauliflower dish) for RM10 and
oNazri’s Place (%419 1329; www.nazris tandoori prawns for RM26, Chinese dishes
place.com; d incl breakfast RM60-180, f incl breakfast RM250; (try the excellent ginger fish for RM8) and au-
ai) At the far southern end of the beach, thentic Western dishes including good break-
which has some of ABC’s best sand, Nazri’s fasts. It’s set on a hillside terrace perfect for
has clean rooms and a wide range of accom- sunsets over a bottle of wine (from RM40).
modation, from budget rooms with air-con Hallo Café (h5pm till late) This small beach-
(cross a small river to the cheapies at the front watering hole has music and a 5pm to
rear) to deluxe rooms and family rooms in 7pm happy hour (three beers RM10). It’s
the brick units. All options are a big step up in north of the jetty in front of Nazri’s II.
comfort from what’s available elsewhere, with
varnished wood floors and walls and tasteful Kampung Panuba
furniture. The restaurant is right on the water Panuba Inn Resort (%419 1424; www.panubainn.com;
and serves an excellent seafood barbecue at d incl breakfast RM50-140, f incl breakfast RM170; ai)
dinner time. Over the headland from ABC, the peaceful
Bamboo Hill Chalets (%419 1339; bamboosu@tm.net Panuba Inn has a pier and restaurant and 30
.my; chalets RM70-120; i) Perched on rocks over- chalets built on a hill overlooking the bay.
looking the sea at the northern end of the Rooms all face the sea, ranging from simple
beach, six well-kept chalets are in a stupen- fan affairs to chalets with hot shower, air-con
dous location surrounded by bougainvillea and plenty of mod-cons. Bali Hai Divers oper-
and humming cicadas alongside a waterfall ates from here.
and pool. They are almost always full, so call
ahead. There’s no air-con, but the location Salang
benefits from cooling sea breezes. Visa and The small bay at Salang is jam-packed with
MasterCard are accepted and this place shuts accommodation, restaurants, tourists of every
from November to February. creed and touts trying to sell taxi-boat tickets
Nazri’s II (%419 1375; d with fan/air-con RM80/140; and tours. There’s more of a party vibe here
a) Towards the north end of ABC, this place than elsewhere on the island, as well as plenty
is set in a particularly well-tended garden that of internet cafes, minimarts and anything else
spreads up the hillside. The cheaper chalets a traveller might need. A very wide and invit-
are essentially the same as elsewhere (just ing white-sand beach is just south of the jetty
with a higher price tag), but the higher-end and is good for swimming, although there’s
options with air-con, hot water and spacious a lot of boat traffic. For many, Salang’s star
verandahs overlooking the sea are worth a attraction is the monstrous monitor lizards
look if you want more comfort. Its Hijau res- that lurk in the inky river than runs through
taurant (below) is our favourite restaurant the village centre.
PAHANG
on Tioman. Salang Indah Resort (%419 5015; www.salangindah
Tioman House (%019-704 5096; chalets RM150; a) .com; d RM30, longhouse tw RM60, hillside/sea-view chalets
Between Johan’s and Nazri’s II, the setting of RM80/90, q RM120; ai) An expanse of chalets
this place (in a sparse garden right off the main seemingly sprawls forever here, north of the
path) is nothing special, but the chalets are the jetty. Most rooms aren’t in tip-top condition,
most comfortable in ABC. Walls are painted a but if you look at several you’ll probably find
happy yellow, and the huge units have air-con, one to your liking. The most interesting are
hot-water bathrooms, tea-making facilities the Popeye-like chalets on stilts over the sea
and a classic modern hotel decor. (RM120), although the bathrooms in some
Sunset Corner (pizzas from RM18; h2pm-late) Right of these are in such bad shape, they’re almost
near Nazri’s on the plush southern part of the unusable. The mosque-like restaurant acts
beach, this is the ideal place to split a pizza as a hub of sorts and serves everything from
and sip a cold beer while watching the sunset. cheeseburgers to cheap local-style seafood
Fresh fruit juices are also available for RM5. (dishes around RM8). There’s also a bar, shop
Happy hour is from 5pm to 7pm. and internet access (RM10 per hour).
