POSTCARDS - PRESENTED BY // - MOROCCO SANTIAGO HOUSTON PACIFICNORTHWEST ANNARBOR
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POSTCARDS
postcards
MOROCCO • SANTIAGO • HOUSTON • PACIFIC NORTHWEST • ANN ARBOR
SUMMER 2021
PRESENTED BY //
// WELCOME DEAR TRAVEL LOVER, A year ago, we were spending the summer mostly at home, with seemingly endless days filled by baking bread, binge-watching TV shows, reading books and only dreaming of future travel. Thanks to the wonders of science, those days of merely dreaming are over. With many people vaccinated and more countries opening up to visitors, things are starting to feel closer to ‘normal.’ So, dust off your suitcases, update your passports and flip through this issue of Postcards for travel inspiration. Follow our writers around the world in these informative pages. Enter the entrepreneurial dining scene of Houston, Texas, where a creative culinary culture reflects the city’s ethnic diversity. Hike up the green mountains of Morocco and spot the dazzling Mediterranean Sea in the distance. Dive into North American history on an American Queen Steamboat Company cruise through the Pacific Northwest. And check out the culinary standouts and cultural attractions that are keeping Santiago, Chile, firmly on the map. Wherever you choose to make memories in the years ahead, our agency is here to help you. We’ll answer any concerns about travel restrictions and safety precautions as you navigate your return to travel. It’s our job to make your trip as smooth sailing as possible so you can focus on seeing the world again, unencumbered by logistics. We’ll work together to make your dreams a reality. Happy travels!
Contents travel
leaders
group
// FEATURES
Morocco Pacific reservations Santiago
Stephen McGillivray
22 Snowy peaks, 42 Northwest 58 The finest hotels 66 Discover Latin
Chief Marketing Officer
Jennifer Coulter
VP, Content and Creative
guiding goats and A trip on the for a romantic America’s most
Erica Moody
a warm welcome Columbia River city escape exciting capital Managing Editor
Jonathan Hermann
Director, Content
Houston
Find a vast diversity
of food experiences
34 editorial
& design
Maria Pieri
Editorial Director
Jo Fletcher-Cross
Editor
Becky Redman
Art Director
Kelly McKenna/Liz Owens
Lead Designers
Daniel Gregory
Production Manager
Matthew Midworth
Special Projects
Postcards is produced quarterly for your
travel agency by Travel Leaders Group in
partnership with APL Media Limited. The
magazine’s entire contents are protected by
copyright 2021 and all rights are reserved.
Reproduction without prior permission is
forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling
the contents of the magazine, but the
publishers assume no responsibility in the
effect arising therefrom. The views expressed
aren’t necessarily those of the publisher or
Travel Leaders Group. All rates are valid at
time of printing and are subject to availability.
All prices are quoted in USD.
GO NOW ON THE TRAIL PACK YOUR BAGS
8 New places inspired
18 Discovering Frida Kahlo’s
76 All the essentials for the
by old favorites Mexico City perfect road trip
IN THE KNOW CULTURE SIGHT TO SEE
12 Cruise ship launches,
20 Underwater museums
78 Fairytale visions at
news and travel trends around the world Slovenia’s Lake Bled
WEEKENDER MEET THE INFLUENCER
14 Three days in Ann
74 Ernest White II on life as
Cover: Young Moroccan man
in traditional outfit,
Arbor, Michigan a travel journalist Marrakech // Superstock
summer 2021 // 3
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GETAWAY
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and Sandals Royal Plantation, discover Jamaica’s most elite and popular golf course, the Sandals Golf & Country
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CATION *Golf carts are mandatory and at a cost at Sandals Emerald Bay. In Ocho Rios, Jamaica, caddies are mandatory, but not included. Promotion is not
applicable to contracted groups. Sandals® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an affiliate of Unique Travel Corp., the worldwide repre-
sentative of Sandals Resorts.
Tickets and Park reservations required for Park entry.
Ancient Sanctum Pym Test Kitchen
Practice the Mystic Arts with Doctor Strange. Savor a massive meal and some tiny treats
W E L C O M E T O AV E N G E R S C A M P U S
Welcome to Avengers Campus: an all-new land now open at Disney Earth’s Mightiest Heroes are ready to train a brave new generation of recruits. It’s
California Adventure® Park dedicated to discovering, recruiting and inspiring the time to team up and unleash the hero within us all. Heroes Assemble at Avengers
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with your family and friends and the Avengers to take on whatever the universe
throws at you.
Book a Walt Disney Travel Company vacation package that can include:
At Avengers Campus, you’ll find an assemblage of attractions, Super Heroes and Accommodations at one of the Hotels of the Disneyland® Resort or a
unique fare and gear. At our newest family attraction, you and your crew can nearby Good Neighbor Hotel.
team up with a friendly neighborhood hero and put your skills to the test! Then
charge over to Guardians of the Galaxy—Mission: BREAKOUT! and help Rocket rescue A 3-Day or longer Disneyland® Resort ticket.
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magical artifacts. Witness the gravity-defying feats of some of the Avengers in merchandise location in Downtown Disney® District (one voucher per package).
a way you’ve never seen before. Power up with official Avengers Campus ge ar,
inventions, and prototypes at shops like the Campus Supply Pod. And when it’s Exclusive! Walt Disney Travel Company collectible pin & lanyard.
time to take a break from all your heroics, savor a meal and even some tiny treats
at the Pym Test Kitchen. Ask your Travel Agent about more heroic extras.
To book your magical vacation, contact our agency today!
Both a Theme Park reservation and valid ticket for the same Park on the same date are required for Park entry. Theme park reservations are limited, and availability is subject to capacity. Certain parks,
attractions, restaurants, experiences and offerings may be modified or unavailable, limited in capacity, and subject to limited availability or even closure. Park admission and offerings are not guaranteed.
Visit www.disneytraveltradeinfo.com/dlr for important information about park attendance requirements and other restrictions that you need to know before visiting the Disneyland® Resort.
