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REGIONAL AMERICAN CUISINE MARCH/APRIL 2021
Chef Jason D. Hall, CMC
VP of Research & Culinary Development at Southbend
LET THE CUSTOMIZABLE
Through my time in the industry, from taking
the Certified Master Chef Exam to practicing
daily for over three years on Culinary Team
SOLUTIONS OF A
USA leading up to IKA, I have always needed
the support of custom equipment solutions.
Now on the other side of those and many other
SOUTHBEND SUITE BE
industry endeavors, I am proud to provide my
personal support to you as we design and build
the cooking suite of your dreams.
THE HEARTBEAT OF Contact me, Jason D. Hall, CMC Vice President
of Research and Culinary Development at
Southbend to have a consultation of your vision
YOUR KITCHEN and how we can achieve your goals together.
Open Top Burners • Manual/Thermostatic Griddles • Planchas • Induction Tops • Electric Tops
Charbroilers • Broilers • Hot Tops • French Tops • Cheesemelters • Salamanders • Fryers
TruVection • TruVapor • Convection/Standard Ovens • Cabinet Space • Refrigerated Bases • Shelving
919.762.1000 | www.southbendnc.com |
FEATURE STORIES
28 Regional American Cuisine
From the Wild West to the Deep South, we explore the foods of Arizona and Colorado and learn the
differences between Creole and Cajun cooking.
36 Pandemic Pop-Ups
Pop-up restaurants and menus are making a comeback as chefs find new ways to experiment.
DEPARTMENTS
10 Management
Leveraging new technologies — from software programs to kitchen equipment — enhances
efficiencies during challenging times and beyond.
16 Main Course
A look at lesser-known, lower-cost cuts of meat and ways to prepare them for maximum flavor.
20 On the Side
Try these game meats on for size, courtesy of an Indigenous chef and ACF member.
22 Pastry
Biscuits feature just a few simple ingredients, but variations abound by region and daypart.
26 Classical vs. Modern
A study of classic manicotti and a modern, plant-based version.
44 Health
Chefs offer tips on how to stress less and prioritize self-care.
46 Segment Spotlight
Chefs in the hotels and resorts segment talk about the changes they’ve made in the past year, many
of which have become permanent.
IN EACH ISSUE 14 Chapter Close-Up
4 President’s Message 40 ACF Chef Profile
6 On the Line 42 Chef-to-Chef
7 News Bites 50 The Quiz
WEARECHEFS.COM 3
| President’s Message | Un Mensaje Del Presidente |
As I write this, there is still snow on the ground, so
I’m looking forward to spring. This year, I’m even
more eager for spring and summer to come, and
perhaps you are as well. The past year has been tough,
but the future looks bright. I say this as we are deep
in the process of planning our annual convention
Editor-in-Chief
Amelia Levin
in Orlando, Florida, in August, which we hope will
Creative Services Manager “Ignite Your Passion.”
David Ristau
After spending so much time apart, we’re designing this year’s convention to
Graphic Designer
Armando Mitra be all about bringing the ACF family back together, reuniting with old friends
Advertising and Event Sales and connections, and hopefully making new ones. Of course, education is at
Eric Gershowitz
Jeff Rhodes the core of what we do, so we can’t wait to share with you the final lineup of
Director of Marketing and Communications
Alan Sterling
presenters and all the topics to be covered. The other core part of our convention
is competitions. The structure of competitions — and other programming —
American Culinary Federation, Inc. might look slightly little different this year as we take the necessary precautions to
180 Center Place Way • St. Augustine, FL 32095 ensure the safety of all of our competing chefs and attendees. But they will still be
(800) 624-9458 • (904) 824-4468 • Fax: (904) 940-0741
ncr@acfchefs.net • ACFSales@mci-group.com
as exciting and enlightening as ever.
www.acfchefs.org First and foremost, I want to thank you, our ACF community, for your
unyielding support. It is your loyalty and commitment to our organization, as well
Board of Directors as the camaraderie you share with your fellow chefs, that keep us moving forward,
President
Thomas Macrina, CEC®, CCA®, AAC® growing stronger, and able to give back to each other and our communities at
National Secretary large. Also, thank you to the attendees of the first President’s Town Hall meeting.
Mark Wright, CEC, AAC
National Treasurer
We will be hosting four more this month, featuring candidates running for
James Taylor, CEC, AAC, MBA National Office, so be sure to tune in! We greatly value your feedback, comments
American Academy of Chefs Chair
Americo “Rico” DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC and ideas.
Vice President Central Region I would also like to give a shout out to all of our allied partners, vendors and
Steven Jilleba, CMC®, CCE®, AAC
Vice President Northeast Region
suppliers who support the ACF and our chef-members throughout the year. We
Barry R. Young, CEC, CCE, AAC wouldn’t be able to plan a superior event without you, and we are so grateful.
Vice President Southeast Region
Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC®, CCA, AAC Also, I am happy to report that since the start of the year, more chapters
Vice President Western Region have been getting together with their own members and with other chapters
Robert W. Phillips, CEC, CCA, AAC
Executive Director
— both safely in person as well as in engaging virtual meetings, the latter of
Heidi Cramb which is thanks to the success of our online forum, Chef ’s Table. Our new
webinar series supports these efforts to keep you connected, engaged and
The National Culinary Review® (ISSN 0747-7716), March/April
2021, Volume 45, Number 2, is owned by the American Culinary informed. And, stay tuned for continued programming through our Online
Federation, Inc. (ACF) and is produced 6 times a year by ACF,
located at 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095. A Learning Center.
digital subscription to the National Culinary Review® is included
with ACF membership dues; print subscriptions are available
In closing, I want to remind you that we at ACF here for your needs. Our
to ACF members for $25 per year, domestic; nonmember 90-day trial membership for new members and flexible payment plan have
subscriptions are $40. Material from the National Culinary
Review®, in whole or in part, may not be reproduced without been working very well. We encourage you to take advantage of those options,
written permission. All views and opinions expressed in the
National Culinary Review® are those of the author and do not should you need them, and feel free to share this information with potential
necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers or
members of ACF. Changes of mailing address should be sent
ACF members. We’re also working on developing other exclusive benefits and
to ACF’s national office: 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL opportunities for our members.
32095; (800) 624-9458; Fax (904) 940-0741.
Happy spring, and I can’t wait to see you all again!
The National Culinary Review® is mailed and periodical postage
is paid at St. Augustine, Fla., and additional post offices.
POSTMASTER: Send address changes to the National Culinary
Review®, 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095.