oHijau Restaurant (meals RM10; hbreak- Ella’s Place (%419 5004; chalets RM40-100; a)
fast & dinner) This place rocks the tastebuds, There’s usually a lounge-able patch of sand
serving everything from Indian specialities at this cute-as-a-button family-run place at280 P U L AU T I O MA N • • S l e e p i n g , E a t i n g & D r i n k i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
the quiet northern end of the beach. There ABC costs RM150. Another option is to walk
are 10 clean chalets (some with air-con) and from Tekek (see p276).
a small cafe. Turtles nest on both beaches and the area
Pak Long Island Chalet (%419 5000; enquiry@pak has been proclaimed a ‘green zone’ by the
longislandchalet.com.my; chalets with fan/air-con RM50/60; Sultan of Johor. This means it is protected
ai) Pak Long has wooden chalets with from development, including the building of
peeling plastic flooring and OK verandahs, any big new resorts. All the places to stay in
the more expensive of which face the sea. Juara hover right over magnificent beach and
What sets this place apart is the family- a few places hire out kayaks (RM15 per hour),
run atmosphere that makes it feel like its surfboards (RM20 per hour) and fishing rods
own mini-village. (RM15 per hour).
Salang Sayang (%419 5020; www.salangsayangresort oBeach Hut (%012-696 1093; camp sites with
.com; chalets RM70, sea-view chalets RM80-250, q RM220; a) tent for 2 RM15, dm/chalets RM20/40) This is a bona
Also called Zaid’s Place, this place spreads fide surf shack (on the southern bay) run
along the luscious knuckle of beach south of by a surf pioneer Australian/Malay couple.
the jetty before trickling up the hill (meaning Chalets have heaps of character via shell
a handful of the chalets have excellent bay mobiles, strategically placed driftwood and
views). The setting is the best on Salang, but even some Bollywood fabrics and fake flow-
unfortunately there were no staff around to ers. Budget warriors can get a tent (which
show us the interior of the bungalows when comes with sleeping bags) next to the beach –
we passed (and we passed several times). the site is sublime. After your surf lesson
Khalid’s Place (%419 5317; salangpusaka@yahoo.com; (RM60 per hour) chill out in the social,
d chalets with fan RM80, with air-con RM90-110; a) South lounge-able Tube Café for sandwiches, a meal
of the jetty, behind the Salang Complex and or a cold beer. Dorms were in the works when
across a festering section of Sungai Salang, we passed, but weren’t yet completed.
this place has 47 cleanish chalets set in a large Paradise Point (%419 3145; r incl breakfast RM35)
grassy area. Accommodation is set back from North of the jetty and with a homey vibe, this
the beach; air-con chalets come with fridge place offers simple, unnoteworthy rooms in
and hot shower. a longhouse and has a small restaurant on
A few bars and cafes inject vitality into the beach.
the community: Four S Cafe (Tiger/Guinness RM5/6; Mizani’s Place (%419 3157; chalets RM40) On the
h6pm-1am) is north of the jetty, as is Ng Café, southern section of beach, Mizani’s is directly
an odd shack that sells nothing but take-away next door to Beach Hut and has simple, old
cans of Tsing Tao beer (four for RM10). but clean bungalows with fan, mosquito nets
and attached bathrooms.
Juara Mutiara Resort (%419 3159; chalets RM40-100; a)
A world of its own, Juara is the sole place to This is Juara’s largest establishment, just south
PAHANG
stay on the east coast of the island and hovers of the jetty, with lots of options that all have
in a constant sleepy state of remote-hideaway relatively high standards. Best are the bunga-
bliss. There are two long stretches of wide lows right on the beach that are equipped with
white sandy beach here (separated by a small air-con, tiled hot-water bathrooms, good beds
hill and boulder outcrop). The northern half and fresh paint. The two brand-new beach-
of the beach (called Barok) is where most ac- side fan-cooled bungalows with hot water (for
commodation is found, while the southern RM50) are the best bargain in Juara. Check
strip (known as Mentawak) is near-deserted out the bats hanging from the coconut trees
and kicks up some of the country’s best surf- along the beach here.