Walt Disney Travel Company CST #1022229-10 ©Disney © 2021 MARVEL
DLR-21-1853253
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as the number of rooms allocated for this o‚ er is limited. Excludes applicable fees and taxes. Limit two (2) rooms per reservation and occupancy restrictions
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Disne ®
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important information to know before visiting the Disneylandylandyland® Resort. ©Disney
Walt Disney Travel Company CST# 1022229-10
// PLAN NOW, GO LATER EUROPEAN WALLED CITIES Wander evocative, hidden streets within ancient city walls for a taste of medieval life To go back in time…try Mdina High up on a hilltop looking out over the island of Malta, Mdina was initially fortified by the Phoenicians from around 1000-700 BC. They used the island as a stopping point on their trade routes. Since then, the ancient city has been part of the Roman Empire, under Arab reign, conquered by the Normans and ruled by The Order of The Knights of St John. The latter were responsible for much of the city’s beautiful baroque architecture, built after an earthquake in 1563 destroyed many of Mdina’s buildings. It’s known as the ‘Silent City’ due to noise restrictions and limits on cars in its narrow, dimly lit streets. 8 // postcards
// PLAN NOW, GO LATER
Above: Image caption style Tatemque
image: GE T T Y
nobis poreptatem volor simus et as re
peritas ma qui rerionserume
summer 2021 // 9
For sea and culture…try Dubrovnik One of the world’s most impressive walled cities, Dubrovnik was once the capital of the Republic of Ragusa. Now it’s a deservedly popular Croatian hotspot, drawing in visitors to its beautiful Old Town, full of limestone- paved streets, baroque churches and atmospheric palazzi. The ancient city walls, begun in the 13th century and finished in the 16th, are a key part of the city’s appeal, and any visit to Dubrovnik should include a walk along their full, mile-long length to enjoy magnificent views of the terracotta rooftops and out to the blue sea. 10 // postcards
// PLAN NOW, GO LATER
Above: Image caption style Tatemque
image: GE T T Y
nobis poreptatem volor simus et as re
peritas ma qui rerionserume
summer 2021 // 11// IN THE KNOW THEME PARKS READY TO RIDE New parks, rides and attractions are now opening around the world as visitor numbers begin to pick up Theme park package sales are set to go into overdrive, New openings that will appeal to those traveling with Above: Avengers following a flurry of big summer product launches, younger guests include Remy’s Ratatouille Adventure, Campus at including the July opening of Legoland New York Resort. based on characters from the 2007 Pixar movie Disney California Located in the Hudson Valley town of Goshen, it’s Ratatouille. Located within the France Pavilion at Epcot Adventure Park backed by the 250-guestroom Legoland Hotel. Resort Area (part of Florida’s Walt Disney World Resort), Right from top: This followed multiple June launches, including the it’s set to open on October 1, a date that marks the 50th Holland America Avengers Campus at Disney California Adventure Park, anniversary of the Resort. Line’s Amsterdam, the 70mph Jurassic World Velocicoaster at Universal’s Looking ahead to 2022, fans of the Star Wars movie anchored in The Islands of Adventure, in Orlando, and the Jersey Devil franchise will be able to book stays and packages at Star Bahamas; Hans Coaster at Six Flags Great Adventure, in New Jersey Wars: Galactic Starcruiser. The new themed hotel will Christian Andersen — reportedly ‘the world’s tallest, fastest, and longest be located in the Epcot Resort Area of the Walt Disney Museum, Odense, single rail coaster.’ World Resort, near to Disney’s Hollywood Studios. Denmark 12 // postcards
HOLLAND AMERICA’S
HALF MOON milestone
Holland America Line will
celebrate the 25th anniversary of travel facts
its private Bahamian Island, Half
Moon Cay, during the October
2022-April 2023 season with a
packed program of Caribbean
$17.4bn
is the amount the new
sailings from Fort Lauderdale, Juneteenth federal holiday
all calling at Half Moon Cay. The could generate, with
program features seven ships, 46 million U.S. citizens
including recent Pinnacle-class encouraged to travel
launch, Rotterdam. (Source: U.S.T.A.)
Voyages of Discovery
The newest addition to the
Princess fleet, Discovery Princess,
9 in 10
Americans plan to
will enjoy a summer of sailing travel in the next six
Alaska during her 2022 maiden months, representing a
season, with a seven-day Inside new pandemic-era high.
Passage cruises roundtrip from (Source: Forbes Advisor/
Seattle, including Glacier Bay YouGov study, June 2021)
National Park. The ship offers
the Princess MedallionClass
experience for an easy vacation.
Europe museum news
The Humboldt Forum opened Travel Trend #1
in Berlin, Germany on July 20.
The museum of non-European The Future of Business Travel report,
art currently comprises six commissioned by VistaJet, polled
exhibitions. Ten days later, more than 200 high-level company
the Hans Christian Andersen executives in the U.S., EMEA and
Museum opened in Odense, APAC. More than four-fifths (81%) of
Denmark. It celebrates the life respondents said they saw business
and work of the writer, who was travel as being more crucial to their
born in the city. organizations’ future growth and
success than ever.
NORWEGIAN BOOST
Norwegian Cruise Line’s Travel Trend #2
latest vessel, Norwegian Prima,
posted record first-week sales, Demand for leisure travel continues
helping it to become ‘the most to ramp up, with nearly half (44.6%)
in-demand ship in the brand’s of Americans feeling that now is a
history.’ NCL’s president, Harry good time to spend on it — a figure
Sommer, called the ship a “game that rises to 57.8% for ‘millennials or
images: Ge t t y; AWL IMAGES
changer.” Norwegian Prima, the younger.’ The finding was one of the
first of six planned Prima-class conclusions of a July 2021 study by
vessels, begins its first season research firm Destination Analysts.
of Caribbean and European
sailings in August 2022.
summer 2021 // 13// WEEKENDER
ANN ARBOR
This university city offers cultural opportunities, world-
class restaurants and a mix of local charm and sophisticated
entertainment, finds Nicole Haase
Liberty Street
DAY 1 for more than 100 years, this delightful the paella and experience dinner in Spain
Head to Dimo’s Deli for lunch: its Manhattan spot feels far from the bustle of the city. without leaving the Midwest.
reuben substitutes coleslaw for the traditional The massive peony garden is a big draw, End the day with drinks at The Ravens
sauerkraut, adding a different, crispier bite to but there are acres of nature reserve, Club. Whiskey lovers will adore their bar’s
the familiar classic. gardens and paths to explore. stock of more than 150 bottles and the
Walk off lunch at the Matthaei Botanical A short trip into town for dinner will cocktail list is mouth-watering. The bramble
Gardens and Nichols Arboretum. A joint feel like being transported thousands of on is bright and fruity with a touch of acidity
venture between the city and the university miles thanks to a meal at Aventura. Order that goes down smoothly.