Thomas “Tom” Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC
National President
American Culinary Federation
Contact me at tmacrina@acfchefs.net or
follow me on Twitter @cheftommacrina
and Instagram @cheftommacrina
4 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021
Mientras escribo esto, todavía hay nieve en el suelo, así que estoy deseando USPS® Statement of Ownership, Management and Circulation
Publication Title: The National Culinary Review®
que llegue la primavera. Este año, estoy aún más ansioso por la llegada de Publication Number: 0747-7716
Filing Date: December, 2020
la primavera y el verano, y quizás ustedes también lo estén. El año pasado
Issue Frequency: Bi-monthly
fue difícil, pero el futuro es prometedor. Digo esto ya que estamos inmersos Number of Issues Published Annually: 6
Annual Subscription Price: $35/$25 subscriber/member domestic, $85 international
en el proceso de planificación de nuestra convención anual en Orlando, Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: American Culinary Federation,
Florida para el mes de agosto, la cual esperamos “encienda su pasión”. Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859
Contact Person: Alan Sterling, Director of Marketing & Communication
Después de pasar tanto tiempo separados, estamos diseñando la Telephone: (904) 484-0247
convención de este año para volver a reunir a la familia de ACF, para Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher:
American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859
reencontrarnos con viejos amigos y contactos y, con suerte, hacer Publisher: Alan Sterling, Director of Marketing and Communications, American Culinary
Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859
algunos nuevos. Por supuesto, la educación está en el centro de lo que Editor: Amelia Levin, Editor in Chief, American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way,
St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859
hacemos, y es por eso que estamos ansiosos por compartir con ustedes Managing Editor: Amelia Levin, Editor in Chief, American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center
la lista final de disertantes y todos los temas que se tratarán. La otra Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859
Owner: Full Name: American Culinary Federation, Inc.
parte fundamental de nuestra convención son las competencias. La Owner: Complete Mailing Address: 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859
Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1
estructura de las competencias, y otros eventos de la programación, puede Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None
verse ligeramente diferente este año, ya que tomamos las precauciones Tax Status: The purpose, function, and nonprofit status of this organization and the exempt
status for federal income tax purposes: Has Not Changed During Preceding 12 Months
necesarias para garantizar la seguridad de todos nuestros chefs y asistentes. Publication Title: The National Culinary Review
Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: Jan 2019 to Nov 2020
Pero seguirán siendo tan emocionantes e instructivas como siempre. Extent and Nature of Circulation: Educational Culinary Publication for Members and Subscribers
En primer lugar, quiero agradecerles a ustedes, nuestra comunidad 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation
Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months
de ACF, por su apoyo inquebrantable. Su lealtad y compromiso con a. Total Number of Copies: 2,945
nuestra organización, así como la camaradería que comparten con sus b1. Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions: 2,580
b2. Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions: 16
colegas, es lo que nos mantiene avanzando, fortaleciéndonos y capaces b3. Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers,
Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS®: 0
de retribuir la generosidad que recibimos entre nosotros y a nuestras
b4. Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS: 0
comunidades en general. También quiero agradecer a todos aquellos c. Total Paid Distribution: 2,596
d1. Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies: 0
que asistieron a la primera reunión del Ayuntamiento del Presidente. d2. Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies: 0
Este año organizaremos cuatro reuniones más, con candidatos que d3. Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS: 0
d4. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail: 105
se postulan para la presidencia a nivel nacional, ¡así que no olviden e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: 105
sintonizarnos! Valoramos mucho sus comentarios, sugerencias e ideas. f. Total Distribution: 2701
g. Copies Not Distributed: 15
También me gustaría agradecer especialmente a todos nuestros h. Total: 2,716
socios y proveedores aliados que apoyan a ACF y a nuestros chefs i. Percent Paid: 96.1%
15. Extent and Nature of Circulation
durante todo el año. Sin ustedes no podríamos organizar un evento de No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date
tan alto nivel, y estamos muy agradecidos. a. Total Number of Copies: 2,514
b1. Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions: 2,350
Asimismo me complace informar que desde el comienzo del año, b2. Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions: 16
más delegaciones se han estado reuniendo entre sí y con sus propios b3. Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers,
Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS®: 0
miembros, tanto de forma segura presencialmente como en reuniones b4. Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS: 0
c. Total Paid Distribution: 2,366
virtuales participativas, esto último gracias al éxito de nuestro foro en d1. Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies: 0
línea, Chef 's Table. Nuestra nueva serie de seminarios web respalda d2. Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies: 0
d3. Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS: 0
estos esfuerzos para mantenerlos conectado, comprometidos e d4. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail: 110
informados. Y no olviden estar atentos a la programación continua a e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: 110
f. Total Distribution: 2,476
través de nuestro Centro de aprendizaje en línea. g. Copies Not Distributed: 15
Para terminar, quiero recordarles que en ACF estamos aquí para h. Total: 2,491
i. Percent Paid: 95.6%
ayudarlos. Nuestra membresía de prueba de 90 días para miembros 16. Electronic Copy Circulation
Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months
nuevos y nuestro plan de pago flexible han funcionado muy bien. Los
a. Paid Electronic Copies: 13,426
invitamos a aprovechar estas alternativas en caso de necesitarlas, y no b. Total Paid Print Copies + Paid Electronic Copies: 16,339
c. Total Print Distribution + Paid Electronic Copies: 16,443
dude en compartir esta información con posibles miembros de ACF. d. Percent Paid: 99.4%
También estamos trabajando en el desarrollo de otras oportunidades y 16. Electronic Copy Circulation
No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date
beneficios exclusivos para nuestros miembros. a. Paid Electronic Copies: 12,810
¡Feliz primavera y no puedo esperar a verlos a todos de nuevo! b. Total Paid Print Copies + Paid Electronic Copies: 15,406
c. Total Print Distribution + Paid Electronic Copies: 15,511
d. Percent Paid: 99.3%
I certify that 50% of all my distributed copies are paid above a nominal price.
I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that
anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or
information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and
imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties).
Thomas “Tom” Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC Alan Sterling, Director of Marketing and Communications
Presidente Nacional American Culinary Federation, Inc.
American Culinary Federation 18-Dec-20
WEARECHEFS.COM 5
| On the Line |
What’s Cooking on WeAreChefs.com
Visit WeAreChefs.com, the official content hub for the American Culinary Federation, to read online exclusive articles, including
industry trends, interviews, COVID-19 coverage, recipes and more.
Dissecting the Dish
In this ongoing series, we take a deep dive into the back stories and preparation methods of prized dishes from different chefs.
Recent stories feature a catfish and crab stew developed by Chef Kevin Mitchell, CEC, and inspired by the historic cuisine of the
Carolinas, as well as a goat cheese-crusted rack of lamb by Chef Eric Gillish, just in time for the spring.