ing waves during the monsoon (see the boxed Bushman (%419 3109; matbushman@hotmail.com;
text, p291). While the Tekek–Juara road has chalets RM50) Nabbing one of Bushman’s three
technically made Juara easily accessible, the new varnished wood chalets with particularly
exorbitant prices for the half-hour 4WD trip inviting wicker furniture on their terraces is
(RM90 to RM120 per vehicle each way, de- like winning the Juara lottery – reserve in
pending on how hard you bargain) has kept advance! The location is right up against the
the beach relatively secluded. The Mersing boulder outcrop and a small river that marks
ferry might stop here if there are four or more the end of the northern beach. The little cafe is
people who want to visit, and a taxi boat to a wondrously languorous place to chill out.Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels P U L AU T I O MA N • • S l e e p i n g , E a t i n g & D r i n k i n g 281
Rainbow Chalets (%419 3140; d RM50, tw RM60-70) Paya Resort (%in Mersing 07-799 1432; www.paya
Super-friendly and fittingly colourful, the beach.com; dm incl breakfast RM40, chalets incl breakfast
seven beachfront chalets (all with shower) RM200-480; as) is the best place to stay at
have an excellent reputation and thus are Paya, with most of the spacious modern cha-
always full. It’s right before Bushman at lets linked together by wooden bridges over a
the southern end of the northern bay. Its lily pond. There are also tidy, air-con four-bed
Sunrise Café serves some of the best grub dorm rooms (with attached shower), and a
on the beach. restaurant, full spa, dive centre, lounge and a
Juara Beach (%013-771 1137; www.island.com.my; range of activities.
s/d/tr RM70/80/120; a) All the rooms here have
air-con, wood floors and hot-water bathrooms Melina
and face a grassy garden studded with coconut oMelina Beach Resort (%419 7080; www
palms. It doesn’t have much character, but .tioman-melinabeach.com; chalets for 4/5/6/8 people incl
service is friendly and there’s a good restau- breakfast RM140/240/400/650; a) is the only place
rant on stilts over the beach. to stay at this remote beach of photogenic
Juara Lagoon (%419 3153; www.tatturtlesanctuary boulders and white sand. Each sleeping op-
.com; chalets & longhouse q RM100) At the very far end tion is unique and creatively designed from
of the southern bay, the Juara enjoys sensa- wood, thatch and plexiglass to create a certain
tional views of the entire sweep of the bay. The Crusoe chic – the most interesting is a tree
establishment runs its own turtle sanctuary house that hovers right over the beach. The
and you can hang out with Jo, a three-year- owners have set up a successful turtle hatchery
old deaf and blind green turtle that the centre and the laid-back atmosphere attracts lots of
cares for. The fan-cooled chalets seem a little families. Meals are served at the resort or you
pricey for their simplicity, but the location can walk for 20 minutes to Genting and try
and friendly welcome make up for this. the restaurants there. Plenty of activities are
oRiverview (%419 3168; d RM150) Run by organised to keep folks entertained.
the same crew as Juara Lagoon, Riverview
nabs another prime location at the north Genting
end of the northern bay. Relatively chic Genting is the most built-up beach and
and vaguely Tudor-style A-frame huts have caters mostly to the weekend Singapore and
balconies directly over a lazy jungle river KL crowd, but its surrounding local village
that winds its way to the sea. The large flat gives it more authenticity than the others.
area of beach on the restaurant side has an During the week there are rarely more than a
inviting volleyball pitch and the rest of the handful of tourists, but you might come across
grounds are covered in soft Japanese grass local people practising music for an upcom-
(go barefoot!). ing ceremony, or you can chat with fisher-
Santai Bistro (meals around RM10; h9am-11pm) men about their catch. The long, white beach
PAHANG
Smack next to the jetty, this bar/restaurant would be lovely were it not for the unsightly
plays classic rock and serves up everything cement breakwater decaying in the sand.
from sambal prawns (RM18) to mixed veg- Sun Beach Resort (%419 7069; www.sunbeachresort
etable salads (RM6). The beers are cold and .com.my; tw RM50-90, tr RM70-100, f RM90-110; a) The
the views are hypnotising. biggest place in Genting, it has plenty of
Just north of the jetty there’s a modern beachfront chalets.
looking building that houses a handful of Golden Dish Café (dishes from RM6; h 10am-
local-style restaurants that serve some of the midnight) This might be the only place on
best value food on this beach, with every- Tioman serving their own home-grown
thing from Western breakfasts to roti canai organic vegetables. There are also plenty of
and seafood dinner barbecues. authentic Chinese seafood specialities and
healing herbal drinks.