14 // postcardsRight from top: University of Michigan Museum
of Art; aloe plants growing at the University of
Michigan’s Matthaei Botanical Gardens
DAY 2
Start the day out in Kerrytown, a historic
Ann Arbor neighborhood. Named after
County Kerry in Ireland, the district was
part of the original village dating back to the
mid-1800s. Now it’s home to a market full of
shops and artists. It’s almost impossible to
walk away empty-handed.
Get caffeinated at Sweetwaters. The rich,
chicory coffee on offer is reminiscent of
New Orleans and their pretzel breakfast
sandwiches are comforting and delicious.
Ann Arbor is a bibliophile’s dream. There
are at least 10 independent bookstores
dotted around the city. Dawn Treader has
some 70,000 titles, from rare antiques to
recent bestsellers. Set aside an hour or two
to really get lost in the store’s stacks.
Spending time exploring the university
is a must. The University of Michigan
Museum of Art has one of the largest college
collections in the country and a popular
attraction, but the campus also has the
Kelsey Museum of Archaeology and a
Museum of Natural History. The Gerald
R Ford Presidential Library & Museum
offers a detailed look through papers and
photographs from Ford’s time in office.
Architecture lovers, meanwhile, should visit
the English gothic-style Law Library.
Stop for lunch at Miss Kim. Chef Ji Hye
Kim is a James Beard Best Chef nominee
who serves up a menu that combines her
Korean heritage with fresh, local products.
Try the tteokbokki — stir-fried rice cakes
images: Ge t t y; Shut terstock ; al amy
— which are available a number of different
ways. They’re utterly delicious.
End the night at the historic Michigan
Theater. Built in 1927, it still has its original
Barton Theatre Pipe Organ, orchestra pit,
stage and elaborate architectural details.
It’s the perfect place to wind down with a
movie or show after a long day.
summer 2021 // 15// WEEKENDER
DAY 3
Fuel up for the day at MD Fragel Bagel. This
unassuming shop in a strip mall is home
to a delicious creation called a fragel — a
raisin-packed dough deep fried and tossed
in cinnamon and sugar. They also make 30
types of regular bagels daily.
After eating, head a little out of town for
a change of scene. Less than 40 miles west
of Ann Arbor, Jackson is home to a number
of award-winning wineries, breweries and
distilleries. Get out and explore the more
rural parts of the region to uncover some
real hidden gems. Lone Oak is Southeast
Michigan’s oldest and largest commercial
vineyard, while Sandhill Crane has more
// ESSENTIALS than 40 styles of 100% Michigan-grown
wines. Then there’s Chateau Aeronautique
Winery, which combines a love of wine and
When to go: This bustling Midwestern city is most old airplanes and makes more than two
r
ive
R
Kerrytown
Huron enjoyable in late spring and early summer or early fall, dozen beers and hard ciders. Grand River
Zingerman’s Deli
when temperatures are pleasant. Winters are very Brewery, meanwhile, is home to a winery
cold and windy. and distillery in addition to a brewery.
image: Andre w Pot ter; MAP ILLUSTR ATION: JOHN PLUMER
A N N A R B O R Matthaei
Botanical
State Street
Gardens Currency: USD Back in town, dinner and a show at Blue
Language: English LLama Jazz Club is the perfect way to end
Getting around: Ann Arbor is a very walkable town. a trip to Ann Arbor in style. This sultry,
University of Michigan
Museum of Art
MICHIGAN
Ann Arbor Parking downtown can sometimes be difficult, but a swanky spot has a jazz-inspired menu
U NI T ED STATE S
O F AMERI CA
car is necessary for anything outside of the city. that changes seasonally, as well as a chef’s
200 yards Public transportation, taxis and bicycle rentals and ride tasting menu that shouldn’t be missed.
shares are available. Local and national jazz acts provide the
soundtrack to dinner.
CALL US To book your trip to Ann Arbor, contact our travel agency
Left: Blue Llama Jazz Club
16 // postcardsRECONNECT.
REJOICE.
RETURN TO
EUROPE.
Allow us to indulge your every whim aboard the newest, most
innovative and award-winning ships on Europe’s legendary
rivers. We’ll treat you to exquisite locally-sourced cuisine, hikes
to hilltop castles and bike rides through the scenic countryside.
Prepare your passport and get ready to venture beyond your
backyard. Join us for exclusive experiences that bring you closer
to the world – and the people you’ve missed.
SAVE UP TO $2,000 PER STATEROOM*
Plus, receive up to $300 onboard credit.
For reservations, please contact our Travel Agency.
Terms may apply; ask for details// ON THE TRAIL
FRIDA KAHLO’S
MEXICO CITY
Discover this dynamic city through significant
spots related to the artist, says Tamsin Wressell
m
exico City wasn’t just where Frida Kahlo Xochimilco Museo Dolores
was born, lived and died — the painter In southern Mexico City, the Olmedo
had a deep affinity for the vibrant city. neighborhood gives way to the last This Xochimilco museum hosts the
Walking in her footsteps can reveal so much, remains of a vast waterway system most extensive private collection
from her favorite drinking haunt to the most built and used by the Aztecs. This is of works by Frida and her husband
extensive collection of her work, encompassing a spot Frida would often visit with Diego Rivera. The collection is in a
some of the most significant places in the her friends to escape the city. It’s sprawling complex of 16th-century
artist’s life. It takes in two of the most notable a peaceful area, with a network of stone buildings. Peacocks roam the
neighborhoods in Frida’s life: Coyoacán and canals including floating gardens, grounds, while inside there are
Xochimilco, with popular attractions scattered which can be explored on colorful around two dozen works by Frida,
through the hearts of both. boats with snacks, drinks and live including Self Portrait with Small
music available. Monkey and The Broken Column.