Holiday Meal Planning
We’ve got some ideas to help you plan menus for Easter, Mother’s Day, Memorial Day and other upcoming holidays. Plus, catch up
on a tutorial by Pastry Chef Will Racin, CEPC, who shared techniques for making molded chocolate truffles with all-natural, add-on
flavors for Valentine’s Day.
Mini Chef Profiles
NCR’s ACF Chef Profile column regularly features member success stories, but there are so many more to share outside of the
magazine’s bi-monthly issues. Visit WeAreChefs.com to read
more about your fellow members and their work and careers.
Ongoing COVID-19 Coverage
Even though we’re so over this pandemic, our editorial team
will continue to bring you the most up-to-date guidance,
information and ideas to help you navigate this challenging
time, including how to manage indoor dining restrictions,
enhance safety measures and more.
The Culinary Insider, the ACF’s bi-weekly newsletter, offers
timely information about events, certification, member
discounts, the newest blog posts, competitions, contests and
much more. Sign up at acfchefs.org/tci.
Follow the ACF on
your favorite social
media platforms:
@acfchefs
@acfchefs
Twitter question of
@acf_chefs the month:
What is your favorite spring
@acfchefs vegetable to work with? Sure, digital is environmentally friendly...
American Tweet us your answer using the but paper smells better.
Culinary hashtag #ACFasks and we’ll retweet A digital subscription to NCR is included with ACF membership,
Federation our favorites. but members can now get a one-year print subscription for just
$25! Visit acfchefs.org/ncr to get yours today.
6 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021
| News Bites |
NEWS BITES and webinars, and in our online learning center.
Visit acfchefs.org/Events to apply to be a part of this exclusive
group and give back.
ACFEF Scholarships
Through support from the American Academy of Chefs, the
American Culinary Federation Education Foundation (ACFEF)
is pleased to offer a limited number of scholarships each year to
students. The next scholarship deadline is April 30.
Apply at acfchefs.org/Scholarships.
Register Now for the ACF
National Convention
We are so excited to welcome members back to the ACF 2021 National
Convention, held Aug. 2-5, 2021, at the Orlando World Center
Marriott in Orlando, Florida. Dates were moved forward by three
weeks to allow more time for the COVID-19 vaccine to be distributed
nationwide and travel restrictions to be lifted. Expect an exciting lineup
of presentations, cooking demos, competitions and more. Save the date
for the Board of Governors and American Academy of Chefs Dinner
on Aug. 1. Register at www.acfchefs.org/Events.
New Town Hall Meetings
Join us for Town Hall meetings with the ACF candidates for
National Office. The Town Hall will include statements from the
candidates, followed by a question-and-answer session. Look
for the registration link in the upcoming issues of The Culinary Chef & Child Initiative Grants
Insider. Dates and details include: Under the Chef & Child Initiative, ACFEF is offering ACF
• Thursday, March 4, 7:00 p.m. EST: All Vice Presidents chefs and chapters grant funding to support nutrition outreach
• Thursday, March 11, 7:00 p.m. EST: Secretary activities in their communities. Grant deadlines are March 1 and
Aug. 31. For more information and to apply,
• Thursday, March 18, 7:00 p.m. EST: Treasurer visit acfchefs.org/Partnerships.
• Thursday, March 25, 7:00 p.m. EST: President
ACF Branded Goods
Call for Presenters
Show your ACF pride! Visit our new online store to check out
Share your expertise! The ACF strives to enrich the culinary items such as shirts, caps, cutting boards, skillets and more, all
community through cutting-edge seminars and demonstrations with the ACF logo proudly displayed. Visit acfchefs.org for
that highlight the latest cooking trends and topics at ACF events more information and to shop.
WEARECHEFS.COM 7
| News Bites |
time, increase member participation and grow membership.
These tools include turnkey chapter websites, platforms for
event registration and e-commerce, email communication/
management tips, membership and board management
resources, and more. ACF Chicago, ACF Columbus (Ohio)
and ACF St. Louis are long-term users of the platform, and
others are considering the switch. StarChapter is offering a 20%
discount on its one-time set-up fee for chapters with more than
50 members. To learn more, visit starchapter.com.
ACF New Member Webinar
We’re committed to helping our new members get off to a
great start. Our newly launched New Member Orientation
Webinar helps members take full and immediate advantage of
the benefits available to them. The webinar can also be enjoyed
by existing members as a refresher. Stay tuned for day and time
details on the acfchefs.org homepage. Chef’s Table Chapter
Meeting Promotions
90-Day Introductory Offer ACF Chapters now can use Chef ’s Table to promote upcoming
for First-time ACF Members Chapter Meetings. Benefits of doing so include securing higher
attendance; connecting with other ACF members throughout
Individuals who have never been a member can now join ACF the region or country; and exposing potential sponsors and
for a complimentary 90-day membership to enjoy all of the vendors to a larger audience. Email chapter meeting details to
benefits of current members. When the 90-day period ends, new Joe Syrowik, jsyrowik@acfchefs.net, to post on the forum.
members are invited to continue their ACF membership using
the FlexPay option, which allows members to pay their yearly
membership over the course of the year. Visit acfchefs.org for a
link to the membership offer.
The ACF Chapter of Cincinnati — led by board
member Chef Nick Forrest, a lamb producer and a
Become a Mentor Today! former 4-H advisor — called upon fellow chapter
members to purchase hogs from FFA/4-H members
More than 150 members have enrolled in Mentor Match, ACF’s
showing at the Butler County (Ohio) Fair, after
new mentorship program.
pandemic shutdowns prevented the children from
Enroll now and gain access to the Mentor Match Directory, completing the quality assurance program required
where you can find the Mentee who is best suited for you. Your to sell the hogs. Chef Forrest and ACF chefs not only
experience in the culinary profession is invaluable, and getting purchased the hogs; they bought them at double the
involved is the perfect way to “pay it forward” in appreciation price per pound — and then partnered with a processor
for and recognition of those who have helped you along the who donated their processing fee to the 4H program.
way. Visit chefs-table.acfchefs.org/home to enroll, or call Joe The carcasses were given to local culinary schools and
Syrowik at (904) 484-0210. culinary arts programs, including Butler Tech, Scarlet
Oaks, Diamond Oaks and Live Oaks, where ACF
chefs and students broke down the meat and donated
ACF Partners with StarChapter more than 3,800 pounds of fresh pork to the FreeStore
Foodbanks and La Soupe, a food-rescue nonprofit.