Kampung Paya
Swarming with happy Singaporeans, the Japamala Resort & Spa
short, wide, white-sand beach here is jam- oJapamala Resort & Spa (%419 6001; www
packed with two resorts and a few restaurants .japamalaresorts.com; tree-top chalets incl breakfast RM390-
and food shacks. The rocky and shallow water 680, sea-cliff chalets incl breakfast RM480-890; as) is
makes this a poor choice for swimming. the only Relais & Chateau hotel in Malaysia282 P U L AU T I O MA N • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
(only 475 ‘outstanding properties with a truly regular ferries to the island and departure
unique character’ around the world have this times vary with the tide – usually the first
exclusive membership) and it’s as decadent ferry leaves in the morning and the last mid-
as that entails. The powdery beach is in small afternoon. Ferries (one way RM35, two to
patches between rocky outcrops and every- three hours) leave from the main jetty and
thing from the over-the-water bar to the spa stop at Genting, Paya, Berjaya Tioman, Tekek,
are draped in fabric, and look like they’ve ABC and Salang, in that order, picking up
come straight off the pages of the Vogue travel from those jetties in the reverse order on the
section. This is a whole lot of luxurious bang return trip. Decide where you want to get off
for your buck. and tell the ticket inspector. Purchase tickets
from one of the many tour operators around
Nipah Mersing or at the jetty just before departure.
A great choice for backpackers wanting to bliss For the return trip from Tioman, ask at the
out in isolation, Nipah Beach is a long strip of place you’re staying for the next day’s sail-
white with an unusual stripe of black sand run- ing times. There is a car park at the jetty in
ning through it. A river mouth at the southern Mersing where you can leave your vehicle
end creates an outrageous deep blue swimming (RM7.50 per day). On weekends and holidays
hole that’s bordered on one side with a large, flat it’s a good idea to buy your tickets in advance
knuckle of sand with a volleyball pitch. There since the boats fill quickly.
are plenty of walking opportunities from here to Boat departures during the monsoon season
small, empty beaches and a jungle waterfall. (November to February) can be erratic (and
You can stay at either The Nipah Beach Tioman dangerous), although sailings become more
(%019-735 7853; chalets from RM70), which is run by regular during the low monsoon months
young and friendly Abbas and offers some (January and February).
rustic chalets on the beach, or at Bersatu Nipah You can also charter a speedboat from the
Chalets (%07-797 0091; bersatunipah_tioman@yahoo jetty at Mersing with Seafarest (07-799 8990; round
.com; r with fan/air-con RM60/90; a), which has clean trip RM1200).
beachfront longhouse rooms, great service Ferries also depart for Tioman from the
and an excellent riverside restaurant. Tanjung Gemok ferry terminal (%413 1997; one way
Both places can arrange pick up from the RM35), 35km north of Mersing near Endau (op-
ferry stop in Genting for RM20 each way. posite). Departure times are 9am, noon and
4pm, returning from Tioman at 10am, noon
Mukut and 4pm. This route is useful if coming from
On the southern tip of Tioman, Mukut is the north and is faster, taking only 1½ hours to
another secluded and tranquil spot with a the Berjaya Tioman Beach, Golf & Spa Resort,
lovely beach. but call ahead and make sure the ferries are
Mukut Coral Resort (%07-799 2535/2612; r/chalets running before you arrive. Ferry services dry
PAHANG
RM25/88; a) Traditional village-style chalets up between November and April.