ILLUSTR ATION: LIS WATKINS
18 // postcardsMuseo Casa
Estudio Diego
Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Just outside of Coyoacán in
San Ángel, this house-studio
was custom designed for Frida
and Diego. The two separate
buildings are connected by a
bridge and fenced off by a row
of tall cacti. Diego’s building
shows natural colors and small
windows, while Frida’s is
painted cobalt blue and is filled
with light by the sun.
Museo Casa Azul Cantina La
Also known as the Frida Guadalupana
Kahlo Museum or the Blue This cantina was Frida and
House for its cobalt blue walls, Diego’s local bar of choice for
inside and out, Casa Azul is drinking tequila or pulque.
where Frida lived for most of her Although the original cantina
life. It offers an intimate look is closed, the building is mostly
into the artist’s life. Some of her unchanged and there’s some
famous works, including Frida old signage out the front from
and the Cesarean and Viva la Frida’s days. Today, it’s still a
Vida, can be found here amid rustic Mexican cantina, with
various belongings, from diaries a menu of local favorites, like
to furniture, as well as her ashes, meatballs and beef tartar, as
which are in the bedroom. well as premium tequilas.
summer 2021 // 19// CULTURE
UNDERWATER
MUSEUMS
There are many treasures to be seen under the sea
around the world, finds Tamsin Wressell
CANCÚN UNDERWATER BAIA UNDERWATER UNDERWATER MUSEUM Clockwise from left: Sculptures
MUSEUM, MÉXICO ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK, OF CANNES, FRANCE at Cancún Underwater Museum;
Roman ruins at Baia Underwater
Over 500 sculptures reside here, NAPLES, ITALY Newly opened under the
archaeological Park; shipwreck in
created by six renowned artists, An ancient Roman town Mediterranean, off the Île
Lake Huron, Ontario, Canada; SS
at depths of between 13 and can be found 40ft below the Sainte Marguerite, this Yongala, Queensland; shipwreck,
26ft. A giant hand rising waves here in the Gulf of gallery is the creation of Key Largo, Florida
up from the seabed can be Naples. In ancient times, renowned British sculptor Jason
found in one spot, while an Baia was a coastal resort city deCaires Taylor. It features six
army of life-size meditating with healing hot springs gigantic faces, each weighing
figures can be found elsewhere. (Caesar, Cicero and Nero 10 tons and modeled on local
The sculptures are made from were all visitors). Today, it’s residents. The purpose of the
pH-neutral marine concrete, an underwater archaeological project is to draw attention to
images: al amy; Ge t t y
to promotes coral growth site, complete with mosaic the declining state of oceans
— meaning they’re continuously floors, statues and the ruined around the world and to
changing as new life takes buildings. Not surprisingly it’s a encourage people to feel more
shape on them. popular spot for divers. connected with the water.
20 // postcardstop five
wrecks to dive
SHIPWRECK TRAIL,
FLORIDA KEYS
A series of nine
shipwrecks that lie amid
the coral reefs of Florida
Keys National Marine
Sanctuary, stretching from
Key Largo to Key West.
SS YONGALA,
QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA
SS Yongala sank during a
1911 cyclone; today, the
wreck teems with life.
THE TABARKA, SCAPA
FLOW, SCOTLAND
The Tabarka was scuttled
in 1940 to protect the
entrance of Scapa Flow
from Nazi submarines;
these day, an array of
colorful life clings to the
sides of the unturned ship.
SWEEPSTAKES,
ONTARIO, CANADA
An easily accessed
shipwreck in the shallows
of Bruce County. It can
BAIHELIANG be viewed from glass-
UNDERWATER MUSEUM, bottom kayaks, which
CHONGQING, CHINA can be rented from Big
This underwater museum is Tub Lighthouse.
built around Baiheliang (‘white
crane ridge’), an archaeological CRISTOBAL COLON,
site that was submerged 140ft BERMUDA
below the surface of the Yangtze A massive cruise liner
River when the Three Gorges that ran aground on a
Dam was built. The ridge bears reef in 1936. Since then,
centuries-old inscriptions it’s slowly fallen apart and
recording changes in the water been scattered across a
level of the river, as well as large area of seabed by the
poems. The ridge is viewed prevailing currents.
through the subterranean
museum’s windows.
summer 2021 // 2122 // postcards
Blue
Pearl
Beyond the
Snowy peaks, guiding goats and a warm welcome
are just some of the reasons to linger in northern
Morocco, says Joel Balsam
images: al amy; ge t t y; awl images
summer 2021 // 23// NORTHERN MOROCCO
The blue pearl isn’t
usually a place
where many linger
Most people pass through Chefchaouen’s purpose of a base for their fight against
impossibly vibrant blue alleyways in a Spanish Ceuta, which still exists as a slice
day or two before moving on to Tangier, of Europe in Africa today. In the late-15th
Tetouan, Fez, or elsewhere. Once you’ve century, the village attracted Muslims
taken your snaps in front of a blue staircase and Jews from Granada, but there’s one
and a colorful flower pot, you’ve done your key fact about Chefchaouen that remains
duty. But contrary to that, I spent weeks elusive to this day. No one knows exactly
in Chefchaouen, taste-testing every tajine why the village maintains its blue hue,
and bissara (soothing bean soup), touring which the villagers so diligently keep up
every whimsical dar and riad, looking for year after year. One common belief is that
reasons to linger longer. the blue paint was started in the town’s
My search led me to discover the meaning Jewish mellah (neighborhood), as it was Right, from top: view of
of Chefchaouen: ‘look at the peaks.’ believed blue was a symbol of divinity. Chefchaouen and the Rif
I heeded this wise advice and set my sites Other theories suggest that blue is a clever Mountains; alleyway in
on a hike in the Rif Mountains. As my way to deter mosquitos, or simply that Chefchaouen; cooking
partner Stephanie and I began hiking up keeping up the paint job is a great way to traditional Moroccan tagines
and around the nearest mountain, Jebel attract tourists. But whatever the reason Previous pages, from top left:
el-Kelaa, nothing could have prepared us for the blue, Chefchaouen is breathtaking, hiking in the Rif Mountains; blue
for the view, which grew more and more especially from this great height. djellabas hanging on a wall; flower
sublime. Chefchaouen’s bright babs (keyhole We decided to skirt the mountain and pots on steps in Chefchaouen;
doorways), red-tiled roofs, and rumbling ambitiously head for the 5,500ft limestone local man selling handiwork in
images: al amy; ge t t y
call to prayer made a valiant ploy to rope Sfiha Telj Pass. I’d read that the Rif are the street; street cat; seated man
me back to the city — but I pressed on. Morocco’s greenest mountains, but up dressed in traditional djellaba
Amazigh (Riffian Berber) tribes were here in the clouds, I found white was the robes; medina; colored powders
the first to inhabit Chefchaouen for the dominant color, as the springtime snow used to dye fabrics
24 // postcardssummer 2021 // 25
// NORTHERN MOROCCO
Whatever the reason
for the blue, the town is
breathtaking, especially
Chefchaouen is known
from this great height
for the striking,
blue-washed buildings
of its old town.