ACF has collaborated with StarChapter to provide access to
a variety of resources intended to help chapter leaders save
8 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021
2021 American Academy of Chefs and
Honorary AAC Tentative Inductees
The American Academy of Chefs (AAC), otherwise known as ACF’s honor society, represents the highest
standards of professionalism in our organization and industry. The Academy’s primary mission is to promote the
education of all culinarians through mentorship, student scholarships and grants for professional chefs looking to
further their career. We are proud to present our 2021 tentative AAC and Honorary AAC candidates for induction.
If there is any reason why you would not agree with these lists, please contact Americo S. DiFronzo, CEC, CCA,
AAC, academy chair, difronzoa@aol.com or Karen Stamper, AAC administrator, kstamper@acfchefs.net.
Edward Adel, CEC 2021 Honorary American Academy of
ACF Greater Kansas City Chefs Association Chefs Tentative Inductees:
Sponsored by: Louis Perrotte, CEC, AAC, HOF and James
M. Tinkham, CEC, CCA, AAC Christopher Blanchard, CEC
Sponsored by: James V. DiMarzio, CEC, AAC
Martin A. Gilligan, CEC, CEPC
ACF Chefs de Cuisine Association of California Daniel J. Blanchard, CEC
Sponsored by: Eric D. Ernest, CEC, CCA, AAC and Eloise Sponsored by: Denise S. Graffeo, CEC, AAC, HOF
Fernandez, CEC, CCE, AAC
Bertrand O. DeBoutray
David A. Marcelli, CCE, CEC, PCC Sponsored by: Reimund D. Pitz, CEC, CCE, AAC, HOF
ACF Honolulu Chapter
Sponsored by: Stafford T. DeCambra, CEC, CCE, CCA, Thomas P. Ryan, CEC, CCA
AAC and Jacqueline Hamilton, CEC, AAC Sponsored by: Elizabeth A. Bergin, HAAC
Vanessa N. Marquis, CEC J. Scott Youngman, CEC
ACF Tampa Bay Culinary Association Sponsored by: John J. Hudak, CEC, AAC
Sponsored by: Steven Jilleba, CMC, CCE, AAC and
Thomas J. Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC
Michael J. Moench, CEC
ACF Sarasota Bay Chefs Association
Sponsored by: Michael S. Baldwin, CEC, AAC and Brian D.
Knecht, CEC, CCA, AAC
Jeffrey A. Quasha, CEC, CCA
ACF Chefs of the Low Country
Sponsored by: Christopher F. Donato, CEC, AAC and
Jeffrey Kraft, CEC, CCA, AAC
Michael R. Thrash, CEC, CCA
ACF Tampa Bay Culinary Association
Sponsored by: Stephen M. Afflixio, CEC, AAC and
Reimund D. Pitz, CEC, CCE, AAC, HOF
WEARECHEFS.COM 9
| Management |
MAKE YOUR
KITCHEN SMART
Back-of-house automation technologies maximize labor and throughput
while minimizing costs | By Jody Shee
Imagine a ghost kitchen hub of 16
independent operators, each with their
own menus, working from separate
kitchens under one roof. A family calls
in a single order for dishes from several
of the operations. Each outfit prepares
its dish, places it on a conveyor belt that
runs down the center of the facility, and
— despite the varying cook times — all
arrive at the end of the belt at the same
time, ready for bundling and delivery.
This would have been impossible a
few years ago, but it’s the reality for Crave
Hospitality Group’s Boise, Idaho-based
Crave Collective, largely because of its
smart backend management program.
And it sounds high-tech, but you don’t
have to be a “techie” to grasp the value
of advanced back-of-house equipment and software automation
technology: They can make operations faster and smarter.
Plus, many of these new systems offer improved accuracy and
consistency with an added layer of monitoring, adjustment and
general oversight.
KITCHEN UPGRADES
BOH automation options are endless. But if you could invest
in only one automation upgrade, Jay Bandy (pictured right)
— president of Goliath Consulting Group, Atlanta — suggests
purchasing a system that ties in food preparation projections
with labeling and food safety. “There are several systems out
there that incorporate these three components,” he says.
A good system indicates how much of any item to prep
based on expected volume and product mix. After the food
10 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021is prepped, the same system can print number and variations of items to cook
labels indicating who prepped it and at the same time, saving time while
when, as well as the expected shelf eliminating the need for other equipment.
life. Labeling automation ensures the One of Moeller’s clients, Super
label is legible and eliminates human Sandwich in Shelton, Connecticut,
miscalculations, enhancing food opened 10 years ago with fryers, a flat-top
safety. This type of platform sometimes grill, a two-burner stove, a charbroiler
includes Bluetooth cooler and freezer and a convection oven. Since it added
monitoring, reporting, and alerting, two combi ovens, the sandwich, soup
which also remove human error and and salad concept has eliminated the
boost food safety. convection oven, flat-top grill and
“QSRs have been using this charbroiler. Because of the oven’s
temperature flexibility, the combi oven
technology for some time; now
does everything — it can make grilled
it’s starting to become available to
chicken, hardboiled eggs and cookies as
independent operators,” Bandy says.
well as toast sandwiches and make soup
“That’s where tech has gone in 10 years
stocks. “And they are looking to add ribs
— from the big guys to the smaller guys.”
and pizza to the menu,” he says. The oven
For their flexibility as well as their
has allowed about a one-third reduction
monitoring and one-touch cooking
in kitchen labor, freeing up existing staff
capabilities, combi ovens are the BOH to handle other tasks.
automation upgrade Mark Moeller Bandy believes grill station
(above) suggests. He is owner of The automation will continue to grow in
Recipe of Success, a national food popularity. Case in point: QSR White
and restaurant consultancy based in Castle announced plans in a press release
Westport, Connecticut. With one type last fall to test Flippy, a grilling-and-
of combi, “you can put multiple items in frying robotic kitchen assistant from
the chamber at the same time, and when Miso Robotics.
you open and close the door, it adjusts the
cook time and temperature,” he says. Each AI AND MACHINE LEARNING
shelf operates with its own temperature Artificial intelligence (AI) will
and humidity controls, allowing any take fryer and grill automation a long
WEARECHEFS.COM 11| Management |
into account based on such variables
as daypart, order velocity or day of
the week, for example. The system
adjusts the expected cook time
accordingly. When a customer orders
items from various menus, the system
computes cook times for each item
and projects when the complete order
will be ready for delivery or pickup.