(all with air-con and hot water, some with
TV) are set in a marvellous location. The re- GETTING AROUND
sort has a sea-view restaurant serving Chinese In 2009 there was no longer a sea bus, so the
and Western food. only way to beach hop is by sea taxi. Typical
sea taxi fares from Telek are: Salang (RM30),
GETTING THERE & AWAY ABC/Panuba (RM25), Paya Beach (RM30),
Air Genting (RM30), Nipah (RM75) and Juara
Berjaya Air (%419 1303, in KL 03-7846 8228, in Singapore (RM105). Most chalets can arrange boat
%02-6481 6302), with offices at Berjaya Tioman charter, but it is expensive (RM300 to RM400
Beach, Golf & Spa Resort and at the airstrip, per day).
has one daily flight to/from KL (RM228) and If you have the time, you can explore some
Singapore (RM296) from the airport (%419 of the island on foot. Bicycles can be hired at
1309) at Tekek. guesthouses on all the main beaches (RM5
per hour).
Boat A lift in a 4WD from Tekek to Juara or from
Mersing in Johor is the main access port Juara to Tekek costs around RM90 to RM120
for Tioman. Bluewater (%799 2535) runs the (bargain hard) for up to four people.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • E n d a u 283
THE COAST in Galeri Pengangkutan Air (h9.30am-5pm Tue-Thu,
Sat & Sun, 9am-12.15pm & 2.45-5pm Fri). Look out for
ENDAU the fabulously carved craft with the head of
%09 a mythical beast. Both museums were under
There’s little of interest in Endau, but fast renovation in 2009.
boats speed to Pulau Tioman from nearby To the west of the Museum Sultan Abu
Tanjung Gemok, which functions as an alterna- Bakar along the river is the blue-domed Sultan
tive to Mersing in Johor for reaching Pulau Abdullah Mosque (Jln Sultan Ahmad), a large, slightly
Tioman (see opposite). mouldering creation with blue domes dat-
Hotel Seri Malaysia (%413 2723; smrom@serimalay ing back to 1932. Behind the mosque stands
sia.com.my; d incl breakfast RM120; as), just across the old Pekan Lama, fashioned from wood
Sungai Endau in Tanjung Gemok, has clean and stone. The active Abu Bakar Mosque (Jln
air-con rooms with shower. Also near the jetty Sultan Ahmad) is further west, crowned with
in Tanjung Gemok are numerous other small, gold domes.
cheap hotels and restaurants, and a couple of Walk to the end of the road (Jln Sultan
internet cafes – but honestly, it’s a much better Ahmad), turn the corner and head along the
option to take the ferry to/from more interest- road away from the river, through the memorial
ing Mersing if you need to spend the night. archway fashioned like huge tusks, passing the
Chief’s Rest House (see p284) on your left. Keep
PEKAN walking past the blue-painted Istana Mangga
%09 Tunggal with its red-tile roof on your right, be-
The seat of the Pahang Sultanate, Pekan fore continuing to the rural setting of Kampung
has a regal air and is uncommonly scenic Permatang Pauh and Kampung Padang Buloh, where
with its wide clean streets, spacious padang splendid single kampung houses line the roads,
(city square) and many grand buildings and cows ruminate by the wayside.
surrounded by expansive pristine lawns. The focus of the litter-free, palm-lined
There is also a collection of old Chinese roads of the royal quarter of Pekan is the
shophouses along a shady river (which is Regent of Pahang’s palace, Istana Permai, and
unfortunately filled with rubbish), friendly further on, the sultan’s palace, the Istana Abu
giggling locals unused to seeing tourists, and Bakar, set in vast grounds of cow grass and
some great accommodation at the Chief’s adjacent to the verdant polo field of the Royal
Rest House. Around the town centre are Pahang Polo Club. It’s worth completing a lazy
acres of traditional kampung houses sur- circuit of the road around the field (Prince
rounded by livestock and veggie gardens. Charles reputedly played here) as it’s a very
well-tended area; sitting on a section of track
Information within the grounds of the polo field is an old
There’s internet access at 10 Net Cyber Café steam engine.