images: al amy
Right: Chefchaouen
from above
26 // postcardssummer 2021 // 27
28 // postcards
// NORTHERN MOROCCO
“Taking hadn’t yet melted. I deeply inhaled the a trail and we passed Sidi Meftah, a small
a walk
crisp, mountain air and crunched through mausoleum hidden among the pine woods,
the snow for one more look at the beautiful we continued walking, and walking and
on the
blue city before turning my gaze to the walking. I soon got that terrible feeling
unknown, squinting to see if I could spot in my gut that nobody wants when hiking
the Mediterranean Sea on the horizon. — we were lost. We still had four hours
wild side,
As we winded down the other side of the to hike that day to get to the next town or
mountain, jovial chickens cooed us to a gîte guesthouse — that is, if we could find the
letting the
(guesthouse), where we were welcomed trail. At this rate, we’d be lucky to make
with open arms by our host family — and it there by nightfall.
goats be
plenty of food. The hosts, like many in On the third time passing the same point,
the Rif, were descendants of indigenous I took a stab at blazing my own trail in the
our guide”
Amazigh (meaning free people), also known general compass direction of the next town.
as Berbers, who’ve inhabited North Africa As we dipped down a switchback goat path,
for thousands of years. In recent years, wildflowers tickled my calves and the views
Amazigh activists have been in a constant were stunning; we stopped frequently. At
battle with the Moroccan monarchy over one point, we perched on a vista and found
recognition of their culture and language, ourselves surrounded by a flock of goats and
Tamazight. In 2011, they achieved one I recalled a saying my best friend uttered
of their largest goals, when Tamazight the last time I visited the Rif Mountains:
was recognized as an official language in “Taking a walk on the wild side, letting the
Morocco, though their fight for absolute goats be our guide.”
images: al amy; 4corners
respect continues. Down in the valley, it was unclear whether
With our bellies full of couscous from the to go on the right or left side of a passing
Left, clockwise: solo hiker in the night before and olives, cheese with fig jam river. Thankfully, there was a farmer who
Rif Mountains; enjoying lunch in from breakfast that morning, we got started called out in broken French and managed
Chefchaouen; goat on an argan tree on the day’s hike. As the path narrowed to to set us back on the goat path. We carefully
summer 2021 // 29EXPLORE THE WORLD
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Contact our travel agency for details and book your Backroads adventure today.// NORTHERN MOROCCO
We could sped up and down the rocky slopes years by the river below it, known locally as
see for
towards the nearest town, the views ever God’s Bridge.
more breathtaking. It was starting to get We climbed higher and took a breather
miles,
dark when we found ourselves surrounded alongside some bright, beautifully scented
again, but this time by a group of children purple bushes. At the peak, we could see
before
gawking at these strange and haggard for miles, before the trail dipped into a
voyagers. On the road into the town, valley with plenty of farms, including dead
Akchour, our anxiety transformed into kif fields. Yassine explained that since kif
the trail
amazement as we looked down at the village harvest is in September, these plants must
oasis nestled into the lush mountains that have been from last year, and if I wanted
dipped
surrounded it. to offer a helping hand planting seeds
We slept well to the soothing sound of there’s a good chance a farmer would give
into a
water smashing into the town’s dam and me work and a place to rest. “Maybe next
decided in the morning that I’d continue time,” I said. I had a hike to finish and my
valley
the journey and my partner would return partner to get back to.
to Chefchaouen — I really had to find out I have little doubt that I would have
more about Akchour and the wonderful become lost for a third time on the
backcountry that surrounded it. However, unmarked trail if not for my trusty local
this time, I decided to employ the assistance guide, but fortunately Yassine steered
of a guide who knew the way. us through tiny paths between gaping
Yassine, an experienced and athletic local mountains and over a thrashing river before
guide, took me back into the mountains, reaching a humble gîte in Taourarte. There,
skirting one of them for 45 minutes so that we celebrated the day’s end with — what else
images: ge t t y; al amy
Above: mint tea, made from leaves I could see something special. Possibly the — mint tea.
bought from the local market, served most astonishing natural sight I’d never With an early start, we raced down the
on a blue terrace in Chefchaouen; even heard of: an 82ft red rock stone bridge, mountain along a narrow, rocky path and I
mountains near Akchour which has been carved over thousands of tried not to peer over the steep cliff’s edge.
summer 2021 // 31// NORTHERN MOROCCO
Yassine pointed to a shortcut through some
bushes, so I sat and then slipped down a
hill. When I landed, I had to readjust my
eyes to take in the spectacular sight in front
of me. The Akchour waterfall gushed over
multicolored jagged rocks cut at impossible
angles down into a large and circular pond.
Hopping back and forth like frogs over
patches of rock across the stream, the trail
finally leveled off and we started to run
into daytrippers along the trail. Every
10 minutes or so there was a food stall with
plastic tables and chairs, and we walked
past locals tucking into tajines and drinking
sodas in view of rumbling waterfalls. One
group was clapping, playing tambourines,
and dancing in circles — the nature around
us was indeed worth celebrating.
When we got back to the river dam and
Akchour, I took a moment to stop and smell
the flowers. I was tempted to linger here
longer, relaxing at a riverside resort with
a Scandinavian-style spa, but it was time
to hop into a taxi back to Chefchaouen. I’d Twilight at Chefchaouen
found the Rif adventure I was looking for.