At the kitchen level, workers see
the order on the screen, but don’t
start the preparation until a green
button lights up. They push the button
as they begin the prep, then push the
“complete” button when the item is
done, thus allowing the machine to
keep track of actual cook times. The software metes out the start
way. For example, Bandy points out a
times for each ordered item from each restaurant operation
falafel-making machine may have output
based on cook times in concert with other ticket items ordered.
capacity for 300 pieces an hour, but if
The first Crave Collective opened in Boise in October 2020,
outfitted with AI capabilities, it can adjust
with 11 more planned to open this year. “All our expectations
output based on customer counts and
have exceeded our goals for attracting higher ticket averages and
orders coming in, and thus only make the
order frequency,” Wade says.
actual number needed.
Smart kitchen management software will be a pillar of the
AI and machine learning, another
automated kitchen of the future. “You want it to track as much
form of robotic processing, which allows
data as possible [to] compile sales data, track inventory, store
AI systems to continuously “learn”
recipes and schedule labor, for example,” says Chef Kevin
without being explicitly programmed,
Villanueva (above right), R&D chef for San Francisco-based
are largely behind the automation system
consultancy The Culinary Edge and the firm’s quick-serve
used at Crave Collective’s ghost kitchen
concept, Starbird Chicken. The software he works with
operation. Co-founder and CEO Devin
performs all of these tasks, and also helps track ingredient costs
Wade (above left) and his team developed
per dish. It also evaluates anomalies if the dishes fail to match
a proprietary software platform to run and
the expected cost, tracking down culprit issues, which may be
collate BOH operations for each of the 16
tied to inventory tracking, mix analysis and more.
concepts housed in separate kitchen suites
Chef Villanueva admits that much of the current restaurant
within the 15,000-square-foot facility.
automation is focused on front-of-house, “but for BOH,
Each kitchen runs off a kitchen
software is getting better and better,” he says, especially for
display system or screen that, for starters,
online training programs that help cooks learn faster and more
forecasts supply and volume needs based efficiently, without language barriers.
on orders, Wade says. While the system In the end, Crave Collective’s Wade says their BOH
is capable of outputting a whole set of automation isn’t designed to replace kitchen workers, but
analytics to help managers, what makes instead to make workers more efficient through space layout and
the platform unique during service is organization combined with software, in a way that hasn’t been
how the current work order flow ties in done before. Investing in these systems can not only reduce
with the other restaurant units. inefficiencies; it also can lower costs over the long term.
Cook times for each menu item for
each unit are input into the system. Jody Shee is a Kauai, Hawaii-based freelance writer and editor
with more than 20 years of food-writing experience. She blogs at
Likely time-fluctuation factors are taken sheefood.com.
12 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021IGNITE YOUR PASSION REGISTRATION IS NOW OPEN ACF National Convention Orlando World Center Mariott August 2-5, 2021 Board of Governors and AAC Dinner on August 1 Visit ACFChefs.org/events today
| Chapter Close-Up |
ACF PITTSBURGH CHAPTER
Members of this historical chapter led the creation of the ACF’s first-ever apprenticeship program and
ACF Culinary Team USA
The ACF Pittsburgh Chapter has a long and storied history foods. Four years later, Chef Laesecke managed the American
dating back to the 1940s and a robust list of alumni, including team that captured all of the competition's top honors. CAP
the former ACF national and Pittsburgh chapter presidents chefs went on to compete in multiple domestic and international
Chefs Paul Laesecke, AAC, and Ferdinand Metz, CMC, competitions in the late 1960s, earning top prizes each time. Also
among other ACF leaders. during this time, Chefs Spielbichler and Metz both earned the
The chapter’s story began in April 1944, when 12 Pittsburgh coveted ACF Chef of the Year title.
chefs — hoping to recruit young chefs and expand skilled staff Chef Metz — along with Chefs Jack Braun; L. Edwin
in the city’s professional kitchens — met at Chef Laesecke’s Brown, chairman of the American Culinary Federation
home to discuss ways to grow local interest in the culinary Educational Institute; Chef Jerry Lawrence, apprenticeship
arts. In addition to Chef Laesecke, the group included Chefs chairman; and Daniel Przybylek, dean of continuing
Abel Bomberault, Lucien Chene, Albert Gasnier, Albert education — formed a partnership with the Community
Guilloteau, Peter Massot, Dino Nardi, Edourd Panchard, College of Allegheny County and Dean James Evanko to
Otto Spielbichler, William Wagner, Joseph Winkelman and develop the first chef ’s apprenticeship program recognized
Gaston Zimmerman. On June 24, 1944, the group held its by the U.S. Department of Labor. It served as the model for
second meeting at the Schenley Hotel, with interim president subsequent programs throughout the country.
Chef Laesecke leading the event, which was attended by 40 This program took shape as a 6,000-hour, three-year,
people. By the next Chefs’ Association of Pittsburgh (CAP) on-the-job training program, augmented by 1,000 hours
meeting, held at the H.J. Heinz Company in July that year, there of classroom activity that could help students earn both an
were more than 100 professionals in attendance. Associate of Science in the Culinary Arts degree and Bureau
In 1947, the CAP officially joined the ACF, primarily to of Apprenticeship and Training journeyman’s papers. Chef
establish an apprentice training program. In 1949, the chapter Arthur (Art) Inzinga, CCE, CCE, AAC — an award-winning
introduced its first training classes at a public trade school ACF Chef; active board member; chairman and former
in a joint effort with the Western Pennsylvania Restaurant treasurer; chapter president; and frequent competition coach
Association. The CAP was also at the forefront of planning — was one of the first graduates. He was named Apprentice of
the ACF’s first national convention, held in 1950 in New York, the Year under the tutelage of former ACF President Richard
which helped reunite the ACF and its national affiliate chapters Bosnjak, CEC, AAC, executive chef at the Oakmont Country
for the first time since 1941. Club (Plum, Pennsylvania). Chef Inzinga recently returned
At that convention, Chef Laesecke was elected president of the to the Community College of Allegheny County as associate
ACF, and later helped to renew efforts to establish an honor society professor and culinary program coordinator and was named the
for chefs — an idea that had been debated for years. During the first-ever L. Edwin Brown Chef Educator of the Year in 2019.
1955 ACF National Convention, hosted in Pittsburgh, the ACF The nationally recognized apprenticeship program attracted
established the American Academy of Chefs, the membership of 218 applicants to its fall 1977 program and graduated many
which would eventually include many chapter members. accomplished chefs over the years. These include (among
Throughout the 1950s, Chef Laesecke participated in many others) Chef Frank Ruta, Pittsburgh apprenticeship graduate
culinary competitions, which led to the formation of the first of ‘78, who was the White House chef for the Carter, Reagan
American team to participate in the 1956 International Culinary and Bush, Sr. administrations; Chef Steve Fernald, another
Olympics in Frankfurt, Germany. CAP Chefs Laesecke and Pittsburgh apprenticeship graduate, who later became the ACF
Spielbichler were chosen to compete as part of the team of four. national apprenticeship director; and Chef Russell Scott,
Each team member came home with a gold medal, and the team CMC, CHE, who went on to serve as a team member for the
was presented with the highest award for preparation of hot ACF Culinary Team USA.