PAHANG
(Jln Sultan Abu Bakar; per hr RM3; h10am-7pm). CIMB
Islamic Bank (Jln Rompin Lama) has an ATM that
accepts foreign cards. TIOMAN SCAMS
For literally years now, the less savoury of
Sights Mersing’s entrepreneurs have been coming
The stately Museum Sultan Abu Bakar (Jln Sultan up with a variety of techniques for getting
Ahmad; admission RM1; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, Tioman-bound tourists into their offices.
9am-12.15pm & 2.45-5pm Fri) is housed in a won- Here they try to sell you ferry tickets (at
derful building constructed by the British the going price, no loss to the traveller
in 1929 for the local Resident. Exhibits are there) and get you to reserve a Tioman
largely about the Pahang royal family, such hotel – sometimes at double the real price.
as the sultan’s car and his polo achieve- Outside of holidays and high season, and
ments, but there are also weapons, pottery particularly for budget chalets, it’s best to
(including Chinese porcelain and Arab ce- shop around for a place to stay once you
ramics unearthed on Pulau Tioman) and reach your beach. If you want to reserve
exhibits on wildlife in Pahang. accommodation in Tioman in advance, call
On the river island facing the museum is or email the place yourself!
a display of traditional Malaysian watercraft284 T H E C OA S T • • Pe k a n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
0 400 m
PEKAN 0 0.2 miles
ὈὈ
A B Pulau Engin C D
4
Sungai Pahang To Singapore
Taxis
1
18
Jln Sultan Ahmad Old Shophouses
15
Jln Sultan Mahmud
Jln Rompin Lama
Jln Bangunant Pusat
ὈὈ
9 Telecom-
munications
Jln Sultan Ahmad
Sungai
3 12 Mast
Jln Tok Tuan 14
Children's
Parit
District 2
10 Office Playground 17 1
To Bridge; Abu Baka r
Kuantan Jln Sulta n
16 Hospital
Jln Mahkota
19
Jln Mahkota
20 Padang
13
2 Jln Hi Montok
Jln Sri Terentan
Sungai
Panchor
g
Lg Hj Abdullah 6
7
3
5
School 8
Kampung Arabic
Kampung Permatang 11 School
Padang Buloh Pauh
North of the polo field (back towards the Chief’s Rest House (%422 6941; Jln Istana Permai;
river) are attractively coloured, traditional d RM55-70; a) Exuding atmosphere and style,
kampung houses on stilts. North of the this wooden building (dating from 1929), with
main shopping district and the padang, the a wide verandah, is reason enough to stop in
Istana Leban Tunggal, within Kampung Leban Pekan. All the rooms have wood floors, tower-
Tunggul, is a fine old red-tiled, two-storey ing ceilings, TV and air-con. It’s nearly 1km
building, in need of a lick of paint, with two from the bus terminal, so let the driver know
buff-coloured domes. that you want to get off near the rest house.
PAHANG
Returning to the river, wander past the Alternatively, walk (shadeless and hot) or take
old shophouses, a row of old family shops, a taxi (RM6) from the main bus station.
Chinese guildhalls, barbers and restaurants. Umi Café (22 Jln Bangunant Pusat; meals RM5-10;
Sungai Pahang, which can be crossed at this h7.30am-9pm) Right across from the shady pa-
town via a lengthy bridge, is the longest river dang this is the most airy and pleasant place to
in Malaysia and was the last east-coast river eat in town. There’s a Chinese-Malay buffet at
to be bridged. lunch and delicious curry pao (RM1; steamed
bun filled with meat) all day.
Sleeping & Eating
Staying a night in Pekan is a great way to shift Getting There & Away
into the low gear of small-town Malaysia. A Regular local buses run to/from Kuantan
few restaurants, food vendors and fruit stalls (RM5.30, one hour), Kuala Rompin (RM6.50,
can be found in the grid of streets in-between two hours) and to Chini Village (RM5, 1½
the Padang and Sungai Pahang and along the hours). Long-distance buses run to Kuala
riverfront Jln Sultan Ahmad. Also, a handful Terengganu (RM22.10) and to KL (RM25).