// ESSENTIALS
SPAIN
When to go: Spring is a great time to visit as
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Tangier Mediterranean temperatures aren’t too hot, visitors aren’t too
Sea
numerous and wildflowers dot the mountain tops.
Jebel el Kelaa
Chefchaouen
Taourarte Currency: Moroccan dirhams. $1 = 8.9 dirhams
Language: Darija (Moroccan Arabic) is the country’s images: awl images. map illustr ation: john plumer
M O R O C C O official language along with Tamazight, spoken among
Amazigh in the Rif. French is used as a lingua franca.
Chefchaouen
Getting around: Taxis, both private and shared, are
Rabat Fès
M ORO CCO a popular way to get from city to city in all of Morocco.
100 miles
High-speed trains also link Tangier (the gateway to the
north) with Rabat and Casablanca.
CALL US To book your trip to Morocco, contact our travel agency
32 // postcardsYour Charter Experience.
Our Exacting Standards.
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and COLOR
An exciting range of food experiences is on offer
in Houston, thanks to the city’s dining
entrepreneurs, finds Sarah Barrell
images: ge t t y; al amy; Chris Brown
34 // postcardssummer 2021 // 35
// HOUSTON
‘B
lack-eyed peas: a bean first designed to mirror the theme of each professionals from costlier US coastal
domesticated in Africa, used to soiree. “The dishes recall things I ate as cities. Houston has several times eclipsed
make akara, a West African a child — memories of flavors,” says chef New York and LA as the most ethnically
black-eyed pea fritter,’ says my menu at Dawn Burrell. “But it’s also more than that: diverse city in the US — a Texan hub whose
Kulture. Such food provenance annotations it’s a kind of global comfort food. I wanted rainbow diaspora colors its culinary
embellish the list of dishes served at to push the limits of what’s expected from culture, stretching the state’s menu options
Houston’s coolest ‘neo soul food’ outfit these traditional ingredients.” way beyond the ubiquitous Tex-Mex fare.
— tidbits written lightly in the margins to Dawn is familiar with pushing limits, “There’s such an incredible diversity of
enrich the dining experience for those who having trained as a chef at the Art Institute food here,” says Star Gilani, who includes
care to pay attention. The flavors, however, of Houston when injury put an end to an Kulture in the itineraries offered at her
speak for themselves — at once homespun impressive Olympic career in track and field. culinary walking tours company Best Bites
yet popping with contemporary American- Since my visit, during the pandemic, Dawn Houston. “You could have, say, dumplings
Afro-Caribbean fusion. There’s the has founded Pivot, a food delivery business for breakfast, sushi for lunch and Ethiopian
cornmeal-based johnnycakes with a chili created in association with woman-led for dinner. And then start all over again
maple glaze, collard greens blanched and culinary network I’ll Have What She’s Having somewhere else in the world the following
stuffed with smoked turkey in little ‘purses’, and, more recently she’s stood down from day. A lot of it is within walking distance —
and shrimp and grits in a sherry sauce that’s Kulture to open a hospitality group, set up a surprise in high-rise Houston.”
as close to refined as comfort food gets. her first independent restaurant and made A full 95 city blocks of climate-controlled
Kulture’s dishes are adventurous, her debut in the latest season of reality TV subterranean walkways, hidden beneath
colorful and packed with made-in-Houston competition Top Chef, on Bravo. Houston’s Downtown core, are lined with
images: al amy; ge t t y
character. The venue hosts regular ‘salons’, Such entrepreneurial spirit defines restaurants and shops that offer a haven
bringing together artists, campaigners Houston, one of America’s fastest-growing from the city’s notoriously humid heat.
and culinary entrepreneurs for evenings metropolises, whose affordable living “People used to stay below ground, or in
of ‘art and conversation’, with menus costs are attracting an influx of young their offices, and just come out to visit the
36 // postcards// 4 TO TRY
For unexpected indulgence:
1 masala lamb lollipops
Indian cuisine is having a moment in
foodie cities nationwide, including
Houston, where South Asian spices
fuse indulgently with homegrown
ingredients. Try lamb chops pimped
with tandoori masala, ginger, and chili
jam at Ambrosia.
The sandwich to end
2 them all: shawarma
The garlicky lamb and chicken wraps
are Phoenicia Specialty Foods’ signature,
// THERE’S SUCH bringing lunching workers from across
the city to its vast Downtown deli. Here,
AN INCREDIBLE
you can also build your own sub from
a boggling range of cold cuts, from
DIVERSITY OF
basterma, a rich, cured beef from the
Middle East, to pistachio mortadella.
FOOD HERE 3
Get your grill on: brisket
Brisket usurps ribs and sausage
for meaty supremacy on Houston’s grills,
with spices originally brought over by
bank or whatever, but there are so many Jewish immigrants. Since then, everyone’s
great places opening now, it’s tempting got in on the act, with Vietnamese the
people out onto the streets, for lunch and current flavor of the month, notably at
after work too,” says Star. Leading the Blood Bros. BBQ, located in the suburb
charge is a new generation of food halls. of Bellaire.
In the year leading up to the pandemic,
Downtown added some notable food outlets For fire and flavor:
to its burgeoning crop of upscale culinary 4 Viet-Cajun seafood broil
courts that cater to the growing number Of the many Houston restaurants serving
of professionals arriving in the city. At Fin mudbugs cooked in French butter, and
Hall, on the ground floor of the handsome, mountains of freshly chopped garlic and
art deco JPMorgan Chase Building, I savor Viet spices, Crawfish & Noodle (owned
some signature pork belly bites at Dish by James Beard Award semifinalist Trong
Society, owned by local food impresario Nguyen) is a must-try. Get elbow-deep
Aaron Lyon, whose mini menu offers a in paprika-red chili oil and don’t be too
taster of what’s on offer at his full-blown city proud to don that plastic bib.
bistros. More chef-driven micro restaurants
are found under one roof at nearby Bravery
Chef Hall, where I marvel at delicate sushi Left: Downtown skyline from
creations sliced and served in front of diners Eleanor Tinsley Park
at Kokoro by the feted sushi chef duo who Previous page, clockwise from
also run Houston’s Uchi, and manage to top: Street art in Downtown; Street
save just about enough room to sample some food; dining room at B&B Butchers
of the meatier fare at Blind Goat, whose & Restaurant; shrimp and grits
summer 2021 // 37// HOUSTON
Top restaurants
UB Preserv:
Is there anything more Houston than
an ‘al pastor pork chop’? Perhaps
slow-cooked Vietnamese short-rib
fajita, or whole-roasted Gulf fish with
brown butter and green curry — all of
which is on the menu at this hipster
Montrose bar-restaurant.