14 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021In the last 30 years, a Valentine’s Day pastry presentation by Culinary Olympian
the organization — now Chef Susan Notter, CEPC. Other educational meetings
called the ACF Pittsburgh Chapter (ACFPC) — has grown its included a virtual event with the Culinary Vegetable Institute
membership, at one point topping out at 800 members. While at the Chef ’s Garden in Huron, Ohio; a presentation from
chapter membership has waxed and waned over the years, the Chef Edward Leonard, CMC, executive chef of The Polo
chapter retains a respectable roster, including many newcomers, Club of Boca Raton (Florida), about maintaining a healthy
thanks to the apprenticeship program and strong relationships brigade system; and some tips from an executive search
with student-chefs and up-and-coming chefs. firm about how to prepare resumes, portfolios, and personal
ACFPC has also grown its list of National ACF Chefs of websites for executive positions and career growth.
the Year: Chefs Scott, Braun and Bosnjak, as well as Chefs Through the years, ACFPC has also remained dedicated to
Roland Schaeffer, Tim Ryan and Baron Galand, some of raising funds for scholarships and those in need. Last year, the
whom served as chapter president at one point, and all of whom chapter recruited personal funds to put toward the Ferdinand
have participated in the ACF National and Regional Culinary Metz/ACF Relief Fund for displaced hospitality workers in need.
Olympic teams as either team members or coaches. The chapter also partnered with a local food pantry last fall to
ACFPC Regional ACF Chefs of the Year have included Chefs donate meals to the community. When tornadoes ransacked
Keith Coughenour, CEC, AAC and William Racin, CEPC. Nashville, Tennessee, in 2019, ACFPC chefs raised funds for the
Chefs Byron Bardy and Scott are Certified Master Chefs. Many American Culinary Federation Education Foundation (ACFEF)
Pittsburgh chapter members have also served as ACF Culinary Disaster Relief Fund Assistance. Annual galas held in the spring
Team coaches and captains, including Chef Coughenour, during the last several years before the pandemic have raised
executive chef at the premier Duquesne Club in Pittsburgh. money for the William Foust Education Scholarship.
He was named captain of the 1992 and 1996 U.S. teams, which Looking forward, Chef Buskey says the chapter remains
collectively won three gold and three silver medals in Frankfurt committed to recruiting and training budding chefs. “For us, it’s
and Berlin, Germany. Chef Coughenour also served as coach for all about education and bringing up our young chefs,” he says.
Team USA until 2003 and was involved in selecting members of “They are the future of our organization, and our industry.”
the 2000 and 2004 U.S. Culinary Olympic teams. Chef Buskey also hopes, like many ACF Chefs, to be able
Prior to COVID-19, ACFPC hosted regular educational to send members to the ACF National Convention in Orlando,
and networking events with a focus on demonstrations and Florida, this summer. He also hopes to bring back the
professional development. “We have an ongoing focus on keeping chapter’s annual — and always-anticipated — picnic, which
everyone within their certification points,” says Chef Brian functions as both a social outlet and a recruiting element
Buskey, current chapter president, and a culinary educator with for potential new members. There were about 150 people in
the nonprofit Bidwell Training Center in Pittsburgh. attendance in 2019.
By partnering with other ACF chapters in Philadelphia “While many of our members are club and healthcare chefs
and Ohio via ACF’s Chef ’s Table forum, Chef Buskey was who still have work, so many culinarians in our industry are
able to continue meetings virtually last year on Zoom. “We hurting,” Chef Buskey says. “We have lost a lot of restaurants,
didn’t miss any meetings this way, and at one point, had 260 and, as an industry, we are trying to rebuild. We’re hoping,
members in a meeting,” he says. Most recently, the chapter as a chapter, to be part of those rebuilding efforts and put in
hosted a chocolate demonstration by Chef Racin, followed by whatever hands and hours we can to make that happen.”
WEARECHEFS.COM 15| Main Course |
Much Ado
About Meat
Lesser-known cuts bring deliciousness
to menus at a lower cost
By Amanda Baltazar
Meat has a reputation for being supplier: “That can lead you to what
expensive, but it doesn’t have to be you might be able to use, because you
that way. In fact, some chefs believe can find out what has high supply and
the more economical cuts are the best low demand.”
ones. They can be just as tasty and Here are some economical cuts of
tender, and some can be prepared meat for building budget-friendly yet
in advance, just like other, more beautiful dishes.
expensive cuts of meat. On top of
that, says Chef Keith Sarasin — BEEF OR PORK CHEEK
author of the upcoming “Meat: The AND JOWL
Ultimate Cookbook,” and founder of “Jowl is the most flavorful part of a
The Farmers Dinner in Milford, New pig by far, but it hasn’t caught on yet,”
Hampshire, which hosts dinners in says Chef Sarasin, who likes to braise
farm fields — using them helps the it. Both cheek and jowl, he says, are
farmer move less-popular product “packed with flavor, which [comes from
and honors the animal. He often asks the] muscle and fat. The muscles are
farmers which cuts they can’t sell, then long and thin [there], and when you take
plans meals around that. the time to braise, those muscles get
Chef Adam Moore, corporate chef tender and then shred.”
for True Aussie Beef & Lamb, advises He also likes to sous vide beef jowl
having quarterly catchups with your “to get a beautiful [result] that resembles
16 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021shredded beef.” He uses it in variations meat works well for pasta dishes, such
of carnitas, and likes making tacos with as a braised lamb neck and shoulder
braised pork cheek. ragú with pappardelle and shaved
In addition, Chef Sarasin likes to use parmesan, he says.
pork jowl to make guanciale. “It sounds Chef Sarasin likes to cook lamb
fancy, but it’s one of the easiest things to neck in advance, he says, because when
do,” he says. He cures the jowl in a 2% it cools, it reabsorbs the liquids it loses
brine with some fennel for a couple of during cooking. If he cooks lamb neck in
weeks, hangs it for two more, then finely advance, he sears it just before serving.
dices it and uses it like pancetta.