of ikan bakar and tom yam (spicy Thai-style) The taxi station is at the bus station. A taxi
seafood restaurants open for dinner along Jln to/from Kuantan costs RM40; to Tasik Chini
Sultan Abu Bakar. it’s RM60.Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T H E C OA S T • • K u a n t a n 285
INFORMATION coast’s most impressive mosque, which pre-
10 Net Cyber Cafe.................................................1 C2 sides regally over the padang. At night it’s a
CIMB Islamic Bank................................................. 2 D2
magical sight with its spires and lit turrets.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ninety-minute river cruises (adult/child RM15/8;
Abu Bakar Mosque.................................................3 A1 h9am, 11am, 2pm & 4pm) run from the jetty to
Galeri Pengangkutan Air.........................................4 B1 the Sungai Kuantan river mouth, then upriver
Istana Abu Bakar.....................................................5 B3
Istana Leban Tunggal.............................................6 C2 again through mangroves at the edge of town.
Istana Mangga Tunggal..........................................7 A3 You can also take a 90-minute guided heritage
Istana Permai..........................................................8 A3 walk (%012-267 0098; ravee_tg@yahoo.com.au; per person
Museum Sultan Abu Bakar......................................9 B1
Pekan Lama..........................................................10 A2
RM40) that explores Kuantan’s small collection
Royal Pahang Polo Club........................................11 B3 of colonial architecture, as well as sites of local
Sultan Abdullah Mosque.......................................12 A1 interest, with tour guide Ravendran.
If you happen to be in town on a Saturday
SLEEPING
Chief's Rest House............................................... 13 A2
afternoon and want to do something com-
pletely out of the ordinary, go check out the
EATING horse races (Indrah Makota Indo Stadium) where you
Food Vendors.......................................................14 C2 can sit in the air-con and watch locals go into
Fruit Stalls.............................................................15 D1
Ikan Bakar & Tom Yam Restaurants......................16 A2 a betting frenzy.
Umi Café..............................................................17 C2
Sleeping
TRANSPORT
Bus Station............................................................18 D1
Budget choices in Kuantan (except one) are
Bus Stop for Buses Coming from Kuantan.............19 A2 grim, so do yourself a favour and splurge on
Bus Stop for Buses Going to Kuantan....................20 A2 something midrange or better.
Sungai Wang Utama Hotel (%514 8273; 16 Jln
KUANTAN Penjara; r RM15-35; a) The vibe is a little sleazy
%09 but it’s cleanish and cheap.
The second-biggest port in Malaysia and the Hotel Makmur (%514 1363; 1st & 2nd fl, B 14 & 16
capital of Pahang, most travellers only stop in Lg Pasar Baru 1; r RM30-70; a) Totally boring and
busy Kuantan to break up long bus trips. Until functional but clean, this is the only cheapy
recently there wasn’t much to do besides get out in town we feel absolutely OK about recom-
of town and out to the nearby beach of Teluk mending. Reception is friendly and it’s very
Chempedak, but a few new activities, including near to the long-distance bus station.
a river cruise and walking tour, make stopping Classic Hotel (%516 4599; chotel@tm.net.my; 7 Jln
in this city for the day a bit more interesting. Besar; d incl breakfast RM90; a) An excellent choice,
all rooms here (ask for a river view) are spa-
Information cious and clean, with large bathrooms, free
Lots of banks (many with 24-hour ATMs) are filtered water, tea-making facilities, TVs
PAHANG
on or near the aptly named Jln Bank. You’ll and air-con. Add the central location, ample
find wi-fi in most hotels, plus internet cafes at Malay-style breakfast and considerate staff
the Berjaya Megamall and East Coast Mall. and there’s no point staying anywhere else.