The Breakfast Klub:
A Houston institution serving an
all-day Southern diner-style menu:
no-fuss ‘katfish and grits’, ‘wings &
// the inclusive, can-do ethos
waffles’ and ‘biskits and gravy’ in
floor-you portion sizes. The lightest,
of the city’s namesake still
fragrant batter encases the signature
juicy fried chicken pieces.
feels present Kulture:
A ‘neo soul’ food restaurant,
where local art dominates the
walls, and Afro-American comfort
Asian-American comfort food is devised by out touma, a Syrian village cheese made food gets inventive with meatloaf
2012 MasterChef champion Christine Hà. by entrepreneurial refugees, referring to it meatballs, Oxtail ragu, and
But for all its fresh new outlets, some as “the oldest cheese known to man”, and creative cocktails.
of Houston’s best food addresses are shanklish, a ball of spice-encrusted sharp,
images: UB PRESERVE; AWL IMAGES; GE T T Y; Geoffre y Lyon / Copyright 2017 G. LYON PHOTOGR APHY, Inc
longstanding. Phoenicia Specialty Foods has dry cheese “which captures the exciting Vargas Cut & Catch:
a sprawling two-story emporium for global flavors of the East.” I leave, after several hours The Gulf Coast port city of Galveston
foods in Downtown, set up by husband- spent browsing, with a bag full of house-made Island, under an hour away, marries
and-wife team Arpi and Zohrab Tcholakian, baklava, and Phonecia’s secret-recipe za’atar. cobbled streets and broad beaches
Lebanese immigrants who’d lived for But the city’s historic backbone stretches with dockside industry and great
almost four decades in Houston.“We opened back further than the 20th-century food. This latest venue for Rudy
this venue in 2011 when Downtown was immigration that’s shaped its skyscraper and Paco Vargas serves fried green
yet to fully develop,” says their son, Haig skyline. Further back, even, than its turn- tomatoes topped with jumbo lump
Tcholakian. “It used to be tumbleweeds of-the-century oil boom, whose riches built crab, lobster bisque and prime cuts
around here at night. Now it’s all kids and Houston’s mansions, art collections and of grilled Texan Wagyu.
dogs and bikes, and cafes.” theatres, attracting dance and opera ingénues
What began as a modest grocery store is from Europe riding on the coattails of oil- Belly of the Beast:
now spread over two venues (one out of town baron offspring. Across the road from my This family-run joint offers up
in Westchase), home to several restaurants, mainly women-run hotel, the C. Baldwin sushi-grade hamachi tostadas,
delis, food markets and bar-cafes. As (named after Charlotte Baldwin Allen, the Mexican hummus made with refried
well as catering to Downtown’s growing ‘mother of Houston’, a businesswoman chickpeas and almond salsa, and
residential demographic, Phoenecia also responsible for much of the city’s cultural overnight lamb barbacoa in
supplies chefs on the hunt for such recherché landscape), I explore Sam Houston Park. handmade tortillas with birria
ingredients as premium Iranian dates and Among its collection of historic buildings, dipping broth.
whole pickled Baltic herring. Haig points transplanted from around the city, the
38 // postcardsBuffalo Bayou Park
Clockwise from below
right: shrimp and
lobster served at
Vargas Cut & Catch;
Avenida Houston;
food at UB Preserv
summer 2021 // 39// HOUSTON
// ESSENTIALS
UNIT ED STAT ES
OF AMERICA
Sam Houston Park
Al fresco dining Midtown
TEXAS
Houston Finn Hall
Downtown
Phoenicia Kulture
Foods
H O U S T O N
UB Preserv Mi dtown
simply titled Old Place — roughly built for a major dance company; it goes against all Mon tr ose
The Breakfast Klub
from cedar logs and mortise — exemplifies those banking and bull-riding stereotypes.”
Texas frontier architecture. The one-room I bid Houston a punchy farewell, courtesy
home contains a cooking pot, and of the latest fusion to dominate the city’s 500 yards Pier 6 Seafood
20 miles
handmade utensils that speak of the food scene: Viet-Cajun. Neighboring New
hardships faced by immigrants in Orleans has lent the city its classic Cajun
mosquito-ridden colonial Texas. crawfish broil, and Houston’s Vietnamese When to go: The best times to visit
images: Visit Houston (Hugh Hargr ave ); MAP ILLUSTR ATION: John Plumer
Things have come a long way since the community has added ginger, chili and are from February to April or September
park’s titular Sam Houston, the pro-Union fish sauce to the established French-bayou to November, as the weather is pleasant
anti-slavery army general, became the flavors. At UB Preserv, culinary hipster Chris and there’s plenty going on. Winters are
first President of the Republic of Texas. Shepherd’s latest Houston address, I sample mild and snowfall is rare, summers are
But the inclusive, can-do ethos of the city’s US-Viet crawfish dan dan noodles, along with very hot and humid.
namesake still feels present. “Hollywood dumplings, king crab, and ribs with pan- Currency: USD
wants to portray us as a blue-collar oil town,” Asian spices. It’s served with crisp, white- Language: English
says city guide Richard Cook. “But our arts linen napkins and an even crisper cocktail Getting around: A car is useful
institutions educate all manner of children; made from blanco tequila, lemon, pear salt unless you’ll just be exploring
one of our prima ballerinas was one of the and soda: a little Tex, a little Mex but a whole Downtown and the South Main corridor,
first African Americans to become a principal lot of Houston. which are connected by a light rail
system. The citywide bus service covers
most places. Taxis are plentiful but it’s
CALL US To book your trip to Houston, contact our travel agency easier to call ahead or use hotel taxi
stands than to hail one on the street.
40 // postcardsVOYAGES
DV
DISTINCTIVE
VOYAGES
YOUR VOYAGE, ENHANCED
Crystal Serenity, Mo’orea, French Polynesia
True to its name, a Distinctive Voyages cruise is different because With over 300 departures annually across 12 cruise lines you will be
it comes with a special set of bonus amenities that include: spoiled for choice as you decide where and when you would like to travel.