BEEF CHUCK
LAMB NECK Chef Moore likes to use chuck and
Lamb neck has many vertebrae and chuck eye roll. These come off the front
bones, but also lot of marrow, so it cooks
of the animal, where the ribeye begins,
beautifully, according to Chef Sarasin.
and have good marbling, which “provides
To cook it, he sautés mirepoix,
wonderful, beefy flavor,” he says. These
then deglazes the pan with red wine
cuts work well for braising or sous vide
and herbs. He adds the lamb neck and
cooking, he says, “which allows the
enough water to just cover it, and cooks
natural collagen and muscle structure
it low and slow for about three and a
to become very tender and absorb the
half hours. During this time, the meat’s
fibers tear and become tender, so this flavors of your braising liquid.”
He also likes chuck tender, calling it
Above from left: Seared filet; Pulled pork jowl, “an economical cut that resembles a luxury
one of the most flavorful parts of a pig, says Chef
Keith Sarasin. cut.” His favorite method is to sous vide it
WEARECHEFS.COM 17| Main Course |
for 48 to 72 hours and finish it on the grill.
He often serves this over a grain salad.
BEEF SIRLOIN CAP
OR COULOTTE
Beef sirloin cap, also referred to
as the “Coulotte,” is a great cut for diners get some fat and some meat. It’s
roasting, Chef Moore says. Because it’s nice this way on sandwiches, he adds.
a larger cut at 1.5 to 2 pounds, it roasts Chef Moore doesn’t marinate this cut,
in about 45 minutes, and, left whole, can “as the beef is already very juicy and tender
be nice for family-style presentations. on its own from wet aging. I also find
“There’s typically a decent fat cap, which marinades can really affect the natural
inherently bastes the cut while it cooks,” structure and texture of meat when used
he points out. improperly. Thus, I’d only recommend
He’ll also grill it, which is how marinades on poor-quality meat, not
it’s typically prepared in Brazilian necessarily ‘economical cuts.’” However,
steakhouses. The cooked meat is then cut he adds, rubs or post-cook sauces can add
into smaller medallions and seasoned visual appeal and flavor. “[Even] just a
simply with salt and pepper. Sometimes, quick hit of citrus is nice to cut through
Chef Moore slices it really thinly, so the fatty richness of steak,” he says.
Spread from left: Middle Eastern-spiced, slow- LAMB SHOULDER
roasted lamb ribs; Pub-style Irish stew with
American lamb; Comfort food with a twist: Lamb Lamb shoulder works well for
pot pie; Skewered spiced lamb kafta with chilled
couscous salad and toasted pita. Photo credits:
braising and stewing because it often
American Lamb Board. contains the bone, and the lean-to-
18 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021fat ratio is about 75/25, says Chef
Mark DeNittis, president of DeNCO
Enterprises Special Operations Group
and culinary education consultant for the
American Lamb Board.
Also, it has a lot of collagen, which
gelatinizes during cooking, then
reabsorbs the liquids and flavors when
it’s reheated, “so these dishes are always
better the next day,” he says. The collagen
also gives the stew a lovely “textural
mouthfeel,” he adds.
Typically, he simply scores the top
fat layer of the shoulder, seasons the
shoulder, and roasts it at 450 to 500
degrees F for 20 minutes. He finishes
it at a lower temperature for a couple of
hours, then finishes it again with high
heat to crisp the softened outer layers
of meat. The fat, having been rendered
away, “leaves an extraordinary crispy and
flavorful dining experience.”
BEEF SHOULDER CLOD
Chef Brian Polcyn, CEC, professor
of charcuterie at Schoolcraft College in
Michigan and author of “Charcuterie: The
Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing,”
is a fan of the economical shoulder clod
sub primal of beef, which includes the
shoulder center, the teres major, and the
top blade (and within this, the flatiron
steak). “This cut is tasty because of the
intra-muscular fat — the marbling — and
it’s a little-known fact that it is the second-
most tender cut on the animal, after the
tenderloin,” he says.
And preparing it is easy, Chef Polycn
says — cook it like any steak: grill, roast
or pan fry. Serve it with caramelized
onions and mushrooms and a red wine
demi-glace. But it’s also extremely
versatile, he adds, and can be stir-fried
or pan roasted, and it takes marinades
exceptionally well. For recipes using
these cuts, visit WeAreChefs.com.
Amanda Baltazar is a freelance writer in the
Pacific Northwest who writes about food,
beverages, meat, and plant-based diets.
WEARECHEFS.COM 19| On the Side |
GOING WILD
An ACF Indigenous chef discusses
ways to use game meats
Chef Victoria Wells is a Native
American chef based in Manistee,
Michigan, and an ACF member who
is planning to launch her own catering
business. She’s a big fan of venison,
she says; it’s a lot cheaper than beef,
and has less saturated fat. The parts
that tend to get ignored are the rump
roast and sirloin, because they can be
tough, she says, but she grinds them up
and uses them for anything that would
traditionally feature ground beef.
She also likes to inject the meat
with maple and molasses, which
tenderizes it and minimizes the
"gamey” taste, especially if she smokes
it. For smoking wood, her preference
is cherry or maple, but oak also works
well — pretty much anything that
comes from the area the animal lived
in, she says. She smokes the meat for six
to eight hours.
20 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021| On the Side |
Chef Wells also likes to grill venison,
especially the neck and rump. She preps
it overnight, marinating the outside and
injecting the meat with marinade, too.
“This leaves it flavorful on the inside
with a slight crust on the outside that
cuts back the gamey flavor,” she says.
She likes a marinade with plenty of
acidity to break down the flavor and the
toughness, and grills only to medium to
prevent the meat from becoming tough.
Chef Wells thinly slices grilled
venison and serves it with a wild rice-
and-berry dish, or with mashed sweet Opposite: Chef Victoria Wells likes to inject venison with maple and molasses to tenderize it and
or red potatoes. “The trick to venison is reduce its gamey flavor; Above, from top to bottom: Venison is prized for its lower costs and fat
content compared with beef; Venison works well for grilling, especially the neck and rump parts.
serving it with both a sweet and savory
side. This allows the true flavor of the
meat to shine,” she says. She makes wild-
game tacos with any leftovers of the thin-
sliced venison. -Amanda Baltazar
WEARECHEFS.COM 21| Pastry |
BOUNTIFUL BISCUITS
With its countless variations, the biscuit offers many
dayparting possibilities // By Robert Wemischner
Whether mass produced for chain Family, a bakery café in Los Angeles,
restaurants or lovingly made by hand says, “I am not a traditionalist when it
at a diner or bakery-café, biscuits are a comes to biscuit making.” She’s a whole-
perennial favorite at breakfast, lunch grain enthusiast, so using self-rising
or dinner. And while they feature flour is anathema to her. “As a refined
ingredients from just five categories and manufactured product, self-rising
— salt, flour, leavening, fat and dairy — flour has been stripped of all fiber and
variations in those ingredient categories nutritional value,” she says. “It has been
vary widely from region to region. rendered flavor neutral — [it’s] a perfect
Consider, for example, cathead canvas for butter, lard, or buttermilk, [but
biscuits, which are growing in popularity, it] contributes no flavor itself.”