Hamid Bros Books (%516 2119; 23-25 Jln Mahkota; Seasons Boutique Hotel (%516 3131; seasons
h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) A licensed mon- boutiquehotel@gmail.com; 2-8 Jln Beserah; r from RM98;
eychanger; also sells some English-language books. a) Bright coloured walls and Zen-style
Mega Tech (2nd fl, Lg Pasar Baru 3; per hr RM2; furniture makes this the most chic choice
h9am-midnight) Next to the long-distance bus station. in town, but rooms are small and many are
Post office (Jln Haji Abdul Aziz) On the continuation of window-less. There’s a spa offering reflexol-
Jln Mahkota, near the soaring Masjid Negeri. ogy and a big restaurant serving Malay and
Tourist information centre (%516 1007; Jln Mahkota; Western food.
h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Thu, 8am-12.45pm & 2.45-5pm Mega View Hotel (%517 1888; Lot 567, Jln Besar;
Fri) Has particularly helpful staff and a range of useful leaflets. r RM150-350; as) This high-rise has a bit
more atmosphere than the other hotels in
Sights & Activities town thanks to its direct riverfront posi-
Kuantan’s major attraction is the beach, Teluk tion and lots of natural light in the lobby
Chempedak (see p287), outside town. The areas, the Alfresco Bar (see p287) and in the
Masjid Negeri (State Mosque; Jln Mahkota) is the east rooms. Opt for a standard executive to get286 T H E C OA S T • • K u a n t a n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
0 400 m
KUANTAN 0 0.2 miles
A B C D
INFORMATION SLEEPING East Coast Mall.................................15 A2
Hamid Bros Books...............................1 B4 Classic Hotel.......................................7 B4 Food Court.....................................(see 20)
Mega Tech.........................................2 A3 Hotel Makmur....................................8 A3 Outdoor Food Stalls.........................16 B4
1 Post Office.........................................3 B3 Mega View Hotel...............................9 B4 Tjantek Art Bistro.............................17 B4
Tourist Information Centre.................4 A4 MS Garden Hotel.............................10 C2
Seasons Boutique Hotel....................11 C3 DRINKING
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Sungai Wang Utama Hotel..............12 A4 Alfresco Bar......................................(see 9)
Masjid Negeri.....................................5 B3
River Cruises.......................................6 B4 EATING TRANSPORT
Akob Patin House............................13 B4 Local Bus Station..............................18 B4
Berjaya Megamall.............................14 B2 Local Taxi Stand...............................19 B4
Long-Distance Bus Station................20 A3
Long-Distance Taxis.......................(see 20)
To Cherating (45km); Malaysia Airlines..............................21 A3
Kuala Terengganu
(205km)
2
ek
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Lim
sm
(26km) nI
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14
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Jln
Jln
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Jln Bes
Jln
Ta
Football 20
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Jln B
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21 Jln
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Kuantan 4
ua
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6
ai
Pe Jln
Parade
4 16
ris
Jln K
P ai SOUTH
To Indrah Makota enj 19 ng
Indo Stadium (4km); ra
a 18
Su CHINA
Sultan Ahmad
Shah Airport (15km);
Hawk (15km); SEA
Mayflower (15km);
Pekan (35km)
PAHANG
a balcony and uninterrupted river view. All Berjaya Megamall or the East Coast Mall to
the suites were renovated in 2009 and have find everything from Délifrance and Starbucks
modern wood furniture as well as two bal- to Malay-style food courts. Small food stalls
conies. The RM165 family rooms are a great can be found dotted along the riverbank,
deal if you’re travelling with kids. in the central market, on Jln Bukit Ubi and
MS Garden Hotel (%555 5899; www.msgarden.com inside the long-distance bus station.
.my; Lot 5 & 10, Lg Gambut, off Jln Beserah; r incl breakfast oAkob Patin House (%013-931 2709; Jln
from RM390; ais) Kuantan’s poshest hotel Besar; hlunch) Fancy trying patin, the local
was getting a total remodel throughout 2009. delicacy? This riverfront place serves both
Rooms are big, there’s a fitness centre, kid- wild caught (RM20) and farmed (RM8)
oriented pool with waterslides, and excellent patin in a tempoyak (fermented durian
service. It’s conveniently located next to the sambal) sauce served buffet style with other
Berjaya Megamall. Malay style meat and vegetable dishes – the
price is per fish. The friendly staff can help
Eating & Drinking explain what’s what.
Kuantan’s most distinctive dish is patin (silver Tjantek Art Bistro (%967 2021; 46 Jln Besar; meals
catfish). For more common fare head to the RM30; h4pm-1am Mon-Sat) Modern art hangsYou can also read