Here are just a few examples of our Distinctive Voyages on offer:
• The services of a Distinctive Voyages Host to assist
you throughout your journey
7-NIGHT RHINE CASTLES & SWISS ALPS CHRISTMAS
• An invitation to a Private Welcome Reception to Departs November 27, 2021 10-NIGHT ITALIAN RETREAT
aboard AmaSerena Departs September 8, 2021
meet like-minded VIPs Basel to Amsterdam aboard Seven Seas Mariner
Venice to Barcelona
• An Exclusive Amenity that will include one of the
following: an exclusive shore event, an on-board
11-DAY ARUBA, BONAIRE & CURACAO
experience, an in-room gift or a shipboard credit Departs November 22, 2021 7-DAY WINDWARD ISLANDS
aboard Celebrity Silhouette SURF & SUNSETS
Imagine your delight as you re-discover the world whether it Roundtrip Ft. Lauderdale Departs December 4, 2021
aboard Star Pride
be the beautiful architecture of St. Petersburg, the history of Roundtrip San Juan
ancient Greece or the taste of a freshly made pizza in Naples! 7-DAY
12-DaySTUNNING
Glitz to SCENERY
Glaciers
When you are ready to rediscover the world, let us help Departs JulyRegatta
aboard 29, 2021
aboard
May 13,Regatta
2022
you book one of our amazing Distinctive Voyages. Roundtrip Seattle
Disclaimer: Sailing dates and amenities, including exclusive shore events, are current at time of printing and are subject to change without notice. Amenities apply to 1st and 2nd passenger only. Offers
are subject to availability, at time of booking, and may be altered or withdrawn at any time without notice. Booking procedure is current at time of print. Pricing will be confirmed at time of booking.
Cancellations, refunds, and penalties are imposed by the individual cruise lines. Distinctive Voyages amenities may be substituted if a minimum number of guests are not confirmed on any given
departure. Exclusive Shore Events vary. Combinability variesThrough the
PACIFIC
N O R T H W E S T
An American Queen Steamboat Company cruise is an
excellent way to explore history, finds Tamara Gane
a
trip to the Pacific Northwest is a
journey through history and
geography. Snowy mountains and
forests loom above ancient gorges while bald
eagles circle the sky.
Indigenous peoples, fur traders and
pioneers made their mark upon this land,
and there are many interpretive centers
along the Columbia River dedicated to
telling their stories. Farms and meadows
dot the landscape and vineyards cover the
undulating hills. You could easily spend a
lifetime here, but if you can only spend a
images: ge t t y
short while, the American Queen Steamboat
Company’s Columbia and Snake River
cruises offer up the best of the region.
42 // postcardsColumbia River
from Rowena Crest
Viewpoint, Oregon
Left: A bear with a freshly
caught salmon in the
Great Bear Rainforest of
British Columbia
summer 2021 // 43VANCOUVER, WASHINGTON
History comes alive in the small city of
Vancouver, Washington. The area was
originally home to indigenous people
from tribes like the Chinook, Klickitat
and Cowlitz, who fished and gathered
food along the Columbia River. In 1824,
European settlers established a fur trading
post, naming it Fort Vancouver. It was part
of British Columbia until 1846. This is now
the Fort Vancouver National Historic Site, a
190-acre property with interpretive displays
dedicated to the region’s indigenous
and European history. The Pearson Air
Museum is here, as is a full-size replica of
the original fort. This is the gateway to the
Vancouver Land Bridge, a 40ft-wide earth-
covered bridge flanked by Native American
weavings and indigenous plants, connecting
the fort to the Columbia River. Designed
by Maya Lin as part of the Confluence
Project, the bridge snakes and curves and
is considered to be one of the architectural
masterpieces of the Pacific Northwest.
Antique equipment at the
Columbia River Maritime
Museum, Astoria
Above: A man fillets
salmon with the
Astoria-Megler Bridge
in the background
Right: Salmon fishing at
the mouth of the Columbia
River near Astoria
images: AWL IMAGES; SHUT TERSTOCK
44 // postcards// PACIFIC NORTHWEST
more cruises...
The American Queen
Steamboat Company runs
Special Edition Voyages
throughout the year. We’ve
picked a few highlights:
THE KENTUCKY DERBY
This special cruise is
designed around the
famous race. Cruisers
can upgrade to a package
which includes VIP access
and premium seating at
Churchill Downs. The
nine-day cruise departs
from Cincinnati, Ohio,
The Interstate and takes in Madison,
Bridge crossing the Indiana, and Louisville,
Columbia River Below: Brandenburg and
The Esther Short Park in Owensboro in Kentucky.
Vancouver, Washington
AN AMERICAN MUSIC
FESTIVAL
Discover the sights and
ASTORIA sounds of America’s rivers
Astoria, Oregon was the filming location for and the roots of blues,
movies like The Goonies and Kindergarten Cop, rock and roll and country
and it’s clear why Hollywood was repeatedly through Kentucky and
drawn to this tiny town. Located a few miles Tennessee. Onboard
from the spot where the Columbia River activities include late night
reaches the Pacific Ocean, the town looks country jamboree, sock
like it’s been frozen in time. Victorian-style hop and blues jams.
homes dot the hills and a vintage trolley
clanks along the waterfront in warmer WINE CRUISE
months. The best views can be found at This cruise through the
the Astoria Column. Built in 1926, this heart of wine country
125ft structure is painted with stunning from Spokane to Portland
depictions of Oregon’s history. Climb the features wines from Pacific
16-step spiral staircase for panoramic views Northwest wineries, a
of the Columbia River, Pacific Ocean and private wine reception
forests of nearby Washington State. Other at your pre-voyage hotel
Astoria highlights include the Columbia and tastings, pairings
River Maritime Museum and the Flavel and talks by regional
House Museum, which is housed in a Queen experts, as well as special
Anne mansion. Astoria is also home to the dinner menus inspired by
tasting room of Eunice Chiweshe Goldstein featured wines.
Winery, founded by Oregon’s first black
winery owner.
summer 2021 // 45You can also read