according to a recent report from market Diverging from the traditional
research firm Datassential. Named American style of biscuits, which calls
because of their large size (“as big as a for soft flours, Jullapat sneaks about 10%
cat’s head”) and common in many parts fine white cornmeal into the mix. “To me,
of the South — particularly in Louisiana using a bit of fine corn flour adds character
and Arkansas — die-hard fans of these and texture to the biscuit, making them
biscuits swear by White Lily-brand wholesome without compromising their
flour (a low-protein flour). And instead quintessential lightness,” she says. “Also,
of being rolled and cut, handfuls of the I’m committed to using butter as my fat
dough are simply dropped into a cast iron of choice, but the buttermilk is also key.
skillet and then popped into the oven. Our biscuits are topped with shredded
In other parts of the country — white cheddar and fresh thyme and served
where specific strains of wheat and other on their own, and are almost a meal
grains are locally available and milled themselves, without a need to turn them
nearby — bakers are going hyperlocal into sandwiches. Whole-grain biscuits
by using those flours, leading to heartier may feel a degree denser than white-flour
and healthier results. Devoted to counterparts, but they’re packed with
using heritage grains where possible, flavor, texture and nutrition.”
baker Roxana Jullapat, author of Beyond such savory applications,
“Mother Grains: Recipes for the Grain the simple addition of sugar transforms
Revolution,” and owner of Friends and biscuits into a vehicle for a host of
22 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021desserts featuring seasonal fruit. Year Governor’s Mansion, she chose a blend
round, biscuits can be a homespun of lard and butter for her biscuits. ”I liked
and relatively easy-to-execute entry on to draw on local products, including
dessert menus everywhere; think berry Virginia ham, butter
"
shortcake enhanced with sweetened and honey, to serve
crème fraîche whipped cream in spring, with cheddar biscuits,” BISCUITS ARE
or topped with stone fruit in the summer. she says. “Biscuits are
versatile vessels that can
VERSATILE VESSELS
Fat and Dairy feature many amazing THAT CAN FEATURE
Fat, the all-important component flavors, whether in the
of the recipe, can be anything from biscuit itself or as its MANY AMAZING
lard to shortening or butter, or even a
combination. The dairy used in biscuit
accompaniments. At
the Mansion, we made a
FLAVORS, WHETHER
making varies widely, too; bakers can sundried tomato biscuit, IN THE BISCUIT
choose from milk, buttermilk or heavy which straddled breakfast
ITSELF OR AS ITS
"
cream, as well as sour cream, yogurt, and lunch.”
crème fraîche, or a combination of any
of these to achieve richness, a pleasingly
She also likes to play
with different types
ACCOMPANIMENTS.
tart edge or a tenderness of crumb. of dairy in her biscuit - PASTRY CHEF STEPHANIE CHARNS
When ACF member and pastry Chef recipes, including “goat cheese,
Stephanie Charns (now R&D Chef which lends a tang to the final product.”
for Bimbo Bakers USA, a multinational Savory add-ins like these abound when
baking and snacks company) was it comes to biscuits. “Biscuits don’t have
executive pastry chef at the Virginia to be sweet; they can incorporate sweet,
WEARECHEFS.COM 23| Pastry |
sour and salty in one delicious morsel,” breakfast tables in many parts of the U.S.
says Chef Charns, who notes one of the and around the world. Oftentimes, they
most popular versions on her former are served as a simple accompaniment to
restaurant’s menu paired the flavor bacon and eggs, with just a pat of butter
profile of a cinnamon roll (cinnamon and a touch of honey. In other cases,
and sugar) with sundried tomato spread they are smothered in a gravy made from
for a sweet and salty accompaniment to bacon drippings, flour and milk.
poached eggs and ham. And then there are the endless
applications of the biscuit as a
Biscuit-Making sandwich base. From egg-and-meat
Methods (sausage, bacon or ham) breakfast
The right way to make a biscuit is sandwiches, to pulled pork and fried
also a matter of opinion. Some swear by chicken sandwiches, these portable
meals have been a popular menu item
chilling the fat and cutting it into the dry
nationally in the fast-food business for
ingredients. Others grate the butter and
years. Now, independent restaurants
then freeze it, lightly mixing it into the
are jumping on the bandwagon. While
dry ingredients to ensure a flaky product.
the popularity of biscuit sandwiches
And then there’s the question of whether
peaked in 2016 and waned slightly
the butter should be reduced to pea-sized
after that, Datassential research shows
bits or left as larger flakes.
they have maintained steady growth
Once the dough is gently put
in menu proliferation: about 1% each
together, some wonder: Should it be
year, for a total of just under a 6%
folded upon itself at least three times to
increase over the last four years. In
build layers and strengthen the gluten,
foodservice operations where staff is
so the biscuit holds its shape? Some
limited and baking prowess might be in
bakers go a different route altogether and
short supply, offering a personalized,
flatten the dough into a rectangle, then homemade biscuit item on the menu
roll it up, jelly roll-style, to create a spiral can become a draw for an operation
layering that offers enhanced texture and that prides itself on homestyle foods.
Instagram-worthy visual aesthetics in the Whether you’re serving them to-go
finished product. Biscuit dough can also or for dine-in at your place of operation,
be shaped into dumplings and plopped biscuits offer not just a comforting option
into chicken broth as just one of many for diners, thanks to their flaky, buttery,
non-baked, savory applications. melt-in-your mouth appeal; as a timeless
Emily Elyse Miller, author of staple ripe for reinvention, they also offer
“Breakfast: The Cookbook,” includes a blank canvas for creativity, no matter
in her book two basic but iconic the time of day.
biscuit-preparation methods. One uses
Robert Wemischner is a longtime
buttermilk, and is mixed like a pie dough instructor of professional baking at Los
and cut using a round cookie cutter. Angeles Trade-Technical College and
the author of four books, including “The
The other relies on full-fat milk and is Dessert Architect.”
soft enough to drop onto a sheet pan,
leading to a craggy exterior — perfect for
cradling lots of butter and honey.
Between the Biscuit
Biscuits symbolize comfort and
tradition and appear in some form at
24 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021You can also read
